Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 15 updates in 5 topics

avagadro7@gmail.com: Aug 25 09:24AM -0700

for 18 Ga wire out of dashboard receiver.
 
want to separate connectors n pull receiver out during sensitive parking.
 
several dc and 4 stereo connectors if possible with no distortion/loss .
 
broadcast quality .....
dplatt@coop.radagast.org (Dave Platt): Aug 24 12:41PM -0700

In article <6dirrb98cu6lo5gvi6gn6tkgma166o5b12@4ax.com>,
>right? So it can combine the signals audibly but not electrically,
>because if they mixed here, they would get mixed on all the other
>speakers too?
 
That could be. Dual-voice-coil woofers are fairly common.
 
>But couldn't they do that in the woofer amplifier and use a standar
>speaker with only one voice coil?
 
An advantage to using them, is that you can use a 2-channel audio
amplifier (left and right), run each channel through a crossover, and
then feed each channel's "woofer" signal to a separate voice coil on
the woofer.
 
You can certainly do the trick you're thinking of, but it would
require an amplifier with at least three channels (left, right, and
woofer) and would require that the woofer-to-mid/tweeter crossover be
performed prior to amplification. There are certainly audio setups
which work this way, but they're somewhat more of a "custom" job.
 
>Also one pair of wires, unplugged from the car, has 32 ohms between
>them, and the other pair has 2.5. That's a bad sign, isn't it?
 
Possibly.
 
Another possibility is that what you have is a specialized woofer,
meant for use wiht an active-feedback "servo" amplifier. One wire
pair (and coil) would be the actual "driving" voice coil... probably
the one with 2.5 ohms DC resistance (a 4- or 8-ohm nominal impedance
at audio frequencies). The other coil would be a "sense" coil, whose
output would be proportional to cone velocity.
 
A servo amplifier would use feedback from the sense coil to control
the output to the voice coil. This approach can allow the amplifier
to provide deeper bass with a flatter frequency response, without
requiring a critically-tuned enclosure for the woofer.
 
You'd probably need to find a model number on the woofer, and look up
the data sheet, to figure out whether you have an actual problem (open
or shorted voice coil) or a servo-amplified single-channel subwoofer.
 
Inspecting the wiring at your amplifier or head-end unit would also be
instructive. Check to see if it has two outputs for the woofer, or a
single woofer output and a "sense" or "feedback" or "servo" input for
the other pair of wires.
 
>speaker was facing me, I couldn't see this.
 
>How good do you think it will sound with only one channel? Will I
>keep steering the car towards the side of the road?
 
No, but if you use it to listen to the radio, you might end up being
pulled either towards right-wing talk radio or left-wing NPR/APR
stations :-)
Micky <NONONObobbyburns1111@gmail.com>: Aug 24 08:02PM -0400

On Wed, 24 Aug 2016 12:41:11 -0700, dplatt@coop.radagast.org (Dave
Platt) wrote:
 
>the output to the voice coil. This approach can allow the amplifier
>to provide deeper bass with a flatter frequency response, without
>requiring a critically-tuned enclosure for the woofer.
 
This is all very interesting. I understood most of it but will read
it one or two more times.
 
>You'd probably need to find a model number on the woofer, and look up
>the data sheet, to figure out whether you have an actual problem (open
>or shorted voice coil) or a servo-amplified single-channel subwoofer.
 
Actually I have the model number because the Simply Speakers kit to
repair in includes the model number, for my make, model, and year car,
and tomorrow I'll go hunting for into.
 
>instructive. Check to see if it has two outputs for the woofer, or a
>single woofer output and a "sense" or "feedback" or "servo" input for
>the other pair of wires.
 
I'm not sure how to get the amp out of the car or where I could look
at it. It's behind the back seat, and attached somehow.
 
But I did look more closely at the speaker and alas, the wire to the
2.5 inch coil has been cut. At first I thought it just broke off, but
the end shows no wire, both ends show some of the red insulation, and
the wire is now 1 or 2 mm. too short to reach the other piece. I
could pull some through the zip tie, but plainly the last guy thought
this voice coil was a problem. And after he cut the wire, then he
unplugged or never plugged in the speaker.
 
I had hoped the speaker was just never plugged in at the assembly
plant. I had a 1965 car which had big fresh air vents at the
driver's and passenger's outer ankle, but no fresh air. When I had
time to take off the kick panel, I saw that the cable was never
connected to the doors. Also, my brother couldn't pull the car away
from a stop without lurching forward. I thought he didnt' know how to
drive. After he gave me the car, it took a couple months before I
found that the wire to the vacuum advance was missing. The T-
connection was hidden behind something else, and only because I had
climbed up on something to get to the middle of the engine compartment
did I notice this. Adding a hose made everything good.
But no such luck with this speaker.
 
I will repair it tomorrow or Friday and install it anyhow. I have
wireless speakers working off my PC and two are the left channel and
two are the right, and they are in 4 different rooms. More to the
point, I didn't notice that one of my two desk speakers was not
working. About 1 song in 30 or 40, I couldn't hear the singer. Maybe
that was what made me put my ear next to the other speaker and learn
that it was dead!
 
So apparently my standards are low, and I might like a one channel
woofer.
 
 
>No, but if you use it to listen to the radio, you might end up being
>pulled either towards right-wing talk radio or left-wing NPR/APR
>stations :-)
 
That does sound dangerous.
avagadro7@gmail.com: Aug 25 09:21AM -0700

goo.gl/r8SSXT
JW <none@dev.null>: Aug 24 01:07PM -0400

As the Subject says: I have a Linksys WRT54GS v.2 wireless router which
occasionally drops to 1.0 Mbps and stays there. Signal strength still
shows excellent. Can't even ping the router via a wireless connection when
it happens. Great fun when I'm throwing a bid in at the last moment on
eBay. :(
 
I have to unplug the thing for it to recover.
 
Happens once a day or so, but sometimes not for several days or more.
Wired connections work fine.
 
Firmware version: v4.71.4
 
There seems to be a number of complaints out there on this, but no
solutions.
http://www.linksysinfo.org/index.php?threads/wrt54gs-wireless-connection-speed-dropping.6854/
http://www.dslreports.com/forum/r13974684-Wireless-WRT54GS-Speed-54Mbps-down-to-1-0-Mbps
https://community.linksys.com/t5/Wireless-Routers/Speed-drops-to-1-0-mbps/td-p/15913
 
Checking the update page, there's no firmware updates. Funny, there used
to be... Maybe they pulled the plug on this model?
http://www.linksys.com/us/support-article?articleNum=148629
 
Thanks.
whit3rd <whit3rd@gmail.com>: Aug 24 01:05PM -0700

On Wednesday, August 24, 2016 at 10:09:15 AM UTC-7, JW wrote:
> occasionally drops to 1.0 Mbps and stays there. Signal strength still
> shows excellent. Can't even ping the router via a wireless connection when
> it happens.
 
The channels available for WiFi are all unlicensed; if there's a strong second
WiFi user (or other device in the 2.4 GHz band) its broadcast could swamp
yours, except for pauses between transfers.
 
Signal strength might be excellent, but the road is crowded.
jack4747@gmail.com: Aug 25 06:07AM -0700

Il giorno mercoledì 24 agosto 2016 19:09:15 UTC+2, JW ha scritto:
 
> Checking the update page, there's no firmware updates. Funny, there used
> to be... Maybe they pulled the plug on this model?
> http://www.linksys.com/us/support-article?articleNum=148629
 
there are firmware update, just not from Linksys:
 
http://www.dd-wrt.com/site/index
 
Bye Jack
JW <none@dev.null>: Aug 25 11:11AM -0400

On Thu, 25 Aug 2016 06:07:24 -0700 (PDT) jack4747@gmail.com wrote in
>> http://www.linksys.com/us/support-article?articleNum=148629
 
>there are firmware update, just not from Linksys:
 
>http://www.dd-wrt.com/site/index
 
Thanks. Looks like I have already have the last version ever released by
Linksys.
http://dd-wrt.com/wiki/index.php/Linksys_WRT54GS_v2.0
JW <none@dev.null>: Aug 25 11:12AM -0400

On Wed, 24 Aug 2016 13:05:43 -0700 (PDT) whit3rd <whit3rd@gmail.com> wrote
>WiFi user (or other device in the 2.4 GHz band) its broadcast could swamp
>yours, except for pauses between transfers.
 
>Signal strength might be excellent, but the road is crowded.
 
Thanks, I don't think it's that given the symptoms (requires power cycle)
Micky <NONONObobbyburns1111@gmail.com>: Aug 24 07:38PM -0400

On Fri, 19 Aug 2016 19:49:33 +0100, MJC <gravity@mjcoon.plus.com>
wrote:
 
>> perhaps this is android speak
 
>Pretty certain mobo=motherboard, but I think "i7" is too enigmatic, as
>well.
 
I think that is intergallactica station 7, which iirc is Andromenica,
or maybe Ardmore.
Micky <NONONObobbyburns1111@gmail.com>: Aug 24 07:44PM -0400

On Fri, 19 Aug 2016 13:02:08 -0700 (PDT), "jfeng@my-deja.com"
 
>You can get pc-board mount SATA data connectors on eBay. This seller has 2 for $3.79+$0.80(shipping)
>http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-Pcs-New-Sata-7-Pin-DIP-Straight-Female-Connector-For-Hard-Drive-HDD-/181864444077?hash=item2a57f730ad:g:gfkAAOSwQ15XOX7X
 
How is it that they can ship from ShenZhen, Guangdong, China for 80
cents? I suppose they put everything in a big box and pro-rate the
shipping, but when I get things in the mail, it doesn't seem like that
was done.
 
>http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-Pcs-New-Sata-7-15-Pin-Straight-DIP-Female-Connector-For-Hard-Drive-HDD-/171977931322?hash=item280aaefa3a:g:BIkAAOSwxehXOX89
 
>Same prices for connectors of the other gender.
 
>Disclaimer: I know nothing about this eBay vendor, but I have purchased from other vendors on eBay.
 
Me too. Various things. I've always had good results except I bought
a camera, new but without a box or instructions or anything, and it
didn't have a battery which I think it should have either had or
denoted that it didn't have. That cost me, after shopping, $15. Still
the total was cheaper than elsewhere, but not as much. The camera
works fine.
Clifford Heath <no.spam@please.net>: Aug 25 10:26AM +1000

On 25/08/16 09:44, Micky wrote:
> How is it that they can ship from ShenZhen, Guangdong, China for 80
> cents? I suppose they put everything in a big box and pro-rate the
> shipping
 
China Post (aka the Chinese government) provides free shipping
for small parcels. So "big box" here means "shipping container"
and "pro-rate" is at zero cost... except to the postal services
in the destination countries.
"jfeng@my-deja.com" <jfeng@my-deja.com>: Aug 24 05:38PM -0700

On Wednesday, August 24, 2016 at 4:44:24 PM UTC-7, Micky wrote:
> How is it that they can ship from ShenZhen, Guangdong, China for 80 cents?
I don't know, but it works. Last year, I bought a USB header from a Hong Kong vendor for US$1.77 and it arrived in a reasonable length of time.
 
I assume that the manufacturing cost of the connectors is less than 1 yuan, and the price to the middleman is 2-3 yuan. That would leave some room for shipping and a profit.
"Gareth Magennis" <soundserviceleeds@outlook.com>: Aug 25 02:00AM +0100

"bitrex" wrote in message news:5pHtz.52889$Z%.47195@fx35.iad...
 
 
I had some free time the other day and figured out the issue with
my basket case i7 (bent power supply connection pin on the
motherboard.) It's powering up now.
 
Unfortunately it looks like the ribbon cable connector has been
damaged for the SATA drive on the mobo as well, so the clamp
dosent "catch" with the cable when it's inserted and the clamp
pressed down. I considered taping it in but on this type of
connector, where it isn't a friction fit, I don't think it will
apply enough pressure to keep it secure.
 
Any suggestions? Dab of superglue or hot glue gun, maybe?
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
I've been on this planet a few years now, and have yet to find a situation
where Superglue is a good idea.
It pretty much just does not work, except for sticking your fingers
together.
 
Hot melt glue sometimes works, but does not adhere well to many surfaces.
 
 
Silicone glue/sealant pretty much sticks to everything, is flexible and
shockproof, and can be peeled off without damaging anything if you need to
have another go.
Win, win, win, in my book, I rarely use anything else now.
 
 
 
 
 
Gareth.
Jerry Peters <jerry@example.invalid>: Aug 24 08:11PM

> 10 inches above the water heater - so I don't really think I can get the
> old anode out without removing the entire water heater, which I don't
> really want to do.
 
Doesn't seem like it, especially if it's part of the water inlet tube.
For low clearance separate anode rod applications there's a special
replacement rod that has periodic narrow sections, so you can bend
it to get it to fit.
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 13 updates in 5 topics

Micky <NONONObobbyburns1111@gmail.com>: Aug 24 12:29PM -0400

I took the back of my back seat out of my car and was surprised to see
that I have a woofer!
 
It has 4 wires running down the cone, two on each side. Is that
because it has 2 voice coils, one for the left channel and one for the
right? So it can combine the signals audibly but not electrically,
because if they mixed here, they would get mixed on all the other
speakers too?
 
But couldn't they do that in the woofer amplifier and use a standar
speaker with only one voice coil?
 
Also one pair of wires, unplugged from the car, has 32 ohms between
them, and the other pair has 2.5. That's a bad sign, isn't it?
 
I wish I'd noticed this before I spent $25 for a new foam surround,
but the I bought that before taking the speaker out, and since the
speaker was facing me, I couldn't see this.
 
How good do you think it will sound with only one channel? Will I
keep steering the car towards the side of the road?
Jorge Ricardo Rodriguez <jrrz.iescd@gmail.com>: Aug 24 08:48AM -0700

Hi all,
I am just starting into this world of fixing industrial PCBAs.
 
As you may know, in this kind of repairing, normally there are no schematics available, most of the times you do not have a PCBA in good conditions to use as reference of what is wrong and what is fine.
 
I just knew about the VI technique for these cases which is useful, but I would like to know more about it and about more other techniques to use in these cases to debug industrial PCBAs.
 
Do someone of you have blogs/books/nice online courses with useful information?
 
I would highly appreciate your help and advises on this topic.
 
Thanks!
Regards
avagadro7@gmail.com: Aug 23 03:54PM -0700


> > recirculate is for a load of rotting fish.
 
> ___
 
> Fresh air fanatics, are we? ;)
 
I drive a van.....
 
defrost is both cool defrost and warm hot defrost .... in South Fla, Texas et al So Cal .....AC during a morning commute generates the Geese Pond Effect ...GPE .....requiring cool defrost.
 
recirculate gives coolest temps, mix is for rotting fish. sorry.
 
the 2008 Ford Econoline reads: MAX AC/NORM AC/VENT/OFF/FLR/MIX/then an ideogram for DEFROST. could be VENT is for rotting fish ? I could ask the dealer but then parts $$$ will go up.....
"Ron D." <Ron.Dozier@gmail.com>: Aug 24 02:13AM -0700

On Saturday, August 20, 2016 at 7:21:00 AM UTC-4, Micky wrote:
 
> >An 82 Celica allowed independent AC compressor on and off and a 2000 Chevy Impala did the same thing.
 
> The 2000 Toyota turns the AC on when the defroster is turned on, but
> it can be turned off by pressing the AC button.
 
Some versions of Windows, you go to the "Start" menu. Some things rub off. <G>.
 
 
> The 84, 88, and 95 Lebarons had a separate switch for AC, a mechanical
> switch where Off meant Off.
 
> I don't think any of these cars had a MAX setting by that name.
 
The Celica didn't have a setting labeled MAX, but the control module needed to know. My guess would be that if the evaporator got too cold and it was in recirculate, open 1/2 of the re-circulate door. If it was not in recirculate, then turn off the compressor if the evaporator got too cold. The temp lever mechanically controlled a water valve.
 
I tried to look up the parts, but seeing how the door worked wasn't really possible. The real reason I knew is because I installed all of the pieces.
 
When a 1968 Chrysler "Aftermarket" AC got too cold, you would get water on your feet on turns. They made units that would bolt under the dash in that ERA. This particular mounting bracket used the thermostat housing to mount the compressor.
"Ron D." <Ron.Dozier@gmail.com>: Aug 24 02:30AM -0700


> A lot of owners manuals suggest a temperature setting
> between "10 and 2 o'clock" when using Defrost, vs
> extreme/full cold or hot, respectively, for AC or Heater.
 
DEFROST - when there is ice or snow on the windshield
 
DEFOG - When there is water on the inside of the window. The Dew point determines when this occurs. Lowering the humidity of the air increases the heat capacity of the conditioned air and raises the dew point.
 
It's hard to get people to use the AC and Heat at the same time especially when it's cold out and you want to get warm. From a Thermodynamic view, it doesn't work.
 
See, I use thermodynamics in everyday life. Hot water freezes faster than cold water does. Ice expands when cooled. Increasing surface area increases heat loss. A hat will increase body temperature significantly, A hat prevents heat loss from your head. layering clothes is important. I somewhat regulate sleeping temperature by wearing one, two or no socks to bed. A bare foot in a slipper with an air gap will be warmer than a slipper, and a tight fitting sock. Wet clothes are bad when trying to stay warm.
thekmanrocks@gmail.com: Aug 24 04:25AM -0700

Ron D. wrote: " DEFROST - when there is ice or snow on the windshield
 
DEFOG - When there is water on the inside of the window. The Dew point determines when this occurs. Lowering the humidity of the air increases
the heat capacity of the conditioned air and raises the dew point. "
 
Thanks for that detailed explanation. Most car climate controls
abbreviate it to "DEF", and I always assumed it was short for
defrost.
 
 
 
"It's hard to get people to use the AC and Heat at the same time especially when it's cold out and you want to get warm. From a Thermodynamic view,
it doesn't work."
 
Again, what I wrote were the suggested temperature knob settings
for defrost/defog/de-what-ever. For Heat and AC, the temperature
knob positions should be obvious - although my particular owners
manual suggests setting temperature knob to approximately the 10
o'clock position when using the Auto climate feature for cooling in
summer, and 2 o'clock for heating in winter. I followed the instructions
for Auto in summer and so far, has been transparent and satisfactory.
 
 
 
"See, I use thermodynamics in everyday life. Hot water freezes faster than cold water does. Ice expands when cooled. Increasing surface area increases
heat loss. A hat will increase body temperature significantly, A hat prevents heat loss from your head. layering clothes is important. I somewhat regulate
sleeping temperature by wearing one, two or no socks to bed. A bare foot in a slipper with an air gap will be warmer than a slipper, and a tight fitting sock.
Wet clothes are bad when trying to stay warm. "
 
Nice tips. So it's the air between skin and clothing, and between
layers, that keeps one warm.
jurb6006@gmail.com: Aug 24 05:25AM -0700

>"Ice expands when cooled."
 
No, ice only expands when it becomes ice.
KenO <kenitholson@yahoo.com>: Aug 23 12:23PM -0700

ohg,
 
"There's no "design" issue involved with your particular failure. It's a simple full wave bridge and bypass filter."
 
Thank you for the clarification.
 
Since this is an inexpensive TV do not want to over do things so the Panasonic is not cost effective.
 
You have way more experience than I do so when you say "the cap in your TV was likely just a bad run of caps at least..." I believe you!
 
Am thinking about using a Nichicon replacement and have not found any problems with this brand.
 
Any experience with them? and last is it even cost effective to upgrade any aspect of original 47uF 160V 105C cap?
 
Thanks again for your comments!
ohger1s@gmail.com: Aug 24 05:03AM -0700

On Tuesday, August 23, 2016 at 3:23:20 PM UTC-4, KenO wrote:
 
> You have way more experience than I do so when you say "the cap in your TV was likely just a bad run of caps at least..." I believe you!
 
> Am thinking about using a Nichicon replacement and have not found any problems with this brand.
 
> Any experience with them? and last is it even cost effective to upgrade any aspect of original 47uF 160V 105C cap?
 
Cost effective? Ken, the cost to ship a capacitor of this type will far exceed it's cost.. If you're buying a few hundred thousand of them, then pennies matter. The cheapest Nichicon 47/160 radial I could find at Digikey that was in stock and could be purchased one at a time is 0.61c each. The cheapest Panasonic is 0.71c.
 
A 68/200v 105 Panasonic with 10K hour life is $1.14
 
http://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/panasonic-electronic-components/EEU-ED2D680/P13526-ND/1086751
 
In any case, you're going to have to pay shipping. Does the cost of the cap actually matter?
Jerry Peters <jerry@example.invalid>: Aug 23 08:08PM

> bar . They are usually very very tight. Just drain a little water out
> (gallon or so) and still you may need an extra hand to hold on to the tank.
> You will need some clearance above the tank to put the rod in.
 
I removed mine when the tank was about 5 years old. It took a large
pipe wrench (the hex top of the rod was above the tank) and a 3 foot
or so section of galvanized pipe on the wrench handle and lots of
effort to remove it.
Jerry Peters <jerry@example.invalid>: Aug 23 08:12PM

> pipe.
 
> Seems silly to me that I have to basically disconnect the water pipes just
> to check the anode.
 
Are you sure it's the hot water side? Usually if it's not a separate
rod, it's part of the cold water inlet tube which introduces the cold
water at the bottom of the tank.
"Danny D." <dannydiamico@yahoo.com>: Aug 23 11:40PM

On Tue, 23 Aug 2016 20:12:50 -0000 (UTC), Jerry Peters wrote:
 
> Are you sure it's the hot water side? Usually if it's not a separate
> rod, it's part of the cold water inlet tube which introduces the cold
> water at the bottom of the tank.
 
I'm not sure of anything but that's what the AO Smith technical support
told me on the phone.
 
Taking the suggestion from others, I measured the headroom to only be about
10 inches above the water heater - so I don't really think I can get the
old anode out without removing the entire water heater, which I don't
really want to do.
"Danny D." <dannydiamico@yahoo.com>: Aug 23 11:40PM

On Tue, 23 Aug 2016 20:08:45 -0000 (UTC), Jerry Peters wrote:
 
> pipe wrench (the hex top of the rod was above the tank) and a 3 foot
> or so section of galvanized pipe on the wrench handle and lots of
> effort to remove it.
 
I had a spare hot water tank to practice on and it was 27mm and it took a
very long pipe (about 8 feet) to twist it off.
 
So, those things are in there rather well if they're not removed every once
in a while!
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 10 updates in 2 topics

Tekkie® <Tekkie@comcast.net>: Aug 22 04:07PM -0400

Danny D. posted for all of us...
 
 
 
> When I buy the pilot assembly, should I buy an anode?
 
> I have hard water (calcium carbonate rich).
> How often do you replace your anodes?
 
I don't have that type heater. You may want to see if you can get the anode
out. Might be a problem. I think I would procure the anode locally as I
think shipping may be expensive.
 
--
Tekkie
Jerry Peters <jerry@example.invalid>: Aug 22 08:19PM


> When I buy the pilot assembly, should I buy an anode?
 
> I have hard water (calcium carbonate rich).
> How often do you replace your anodes?
 
*If* you can remove it; there's very little of the aluminum or
magnesium rod still left, and you can see the supporting wires.
 
You should be checking the anode every year or two, this also keeps it
from corroding in place, so you *can* check it.
"tom" <tmiller11147@verizon.net>: Aug 22 04:41PM -0400

"Jerry Peters" <jerry@example.invalid> wrote in message
news:npfmo0$6nm$1@dont-email.me...
> magnesium rod still left, and you can see the supporting wires.
 
> You should be checking the anode every year or two, this also keeps it
> from corroding in place, so you *can* check it.
 
Also, IIRC, it uses a large socket (1-1/8"?) and a long 1/2 drive breaker
bar . They are usually very very tight. Just drain a little water out
(gallon or so) and still you may need an extra hand to hold on to the tank.
You will need some clearance above the tank to put the rod in.
Allodoxaphobia <knock_yourself_out@example.net>: Aug 23 01:12AM

On Mon, 22 Aug 2016 16:40:51 -0000 (UTC), Danny D. wrote:
 
> When I buy the pilot assembly, should I buy an anode?
> How often do you replace your anodes?
 
Me? heh...
I replece my anode every time I replace the H/W heater. :-)
 
Jonesy
"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Aug 22 06:38PM -0700

On Monday, August 22, 2016 at 12:40:54 PM UTC-4, Danny D. wrote:
 
> I have hard water (calcium carbonate rich).
> How often do you replace your anodes?
 
I don't, and will never have the need.
 
The summer house has a 17 year old propane fired Bosch Aquastar tankless unit that has performed flawlessly.
 
The main house has a WM Ultra gas-fired indirect heater that handles all our needs with a 96% efficiency rating.
 
The typical tank-type unit is about 40% efficient and has about a 10-12 year lifespan. Either of our two present systems has an indefinite life-span and runs over 90% efficiency. The WM unit carries a 30-year unlimited warranty in residential use - we are eight years in. The Bosch warranty ran out 2 years ago. But, still making HW - and as much as we can use for as long as we can use it, or the propane runs out, whichever comes first. As to cost, the Bosch was $425 17 years ago, the WM unit (with circulator and controls) was just under $1,000. As it was part of a complete heating system replacement, the incremental cost was minimal. And we have never regretted the choice.
 
Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
"Danny D." <dannydiamico@yahoo.com>: Aug 23 12:12PM

On Mon, 22 Aug 2016 16:26:25 -0700 (PDT), trader_4 wrote:
 
>> You will need some clearance above the tank to put the rod in.
 
> They sell new ones that are in sections for people who have that problem.
 
Thank you for bringing the vertical space up as a problem, as I might have
that problem since the hot water heater is in a relatively small closet,
and it's on a pedestal off the ground.
 
I never thought of that problem until you mentioned it.
"Danny D." <dannydiamico@yahoo.com>: Aug 23 12:12PM

On Mon, 22 Aug 2016 20:19:12 -0000 (UTC), Jerry Peters wrote:
 
> magnesium rod still left, and you can see the supporting wires.
 
> You should be checking the anode every year or two, this also keeps it
> from corroding in place, so you *can* check it.
 
This makes a lot of sense to remove the anode yearly so that you can remove
it before it corrodes in place.
 
Unfortunately for me, the AO Smith anode (PN 9009148005) comes with the
hot-water nipple, so, they have it inline (somehow) with the hot water
pipe.
 
Seems silly to me that I have to basically disconnect the water pipes just
to check the anode.
"Danny D." <dannydiamico@yahoo.com>: Aug 23 12:12PM

On Mon, 22 Aug 2016 16:07:20 -0400, TekkieŽ wrote:
 
> I don't have that type heater. You may want to see if you can get the anode
> out. Might be a problem. I think I would procure the anode locally as I
> think shipping may be expensive.
 
You have a point on the shipping, as the anode is long I presume.
Mine has the hot-water nipple on the end also.
 
I checked three parts stores.
None had it in stock while most had the pilot assembly in stock.
 
So, people replace the AO Smith pilot assembly more so than they do the
anode (or they use a different anode part number).
 
- pilot assembly 9003455005 $88
- anode with nipple 9009148005 $38
"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Aug 23 07:50AM -0700

On Tuesday, August 23, 2016 at 8:12:43 AM UTC-4, Danny D. wrote:
> anode (or they use a different anode part number).
 
> - pilot assembly 9003455005 $88
> - anode with nipple 9009148005 $38
 
You do realize that you have, at best, a 50% chance of replacing the Anode without damaging the tank? And with this in mind, and if this is your intention proceed as follows:
 
a) Identify an immediate source for the Anode. DO NOT buy it, simply identify the source.
b) Only then remove the existing Anode. If you get it out without additional damage to the tank, and if the threads are clean, only then purchase and install the new Anode.
 
Imagine how you would feel if you purchase the new unit prior to removal of the old - and then found the tank to be unusable...
 
And, I really hope that your family has not been without hot water since the 19th? Today being the 23rd? That would just be nuts!
 
Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
susan-phone-macbook-accessories-repair shop Huang <susanrepareparts@gmail.com>: Aug 23 02:38AM -0700

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