Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 25 updates in 6 topics

oldschool@tubes.com: May 27 12:55PM -0400

Although I used someone's frequency counter back around the 1970s, I
never owned one. From what I recall, back then, there was a BNC
connector on the unit, where test leads connected and were used to
determine the frequency within a radio stage, or used to check the
output from a signal generator.
 
I'm looking on Ebay and seeing some costly ones selling for $100 and up,
which have lots of buttons and connectors. -OR- seeing some that are
listed to go from 1 CPS to 70 or 80 MHZ, which tells me that they can
show audio frequencies, and up to the 70 or 80 MHZ limit, which means
they will work for AM radio, many Ham bands, CB radio, but *NOT* FM
radio.
 
Then what caught my eye were these inexpensive handheld ones, such as:
http://tinyurl.com/y84hun67
 
However, these do NOT have BNC connectors. Just an antenna. (No test
lead connector), So, obviously, they can not read audio freqs, and can
not be used to check the stage in a radio, but should probably pickup
the output from a signal generator if the sig gen test leads are held
near the antenna.
 
However, this device (above URL) only covers 50 MHZ to 2.4 GHZ. That
means it's worthless for AM radio, CB radio, and many lower Ham bands.
(In my case, this would be pretty useless, since I mostly work on radios
that are AM FM CB or SWR.
 
Ideally, something that covered 1CPS to 110 MHZ would be best suited for
my needs, but I cant find anything like that, at least not in the price
range of $50 or less. (which is what I am willing to pay for something I
wont get real much use from).
 
My antique Eico 320 Signal Gen only goes a little over 100 MHZ, so once
again, the example URL I posted would not be real helpful.
 
So, I am pretty confused. What's better, an antenna or test leads?
 
Do they actually make and sell LOW PRICED Freq Counters that go from 1
CPS to 110 MHZ or so?
 
Then again, it almost appears that to get full coverage of all
Frequencies, a person needs to buy TWO Freq counters, since UHF TV
covers the 470 to 806 MHZ. But once again, what good is a Freq Counter
with no test leads (just an antenna) for use on television?
Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: May 27 11:35AM -0700

On Sat, 27 May 2017 12:55:02 -0400, oldschool@tubes.com wrote:
 
Look for something that has a built in prescaler. Something like
this:
<http://www.ebay.com/itm/Blue-RF-Signal-Frequency-Counter-Cymometer-Tester-0-1-60MHz-20MHz-2400MHZ/172396798620>
The basic counter goes from 100KHz to 60MHz. The other ranges use a
prescaler to divide down the input frequency so that it ends up at
less than 60MHz and can be counted.
 
Or, maybe one of these variations:
<http://www.ebay.com/itm/Digital-6LED-1MHz-1000MHz-1GHz-RF-Signal-Frequency-Counter-Cymometer-Tester-G-/222009256193>
<http://www.ebay.com/itm/1MHz-1200MHz-RF-Frequency-Counter-Tester-Digital-LED-METER-Cymometer-f-Ham-Radio-/331915125484>
<http://www.ebay.com/itm/2016-0-91-OLED-RF-1Hz-2-4GHz-Frequency-Counter-Meter-Cymometer-Tester-/172692754650>
 
You can also use a mixer to take a higher frequency signal, and mix it
down to something lower that the counter can handle. I have some HP
microwave counters that work like that.
 
--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
mike <ham789@netzero.net>: May 27 11:52AM -0700

> Frequencies, a person needs to buy TWO Freq counters, since UHF TV
> covers the 470 to 806 MHZ. But once again, what good is a Freq Counter
> with no test leads (just an antenna) for use on television?
 
What good is a frequency counter WITH test leads for television.
Where are you gonna connect those leads and what's the signal level
there? And how do you measure channel 40 when channel 42 is 10x stronger.
 
You suffer from test equipment buyer's exaggeration.
"I dunno what I want so gimme EVERYTHING, and then some, for cheap."
 
Take a step back and decide what you need to measure that you didn't
need for the last 50 years.
 
I designed frequency counters for a living back in the day. I have more
than a few. I haven't turned one on in more than a decade, and here's
why...
 
FOR CHEAP COUNTERS:
They're inaccurate.
If you're setting a radio frequency, you want an ACCURATE counter.
Most other times, the accuracy is irrelevant. It's go/nogo.
The accuracy and stability of the timebase may be the most important
parameter.
What do you want to do?
 
They're insensitive.
You typically can't go probing around in equipment and learn anything.
A counter typically reads the biggest signal it hears.
You might find that everything reads 120Hz.
Probing around in a radio circuit may detune it.
What do you want to do?
 
I find an oscilloscope to be a more useful tool. You can read the frequency
right off the screen with sufficient precision for most troubleshooting
tasks.
And you can do it in the presence of noise that might render a counter
useless.
 
Expensive counters have a few bucks worth of counting stuff.
The majority of the expense is in the timebase and the front end
that helps you trigger on what you want to observe. All those
knobs are there for a reason.
 
If you need more accuracy, you probably need a LOT more accuracy.
 
Draw a frequency chart from 0 to 2.4 GHz. Put an arrow at every frequency
where you ever needed to measure a frequency and the specs of
the counter you'd have needed to do it.
Let that be your guide. You might decide that you still don't need
a counter that you can afford. ;-)
 
You can do audio with a cellphone app. Just be careful what you plug
into that microphone jack.
 
This seems to be closer to what you want.
EBAY ID 401196543325
If it has a removable antenna with signal and ground connections, you
can make test leads. Just be careful with DC or too much signal
breaking it.
Clifford Heath <no.spam@please.net>: May 28 08:09AM +1000

On 28/05/17 04:35, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
> The basic counter goes from 100KHz to 60MHz. The other ranges use a
> prescaler to divide down the input frequency so that it ends up at
> less than 60MHz and can be counted.
 
I have two of those. I bought the second because I thought I'd
broken the first, it performed so badly. They're as bad as each
other.
 
If you have a strong and stable signal, it can work ok, but
the input design is poor. The HF and the pre-scaler both
have dual-gate mosfets, but there's no gain control (automatic
or otherwise) and the inputs are paralleled. I've disconnected
the two inputs by cutting a track and soldered on a little bit
of RG-158 to an SMA connector for the high range.
 
I'd love it if Mike is willing to share some of his counter
front-end wisdom.
Michael Black <et472@ncf.ca>: May 27 07:24PM -0400

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: May 27 06:25PM -0700

mike wrote:
 
> why...
 
> FOR CHEAP COUNTERS:
> They're inaccurate.
 
** Anything using a crystal time base will have good accuracy.
 
 
> What do you want to do?
 
> They're insensitive.
> You typically can't go probing around in equipment and learn anything.
 
** Yep, RF circuits are very load sensitive and you will need a FET probe to buffer the signal.
 
But any counter will read the carrier frequency of a transmitter, long as it has a few milliwatts of output.
 
Radio mics operating in the VHF and UHF bands can be read by placing them close to a short antenna attached to the BNC input.
 
Analogue mobile phones (remember them) would read from 5 yards away.
 
 
 
..... Phil
rickman <gnuarm@gmail.com>: May 27 09:41PM -0400

Michael Black wrote on 5/27/2017 7:24 PM:
> seems out of fashion now, so the prescalers are meant for other things, and
> offer a binary division, so bypassing it in the counter (and maybe adding an
> input stage) means the clock for the counter is "wrong".
 
I don't think the prescaler is the problem is it? The problem is the
inappropriate front end. If you design a decent front end and feed the
prescaler with that signal it should work at lower frequencies ok. It may
not have timing controls to let you measure below some 10s of Hz or so, but
is that really a problem? Or do the prescalers work in some way I'm not
familiar with so they just don't operate at lower frequencies?
 
--
 
Rick C
mike <ham789@netzero.net>: May 27 07:20PM -0700

On 5/27/2017 6:25 PM, Phil Allison wrote:
 
 
> ** Anything using a crystal time base will have good accuracy.
 
> ..... Phil
 
I don't expect anything I could say would change your mind.
We'll just have to disagree on that.
Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: May 27 07:58PM -0700

mike wrote:
 
---------------
 
 
> > ** Anything using a crystal time base will have good accuracy.
 
> I don't expect anything I could say would change your mind.
 
** Why I change my mind when what I posted is correct ??
 
 
> We'll just have to disagree on that.
 
 
** You must enjoy being wrong.
 
You have nothing that explains your strange opinion ?
 
 
 
 
.... Phil
Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: May 27 09:25PM -0700

On Sun, 28 May 2017 08:09:04 +1000, Clifford Heath
 
>I have two of those. I bought the second because I thought I'd
>broken the first, it performed so badly. They're as bad as each
>other.
 
Thanks. I was thinking of buying some of those. I should have known
as much of the low cost "modules" that I've purchased seem to have
deficiencies as a result of crude design or cost cutting exercises.
 
To clarify my my comments a little, I was not recommending the
purchase of any of the devices I pointed to on eBay. I meant them as
examples of devices that have prescalers, which was part of the OP's
rant on requiring multiple counters to cover the frequency range. My
comment "Something like this:" usually preceeds something that I
haven't worked with.
 
>or otherwise) and the inputs are paralleled. I've disconnected
>the two inputs by cutting a track and soldered on a little bit
>of RG-158 to an SMA connector for the high range.
 
I picked that particular example because it has a drawing of the PCB
showing i/o and controls:
<http://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/hBYAAOSwAPVZGlOn/s-l1600.jpg>
It has two adjustments labelled "High channel sensitivity adjust"
which I guess would help with the tiggering. Do these controls work,
or were they deleted in yet another cost cutting exercise?
 
>I'd love it if Mike is willing to share some of his counter
>front-end wisdom.
 
The OP has not disclosed how he plans to use the counter. If it's a
bench instrument, that requires precision, I suggest any of the
numerous used HP counters available on eBay.
<https://www.google.com/search?tbm=isch&q=hp+universal+counter>
Especially the HP 5300 series:
<https://www.google.com/search?q=hp+5300+counter&tbm=isch>
I have accumulated a fair collection of these and find that used
counters are a far better deal than the eBay instruments, such as:
<http://www.ebay.com/itm/Victor-VC3165-Radio-Frequency-Counter-RF-Meter-0-01Hz-2-4GHz-K8M3/122448388056>
 
Incidentally, since the OP is into tubes, my favorite counter is an HP
5248M with genuine Nixie tubes. Middle right above the spectrum
analyzer:
<http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/pics/home/slides/lab.html>
The pile of 4 plugins under the Glad bag box are the various mixer
type downconverters I previously mentioned. I also have an HP 5245L:
<https://www.eevblog.com/forum/repair/repair-of-hp-5245l-nixie-frequency-counter/?action=dlattach;attach=204375;image>
Cheap but scarce on eBay:
<http://www.ebay.com/itm/HP-Hewlett-Packard-5248L-Electronic-Counter-5254C-Frequency-Converter-15-3-0GHz-/182520538437>
 
 
 
--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
Clifford Heath <no.spam@please.net>: May 28 04:13PM +1000

On 28/05/17 14:25, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
> Thanks. I was thinking of buying some of those. I should have known
> as much of the low cost "modules" that I've purchased seem to have
> deficiencies as a result of crude design or cost cutting exercises.
 
It was developed by a good hobbyist who posted everything online.
 
I think that full schematics of slightly earlier versions are
available online. He uses a dual-gate MOSFET before the prescaler
and before the main counter, with the inputs paralleled. I think
that affects the sensitivity (though I don't have measurements)
so for my 2nd module, I cut a track to separate the input paths.
I might wind up adding an independent input amplifier with AGC,
or even a pot to adjust the 2nd gate bias on the MOSFETs for a
manual gain control. A little difficult though, as parts of the
circuit are underneath the LED displays, so I'd need to remove
those.
 
The main counter is a PIC.
oldschool@tubes.com: May 27 08:10PM -0400

Of all the stupid things . . . .
While looking at some online manuals, I downloaded a .PDF manual that's
upside down.....
 
What the hell am I supposed to do, stand on my head to read it?
 
I have the software to flip graphics, but I dont have the slightest clue
how to flip a PDF file.
 
Dont people check this stuff before they post it?
 
(No, I dont have a printer. I read everything on screen, so I have never
seen the need to waste paper or own a printer).
 
I guess I'll have to take this one to a print shop if I want to read it.
Jon Elson <elson@pico-systems.com>: May 27 08:22PM -0500


> (No, I dont have a printer. I read everything on screen, so I have never
> seen the need to waste paper or own a printer).
 
> I guess I'll have to take this one to a print shop if I want to read it.
I guess you can turn your monitor upside down!
 
Jon
thekmanrocks@gmail.com: May 27 06:27PM -0700

Not to spoon feed ya, but most
recent versions of Adobe Acrobat
reader should have a rotate
function. Ctrl+R, and equivalent
command on Macs.
rickman <gnuarm@gmail.com>: May 27 09:37PM -0400

> reader should have a rotate
> function. Ctrl+R, and equivalent
> command on Macs.
 
There is a reason why he likes tube equipment.
 
I had my oscilloscope open once to fix a problem and on a whim I decided to
swap the connections for the horizontal sweep. Don't know why, I just did.
Now I'm very used to it. If I were to want to share any photographs of
traces I would have to reverse the image for anyone else to look at... not
that it would be likely this is needed.
 
--
 
Rick C
analogdial <analogdial@mail.com>: May 28 03:43AM

> While looking at some online manuals, I downloaded a .PDF manual that's
> upside down.....
 
> What the hell am I supposed to do, stand on my head to read it?
 
Yes, that would work. The suggestion to turn your monitor upside down
is also good. If you have a mirror or two, you could flip the image
with them. Failing that, you could have your eyeballs surgically
inverted.
 
 
> I have the software to flip graphics, but I dont have the slightest clue
> how to flip a PDF file.
 
It's almost impossible on my PDF viewer. I can either drop a menu by
clicking on some stupid icon which might look something like a dog eared
piece of paper and then clicking on the words "rotate right" or "rotate
left". Why did they make it so obscure and why did they give me too
many choices? Probably programmed by damn kids who have no respect for
their elders, that's why.
 
Then, to add to the confusion, I can rotate images without the menu by
pressing on the Ctrl key and the right arrow key OR pressing on the Ctrl
key and the LEFT arrow key. Whew!!
 
 
> Dont people check this stuff before they post it?
 
What else would you expect with today's failing education system and the
"everyone gets a trophy" attitude? They're just raising kids to be
selfish and idiotic.
 
 
> (No, I dont have a printer. I read everything on screen, so I have never
> seen the need to waste paper or own a printer).
 
> I guess I'll have to take this one to a print shop if I want to read it.
 
That works, too.
Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: May 27 09:36PM -0700

>While looking at some online manuals, I downloaded a .PDF manual that's
>upside down.....
>What the hell am I supposed to do, stand on my head to read it?
 
Most PDF viewers will rotate pages. Older versions of Adobe Acrobat
Viewer will not. I use PDF-Xchange viewer and editor programs instead
of Acrobat:
<https://www.tracker-software.com/product/pdf-xchange-viewer>
How to rotate pages:
<http://help.tracker-software.com/pdfxe6/index.html?rotate-pages_ed.html>
 
You can also rotate documents online:
<https://www.pdfrotate.com>
Click on "Rotate Single Page Instead" and then "More" as needed.
 
--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: May 27 09:48PM -0700

On Sat, 27 May 2017 21:36:37 -0700, Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>
wrote:
 
><https://www.tracker-software.com/product/pdf-xchange-viewer>
>How to rotate pages:
><http://help.tracker-software.com/pdfxe6/index.html?rotate-pages_ed.html>
 
Oops. You want Editor, not Viewer:
<https://www.tracker-software.com/product/pdf-xchange-editor>
Despite the pricing, the trial version of Editor will continue to work
after the trial period is over and retains a limited but useful subset
of the editing features (including page rotation).
 
--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
rickman <gnuarm@gmail.com>: May 28 01:16AM -0400

analogdial wrote on 5/27/2017 11:43 PM:
>> seen the need to waste paper or own a printer).
 
>> I guess I'll have to take this one to a print shop if I want to read it.
 
> That works, too.
 
I didn't think of that. But you'll have to get the person at the print shop
to make sure the copies are made upside down or it will just be the same
problem.
 
--
 
Rick C
rickman <gnuarm@gmail.com>: May 28 01:21AM -0400

Jeff Liebermann wrote on 5/28/2017 12:36 AM:
 
> You can also rotate documents online:
> <https://www.pdfrotate.com>
> Click on "Rotate Single Page Instead" and then "More" as needed.
 
I recall many years ago, before we all had computers on our desks, we had a
small room with a couple of computers for everyone to share. One of the
secretaries was learning to use a small Mac, the one they drew in cartoons.
She knew nothing of how a mouse worked and was just learning to use the
machine. She asked someone what to do when the mouse hit the side of the
computer and the cursor wasn't where you wanted it.
 
The guy telling the story was laughing at her. I felt bad for her. She was
a very nice person, but didn't understand the world of engineers much less
engineering. That wasn't her fault. Engineers can be very stupid when
dealing with people.
 
--
 
Rick C
thekmanrocks@gmail.com: May 27 03:38PM -0700

ohg.. wrote: "But go to any store that has a hundred TVs running. The one cranked to stupidity is the one most people will think has
the best picture. Kind of like the old "sizzle and boom" EQ settings people like to adjust their stereos for. "
 
LOL!
 
I wonder if this is the case in stores in
countries outside the U.S. I know it
was in one electronic emporium in
the Philippines. I eyeballed a 4K OLED
to sane levels as you did, but within
5 minutes of turning my back the sales
staff had the set back in torch mode!
 
No WONDER consumers have no
concept of accuracy when it comes
to a TV picture, and manufacturers
are largely to blame.
oldschool@tubes.com: May 27 01:11PM -0400

On Fri, 26 May 2017 20:44:23 -0400, "(PeteCresswell)" <x@y.Invalid>
wrote:
 
 
>Does anybody know enough about LED lights in general to ballpark the
>problem? Not knowing anything, I tend to think it's the screw-on
>switch/back of the light.
 
Someone once handed me one of those cheap $5 or less LED flashlights,
and said "What's wrong with this thing?". I took a look. When the switch
was turned ON, it worked fine and was bright. When the switch was turned
to the OFF position, the LEDs were still lit, but extremely dim.
 
I have to admit, I was puzzled. I ripped it apart as much as possible.
Icould not find any reason. I could only figure that there was some sort
of resistance leaking across that switch, but I did not have a
multimeter on hand. Plus the switch could not be removed without
destroying the flashlight.
 
I just told the owner to remove the batteries when they are not using
it.
 
On the other hand, I own at least a dozen of those (similar) cheap LED
flashlights sold by Walmart for $1. I have no complaints. They work
fine, and for the price they are worth buying. The only bad thing is
that it costs $1 (or more) to replace the three AAA batteries, so it's
ofter cheaper to just buy another flashlight (they come with batteries).
 
However, "Dollar Tree" has a 4 pack of AAA batts for $1, so that only
costs 75 cents for replacement batteries....
tabbypurr@gmail.com: May 27 11:46AM -0700

> ofter cheaper to just buy another flashlight (they come with batteries).
 
> However, "Dollar Tree" has a 4 pack of AAA batts for $1, so that only
> costs 75 cents for replacement batteries....
 
use rechargeables.
 
 
NT
oldschool@tubes.com: May 27 01:25PM -0400

On Sun, 21 May 2017 23:18:20 -0700, John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>
wrote:
 
 
>I hate having to replace plugs/sockets after four or five years because
>I cheaped out when I repaired it previously...
 
>John :-#(#
 
In 50 years, I have never had to replace a RCA audio jack on anything,
with the exception of once overheating it while soldering and melting he
insulation inside of it. (That was when I was young and using a much too
large soldering iron).
 
There is nothing wrong with RCA plugs/jacks. If they get a little
corroded from being in a bad environment, a little 2000 grit sandpaper
cleans them right up. (Or even a pencil eraser).
oldschool@tubes.com: May 27 01:19PM -0400

On Thu, 25 May 2017 19:39:59 -0500, "Dave M" <dgminala@mediacombb.net>
wrote:
 
>That would go a long way toward insuring that the manuals would survive for
>a reasonably long time (maybe outliving the site owners).
 
>Dave M
 
 
Although it's possible, I dont have a website. Back in the 90's anyone
could make a simple HTML website, but these days that's no longer
possible.
 
Plus, since I am on dialup, I much prefer just storing data on my own
computer. I have 1TB of storage space, so it's a lot easier to have it
right here at home.
 
Heck, just this week, I went to a WIFI and downloaded 140 episodes of
one of my favorite old 1960s TV series (from youtube). It took me about
7 hours of downloading, and ended up being around 22GB. But now I can
watch these anytime anywhere.
 
That's not real possible with these sites that require a person to go
thru multiple stems and enter a Captcha, for each download.
You received this digest because you're subscribed to updates for this group. You can change your settings on the group membership page.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it send an email to sci.electronics.repair+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com.

Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 14 updates in 3 topics

bitrex <bitrex@de.lete.earthlink.net>: May 26 12:49PM -0400

> Hillary Clinton last year?
> That phrase "basketful of
> deplorables" ring any bells?
 
Nobody who was offended by the statement would've voted for her in a
million years anyway, and she was too kind, regardless.
 
The whole world is tired of bending over backwards to appease glomping
redneck Americans who've done nothing but insult, bully, and threaten
anyone who isn't them for decades.
tabbypurr@gmail.com: May 26 02:51PM -0700

On Friday, 26 May 2017 01:10:01 UTC+1, amdx wrote:
 
 
> She has about 40 videos of her travels.
 
> If you find her story inspiring send her some cash.
 
> Mikek
 
why??
 
 
NT
ohger1s@gmail.com: May 26 03:36PM -0700

> up all the way. Which is why so
> many of those hit the dump
> prematurely.
 
 
The moral is correct will be lost on just about everyone. The TV's default is 100% back light right out of the box and will revert back to 100% if you sneeze loudly anywhere near them. When I first started doing LED array repairs I'd demo the proper way to adjust back light, show them where I set it and why, and I'd still see some come back a year later with LED failures, and the back light setting defaulted to 100% once again. Try this: put your back light to 50% in custom, then move to vivid, sports, theater etc. Return to custom and you'll find all your settings where you left them, *except* the back light which is now magically defaulted to 100%. It seems the engineers think people like the light pollution that bleeds through dark scenes and destroys the black level..
 
It's even worse if the customer chooses "demo" instead of "home" when they first perform the out-of-box procedure. The "demo" mode cranks the back light another 20% over the already too high setting. If someone buys a demo off the wall at Walmart, the TV has maybe weeks or months left to live.
 
So, every LED repair I do involves modifying the drive to the array, usually I shoot for 40% reduction in wattage. Most mods involve changing the source resistors on the drive mosfets to raise the feedback dc to the controller IC. Some top of the spectrum brilliance is lost but the black levels improve dramatically. It's a trade off that also virtually guarantees no returns to me.
 
Only one person came back and questioned the brightness of the TV (a Samsung)that I repaired. I explained what I did and why, and expressed surprise that he picked up on the picture and he was the first to do so. He told me he had two of the exact same model in adjoining rooms, and saw the A-B every day. I told him I could certainly undo the mod and explained the trade off in life, and he said he'd keep it that way.
jurb6006@gmail.com: May 26 04:51PM -0700

>"The whole world is tired of bending over backwards to appease glomping
redneck Americans who've done nothing but insult, bully, and threaten
anyone who isn't them for decades. "
 
Where were the cry ins when Obama got elected ?
 
Where were the blocked highways when Obama got elected ?
 
Who was kidnapped and forced to drink toilet water when Obama got elected ?
 
Who disrupted public speaking engagements when Obama got elected ?
 
Don't try to sell that shit to a grown Man. Liberals might buy it. You know why most conservatives are older ? Because they learn in life that liberalism does not work.
thekmanrocks@gmail.com: May 26 04:56PM -0700

ohg...@gmail.com wrote: "Try this: put your back light to 50% in custom, then move to vivid, sports, theater etc. Return to custom and you'll
find all your settings where you left them, *except* the back light which is now magically defaulted to 100%"
 
 
ERRRR! Not on my 2015 Samsung
smart LED! When I cycle through
all those modes back to custom,
or Movie as I use(least background
processing of picture), the backlight
is right where I left it.
 
 
Guess it depends on year, model,
and even size of Samsung.
 
 
So that customer in your last example
agreed not to go back to torch mode?
Good for him! There is hope afterall.
Foxs Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: May 26 07:08PM -0500

On 5/26/2017 6:51 PM, jurb6006@gmail.com wrote:
 
[ The usual stupid shit we've come to expect from him. ]
 
The Oath Keepers who were convinced a constitutional law
professor didn't know anything about the constitution
and were ready to mutiny to defend their view of said
constitution.
 
Mitch McConnell "We are going to do everything in our
power to make him a one term President."
 
Eight years of having to listen to the entire right
refer to the President of the United States as "That
nigger in the White House."
 
The whole "Birther" thing.
 
Alex Jones. Rush Limbaugh. Sean Hannity. Bill O'Reilly.
'Nuff said.
 
Fuck you, ya ignorant redneck snowflake.
 
 
 
 
--
Jeff-1.0
wa6fwi
http://www.foxsmercantile.com
 
---
This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
http://www.avg.com
bitrex <bitrex@de.lete.earthlink.net>: May 26 08:18PM -0400


> Where were the blocked highways when Obama got elected ?
 
> Who was kidnapped and forced to drink toilet water when Obama got elected ?
 
> Who disrupted public speaking engagements when Obama got elected ?
 
I think most conservatives looked at Obama, looked at Romney, shrugged,
and figured they'd be better off anyway.
 
Then called him a Kenyan Muslim for 8 years.
 
The reason people were srs upset over Trump in a way that was different
than Obama is Trump made it a point of his campaign that his presidency
would be dedicated to exacting mass revenge on the most vulnerable
people in society on behalf of the (imagined) slights his base has
"suffered" at their hands.
 
Should they not have taken him seriously? When someone says directly "I
am going to fuck you" I guess they should just relax and see how things go.
 
I'm sure conservatives thought Obama was going to fuck them, too.
Problem is that the definition conservatives have of being "fucked" is
if the government doesn't kiss their ass and do exactly what they want
100% of the time, particularly on matters of religion, taxes, and not
expelling every non-white person in the country.
 
> Don't try to sell that shit to a grown Man. Liberals might buy it. You know why most conservatives are older ? Because they learn in life that liberalism does not work.
 
I think it comes mostly from feeling bitter about girls not liking them
very much when they were younger.
bitrex <bitrex@de.lete.earthlink.net>: May 26 08:19PM -0400

On 05/26/2017 08:08 PM, Foxs Mercantile wrote:
 
> Alex Jones. Rush Limbaugh. Sean Hannity. Bill O'Reilly.
> 'Nuff said.
 
> Fuck you, ya ignorant redneck snowflake.
 
The conservative definition of being "oppressed" is "When I don't get
exactly what I want 100% of the time."
amdx <nojunk@knology.net>: May 26 07:23PM -0500


>> Mikek
 
> why??
 
> NT
 
Because you found her story inspiring.
Mikek
tabbypurr@gmail.com: May 27 07:24AM -0700

On Saturday, 27 May 2017 01:24:03 UTC+1, amdx wrote:
 
> > why??
 
> Because you found her story inspiring.
> Mikek
 
I didn't especially. It's good she's thinking, but that's all. It certainly doesn't warrant any generosity. And I'm sure she has quite enough of her own. When I hand money out it's where it's going to do something truly useful.
 
 
NT
ohger1s@gmail.com: May 27 09:32AM -0700


> So that customer in your last example
> agreed not to go back to torch mode?
> Good for him! There is hope afterall.
 
True story: I was sitting at a restaurant with a friend who has a Sony LCD 50" that I "calibrated" (eyeballed) for him. There were several TVs running and the one near us had a baseball game on. The TV was a Sharp Aquos 60" that had a picture so cartoonishly garish that it was truly offensive to the eye. Not only were the LEDs (apparently) cranked all the way, it also must have had every "enhancement" in the picture menu checked off.
 
So my friend, impressed by what he was watching on the Sharp(!), asked if I could get his Sony to look like this Sharp. I told him in my best deadpan that even if I screwed with every adjustment, I couldn't possibly get the Sony to look that bad.
 
His look of complete confusion led me to ask him if he ever saw grass that color (a bright fluorescent green). I asked him if he ever saw a black shirt have a blue underglow to it. I explained that his Sony was adjusted to give as close a representation as a view through a window, not change the content. He finally saw what I was talking about. I didn't bother explaining the artificial black level "enhancements" this TV had, as that's best done by an A-B demo.
 
But go to any store that has a hundred TVs running. The one cranked to stupidity is the one most people will think has the best picture. Kind of like the old "sizzle and boom" EQ settings people like to adjust their stereos for.
"(PeteCresswell)" <x@y.Invalid>: May 26 08:44PM -0400

I have five of these things:
https://www.amazon.com/Duracell-Durabeam-Tactical-High-Intensity-Flashlight/product-reviews/B00NZTE97S
 
Three of them seem tb OK, but two drain the batteries: 2-3 months on the
shelf and the batteries are dead.
 
If it were all 5, I could buy the allegations of a flawed design.
 
But only 2? I'm thinking some sort of quality control issue.
 
Does anybody know enough about LED lights in general to ballpark the
problem? Not knowing anything, I tend to think it's the screw-on
switch/back of the light.
--
Pete Cresswell
Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: May 26 06:33PM -0700

On Fri, 26 May 2017 20:44:23 -0400, "(PeteCresswell)" <x@y.Invalid>
wrote:
 
>I have five of these things:
>https://www.amazon.com/Duracell-Durabeam-Tactical-High-Intensity-Flashlight/product-reviews/B00NZTE97S
 
I see that you've been shopping at Costco:
<https://www.amazon.com/Duracell-Durabeam-Tactical-High-Intensity-Flashlight/dp/B00NZTE97S>
Junk but cheap. There's no reason you should be using alkaline
batteries for high power lighting when LiIon is so much better.
 
Hmmm.... 108 positive reviews and 255 critical reviews. That should
be a clue.
 
>shelf and the batteries are dead.
>If it were all 5, I could buy the allegations of a flawed design.
>But only 2? I'm thinking some sort of quality control issue.
 
Yep, that's a good possibility. Did you try to measure the current
drain when the flashlight was off? Just unscrew the battery cap and
attach a DVM ammeter with clipleads. My guess is you'll see a few
milliamps drain when off.
 
>Does anybody know enough about LED lights in general to ballpark the
>problem? Not knowing anything, I tend to think it's the screw-on
>switch/back of the light.
 
That's possible. Inside the tail switch is the on/off, dimmer, and
flasher electronics. Here's a teardown of a similar model Duracell
1300 flashlight. I don't think repair is an option because it seems
impossible to disassemble without breaking something:
<https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cpERkuuFciw>
Start at 6:00 for the tail switch.
 
 
--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
tabbypurr@gmail.com: May 26 02:55PM -0700

On Friday, 26 May 2017 08:28:46 UTC+1, Look165 wrote:
 
> > RCA-RCA plugs ?
 
> > Male AND Female
 
> Choose some gold plated ones.
 
totally pointless, unless they're for use in a damp environment.
 
 
NT
You received this digest because you're subscribed to updates for this group. You can change your settings on the group membership page.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it send an email to sci.electronics.repair+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com.

Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 18 updates in 5 topics

"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: May 25 11:59AM -0700

After all the discussions here and the occasional praise for Kroil here and elsewhere, I went to their website and purchased their Introductory Package.
 
I just received it from Kroil this afternoon. I will be testing it later today on some quite-vintage bolts on my wife's Volvo. If it is the Miracle-Formula as-promised, I will be quite pleased.
 
Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
Ralph Mowery <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: May 25 06:08PM -0400

In article <4c646ffa-236d-4dd8-9564-b25c71bd354a@googlegroups.com>,
pfjw@aol.com says...
 
> I just received it from Kroil this afternoon. I will be testing it later today on some quite-vintage bolts on my wife's Volvo. If it is the Miracle-Formula as-promised, I will be quite pleased.
 
> Peter Wieck
> Melrose Park, PA
 
Just give it overnight to soak in. May work sooner on some things.
When working I used about a can a month or more, sometimes a can a day
dpending on the jobs. Just glad the company I worked for was buying it.
 
This was a very large plant and I bet we used over a case a week when
the company was going full blast.
ohger1s@gmail.com: May 26 04:48AM -0700


> I just received it from Kroil this afternoon. I will be testing it later today on some quite-vintage bolts on my wife's Volvo. If it is the Miracle-Formula as-promised, I will be quite pleased.
 
> Peter Wieck
> Melrose Park, PA
 
 
 
A machinist friend of mine swears by Kroil, to the point of derision by others when the subject comes up. Many years ago, one of my buddies drilled out a steel plate and welded in like 8 bolts to it. We buried it in his back yard near the wetlands part of his lot and planned to dig it up in two years and use it as fairly well controlled test bed for various elixirs. Unfortunately, he moved and we forgot to dig it back up.
 
Most evidence I've found on the subject is anecdotal. Without a control there's no way of knowing if one of these solutions would have worked better or worse than any other.
"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: May 26 04:56AM -0700

On Thursday, May 25, 2017 at 6:08:53 PM UTC-4, Ralph Mowery wrote:
> dpending on the jobs. Just glad the company I worked for was buying it.
 
> This was a very large plant and I bet we used over a case a week when
> the company was going full blast.
 
I am no great believer in miracles and/or instant gratification. Overnight is good enough for me (and you are the second with this advice). stripped heads are no fun at all.
 
I am doing the fuel pressure sensor on a Volvo XC70, one (1) torx bolt. Also the MAF sensor, but that is a plastic part held in with hose clamps. No biggie.
 
Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
ggherold@gmail.com: May 26 06:29AM -0700


> I just received it from Kroil this afternoon. I will be testing it later today on some quite-vintage bolts on my wife's Volvo. If it is the Miracle-Formula as-promised, I will be quite pleased.
 
> Peter Wieck
> Melrose Park, PA
 
I got a jelly jar full of Kroil from a neighbor.
It seems to be better than other stuff.. but it's always
hard to tell. I've never tried the 50/50 mix of ATF and acetone.
 
George H.
amdx <nojunk@knology.net>: May 25 07:09PM -0500


> A lot of people do their own diagnosing or follow someone's (alleged) success on youtube and always assume their TV has the same issue. What happens is they buy the wrong board, or the TV doesn't need a board at all if the display itself is bad or has an open LED in the display or a wiring issue inside.
 
> Recent Samsungs are known for LED failures. It would not surprise me if you don't get a return request on one or both of those boards. My dad always told me not to count my chickens before they're hatched.
 
> Good luck.
 
This was an LCD TV for what that's worth. One board was bought by a TV
shop, the other by an individual.
And count my chickens, I already gave the money away.
Saw this young women on Youtube and was inspired so much I made a donation.
 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gKhf_XarJmE
 
She has about 40 videos of her travels.
 
If you find her story inspiring send her some cash.
 
Mikek
ohger1s@gmail.com: May 26 04:48AM -0700

On Thursday, May 25, 2017 at 8:10:01 PM UTC-4, amdx wrote:
 
> > Good luck.
 
> This was an LCD TV for what that's worth. One board was bought by a TV
> shop, the other by an individual.
 
 
Selling to TV shops is the best way to sell boards, but even they sometimes make a guess. Paypal is notorious at siding with the buyer on just a complaint, reasonable or otherwise.
 
Yes, your TV was an LCD, but other than the extraordinarily rare OLED, most TVs are LCD. The first LCD TVs were simply called LCD as opposed to the other flat screen tech at the time: plasma.
 
These TVs used CCFL tubes for back light illumination as LCDs are shutters and don't generate any light (unlike plasma and CRT).
 
Later, when manufacturers found a cheaper way to build back lights, they started using LED arrays to provide the back light for the LCD panel. These TVs are generally called LED, but they are still LCD TVs and use the same screen.
 
In the service trade, we refer to earlier LCDs as CCFLs and later ones as LED TVs.
 
The point of this is although you didn't post a model number, that model looks like an LED LCD, not a CCFL LCD. If it is an LED back lit TV, LED failure is common and when an LED opens, there are various symptoms, most of which duplicate bad power supply or bad main boards.
thekmanrocks@gmail.com: May 26 05:34AM -0700

Foxs Mercantile wrote: "You're an amazingly ignorant fuck. "
 
 
Uuuuhm.. Have we learned
where name-calling got
Hillary Clinton last year?
That phrase "basketful of
deplorables" ring any bells?
amdx <nojunk@knology.net>: May 26 08:02AM -0500


>> This was an LCD TV for what that's worth. One board was bought by a TV
>> shop, the other by an individual.
 
> Selling to TV shops is the best way to sell boards, but even they sometimes make a guess. Paypal is notorious at siding with the buyer on just a complaint, reasonable or otherwise.
 
 
I think the TV shop just made a low ball offer, if it is accepted he
can stock it.
 
 
> Yes, your TV was an LCD, but other than the extraordinarily rare OLED, most TVs are LCD.
 
Just correcting the LED label from the previous post.
 
The first LCD TVs were simply called LCD as opposed to the other flat
screen tech at the time: plasma.
 
> Later, when manufacturers found a cheaper way to build back lights, they started using LED arrays to provide the back light for the LCD panel. These TVs are generally called LED, but they are still LCD TVs and use the same screen.
 
> In the service trade, we refer to earlier LCDs as CCFLs and later ones as LED TVs.
 
> The point of this is although you didn't post a model number, that model looks like an LED LCD, not a CCFL LCD.
 
It had 14 CCFL tubes running across the back panel of the TV.
I also have the inverter PCB for sale, but at the end of a month I
will probably dispose of it.
 
 
> If it is an LED back lit TV, LED failure is common and when an LED opens, there are various symptoms, most of which duplicate bad power supply or bad main boards.
No backlight LEDs to fail.
Mikek
thekmanrocks@gmail.com: May 26 06:17AM -0700

amdx:
 
A BIG contributor to backlight
failure is the setting for it! Most
people do not go into the menus
for these flat panels, and just
watch it in default settings -
typically 'Vivid' or Dynamic
mode.
 
I calibrated my LED set last
year, starting with the backlight
lowered to halfway. Final
setting was 8/20, using Samsung's
scale. It is still plenty bright for
viewing where the TV is in my
house, looks awesome at night,
and neither myself nor anyone
else watching it has complained
of eye fatigue.
 
Moral of the story: Unless the TV
is intended for use outdoors on
sunny days, or on the sun deck of
a cruise ship(!), there is no reason
whatsoever to leave that backlight
at its maximum setting. This is
akin to leaving the Contrast
setting on an old tube TV cranked
up all the way. Which is why so
many of those hit the dump
prematurely.
thekmanrocks@gmail.com: May 26 06:20AM -0700

amdx:
 
A BIG contributor to backlight
failure is the setting for it! Most
people do not go into the menus
for these flat panels, and just
watch it in default settings -
typically 'Vivid' or Dynamic
mode.
 
I calibrated my LED set last
year, starting with the backlight
lowered to halfway. Final
setting was 8/20, using Samsung's
scale. It is still plenty bright for
viewing where the TV is in my
house, looks awesome at night,
and neither myself nor anyone
else watching it has complained
of eye fatigue.
 
Moral of the story: Unless the TV
is intended for use outdoors on
sunny days, or on the sun deck of
a cruise ship(!), there is no reason
whatsoever to leave that backlight
at its maximum setting. This is
akin to leaving the Contrast
setting on an old tube TV cranked
up all the way. Which is why so
many of those hit the dump
prematurely.
"Ron D." <ron.dozier@gmail.com>: May 25 05:10PM -0700

Maybe 30 years ago, I replaced my cables with custom lengths with a solid core Soldered with a decent grip.
 
Now you have RG6 and RG59 compression RCA's which don't look like a bad alternative for non-flexible stuff.
 
https://www.circuitspecialists.com/search.html?searchQuery=RCA+plugs
Look165 <look165@numericable.fr>: May 26 09:28AM +0200

Choose some gold plated ones.
 
oldschool@tubes.com: May 25 03:44PM -0400

On Wed, 24 May 2017 16:44:38 -0500, "Dave M" <dgminala@mediacombb.net>
wrote:
 
 
>https://www.manualslib.com/brand/radio-shack/ seems to have a fairly large
>assortment of manuals for all sorts of RS stuff.
 
>Dave M
 
That does seem to have a lot of them, but I can only view them page by
page. To download them, they require a CAPCHA. If I said what I think
about capchas, I'd be banned from the newsgroup for using foul language.
If I can even read the f**king things, they do not work on my slow
dialup system, nor do they work on my cellphone. I'd like to shoot every
one of the sons of a b***hes who use them idiotic things. They serve no
purpose whatsoever.
oldschool@tubes.com: May 25 03:49PM -0400

On Wed, 24 May 2017 17:38:07 -0500, "Dave M" <dgminala@mediacombb.net>
wrote:
 
 
>> Dave M
 
>Yet another at http://www.manualsdir.com/brands/radio-shack.html
 
>Dave M
 
Doing a little research on my own, I ran across this site.
http://www.repeater-builder.com/radio-shack/radio-shack-index.html
 
It has info and schematics for a lot of the RadioShack Ham gear,
including scanners, weather radios, test equipment and more. They do NOT
encourage other R.S. consumer electronics (I wish they would), but it's
a decent site, even if it's a bit disorganized.
 
Best of all, no f**king Capchas......
"Dave M" <dgminala@mediacombb.net>: May 25 07:39PM -0500

> NOT encourage other R.S. consumer electronics (I wish they would),
> but it's a decent site, even if it's a bit disorganized.
 
> Best of all, no f**king Capchas......
 
Why don't you contact the owners of those sites and see if they would be
amenable to allowing you to set up a mirror of their manual collections?
That would go a long way toward insuring that the manuals would survive for
a reasonably long time (maybe outliving the site owners).
 
Dave M
jurb6006@gmail.com: May 25 09:37PM -0700

>"If I said what I think
about capchas, I'd be banned from the newsgroup for using foul language. "
 
You can't be banned. Go ahead and cut loose.
oldschool@tubes.com: May 25 03:30PM -0400

On Thu, 25 May 2017 09:10:07 -0400, bitrex
>each.
 
>Also bought up all their TO-3 power transistors (2N3055 etc.) for around
>30 cents each
 
The store I went to, all the small parts in the bins were $1. No matter
what it was. But there were little left.
 
I got Three 12V and One 24V power transformers for just over $2 each.
That was at 80% off, but the packages on them showed they were OLD
stock, thus old prices. I first grabbed one of each off the shelf, but
for that price, I decided to take all four. That's a steal.
You received this digest because you're subscribed to updates for this group. You can change your settings on the group membership page.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it send an email to sci.electronics.repair+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com.