Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 1 update in 1 topic

Mike S <mscir@yahoo.com>: Oct 29 09:59PM -0700

On 10/25/2021 9:53 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
> ground to ground is not going to do anything useful.
 
> More than you probably wanted to know on electrical grounding:
> <https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ground_and_neutral>
 
Thanks, that was a good read, I never knew the "difference".
 
This was interesting,
 
"The current drawn by non-linear loads, such as fluorescent & HID
lighting and electronic equipment containing switching power supplies,
often contains harmonics. Triplen harmonic currents (odd multiples of
the third harmonic) are additive, resulting in more current in the
shared neutral conductor than in any of the phase conductors. In the
absolute worst case, the current in the shared neutral conductor can be
triple that in each phase conductor."
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 5 updates in 1 topic

"Peter W." <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Oct 25 10:53AM -0700

> Induction perhaps? Those LED "filaments" form a 1 turn loop of 60
> LED's in series. A lightning strike nearby could create enough of a
> field to blow out the bulbs.
 
I would agree with this, but for the fact that the failure modes were not uniform.
 
Some began blinking at turn-on.
Two cracked the glass envelope - neatly at the base.
Some just never lit.
Some got intermittent dark spots on the filaments.
 
My best guess is that there is some sort of driver element(s) in the base that were affected.... When I am back on my feet, reliably, I will slit one with the Dremel and see what gives.
 
Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Oct 25 02:54PM -0700

On Mon, 25 Oct 2021 10:53:28 -0700 (PDT), "Peter W."
>> LED's in series. A lightning strike nearby could create enough of a
>> field to blow out the bulbs.
 
>I would agree with this, but for the fact that the failure modes were not uniform.
 
LED's and diodes usually fail by shorting out. Once one diode is
shorted, the current increases causing the next diode in the string to
short. This continues until the current is high enough the blow up a
thin wire or trace, usually in the base. If you have a microscope
handy, you can possibly visually distinguish between the good and
shorted diodes.
 
>Some began blinking at turn-on.
 
Current regulator device or circuit might be oscillating.
<https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/LED_filament>
"The simple capacitive or resistive dropper power supply used by some
cheaper bulbs will cause some flickering..."
 
>Two cracked the glass envelope - neatly at the base.
 
The glass envelope is sealed. Sudden rise in internal gas pressure
might cause the envelope to explode.
 
>Some just never lit.
 
Simulated a fuse?
 
>Some got intermittent dark spots on the filaments.
 
I have some bad guesses for what caused that. Maybe later.
 
>My best guess is that there is some sort of driver element(s) in the base that were affected.... When I am back on my feet, reliably, I will slit one with the Dremel and see what gives.
 
Autopsy. Some design details here:
<https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/LED_filament#Design>
<https://patents.google.com/patent/US8400051>
 
--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
PO Box 272 http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Ben Lomond CA 95005-0272
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
Mike S <mscir@yahoo.com>: Oct 25 09:09PM -0700

On 10/25/2021 2:54 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
> <https://patents.google.com/patent/US8400051>
 
>> Peter Wieck
>> Melrose Park, PA
 
Interesting discussion, I'm looking fwd to followups. I looked around
online a little but and nobody I read seemed to think a lightning
arrestor on the neutral would be of any use, but I don't know myself,
here to learn.
Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Oct 25 09:53PM -0700

>online a little but and nobody I read seemed to think a lightning
>arrestor on the neutral would be of any use, but I don't know myself,
>here to learn.
 
Where would you ground or connect such a lightning arrestor? The
neutral (white) wire is always connected to earth (green) ground at
the main electrical panel. Installing a lightning arrestor across
ground to ground is not going to do anything useful.
 
More than you probably wanted to know on electrical grounding:
<https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ground_and_neutral>
 
 
--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
PO Box 272 http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Ben Lomond CA 95005-0272
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
KenW <ken1943@invalid.net>: Oct 26 06:30AM -0600

On Mon, 25 Oct 2021 21:53:44 -0700, Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>
wrote:
 
>ground to ground is not going to do anything useful.
 
>More than you probably wanted to know on electrical grounding:
><https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ground_and_neutral>
In my first home an arrestor ? was installed in the electric panel
when I updated to 200amp service. 30 +/- years ago.
 
 
KenW
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 1 update in 1 topic

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Oct 24 10:36AM -0700

On Sun, 24 Oct 2021 08:50:53 -0700 (PDT), "Peter W."
 
>One more thing: Every single string-filament LED in the house got fried - those that were in the chandeliers, not the spares, that is. As we found out yesterday when the kids and grands were over for dinner. No small thing, as there are 26 in the dining room, 16 in the center-hall, and 12 in the library.
 
>They look like this - in various wattages: https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/7175z+CxhXL._AC_SL1420_.jpg
 
>How, I do not know, unless the strike came down the neutral as well as the cable - not impossible. They were all turned off, of course.
 
Induction perhaps? Those LED "filaments" form a 1 turn loop of 60
LED's in series. A lightning strike nearby could create enough of a
field to blow out the bulbs. In a 60 LED series string (E12), only
one LED needs to open in order to kill the bulb. The chandeliers have
all the bulbs in parallel, so they all get the same overvoltage spike.
The loop is typically completed by a light dimmer with MOV overvoltage
protection, but I suspect it isn't necessary if the house wiring to
the chandelier is long enough.
 
Just a guess because we don't get much lightning on the left coast so
I have little experience with lightning.
 
--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
PO Box 272 http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Ben Lomond CA 95005-0272
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 1 update in 1 topic

"Peter W." <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Oct 24 08:50AM -0700

One more thing: Every single string-filament LED in the house got fried - those that were in the chandeliers, not the spares, that is. As we found out yesterday when the kids and grands were over for dinner. No small thing, as there are 26 in the dining room, 16 in the center-hall, and 12 in the library.
 
They look like this - in various wattages: https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/7175z+CxhXL._AC_SL1420_.jpg
 
How, I do not know, unless the strike came down the neutral as well as the cable - not impossible. They were all turned off, of course.
 
Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 4 updates in 2 topics

legg <legg@nospam.magma.ca>: Oct 22 01:34PM -0400

On Fri, 22 Oct 2021 06:48:21 -0700 (PDT), E <eric_wong38@hotmail.com>
wrote:
 
>FU9024N
 
IRFU9024N
 
RL
E <eric_wong38@hotmail.com>: Oct 22 11:08AM -0700

On Friday, October 22, 2021 at 12:32:53 PM UTC-5, legg wrote:
 
> >FU9024N
 
> IRFU9024N
 
> RL
 
Hi Legg,
 
Thank you for your helping. My LCD monitor will back to life again soon.
 
Eric
legg <legg@nospam.magma.ca>: Oct 22 10:33PM -0400

On Fri, 22 Oct 2021 11:08:53 -0700 (PDT), E <eric_wong38@hotmail.com>
wrote:
 
 
>Hi Legg,
 
>Thank you for your helping. My LCD monitor will back to life again soon.
 
>Eric
 
Sometimes just the checking the electrolytic caps is enough.
 
RL
bruce bowser <bruce2bowser@gmail.com>: Oct 22 11:02AM -0700

On this one, I wonder if a guy was even up there?
-- https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7Sr8EzXBvqM
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 2 updates in 1 topic

E <eric_wong38@hotmail.com>: Oct 22 06:48AM -0700

Hi,
 
I am looking for a (I think it is MosFet) with part number mark on the component as follow:
 
First line: FU9024N
Second line: I(diode symbol)R330A IR330A
Third line: 7F 17
 
I think it is made from International Rectifier and the component number is IR330A. Unfortunately, I could not find any information on this component. Could someone help to locate this component? If the component, if there any substitute component?
 
Thanks a lot for help.
 
Eric
"Peter W." <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Oct 22 07:13AM -0700

https://www.alldatasheet.net/view_datasheet.jsp?Searchword=IR330&sField=1
 
https://www.transistormosfet.com/transistor?search=IR330
 
https://www.adafruit.com/product/355
 
Several packages available - not sure which you need.
 
Hope this may help.
 
Peter Wieck
Melrose Park. PA
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 13 updates in 5 topics

Michael Terrell <terrell.michael.a@gmail.com>: Oct 06 11:06PM -0700

On Wednesday, October 6, 2021 at 4:21:31 PM UTC-4, Peter W. wrote:
> > Peter, I've noticed that Jeff Angus hasn't posted lately. Any idea why?
> Alive and well, still in Ranger, TX.
 
Thanks, I was getting a bit concerned about him. He stopped replying to me when Hillary lost the election, so it wasn't worth the time for me to try to contact him.
Michael Terrell <terrell.michael.a@gmail.com>: Oct 05 09:46AM -0700

On Monday, October 4, 2021 at 12:15:29 PM UTC-4, Peter W. wrote:
> We need to understand the purpose of this group - which is to give the most complicated and unsuitable possible solution to the simplest request entirely without reference to common sense, life-safety or cost.
 
Peter, I've noticed that Jeff Angus hasn't posted lately. Any idea why?
"Peter W." <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Oct 06 01:21PM -0700

> Peter, I've noticed that Jeff Angus hasn't posted lately. Any idea why?
 
Alive and well, still in Ranger, TX.
 
Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
John Doe <always.look@message.header>: Oct 05 08:59PM

Google Groups spam...
 
--
Edward Hernandez <dtgamer99@gmail.com>: Oct 06 04:08AM

The John Doe troll stated the following in message-id
 
> The troll doesn't even know how to format a USENET post...
 
And the John Doe troll stated the following in message-id
<sg3kr7$qt5$1@dont-email.me>:
 
> The reason Bozo cannot figure out how to get Google to keep from
> breaking its lines in inappropriate places is because Bozo is
> CLUELESS...
 
And yet, the clueless John Doe troll has itself posted yet another
incorrectly formatted USENET posting on Tue, 5 Oct 2021 20:59:14 -0000
(UTC) in message-id <sjieb2$1a2$1@dont-email.me>.
 
mHD3cOq7pa9A
Rosana Mendes <rosanamendes1306@gmail.com>: Oct 05 08:40AM -0700

Em sexta-feira, 6 de agosto de 2021 às 16:43:23 UTC-3, martin kyatuur escreveu:
> Hearing you soon
> Thanks
> martin
 
 
Can you send me a solution manual of Albert Malvino 8th edition Electronic Principle thanks
Rosana Mendes <rosanamendes1306@gmail.com>: Oct 05 08:42AM -0700

Solution Manual Electronic Principles (8th Ed., Albert Malvino, David Bates)
legg <legg@nospam.magma.ca>: Oct 06 02:32PM -0400

On Wed, 6 Oct 2021 09:41:11 -0700 (PDT), "ohg...@gmail.com"
 
>If you remove the IPM from the board and turn it over, you'll probably find the bottom is open but potted in clear snot. Careful visual inspection will reveal one or more blown open gates. Because I couldn't find a reliable source of IPMs, I started "repairing" them in a way. I used to isolate the bad mosfets from the IPM's ceramic circuit board and mount external ones to the underside of the heatsink, then wire them into the board. Here's a pic of the diagram I drew: https://i.imgur.com/TmQbULi.jpg
 
>I used mosfets and they worked fine, but they did run hot so I always added a fan directly on the heatsink. Even when brand new, these ran stupidly hot anyway so even when I was able to source new boards or IPMs, I always added a fan to both sustain boards to prevent call backs.
 
>The sustain boards are double sided, so removing the IPMs is a bit of a problem. I always preheated the boards and added liquid flux before attempting to suck the solder out of the holes.
 
If you refer to the assumed switch configuration you'll see that
the IPM has no connection to the only negative supply rail - its
output is actually prevented from going negative by D14.
 
If you refer to the output waveform, you'll see the IPM doing its
think in the waveform's preliminary hash, where it switches
quickly between Vs and gound. There are no other switches that
can do this, except for those in the IPM.
 
There were no blown fuses on this board, and the IPM shows
highZ/bodyVf diode readings on the pins for SUS_OUT, VS and GND,
when lifted. I had no trouble desoldering the IPM using a normal
iron, one pin at a time, for removal. It has a solid black epoxy
body - part number SPI-42X39090-2. The Y_SUS PCB is 3-layer.
 
One of the 3 paralleled external fets had avalanched and gone
resistive between gate and drain to overload -VY. With this was
fixed, the buffer board seemed to pump -VY more negative than
its regulated -200V, increasing to -250V or more to put the
parallel fets into danger of avalanche). A new buffer board
prevented this.
 
The external heatsunk mosfets DO get hot. The two parts ID'd as
900V operate in their linear mode to develop the ramps, using a
miller-cap/diode network between gate and drain. These two slopes
are visible on the sick puppy's panel drive waveforms.
 
I suppose that if the SUS_UP slope was slower and continuous,
then a ~ book waveform could be created, using the end of
drive period as the SUS-DN, per older 'return to -VY' methods.
 
The book timing (40us/div) suggests that SUS-UP and SUS_DN are
expected to complete in ~ (+)100us (-)80us time periods.
Sick puppy's SUS_UP (50us/div) is too quick. The components in
the 900V part's set-up miller network seem to be OK individually.
Maybe if it was slower, the waveform might magically turn into
a single pulse, rather than a double one. . . . . ?
 
RL
 
Still don't know why the buffer test point doesnt follow SUS_OUT.
 
I'm working with a dark screen - a few pin-pricks of colour
visible in a dark room.
 
RL
"ohg...@gmail.com" <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Oct 06 09:41AM -0700

On Tuesday, October 5, 2021 at 8:31:15 PM UTC-4, legg wrote:
> low, even outside of the drive period - simply bleeds
> down to 0V, as illustrated.
 
> RL
 
If it still has some sort of picture, you probably blew the IPM under the big heatsink on the Z sustain module (right side). It should have blown one of the two 4A fuses on the board in any case, so check the fuses on both sustains. The IPMs are hard to find. I used to buy them in bulk out of China, but they were hit or miss: some were pulls, some worked, some didn't.
 
If you remove the IPM from the board and turn it over, you'll probably find the bottom is open but potted in clear snot. Careful visual inspection will reveal one or more blown open gates. Because I couldn't find a reliable source of IPMs, I started "repairing" them in a way. I used to isolate the bad mosfets from the IPM's ceramic circuit board and mount external ones to the underside of the heatsink, then wire them into the board. Here's a pic of the diagram I drew: https://i.imgur.com/TmQbULi.jpg
 
I used mosfets and they worked fine, but they did run hot so I always added a fan directly on the heatsink. Even when brand new, these ran stupidly hot anyway so even when I was able to source new boards or IPMs, I always added a fan to both sustain boards to prevent call backs.
 
The sustain boards are double sided, so removing the IPMs is a bit of a problem. I always preheated the boards and added liquid flux before attempting to suck the solder out of the holes.
legg <legg@nospam.magma.ca>: Oct 05 08:33PM -0400

An older and poorly-documented plasma screen (LG 42PC3DV)
apparently went 'pop' and developed dark screen.
 
It had the usual bad 5V rail caps (x9) of the era (mfrd 6 months
in 2006), and an overloaded -VY rail. I fixed those issues, to
discover that Y_SUS waveform had no 'set-down' ramp.
 
The mosfet generating that ramp can and does produce a -ramp, but
only at the termination of the panel drive waveform, not within
it. There is no gate drive signal, at the right time, to produce
this ramp.
 
It's complicated by the fact that models subsequent to this put
zero volts across the panel outside of the drive period - up to
that time the panel rested at -VY in most models.
 
There are, of course, no schematics. The service manual includes
only a module disassembly diagram and some vague flow charts.
 
There are 'Troubleshooting' and 'Training' manuals for different
models of the era, none of which include schematics of the
power train or drivers, just the signal processing cctry.
None have the same connectorization, harnessing, test point
nomenclature/position.
 
I'm counting on a 50PC1DR or 60PC1D training manual to give
display waveforms for a 'return to -VY' system.
There's a 42PC5DC, that exhibits the 'return to zero' system.
 
None of the other power semiconductors are capable of pulling
Y_SUS low - but there is no gate signal at the right time to
do so. There also seems to be no factory reset procedure for
these dinosaurs' firmware, that doesn't involve a special harness
and PC software.
 
Any ideas on getting this thing to perform?
 
It's not for me, but seems to have sentimental value for the
codger who put out kilobucks, in 2006, to own it.
 
Assumed config of major switches-
http://ve3ute.ca/query/42PC3D_Panel_Drive.jpg
 
expected waveforms of similarly functioning models-
http://ve3ute.ca/query/42PC5DC_Y_SUS_waveform.jpg
http://ve3ute.ca/query/50PC1DR_Y_SUS_waveform.jpg
 
Y_SUS of sick puppy-
http://ve3ute.ca/query/42PC3D_Y_SUS_issue_211005a.jpg
 
The scan buffer panel has been replaced once. It ~stores
the SUS_UP peak, but does not follow the Y_SUS drive
low, even outside of the drive period - simply bleeds
down to 0V, as illustrated.
 
RL
Ralph Mowery <rmowery42@charter.net>: Oct 05 01:42PM -0400

In article <lpuolg948p5oqen6jm8ddvsl9cd4t3l5m5@4ax.com>,
jeffl@cruzio.com says...
> with 2000 incoming minutes and 250 outgoing minutes included. That's
> a net savings of about $420/year. I can also switch to all cellular
> (cutting the cord) for which I alread pay $28/month.
 
I like the POTS but my bill was similar to yours for just basic service.
I Switched to internet phone and the internet together is $ 99 per month
for the basic 200 speed download. I don't upload very much so do not
care how how fast that is but do get 10 speed upload. With the
internnet phone I get lots of what would be extra on the POTS like
caller ID and long distance. I can even have it send the incomming call
to my cell phone if I do not answer the home phone.
Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Oct 05 10:03AM -0700

On Tue, 05 Oct 2021 00:01:18 -0400, Michael Trew
 
>What region is this? I've heard several people tell me, especially out
>west, that AT&T simply shut down the old ADSL out there, and resellers
>and all couldn't sell it. I live in Ohio, former Ameritech region.
 
USA, left coast, California, Santa Cruz county. I have not bothered
to investigate the extent of the "legacy DSL" shutdown. I think it's
national. Note the headline here:
<https://www.att.com/internet/dsl/>
"AT&T no longer offers DSL service"
Clicking further down the page, it offers me up to 5 Mbit/sec service
for $45/month plus taxes, equipment fees, hidden charges, and
installation if needed. Why am I not thrilled?
 
>> ADSL. In my case, it wasn't an option.
 
>I like my POTS line.. if it ever become unreliable, or the price keeps
>creeping up to an unreasonable level, I'll probably drop it.
 
I also like POTS phone lines, mostly because they're far more reliable
than anything that goes via the internet or cellular data. However,
my latest AT&T POTS bill was $41.25 for flat rate, no long distance. I
originate or receive perhaps 50 fairly short, non-telemarketting,
phone calls per month making my cost about $0.80 per valid call.
Meanwhile, I'm also paying $75/year for my former office VoIP phone
from:
<https://www.future-nine.com/plans.html> (Bare Essentials plan)
with 2000 incoming minutes and 250 outgoing minutes included. That's
a net savings of about $420/year. I can also switch to all cellular
(cutting the cord) for which I alread pay $28/month.
 
>moment.. as I was told, I can't move, change speed, etc.. but it still
>works as of now.
 
>https://www.dslreports.com/forum/r32848850-DSL-is-officially-grandfathered-Get-orders-in-BEFORE-October
 
Yep. That's not what I received from my ISP. AT&T will continue to
service legacy accounts for their AT&T customers, but not for the
CLEC's, who have equipment located in their central offices and are
leasing AT&T copper phone lines.
 
 
>"Real speed" is about 2 down on any given test. It seems to work OK on
>one device, streaming, browsing on one or two others. I doubt it could
>do much more.
 
Higher speeds (bandwidth) to have their advantages. For me, it was
the ability to do more than one thing online at a time. I can now
download a bloated Microsoft update, stream a movie (in 720p because I
have a small TV and 1080p would be a waste of bandwidth), check my
email, talk on VoIP or Zoom, etc all at the same time. 56Mbits/sec
download, 6Mbits/sec upload. I've tried to overload the bandwidth and
found it somewhat difficult because most (not all) of the streaming
and video programs have some form of adaptive bandwidth management.
Also, I use my routers QoS (quality of service also known as bandwidth
management) settings to all the real-time stuff (mostly VoIP) to have
priority. If you only do one thing at a time online, 2Mbits/sec might
be adequate. 1.5Mbits/sec was adequate for me for about 20 years.
However, if you're into multitasking your life, more bandwidth is a
necessity.
 
--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
PO Box 272 http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Ben Lomond CA 95005-0272
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
Jerry <Jerry@JerryThinks.com>: Oct 17 01:03PM -0700

Is there any way to easily measure signal strength of a wireless client
bridge?
 
I have all the Android tools to measure signal strength of an access point.
But they don't seem to display the signal strength of the client bridge.
 
The client bridge was set up earlier this week by attaching an old Linksys
WRT54Gv8.1 router (which I flashed to DD-WRT and set up as a client bridge)
to an Ethernet-only old Win10 desktop (which didn't have a Wi-Fi card).
 
Sitting at the Win10 desktop (with the client bridge sitting on top of that
desktop) and logging into the Linksys DD-WRT interface shows the old Netgear
home router signal is being received by the Linksys WRT56Gv8.1 client bridge
at around -50dBm with the displayed "Signal Quality" graph coming out at
around 65%.
 
But how can I _measure_ (easily) the signal the other way around?
How can I easily measure the signal strength of the client bridge at the
home router?
 
Is there an Android or Netgear or Windows tool to measure signal quality of
the Linksys client bridge on the other end (which is back at the Netgear
WNDR3400v2 home router)?
 
Why do they give you tools only for easily measuring one side of the bridge?
 
The Netgear Advanced > Administration > Attached Devices doesn't even show
the client bridge. All it shows is the IP (and what I presume is the MAC
address) of the Win10 desktop which is attached to the client bridge.
 
But what Android or Windows tools tell us the strength of the client bridge?
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 2 updates in 1 topic

Mike S <mscir@yahoo.com>: Oct 14 07:01PM -0700

On 10/14/2021 9:12 AM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
> <https://santacruzfiber.com/watsonville>
> I probably missed a few areas, but currently nothing in SLV (Felton,
> Ben Lomond, and Boulder Creek).
 
Sorry to hear that it's not an option. I know of one case where a point
to point wireless link with some decent radios using parabolic antennas
shared high speed internet and it worked well.
Mike S <mscir@yahoo.com>: Oct 14 07:01PM -0700

On 10/14/2021 4:44 AM, Peter W. wrote:
 
> Cyberpower is the make. The unit in place was from 2009, we replaced it with a more recent model, of course.
 
> Peter Wieck
> Melrose Park, PA
 
Thanks.
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 5 updates in 2 topics

Mike S <mscir@yahoo.com>: Oct 13 05:50PM -0700

On 10/2/2021 8:39 AM, Peter W. wrote:
 
> And they protected the plasma TV and two quite nice audio systems without incident. The one on the TV has (had) an indicator stating that it must be replaced visible after the strike. Yes, it has been replaced.
 
> Peter Wieck
> Melrose Park, PA
 
What make and model were they Peter?
Mike S <mscir@yahoo.com>: Oct 13 05:56PM -0700

On 10/2/2021 8:01 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
> squirrels) Comcast stayed up for 5 and 8 hours respectively.
> Obviously, something was done to improved the situation, but nobody is
> providing useful info from either Comcast or PG&E.
 
I don't know if or when it will be provided in your area, but the Cruzio
fiber is great, both speed and latency.
"Peter W." <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Oct 14 04:44AM -0700

> What make and model were they Peter?,
 
Cyberpower is the make. The unit in place was from 2009, we replaced it with a more recent model, of course.
 
Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Oct 14 09:12AM -0700


>I don't know if or when it will be provided in your area, but the Cruzio
>fiber is great, both speed and latency.
 
I could only dream. I have friends and customers that have Cruzio
fiber or wireless. They love it. I've talked to them about the
possibility. Cruzio seems to be concentrating on high density and
urban areas, where the number of users per mile of fiber is much
higher than in the semi-rural areas of SLV (San Lorenzo Valley). In
the FAQ, it proclaims:
<https://santacruzfiber.com/faq>
What Neighborhood will get built first?
High rates of signups will move neighborhoods up in priority.
Other factors will matter, too, including how close a
neighborhood is to the fiber hub, and how many barriers are
in the way. The best way to get your neighborhood ahead in
priority is to get lots of people to tell us they're interested.
That's unlikely to happen in SLV. Even in the denser areas near SCZ,
fiber service is spotty:
<https://santacruzfiber.com/blog/rollout-progress>
I don't have a current map showing areas covered, but currently it's
downtown SCZ, Scotts Valley, several trailer parks in Live Oak, and
Watsonville:
<https://santacruzfiber.com/watsonville>
I probably missed a few areas, but currently nothing in SLV (Felton,
Ben Lomond, and Boulder Creek).
 
 
--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
PO Box 272 http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Ben Lomond CA 95005-0272
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
Michael Terrell <terrell.michael.a@gmail.com>: Oct 13 07:41PM -0700

> Config stuff seems limited. Where does the config file go on DOSBOX.
> What's the most reliable term.apk and java for this machine? There is a
> mincom apk, is there a fax program that send via a USB 56K voice/fax modem?
 
That version was released October 19, 2011, so it is no wonder it has problems. It simply can't handle modern websites. It is too old to update to current releases, as well.
Android 12 was released October 4, 2021.
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 3 updates in 2 topics

vjp2.at@at.BioStrategist.dot.dot.com: Oct 13 07:59AM

Three questions om Craig Netbook running Android 4 (Ice Cream Sandwich) The
built in browser seems like a crippled version of Chrome. Biggest problem is
it searches instead of going to URL, then it blocks stufflike walmart.
Config stuff seems limited. Where does the config file go on gDOSBOX.
What's the most reliable term.apk and java for this machine? There is a
mincom apk, is there a fax program that send via a USB 56K voice/fax modem?
 
 
--
Vasos Panagiotopoulos, Columbia'81+, Reagan, Mozart, Pindus
blog: panix.com/~vjp2/ruminatn.htm - = - web: panix.com/~vjp2/vasos.htm
facebook.com/vasjpan2 - linkedin.com/in/vasjpan02 - biostrategist.com
---{Nothing herein constitutes advice. Everything fully disclaimed.}---
Bob F <bobnospam@gmail.com>: Oct 12 04:09PM -0700

On 10/10/2021 12:18 PM, legg wrote:
>> direction, and how to locate the failing part if I am right.
 
> Can it remember settings for shorter time intervals of being off?
 
> RL
 
I was changing a setting, then powering down and back on, and the change
was gone, so it seemed the answer was no. Testing it again today with
short term power off, and it is remembering perfectly. I did not turn
off the power to it last night. I have no idea if that related to the
problem. I set the speaker size to "small" yesterday, so it will send
audio to my subwoofer, and that setting is still there today too. It is
the first time I can remember it did not go back to "large" when I had
the desire to power up the sub.
 
It has me wondering if it only saves the memory after some significant
time on after a change.
 
I will try powering it down again tonight and see if that causes changes
again.
Bob F <bobnospam@gmail.com>: Oct 12 04:51PM -0700

On 10/11/2021 5:13 AM, abrsvc wrote:
 
> I would check the service manual at the link below. There may be a capacitor used to retain the settings rather than a battery and this could be failing.
 
> Dan
 
> Link: https://elektrotanya.com/pioneer_sc-63_sc-61_sc-1227-k_sc-1222-k_rrv4324_av_receiver.pdf/download.html
 
That will take some time to explore. Thanks.
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 7 updates in 2 topics

"ohg...@gmail.com" <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Oct 11 01:19PM -0700

On Saturday, October 9, 2021 at 12:17:58 PM UTC-4, legg wrote:
 
 
> Couldn't the connections to that single pixel be disconnected,
> producing a black t on the screen, and non-popping parts?
 
> RL
 
Yes. Learned from experience. I never touched a plasma until I carefully went over the entire display, including right to the edges. A single burned pixel meant the end of the road.
 
I repaired at least a hundred of those series when I was an LG ASC. The vast majority were bad IPMs on one sustain or the other, and once in a while a bad buffer board. I don't recall ever seeing a bad control, main, or power supply.
legg <legg@nospam.magma.ca>: Oct 12 12:32AM -0400

On Mon, 11 Oct 2021 13:19:51 -0700 (PDT), "ohg...@gmail.com"
 
>> RL
 
>Yes. Learned from experience. I never touched a plasma until I carefully went over the entire display, including right to the edges. A single burned pixel meant the end of the road.
 
>I repaired at least a hundred of those series when I was an LG ASC. The vast majority were bad IPMs on one sustain or the other, and once in a while a bad buffer board. I don't recall ever seeing a bad control, main, or power supply.
 
So the bad cap plague on the PSU 5V rails didn't cross your
bench? It seemed to be reported to show up in a lot of units,
even when opened up for other issues.
 
No connector issues?
 
What were the functional symptoms at turn on for a burnt pixel,
(assuming one was missed)?
 
I'm waiting for 74AV540/541SJs for the Y_SUS, before trying to
straighten out the popping resistor issue on the buffer board.
Not sure what a burnt pixel looks like - a discoloration on
the unpowered screen?
 
What I'm worried about is anything that could result in a
repeatable chain of damage in assemblies that are working.
Don't want to kill functional IPMs.
 
RL
legg <legg@nospam.magma.ca>: Oct 12 10:10AM -0400

On Mon, 11 Oct 2021 13:19:51 -0700 (PDT), "ohg...@gmail.com"
 
>> RL
 
>Yes. Learned from experience. I never touched a plasma until I carefully went over the entire display, including right to the edges. A single burned pixel meant the end of the road.
 
>I repaired at least a hundred of those series when I was an LG ASC. The vast majority were bad IPMs on one sustain or the other, and once in a while a bad buffer board. I don't recall ever seeing a bad control, main, or power supply.
 
By, the way, a close inspection with a flashlight showed no
visible irregularities in the unpowered screen's appearance
that couldn't be removed with a damp cloth.
 
RL
legg <legg@nospam.magma.ca>: Oct 12 10:26AM -0400

On Mon, 11 Oct 2021 13:19:51 -0700 (PDT), "ohg...@gmail.com"
 
>> RL
 
>Yes. Learned from experience. I never touched a plasma until I carefully went over the entire display, including right to the edges. A single burned pixel meant the end of the road.
 
>I repaired at least a hundred of those series when I was an LG ASC. The vast majority were bad IPMs on one sustain or the other, and once in a while a bad buffer board. I don't recall ever seeing a bad control, main, or power supply.
 
I came across a service advisory for this model that
gave me a chuckle:
 
"2006 LCD, PDP, & MDPs that use the ARM CPU & Micronix Flash Memory.
 
Symptom:
 
During a specific date range the customer may turn on the TV and there
will be no video
 
or audio. The problem will first occur: Jun 20th, 2006, 14:03 ~ Jun
21st, 08:14. Then
 
it repeats every 194 days.
 
Solution:
 
Temporary fix is a hard reset (unplug for a few seconds). New firmware
is available as
 
a permanent fix. The update needs to be done by a service center.
 
Models:
 
32LC2D, 37LC2D, 42LC2D, 42PC3DV, 42PC3DVA, 42PC3D, 50PC3D, 50PX2D,
50PX2DC.
 
Tools Required:
 
Computer
 
Null Modem Serial Cable
 
Tools Supplied:
 
Instructions
 
Firmware Files
 
DTVLab Update Software
 
Versions:
 
32LC2D-UD : Ver3.06.1
 
37LC2D-UD : Ver3.06.1
 
42LC2D-UD : Ver3.05.1
 
42PC3DV-UD(42PC3DVA-UD) : Ver3.06.1
 
42PC3D-UD : Ver3.07.1
 
50PC3D-UD : Ver3.07.1
 
50PX2D-UD(50PX2DC-UD) : Ver3.10.1
 
42PC3DV-UD,42PC3DVA-UD : the same as S/W
 
50PX2D-UD,50PX2DC-UD : the same as S/W "
 
Would have thought that such an advisory would have
generated a surplus of support tools that would
remain for later employment . . . but nada.
 
RL
"ohg...@gmail.com" <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Oct 12 09:17AM -0700

On Tuesday, October 12, 2021 at 10:24:56 AM UTC-4, legg wrote:
> generated a surplus of support tools that would
> remain for later employment . . . but nada.
 
> RL
 
Honestly, I don't remember that at all. If I read that bulletin, then I forgot about it. I also don't recall ever getting complaints about that problem.
Yaseen Ansari <yaseenansari1@gmail.com>: Oct 11 02:22PM -0700

On Thursday, August 26, 2021 at 10:07:03 PM UTC-7, John Robertson wrote:
> the late 90s and early 00s, so you should be able to track it down.
 
> 12 years is not a record for oldest Usenet post responded to!
 
> John ;-#)#
 
 
Thanks John, Yes you are right, I can find DOS based programs.
Unfortunately I am limited to the option of using WINDOWS only.
I did find a programming by python tool (https://phyton.com/support/updates) window based but the splitted output file is not correct.
John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Oct 12 12:04AM -0700

On 2021/10/11 2:22 p.m., Yaseen Ansari wrote:
 
> Thanks John, Yes you are right, I can find DOS based programs.
> Unfortunately I am limited to the option of using WINDOWS only.
> I did find a programming by python tool (https://phyton.com/support/updates) window based but the splitted output file is not correct.
 
You can run DOS BOX in a Windows machine...
 
https://www.dosbox.com/
 
I use it on XP for running my old Data I/O DOS only program.
 
John :-#)#
 
--
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