Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 2 updates in 1 topic

Ralph Mowery <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: May 25 10:55AM -0400

In article <rag5vr$asb$1@reader1.panix.com>,
vjp2.at@at.BioStrategist.dot.dot.com says...
> GRUB triple boot with DOS at zero sector (this has worked for years)
 
> Worth noting that four months ago the computer would not start
> for what I assumed was a bad capacitor
 
Probably just time to get another computer. Isn't that one over 10
years old ?
 
I usually buy the refurbished computers off ebay for around $ 100.
Found out years ago that everyone needs atleast 2 computers , especially
anything running Microsoft products. One to use,and one to work with to
get the bugs worked out. Always have plenty of backups of anything you
do not want to loose such as documents and pictures.
vjp2.at@at.BioStrategist.dot.dot.com: May 27 08:29AM

In <rajuj3$651$1@dont-email.me> by Bob F <bobnospam@gmail.com>
on Tue, 26 May 2020 16:36:02 we perused:
 
 
*+-You did better than I did. I wish mine had been that simple.
 
Ouch. My symapthy
 
- = -
Vasos Panagiotopoulos, Columbia'81+, Reagan, Mozart, Pindus
blog: panix.com/~vjp2/ruminatn.htm - = - web: panix.com/~vjp2/vasos.htm
facebook.com/vasjpan2 - linkedin.com/in/vasjpan02 - biostrategist.com
---{Nothing herein constitutes advice. Everything fully disclaimed.}---
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 5 updates in 1 topic

Ralph Mowery <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: May 28 03:55PM -0400

Today I received one of the roughly $ 20 component testers. Checking
it out and comparing capacitors I notices a big difference in a couple
of them
 
I was using a Fluke 87, a LCR meter from China, an older component
tester and the new component tester.
 
The first capacitor was a Sprague .06 uF 600V. Two China testers showed
near the value. Within the 10% tollorence, The LCR tester showed it
to be .08 and the Fluke as .1 uF.
This is a new,but very old capacitor.
 
Next capacitor was a 20 year old no name of .068 of 50 V made with the
Poly something dielectric. All meters were with in less than 10 %. Ok
here.
Same results with a newer one of .01 uF .
 
Next came a Silver mica. It is .01 at 600 V. Fluke shows up at .0150,
LCR at .0120. Two component testers were close and in spec.
 
 
What gives with some capacitors checking like they should and some being
way off, not just 10 % or so ? I ran the tests several times on each
capacitor to see if maybe the leads were not making good contact and any
other similar thing I may have missed like having my fingers across the
leads.
 
Ralph ku4pt
John-Del <ohger1s@gmail.com>: May 28 01:24PM -0700

On Thursday, May 28, 2020 at 3:55:50 PM UTC-4, Ralph Mowery wrote:
> other similar thing I may have missed like having my fingers across the
> leads.
 
> Ralph ku4pt
 
I think it would be nice to have a dedicated capacitor checker to verify everything.
 
I have a one of the mega328 Chinese component checkers and compared to a Sencore LC75, it's pretty close on capacitor values as long as the capacitors don't have any leakage. If there's any leakage, the values are skewed. The other odd thing is that the 328 will return different results depending on what combination of terminals 1, 2, or 3 are used, which is odd.
 
Compared to the Sencore and an EDS88A ESR meter, the 328 component tester is good enough to trust with ESR.
 
The 328 is pretty good with resistances as long as it's over an ohm. Anything under an ohm is a waste of time. For low value resistors, I use one of my Fluke DMMs.
 
The 328 component tester is also not very accurate on inductances. For inductance, I use the Sencore LC75.
Ralph Mowery <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: May 28 06:53PM -0400

In article <a68bc438-0423-4e6f-b6fd-6f239204722b@googlegroups.com>,
ohger1s@gmail.com says...
 
> I think it would be nice to have a dedicated capacitor checker to verify everything.
 
> I have a one of the mega328 Chinese component checkers and compared to a Sencore LC75, it's pretty close on capacitor values as long as the capacitors don't have any leakage. If there's any leakage, the values are skewed. The other odd thing is that the 328 will return different results depending on what combination of terminals
1, 2, or 3 are used, which is odd.
 
> Compared to the Sencore and an EDS88A ESR meter, the 328 component tester is good enough to trust with ESR.
 
> The 328 is pretty good with resistances as long as it's over an ohm. Anything under an ohm is a waste of time. For low value resistors, I use one of my Fluke DMMs.
 
> The 328 component tester is also not very accurate on inductances. For inductance, I use the Sencore LC75.
 
I did not think to start with to check the leakage. At 500 volts it is
a lot less than .1 Ma. I don't usually worry about resistors under 1
ohm for a value. If they read short they are ok and if open then bad.
If I wanted an accurate ohm measurment under around 1 ohm I would use
the voltage and current test and calculate.
 
I have thought about a quality capacitor checker, but do not do that
much that I need to do more than get into the ball park with them.
"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: May 29 04:07AM -0700

Generally:
 
a) Capacitors that leak will read *higher* than face-value.
b) Unless otherwise marked, film caps are +/- 20%.
c) Unless otherwise marked, an electrolytic cap is -20/+100%.
d) Testing capacitors at operating voltage is best.
e) Failing that, *start* with an ESR meter, then measure capacitance.
 
There are many ways for a capacitor to test 'funny' depending on their nature and the nature of the test instrument. Be sure you understand how the instrument tests before taking the results as necessarily valid.
 
I keep a Fluke multi-meter with capacitance testing, a Sencore LCR meter, and a PEAK ESR meter. And, a vintage, but fully functional Heath cap checker good up to 450 VDC.
 
Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
John-Del <ohger1s@gmail.com>: May 29 09:39AM -0700

On Thursday, May 28, 2020 at 6:53:12 PM UTC-4, Ralph Mowery wrote:
 
> > Compared to the Sencore and an EDS88A ESR meter, the 328 component tester is good enough to trust with ESR.
 
> > The 328 is pretty good with resistances as long as it's over an ohm. Anything under an ohm is a waste of time. For low value resistors, I use one of my Fluke DMMs.
 
> > The 328 component tester is also not very accurate on inductances. For inductance, I use the Sencore LC75.
 
I don't usually worry about resistors under 1
> ohm for a value. If they read short they are ok and if open then bad.
> If I wanted an accurate ohm measurment under around 1 ohm I would use
> the voltage and current test and calculate.
 
I work on a lot of current regulated power supplies where the source pin of a driver mosfet is grounded through a low value resistor of fractional ohms and tight tolerance. The voltage drop across it (or several in parallel arrangement for to get a value between standard values). A tenth of an ohm is the difference between a tightly regulated supply and a runaway.
 
 
> I have thought about a quality capacitor checker, but do not do that
> much that I need to do more than get into the ball park with them.
 
Then the component tester is good enough for what you need. They read value and they read ESR. They can't do leakage though. On rare occasions I've found caps that read fine for value and ESR, but those values change after charging them to their rated voltage.
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 2 updates in 1 topic

Bob F <bobnospam@gmail.com>: May 26 01:36PM -0700

> drive. It was dangling between furniture. USB connection imperfect. Put it
> back. Computer booted. Turned out I managed to do same to my modem. (I hate
> WinModem. Won't work in Unix.) But dang. Now I can breathe again.
 
You did better than I did. I wish mine had been that simple.
vjp2.at@at.BioStrategist.dot.dot.com: May 27 08:29AM

In <rajuj3$651$1@dont-email.me> by Bob F <bobnospam@gmail.com>
on Tue, 26 May 2020 16:36:02 we perused:
 
 
*+-You did better than I did. I wish mine had been that simple.
 
Ouch. My symapthy
 
- = -
Vasos Panagiotopoulos, Columbia'81+, Reagan, Mozart, Pindus
blog: panix.com/~vjp2/ruminatn.htm - = - web: panix.com/~vjp2/vasos.htm
facebook.com/vasjpan2 - linkedin.com/in/vasjpan02 - biostrategist.com
---{Nothing herein constitutes advice. Everything fully disclaimed.}---
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 4 updates in 2 topics

vjp2.at@at.BioStrategist.dot.dot.com: May 25 08:23PM

In <g1PyG.274260$Ff6.64756@fx40.iad> by ABLE1 <somewhere@nowhere.net>
on Mon, 25 May 2020 08:40:40 we perused:
 
 
*+-Could have been the EARTHQUAKE that started it all!! :-)
 
I needed the laugh as painful as it is
 
Most of my computer failures (modems, monitors) linked to storms.
 
But my first DOS machine had a problem like this in its fifth year (1990)
Back then folks answered the phone and the mfr (Ampro in California)
told me it was the AD converter. But I couldn't find a place to sell me one.
So I wrote to the mfr(TDK) and asked for an "engineering sample". FREE.
Even funnier because I cudda walked to the AD converter mfr in two hours.
 
- = -
Vasos Panagiotopoulos, Columbia'81+, Reagan, Mozart, Pindus
blog: panix.com/~vjp2/ruminatn.htm - = - web: panix.com/~vjp2/vasos.htm
facebook.com/vasjpan2 - linkedin.com/in/vasjpan02 - biostrategist.com
---{Nothing herein constitutes advice. Everything fully disclaimed.}---
Bob F <bobnospam@gmail.com>: May 25 10:43PM -0700

> blog: panix.com/~vjp2/ruminatn.htm - = - web: panix.com/~vjp2/vasos.htm
> facebook.com/vasjpan2 - linkedin.com/in/vasjpan02 - biostrategist.com
> ---{Nothing herein constitutes advice. Everything fully disclaimed.}---
 
I had one act up during boot. I discovered that if I changed the memory
configuration, by adding, removing,or moving a RAM, then it would boot
(to BIOS?). Someone suggested that forced the BIOS to re-generate some
configuration data.
vjp2.at@at.BioStrategist.dot.dot.com: May 26 09:19AM

Wow! FOund it. Works!
 
I remembered that it complained that I could use a faster USB port.
Wierd. DIdn't touch it. Then I remembered I couldn't see my external USB hard
drive. It was dangling between furniture. USB connection imperfect. Put it
back. Computer booted. Turned out I managed to do same to my modem. (I hate
WinModem. Won't work in Unix.) But dang. Now I can breathe again.
 
 
 
- = -
Vasos Panagiotopoulos, Columbia'81+, Reagan, Mozart, Pindus
blog: panix.com/~vjp2/ruminatn.htm - = - web: panix.com/~vjp2/vasos.htm
facebook.com/vasjpan2 - linkedin.com/in/vasjpan02 - biostrategist.com
---{Nothing herein constitutes advice. Everything fully disclaimed.}---
ggherold@gmail.com: May 25 07:42PM -0700

On Tuesday, May 19, 2020 at 2:36:20 PM UTC-4, Andrew Way wrote:
> I have tried the recommendations in the laser faq for this model, DC voltage is good/stable, checked all ribbon cable conn's (visually, as i'd hate to brick it by poking around with a multimeter). I have also tried adjusting the pot down for a lower current/power setting to no avail- it resets and takes its 6mins to find a new stable setting, but the fringes never settle.
> I do not have a oscilloscope or power meter handy as of yet, but it seems to be stuck in a loop. Any suggestions would be appreciated!
> -Roo
 
hmm, no 'scope. I don't know these lasers, but is there both a current
control loop and thermal control? Can you look at those signals?
A few minutes sound like it might be the temperature.
 
George h.
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 6 updates in 2 topics

vjp2.at@at.BioStrategist.dot.dot.com: May 25 10:17AM

My BIOS startup screen stops in the middle of the like
DEL to Bootup ESC t
That's right, doens't finish the "to"
If I keep del pressed when reboot it says
DEL to reboot
no ESC
 
It was working fifteen minutes earlier
 
Athlon 64 3200 AOpen 2007 and KVM'd with a 1995 P5-75 (used to post this)
GRUB triple boot with DOS at zero sector (this has worked for years)
 
Worth noting that four months ago the computer would not start
for what I assumed was a bad capacitor
 
 
 
- = -
Vasos Panagiotopoulos, Columbia'81+, Reagan, Mozart, Pindus
blog: panix.com/~vjp2/ruminatn.htm - = - web: panix.com/~vjp2/vasos.htm
facebook.com/vasjpan2 - linkedin.com/in/vasjpan02 - biostrategist.com
---{Nothing herein constitutes advice. Everything fully disclaimed.}---
Jeff Urban <jurb6006@gmail.com>: May 25 03:50AM -0700

Did you do the regular drill on it ? (any beeps ?)
 
Start by pulling the cards, other than video if they plug in plug them out. Does it boot ? If not then you go to the drives and unplug all the DVDs and whatnot, all except the boot drive. Boot ? If not unplug the boot drive. Does it say something along the lines of "OS not found" ? If not then you take out the backup battery. Intentionally drain it down. Not the battery but the circuit. Make sure the circuit is dead. Short out the clips with something. Does it start up and sat "CMOS checksum error - defaults loaded" ? If not take ALL the RAM out. It should beep. If not it is either the mobo or the PS, and you can check for a bad PS anytime with a voltmeter. you should already have.
 
But that is pretty much the drill. I can't help you with Winshit 10 but this is hardware and that used to be kinda my specialty. They sometimes got shit so fucked up I had to flash the BIOS. Cool Man, gimme some money.
 
Anyway, just go through the steps I said, you don't even need a soldering iron. get back with the results and we can then get to the bottom of this.
vjp2.at@at.BioStrategist.dot.dot.com: May 25 11:07AM

I'm in no position to do all that in the middle of lockdown
 
I keep rebooting and it keeps stopping in the middle of the BIOS screen
exactly at the "t"
 
I do suspect it may just go away, so maybe if I don't use it a while?
 
I got this P5 with dos kermit to dial up to plain text bash (lynx, tin) ISP
 
I guess i need the "rest" and so does the computer
 
- = -
Vasos Panagiotopoulos, Columbia'81+, Reagan, Mozart, Pindus
blog: panix.com/~vjp2/ruminatn.htm - = - web: panix.com/~vjp2/vasos.htm
facebook.com/vasjpan2 - linkedin.com/in/vasjpan02 - biostrategist.com
---{Nothing herein constitutes advice. Everything fully disclaimed.}---
ABLE1 <somewhere@nowhere.net>: May 25 08:40AM -0400


> I do suspect it may just go away, so maybe if I don't use it a while?
 
> I got this P5 with dos kermit to dial up to plain text bash (lynx, tin) ISP
 
> I guess i need the "rest" and so does the computer
 
Could have been the EARTHQUAKE that started it all!! :-)
Ralph Mowery <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: May 25 10:55AM -0400

In article <rag5vr$asb$1@reader1.panix.com>,
vjp2.at@at.BioStrategist.dot.dot.com says...
> GRUB triple boot with DOS at zero sector (this has worked for years)
 
> Worth noting that four months ago the computer would not start
> for what I assumed was a bad capacitor
 
Probably just time to get another computer. Isn't that one over 10
years old ?
 
I usually buy the refurbished computers off ebay for around $ 100.
Found out years ago that everyone needs atleast 2 computers , especially
anything running Microsoft products. One to use,and one to work with to
get the bugs worked out. Always have plenty of backups of anything you
do not want to loose such as documents and pictures.
vjp2.at@at.BioStrategist.dot.dot.com: May 25 11:09AM

I tried the masking tape and for a minute. I thought it worked then it just
slept on me. I played with the sliding on-auto-off switch and indeed it may
be the auto contact isn't working. Yeah, if we survive covid/lockdown,
replace switch. At least it works as manual.
 
QUake was 2011, sorry
 
 
 
 
- = -
Vasos Panagiotopoulos, Columbia'81+, Reagan, Mozart, Pindus
blog: panix.com/~vjp2/ruminatn.htm - = - web: panix.com/~vjp2/vasos.htm
facebook.com/vasjpan2 - linkedin.com/in/vasjpan02 - biostrategist.com
---{Nothing herein constitutes advice. Everything fully disclaimed.}---
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 3 updates in 1 topic

vjp2.at@at.BioStrategist.dot.dot.com: May 24 12:48PM

Ever since the quake a few years ago the motion detector switch by my front
hall has been too sensitive, causing me to use it manually.
 
I opened it to look for a sensitivty adjuser, no luck.
 
Am considering putting masking tape over the sensor to make it less
sensitive. Or to put a box around it (ie, wall it offon sides).
 
Other Ideas?
 
Maybe the quake caused a crack in my wall I can't see. I was squating when
the quake hit and fell on my face. Yes, in outer NYC. I have two other such
switches of the same make and age, no problem.
 
 
- = -
Vasos Panagiotopoulos, Columbia'81+, Reagan, Mozart, Pindus
blog: panix.com/~vjp2/ruminatn.htm - = - web: panix.com/~vjp2/vasos.htm
facebook.com/vasjpan2 - linkedin.com/in/vasjpan02 - biostrategist.com
---{Nothing herein constitutes advice. Everything fully disclaimed.}---
Michael Terrell <terrell.michael.a@gmail.com>: May 24 06:09AM -0700


> Maybe the quake caused a crack in my wall I can't see. I was squatting when
> the quake hit and fell on my face. Yes, in outer NYC. I have two other such
> switches of the same make and age, no problem.
 
 
The quake may have changed the aim, and the focal point Try adusting its aim. Mine are least sensitive, dead center, since they detect a differential in temperatures. I had to aim one at a wall, to use it in a long hallway.
ABLE1 <somewhere@nowhere.net>: May 24 09:09AM -0400


> Maybe the quake caused a crack in my wall I can't see. I was squating when
> the quake hit and fell on my face. Yes, in outer NYC. I have two other such
> switches of the same make and age, no problem.
 
Most motion detectors use infrared temperature sensing to trigger. It
stabilizes on background temperatures. When a warm object moves into
it's range it senses the temperature rise and triggers the rest of the
circuit. Very doubtful your issue has anything to do with the
earthquake. Some not all have some kind of sensitivity adjustment.
More likely it is due to age more than anything.
 
Replace with a better model(one that has adj.)
 
Good Luck!!
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 12 updates in 3 topics

Mike S <mscir@yahoo.com>: May 21 08:14PM -0700

On 5/20/2020 11:00 PM, Charlie+ wrote:
>> Mike
 
> Poundland cheap £1 Battery bank - they use USB small board to charge and
> have BM you can use with 18650 or smaller Li cel - it doesnt matter. C+
 
Thanks!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XnG86QMxGqw
eclectiktronikmail@gmail.com: May 21 02:50PM -0700

On Monday, 20 April 2020 17:39:10 UTC+2, John Robertson wrote:
> > Wow! I just got back on Usenet after literally 18+ years and it's great
> > to see this is one of the last text groups still active with real people
> > talking! Good to see Sam Goldwasser and others still on here.
 
Likewise. This is the first time I've been on here for at least a decade!
regards, b.
John Larkin <jlarkin@highland_atwork_technology.com>: May 21 10:33AM -0700

On Sun, 17 May 2020 14:15:31 -0000 (UTC), Cursitor Doom
>Is it feasible to remove the whiskers by this sort of method or any other?
 
>Thanks,
 
>CD
 
Does anyone still make ge transistors? I can't think of any use for
them.
 
The only production ge devices I know of (excepting SiGe) are back
diodes, which I think are the only germanium parts fabricated using
lithography.
 
--
 
John Larkin Highland Technology, Inc
picosecond timing precision measurement
 
jlarkin att highlandtechnology dott com
http://www.highlandtechnology.com
DecadentLinuxUserNumeroUno@decadence.org: May 21 06:09PM

John Larkin <jlarkin@highland_atwork_technology.com> wrote in
 
>>CD
 
> Does anyone still make ge transistors? I can't think of any use
> for them.
 
General Electric? Hehehe.. You mean Ge as in Germanium.
 
https://spectrum.ieee.org/semiconductors/materials/germanium-can-take-
transistors-where-silicon-cant
 
 
> The only production ge devices I know of (excepting SiGe) are back
> diodes, which I think are the only germanium parts fabricated
> using lithography.
 
https://www.americanradiohistory.com/Archive-Catalogs/GE/GE-Transistor-
Manual-No.-5---1960.CV01.pdf
Phil Hobbs <pcdhSpamMeSenseless@electrooptical.net>: May 21 02:12PM -0400

On 2020-05-21 13:33, John Larkin wrote:
 
> The only production ge devices I know of (excepting SiGe) are back
> diodes, which I think are the only germanium parts fabricated using
> lithography.
 
Ge makes good photodiodes for some uses. They're very leaky, but if you
make the epi thin enough, they can cover 350-1800 nm, which otherwise
requires expensive stacked-die devices. Garden-variety ones are more
like ordinary InGaAs, i.e. 800-1800 nm, which is much less interesting.
 
Cheers
 
Phil Hobbs
 
--
Dr Philip C D Hobbs
Principal Consultant
ElectroOptical Innovations LLC / Hobbs ElectroOptics
Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics
Briarcliff Manor NY 10510
 
http://electrooptical.net
http://hobbs-eo.com
DecadentLinuxUserNumeroUno@decadence.org: May 21 06:13PM

John Larkin <jlarkin@highland_atwork_technology.com> wrote in
 
> The only production ge devices I know of (excepting SiGe) are back
> diodes, which I think are the only germanium parts fabricated
> using lithography.
 
Also as a side note to the title of this entire thread...
 
'Vintage transistors' were NOT 'tin plated' like todays parts are.
They were Nickel Cadmium plated. A far superior plating but with
carcinogenic dangers that caused Cadmium and Cadmium alloys to be
banned. But you can still buy, eat and die from Beryllium parts.
DecadentLinuxUserNumeroUno@decadence.org: May 21 06:16PM

Phil Hobbs <pcdhSpamMeSenseless@electrooptical.net> wrote in
> much less interesting.
 
> Cheers
 
> Phil Hobbs
 
https://iopscience.iop.org/article/10.7567/JJAPS.14S1.57
John Larkin <jlarkin@highland_atwork_technology.com>: May 21 01:39PM -0700

On Thu, 21 May 2020 14:12:43 -0400, Phil Hobbs
>like ordinary InGaAs, i.e. 800-1800 nm, which is much less interesting.
 
>Cheers
 
>Phil Hobbs
 
Our FLIR has a germanium lens.
 
https://www.dropbox.com/s/uda77g9w66x3u9f/Flir_E45_WA_Lens.JPG?raw=1
 
 
 
--
 
John Larkin Highland Technology, Inc
picosecond timing precision measurement
 
jlarkin att highlandtechnology dott com
http://www.highlandtechnology.com
Phil Hobbs <pcdhSpamMeSenseless@electrooptical.net>: May 21 05:20PM -0400


>> Cheers
 
>> Phil Hobbs
 
> https://iopscience.iop.org/article/10.7567/JJAPS.14S1.57
 
That's a thin-film bolometer, similar in general character to the ones
used in modern uncooled microbolometer cameras. Compared with
visible/NIR photodiodes, they're slow and very insensitive, but they
sure do have a wide wavelength range.
 
20 years ago I built an interesting system called "Footprints" that I've
discussed here a few times over the years. It used an array of 96
carbon-ink pixels screen-printed on a 9-um thick free-standing film of
PVDF (which is basically fluorinated Saran Wrap). The pixels were 3 x 5
mm on a 6-mm pitch, to leave room for the wiring. The readout
multiplexer was a single red display LED per pixel.
 
Diodes ideally conduct in only one direction. The particular LEDs I
used leaked less than 50 fA between -5V and +0.5V bias. Interfacing
them to an AC-only sensor such as a pyoelectric requires a bit of bias
current, which in my gizmo was supplied by four green display LEDs,
which allowed the processor to adjust the average bias current between 0
and about 5 pA per LED.
 
The optical system was a moulded Fresnel lens made out of HDPE
(bleach-bottle plastic).
 
When it was done, it had very competitive sensitivity: noise equivalent
delta-T of just over 0.1 K, not bad for something so minimalistic.
 
We tried licensing it, but couldn't because the parts cost was too low.
 
Cheers
 
Phil Hobbs
 
--
Dr Philip C D Hobbs
Principal Consultant
ElectroOptical Innovations LLC / Hobbs ElectroOptics
Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics
Briarcliff Manor NY 10510
 
http://electrooptical.net
http://hobbs-eo.com
Phil Hobbs <pcdhSpamMeSenseless@electrooptical.net>: May 21 05:26PM -0400

On 2020-05-21 16:39, John Larkin wrote:
 
>> Phil Hobbs
 
> Our FLIR has a germanium lens.
 
> https://www.dropbox.com/s/uda77g9w66x3u9f/Flir_E45_WA_Lens.JPG?raw=1
 
Germanium makes really good IR lenses. Besides the built-in filtering
action, it has a refractive index of 4. The optical power of a given
surface is (n-1)/r, where n is the index and r is the radius.
 
Glass is generally around n = 1.5-1.8, so a Ge lens of a given power has
4-6 times the radius of curvature. Aberrations are much reduced due to
the weaker curvature, so a simpler lens can have better performance.
Also of course the diffraction spot size goes like lambda, so in terms
of the diffraction limit a Ge lens at 10 um is like 100 times easier to
design than a glass lens at 500 nm.
 
Cheers
 
Phil Hobbs
 
--
Dr Philip C D Hobbs
Principal Consultant
ElectroOptical Innovations LLC / Hobbs ElectroOptics
Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics
Briarcliff Manor NY 10510
 
http://electrooptical.net
http://hobbs-eo.com
Phil Hobbs <pcdhSpamMeSenseless@electrooptical.net>: May 21 05:29PM -0400

On 2020-05-21 17:26, Phil Hobbs wrote:
> Also of course the diffraction spot size goes like lambda, so in terms
> of the diffraction limit a Ge lens at 10 um is like 100 times easier to
> design than a glass lens at 500 nm.
 
Oh, and the dispersion of Ge out in the thermal IR is much less than
glass in the visible, so you don't even need to achromatize it. The
tempcos of index and of optical path length are quite large, so you do
need to athermalize in general, something that's rarely required in the
visible.
 
Cheers
 
Phil Hobbs
 
 
--
Dr Philip C D Hobbs
Principal Consultant
ElectroOptical Innovations LLC / Hobbs ElectroOptics
Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics
Briarcliff Manor NY 10510
 
http://electrooptical.net
http://hobbs-eo.com
John Larkin <jlarkin@highland_atwork_technology.com>: May 21 02:49PM -0700

On Thu, 21 May 2020 17:26:09 -0400, Phil Hobbs
>design than a glass lens at 500 nm.
 
>Cheers
 
>Phil Hobbs
 
That lens stays in focus up to the point it touches a part. It will
clearly show the hot spot on an 0603 resistor.
 
Here's a tiny dual transistor,
 
https://www.dropbox.com/s/dd072w1z2gmfpbt/Dual_NPN.jpg?raw=1
 
obviously two separate chips inside.
 
--
 
John Larkin Highland Technology, Inc
picosecond timing precision measurement
 
jlarkin att highlandtechnology dott com
http://www.highlandtechnology.com
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 3 updates in 2 topics

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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 7 updates in 3 topics

Cursitor Doom <cd@not4mail.com>: May 19 05:43PM

On Mon, 18 May 2020 05:43:18 -0700, abrsvc wrote:
 
> may have been used to test something). Send me your address and I'll
> send them along if you think that these will resolve your problem. I
> doubt that I will ever use these.
 
Thanks for the advice and offers of parts, guys; much appreciated. On
reflection I decided to replace with silicon. The purists would go to the
trouble of hollowing out the old transitors and fitting the silicons
inside them. Fortunately, I'm no purist. :-D
Brian Gregory <void-invalid-dead-dontuse@gmail.com>: May 19 09:21PM +0100

On 18/05/2020 12:59, Adrian Tuddenham wrote:
> I have had some success with an Eddystone EB35 by replacing them with
> silicon transistors and adjusting the base bias to get approximately the
> same collector current.
 
And if something starts oscillating because you have too much gain with
the silicon replacements then adding a low value R in series with their
emitters will usually fix.
 
--
Brian Gregory (in England).
abrsvc <dansabrservices@yahoo.com>: May 19 05:23PM -0700

On Tuesday, May 19, 2020 at 1:43:26 PM UTC-4, Cursitor Doom wrote:
> reflection I decided to replace with silicon. The purists would go to the
> trouble of hollowing out the old transitors and fitting the silicons
> inside them. Fortunately, I'm no purist. :-D
 
 
No problems here. If you want to use the ECGs to verify that everything works prior to "upgrading" to Si, the parts are available. These are small enough that they will fit into a small padded envelope, so shipping will be next to nothing.
 
Let me know if you want them (no charge).
Dan
Cursitor Doom <cd@not4mail.com>: May 20 12:42PM

On Tue, 19 May 2020 17:23:37 -0700, abrsvc wrote:
 
> shipping will be next to nothing.
 
> Let me know if you want them (no charge).
> Dan
 
Thanks Dan, much appreciated.
adrian@poppyrecords.invalid.invalid (Adrian Tuddenham): May 20 03:40PM +0100


> And if something starts oscillating because you have too much gain with
> the silicon replacements then adding a low value R in series with their
> emitters will usually fix.
 
There are already emitter resistors, but they are bypassed, so adding
resistance in series with the bypass capacitors (or removing them
altogether) would be the way to go.
 
I used fairly mundane silicon transistors with a lowish cutoff frequency
and didn't have any trouble.
 
 
--
~ Adrian Tuddenham ~
(Remove the ".invalid"s and add ".co.uk" to reply)
www.poppyrecords.co.uk
Mike S <mscir@yahoo.com>: May 20 12:00AM -0700

I have a pair of Even h3 headphones that had a short to ground on the
positive Voltage supply. The battery has a small circuit board attached
to the terminals, similar battery ct's state "built-in battery
protection circuit module PMC" for overcharging, overdischarging and
short circuit protection. I think the circuit got stressed from being
shorted to ground for too long too many times because the battery has
3.5 V after a short charge (connecting 4.5V directly to the terminals),
but the output voltage from the circuit board is anywhere from 0 to 0.5Vdc.
 
I'm looking at charging modules on ebay since this is a simple problem
and cheaper than a battery, can anyone recommend a charger module
they've had good luck with?
 
These looks good to my inexperienced eye, but they're stated to be for
an 18650 battery, I have a small flat battery, I don't know if this
matters.
 
high current (3A) version
5V USB 1S 3.7V Lipo Lithium Li-ion 18650 Battery Charging Board Charger
Module
https://www.ebay.com/itm/5V-USB-1S-3-7V-Lipo-Lithium-Li-ion-18650-Battery-Charging-Board-Charger-Module/191992007388?hash=item2cb39d8adc:m:mTJtSiEYqIJd4lTEvZWK95w
 
lower current version
USB 1S 3.7v 4.2v Lithium Lipo Li-ion 18650 Battery Charging Board
Charger Module
https://www.ebay.com/itm/USB-1S-3-7v-4-2v-Lithium-Lipo-Li-ion-18650-Battery-Charging-Board-Charger-Module/152734465560?epid=17006867994&hash=item238faefe18:g:NMQAAOSwvSxau44y
 
My battery is similar to this, same 503040 battery but different ct. board.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/503040-3-7v-Battery-600mAh-for-SkyBell-HD-Doorbell-Camera-Bluetooth-Headphones/193133417570
 
TIA
Mike
Andrew Way <andrewwayconstruction@gmail.com>: May 19 11:36AM -0700

Hi there,
I have a working 315M DPSS laser, with the controller, power supply, and a weird autostart dongle without the ready light...
I am trying holography again (thanks Fred unterseher) in my livingroom with this new laser, but I think it may be having trouble stabilizing...?
It starts up just fine, but when I run it though the interferometer it performs this "breathing" routine, where the fringe pattern moves a little in a regular manner every 3-4 seconds, contracting in. I have eliminated the possibility of table, pump, or fan movement- as my other cheapo chinesium diode laser settles just fine in no time. (I converted the 315M-100 to water cooling, but the weird fringe behavior persists even with the pump off for 15 mins).
I have tried the recommendations in the laser faq for this model, DC voltage is good/stable, checked all ribbon cable conn's (visually, as i'd hate to brick it by poking around with a multimeter). I have also tried adjusting the pot down for a lower current/power setting to no avail- it resets and takes its 6mins to find a new stable setting, but the fringes never settle.
I do not have a oscilloscope or power meter handy as of yet, but it seems to be stuck in a loop. Any suggestions would be appreciated!
-Roo
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 6 updates in 4 topics

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: May 18 10:25AM -0700

>rotate, etc.? I have solid core multi-strand wire I can peel from a
>ribbon cable, but I'm concerned that the metal will fatigue and break at
>the bend points.
 
Check if the wire is a single insulated wire, two insulated wires
twisted to gether, or shielded coaxial cable.
 
Ribbon cable is probably to large and stiff. Instead, I suggest
disassembling an audio phono cable, mouse cable, or computer serial
cable for suitable wire.
 
This might help:
"Soldering Headphones And Enamel Wire"
<https://hackaday.com/2016/11/22/iron-tips-soldering-headphones-and-enamel-wire/>
 
If you end up with something that is difficult to solder, try wrapping
one strand of fine wire around the end of the wire and tin it with as
little solder as possible. That should be both stronger and easier to
handle.
 
--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
Mike S <mscir@yahoo.com>: May 18 08:28PM -0700

On 5/18/2020 10:25 AM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
> one strand of fine wire around the end of the wire and tin it with as
> little solder as possible. That should be both stronger and easier to
> handle.
Thank you Jeff Layman and Jeff Liebermann,
 
The current wire is single strand insulated.
 
I'll scavenge something to find suitable wire, and the soldering advice
is definitely useful.
 
Best Regards
Mike
Kirk M <kmath50@gmail.com>: May 18 10:54AM -0700

On Monday, April 20, 2020 at 9:39:10 AM UTC-6, John Robertson wrote:
> (604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
> www.flippers.com
> "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."
 
I am glad as well. Back in the 1990's and 2000's, I used Usenet groups all the time. Most of the ones that are used are no longer active.
Kirk M <kmath50@gmail.com>: May 18 10:52AM -0700

I have a four-year old Panasonic Blu Ray player. It only has a single HDMI connector for connection to a TV.
 
There is a "CC" button on the remote. When a play a Blu Ray or DVD, for a recent movie, there is no closed captioning. It doesn't seem to matter how closed captioning is configured using the button on the remote.
 
Is there no closed captioning, even if it can be selected from the Blu Ray main menu?
 
As a hearing-impaired person, I really need to be able to use closed captioning. Are newer players better at providing this capability?
 
Regards,
 
KM
three_jeeps <jjhudak@gmail.com>: May 18 10:33AM -0700

On Thursday, May 14, 2020 at 3:30:37 PM UTC-4, abrsvc wrote:
 
> Any assistance would be appreciated.
 
> Dan
 
> ABR Services
 
It is a Microchip CPU F6091, not a fuse, although in your situation it may have acted as such. ;)
Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: May 18 12:40PM -0500

On 5/18/20 12:33 PM, three_jeeps wrote:
> It is a Microchip CPU F6091, not a fuse, although in your
> situation it may have acted as such.;)
 
For the win.
 
--
"I am a river to my people."
Jeff-1.0
WA6FWi
http:foxsmercantile.com
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