Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 4 updates in 1 topic

Charles Lucas <clsnowyowl@gmail.com>: Jan 30 09:34AM -0800


> Your silly reference claims there is a spark because you left something
> on (which on modern cars is always true) but ignores that you are
> connecting a charge battery with an uncharged one.
 
OK, so I missed that. Here's one that does address the dead battery you
would be connecting the vehicle to. My apologies for missing the dead
one that is not charged. Link is below:
 
https://blog.napacanada.com/en/how-to-safely-and-quickly-recharge-a-dead-car-battery/
 
There are similar articles to connecting batteries to capacitors (which is basically what a
battery essentially is), although we're dealing with DC circuits.
 
Good Luck.
 
Charles Lucas
Bob F <bobnospam@gmail.com>: Jan 30 10:02AM -0800

On 1/30/2023 9:34 AM, Charles Lucas wrote:
> battery essentially is), although we're dealing with DC circuits.
 
> Good Luck.
 
> Charles Lucas
 
That article tells you to jump start a car, then
 
"If the battery reads below 12 volts, it's considered "discharged."
Driving around can't revive a battery below 12 volts, and attempting to
do so might damage the alternator."
 
If that is true, what has worked for practically everyone that has ever
jumped a significantly discharged battery has risked damaging the
alternator of the car used to jump it. Ever hear of that happening
without reversing the cables?
 
And driving around has worked fine for millions of people with battery
drained before jumping after they left the lights on.
 
Parts dealers web pages are highly "sales biased", like the one I saw
that claimed that wiper blades should be replaced every 6 months.
"Peter W." <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Jan 30 11:41AM -0800

This is the 94th post on the basics of separating fly-shit from pepper - oops, how to jump-start a vehicle. What we have learned:
a) this venue is proof-positive that common sense is rarer than an ethical politician or a moral evangelical preacher.
b) that this venue exists to give the most impractical, obscure, possibly dangerous advice to the mostly lazy, ignorant or otherwise challenged individuals who appear to look for and cherish such device rather than seeking it for themselves, or reaching out to organizations that actually might know.
c) that if there is an opinion - fact-based or not - there will be an equal-and-opposite opinion - fact-based or not.
d) that the posters in this venue as exemplified by the above should not be exposed to anything sharper than a rubber spoon, more powerful than a D-size battery (large enough to make swallowing it difficult), or requiring reading or understanding directions, written or otherwise.
 
https://magazine.northeast.aaa.com/daily/life/cars-trucks/jumping-a-car-battery/
 
Now, how hard was that?
 
Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
"Carlos E.R." <robin_listas@es.invalid>: Jan 30 10:42PM +0100

On 2023-01-19 02:01, Rod Speed wrote:
>> charging the battery which leads to more hydrogen gas
 
> No, because the battery doesn't gas unless it is being charged when
> fully charged already and that won't be happening with either battery.
 
The "bad" battery will start charging when connected, and there will be
no current limiting.
 
 
--
Cheers, Carlos.
You received this digest because you're subscribed to updates for this group. You can change your settings on the group membership page.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it send an email to sci.electronics.repair+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com.

Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 2 updates in 1 topic

Charles Lucas <clsnowyowl@gmail.com>: Jan 28 09:19AM -0800

On Friday, January 27, 2023 at 9:33:43 PM UTC-6, Xeno wrote:
> paint on them.
 
> > Then they said positive first.
> > Why?
 
Although the thread is rather lengthy and has been virtually exhausted,
I am going to venture out an explanation here.
 
Prevents Sparking or Arcing if in the event wires did touch. More energy
passes from the negative (anode) to the positive (cathode) side, due to
the way electrons flow, which create a potential for arcing on the positive
side. So, you go to the "stronger" or more energetic side first, then you
apply either the chassis or earth ground. It also puts less strain on the
stator and rotor on the electric motor in your alternator.
 
Follow or look up this enclosed link below. It gives details on arcing here.
 
https://getjerry.com/questions/what-are-some-reasons-why-my-car-battery-sparks-when-connecting-the-charger
 
 
 
> > They say add water to the "splash plate" but what is that?
 
> As long as the electrolyte covers the top of the cell plates, all will
> be well.
 
Accordingly, the batteries (depending upon their chemical composition
and make up) have to maintain the correct specific gravity. Most people
do not know about this, but it ties in when a chemical reaction is actually
created through the EMF of the battery during operation drawing from
each of those cells.
 
> starting the engine. Whilst ever the engine is running, the car
> electrical system is running off the alternator - hence a 14 Volt
> system. NB, alternators typically output between 13.8 and 14.2 Volts.
 
Actually, I heard about 13.5 to 13.8 Volts is common for vehicles
and traditional automobiles with regular gasoline engines. Diesel
uses up to 14.2 volts because
more power is generated through the glow plugs (and with diesel,
the pre-firing). I am not a diesel expert, but that is what I have heard.
 
 
> Ask yourself what heating water does to its volume and you'll have
> answered that question.
 
> > And what happens if you tap water instead of distilled?
 
The reaction will be slightly different chemically, but not by much, if the
specific gravity remains intact. I try to get distilled because there is by
nature less sediment in the water which reduces wear on the internal
chambers or cells in the battery and less likelihood of calcification.
 
Good Luck. Hope this helps.
 
Charles Lucas
Bob F <bobnospam@gmail.com>: Jan 28 11:42AM -0800

On 1/28/2023 9:19 AM, Charles Lucas wrote:
> stator and rotor on the electric motor in your alternator.
 
> Follow or look up this enclosed link below. It gives details on arcing here.
 
> https://getjerry.com/questions/what-are-some-reasons-why-my-car-battery-sparks-when-connecting-the-charger
 
Which says NOTHING to support your silly claim above.
 
Obviously, every time you connect anything to a car battery, there is a
positive and a negative side to that connection as you do.
 
Your silly reference claims there is a spark because you left something
on (which on modern cars is always true) but ignores that you are
connecting a charge battery with an uncharged one.
You received this digest because you're subscribed to updates for this group. You can change your settings on the group membership page.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it send an email to sci.electronics.repair+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com.

Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 1 update in 1 topic

"ohg...@gmail.com" <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Jan 27 07:50AM -0800

On Tuesday, January 24, 2023 at 10:36:36 AM UTC-5, Guy Patterson wrote:
 
> > Before restringing, get a Q-Tip/ISO and clean the drive pulley shaft and all secondary pulleys of lube or wayward graphite. If you excise all possible friction, you'll find it will tune with no dragging, jerking, or stopping even with less turns around the drive pulley than the diagram calls for (resist the temptation of adding more turns than it calls for - it only causes windup binding).
 
> > I've had people pooh-pooh this advice and end up giving me the radio to restring because they don't believe that tiny amount of friction will prevent the dial cord from grabbing.
 
 
> After reading this, a light bullb went off and I decided to pull out a troublesome Philco that has always slipped. ...... I also found the top rail of the dial binding when I pushed down on it just like you said. I used a small needle file and dressed the top edge and then sanded it smooth and rubbed in some graphite with a qtip so I wouldn't get any on the dial face and now the dial indicator pushes smooth even when I put pressure on it.....Thanks so much. I will do this with every radio I have from now on.<
 
You're certainly welcome - glad you got it fixed.
 
Yep, I've seen rough edges and even outright burrs where the dial indicator rides on the dial background. I suppose those dial backs are simple stampings, and they could have a sharp edge on them. Filing down the burr with a file and smoothing it with sandpaper was a great idea. It almost makes it a bearing surface if done properly.
 
I can't tell you how many times I've seen cranky dial indicators cause dial cord slippage because of friction between the dial and the dial background . They announce themselves when they kind of "arch up" or move in jerks when the tuning shaft is moved - they shouldn't. Once cleaned, deburred and lubed they just glide.
You received this digest because you're subscribed to updates for this group. You can change your settings on the group membership page.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it send an email to sci.electronics.repair+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com.

Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 8 updates in 3 topics

Guy Patterson <str00ntz@aol.com>: Jan 24 07:36AM -0800


> A lot of guys miss the dial indicator.. they're usually just folded metal that slide along the metal dial scale. Those things drag like you won't believe. Sometimes the dial might have a piece of folded fish paper inside as a bearing, but many don't. In any case, clean and polish the edge of the dial with an abrasive if need be to form a highly polished bearing surface. Rub some graphite into the area right where the dial slides along. Careful not to get graphite on the dial itself (unsightly).
 
> Before restringing, get a Q-Tip/ISO and clean the drive pulley shaft and all secondary pulleys of lube or wayward graphite. If you excise all possible friction, you'll find it will tune with no dragging, jerking, or stopping even with less turns around the drive pulley than the diagram calls for (resist the temptation of adding more turns than it calls for - it only causes windup binding).
 
> I've had people pooh-pooh this advice and end up giving me the radio to restring because they don't believe that tiny amount of friction will prevent the dial cord from grabbing.
 
 
Thank you!! After reading this, a light bullb went off and I decided to pull out a troublesome Philco that has always slipped. I had some guys at Kutztown restring it about 5 years ago and it worked for a few days and started slipping again, so I stopped using it. Nothing more frustrating than trying to change the station or even tweaking the tuning as it drifts after an hour of use. They put on some liquid which was probably rosin and it worked great at the table. Too bad it didn't last. You were right about the pulleys. With the dial string removed they spun freely but putting either a little side pressure or up pressure on them where they might butt up against the peened top made them stiffen right up. That is probably why the heavier the spring I tried the worse it got. I used the wide end of a flat toothpick to tap in a bit of graphite moly powder i had kicking around from Pinewood derby between the pulleys and the shafts, and now the pulleys spin easily even when I side load them. I also found the top rail of the dial binding when I pushed down on it just like you said. I used a small needle file and dressed the top edge and then sanded it smooth and rubbed in some graphite with a qtip so I wouldn't get any on the dial face and now the dial indicator pushes smooth even when I put pressure on it. The tuner itself seemed free but I added a couple of drops of light synthetic oil to the bearings anyway. My Philco now tunes like butter and I can even put my thumb on the big tuner pulley and it still pulls the tuner through. I can now tune and fine tune this radio for the first time ever. Thanks so much. I will do this with every radio I have from now on.
RonTheGuy <ron@null.invalid>: Jan 23 09:33AM -0800

2-car garage door won't open but five inches under certain circumstances.
Closes just fine.
 
However
(1) If I open from the inside wall switch, it always opens.
(2) But if I open from the remote control, it often stops after 5 inches.
 
You'd think it's the remote but when I use the outside remote that is
mounted to the wall, it does the same thing, so it's not the remote per se.
 
Replaced the remote batteries anyway.
Same thing.
 
The springs are big fat dual springs, which are about five years old or so.
If they're "sagging", I don't see any physical evidence of that weakening.
 
There was an original red paint line which the manufacturer painted onto
the unwound spring which is now a spiral when wound, understandably so.
 
I had painted a thin white line across the wound springs when they were
installed and that line doesn't appear to have moved. It's still straight.
 
I air blasted the rollers and track and greased but it made little to no
difference and I cleaned the mechanism inside the garage door opener.
 
What appears to be what's happening is the garage door opener, which has to
be twenty years old if not older, is suddenly "needing" more time to start.
 
Can that be?
Is there an adjustment in the garage door opener itself for pulse time?
 
Since the door opens fully if it has "more time" on the switch,
is there any way to make a remote 'stay on' longer than just a pulse?
 
Ron, the humblest guy in town.
bob prohaska <bp@www.zefox.net>: Jan 23 06:37PM

> Is there an adjustment in the garage door opener itself for pulse time?
 
> Since the door opens fully if it has "more time" on the switch,
> is there any way to make a remote 'stay on' longer than just a pulse?
 
I've seen lots of erratic behavior with a Genie keychain remote when
the conductive rubber buttons get lint between the rubber pad and the
circuit board. Not likely to be any help, but it's an easy thing to clean.
 
Anything that causes contact bounce in the switches on the buttons can
make the receiver stop, since the control program is usually close to
start, close again to stop, close to reverse direction.
 
hth,
 
bob prohaska
Ken <Ken@invalid.com>: Jan 23 02:14PM -0600

bob prohaska wrote:
> start, close again to stop, close to reverse direction.
 
> hth,
 
> bob prohaska
 
I think you are on the right path. I would open the receiver and clean
any contacts it had as well as check the caps in it. If there is any
interruption in the start of the closure effort, it will abort.
ehsjr <ehsjr@verizon.net>: Jan 23 03:18PM -0500

On 1/23/2023 12:33 PM, RonTheGuy wrote:
 
> Since the door opens fully if it has "more time" on the switch,
> is there any way to make a remote 'stay on' longer than just a pulse?
 
> Ron, the humblest guy in town.
 
Here's a possibility: bad electrolytic capacitor in
the receiver power supply (inside the ceiling mounted
opener motor housing). What *may* be happening: the
direction relay (up or down) in the receiver is
"chattering" (not fully transferring, allowing the
contacts to bounce far more than usual) when activated
by the remote due to pulsing voltage from the supply.
The same pulsing voltage, when applied to the relay by
the wall switch is applied for a longer time, allowing
the relay to fully transfer.
 
You have to know what you're doing to safely diagnose
and repair this. Openers can bite your fingers HARD,
and testing live (120VAC) circuits while on a ladder
presents it's own possible hazards. If you have the
skill, you can do it safely.
 
Good luck.
Ed
legg <legg@nospam.magma.ca>: Jan 24 09:12AM -0500

On Mon, 23 Jan 2023 09:33:49 -0800, RonTheGuy <ron@null.invalid>
wrote:
 
 
>Since the door opens fully if it has "more time" on the switch,
>is there any way to make a remote 'stay on' longer than just a pulse?
 
>Ron, the humblest guy in town.
 
If lighting is also controlled by the remote, you might check the
bulbs used. Some CCFL substitutes will interfere while 'on'.
 
RL
Charles Lucas <clsnowyowl@gmail.com>: Jan 23 09:35AM -0800

On Friday, January 20, 2023 at 10:51:04 PM UTC-6, Bob F wrote:
> recording of it's output.
 
> Can anyone propose what they might be doing, or ways to get past it.
 
> I cannot find any other FM apps that will run on my S9.
 
I repeated this message for the benefit of all concerned.
 
We never addressed the software you use. Some software is not licensed to pickup signals
for recording because they want you to pay money for that. You can download several
free audio recording or dubbing software apps, record in .mp3 at the desired rate, and
then copy and paste the completed file over to NextRadio's output folder for audio so
you can play it back.
 
Or you can record it in 16 bit Stereo wave format (.wav) file, convert it to .mp3 format
you desire to convert it to with a convertor. Then dump the file into NextRadio's
output folder to playback the finished .mp3 file. In this way, you can bypass the
software you speak of stringent requirements and pedantic quirks.
 
FYI, sometimes, there is a DRM (Digital Rights Management) on these files or software
that play them to prohibit copying copywritten files. DRM is a form of a "copy" guard,
again because it boils down to the fact that they want you to pay money to get the
composite signal that comes from them. I just provided you work arounds without
the cost and the hassle; I also warn that this post is for educational purposes only
regarding recording and conversion of signal and is not an encouragement to violate
any copyright or infringe upon anyone's work in any other form otherwise.
 
Good luck,
 
Charles Lucas
Bob F <bobnospam@gmail.com>: Jan 23 08:09PM -0800

On 1/23/2023 9:35 AM, Charles Lucas wrote:
> free audio recording or dubbing software apps, record in .mp3 at the desired rate, and
> then copy and paste the completed file over to NextRadio's output folder for audio so
> you can play it back.
 
No need to play it back using NextRadio. I just want to be able to
capture the sound from it. I tried a half dozed audio capture apps, and
none of them can capture the internal audio from NextRadio, or the
reduced signal sent out the earphones and fed back (reduced) into the
external mic input with. I even tried using a headphone with a mic, and
taping one of the earpieces to the mic rather than resisters and a cap
to feed the signal back, and neither one works.
 
One of the recorder apps shuts off the NextRadio output when recording,
the others just have 0 volume input despite the signal going into the
external mic input, or they just record whatever the internal mic hears.
 
You received this digest because you're subscribed to updates for this group. You can change your settings on the group membership page.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it send an email to sci.electronics.repair+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com.

Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 4 updates in 2 topics

vjp2.at@at.BioStrategist.dot.dot.com: Jan 22 08:16PM

Sorry to post here, but this group is the smartest.
 
I used to have a triple boot PC with MSDOS XP and Quantian and am trying to
replicat eon a Dell Vostro. Managed to kill win7 by moving it to put MSDOS up
front.
 
Anyone have any tips about this?
 
Where to put MSDOS (1024 cylinder, zero sector requirement)?
 
Are the Archive.org XP good? Some don't have a setup key.
Or did I fail to notice?
 
Quantian runs into filesystem location. Tried home=/dev/sda1/knoppix.img
 
 
--
Vasos Panagiotopoulos panix.com/~vjp2/vasos.htm
---{Nothing herein constitutes advice. Everything fully disclaimed.}---
legg <legg@nospam.magma.ca>: Jan 23 08:14AM -0500

On Sun, 22 Jan 2023 20:16:51 -0000 (UTC),
 
>Are the Archive.org XP good? Some don't have a setup key.
>Or did I fail to notice?
 
>Quantian runs into filesystem location. Tried home=/dev/sda1/knoppix.img
 
Install order for MS OSs is pretty rigid.
 
Oldest first.
 
Linux last.
 
Good chance that fooling with partitions at any time will
dust MS.
 
Used to have?
 
RL
"Peter W." <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Jan 22 08:53AM -0800

The Troll is back! Please do not feed the troll!
Andy Burnelli <spam@nospam.com>: Jan 22 06:47PM

Bodger wrote:
 
> which looks essentially identical to my old Amazon Basics one except that
> it has an indicator LED on the front. Price is $50 but the size it unknown
> to me at the moment.
 
Thank you for finding _both_ those 4-port GaN chargers (2x USB-C, 2x
USB-A), each of which fits the need for at least two USB-A ports!
 
The main problem that I see with the first one is only that it doesn't seem
to support QC charging (which, to me, makes a charger instantly worthless).
<https://i.postimg.cc/9FCfT60g/charger03.jpg> 4-port B087MFJY22 2C & 2A
<https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08X42DRMR/>
 
Note: In the future, the number of PD devices in your home may likely
supersede the QC devices, but for now, both are needed for many of us.
 
Luckily, your 2nd selection _does_ support both charging specs (PD & QC)!
<https://i.postimg.cc/63hntrBm/charger04.jpg> 4-port supports both QC & PD
<https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08X42DRMR/>/
 
Woo hoo! Great find! Everyone will benefit (which is the goal, after all).
 
These are the output specs of your second find as far as I can tell:
USB-C1/USB-C2 port: 5V/3A, 9V/3A, 12V/3A, 15V/3A, 20V/5A
USB-A1/USB-A2 port: 4.5V/5A, 5V/4.5A, 9V/3A, 12V/2.5A, 20V/1.5A
 
To add on-topic technical value to this conversation, here's a review:
<https://www.mbreviews.com/hyphen-x-100w-gan-charger-review/>
 
Where, in that review, they instrumented heat & power specs checks:
<https://www.mbreviews.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/02/hyphen-x-100w-charger-5.jpg>
<https://www.mbreviews.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/02/hyphen-x-100w-charger-2.jpg>
 
> an action camera and a panorama head and a travel tripod and all of those
> don't seem to slow me down and I'm 75 years old. How bloody small does a
> charger need to be?
 
I'm with you that a charger doesn't "need" to be small, especially when
it's replacing three or four separate (almost worthless) one-port chargers.
 
The charger I own was bought on Steve's recommendation on this newsgroup,
which I was able to purchase for $9 (about $10 with California sales tax).
<https://i.postimg.cc/DzGLSQJr/charger01.jpg> 3-port QA & PC GaN charger
<https://i.postimg.cc/v8t77vPX/charger02.jpg> 3-port model CH-GN67W2C1A
<https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XYNK5TG>
 
I've been watching it for a month, ever since Steve recommended it at the
$9 price, and the price fluctuates extremely wildly - almost weekly so.
 
The only problem I see with that 67 Watt GaN 3-port charger is it's long
and heavy... to the point of imbalance when multiple cords are connected.
 
It tips over too easily; and, of course, it doesn't have two USB-A ports,
which, for the next couple of years, is perhaps more useful than two USB-C.
--
Posted out of the goodness of my heart to disseminate useful information
which, in this case, is to summarize the suitable chargers so far proposed.
 
(added s.e.r just for this summary - so they can benefit without posts)
You received this digest because you're subscribed to updates for this group. You can change your settings on the group membership page.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it send an email to sci.electronics.repair+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com.

Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 1 update in 1 topic

Andy Burnelli <spam@nospam.com>: Jan 22 04:15PM

sms wrote:
 
 
> I haven't seen anything like that.
> <https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XYNK5TG> is $21.99 but it is two USB-C PD
> and one USB-A.
 
This post is a plea to those on the newsgroup to help find the charger.
 
Interesting charger request that the Android owners should be aware of:
1. Steve (sms) is the _finest_ at finding modern charger hardware
2. Badgolferman asked for a USB-A + USB-A + USB-C QC/PD modern GaN charger
3. Steve & I can't find one in a search of Amazon - so we need more help.
 
If anyone who reads this knows of a modern QC/PD GaN USB-A, USB-A & USB-C
charger (which will charge any Android or Apple phone) please let us know!
 
I tell it like it is, where Steve is the _best_ out there for such things.
Unlike the iKooks, I'm normal in that I can admit what I don't know, and I
can admit when I make a mistake & I can commend people for adding good
data, which, I openly and publicly admit, sometimes Steve does do.
 
While Steve often plays his political games (e.g., lying about T-Mobile
coverage and shilling for Verizon and always playing with the statistics,
when it comes to chargers, Steve is the best resource on this newsgroup.
 
As a result...
 
I've bought almost every charger that Steve recommends, which is a
testament to Steve's skill and acumen at picking out hardware value.
 
As a result of following Steve's advice, I have that charger badgolferman.
<https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XYNK5TG> I paid about $10 with CA sales tax
 
And, unlike the iKooks who lie about everything, I don't lie, and I prove
that I have this charger myself with this photo next to some of my iPads.
<https://i.postimg.cc/DzGLSQJr/charger01.jpg> Steve's recommended charger
 
Here's a shot of the spec as written on the box (the details of which don't
seem to be on Amazon so it's useful to all to show what the full spec is).
<https://i.postimg.cc/v8t77vPX/charger02.jpg> Onko SuperPort S3 III spec
 
The model number on the charger is: CH-GN67W2C1A (67 watts, three ports).
 
Always keep in mind that the iKooks like nospam lie with every breath, and
yet, my posts are always credible because I only have two agendas here:
1. Learn from others (like Steve) and teach at the same time (about Apple)
2. Show the iKooks for the despicable unprepossessing liars they truly are
 
Unfortunately for badgolferman, that's USB-C, USB-C & USB-A, and not USB-A,
USB-A & USB-C; but at least it supports both QC and PD (which is critical).
 
Android users: If you know of the desired charger, please let us know
because at this point in time, most of our cables are USB-A on one end,
where, at this point in time, two USB-A ports are more useful to many of us
than two USB-C ports (this will change, over time to the other way around).
 
Badgolferman: If you want to ask questions about it, please do.
(fup to misc.phone.mobile.iphone,comp.mobile.android as it's not a repair
but the s.e.r folks are the best in the world at finding electronics)
--
Posted out of the goodness of my heart to disseminate useful information
which, in this case, is to ask the Android newsgroup for help finding it.
You received this digest because you're subscribed to updates for this group. You can change your settings on the group membership page.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it send an email to sci.electronics.repair+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com.

Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 2 updates in 2 topics

Tomas Paquot <tomaspaquot2003@gmail.com>: Jan 21 05:20AM -0800

Bob F <bobnospam@gmail.com>: Jan 20 08:50PM -0800

On 1/18/2023 9:15 AM, Charles Lucas wrote:
> and then getting converted to a digital media in the processing). You have to remember
> level control is also very important. Don't overload the headphone outs with "too much"
> signal (or distortive audio) or avoid overdriving the signal.
 
I tried a half dozen recording apps to try to record the NextRadio audio
from the headphone jack back at a lower level into the mic input. One of
them "Voice recorder" 21.3.55.16, causes NextRadio to stop
receiving/outputting the FM audio while it is recording.
 
The other recording apps I tried would let NextRadio keep going, but the
app shows zero signal, so no audio gets recorded.
 
I tried a couple of the apps while playing an mp3 file on the phone, and
the audio was recorded properly.
 
So, it really seems like NextRadio is doing something wierd to prevent
recording of it's output.
 
Can anyone propose what they might be doing, or ways to get past it.
 
I cannot find any other FM apps that will run on my S9.
You received this digest because you're subscribed to updates for this group. You can change your settings on the group membership page.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it send an email to sci.electronics.repair+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com.

Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 16 updates in 2 topics

David Lesher <wb8foz@panix.com>: Jan 19 07:23PM

You want the spark when disconnecting to be AWAY from the
rapidly charging battery.
 
So: Run the negative from frame to frame,
and disconnect at the rescue car first.
 
 
--
A host is a host from coast to coast...............wb8foz@panix.com
& no one will talk to a host that's close..........................
Unless the host (that isn't close).........................pob 1433
is busy, hung or dead....................................20915-1433
"Rod Speed" <rod.speed.aaa@gmail.com>: Jan 20 07:41AM +1100

David Lesher <wb8foz@panix.com> wrote
 
> You want the spark when disconnecting to be AWAY from the
> rapidly charging battery.
 
There is no hydrogen when the once flat battery
is being charged once the engine has started.
 
Peeler <trolltrap@valid.invalid>: Jan 19 09:45PM +0100

On Fri, 20 Jan 2023 07:41:53 +1100, cantankerous trolling geezer Rodent
Speed, the auto-contradicting senile sociopath, blabbered, again:
 
<FLUSH the abnormal trolling senile cretin's latest trollshit unread>
 
--
Bod addressing abnormal senile quarreller Rodent Speed:
"Do you practice arguing with yourself in an empty room?"
MID: <g4ihlaFh5p5U2@mid.individual.net>
"Mighty✅ Wannabe✅" <@.>: Jan 19 04:28PM -0500

Rod Speed wrote on 1/19/2023 3:41 PM:
> is being charged once the engine has started.
 
>> So: Run the negative from frame to frame,
>> and disconnect at the rescue car first.
 
 
I real life scenario there is no danger of hydrogen accumulation under
the hood because it is too airy inside the engine compartment.
 
There will be danger of hydrogen accumulation if the lead-acid battery
is confined inside a box, like underneath a motorized wheelchair.
scott@slp53.sl.home (Scott Lurndal): Jan 19 10:04PM

>the hood because it is too airy inside the engine compartment.
 
>There will be danger of hydrogen accumulation if the lead-acid battery
>is confined inside a box, like underneath a motorized wheelchair.
 
Then why do space launch vehicles use burners to ensure that any H2
that pools around the launch site is burned off before launch?
 
Far more "airy" environment than any automobile engine compartment.
"Mighty✅ Wannabe✅" <@.>: Jan 19 05:48PM -0500

Scott Lurndal wrote on 1/19/2023 5:04 PM:
>> is confined inside a box, like underneath a motorized wheelchair.
> Then why do space launch vehicles use burners to ensure that any H2
> that pools around the launch site is burned off before launch?
 
 
Have you actually seen a rocket launch? The launch rocket itself is a
gigantic blowtorch which would have blown away or ignited "any H2 that
pools around the launch site". Besides, H2 doesn't "poll around the
launch site" because hydrogen is much lighter than air. Any leaked H2
would have risen up into the heavens.
 
 
 
scott@slp53.sl.home (Scott Lurndal): Jan 19 11:32PM

>> Then why do space launch vehicles use burners to ensure that any H2
>> that pools around the launch site is burned off before launch?
 
>Have you actually seen a rocket launch?
 
Yes, and a shuttle landing as a guest at Edwards. Note that the SLS uses
shuttle main engines.
 
 
https://space.stackexchange.com/questions/35983/what-are-the-sparks-flying-at-the-bottom-of-ssmes-at-the-time-of-launch
 
"At T minus 10 seconds, the "go for main engine start" command
is issued by the GLS. (The GLS retains the capability to command
main engine stop until just before the SRBs are ignited.) At this
time flares are ignited under the main engines to burn away any
residual gaseous hydrogen that may have collected in the vicinity
of the main engine nozzles. A half second later, the flight
computers order the opening of valves which allow the liquid
hydrogen and oxygen to flow into the engine's turbopumps."
"Mighty✅ Wannabe✅" <@.>: Jan 19 07:02PM -0500

Scott Lurndal wrote on 1/19/2023 6:32 PM:
> of the main engine nozzles. A half second later, the flight
> computers order the opening of valves which allow the liquid
> hydrogen and oxygen to flow into the engine's turbopumps."
 
The person who wrote that is definitely not educated enough to know that
hydrogen rises and won't stick around at the base of the rocket. That is
the most laughable thing a person can say.
 
The real reason for the flares shooting at the rocket nozzle is an
insurance policy that in case the internal ignition mechanism failed to
ignite the hydrogen fuel mixture, the flares will guarantee the hydrogen
fuel will be ignited.
 
Image if the hydrogen fuel mixture failed to ignite internally and there
is no flare at the nozzle, the rocket will expel all the hydrogen fuel
mixture while sitting on the launch pad. Image how big the fireball that
will ensue when it does ignite by static charge or random spark one
minute later.
"Rod Speed" <rod.speed.aaa@gmail.com>: Jan 20 12:31PM +1100

On Fri, 20 Jan 2023 08:28:30 +1100, Mighty✅ Wannabe✅ <.> wrote:
 
>>> and disconnect at the rescue car first.
 
> I real life scenario there is no danger of hydrogen accumulation under
> the hood because it is too airy inside the engine compartment.
 
In spades when the hood is opened to allow the positive jumper lead
to be connected to the battery post.
 
> There will be danger of hydrogen accumulation if the lead-acid battery
> is confined inside a box, like underneath a motorized wheelchair.
 
Not with modern sealed batterys which have a catalyst that recombines
the gases back to water and which have the metal used in the plates
which ensure that no hydrogen is produced when they are charged.
"Rod Speed" <rod.speed.aaa@gmail.com>: Jan 20 12:33PM +1100

On Fri, 20 Jan 2023 09:04:09 +1100, Scott Lurndal <scott@slp53.sl.home>
wrote:
 
>> is confined inside a box, like underneath a motorized wheelchair.
 
> Then why do space launch vehicles use burners to ensure that any H2
> that pools around the launch site is burned off before launch?
 
Because you get FAR more gaseous hydrogen in that situation.
 
"Rod Speed" <rod.speed.aaa@gmail.com>: Jan 20 12:37PM +1100

On Fri, 20 Jan 2023 10:32:26 +1100, Scott Lurndal <scott@slp53.sl.home>
wrote:
 
> of the main engine nozzles. A half second later, the flight
> computers order the opening of valves which allow the liquid
> hydrogen and oxygen to flow into the engine's turbopumps."
 
And the important bit is the fact that the fuel is LIQUID HYDROGEN
which can see lots of gaseous hydrogen around the area where the
fuel will be ignited if there is any leak at all.
Peeler <trolltrap@valid.invalid>: Jan 20 09:40AM +0100

"Rod Speed is an entirely modern phenomenon. Essentially, Rod Speed
is an insecure and worthless individual who has discovered he can
enhance his own self-esteem in his own eyes by playing "the big, hard
man" on the InterNet."
 
https://www.pcreview.co.uk/threads/rod-speed-faq.2973853/
 
--
williamwright addressing Rodent Speed:
"This is getting beyond ridiculous now. You're trying to prove black's
white. You're arguing with someone who has been involved with the issues all
his working life when you clearly have no knowledge at all. I think you're
just being a pillock for the sake of it. You clearly don't actually believe
your own words. You must have a very empty life, and a sad embittered soul.
MID: <j08o6bFeqc1U1@mid.individual.net>
"Carlos E.R." <robin_listas@es.invalid>: Jan 19 06:11PM +0100

>> Peter, do you mean liquid "rosin" as used on violin bow strings?
 
>> It actually is sold as a solid but I believe it is soluble in alcohol. Scrape some rosin shavings into iso-propyl and apply to the string. The alcohol will evaporate and leave the rosin in place.
 
> Rosin is a band-aid and isn't required if it's strung properly and friction is mitigated. You can use virtually any non-stretching string of a similar diameter and it won't slip.
 
On some radios, the string passes metal rods that are not pulleys, and
there having friction would be bad.
 
--
Cheers, Carlos.
"Peter W." <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Jan 19 09:46AM -0800

> Rosin is a band-aid and isn't required if it's strung properly and friction is mitigated. You can use virtually any non-stretching string of a similar diameter and it won't slip.
 
I will give a poor analogy to the reason for the Rosin - poor, because technology has changed over the last 20 years, or so. But for us Luddites:
 
Those of us, who, back in the day, drove air-cooled VWs which we serviced ourselves for the most part, always used a wee bit of anti-seize on the spark-plugs to avoid head damage, and we adjusted torque accordingly. Most especially those of us who were *really cheap* and used un-plated plugs. Today, plugs are, for the most part, plated from the factory and anti-seize is not recommended by manufacturers any longer. Similarly back in the day VW also used lug bolts, and there was a 'whole thing' on anti-seize on the threads (not the bearing face) of the bolt. Again, not so much today due to improved technologies and plating processes.
 
Getting back to Rosin - the OP is starting with a vintage German radio - and as I have noted on occasion, the Germans never use one part where three-or-more will do better. So, restringing such a beast is one of more troublesome tasks in the vintage radio hobby. Even getting the chassis out of the case/cabinet is a massive PITA. So, the idea is to do it once and get another 50-75 years out of the effort. The things that mess up dial mechanisms:
a) Age: The pulleys wear, the springs (if any) wear, and the bearings wear such that the pulleys wobble.
b) Dust and airborne crud contaminate the system causing additional friction, or slippage.
c) And many hobbyists rely on their memory rather than looking for a diagram when re-stringing.
 
There are few absolute cures for a) - I have found that going to the next higher (or two) string gauges can help for two reasons: A greater bearing surface, so less tension is required, and therefore less wobble. And the string centerline is further from the edge of the pulley - again, less wobble. Replace the springs, of course.
 
Dust and crud can be cleaned - in fact a radio from a smoker environment will not see the display in our house until absolutely thoroughly cleaned. Most will be rejected prior to purchase in any case.
 
And, there are sources for stringing diagrams, even for many/most Euro radios. Further, the generic diagrams are useful to find similar configurations. I need to repeat HAND MATTERS! And may German radios tune from Right-to-Left - matters even more!
 
What the rosin does best is reduce the amount of tension required on the string, and together with the slightly larger diameter increase the friction without increasing wear. And if simple Dacron is used, that first application is well-and-truly life-time. The analogy that comes to mind is the fiber core of elevator ropes - as a reservoir for lubricants - the Dacron acts as a reservoir for the rosin and does not spread it all over the place as a sticky mess - a little goes a long way.
 
Yes, I keep high-tack PTFE-impregnated synthetic oil for bearings and such - it is emphatically non-conductive, and stays where-put, does not oxidize and does not turn to varnish even in warm environments. NEVER graphite as it is a conductor, and can 'track' even if by accident. Horrible stuff in an electronic environment, especially with tubes involved.
 
It is a process - and if done carefully, those next 50 years are a near certainty.
 
Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
Allodoxaphobia <trepidation@example.net>: Jan 19 06:20PM


> Rosin is a band-aid and isn't required if it's strung properly and
> friction is mitigated. You can use virtually any non-stretching
> string of a similar diameter and it won't slip.
 
I've often thought waxed dental floss might be a solution
for dial cord. But I never had a opportunity to employ it.
 
Jonesy
--
Marvin L Jones | Marvin | W3DHJ.net | linux
38.238N 104.547W | @ jonz.net | Jonesy | FreeBSD
* Killfiling google & XXXXbanter.com: jonz.net/ng.htm
"Peter W." <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Jan 19 11:33AM -0800

> I've often thought waxed dental floss might be a solution
> for dial cord. But I never had a opportunity to employ it.
 
Not quite as bad as graphite, but approaching that state.
 
Once-upon-a-time dental floss was made from silk, and could be doubled or tripled to make a reasonable, stretch-resistant cord. Silk, like nacre feels smooth, to the touch, but creates considerable friction when tight - while not being overly abrasive. Today the crap is made, primarily, from PTFE, and is flat, not round. It is also highly abrasive and will cut through soft aluminum pulleys and sheaves if made tight enough not to slip. Since it has a very low surface area, and PTFE is a naturally slippery material, and because the surface is textured to catch tartar but still slip easily, it is altogether nasty in that application. Not to mention that as landfill, it can last hundreds of years. Worse, if burnt, the POC are deadly to felines and Avian species.
 
Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
You received this digest because you're subscribed to updates for this group. You can change your settings on the group membership page.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it send an email to sci.electronics.repair+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com.

Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 4 updates in 2 topics

"tschw...@aol.com" <tschw10117@aol.com>: Jan 18 03:56PM -0800

Peter, do you mean liquid "rosin" as used on violin bow strings?
 
It actually is sold as a solid but I believe it is soluble in alcohol. Scrape some rosin shavings into iso-propyl and apply to the string. The alcohol will evaporate and leave the rosin in place.
"Peter W." <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Jan 19 03:41AM -0800

> Peter, do you mean liquid "rosin" as used on violin bow strings?
 
> It actually is sold as a solid but I believe it is soluble in alcohol. Scrape some rosin shavings into iso-propyl and apply to the string. The alcohol will evaporate and leave the rosin in place.
Terry:
 
I linked a liquid version - it has the virtue of being of the correct concentration for the need.
 
Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
"ohg...@gmail.com" <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Jan 19 07:01AM -0800

> Peter, do you mean liquid "rosin" as used on violin bow strings?
 
> It actually is sold as a solid but I believe it is soluble in alcohol. Scrape some rosin shavings into iso-propyl and apply to the string. The alcohol will evaporate and leave the rosin in place.
 
 
Rosin is a band-aid and isn't required if it's strung properly and friction is mitigated. You can use virtually any non-stretching string of a similar diameter and it won't slip.
"Peter W." <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Jan 19 03:43AM -0800

76 (including this one) posts for what is a (or should be) an uncomplicated subject on a pretty basic automotive process. Really?
You received this digest because you're subscribed to updates for this group. You can change your settings on the group membership page.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it send an email to sci.electronics.repair+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com.

Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 25 updates in 1 topic

"Rod Speed" <rod.speed.aaa@gmail.com>: Jan 19 11:01AM +1100

On Thu, 19 Jan 2023 02:37:33 +1100, Peter
 
> Didn't the conversation recently happen that rain water (now that "acid
> rain" is no longer a thing, thanks to the EPA), is just as good as
> distilled water nowadays?
 
No its not, because its impossible to collect rain water
that has come off the roof without some dirt and stuff
like bird shit and leaves from the roof, quite apart from
what happens to it sitting in your tank between when it
came off the roof and you get some to add to your battery.
 
> acid rain is pH 5.5 or lower by EPA definition someone found out), but a
> bit of weak carbonic acid (from the dissolved carbon dioxide) won't hurt
> the strong sulfuric acid in a lead:acid battery, will it?
 
The problem is the lead carbonate. Not enough to matter tho.
 
> I'm guessing that rain water nowadays, unless you live within a few miles
> of a volcano (and you don't) or a coal-fired power plant (and you don't),
> is pretty damn close to distilled water in most parts of the country.
 
Nope, because of whats on the roof and in the gutters dirt and bird shit
wise.
 
> Sure rain water will have a bit of "something here" and "something there"
> based on the dissolved gases in the atmosphere, but so will any bottle of
> distilled water that has ever been open to the exact same atmosphere.
 
The difference is that the distilled water hasnt fallen thru thousands
of feet of air in small droplets.
 
> that as you can't see any when you collect it outside and even if there
> were, a coffee filter would filter them out just fine (and who says store
> bought distilled water doesn't have particles?).
 
Doesnt help with the solubles.
 
> Sure, both might have particles, but I can't imagine they could matter
> given how few there would be if you can't even see them with your eyes.
 
You can't see solubles.
 
> But I don't know.
 
That's obvious.
 
> me), then that person should set me straight before I go on with this
> line
> of reasoning.
 
Wouldn't dream of doing that. You might burst into tears
and that would be rather embarrasijng and someone might
claim I have breached community standards.
"Rod Speed" <rod.speed.aaa@gmail.com>: Jan 19 11:04AM +1100

On Thu, 19 Jan 2023 02:41:48 +1100, Mighty✅ Wannabe✅ <.> wrote:
 
 
> I can think of a simple way. Connect jump cable clamps to the car
> battery terminals and then carefully loosen and lift the terminals from
> the old battery.
 
Trouble with that approach is that you can't
usually connect the thick battery leads to the
new battery until the new batter is where the
old battery still is.
 
"Rod Speed" <rod.speed.aaa@gmail.com>: Jan 19 11:13AM +1100

On Thu, 19 Jan 2023 02:50:24 +1100, Peter
>> remove, and distilled water is cheap and easy to get.
 
> It's a car battery. It's not a silicon based integrated circuit.
> Water is water. To a certain degree it's all the same thing.
 
Fraid not.
 
> I don't know the answer for sure,
 
That's obvious.
 
> but I would reason out that almost all
> tap water will be just fine in a car battery
 
Some tap water is quite hard and produces
lots of scales in an electric jug over time.
 
> chlorine (or chloramines?) that they put in them might affect the
> lead:acid
> chemistry.
 
That doesn't.
 
> They add fluorine too I think,
 
Fluoride, not flourine.
 
> and there might be a decent amount of
> calcium carbonates
 
Yes, with hard water.
 
> and metallic ions such as copper and phosphorous.
 
Not normally enough to matter.
 
But some still have water from wells for their tap water.
 
> I'm guessing that the minute amount of such things (having owned a pool,
> I'm aware they're in the PPM range, and PPB for phosphorous) in a car
> battery designed to last five years, won't make one bit of difference.
 
Particularly as most don't add water to their car battery anymore with
sealed batterys.
 
> calcium hardness due to calcium salts would range a bit higher, maybe
> double (depending, of course, on the amount of old shallow seas in your
> area fifty to two hundred million years ago).
 
And how much limestone there is. Lots in some places.
 
> so is tap water - so since they're all dirt cheap, may as well use the
> rain
> water.
 
Or distilled water given that its cheap and you dont use much.
 
 
> Overall, does ANYONE have ANY real data that tap water actually degrades
> a
> car batter enough for someone to actually measure the results in 5 years?
 
The battery manufacturers do.
"Rod Speed" <rod.speed.aaa@gmail.com>: Jan 19 11:17AM +1100

Peter <occassionally-confused@nospam.co.uk> wrote
 
> Has anyone wondered whether the "pure" water will be "leaching" out the
> chemistry of the lead:acid plates inside the battery?
 
It doesn't leach out of the plates, its boiled off when the battery
is still charged when it has been fully charged already.
 
> Having owned a pool, all water chemistry tends toward equilibrium,
 
That's wrong too.
 
> and
> dissolved salts (metal and a non metal) are no exception to the rule.
 
There is no equilibrium involved. You presumably
mean that the dissolved stuff spread thruout the pool.
 
> So the more pure the water, the more it will dissolve a bit of that
> lead:acid compound that they slather on the plates between rubber sheets.
 
Utterly mangled all over again. Lead doesnt dissolve in
water enough to matter.
 
> Has anyone thought of that?
 
Corse the designers of car batterys have.
"Rod Speed" <rod.speed.aaa@gmail.com>: Jan 19 11:21AM +1100

On Thu, 19 Jan 2023 03:09:25 +1100, Peter
> know this for a fact that some are sheisters who can't be trusted.
 
> Back to this topic, how do you know that the "pure" water isn't leaching
> out all the good paste on the plates, now that it's devoid of ions?
 
Trivial to test that by weighing the battery before and after.
 
> could it possibly matter in a twenty-five pound battery designed for a
> short life in what turns out to be miserably inhospitable temperature &
> vibration conditions, not to mention discharge recharge redox cycles.
 
The reality is that modern cars use sealed batterys and no one
adds any water to them anymore.
"Rod Speed" <rod.speed.aaa@gmail.com>: Jan 19 11:36AM +1100

On Thu, 19 Jan 2023 03:21:25 +1100, Peter
 
> However, you also said that the DISCHARGED battery is the one with all
> the
> hydrogen,
 
That's wrong. You don't get hydrogen when attempting
to start the car with a battery that is flat or can't deliver
the current the starter motor requires to turn the engine
over fast enough.
 
 
> Which is the correct line of reasoning?
 
> (A) Put the negative on the donor car last because that spark is least
> likely to ignite hydrogen gases from the discharged battery or
 
Yes, but thats not because of the hydrogen.
 
> (B) Put the positive on the donor car last because you have less chance
> of accidentally shorting the circuit
 
More chance of accidentally touching part of the body of the donor car
with the positive lead clamp.
 
& the donor has less outgassing
 
> Which is more logical?
 
A, but for a different reason.
"Rod Speed" <rod.speed.aaa@gmail.com>: Jan 19 11:46AM +1100

On Thu, 19 Jan 2023 10:20:29 +1100, Carlos E.R. <robin_listas@es.invalid>
wrote:
 
>>> them:
 
>>> Both distilled and deionized water are fit to drink.
 
> Bullshit, don't try that, you could die.
 
Nope.
 
> Why can't we drink distilled water?
 
> Drinking distilled water creates health problems from the lack of
> essential nutrients
 
We aren't discussing JUST drinking distilled water,
we are discussing whether it is dangerous to drink it.
 
> and causes dehydration.
 
Bullshit. At most it might mean you don't get
enough salt if you drink lots of it and dont eat
anything.
 
> Drinking distilled water is never a bad idea
 
That's the opposite of what you just claimed.
 
> because the body cannot absorb dissolved minerals from water into the
> tissue.Sep 29, 2022
 
Doesn't need to if you get the salt from fool or salt tablets.
 
> What Is Distilled Water and Is It Safe to Drink?
> https://www.freshwatersystems.com › blogs › blog › is-...
 
> https://www.freshwatersystems.com/blogs/blog/is-distilled-water-safe-to-drink
 
Just because some fool claims something...
 
 
> Limitations
 
> Some contaminants that have the same boiling point as water is
> vaporized with water can be carried into the condensate
 
The reality is that there are no contaminants like that in the
water used to make distilled water for car batterys.
 
> Careful maintenance is required to ensure purity
> Requires more heat / electrical energy to boil the water.
> Requires large space on the counter
 
So do deionizers.
 
> Low-cost investment
 
> Limitation
 
> Do not remove particles or bacteria.
 
Or contaminants that have the same boiling point as water.
 
"Rod Speed" <rod.speed.aaa@gmail.com>: Jan 19 11:52AM +1100

On Thu, 19 Jan 2023 09:39:01 +1100, Peter
> result. During Covid, I was wondering why anyone hoarded TP in the first
> place.
 
> How does Covid make you need more TP?
 
It doesn't but when some fools started buying it up so
they wouldn't be without it, other fools followed suit.
 
"Rod Speed" <rod.speed.aaa@gmail.com>: Jan 19 11:55AM +1100


> Been decades since I had a car battery that needed water but I am
> hearing it is better to put distilled or demineralized water in your car
> radiator if needed as minerals are bad there too.
 
Only if you are in a hard water area or use your own well water.
"Rod Speed" <rod.speed.aaa@gmail.com>: Jan 19 12:01PM +1100

On Thu, 19 Jan 2023 04:54:10 +1100, John Robertson <jrr@flippers.com>
wrote:
 
> unlikely to cause the battery to explode if hydrogen gas was created.
> Perhaps you left the jumpers connected for a few minutes while charging
> the battery which leads to more hydrogen gas
 
No, because the battery doesn't gas unless it is being charged when
fully charged already and that won't be happening with either battery.
 
"Rod Speed" <rod.speed.aaa@gmail.com>: Jan 19 12:11PM +1100

On Thu, 19 Jan 2023 07:53:57 +1100, Peter
 
> Henrys Law says it will reach equilibrium based on the partial pressure
> of
> the carbon dioxide in the air.
 
Its more complicated than that in reality because you wouldnt
leave the top off after you have used some to top up the battery.
 
> That ionic carbon dioxide dissolves and turns into carbonic acid.
 
> pH about 5.6
 
> It's only "pure water" for an instant.
 
But isn't impure enough to matter in reality.
"Mighty✅ Wannabe✅" <@.>: Jan 18 10:06PM -0500

Rod Speed wrote on 1/18/2023 7:52 PM:
 
>> How does Covid make you need more TP?
 
> It doesn't but when some fools started buying it up so
> they wouldn't be without it, other fools followed suit.
 
For them, it is a logical consequence of hoarding food in a survival
mode. What goes in, must come out.
 
 
"Mighty✅ Wannabe✅" <@.>: Jan 18 11:05PM -0500

Peter wrote on 1/18/2023 5:39 PM:
> Plus, the only thing getting bigger down there is my prostate, which is
> wreaking havoc with the drainage hydraulics, where I'll say no more.
 
Medical research says that enlarged prostate is a direct consequence of
male hormone, much like male pattern baldness.
 
I haven't reached a state that I have problem passing urine but I can
sense that the passage is narrowing because it takes longer to empty the
bladder.
 
I have been experimenting with all sorts of herbal hair tonics for more
than ten years now. I am not bald yet, but like every man I am thinning
at the crown.
 
Finally I come back to think about dealing with the male hormone, the
alleged culprit of male pattern baldness and enlarged prostate. I found
out on the internet that soybean and the artificial sweetener "Stevia"
have female hormone effect. So I started using Stevia instead of
Sucralose, and eating a lot of tofu.
 
https://www.amazon.com/Now-Better-Stevia-Organic-Sweetener/dp/B005F9XFN0
 
I also make 1% Stevia water mixture as hair tonic to apply in my crown
area. I add 10% in volume isopropyl alcohol mainly as preservative. I
don't know if Stevia can rot in water but I imagine no bacteria can grow
in 10% IPA solution.
 
For tofu, I buy from Chinese supermarkets soft tofu in plastic buckets
that look like this photo:
 
https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0360/7035/9178/products/WeChatImage_20200414153015_500x_a8743a02-1633-437e-ab22-79f27427aa69.jpg
 
I empty all the water and refill with cold tap water everyday and keep
in the refrigerator.
 
You might be able to find soft tofu in small plastic flats of 4, or 6
cubes in normal supermarket but Chinese supermarkets also sell tofu in
bucket size plastic containers as shown in the above photo.
 
My way of eating this tofu is:
 
Put one cube in a 2 qt batter bowl like this
 
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Anchor-Hocking-Glass-Mixing-Batter-Bowl-with-Lid-2-Quart/163913120
 
Cut the tofu in the batter bowl with scissors vertically many times
without holding the tofu by hand. Then add some cooking oil and close
the lid. Put into microwave and nuke it.
 
The steam can escape from the lid so there is no danger of the steam and
pressure blowing the lid off in the microwave.
 
Season with anything you like, but I usually eat it with other food in
my meal.
 
It will take a long time to see results in countering the deleterious
effect of male hormone in man's hair and prostate, but I can tell than I
have less sex drive after two months of using Stevia as sweetener and
adding tofu to my diet. Maybe it is working.
"Rod Speed" <rod.speed.aaa@gmail.com>: Jan 19 03:22PM +1100

On Thu, 19 Jan 2023 14:06:05 +1100, Mighty✅ Wannabe✅ <.> wrote:
 
>> they wouldn't be without it, other fools followed suit.
 
> For them, it is a logical consequence of hoarding food in a survival
> mode.
 
They weren't hoarding food in survival mode.
 
> What goes in, must come out.
 
No evidence that more would go in with covid around,
so no need for more toilet paper than usual.
 
"Rod Speed" <rod.speed.aaa@gmail.com>: Jan 19 03:29PM +1100

Mighty✅ Wannabe✅ <.> wrote
>> wreaking havoc with the drainage hydraulics, where I'll say no more.
 
> Medical research says that enlarged prostate is a direct consequence of
> male hormone, much like male pattern baldness.
 
Doesnt explain why an enlarged prostate shows up in old age
when the male hormone levels have clearly dropped significantly.
 
> I haven't reached a state that I have problem passing urine
 
I dont either and am almost into my 80s. Never need to piss at night
either.
 
> but I can sense that the passage is narrowing because it takes longer to
> empty the bladder.
 
Don't get any effect like that either.
 
And my PSA tests are fine.
 
> I have been experimenting with all sorts of herbal hair tonics for more
> than ten years now.
 
I haven't bothered and have been visibly balding for more than 50 years
now.
 
> I am not bald yet, but like every man I am thinning at the crown.
 
I am much balder than that and it is genetic, my dad started
to thin in his 30 and ended up quite a bit balder than me.
 
> Finally I come back to think about dealing with the male hormone, the
> alleged culprit of male pattern baldness and enlarged prostate.
 
Don't buy that claim with enlarged prostate for the reason I listed.
 
Peeler <trolltrap@valid.invalid>: Jan 19 08:26AM +0100

On Thu, 19 Jan 2023 12:01:08 +1100, cantankerous trolling geezer Rodent
Speed, the auto-contradicting senile sociopath, blabbered, again:
 
<FLUSH the abnormal trolling senile cretin's latest trollshit unread>
 
--
Tim+ about trolling Rodent Speed:
He is by far the most persistent troll who seems to be able to get under the
skin of folk who really should know better. Since when did arguing with a
troll ever achieve anything (beyond giving the troll pleasure)?
MID: <1421057667.659518815.743467.tim.downie-gmail.com@news.individual.net>
Peeler <trolltrap@valid.invalid>: Jan 19 08:27AM +0100

On Thu, 19 Jan 2023 11:04:26 +1100, cantankerous trolling geezer Rodent
Speed, the auto-contradicting senile sociopath, blabbered, again:
 
<FLUSH the abnormal trolling senile cretin's latest trollshit unread>
 
--
"Who or What is Rod Speed?
Rod Speed is an entirely modern phenomenon. Essentially, Rod Speed
is an insecure and worthless individual who has discovered he can
enhance his own self-esteem in his own eyes by playing "the big, hard
man" on the InterNet."
https://www.pcreview.co.uk/threads/rod-speed-faq.2973853/
Peeler <trolltrap@valid.invalid>: Jan 19 08:28AM +0100

"Rod Speed is an entirely modern phenomenon. Essentially, Rod Speed
is an insecure and worthless individual who has discovered he can
enhance his own self-esteem in his own eyes by playing "the big, hard
man" on the InterNet."
 
https://www.pcreview.co.uk/threads/rod-speed-faq.2973853/
 
--
MrTurnip@down.the.farm about senile Rodent Speed:
"This is like having a conversation with someone with brain damage."
MID: <ps10v9$uo2$1@gioia.aioe.org>
Peeler <trolltrap@valid.invalid>: Jan 19 08:28AM +0100

On Thu, 19 Jan 2023 11:21:14 +1100, cantankerous trolling geezer Rodent
Speed, the auto-contradicting senile sociopath, blabbered, again:
 
<FLUSH the abnormal trolling senile cretin's latest trollshit unread>
 
--
R Souls addressing the trolling senile Australian cretin:
"Your opinions are unwelcome and worthless. Now fuck off."
MID: <urs8jh59laqeeb0seg1erij61m383reog5@4ax.com>
Peeler <trolltrap@valid.invalid>: Jan 19 08:29AM +0100

On Thu, 19 Jan 2023 11:46:51 +1100, cantankerous trolling geezer Rodent
Speed, the auto-contradicting senile sociopath, blabbered, again:
 
<FLUSH the abnormal trolling senile cretin's latest trollshit unread>
 
--
Kerr-Mudd,John addressing the auto-contradicting senile cretin:
"Auto-contradictor Rod is back! (in the KF)"
MID: <XnsA97071CF43E3Fadmin127001@85.214.115.223>
Peeler <trolltrap@valid.invalid>: Jan 19 08:30AM +0100

On Thu, 19 Jan 2023 10:43:04 +1100, cantankerous trolling geezer Rodent
Speed, the auto-contradicting senile sociopath, blabbered, again:
 
<FLUSH the abnormal trolling senile cretin's latest trollshit unread>
 
--
williamwright addressing Rodent Speed:
"This is getting beyond ridiculous now. You're trying to prove black's
white. You're arguing with someone who has been involved with the issues all
his working life when you clearly have no knowledge at all. I think you're
just being a pillock for the sake of it. You clearly don't actually believe
your own words. You must have a very empty life, and a sad embittered soul.
MID: <j08o6bFeqc1U1@mid.individual.net>
Peeler <trolltrap@valid.invalid>: Jan 19 08:31AM +0100

On Thu, 19 Jan 2023 09:59:03 +1100, cantankerous trolling geezer Rodent
Speed, the auto-contradicting senile sociopath, blabbered, again:
 
<FLUSH the abnormal trolling senile cretin's latest trollshit unread>
 
--
Xeno to senile Rodent:
"You're a sad old man Rod, truly sad."
MID: <id04c3F50peU1@mid.individual.net>
Peeler <trolltrap@valid.invalid>: Jan 19 08:32AM +0100

On Thu, 19 Jan 2023 15:29:23 +1100, cantankerous trolling geezer Rodent
Speed, the auto-contradicting senile sociopath, blabbered, again:
 
<FLUSH the abnormal trolling senile cretin's latest trollshit unread>
 
--
Bod addressing abnormal senile quarreller Rodent Speed:
"Do you practice arguing with yourself in an empty room?"
MID: <g4ihlaFh5p5U2@mid.individual.net>
Peeler <trolltrap@valid.invalid>: Jan 19 08:34AM +0100

On Thu, 19 Jan 2023 11:17:27 +1100, cantankerous trolling geezer Rodent
Speed, the auto-contradicting senile sociopath, blabbered, again:
 
<FLUSH the abnormal trolling senile cretin's latest trollshit unread>
 
--
Tim+ about trolling Rodent Speed:
He is by far the most persistent troll who seems to be able to get under the
skin of folk who really should know better. Since when did arguing with a
troll ever achieve anything (beyond giving the troll pleasure)?
MID: <1421057667.659518815.743467.tim.downie-gmail.com@news.individual.net>
Peeler <trolltrap@valid.invalid>: Jan 19 08:34AM +0100

On Thu, 19 Jan 2023 11:36:05 +1100, cantankerous trolling geezer Rodent
Speed, the auto-contradicting senile sociopath, blabbered, again:
 
<FLUSH the abnormal trolling senile cretin's latest trollshit unread>
You received this digest because you're subscribed to updates for this group. You can change your settings on the group membership page.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it send an email to sci.electronics.repair+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com.