Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 10 updates in 2 topics

jurb6006@gmail.com: Aug 12 12:08PM -0700

>"just wondering how taking an GE to someone else to set-up is going to help me when I can't hear fuck all above 12kHz! "
 
There is very little content in music up at 12 KHz, My hearing starts rolling off at about 4KHz and is non-existent at about 14 KHz.
 
Equalizers are not made to act as bass and treble controls. in 90 % of the installations you'll rub across setting the 60 to boost and the 250 to cut will make the bass sound better. Not sure why but many rooms seem to vibrate around 200 Hz or so. Maybe it's the distance between wall studs at the drywall or something. Putting speakers in corners exacerbates the problem.
 
A treble control on an amp might be too "squaky" and a cut on the 2,500 or 3,500 Hz control might help and not obscure that sweet timbre as much.
 
With a 10 band you can do even more. I can make some elchepo "Ohifio" (an event where they dumped a bunch of kunk nearly as cheap as it was worth) and make them sound almost like good Infinitys. (really fucking good speakers)
 
One kinda cool thing came out of EQ, certain models of TV sets. With the use of throat mics, body mics and whatever, the frequency responses is FUBAR. So TCE (RCA and GE) took the midrange and via crossovers inverted the phas of the midrange. The goldenrod or whatever on it said people found the speech to be more intelligible that way. The overall response was largely flat except for the null points, the -3 dB or whatever and they were at about 400 and 3,000 Hz, in that ballpark.
 
Probably a good idea too, I have tried to equalize some of the TV shows and it still sounds like "wok wok wook wok erk". i am talking 2 ten bands with ranges of +/- 10 dB and 12 db. What is 22 dB, about a factor of 100 or so ? Still didn't do it, those "resonances" are there no matter what and they completely obfuscate the overtones necessary to intelligibility. And it is NOT ME. If it was then how come I can hear just fine on old episodes of Gunsmoke, Bonanza, Star Trek ?
 
As far as I am concerned, the pursuit of flat response is over. I want it to sound how I like it, I care not what the recording engineer wanted. And I can state what i want.
 
if I have flat response to start with I want that bottom octave boosted heavily, 30 Hz and such. Then the top octave, give me that timbre, in fact I am having a hard time finding good enough tweeters to overcome my hearing loss. I have actually heard my amp collide with its slew rate.
tabbypurr@gmail.com: Aug 12 03:12PM -0700


> As far as I am concerned, the pursuit of flat response is over. I want it to sound how I like it, I care not what the recording engineer wanted. And I can state what i want.
 
I suspect some future popular distribution format will be multitrack so the end user can change the balance of the instruments to their liking.
Cursitor Doom <curd@notformail.com>: Aug 12 10:15PM

On Sun, 12 Aug 2018 12:08:22 -0700, jurb6006 wrote:
 
> matter what and they completely obfuscate the overtones necessary to
> intelligibility. And it is NOT ME. If it was then how come I can hear
> just fine on old episodes of Gunsmoke, Bonanza, Star Trek ?
 
A lot of people find that. They did some research and put it down to the
fact that the actors in days gone by had much better diction than today's
upstarts. Possibly as a result of paying their dues in theatres. I find
it especially noticeable in English films so perhaps you'd notice it most
in American movies?
 
> I have actually heard my amp collide with its slew rate.
 
You have something decidedly out of whack somewhere!
 
 
 
 
 
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tabbypurr@gmail.com: Aug 12 03:25PM -0700

On Sunday, 12 August 2018 23:15:10 UTC+1, Cursitor Doom wrote:
> in American movies?
 
> > I have actually heard my amp collide with its slew rate.
 
> You have something decidedly out of whack somewhere!
 
A lot of user audio devices are just terrible quality. With tiny speakers they use lots of bass boost & resonance, and the result is often a muddy mess.
 
 
NT
jurb6006@gmail.com: Aug 13 08:58AM -0700

>"I suspect some future popular distribution format will be multitrack so the end user can change the balance of the instruments to their liking. "
 
What we really need are movies you can turn the damn music off.
jurb6006@gmail.com: Aug 13 09:04AM -0700

>"A lot of people find that. They did some research and put it down to the
fact that the actors in days gone by had much better diction than today's
upstarts. Possibly as a result of paying their dues in theatres. "
 
That may be but I think it is mostly the mics' frequency response. They had throat mics that I am sure needed a tom on equalization, now what, they are wireless and clipped to the belt ?
 
>"> I have actually heard my amp collide with its slew rate.
 
You have something decidedly out of whack somewhere! "
 
 
Yup, turned up loud with about 17 dB of boost at about 10 KHz and up, and material with heavy high frequency content.
Peabody <waybackNO584SPAM44@yahoo.com>: Aug 12 11:04PM -0500

I have a Sharp dumb TV, model LC-32LB150U. I'm looking at cutting the cord,
and need to figure out what local channels I can get. With an indoor
antenna, I've found that the antenna pointing direction makes a big
difference in which channels show up on auto-scan, so I'm unable to get all
the potentially receivable channels in the channel list at one time. The
TV's menu offers no option to add channels manually. I can delete channels,
but not add them.
 
So I wondered if there's a service mode or menu, and if so, how do I get to
it, and is it likely to allow me to add channels manually?
 
If that doesn't work, can anyone suggest how to solve this problem? I was
thinking an antenna rotator would solve the actual reception problem, but
all the channels have to be in the auto-detect list somehow. I would rather
avoid two antennas, although that might work temporarily to get the list
right.
Sjouke Burry <burrynulnulfour@ppllaanneett.nnll>: Aug 13 07:40AM +0200

On 13-8-2018 6:04, Peabody wrote:
> all the channels have to be in the auto-detect list somehow. I would rather
> avoid two antennas, although that might work temporarily to get the list
> right.
 
Get a circular antenna.
Adrian Caspersz <email@here.invalid>: Aug 13 12:18PM +0100

On 13/08/18 05:04, Peabody wrote:
> but not add them.
 
> So I wondered if there's a service mode or menu, and if so, how do I get to
> it, and is it likely to allow me to add channels manually?
 
Silly omission of Sharp. I don't think I've seen sets here (UK) with
manual digital tuning missing.
 
> all the channels have to be in the auto-detect list somehow. I would rather
> avoid two antennas, although that might work temporarily to get the list
> right.
 
An outboard receiver box with manual tuning? Or switch between the two,
using a antenna splitter to supply both.
 
--
Adrian C
Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Aug 13 06:57AM -0500

On 8/12/18 11:04 PM, Peabody wrote:
> If that doesn't work, can anyone suggest how to solve this problem?
 
An omnidirectional antenna.
<https://antennadeals.com/HD8000.html>
 
 
 
--
"I am a river to my people."
Jeff-1.0
WA6FWi
http:foxsmercantile.com
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 8 updates in 4 topics

jurb6006@gmail.com: Aug 11 07:59PM -0700

>'Just twiddle with the knobs and sliders until it sounds good. What
else does one need to know? "
 
Much. One sort of rule of thumb is to take FM hiss, turn off the muting and see which controls have the most effect. The ones with less effect should be boosting and the ones with more effect should be cutting. But that is a very rudimentary primer on it. People used to bring their cars to me to have me set the EQ, back when you could. Houses to, in factr I modified an EQ for a friend of mine because it was only a 5 band and he needed slightly different frequencies. I turned the 60 Hz control into about a 40, the 250 into a 150, left the 1,000 alone and the 3,500 but extended the 15 KHz to infinity by removing the inductor. Also the new 40 Hz control's range extended to subsonic. I used resistance and whatever to get the range where I wanted it with the same inductor, but the cap I took to about 10 X its original value.
 
I actually heard that system and knew what it needed.
 
I am a \n expert on frequency response and tone controls. I designed a non-phase-shit set of bass and treble that are so bad to the bone some people wouldn't even want them. The bass turnover adjustable from 48 to 440 Hz, and the treble from 3,500 Hz to about 9,000 Hz. Each has a range of +/- 16 dB.
 
These controls are to be used judiciously, you can't just say "I like bass, crank the bass all the way", you'll fry either your amp or woofers. The only time you want to use the full range of boost or cut is as a crossover for a subsat system. Even then, I have a no phase shift variable crossover. Much better for the task.
 
But now with my ears I must really boost certain ranges, to the point where some people do not want to listen with me. But that's OK, been a loner for major parts of my life. Many people will not eat my food. I am a spice, garlic and HOT freak. The very few who eat mt cooking are very happy, but many people just can't stand the strength of my spices. It is the same with the stereo, it is tailored to ME.
 
You know this mic in the car shit is just a ruse. Like a Rube Golberg design. It will set the sound flat, but wait, they have the same data from the other 999,999 of those cars they sold. So bottom line it is a gimmick/
tabbypurr@gmail.com: Aug 12 12:34AM -0700


> >'Just twiddle with the knobs and sliders until it sounds good. What
> else does one need to know? "
 
> Much. One sort of rule of thumb is to take FM hiss, turn off the muting and see which controls have the most effect. The ones with less effect should be boosting and the ones with more effect should be cutting. But that is a very rudimentary primer on it. People used to bring their cars to me to have me set the EQ, back when you could. Houses to, in factr I modified an EQ for a friend of mine because it was only a 5 band and he needed slightly different frequencies. I turned the 60 Hz control into about a 40, the 250 into a 150, left the 1,000 alone and the 3,500 but extended the 15 KHz to infinity by removing the inductor. Also the new 40 Hz control's range extended to subsonic. I used resistance and whatever to get the range where I wanted it with the same inductor, but the cap I took to about 10 X its original value.
 
5 band graphic eqs were crap, but the worst thing about them was that they wasted one of the sliders on a 1kHz band.
 
 
 
> You know this mic in the car shit is just a ruse. Like a Rube Golberg design. It will set the sound flat, but wait, they have the same data from the other 999,999 of those cars they sold. So bottom line it is a gimmick/
 
Speakers vary though.
 
 
NT
Cursitor Doom <curd@notformail.com>: Aug 12 03:20PM

On Sun, 12 Aug 2018 00:34:54 -0700, tabbypurr wrote:
 
>> same inductor, but the cap I took to about 10 X its original value.
 
> 5 band graphic eqs were crap, but the worst thing about them was that
> they wasted one of the sliders on a 1kHz band.
 
just wondering how taking an GE to someone else to set-up is going to
help me when I can't hear fuck all above 12kHz!
 
 
 
 
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Mike S <mscir@yahoo.com>: Aug 12 01:44AM -0700

Where would I look for a schematic for a Nokta AU Gold Finder Metal
Detector? The owner says it makes a constant siren/beeping sound when
turned on, wasn't dropped or exposed to water. I told him to look for
bad caps while I tried to find a schematic, but so far no joy.
skyusbook <skyusbook3@gmail.com>: Aug 11 08:28PM -0700

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[ Thiele, Warren L. Stutzman, Gary A. ] Antenna Theory and Design 2nd Edition Wiley; 2nd 1997
Ancel B <protofabtt@gmail.com>: Aug 11 09:46AM -0700

On Tuesday, August 7, 2018 at 9:24:36 PM UTC-4, Peter Jason wrote:
> Unit with charger & owners handbook. Working.
> Best offer.
> Peter
 
Hmm..My HP 28S still works fine since the late 80's. Just don't leave batteries in it to degrade.
Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Aug 11 12:53PM -0500

Ya'll got me thinking.
I bought the HP 35 while I was working for TRW back around 1974.
Almost two weeks worth of pay and more than I paid for rent for
a month.
I also remember at the time, "Reverse Polish Notation? This is a
joke isn't it?"
<http://www.hpmuseum.org/two35s.jpg>
I bought it from the book store across the street from El Camino
College.
I have NO idea what ever happened to it.
I did by the HP10C when it came out.
<http://www.hpmuseum.org/10c.jpg>
I still have it, and a 12C I picked up last year in a thrift store
for $5.
<http://www.hpmuseum.org/12c.jpg>
 
 
--
"I am a river to my people."
Jeff-1.0
WA6FWi
http:foxsmercantile.com
John-Del <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Aug 11 04:49PM -0700

On Saturday, August 11, 2018 at 1:54:08 PM UTC-4, Fox's Mercantile wrote:
> a month.
> I also remember at the time, "Reverse Polish Notation? This is a
> joke isn't it?"
 
Back when I was entering college, a scientific calculator was a requirement, and there were several on the recommended list. I narrowed them down to the Texas Instruments SR-51A and the HP (don't remember the model).
 
I bought the SR-51A because I never owned an RPN calculator and figured one less thing for me to learn would be a good thing. The TI was great until a redistributioner relieved me of it. I then bought the HP 34C and became used to the RPN method within minutes.
 
I still would love to have another SR-51A though. Aesthetically, he SR-51A was pretty where the 34C looked so damned professional. I guess it's off to ebay...
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 1 update in 1 topic

John-Del <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Aug 10 10:53AM -0700

On Friday, August 10, 2018 at 7:55:39 AM UTC-4, John-Del wrote:
 
> In later years, I've seen flex circuits (I think they're Kapton) that take soldering heat just fine.
 
> I do keep solder paste in stock because I do a lot of smd IC replacement, and mostly use a hot-air station to keep the heat localized.
 
> Thanks for the info.
 
 
 
I plugged in the old boy and it works perfectly. Even the battery is holding a charge (I changed the cells about 25 years ago when I serviced the flex circuit). Tapping it has no adverse effect on any function, and the keys work perfectly with no lag and no bounce.
 
So the cleaning of the board and chips (and whatever I used for preservative is still holding.
 
There's nothing like the glow of red LEDs either.
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