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Bob Engelhardt <BobEngelhardt@comcast.net>: Nov 30 10:28AM -0500 On 11/28/2021 4:13 PM, Mike Coon wrote: > Decades ago I recall a varnish that was specificaally formulated to > become a flux when soldering. So I am sure it is possible, but whether > that is what you have got is a different matter!   I probably do have it, given the ease with which I was able to get solder to stick. What a great idea - I hope the company that invented it made a lot of money from it.

Bob Engelhardt <BobEngelhardt@comcast.net>: Nov 30 10:35AM -0500 On 11/28/2021 7:28 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote: > wire strand and wrap the tinsel with the fine wire. To give it more > strength, I would continue wrapping around any remaining insulation. > After wrapping, apply solder.   I remember that stuff. I specifically remember trying to solder it and failing. When I saw the tinsel in this ear bud cord I immediately thought of that phone cord & anticipated a lot of grief. Your solution sounds like even if it hadn't wetted the tinsel, it would have made a mechanical connection. Whatever works.   From the photo, you might need to > remove some of the solder you added.   Actually I had to re-do, so there might not be as much. But it's done, so removing some is not in the cards. Why, though, should I have done it?   Thanks

Bob Engelhardt <BobEngelhardt@comcast.net>: Nov 30 10:38AM -0500 On 11/29/2021 5:34 AM, Liz Tuddenham wrote: > solder that is already saturated with copper, such as "Savbit".   > It rarely causes a problem with normal work, but becomes significant in > the repair of moving coil meters and similar fine work.   I didn't measure the strands, but 8 of them twisted together made a 0.01" diameter conductor. Pretty fine. Time will tell, but with any luck I'll be dead before it's a problem.   Thanks

liz@poppyrecords.invalid.invalid (Liz Tuddenham): Nov 30 04:19PM > I didn't measure the strands, but 8 of them twisted together made a > 0.01" diameter conductor. Pretty fine. Time will tell, but with any > luck I'll be dead before it's a problem.   I really hope I have misunderstood your reply: the copper dissolves during soldering, not afterwards; so unless you are doing something remarkably careless, you should still be alive at the end of it.   :-)   -- ~ Liz Tuddenham ~ (Remove the ".invalid"s and add ".co.uk" to reply) www.poppyrecords.co.uk

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Three Jeeps <jjhudak4@gmail.com>: Nov 27 09:12AM -0800 > BTW - I want to use this for its size & flexibility, to attach an LED to > be fed into small spaces for illumination.   > Thanks, Bob   Some sort of chemical etch to remove the enamel would be ideal but I don't know of any. Maybe some experienced ppl that have done this and that hang out here can be of help. What has worked for me is to use some extremely fine sandpaper, e.g. >500 grit and gently drag it across the strands. It is a delicate balance of using enough force to mechanically remove the enamel and not stress/break the strands. I've also use a exacto/modeling knife to scrape away the enamel but not nicking the wire to the point of breaking it is tricky. A magnifying glass comes in hands for this kind of work.   You can then use flux to help remove remaining impurities & enamel when soldering. Wrapping the strands around a thicker piece of copper conductor, tie in place with a piece of copper wire to secure it may be helpful. There is also a technique where thin solder is wrapped around the joint, heat the wires and at some point the solder will melt.   I don't know of any crimp that would work in this situation as they use mechanical force to make a connection. With this fine a wire, I don't think it would hold up. Good luck J

Ralph Mowery <rmowery42@charter.net>: Nov 27 12:23PM -0500 In article <gQqoJ.126330$IW4.67570@fx48.iad>, BobEngelhardt@comcast.net says... > error if somebody has experience with this.   > BTW - I want to use this for its size & flexibility, to attach an LED to > be fed into small spaces for illumination.   Depending on the varnish there are several ways to get it off not counting the scrapeing . Some will burn the varnish off with the heat of the soldering iron. On others I have taken a butane lighter and burnt off the insulation then clean off the burnt part.

"malua mada!" <fritzo2ster@gmail.com>: Nov 27 12:06PM -0800 > counting the scrapeing . Some will burn the varnish off with the heat > of the soldering iron. On others I have taken a butane lighter and > burnt off the insulation then clean off the burnt part.   Most varnish will break down at soldering temperature. To get up to temp work against a firm insulating surface ( newspaper) (rather than working in mid-air) so you get good pressure and heat transfer. Tin the wires the same way. having extra flux to brush on may help.

Bob Engelhardt <BobEngelhardt@comcast.net>: Nov 28 09:46AM -0500 On 11/27/2021 11:03 AM, Liz Tuddenham wrote: > My experience with trying to connect enamel-coated wire (much thicker > gauge than yours) to a 'chocolate block' terminal was that the screw cut > through the copper before it punctured the enamel. ...   That saves me some time & frustration of trying it myself, thanks.   > through it and fill it with solder. This usually results in a > connection, especially if you scrape the wire a bit while it is > surrounded by molten solder.   Great idea. Even if the strands are solderable, this could be a good way to manage such small strands.   > If that is a bit too big for your purposes, you could try something > similar by lacing the wire through a solder blob on a small piece of > perforated Veroboard.   Maybe as the last resort :-)

Bob Engelhardt <BobEngelhardt@comcast.net>: Nov 28 09:55AM -0500 On 11/27/2021 12:12 PM, Three Jeeps wrote: > Some sort of chemical etch to remove the enamel would be ideal but I don't know of any. ...   I have a bottle of methylene chloride (the stuff good paint strippers used to be made with) - it would be worth a try.   > What has worked for me is to use some extremely fine sandpaper, e.g. >500 grit and gently drag it across the strands. It is a delicate balance of using enough force to mechanically remove the enamel and not stress/break the strands. I've also use a exacto/modeling knife to scrape away the enamel but not nicking the wire to the point of breaking it is tricky. A magnifying glass comes in hands for this kind of work.   "it is tricky" indeed - I have had the frustration of trying. I might come to being desperate enough to do it again.   ... > There is also a technique where thin solder is wrapped around the joint, heat the wires and at some point the solder will melt.   That would be a good way to keep all those tiny strands in place   > I don't know of any crimp that would work in this situation as they use mechanical force to make a connection. With this fine a wire, I don't think it would hold up.   I agree   Thanks for the help

Bob Engelhardt <BobEngelhardt@comcast.net>: Nov 28 09:58AM -0500 On 11/27/2021 12:23 PM, Ralph Mowery wrote: > counting the scrapeing . Some will burn the varnish off with the heat > of the soldering iron. On others I have taken a butane lighter and > burnt off the insulation then clean off the burnt part.   I'll try the soldering iron. I suspect that any flame might destroy the copper along with the varnish - it is really thin. Either way, the burnt residue would have to be dealt with. RA flux might do it.   Thanks

Bob Engelhardt <BobEngelhardt@comcast.net>: Nov 28 10:03AM -0500 On 11/27/2021 3:06 PM, malua mada! wrote: >> of the soldering iron. On others I have taken a butane lighter and >> burnt off the insulation then clean off the burnt part.   > Most varnish will break down at soldering temperature. To get up to temp work against a firm insulating surface ( newspaper) (rather than working in mid-air) so you get good pressure and heat transfer. Tin the wires the same way. having extra flux to brush on may help.   Heat is beginning to sound like the best approach, thanks.

Bob Engelhardt <BobEngelhardt@comcast.net>: Nov 28 10:06AM -0500 Thanks "guys". I'll followup with my results.

root <NoEMail@home.org>: Nov 28 04:09PM > BTW - I want to use this for its size & flexibility, to attach an LED to > be fed into small spaces for illumination.   > Thanks, Bob   With earphone cables it has been my experience that you can simply solder the wires without stripping them. The coating seems to vanish under the solder flux.

Chuck <chuck23@dejanews.net>: Nov 28 10:14AM -0600 On Sun, 28 Nov 2021 09:55:34 -0500, Bob Engelhardt   >> I don't know of any crimp that would work in this situation as they use mechanical force to make a connection. With this fine a wire, I don't think it would hold up.   >I agree   >Thanks for the help Methylene chloride is what we used as a stripper when we soldered ends on Monster rca cables.

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Mike Hooker <mhooker32@gmail.com>: Nov 25 11:18AM -0800 > On Sunday, November 7, 2021 at 3:21:43 PM UTC-5, palli...@gmail.com wrote:   > > Drop dead.   > You and Sloman make all Australians look like fools.   i got the scope working. it was a combination of two things i believe. it doesnt have an internal trigger, i was triggering it with a d cell battery. that would give me a brief trace, enough to see it wasnt full screen. i found an open 470k resistor for a horizontal drive tube and replaced it. after replacing it, triggering it with the battery, the trace line looked full screen. i was happy, and took it from from where i work ( a railroad) to test on my truck. when i did, i got nothing. i m like WTF? after beating the internet bushes, i found the assembly manual for the unit. it was gold. it showed how to troubleshoot it using a jumper to generate a constant trace line, and another jumper to get vertical defection. it also had some scope patterns at various tube pins. after going over it, i was missing a 220 v waveform . i found a thin solid core wire from the 340V rail to a lug on a horizonal tube detached. didnt even know it was there .it was buried, hard to see, and right up against lug, but broken off. probably broke off when i brought it home. i might have compromised it replacing the open resistor, one end was on the same lug. there was also a helpul video on youtube about how defection place on a crt work. i learned a lot. i never repaired anything tube, or crt's with deflection plates, only yokes. anyway, a few people here gave good advice , one guy was a total dick, as he usually is here. thanks to all who helped.

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Nov 25 12:53PM -0800 mhoo...@gmail.com wrote: ==================== > that would give me a brief trace, enough to see it wasnt full screen. > i found an open 470k resistor for a horizontal drive tube and replaced it. > after replacing it, triggering it with the battery, the trace line looked full screen.   ** I posted this advice over 3 weeks ago !!   " Try checking all the resistors in the horizontal circuits - after the scope has been off for 15 mins. One might have gone high or open. " Seems the cockhead OP * finally* took note of it. --------------------------------------------------------------------------------- > never repaired anything tube, or crt's with deflection plates, only yokes.   ** It that a yoke ?   > anyway, a few people here gave good advice , one guy was a total dick,     ** Yeah - Terrell is a complete asshole.     ..... Phil

"Peter W." <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Nov 25 01:53PM -0800 ....one guy was a total dick, as he usually is here. thanks to all who helped.   That would be the Drongo from Down Under.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Nov 25 02:17PM -0800 Peter Wanker = rabid lunatic wrote: ---------------------------------------------------- > ....one guy was a total dick, as he usually is here. thanks to all who helped.   > That would be the Drongo from Down Under.   ** ROTFLMAO !!   The OP is clueless, utter moron. So an instant pal for Peter Wanker.

legg <legg@nospam.magma.ca>: Nov 25 09:28PM -0500 On Thu, 25 Nov 2021 11:18:39 -0800 (PST), Mike Hooker   >> You and Sloman make all Australians look like fools.   >i got the scope working. it was a combination of two things i believe. it doesnt have an internal trigger, i was triggering it with a d cell battery. that would give me a brief trace, enough to see it wasnt full screen. i found an open 470k resistor for a horizontal drive tube and replaced it. after replacing it, triggering it with the battery, the trace line looked full screen. i was happy, and took it from from where i work ( a railroad) to test on my truck. when i did, i got nothing. i m like WTF? after beating the internet bushes, i found the assembly manual for the unit. it was gold. it showed how to troubleshoot it using a jumper to generate a constant trace line, and another jumper to get vertical defection. it also had some scope patterns at various tube pins. after going over it, i was missing a 220 v waveform . i found a thin solid core wire from the 340V rail to a lug on a horizonal tube detached. didnt even know it was there .it was buried, hard to see, and >right up against lug, but broken off. probably broke off when i brought it home. i might have compromised it replacing the open resistor, one end was on the same lug. there was also a helpul video on youtube about how defection place on a crt work. i learned a lot. i never repaired anything tube, or crt's with deflection plates, only yokes. anyway, a few people here gave good advice , one guy was a total dick, as he usually is here. thanks to all who helped.     Good to hear this.   happy scoping.   RL

"Peter W." <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Nov 25 02:01PM -0800 We have four (4) carpets made in Egypt that we purchased in Saudi Arabia. They are of a typical "oriental" pattern and may be seen here:   https://images.rugimg.com/3119204/3119204_image_1010.jpg?width=2000&quality=55&height=2000&fit=bounds   However, they are as much an Oriental Rug as 'Acrylic' lacquer is lacquer. Being as they are made of polypropylene on a machine. Lacquer, to anyone that restores vintage radio is *only* a liquid made of shellac dissolved in alcohol. Synthetic 'lacquer' is entirely something else, of course.   Drongo: Define your terms; it will look less the idiot that you are.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Nov 25 02:14PM -0800 Peter Wanker is a Ridiculous IDIOT wrote: ========================================   > We have four (4) carpets made in Egypt that we purchased in Saudi Arabia.   ** But do any of them fly ? If so - go take a ride on one.   > Drongo: Define your terms;   ** FFS you illiterate, autistic bloody fool - read what I *actually* wrote !!!     ..... Phil

"Peter W." <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Nov 25 05:06PM -0800 As it happens, you wrote a whole lot of garbage to make yourself look useful. But had nothing to do with the question at hand.   Drongo:   A fool, a simpleton, an idiot.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

bitrex <user@example.net>: Nov 25 12:32PM -0500 On 11/25/2021 9:28 AM, Tim R wrote:   >> John :-#)# >> --   > Just curious. That's an older 61 key synth, per google. (I'd not heard of a 54 key keyboard so I looked it up.) So why are there only 54 switches for 61 keys?   Don't think he's talking about the keyboard (which then was probably using those rubber cup-type membrane switches that also get gunked up, but can often be cleaned up to work nice again with some isopropyl), those are the 54 buttons on the user interface:   <https://img.audiofanzine.com/images/u/product/normal/roland-jv-80-851.jpg>   Enormously complex and poorly-organized user interfaces are something of a Roland/Japanese signature, the claim goes Japanese buyers love studying user manuals.   Nice-sounding synths, though, if you can figure them out.

Rayner Lucas <usenet202101@magic-cookie.co.ukNOSPAMPLEASE>: Nov 25 07:35PM In article <196f12fc-8cb7-4f4f-bd9d-c33de47d63b7n@googlegroups.com>, timothy42bach@gmail.com says...   > Just curious. That's an older 61 key synth, per google. (I'd not heard > of a 54 key keyboard so I looked it up.) So why are there only 54 > switches for 61 keys?   I'm guessing that's the tactile switches used for selecting various functions, rather than the keys themselves (although I count 56 push- buttons rather than 54). This seems to be a known failure mode on some older Roland synths; there are certainly maintenance kits out there with the appropriate numbers of switches.   I should really get around to fixing my two broken D-50s, which do have temperamental buttons, but also have more immediate problems (one has random bursts of noise, the other has been previously "repaired" by someone whose desoldering technique could hardly have been more destructive if they'd used a blowtorch and chisel).   R

bitrex <user@example.net>: Nov 25 03:03PM -0500 On 11/25/2021 2:35 PM, Rayner Lucas wrote: > someone whose desoldering technique could hardly have been more > destructive if they'd used a blowtorch and chisel).   > R   My impression of Roland from the 80s/early 90s is that quality control wasn't great, they seem to have more problems at this point. Yamaha stuff were tanks

Andy Burns <usenet@andyburns.uk>: Nov 25 07:37PM Saperstein wrote:   >  Although I have it on a timer now so it doesn't heat continually, I'd rather > go with something weight activated so that, once the cat steps onto it, it comes > on and is otherwise off.   Would that "work" as far as the cat is concerned?   i.e. does it only lay on the pad because it's already warm from the timer, or do you think it has it formed a habit that it'll continue to use it, even if it's cold when it lies down?

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Saperstein <none@nowhere.com>: Nov 25 09:34AM -0500 I have been using a spare heating pad to keep an outdoor feral cat warm. Although I have it on a timer now so it doesn't heat continually, I'd rather go with something weight activated so that, once the cat steps onto it, it comes on and is otherwise off. Could I fashion something myself that would do the job? If not, or as an alternative, what are some ready made options that aren't costly? Thankyou.

KenW <ken1943@invalid.net>: Nov 25 08:50AM -0700 On Thu, 25 Nov 2021 09:34:37 -0500, Saperstein <none@nowhere.com> wrote:   >onto it, it comes on and is otherwise off. Could I fashion something >myself that would do the job? If not, or as an alternative, what are >some ready made options that aren't costly? Thankyou.   Google >heat activated heating pad< does get hits     KenW

KenW <ken1943@invalid.net>: Nov 25 08:52AM -0700 On Thu, 25 Nov 2021 09:34:37 -0500, Saperstein <none@nowhere.com> wrote:   >onto it, it comes on and is otherwise off. Could I fashion something >myself that would do the job? If not, or as an alternative, what are >some ready made options that aren't costly? Thankyou.   Just check if waterproof     KenW

John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Nov 24 02:26PM -0800 My son-in-law asked me to look at his JV80 Roland keyboard as it didn't seem to work properly.   Found the operators and service manuals on line and discovered the keyboard wouldn't go into self test. Took back off and started checking the switches - found that ALL 54 push-button PC mount switches had failed or were marginal at best.   Replaced all the switches (gotta love single sided phenolic PCBs...) and now it works a treat.   So if you have any musician friends with wonky keyboards the solution is often simple...   John :-#)# --

Tim R <timothy42bach@gmail.com>: Nov 25 06:28AM -0800 On Wednesday, November 24, 2021 at 5:26:29 PM UTC-5, John Robertson wrote: > often simple...   > John :-#)# > --   Just curious. That's an older 61 key synth, per google. (I'd not heard of a 54 key keyboard so I looked it up.) So why are there only 54 switches for 61 keys?

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Nov 24 10:08AM -0800 >I have a need to use some nichrome wire for an outdoor project where it >will be partially exposed to the elements (mainly humidity extremes but >also might get wet at times). Is it corrosion proof? Thank you.   My house has a nichrome wire bathroom wall heater. No corrosion in about 50 years in a rather wet and humid bathroom environment. However, I'm not sure what nichrome will do in a marine (salt) environment. My guess(tm) is that it's ok but it might help to check if you're using it in a marine environment.         -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com PO Box 272 http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Ben Lomond CA 95005-0272 Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

"Peter W." <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Nov 24 10:58AM -0800 > ** Can't you coat is in a lacquer to keep water off ? > Will it get hot?   Nichrome. Lacquer. Water. Think about it. "Water damages lacquer by turning it milky and hazy. Finishers call this milkiness "blushing" when it occurs while the finish is being applied. Water also can be responsible for the white rings produced by hot or wet glasses and pots left standing on a lacquered tabletop."   Nichrome is chosen, typically, for its heating quality under power. Lacquer is generally not a heat-resistant product. Lacquer is also not a water-resistant product as normally formulated.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Nov 24 12:03PM -0800 Peter W. wrote: ------------------------ > > ** Can't you coat is in a lacquer to keep water off ? > > Will it get hot?   > Nichrome. Lacquer. Water. Think about it.   ** Acrylic lacquer is waterproof.   > Nichrome is chosen, typically, for its heating quality under power.   ** In electronics it is used for its zero tempco of resistance.   FFS I posted question, not statements.   YOU should do the same - asshole.

"Peter W." <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Nov 25 04:47AM -0800 "Acrylic" lacquer is not lacquer.   The correct formula Nichrome to the use needs no protection. It would make sense to choose the correct formula rather than to go to heroic measures to protect the wrong one.   Heating would obviate the applied 'protection' in any case.   Eschew needless complexity - William of Occam   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Nov 25 04:54AM -0800 Peter Wanker is not Human wrote: ====================   > "Acrylic" lacquer is not lacquer.   ** ROTFLMAFAO !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!   > The correct formula Nichrome to the use needs no protection.   ** What use ?????   > Heating would obviate the applied 'protection' in any case.   ** Bollocks .   Wot a fucking nut case IDIOT       ... Phil

Michael Terrell <terrell.michael.a@gmail.com>: Nov 24 09:48AM -0800 > I'd be inclined to just do an easy work around. Two 12V (7812/7912) ICs can do all of that with almost no rewiring, particularly if you don't need the supplies to be adjustable. The two ICs will even mount on the heatsinks in place of those two regulator transistors.   Two issues. Two separate regulators don't track, and the 1A limit may be too low.   Non tracking regulation can case excessive drift and affect gain problems in the Vertical amplifiers.   A good lab grade bench supply could be used for testing, but I wouldn't use one rated at under 3A   I've done a lot of work on complex Dc circuits where a small difference in the supply rails from what was specified will cause it to fail. The required bench supply was to the milivolt, to achieve the maximum allowed1.5 milivolt at the output of the 14 op amp gain control subsystem. Your test equipment has to be better than what you work on.

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Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Nov 23 11:36AM -0800 Ruk wrote: =========   > I have a need to use some nichrome wire for an outdoor project where it > will be partially exposed to the elements (mainly humidity extremes but > also might get wet at times). Is it corrosion proof? Thank you.   ** Can't you coat is in a lacquer to keep water off ? Will it get hot?   So many questions, so few answers.   .... Phil

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three_jeeps <jjhudak@gmail.com>: Nov 19 10:36AM -0800 On Thursday, November 18, 2021 at 2:02:39 PM UTC-5, John Keiser wrote: > fails in arcade games and Roland devices] I will wait for a Chinese IC > marketed as a replacement. [Fraud for $2? Maybe.] > I will report back with the result next year.   There are a number of online cross reference resources that you might want to look into. Here are a few: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwjHsujbhKX0AhUIq3IEHfckALwQFnoECAQQAQ&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.digchip.com%2Fdatasheets%2Fcross_reference.php&usg=AOvVaw0ElL3bUTnek3Be3bwIbWpD   Which turns up this: https://www.digchip.com/datasheets/cross_reference.php (different pkg, similar characteristics)   Another site: https://www.sourceresearch.com/cross-reference.cfm lists some alternatives, but no indication of how compatible they are, e.g. form factor, electrical, thermal, etc. Alternatives include: MC1468L SG4501J ECG921   I remember the Mot part - used it back in the day. It seemed to be used a lot. Of course, you would want to compare datasheets to ensure compatibility in your situation.   Way back, there used to be a pub ICMaster that (from my perspective) had a pretty good CR section. I don't think they are around anymore or what the equivalent is now days.   Good luck J

John Keiser <johnkeiser@juno.com>: Nov 19 01:12PM -1000 On 11/19/2021 8:36 AM, three_jeeps wrote:   > Way back, there used to be a pub ICMaster that (from my perspective) had a pretty good CR section. I don't think they are around anymore or what the equivalent is now days.   > Good luck > J   I was aware of the Motorola IC. SG4501 looks promising as well. Alibaba indicates that my TA7179P has shipped so it may arrive many weeks sooner than previously anticipated. Good to have alternatives. Thank you.

legg <legg@nospam.magma.ca>: Nov 20 11:17AM -0500 On Fri, 19 Nov 2021 13:12:13 -1000, John Keiser <johnkeiser@juno.com> wrote:   <snip> >weeks sooner than previously anticipated. >Good to have alternatives. >Thank you.   I can do an MC1468L, if you get stuck.   Datecode 8006 ;-)   RL

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John Keiser <johnkeiser@juno.com>: Nov 18 09:02AM -1000 On 11/14/2021 2:20 PM, John Keiser wrote: > Am I on the right track? > What should I do next? > Thank you for any advice.   With the excellent advice and encouragement of Mr. Terrell I believe the problems are caused by a defective regulator IC [TA7179P]. The part is long obsolete but before brewing a work around [same IC fails in arcade games and Roland devices] I will wait for a Chinese IC marketed as a replacement. [Fraud for $2? Maybe.] I will report back with the result next year.

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Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Nov 17 01:03PM -0800 terrell....@gmail.com wrote: =======================   > Via email he said that there is 40 volts of ripple at C1213.     ** As measured with a DMM on AC volts ? Means the p-p value is about 150V .   That cap is open cct. Would explain a great deal of no sweep.     ..... Phil

legg <legg@nospam.magma.ca>: Nov 17 02:44PM -0500 The Daly-Antra types of BMS (Battery Monitor Switch) require charging current before they'll turn on.   Unfortunately, most 'smart' inverter/chargers won't turn on until the battery is connected, so guess what happens when a Daly-Antra BMS is used?   Nada. That's what happens when a Daly-Antra . . . .   They supply a Blue-Tooth dongle that plugs into their UART port, for remote monitoring. This has a press-button that allows the BMS to 'start'.   The BMS isn't a source of energy, in itself - cannot generate a fault condition.   It's supposed to react to low/high voltages on battery cells, or overcurrent on charge or discharge. What it's NOT supposed to do is complain if there's no charger present.   A manual on/off switch might be a useful feature, but this BT dongle addition only works the one way and it doesn't remember what it's supposed to do, though there's always power supplied when it is supposed to function.   A USB connection is provided to talk to a PC, to set/adjust monitoring limits. It uses the SAME UART port as the USB dongle. See the problem there . . . . ?   RL

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Three Jeeps <jjhudak4@gmail.com>: Nov 16 05:25PM -0800 On Sunday, November 14, 2021 at 7:20:46 PM UTC-5, John Keiser wrote: > Am I on the right track? > What should I do next? > Thank you for any advice. the PS outputs 150V, +/-12, +5 vdc. Do they *all* drop 50%? All rise 15% no load? If so, that suggests a bad transformer or perhaps a bridge rectifier lost a leg. a scope would help with diagnosing the rectifier. Actually don't even need a scope for the BR. DMM will work. Looks like everything else in the PS can be troubleshot with a DMM & ESR meter for finding bad caps. BTW IC u1212 is a TA7179 (not 7199)but it is a dual track regulator. Interesting that they use the sense lines. J

Michael Terrell <terrell.michael.a@gmail.com>: Nov 17 07:11AM -0800 On Tuesday, November 16, 2021 at 8:26:01 PM UTC-5, Three Jeeps wrote:   > the PS outputs 150V, +/-12, +5 VDC. Do they *all* drop 50%? All rise 15% no load? If so, that suggests a bad transformer or perhaps a bridge rectifier lost a leg. a scope would help with diagnosing the rectifier. Actually don't even need a scope for the BR. DMM will work. Looks like everything else in the PS can be troubleshot with a DMM & ESR meter for finding bad caps. > BTW IC u1212 is a TA7179 (not 7199)but it is a dual track regulator. Interesting that they use the sense lines.   I misread the part number on the schematic. I am currently waiting for cataract surgery on both eyes. The other voltages are referenced to the +/- outputs of the TA7179P. I've never seen a regulator with tracking inputs that could be left floating.   Via email he said that there is 40 volts of ripple at C1213.

Edward Hernandez <dtgamer99@gmail.com>: Nov 16 07:28PM The John Doe troll stated the following in message-id   > The troll doesn't even know how to format a USENET post...   And the John Doe troll stated the following in message-id <sg3kr7$qt5$1@dont-email.me>:   > The reason Bozo cannot figure out how to get Google to keep from > breaking its lines in inappropriate places is because Bozo is > CLUELESS...   And yet, the clueless John Doe troll has itself posted yet another incorrectly formatted USENET posting on Tue, 16 Nov 2021 14:53:35 -0000 (UTC) in message-id <sn0glf$vk$1@dont-email.me>.   U2W+WJi4KPlT

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John Doe <always.look@message.header>: Nov 16 02:53PM The nym-shifting stalker Corvid/Edward/others is upset because it will never again troll USENET without its nyms being exposed.   Corvid perpetually proves why it must nym-shift. Its mission, as always... annoy everybody.   see also... =?UTF-8?Q?C=c3=b6rvid?= <bl@ckbirds.org> =?UTF-8?B?8J+QriBDb3dzIGFyZSBOaWNlIPCfkK4=?= <nice@cows.moo> Banders <snap@mailchute.com> Covid-19 <always.look@message.header> Corvid <bl@ckbirds.net> Corvid <bl@ckbirds.org> Cows Are Nice <cows@nice.moo> Cows are nice <moo@cows.org> Cows are Nice <nice@cows.moo> dogs <dogs@home.com> Edward H. <dtgamer99@gmail.com> Edward Hernandez <dtgamer99@gmail.com> Great Pumpkin <pumpkin@patch.net> Jose Curvo <jcurvo@mymail.com> Local Favorite <how2recycle@palomar.info> Peter Weiner <dtgamer99@gmail.com> Sea <freshness@coast.org> Standard Poodle <standard@poodle.com> triangles <build@home.com> and others...   --

vjp2.at@at.BioStrategist.dot.dot.com: Nov 15 05:28PM I have a 212 number I bought way back and want to shut down my google account where it is parked. Where could I park the phone number, and maybe use it for text and voice mail. I have no celfon. I had a brick phone in 1990 but cut off all cellular in 2009.     -- Vasos Panagiotopoulos, Columbia'81+, Reagan, Mozart, Pindus blog: panix.com/~vjp2/ruminatn.htm - = - web: panix.com/~vjp2/vasos.htm ---{Nothing herein constitutes advice. Everything fully disclaimed.}---

"Peter W." <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Nov 15 10:52AM -0800 https://www.numberbarn.com/number-parking?campaignid=190305805&adgroupid=55230571859&network=g&device=c&matchtype=b&keyword=&utm_campaign=park-and-forward&utm_content=&gclid=CjwKCAiAp8iMBhAqEiwAJb94zxB0rl40St7VV2FG9kizETavy6RgAbUYKaI2XZdlnhlHQEyqPNqKhxoCpnEQAvD_BwE   The internet is your friend.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

KenW <ken1943@invalid.net>: Nov 15 12:36PM -0700 On Mon, 15 Nov 2021 17:28:06 -0000 (UTC), >account where it is parked. Where could I park the phone number, >and maybe use it for text and voice mail. I have no celfon. >I had a brick phone in 1990 but cut off all cellular in 2009.   Those 212 # are worth their weight in gold these days. All were used 15+ years ago.     KenW

vjp2.at@at.BioStrategist.dot.dot.com: Nov 16 07:31AM In <ajd5pg137kvl11q9sdip7gnth16h59r723@4ax.com> by KenW <ken1943@invalid.net> on Mon, 15 Nov 2021 14:36:11 we perused: *+-On Mon, 15 Nov 2021 17:28:06 -0000 (UTC), *+-vjp2.at@at.BioStrategist.dot.dot.com wrote:   *+->I have a 212 number I bought way back and want to shut down my google *+->account where it is parked. Where could I park the phone number, *+->and maybe use it for text and voice mail. I have no celfon. *+->I had a brick phone in 1990 but cut off all cellular in 2009.   *+-Those 212 # are worth their weight in gold these days. All were used *+-15+ years ago.     *+-KenW   I paid $100 for it ca 2012. I had given up my prior when I dumped my celfon in 2009 and got the new one as prep for a new celfon, but I never got a celfon again. I think the web site was get-a-212.com   -- Vasos Panagiotopoulos, Columbia'81+, Reagan, Mozart, Pindus blog: panix.com/~vjp2/ruminatn.htm - = - web: panix.com/~vjp2/vasos.htm ---{Nothing herein constitutes advice. Everything fully disclaimed.}---

sc6lou <f6ceedb9c75b52f7fcc0a55cf0cfbf5d_1189@example.com>: Nov 16 04:37AM responding to http://www.electrondepot.com/repair/trygon-electronics-hr40-750-manual-156644-.htm , sc6lou wrote: Hello I need to replace the meters they are missing and I need the schematic also. Thanks   you can send to tursiny@gmail   --

Michael Terrell <terrell.michael.a@gmail.com>: Nov 15 09:28PM -0800 On Monday, November 15, 2021 at 11:37:06 PM UTC-5, sc6lou wrote:   > Hello I need to replace the meters they are missing and I need the schematic > also. Thanks   > you can send to tursiny@gmail   This thread is over five years old.

Michael Terrell <terrell.michael.a@gmail.com>: Nov 15 12:08PM -0800 On Monday, November 15, 2021 at 10:39:57 AM UTC-5, John Keiser wrote: > I do not have a scope. > I am measuring the +150, +55, +21, +12, +5 and -12 rails.   > How would you proceed without a scope?   Are they all changing about the same percentage? That would indicate a problem with the transformer or line wiring.

John Keiser <johnkeiser@juno.com>: Nov 15 11:23AM -1000 On 11/15/2021 10:08 AM, Michael Terrell wrote: >> I am measuring the +150, +55, +21, +12, +5 and -12 rails.   >> How would you proceed without a scope?   > Are they all changing about the same percentage? That would indicate a problem with the transformer or line wiring.   That was my thinking as well, especially since the PS is divided into 3 discrete circuits. The line side is steady at 120V. The voltage adjustment plug is set correctly. I reflowed the transformer connections but no joy.

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Nov 15 05:23PM -0800 John Keiser wrote: ==================   > This old oscilloscope was given to me and I am attempting to restore as > a pandemic hobby. I am aware of the HV dangers and take precautions.   ** But have no test gear and no experience ? > The screen does display a green blob that can be moved with positioning > controls but no trace.   ** Tells me there is little wrong. Do you have vertical response to an input signal?   > I suspect the transformer based power supply.   ** Why ??   Do you know how to even use this scope ?   4/5 channel, 100MHz. It sure ain't no basic model.     ..... Phil

Michael Terrell <terrell.michael.a@gmail.com>: Nov 15 09:26PM -0800 > Do you know how to even use this scope ?   > 4/5 channel, 100MHz. > It sure ain't no basic model.   The power supply voltages are way off and unstable. I'm helping him by email.

Lloyd Carmel <f6ceedb9c75b52f7fcc0a55cf0cfbf5d_1207@example.com>: Nov 16 04:37AM responding to http://www.electrondepot.com/repair/grundig-am-fm-portable-transistor-305-troubleshooting-138324-.htm , Lloyd Carmel wrote: Lenny, you are my hero.   I recently had the same problem with my Grundig Transistor 305.   The same solution worked like a charm.   Lloyd       klem kedidelhopper wrote:     --

frankcoproductsllc <f6ceedb9c75b52f7fcc0a55cf0cfbf5d_1200@example.com>: Nov 16 04:37AM responding to http://www.electrondepot.com/repair/miller-aerowave-not-working-amps-set-to-high-value-and-cann-168489-.htm , frankcoproductsllc wrote:   > https://www.machinerymoverschicago.com/blog/Miller-Aerowave-Welder-Problem/   > Would anyone suggest a solution? Also does anyone know a good welder > repair shop on the Chicago area? Thanks   If you are still interested or anyone who see's this post is having issues with their aerowave. My company frankcoproductsllc.com repairs these back to factory specification.   --

bronek <f6ceedb9c75b52f7fcc0a55cf0cfbf5d_1190@example.com>: Nov 16 04:37AM responding to http://www.electrondepot.com/repair/help-hacking-a-laser-tape-measure-182152-.htm , bronek wrote: int get_segment(int SegmentNo) // return 1if LCD segment SegmentNo is ON { int group,byte,bit; group = SegmentNo / 80; byte = (SegmentNo / 8) % 10; bit = SegmentNo % 8; uint8_t Bit = (1 << bit); uint8_t c = raw_segment_data[group * 10 + byte]; if(c & Bit) return 1; return 0;   } uint8_t raw_segment_data[40]; void analyze_data(void) // analyze 71bytes laser_buffer[71] { uint8_t data[6]; uint8_t decimal[8]; uint8_t buffer[32]; float distance = 0; long int distance_mm = 0; static long int last_distance_mm = 0; uint8_t c; int i; // remove LCD_commands, only use LCD data for(i = 0; i < 10;i++) raw_segment_data[i + 0] = laser_buffer[22+i]; for(i = 0; i < 10;i++) raw_segment_data[i + 10] = laser_buffer[35+i]; for(i = 0; i < 10;i++) raw_segment_data[i + 20] = laser_buffer[48+i]; for(i = 0; i < 10;i++) raw_segment_data[i + 30] = laser_buffer[61+i]; memset(data,0,6); // sign minus have SegmenNo 59, I do not use it if(get_segment(300)) data[0] |= 0x02 | 0x04; if(get_segment(61)) data[1] |= 0x01; if(get_segment(141)) data[1] |= 0x02; if(get_segment(221)) data[1] |= 0x04; if(get_segment(301)) data[1] |= 0x08; if(get_segment(220)) data[1] |= 0x10; if(get_segment(60)) data[1] |= 0x20; if(get_segment(140)) data[1] |= 0x40;   if(get_segment(63)) data[2] |= 0x01; if(get_segment(143)) data[2] |= 0x02; if(get_segment(223)) data[2] |= 0x04; if(get_segment(303)) data[2] |= 0x08; if(get_segment(222)) data[2] |= 0x10; if(get_segment(62)) data[2] |= 0x20; if(get_segment(142)) data[2] |= 0x40;   if(get_segment(49)) data[3] |= 0x01; if(get_segment(129)) data[3] |= 0x02; if(get_segment(209)) data[3] |= 0x04; if(get_segment(289)) data[3] |= 0x08; if(get_segment(288)) data[3] |= 0x10; if(get_segment(128)) data[3] |= 0x20; if(get_segment(208)) data[3] |= 0x40;   if(get_segment(51)) data[4] |= 0x01; if(get_segment(131)) data[4] |= 0x02; if(get_segment(211)) data[4] |= 0x04; if(get_segment(291)) data[4] |= 0x08; if(get_segment(290)) data[4] |= 0x10; if(get_segment(130)) data[4] |= 0x20; if(get_segment(210)) data[4] |= 0x40;   if(get_segment(53)) data[5] |= 0x01; if(get_segment(133)) data[5] |= 0x02; if(get_segment(213)) data[5] |= 0x04; if(get_segment(293)) data[5] |= 0x08; if(get_segment(292)) data[5] |= 0x10; if(get_segment(132)) data[5] |= 0x20; if(get_segment(212)) data[5] |= 0x40;   for(i = 0; i < 6; i++) { c = data[i]; if(c == 0x00) decimal[i] = '0'; // Prazdne uvodne miesta else if(c == 0x3F) decimal[i] = '0'; else if (c == 0x06) decimal[i] = '1'; else if (c == 0x6D) decimal[i] = '2'; else if (c == 0x4F) decimal[i] = '3'; else if (c == 0x56) decimal[i] = '4'; else if (c == 0x5B) decimal[i] = '5'; else if (c == 0x7B) decimal[i] = '6'; else if (c == 0x0E) decimal[i] = '7'; else if (c == 0x7F) decimal[i] = '8'; else if (c == 0x5F) decimal[i] = '9'; else decimal[i] = 'X'; } decimal[6] = 0; distance_mm = atol((char*)decimal); if(distance_mm == last_distance_mm) return; last_distance_mm = distance_mm; if(!distance_mm) return; distance = (float)(distance_mm) / 1000; if(get_segment(54) && get_segment(134))// metre i = sprintf((char*)buffer, "%.3f[m]\n\r",distance); if(get_segment(294)) // ft i = sprintf((char*)buffer, "%.3f[m]\n\r",distance * 0.3048); // if(get_segment(214) && get_segment(134)) // inch //i = sprintf((char*)buffer, "Zmen inch na m\n\r"); usart_print(buffer,i); }     --

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