Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 5 updates in 4 topics

robertodonno@gmail.com: Jan 31 01:44AM -0800

On Wednesday, 17 October 2012 16:49:23 UTC+2, Splork wrote:
 
> Need Teac W880RX Schematic or Service Manual. Could only find one that costs as
> much as the unit is worth. Any one able to help?? Usenet reply
 
> Thanks
 
What is the value of a Teac W880RX nowadays ?
 
thanks,
Cursitor Doom <curd@notformail.com>: Jan 30 08:35PM

On Wed, 30 Jan 2019 15:20:07 +0000, Stephen Wolstenholme wrote:
 
 
>>Mike.
 
> Is it an attempt to draw a triangle that represents V = I * R,
> I = V/R, R = V/I
 
You cover up the quantity you need to know and derive it from the other
two left.
 
Why anyone would need a computer for a baby grade problem like this I
simply can't imagine.
 
 
 
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This message may be freely reproduced without limit or charge only via
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Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Jan 30 05:47PM -0600

On 1/30/19 2:35 PM, Cursitor Doom wrote:
> Why anyone would need a computer for a baby grade problem
> like this I simply can't imagine.
 
Two reasons:
1. Tubeguy already said he can't do math.
2. His internet sucks so he needs a local program.
 
I can this stuff in my head, but that doesn't help him any.
 
 
 
--
"I am a river to my people."
Jeff-1.0
WA6FWi
http:foxsmercantile.com
Adrian Caspersz <email@here.invalid>: Jan 30 07:55PM

> to avoid the dash to the toilet. But I am feeling much better today so
> I hope to find the time this afternoon to test all my probes and
> write down all the pertinent info so I can post a cogent message.
 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hmUVo0xVAqE
 
--
Adrian C
siqihuang1993@gmail.com: Jan 30 11:40AM -0800

Send me the file please thanks
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 10 updates in 2 topics

John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Jan 29 11:25AM -0800

On 2019/01/28 3:21 p.m., Jeff Liebermann wrote:
> I could swear I have one, somewhere, maybe. Wannit if I can find it?
 
> Roll your own modern slide chart calculator:
> <https://www.datalizer.com>
 
I have a small collection of those cardboard calculators that I got from
an electronics parts store I bought out:
 
https://www.flippers.com/images/props/Cardboard_Calculators-front.JPG
 
https://www.flippers.com/images/props/Cardboard_Calculators-rear.JPG
 
John :-#)#
 
--
(Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup)
John's Jukes Ltd.
MOVED to #7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3
(604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
www.flippers.com
"Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."
Andy Burns <usenet@andyburns.uk>: Jan 29 07:37PM

John Robertson wrote:
 
> an electronics parts store I bought out:
 
> https://www.flippers.com/images/props/Cardboard_Calculators-front.JPG
> https://www.flippers.com/images/props/Cardboard_Calculators-rear.JPG
 
ITYM
 
<https://www.flippers.com/images/Props/Cardboard_Calculators-front.JPG>
 
and
 
<https://www.flippers.com/images/Props/Cardboard_Calculators-rear.JPG>
Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Jan 29 11:40AM -0800

On Tue, 29 Jan 2019 11:25:16 -0800, John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>
wrote:
 
>https://www.flippers.com/images/props/Cardboard_Calculators-front.JPG
>https://www.flippers.com/images/props/Cardboard_Calculators-rear.JPG
>John :-#)#
 
I get "404 That page doesn't seem to exist... for both URL's.
 
--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
whit3rd <whit3rd@gmail.com>: Jan 29 01:43PM -0800

On Tuesday, January 29, 2019 at 3:14:16 AM UTC-8, Mike Coon wrote:
> > resistor value can be represented by a straight line
 
> And there must be a PDF or XLS etc file that generates log/log charts
> for printing out locally.
 
Yep, that can work; or if you have a shared disk on the network,
a bookmark for file://the-shared-disk/utility/resistor-1to100V-1to100mA.pdf
John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Jan 29 02:00PM -0800

On 2019/01/29 11:40 a.m., Jeff Liebermann wrote:
>> https://www.flippers.com/images/Props/Cardboard_Calculators-rear.JPG
>> John :-#)#
 
> I get "404 That page doesn't seem to exist... for both URL's.
 
Andy caught my typo, used a lower case 'p' for the '/Props' directory.
I've fixed the above links...
 
I knew I should have tested them before posting!
 
John :-#(#
 
--
(Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup)
John's Jukes Ltd.
MOVED to #7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3
(604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
www.flippers.com
"Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."
John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Jan 29 02:01PM -0800

On 2019/01/29 11:25 a.m., John Robertson wrote:
 
> https://www.flippers.com/images/props/Cardboard_Calculators-front.JPG
 
> https://www.flippers.com/images/props/Cardboard_Calculators-rear.JPG
 
> John :-#)#
 
Typo, should be:
 
https://www.flippers.com/images/Props/Cardboard_Calculators-front.JPG
 
https://www.flippers.com/images/Props/Cardboard_Calculators-rear.JPG
 
John :-#(#
 
--
(Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup)
John's Jukes Ltd.
MOVED to #7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3
(604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
www.flippers.com
"Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."
Lucifer <LuciferMorningstar@bigpond.com>: Jan 30 05:51PM +1100


>Is there any Software to calculate Ohms Law and other electronics math?
 
Google.
 
Ohm's law; V
======
I x R
Mike Coon <gravity@mjcoon.plus.com>: Jan 30 02:38PM

In article <f7i25ehl7fhi5jt0g4iqthg7im76ojjaj0@4ax.com>,
LuciferMorningstar@bigpond.com says...
 
> Ohm's law; V
> ======
> I x R
 
That's a law? With no "="?
 
Mike.
Stephen Wolstenholme <steve@easynn.com>: Jan 30 03:20PM

On Wed, 30 Jan 2019 14:38:33 -0000, Mike Coon
>> I x R
 
>That's a law? With no "="?
 
>Mike.
 
Is it an attempt to draw a triangle that represents V = I * R,
I = V/R, R = V/I
 
Steve
 
--
http://www.npsnn.com
"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Jan 29 08:54AM -0800

Parts of the Appian Way are still level.
 
http://www.romeacrosseurope.com/?p=5417#sthash.8ChQejPz.dpbs
 
Simple enough questions:
 
a) Are these paths grouted (mortar between the stones)? That was what initiated the discussion.
b) How deep are the stone paths?
c) What is the size of the stones?
d) Will the climate in your area go from 50F to 4F to 35F to 58F to 24F, include 1" of rain and 2" of snow all in a 96 hour period? That is our forecast this week.
 
My understanding of the climate in the British Isles is, for the most part, that it is damp but pretty benign given the warming by the Gulf Stream. Sure, Scotland and some of the islands to get some extremes, but not quite the variability.
 
Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 17 updates in 7 topics

John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Jan 27 09:51PM -0800

On 2019/01/26 8:36 p.m., Jeff Liebermann wrote:
> <http://www.learnbydestroying.com/jeffl/crud/Paper-Slide-Rule-Calculators.jpg>
> <http://www.learnbydestroying.com/jeffl/crud/Paper-Slide-Rule-Calculators-02.jpg>
> Oddly, I don't seem to have one that does Ohm's Law.
 
There is the old PIRE wheel, or is that too simple for the OP?
 
Of course then you need to use either your head or a calculator - I mean
really, I=E/R, how hard is that?
 
John :-#)#
"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Jan 28 05:37AM -0800

Web-based software is useful to calculate parallel resistors and such-like. There was a discussion in another group about how to hot-switch between two amplifiers, neither of which would like to be unloaded (but for different reasons).
 
Turned out that a parallel high-wattage resistor across the amp outputs would do the trick, after a bit of calculation. Using a web-based calculator greatly sped up the process.
 
http://www.1728.org/resistrs.htm
 
 
Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Jan 28 07:44AM -0600

> Web-based software is useful to calculate parallel resistors
> and such-like.
 
Yabut...Tubeguy wants something he can run on his PC since he
has a shit connection to the web.
 
--
"I am a river to my people."
Jeff-1.0
WA6FWi
http:foxsmercantile.com
"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Jan 28 06:05AM -0800

On Monday, January 28, 2019 at 8:45:04 AM UTC-5, Fox's Mercantile wrote:
> Jeff-1.0
> WA6FWi
> http:foxsmercantile.com
 
https://download.cnet.com/Ohm-s-Law-Free-for-Windows-10/3000-2121_4-77555568.html
 
That took less than a minute.
 
Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Jan 28 08:19AM -0600

> https://download.cnet.com/Ohm-s-Law-Free-for-Windows-10/3000-2121_4-77555568.html
 
> That took less than a minute.
 
Thank you.
 
 
--
"I am a river to my people."
Jeff-1.0
WA6FWi
http:foxsmercantile.com
adrian@poppyrecords.invalid.invalid (Adrian Tuddenham): Jan 28 02:43PM


> Is there any Software to calculate Ohms Law and other electronics math?
 
Basic Ohm's Law calculations can be done on a pocket calculator without
the need for anything more complicated. The biggest pitfall is knowing
*which* voltage or *which* current is actually applied to a particular
resistor, especially if there are several in some sort of array.; it is
not always obvious.
 
The logic of real-life circuit problems is not particularly amenable to
being sorted out by software.
 
 
--
~ Adrian Tuddenham ~
(Remove the ".invalid"s and add ".co.uk" to reply)
www.poppyrecords.co.uk
Rob_Lowe@hotmail.com: Jan 27 01:32PM -0500

I bought a house with a nice outdoor, flat stone tiled walk way.
Unfortunately the tiler/installer was "quite sloppy" in a few areas.
There many of the tiles now have a thin, but annoyingly Noticeble
coating "film" of concrete grout on the top.
 
I have tried coarse steel wool, with limited (slow) improvement. Is
there a better/ recommended way, to remove that concrete film? I
would really like all tiles to be fully visible, no film.
Phil Hobbs <pcdhSpamMeSenseless@electrooptical.net>: Jan 27 01:41PM -0500


> I have tried coarse steel wool, with limited (slow) improvement. Is
> there a better/ recommended way, to remove that concrete film? I
> would really like all tiles to be fully visible, no film.
 
Muriatic acid.
 
Cheers
 
Phil Hobbs
Michael Black <mblack@pubnix.net>: Jan 27 01:58PM -0500


> I have tried coarse steel wool, with limited (slow) improvement. Is
> there a better/ recommended way, to remove that concrete film? I
> would really like all tiles to be fully visible, no film.
 
This newsgroup is for the repair of electronic devices.
 
Surely you meant to post this to the repair newsgroup, I think
alt.home.repair and just because that newsgroup has turned to mush is not
a reason to post an off topic question here.
 
Michael
tabbypurr@gmail.com: Jan 27 02:49PM -0800


> I have tried coarse steel wool, with limited (slow) improvement. Is
> there a better/ recommended way, to remove that concrete film? I
> would really like all tiles to be fully visible, no film.
 
HCl is the usual solution. It does attack some stone. Sometimes you can just wet the grout for a while then scrub it off with a plastic scourer wad.
 
 
NT
Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Jan 27 05:07PM -0800


>I have tried coarse steel wool, with limited (slow) improvement. Is
>there a better/ recommended way, to remove that concrete film? I
>would really like all tiles to be fully visible, no film.
 
As previously mentioned, use diluted muriatic acid.
<https://www.google.com/search?q=cleaning+patio+muriatic+acid>
I did that to my parents patios and walkways many years. It worked
just fine but required some extra pre-cleaning and scrubbing to remove
some soaked in grease and dirt where I had previously rebuilt an
automobile engine. I don't recall exactly what cleaner I used except
that it was made for the purpose and supplied by the local hardware
store.
 
If your patio is made from flagstone, I suggest you apply a sealer
after neutralizing the acid and letting it dry:
<https://www.google.com/search?q=patio+flagstone+sealer>
After acid cleaning, the surface becomes rather porous and will absorb
and trap water, dirt, grease, mold, mildew, shoe scuff marks, etc. I
suggest you avoid the "wet look" sealer as it's difficult to keep
shiny.
 
This looks fairly accurate:
<https://www.wikihow.com/Acid-Wash-Concrete>
 
--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Jan 28 06:02AM -0800

It is a process, and varies with where you live.
 
Muriatic Acid (follow package directions): https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/klean-strip-green-muriatic-acid-gallon-3441166?cm_mmc=Affiliates-_-Pepperjam-_-product-_-feed&utm_source=pepperjam&utm_medium=affiliate&utm_campaign=product-feed&affiliate_id=43737&click_id=2590323429&clickId=2590323429
 
And a stiff wire brush are your best options. Muriatic acid has a significant virtue, the active ingredient (hydrochloric acid) is volatile if not reacted, and forms salts with many compounds such that it is (relatively) environmentally benign as compared to many other options. It also attacks only the CEMENT portion of the grout, leaving the sand and stone untouched.
 
Other stuff:
 
If the walkway is subject to exposure (snow/rain) and you are in an area where there are freeze/thaw cycles, you need to be very careful in how you treat the surfaces when you are done cleaning. You may choose to seal the surface, and if you do so, be sure that it is fully dried (days, at least), and that you treat the stone and grout uniformly and with the same material. The sealant wants to be a clear, non-volatile material when cured, and absolutely not anything like Thompsons - which is absolutely worthless in any case.
 
https://rainguardpro.com/product/micro-seal/ is one of many Silane-based materials. Thoroseal is another. But Silane/Siloxane is the gold standard - assuming you have the gold.
 
So you understand the "why" of it: Most masons these days are poorly trained in how to mix mortars and grouts. Generally they make the mortar far to rich, so that it cures (NOT dries) far too hard. When that happens, water penetration into the stone pavers is greater than what it is to the grout. At which point, during the freeze-thaw cycles, the harder material (grout) will cause damage to the pavers _AND_ if that were not enough, tend to spall in thin layers. So, sealing everything properly will eliminate that problem.
 
In a warm climate, note that the harder of the two materials will generally fail ahead of the softer material due to thermal expansion and contraction. First it will separate by density, then the smaller sections will start to crack.
 
Best of luck with it!
 
Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
arlen holder <arlen@arlen.com>: Jan 28 01:59AM

On Tue, 01 Jan 2019 14:44:32 -0800, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
 
> codec is somewhat negatated by the higher latency (delay) as compared
> with G.711 (64Kbits/sec uncompressed). It takes time to compress the
> audio, so watch out for echo problems.
 
Hi Jeff,
Your suggestion has been working surprisingly well.
Much appreciated the advice!
 
> I'm out of action for a while thanks to yet another kidney stone. Y're
> on your own on this one.
 
Hope you feel better soon!
 
You're one of the few people on Usenet who are always purposefully helpful.
Phil Hobbs <pcdhSpamMeSenseless@electrooptical.net>: Jan 27 03:35PM -0500

On 1/27/19 12:03 AM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
>> John :-#)#
 
> Nice idea. My initial guess(tm) was that the anti-reflective coating
> on the camera lens would umm... not reflect anything:
 
It's the retroreflection from the surface of the image sensor that you
see, like a cat's eye in the dark. If the sensor is at the focus of the
lens, the reflection goes straight back to the light source.
 
Cheers
 
Phil Hobbs
 
--
Dr Philip C D Hobbs
Principal Consultant
ElectroOptical Innovations LLC / Hobbs ElectroOptics
Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics
Briarcliff Manor NY 10510
 
http://electrooptical.net
http://hobbs-eo.com
N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Jan 27 08:02PM

Wanted to extend a small LCD display out of its little commercial box,
by about 1m.
Ribbon and ZIFs between the lcd pcb and main pcb was 0.5mm spacing.
No profesional micro-soldering kit available, so poor-mans bodge/kludge.
Some copper mesh from a craft shop, something to do with decorating
birthday cards/scrapbook or jewellery or the like. Anyway uses 0.12mm
diameter wire , woven into a mesh of 0.33mm spacing.
Cut a length to span width of original ribbon and width enough to bridge
and fan-out the gap to 0.05 inch ribbon or appropriate header, that
eventually can be well anchored to the main pcb. Work under illuminated
magnifyer or x10 USB microscope viewing.
With good thin nose pliers remove filaments widthwise until about 6
filaments wide bit of mesh remains, enough to just hold the weft/warp?
fibres in place, carefully disposing of those waste lengths of long
wires. So protruding wires on each side. On one side fold back the ends
of every other wire 3 times ,then leave extra 1 in place, and repeat
along ,so every 3mm matches up 0.33 to the 0.5mm spacing.
Tin all the ends of the wires. Liquid flux the lands at the ZIF socket.
Temporarily clamp mesh to pcb and align the wires, using a needle. Find
the finest of sewing needles, heat and push into a blank of hotmelt rod
as a handle. Grind back the eye end until a tiny Y shape.
Unclamp the mesh and continue removing the last 6 wires, careful about
retaining all and disposing of these tiny bits of wire.
For each soldering fill the Y with solder paste, and heat the Y area
with soldering iron. Hopefully the bond between wire and land is better
than to stainless steel. The de-deforming force of stripping the last 6
wires, is a good test of mechanical bond. Check continuity and isolation
and slide some thin sleeving over each wire, perhaps lacquer in place.
With wide spaced ribbon or whatever fixed to the pcb, solder the other
end of the wires . Recheck continuity and isolation.
Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Jan 27 09:57AM -0800

On Sun, 27 Jan 2019 08:16:49 -0800 (PST), Terry Schwartz
 
>On Saturday, January 26, 2019 at 10:24:27 PM UTC-6, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
(...)
 
>Stop feeding the troll.
 
Is that an invitation to discuss the relative merits of the OP's
trolling as compared to mine or yours? At least I have something to
feed to the trolls. Surely, you must realize that anything which
might be considered argumentative can also be considered trolling.
Since I make it a point of only writing things that I consider worth
reading, I find it difficult to distinguish between when I am trolling
and when I'm merely providing entertainment for the readers. If I
accede to your cease and desist demand, does that mean that I will
then require your permission and editorial oversight before I am
allowed to answer anyone's technical questions? If so, there are
moderated newsgroups which would welcome your efforts.
 
Perhaps "Stop feeding the topic drifters" would be more useful and
less attractive. Or better yet:
"Thou shalt not post what thou also find unworthy of reading".
<http://www.learnbydestroying.com/jeffl/crud/genesis.txt>
 
 
--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
Dipchanh@icloud.com: Jan 27 09:54AM -0800

Just joined in never too late.
1) check brushes ,blow out top of motor through
Cover plate at the top turning motor with hand
Sand brushes with light sand paper
2) If Magnet comes on then you have Power to circuit board. Unplug remove power. Remove 4 screws from cover plate where power cord comes in. Unplug black and white wires going to motor. Hook power directly to black and white wires. Motor will run if not there's a short on the top cord or the field cord is burnt. But then you would smell burnt wires. So check for short
But before you do that the black and white wired you unplug from circuit board put you tester on AC voltage and hook up press green to start assuming power is on. MAKE YOUR CIRCUIT BOARD IS INSULATED (not touching metal) circuit board can short. when you press the green start you wound get 120 volts which means your circuit board is good if not getting any power there then board is bad. I don't do boards so I cant say. Board is around $125. Thanks for letting me post my 2 cent wort
Please feel free to cal
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 17 updates in 4 topics

tubeguy@myshop.com: Jan 26 09:56PM -0600

On Thu, 24 Jan 2019 18:58:04 -0800, Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>
wrote:
 
><https://www.aps.org/>
>If you need help finding solid ground, I'm sure one of these
>organizations can find you a phase diagram.
 
If there is no governor, who enforces Ohms Law?
 
---
Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Jan 26 08:24PM -0800

>>If you need help finding solid ground, I'm sure one of these
>>organizations can find you a phase diagram.
 
>If there is no governor, who enforces Ohms Law?
 
I don't think you understand. A governor keeps rotation and revolving
doors from spinning out of control.
<https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Governor_(device)>
A president does quite the opposite, causing things to go out of
control with corrupt and rapidly spinning appointments. See President
Trump's advisors, appointments, and associates for examples. I guess
it would be redundant to suggest that the state of the union is
anything but solid.
 
--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
Terry Schwartz <tschw10117@aol.com>: Jan 27 08:16AM -0800

On Saturday, January 26, 2019 at 10:24:27 PM UTC-6, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
> 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
> Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
> Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
 
Stop feeding the troll.
Cursitor Doom <curd@notformail.com>: Jan 27 04:24PM

On Sun, 27 Jan 2019 08:16:49 -0800, Terry Schwartz wrote:
 
> Stop feeding the troll.
 
Surely you can't mean the guy who needs a computer just to do Ohm's
Law? ;->
 
 
 
 
 
--
This message may be freely reproduced without limit or charge only via
the Usenet protocol. Reproduction in whole or part through other
protocols, whether for profit or not, is conditional upon a charge of
GBP10.00 per reproduction. Publication in this manner via non-Usenet
protocols constitutes acceptance of this condition.
adrian@poppyrecords.invalid.invalid (Adrian Tuddenham): Jan 27 09:47AM

> > the bearings.
 
> > Is this serious?
 
> If it has a phase-shift capacitor, that has probably changed value ...
 
My apologies, I didn't spot that you had said it was 3Ph.
 
It could be one phase disconnected, although that probably would make
more of a hum than a buzz. Laminations could be working loose in the
rotor or the windings working loose in the stator; the former will be
more likely to change on load or pulsate at slip frequency.
 
--
~ Adrian Tuddenham ~
(Remove the ".invalid"s and add ".co.uk" to reply)
www.poppyrecords.co.uk
arlen holder <arlen@arlen.com>: Jan 26 09:08PM

On Sat, 26 Jan 2019 04:20:31 -0600, Fox's Mercantile wrote:
> Go away.
 
On Sat, 26 Jan 2019 10:35:54 +0000, newshound wrote:
> newshound <newshound@stevejqr.plus.com>
 
Hi Snit,
 
Why do these two prove, in _every_ post, they own the brain of a child?
o Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net> (*also known as "Snit"*)
o newshound <newshound@stevejqr.plus.com
 
It's clear you don't comprehend the technical question.
o But why do you _prove_ your lack of comprehension in every post?
Nomen Nescio <nobody@dizum.com>: Jan 26 10:26PM +0100

In article <S_ednbg_JIDtqdHBnZ2dnUU7-U2dnZ2d@giganews.com>
> Jeff-1.0
> WA6FWi
> http:foxsmercantile.com
 
Big mistake placing your call sign in your sig.
 
If you're going to get into arguments with people on Usenet, there are
some very mean people who will look you up in the FCC call sign
registry and cause you and your family immense problems. They can go
to a site such as Intelius and with their credit card learn the entire
public record of your life. It has happened again and again on Usenet,
and they guy you're screwing with is one of the sock puppets of a guy
who does such a thing. An American Indian named Eagle made that same
mistake with his call sign. They drove him off from Usenet with
threats to his entire family. Others have suffered the same fate.
 
It's probably a bit late, but If I were you I'd drop that call sign
from your sig file.
Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Jan 26 03:41PM -0600

On 1/26/19 3:26 PM, Nomen Nescio wrote:
> It's probably a bit late, but If I were you I'd drop that call sign
> from your sig file.
 
I appreciate the concern, but I ain't afraid of assholes on Usenet.
 
 
--
"I am a river to my people."
Jeff-1.0
WA6FWi
http:foxsmercantile.com
Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Jan 26 03:43PM -0600

On 1/26/19 3:08 PM, arlen holder wrote:
> Hi Snit,
 
Just like last time, the time before that and the time before that.
 
You're convinced I'm Snit. I'm not.
 
What do you do? Jack off in front of your computer thinking how
clever you are?
 
 
 
 
--
"I am a river to my people."
Jeff-1.0
WA6FWi
http:foxsmercantile.com
Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Jan 26 01:46PM -0800

On Sat, 26 Jan 2019 05:23:34 -0000 (UTC), arlen holder
 
>o Detect Hidden Camera, version 1.9
 
Nothing found on the Play store.
 
>o (com.techno95.detecthiddencameraandmicrophone)
 
There's nothing by techno95 remaining on the Google Play Store.
However, you can get the APK if you want to live dangerously:
<https://www.apkfollow.com/app/detect-hidden-cameras-and-microphones/com.techno95.detecthiddencameraandmicrophone/>
 
Let us know when you find a URL that I can use for these. Like most
people, I don't like to waste my time Googling for things that you
could easily provide as a URL.
 
While you're looking, consider that finding a hidden camera requires
that the camera emits something that you can detect with your
smartphone. That limits it to RF emissions of some sort, magnetic
emissions from the lens auto focus electronics, or IR emissions from
some manner of illuminator. You might to better with a spectrum
analyzer (or RTL-SDR dongle) and look for the camera clock oscillator,
LAN clock frequency, or RF backhaul frequency. CCTV cameras are often
powered by 24VAC. Maybe look for a 60Hz AC power field where one
would normally not be expected.
 
--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Jan 26 03:05PM -0800

On 2019/01/26 1:46 p.m., Jeff Liebermann wrote:
> LAN clock frequency, or RF backhaul frequency. CCTV cameras are often
> powered by 24VAC. Maybe look for a 60Hz AC power field where one
> would normally not be expected.
 
Another detector for a hidden camera lens is the reflective LED method.
You wear a headdress of LEDs facing outwards just above your eyes and if
you see bright point reflections then you may have found your hidden
camera (lens)...
 
This was explored in the book by Cory Doctorow "Little Brother"
 
https://boingboing.net/2008/05/09/howto-detect-hidden.html
 
John :-#)#
"Anonymous Remailer (austria)" <mixmaster@remailer.privacy.at>: Jan 27 12:37AM +0100

In article <S_ednbg_JIDtqdHBnZ2dnUU7-U2dnZ2d@giganews.com>
> Jeff-1.0
> WA6FWi
> http:foxsmercantile.com
 
Big mistake placing your call sign in your sig.
 
If you're going to get into arguments with people on Usenet, there are
some very mean people who will look you up in the FCC call sign
registry and cause you and your family immense problems. They can go
to a site such as Intelius and with their credit card learn the entire
public record of your life. It has happened again and again on Usenet,
and they guy you're screwing with is one of the sock puppets of a guy
who does such a thing. An American Indian named Eagle made that same
mistake with his call sign. They drove him off from Usenet with
threats to his entire family. Others have suffered the same fate.
 
It's probably a bit late, but If I were you I'd drop that call sign
from your sig file.
arlen holder <arlen@arlen.com>: Jan 27 04:17AM

On Sat, 26 Jan 2019 13:46:23 -0800, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
 
>>o Detect Hidden Camera, version 1.9
> Nothing found on the Play store.
 
I apologize that the app I used is no longer in Google Play.
 
This is what the "green screen" IR detector screen looks like:
<http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=6487383detect08.jpg>
That's actually an infrared camera it's pointed at, but it's apparently off
(likely as wires pulled out when the tree fell down in a windstorm).
 
Here, for the record, is what the "magnetometer" readout looks like
with the results in both cases when pressed next to radios:
<http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=1112569detect07.jpg>
It glows red when you're close to an RF emitter of various sorts:
 
 
> There's nothing by techno95 remaining on the Google Play Store.
> However, you can get the APK if you want to live dangerously:
> <https://www.apkfollow.com/app/detect-hidden-cameras-and-microphones/com.techno95.detecthiddencameraandmicrophone/>
 
I apologize. Let me use a few apps in my "system" folder to check.
Apparently I installed version 1.9 of that app on November 9th, 2018.
 
1. This is what "My Apps" freeware shows about that app:
o <https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.spencerstudios.applist>
<http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=2539873detect01.jpg>
 
2. This is what "List My Apps" freeware shows about that app:
o <https://f-droid.org/en/packages/de.onyxbits.listmyapps/>
<http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=3786727detect02.jpg>
 
3. This is what "My App List" freeware shows about that app:
o <https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.projectsexception.myapplist>
<http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=4643505detect03.jpg>
 
4. This is what "Applications Info" freeware shows about that app:
o <https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.majeur.applicationsinfo>
<http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=1843366detect04.jpg>
 
5. This is what my.own.apps freeware shows (but it's obnoxiousware):
o My Apps <https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=my.own.apps>
<http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=1547742detect05.jpg>
 
6. This is what mobi.usage.appbackup freeware shows about that app:
o App Backup & Restore <https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=mobi.usage.appbackup>
<http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=4930033detect06.jpg>
 
> Let us know when you find a URL that I can use for these. Like most
> people, I don't like to waste my time Googling for things that you
> could easily provide as a URL.
 
I agree with you that the one I used is no longer easy to find.
Luckily there are plenty of "hidden camera detectors" on Google Play:
<https://play.google.com/store/search?q=hidden camera detector>
 
I tested FOUR of them for you, where I recommend the LAST one below.
 
Here is one called "Hidden Camera Detector".
<https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=hiddencamdetector.futureapps.com.hiddencamdetector>
<http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=2460855detect09.jpg>
Here it is in use inside my house (I will test it outside later):
<http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=2368161detect10.jpg>
That app has ads; but it seems otherwise the same as the old one I have.
 
Here's another one called "Hidden Camera Detector".
<https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.labinformatics.hiddencameradetectorspy>
<http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=8525590detect13.jpg>
Here it is in use inside my house (notice it uses a "blue screen"):
<http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=8822787detect14.jpg>
The magnetometer seems to give slightly more dynamic data:
<http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=5189465detect15.jpg>
 
Here is a lousy sophomoric one called "Anti-Spy:Came Detector"
<https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.mastertech.SpyDetector>
<http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=8552496detect11.jpg>
It has obnoxious ads; but otherwise, it seems the same as mine.
<http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=8121084detect12.jpg>
(I don't recommend this app due to the obnoxities.)
 
Here is one called "Hidden Camera Detector Camera Scanner":
<https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.teamissolution.hiddencameradetectedspycamerasdetectors>
<http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=8255824detect16.png>
This one uses a "pink viewfinder" & a dial gauge magnetometer:
<http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=7911635detect17.jpg>
The magnetometer, like the others, displays what it thinks it sees:
<http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=1341749detect18.jpg>
This one seems to have an additional separate graphing function:
<http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=8397455detect19.jpg>
 
Of all those, I like the one I have best since it has zero ads!
But of the ones that are available now, that last one is OK.
 
One thing I noticed in testing that I didn't realize is that the
"Green Screen" is immaterial. I don't know WHY they change
the color of the screen (do you?).
 
Some are green. Some are blue. Some red.
Why bother changing the color?
 
> smartphone. That limits it to RF emissions of some sort, magnetic
> emissions from the lens auto focus electronics, or IR emissions from
> some manner of illuminator.
 
I think the apps all look for the same thing:
o Magnetometer readings, or,
o They just let the IR-sensitive camera do its normal thing.
 
I "guess" they make the screen "green or red or blue" to give more
contrast? I'm not sure. Do you know why they change the screen color?
 
> LAN clock frequency, or RF backhaul frequency. CCTV cameras are often
> powered by 24VAC. Maybe look for a 60Hz AC power field where one
> would normally not be expected.
 
I'm not a professional; I just hike in rough terrain where bad guys are.
That is, I happen to often hike in the hills where pot farmers grow stuff.
<http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=3023286detect20.jpg>
 
I find their "stuff" all the time, fertilizer, hoses, dams, irrigation
tubing, and even hammocks, sleeping bags, weighing scales,
car batteries, etc.
 
It's very common in these inaccessible mountain areas.
 
Here's just a bunch of horticulture pots I found yesterday while hiking at
least two or three miles from the nearest road deep off the trails.
<http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=2648541detect21.jpg>
 
Whenever I see _that_ stuff, I know the pot farmers are nearby.
I just want to see if they have hidden cameras in the trees.
Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Jan 26 09:03PM -0800

On Sat, 26 Jan 2019 15:05:10 -0800, John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>
wrote:
 
>This was explored in the book by Cory Doctorow "Little Brother"
>https://boingboing.net/2008/05/09/howto-detect-hidden.html
>John :-#)#
 
Nice idea. My initial guess(tm) was that the anti-reflective coating
on the camera lens would umm... not reflect anything:
<https://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-locate-pinhole-cameras/>
The instructions are value and ambiguous. It took me a while to
decode how it is intended to be used.
 
The purpose of the toilet paper tube is prevent the user from seeing
the direct light from the flashlight. In order to get a tolerable
reflection, the flashlight should be close and parallel to the toilet
paper tube. Once I did that, I was able to see reflections from some
of my various cameras, but also reflections from anything shiny in the
house. The lenses that did not reflect light were those with clear
plastic lens protectors, which reflected nothing no matter what I
tried. Actually, there was plenty of light scattering, but nothing
that could be seen as a reflected spot. That eliminated some of my
laptop web cameras and outdoor security cameras. How well it works in
the field, I don't know. Probably better than inside my house because
of the lack of spurious reflections.
 
--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
tubeguy@myshop.com: Jan 26 09:56PM -0600

Is there any Software to calculate Ohms Law and other electronics math?
 
I have never been good at Mathematics, once you put numbers over other
numbers, use alphabet letters in place of numbers, or talk about
squaring a number, I am completely lost. This is nothing new. Even in
high school I needed special help and barely passed algebra.
 
Yet, I have worked with electronics all my life. (55+ years). I usually
fInd the correct resistors by trial and error, using pots and decade
boxes. Or using meters for watts, amps, or volts.
 
Most of the time I see someone in a youtube video using this kind of
math, I skip the video. I just hate math and always will.
 
But I'd welcome a piece of software that would calculate simple ohms law
things like determining the resisitor size or amperage, etc.
 
Yes, I'm aware of websites that do that math, but I do not have internet
access in my shop, which is where I need this sort of thing.
 
Is there any software (preferably free) that I can put on my laptop PC
to do this? (Must be suitable for Windows XP SP3 Pro).
 
Google did not find anything except those online (web based)
calculators...
Ralph Mowery <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: Jan 26 11:19PM -0500

In article <mvaq4e5ap2shaio9h1skold7spjogfa183@4ax.com>,
tubeguy@myshop.com says...
 
> Google did not find anything except those online (web based)
> calculators...
 
Try this.
 
https://www.electronics2000.co.uk/download.php
Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Jan 26 08:36PM -0800


>Is there any Software to calculate Ohms Law and other electronics math?
 
No. It's too easy and simple to make it worthwhile writing a stand
alone Ohm's Law program for a PC. There are plenty for IOS and
Android devices, but not for PC's. It might be helpful in finding
something if you were more specific as to what you mean by "other
electronics math"?
 
>Is there any software (preferably free) that I can put on my laptop PC
>to do this? (Must be suitable for Windows XP SP3 Pro).
 
I think you'll find one of these to be more suitable:
<https://www.google.com/search?q=ohm's+law+cardboard+slide+rule&tbm=isch>
Most of my collection:
<http://www.learnbydestroying.com/jeffl/crud/Paper-Slide-Rule-Calculators.jpg>
<http://www.learnbydestroying.com/jeffl/crud/Paper-Slide-Rule-Calculators-02.jpg>
Oddly, I don't seem to have one that does Ohm's Law.
 
 
--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 12 updates in 4 topics

Peter Jason <pj@jostle.com>: Jan 26 10:58AM +1100

On Thu, 24 Jan 2019 09:24:00 -0000, Mike Coon
>> Peter
 
>Squirrel wants out? (Well someone had to say it...)
 
>Mike.
 
I tried pouring oil down its nose, but the noise
never changes. :-)))
Peter Jason <pj@jostle.com>: Jan 26 11:01AM +1100

On Fri, 25 Jan 2019 12:31:21 +0000, N_Cook
>> Peter
 
>Is it being powered by clean sine 50/60 Hz or some sort of dirty
>chopped/synthesised 3 phase via a converter?
 
We have no choppers. And other squirrel motors on
the same power system are quiet as ever.
adrian@poppyrecords.invalid.invalid (Adrian Tuddenham): Jan 26 03:04PM

> 12 months. The motor is not overheating, nor are
> the bearings.
 
> Is this serious?
 
If it has a phase-shift capacitor, that has probably changed value and
is on the way to failing. Substitute another one of as near the right
value as possible and see if that stops or alters the noise. (Make sure
the capacitor is discharged each time before touching it.)
 
 
--
~ Adrian Tuddenham ~
(Remove the ".invalid"s and add ".co.uk" to reply)
www.poppyrecords.co.uk
arlen holder <arlen@arlen.com>: Jan 26 05:23AM

Do you have experience with "infrared camera detection" on mobile devices?
 
If so, how do you assess the difference between
o How the infrared camera detection works on a mobile device, versus
o Similar functionality, in almost _any_ digital video camera viewfinder?
 
Note this question is only about the inherent infrared detection
differences between almost any digital camera ... and these "green-screen"
viewfinder apps.
 
Today I decided to check an area for hidden cameras and microphones
where the first non-obnoxiousware non-Internet non-GPS-aware
free tool I happened to test was
o Detect Hidden Camera, version 1.9
o (com.techno95.detecthiddencameraandmicrophone)
 
The way "it" works is pretty simple, apparently, where
o It detects rf emitters using the magnetometer reading, and
o It detects infrared emitters using a "green screen" video viewfinder
 
Based on an Internet search, these tools abound on both iOS & Android:
<https://knowtechie.com/smartphone-apps-can-help-detect-hidden-cameras-anywhere/>
<https://www.techzac.com/best-hidden-camera-detector-apps-android/>
<http://www.graphictunnel.com/2017/09/best-hidden-camera-detector-apps.html>
etc.
 
My question for this newsgroup is only about that green-screen viewfinder.
Q: Essentially, other than being "green" - how is it any different from
almost _any_ digital video viewfinder (all of which seem to detect infrared
emissions)?
Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Jan 26 04:20AM -0600

On 1/25/19 11:23 PM, arlen holder wrote:
> Do you have experience with "infrared camera detection" on mobile devices?
 
Go away.
 
--
"I am a river to my people."
Jeff-1.0
WA6FWi
http:foxsmercantile.com
newshound <newshound@stevejqr.plus.com>: Jan 26 10:35AM

On 26/01/2019 10:20, Fox's Mercantile wrote:
>> Do you have experience with "infrared camera detection" on mobile
>> devices?
 
> Go away.
 
+1
etpm@whidbey.com: Jan 25 09:19AM -0800


>Oh, it worked in the past? Or maybe you've never had a good square wave
>to check it with?
 
>GH
Yeah, it worked in the past using the square wave output on the
'scope.
Eric
"Ron D." <ron.dozier@gmail.com>: Jan 25 10:52AM -0800

1. The adjustment only works in anything but x1 mode.
 
2. The adjustment corrects the squareness of a square wave. It makes the divider resistive.
 
3. Probes are designed for a certain input Z e.g. 1 M 22 || pf and freq response
Make sure the scope isn't 50 ohms.
 
4. For the adj, the scope should be DC coupled.
 
5. Scope could be in UNCAL mode. Freq or voltage.
 
6. Check voltage with a DC source. Freq: Try the AC line for frequency.
etpm@whidbey.com: Jan 25 04:06PM -0800

On Fri, 25 Jan 2019 10:52:54 -0800 (PST), "Ron D."
 
>4. For the adj, the scope should be DC coupled.
 
>5. Scope could be in UNCAL mode. Freq or voltage.
 
>6. Check voltage with a DC source. Freq: Try the AC line for frequency.
That DC couplng migt be the problem. It was mentioned in another post
too. Tomorrow I will check things again with the 'scope properly set
up and report back.
Thanks,
Eric
etpm@whidbey.com: Jan 25 04:08PM -0800

On Thu, 24 Jan 2019 14:53:30 -0800 (PST), Terry Schwartz
>> Thanks,
>> Eric
 
>Sounds like it's AC coupled.
It is. DC didn't seem to change things but I don't know. Tomorrow I
will have time to set everything properly and will report back.
Thanks,
Eric
mailserver.cctv@gmail.com: Jan 25 11:58AM -0800

It's mapped to the "any" key on the keyboard.
John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Jan 25 12:50PM -0800

On 2019/01/24 5:06 p.m., KenW wrote:
>> (And by the way, who is their governor)?
 
>> .... :)
 
> Did you try State of Confusion ?
 
Actually it is next to State of Mind...
 
John ;-#)#
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