On Friday, October 21, 2016 at 6:26:44 PM UTC+10:30, Shanvi Shanu wrote: > Through our directory users can find top creches which are offering quality services in Nigeria and provides contact address on the website.
What's the point ? First of all, some people for whatever reason, simply do not like the picture on an LCD. I read somewhere that some people's eyes have some response up into the near UV, maybe some of that is leaking through and making the picture look bad to them. And a plasma, even though you are actually seeing a phosphor, since it works on an arc could also leak UV. I know there are UV filters but nothing is perfect.
Another major thing is they finally figured out how to work it. This is why I could charge as much as a new VCR cost to fix the old one - they were finally used to the menus and knew how to set the timer and all that. Don't get me wrong, I am not against learning new things, but how to work a TV set or VCR ? No, and I resent being forced to.
This is out and out war between servicers and manufacturers. Each unit is a battle. When we lose the battle our landfills get another piece of junk in them and they get some more of our money. When we win we get the money and the landfills stay how they are.
Some did have a second anode wire that pulled out of the fly but later ones didn't. And even if it did, I had a couple that arced after they were reassembled, so the best plan is to remove it at the distribution block.
If you're lucky, you might just have that bad solder on the cap. The problem with that retrace cap is that if the customer continually tries to start the TV after that cap breaks loose, it will keep overvolting and running into the shutdown circuit. Even with the shutdown circuit, the voltage still overshoots and will eventually take out a CRT or yoke unless it shorts the HV output first shutting it down for good.
Most of the time, if the cap has bad solder, it will be burned a bit at the end. My experience is that most of these caps are still good anyway and resoldering them (and fixing the burned pc around it) is sufficient as long as the HV trans, crt(s), and yokes were not affected.
firstname.lastname@example.org: Oct 18 01:52PM -0700
If it is an ITC222 there is a fusible right near the flyback that provides voltage to the vertical IC, that can also cause shutdown. Actually I have found times when it was just the connection thereto. In fact sometime is a connection from the flyback. There is also another connection or resistor off the flyback that when bad will prevent the convergence subsystem from initializing.
email@example.com: Oct 18 07:16PM -0700
> If it is an ITC222 there is a fusible right near the flyback that provides voltage to the vertical IC, that can also cause shutdown. Actually I have found times when it was just the connection thereto. In fact sometime is a connection from the flyback. There is also another connection or resistor off the flyback that when bad will prevent the convergence subsystem from initializing.
Yep, remember those little red brick fuses well. And if nothing is amiss connection-wise, run a heat gun over the sweep board and see if it starts. There are a few electros that get lazy and I had a couple of those white opto couplers get thermally sensitive. Wow, talk about dredging up buried memories!
Bruce Esquibel <firstname.lastname@example.org>: Oct 19 01:30PM
> Why do you think it's an LCD PTV? I used to work on tons of RCAs and am > pretty sure it's a CRT based ITC series chassis.
Yeah, sorry about that, my google finger must of been bent to the left and didn't see the correct results. I thought the number was familar starting with the HD52 but you are right, it's one of the rptv series.
I do have to agree with someone else about what is the point, there probably are some listed on Craigs or Freeshopper that can be had for no money.
A couple years ago as a spare, I had a Sony 55" rptv, 16:9 picture but no atsc tuner, worked fine otherwise and after 3 weeks of trying to unload it for free, ended up using a sawsall on it to fit it in the garbage.
guijarrosoy <email@example.com>: Oct 18 10:11AM -0700
El jueves, 13 de octubre de 2016, 14:06:30 (UTC-3), guijarrosoy escribió: > Hi, I am trying to take this apart, removed 9 screws ... Not sure how to open without denting the plastic.. Does anyone has a service manual?