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"Peter W." <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Feb 28 08:16AM -0800 > As long as it does not actually get charged before or during the time > that it is near the sensitive circuitry, it should not cause damage.   There is a very long stretch between "should not" and "will not". When the proper means-and-methods are readily available, one *should not* take the lesser path.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

"jurb...@gmail.com" <jurb6006@gmail.com>: Feb 27 09:30AM -0800 Not that hard, for the most part the wires of the same color re interchangeable.   https://www.smpspowersupply.com/connector_atx_pinout.GIF   might help.   Note if you ever want to try that again you need a couple of things. First the green wire on pin 11 or 177 needs to be grounded to turn it on. Then to keep it on you must load the 5 volt about an amp, but you might get by with less. I power resistor 4.7 ohms would do bt it has to be at least 5 watts, and it WILL warm up so you have to kinda insulate it. Unless you want to use a big ass 20 watt.

bruce bowser <bruce2bowser@gmail.com>: Feb 28 05:09AM -0800 On Friday, February 26, 2021 at 1:11:20 PM UTC-5, Abandoned_Trolley wrote: > On 29/01/2021 13:57, Tim R wrote:   > > I will admit that I have also cut a cable too close to a connection and quickly regretted it.   > Any wire cut to length is too short   Cut it too long, the boss might gripe. Cut it too short, you're fired.

"jurb...@gmail.com" <jurb6006@gmail.com>: Feb 27 09:42AM -0800 Lately I work on audio and have long thought that I get the shit that has already been gone through but I think I have ALMOST seen it all.   This amp in a receiver, not the greatest but is vintage, whatever it needed outputs though I don't know why.   So it is offset bigtime. The problem ? A 27K going to the emitters of the diff pair. So with that replaced it centers the voltage and all it supposeedly well but it has distortion. Wracked my brain or a bit and I decided to go inoto detail mode. What do I find ?   An 2.2K ohm resistor where an 18 ohm belongs. What's more it looked like it had never been changed or if so it was a very long time ago because the connections had the same dust on them as the rest of it.   Shit like this is not normal, and I am dealing with more and more of it.   Then there is this quad unit, outputs good but it had more bad transistors than you could sweep off the floor. get the amp fixed and a channel is cutting out. Bad connection ? Nope, a transistor. Got that fixed and now off to another board that is no doubt full of bad transistors.   Life is trip, think of the destination.

"ohg...@gmail.com" <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Feb 27 12:27PM -0800 > Shit like this is not normal, and I am dealing with more and more of it.   > Then there is this quad unit, outputs good but it had more bad transistors than you could sweep off the floor. get the amp fixed and a channel is cutting out. Bad connection ? Nope, a transistor. Got that fixed and now off to another board that is no doubt full of bad transistors.   > Life is trip, think of the destination.   The only time I really remember transistors being a red flag (other than early Germaniums) were some small Hitachi signal transistors from the 70s-80s - the TO-92 ones with the beveled top. Those things would go leaky or open or intermittent (their choice). It got to the point back then that I just automatically changed them whenever I saw one in anything I worked on. Pretty much eliminated any rechecks.

Curly Valentine <newjeffinjapan@gmail.com>: Feb 27 10:44AM -0800 > I didn't see any obvious design or implementation flubs (that I could easily correct). I do question why the metal block to the yogurt well was over 1 inch long.   > Hope this info helps someone. > J Very helpful - to clarify - was your repair successful, and is it still running? What is the Cuisinart replacement? The whole yogurt maker? or just the TEC?

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Abandoned_Trolley <fred@fred-smith.uk>: Feb 26 06:11PM On 29/01/2021 13:57, Tim R wrote:     > I will admit that I have also cut a cable too close to a connection and quickly regretted it.   Any wire cut to length is too short   AT

Allodoxaphobia <trepidation@example.net>: Feb 27 02:44PM On Fri, 26 Feb 2021 18:11:16 +0000, Abandoned_Trolley wrote: > On 29/01/2021 13:57, Tim R wrote:   >> I will admit that I have also cut a cable too close to a connection and quickly regretted it.   > Any wire cut to length is too short   If a wire has one end, then it has another.

"Peter W." <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Feb 26 10:33AM -0800 Do you know any way > i could tell if the kapton I have is anti-static?   Try rubbing some on a bit of wool in a dry (not humid) room and see if it sticks to anything.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

Tinkerer <tinker5@anytime.net>: Feb 26 11:46PM -0500 On 2/26/21 1:33 PM, Peter W. wrote:   > Try rubbing some on a bit of wool in a dry (not humid) room and see if it sticks to anything.   > Peter Wieck > Melrose Park, PA   Well, that certainly was a good test. The only wool I own this time of year is a pair of Minus 33 wool thermals that I am wearing as I write. I folded over the tape so the sticky side wouldn't interfere and rubbed it on the pants. Took a few tries, but the tape finally did stick to the wall. So that definitely answers the question and I won't be using it. Thanks for this tip!

Chris Jones <lugnut808@spam.yahoo.com>: Feb 28 12:12AM +1100 On 27/02/2021 15:46, Tinkerer wrote: > on the pants.  Took a few tries, but the tape finally did stick to the > wall.  So that definitely answers the question and I won't be using it. > Thanks for this tip!   As long as it does not actually get charged before or during the time that it is near the sensitive circuitry, it should not cause damage. Perhaps you could apply the tape before wiping it down with a damp cloth to discharge it, then install the sensitive circuitry whilst there is no charge present.

bruce bowser <bruce2bowser@gmail.com>: Feb 26 01:47PM -0800 On Monday, November 24, 2014 at 7:57:17 AM UTC-5, Jeff Layman wrote: > in, and the only accessible wiring is to the mains connector. Is there > any point in trying some sort of screening or RFI suppression on the > mains wiring before I take it down?   U need an isolated ground receptacle. Used to combat noise interference with audio and video, it must be supplied by a metal raceway or cable system that is an equipment grounding conductor. Connect it past any panelboards and absolutely do not connect it to the panelboard grounding terminal bar, but to independent 3 x 6 ft. independent copper rods completely driven into the ground.   (As per code NEC 517.16 Use of Isolated Ground Receptacles "The grounding terminal on the isolated ground receptacle must be connected by an insulated equipment grounding conductor with one or more yellow stripes which is permitted to pass through one or more panelboards without a connection to the panelboard grounding terminal bar as permitted in 408.40 ...)

bruce bowser <bruce2bowser@gmail.com>: Feb 26 01:11PM -0800 On Thursday, December 31, 2020 at 1:25:32 PM UTC-5, John Robertson wrote: > Last Time Buy Date 06/21/2021   > You'd think a 50 year old design would just keep going and going...we > use a lot of these in repairing arcade games!   With so many college wizkids minted each year with nothing to do, its a wonder even a one-year old design continues to be a standard (let alone a 50 year old one).

bruce bowser <bruce2bowser@gmail.com>: Feb 26 01:08PM -0800 On Saturday, June 20, 2020 at 12:53:44 PM UTC-4, Peter W. wrote: > No lock is any better than the frame it is in. Nor do most thieves come at night.   > Out on the Main Line (look it up!) there was a group that worked out of a large box-truck. They would pull up into a driveway (no sidewalks out there), put a large sign in the yard: House And Yard Clean-Outs, Fast Personal Service   > Then, do just that.   I like how in the early 60's a US satellite focused all the way in on a single golf ball. I wonder how much of that photography (or other ground detail replications) prosecutors can get their hands on.

Chuck <chuck23@dejanews.net>: Feb 26 11:38AM -0600 On Thu, 25 Feb 2021 16:23:35 -0800 (PST), bruce bowser >> Melrose Park, PA >> > What are some foreign equivalents to the jeep or Humvee (HMMWV)?   >In WWII, the japanese used something called the type 95 by Tokyu Kurogane Industries and I guess you could remember the Volkswagen Kübelwagen (type 82) from Hogan's Heroes.   The Russian Lada Niva is considered one of the most rugged SUVs.

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Tinkerer <tinker5@anytime.net>: Feb 25 05:05PM -0500 I have a static sensitive circuit with a small battery compartment located just underneath, almost touching. Since there is a chance for shorts, what could I put between the circuit board bottom and battery box? Some of the IC's are static sensitive, so not a plastic that build charge. Since this was a homemade project, is there anything I could use from around the house?

Eli the Bearded <*@eli.users.panix.com>: Feb 25 10:32PM > box? Some of the IC's are static sensitive, so not a plastic that build > charge. Since this was a homemade project, is there anything I could > use from around the house?   Isn't paper traditionally used for that? For covering a small area, you could probably cut a square out of a latex glove for something more insulating (although also likely to rot faster).   Elijah ------ also consider stickers, old credit cards, scraps of tyvek envelopes, etc

"Peter W." <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Feb 26 03:46AM -0800 https://www.amazon.com/GC-ELECTRONICS-FIBROID-ELECTRICAL-INSULATION/dp/B00DJUHBIW   is the traditional material.   From "around the house", you might use any otherwise inert neutral paper or something like an index card.   The point of fish paper is that it is long-term, inert, resistant to puncture, non-flammable and all sorts of other virtues along those lines.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

Tinkerer <tinker5@anytime.net>: Feb 26 10:06AM -0500 On 2/26/21 6:46 AM, Peter W. wrote:   > The point of fish paper is that it is long-term, inert, resistant to puncture, non-flammable and all sorts of other virtues along those lines.   > Peter Wieck > Melrose Park, PA   Thanks, well that's not that expensive. The tape they also recommend buying there, kapton, is what I have here at present. However, I didn't realize it came in static and non-static versions. Do you know any way i could tell if the kapton I have is anti-static?

Bob F <bobnospam@gmail.com>: Feb 25 05:46PM -0800 On 1/10/2021 9:06 AM, Bertrand Sindri wrote: > engineered the schematic from the PCB?   > If you have no schematic, you are again 'assuming' they are not in > parallel.   Perhaps because similar leads of each cap are not connected together?

bruce bowser <bruce2bowser@gmail.com>: Feb 25 04:23PM -0800 On Sunday, February 21, 2021 at 7:21:14 AM UTC-5, Peter W. wrote: > Peter Wieck > Melrose Park, PA > > What are some foreign equivalents to the jeep or Humvee (HMMWV)?   In WWII, the japanese used something called the type 95 by Tokyu Kurogane Industries and I guess you could remember the Volkswagen Kübelwagen (type 82) from Hogan's Heroes.

legg <legg@nospam.magma.ca>: Feb 25 01:11PM -0500 On Wed, 24 Feb 2021 22:06:23 -0800 (PST), Mark Geisert   >powercfg /?   Have to learn to take suggestions literally.   That prompt got a 5page description of powercfg recognized inputs.   Doesn't seem to be an option to simply report current settings and readings. I don't want to manipulate anything - just see if there's something amiss.   Too bad there's not a simple smb monitor, built-in.   RL

legg <legg@nospam.magma.ca>: Feb 25 01:40PM -0500 On Wed, 24 Feb 2021 22:06:23 -0800 (PST), Mark Geisert   >It's complaining about parameters, the "/batteryreport" in this case. The Windows convention for programs to provide help is for them to support a "/?" parameter. So, try: > powercfg /?   >..mark   OK. I googled it. This is W8 and later.   RL

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Mark Geisert <mark.a.geisert@gmail.com>: Feb 24 10:06PM -0800 On Wednesday, February 24, 2021 at 7:41:26 AM UTC-8, legg wrote:   > C:\Windows\system32>powercfg /batteryreport > gets > Invalid Parameters -- try "/?" for help   It's complaining about parameters, the "/batteryreport" in this case. The Windows convention for programs to provide help is for them to support a "/?" parameter. So, try: powercfg /?   ..mark

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bruce bowser <bruce2bowser@gmail.com>: Feb 23 01:45PM -0800 On Tuesday, June 9, 2020 at 8:19:30 AM UTC-4, Peter W. wrote:   > Then: https://www.justanswer.com/sip/panasonic-help-24-7?r=ppc|ga|27|Tech-CE-SQR-Search-BMM|CE-Panasonic|&JPKW=%2Bpanasonic%20%2Bengland&JPDC=S&JPST=&JPAD=378934176681&JPMT=b&JPNW=g&JPAF=txt&JPRC=1&JPCD=&JPOP=&cmpid=2032112328&agid=76054807163&fiid=&tgtid=kwd-807471796533&ntw=g&dvc=c&gclid=CjwKCAjw5vz2BRAtEiwAbcVIL4IpznzJVHkSJM0UAa4rerYc42_ibvjnkdsd_EkpKG39BsihtcQHsBoC1VcQAvD_BwE > Peter Wieck > Melrose Park, PA   If cost is an issue, then ... I don't know if I'm just hallucinating or not, but at the end of each calendar school year, many university and college dorms have small piles of ... wait for it ... microwave ovens (amongst other gadgets) piled high outside as students are moving out for the summer. I don't exactly see armed guards surrounding those piles.

"ohg...@gmail.com" <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Feb 23 02:35PM -0800 On Monday, June 22, 2020 at 10:57:49 PM UTC-4, Cydrome Leader wrote: > industrial microwave something device. The transformer doesn't even have > shunts and outputs a full 4kV at a couple kW. It makes for one of the > fiercest jacob's ladders I've thrown together.   I don't know about anywhere else in the world, but in the U.S., there's a dire warning of death with any product you buy, including a Happy Meal. Because of the fear of lawyers, every product gets warning labels no matter how sill it is, so people are now conditioned to totally ignore warnings. Pick up a can of spray paint. The instructions take up 2/3 of the can, and 9/10s of that is warnings of some type.   But yes, microwaves are uniquely qualified to end someone's life. To those who don't know, microwave ovens seem less dangerous than a TV or stereo receiver, so how could they hurt someone?   So, to anyone reading this that is thinking about repairing their microwave: BE CAREFUL. MORE THAN ANYTHING ELSE IN YOUR HOUSE, A MICROWAVE IS CAN KILL YOU EVEN WHEN IT'S UNPLUGGED!

bruce bowser <bruce2bowser@gmail.com>: Feb 24 08:27AM -0800 > But yes, microwaves are uniquely qualified to end someone's life. To those who don't know, microwave ovens seem less dangerous than a TV or stereo receiver, so how could they hurt someone?   > So, to anyone reading this that is thinking about repairing their microwave: BE CAREFUL. MORE THAN ANYTHING > ELSE IN YOUR HOUSE, A MICROWAVE IS CAN KILL YOU EVEN WHEN IT'S UNPLUGGED!   Do the insurance folk have to pay benefits if non-licensed electricians forget to bleed capacitors?

legg <legg@nospam.magma.ca>: Feb 24 10:41AM -0500 Trying to use windows powercfg command prompt.   C:\Windows\system32>powercfg /batteryreport gets Invalid Parameters -- try "/?" for help   C:\Windows\system32>/powercfg /batteryreport gets '/powercfg' is not recognized as an internal or external command, blah blah . . .   Used to have a pretty comprehensive battery monitor on this machine. Would read serial number, mfr, cycle count, original capacity, present capacity and dynamic charge/ discharge numbers. Disappeared somehow. Nothing in Acer downloads, currently.   Any suggestions?   RL

Andy Burns <usenet@andyburns.uk>: Feb 24 04:03PM legg wrote:     > C:\Windows\system32>powercfg /batteryreport > gets > Invalid Parameters -- try "/?" for help   looks correct, sure you didn't fat-finger it?   > gets > '/powercfg' is not recognized as an internal or external command, > blah blah . . .   that's definitely wrong, shouldn't have the preceding slash

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"Peter W." <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Feb 22 08:54AM -0800 Given that this goes back to July of 2020, the horse is dead, flayed, flensed, salted and jerked.   Further, you are all forgetting the purpose of Usenet - which is to give entirely inappropriate advice using the most obscure possible means-and-methods, that are in no way unrelated to the original request, that are also dangerous and/or poisonous and/or costly, that will absolutely not fix whatever is going on, or not going on.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

Tim R <timothy42b@aol.com>: Feb 22 01:24PM -0800 On Monday, February 22, 2021 at 11:54:17 AM UTC-5, Peter W. wrote:   > Further, you are all forgetting the purpose of Usenet - which is to give entirely inappropriate advice using the most obscure possible means-and-methods, that are in no way unrelated to the original request, that are also dangerous and/or poisonous and/or costly, that will absolutely not fix whatever is going on, or not going on.   > Peter Wieck > Melrose Park, PA   And then after all the complicated advice, it is customary to give a simple cheap and easy to implement solution, which will enrage the OP because that's not what he asked for.

"ohg...@gmail.com" <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Feb 22 10:28AM -0800 > > > Not sure, there are several screen sizes and LED arrangements that differ between models for the KU series. Some of the KUs have a plug in wire harness for the LEDs and others plug directly into the display with an edge connector. There is a "version" number on the model number label, usually four characters. Get that version number and I'll check. > > OK, the version number is.. : FAO1... > Samsung un55ku650dfxza   Sorry for the delay. I have the supply for a UN65KU7000. It's drives a different LED array and would have to be rewired to work. This place has them. They also have both boards for a few bucks more. https://www.shopjimmy.com/search.php?search_query=+un55ku650dfxza They are also good about taking returns.

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bruce bowser <bruce2bowser@gmail.com>: Feb 22 02:54AM -0800 > Just ship it here to Ohio and I'll do it for a small fee, and then probably fix it. But I would guess that round trip shipping would be > like $200 or more. That is if you are closeby, if you are i Califuckingfornia it will of course be more. Some truck drivers get almost > double pay to go there. They also get better money for going to New England. And NYC, they can live well for a month for one trip there.   People hate urban areas like all that, though. The idea is to stay out in the hills and shake down family and friends for any extra cash.

Abandoned_Trolley <fred@fred-smith.uk>: Feb 22 01:34PM On 07/07/2020 10:30, Trevor Wilson wrote:   > **I wanna fix my car, but I don't know anything about engines and > gearboxes. Maybe I can ask some random people on the internet?   Thats a fabulous idea Trevor, and to limit the flood of replies, why not use a dud telephone number ?   AT

Three Jeeps <jjhudak4@gmail.com>: Feb 21 02:18PM -0800 On Thursday, February 18, 2021 at 10:29:25 AM UTC-5, Peter W. wrote: > We have a small 30A @ 240 VAC emergency generator. When it is in use, we run it to a 30A double-pole breaker in the panel, shutting off the main breaker at the same time. That will cover the freezer, refrigerator, boiler a few lights and other miscellaneous items as needed, without having to wire or unwire anything. The feed from the generator is 6/3 SJO cord, and the unit itself is grounded to a properly installed 8' ground rod. The three times we have had to use it for more than a couple of hours, it has worked nicely. Usually, we run a single-ended extension cord to our neighbors for their refrigerator as well. > Peter Wieck > Melrose Park, PA   I assume the 30A double-pole breaker is wired to be a transfer switch, else, bad things will happen when the power comes back on. In your configuration, wont you need to drop some load at the load center as I assume all the devices in a 3-4 bedroom house would exceed the power output of the generator? Just re-read the post...30A@240 VAC...probably not.

Ralph Mowery <rmowery42@charter.net>: Feb 21 06:09PM -0500 In article <8d5997c1-da64-435c-8f84-1101d097f128n@googlegroups.com>, jjhudak4@gmail.com says...   > I assume the 30A double-pole breaker is wired to be a transfer switch, else, bad things will happen when the power comes back on. > In your configuration, wont you need to drop some load at the load center as I assume all the devices in a 3-4 bedroom house would exceed the power output of the generator? Just re-read the post...30A@240 VAC...probably not.   Unless the power line going to your house is the only line down, the small generators would most likely trip out their breakers due to trying to power up other houses on the line.   I have a small generator 3.5 kw and another 5 Kw and I cut off all my heavy current users such as the water heater and heatpump. I only use one generator at a time as the 3.5 generator is propane powered and I use it for short periods of time . If the power is out longer, I then put gas in the 5 kw one and use it. That way I do not have to worry about gas being left in the fuel system and gunning it up. The 5 Kw unit will power the water heater if it is almost the only load other than a few lights. That way I can heat the water and take a very quick shower if needed. It will also let me use the electric stove for more than one small burner.

"Peter W." <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Feb 22 03:52AM -0800 ".... Shutting off the main breaker...."   We are a gas-fired, nearly-all-LED house. The loads I will drop for such an event are the hot-tub, the mini-splits, and the TV & audio solid-state electronics. Otherwise, there is more than enough capacity for lighting, refrigeration and heating.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

Mike Mocha <mocha@mailexcite.com>: Feb 22 06:33AM Just some pointers to anyone having trouble with this handheld LCD scope. I've seen other reports on the web about this model not powering up but no answers. I had one that started to power up intermittenly and then eventually refused to power up at all. It would just make a short chirp beep sometimes when pressing the power button, sometime no beep at all. Long story short, you can get the older service manual here which includes full schematics and board layout.   https://archive.org/details/FLUKE_192B_196B_C_199BC_Service/page/n201/ mode/2up   They have lots of troubleshooting steps for no power up and so forth, but in my case it was a problem with the soldering of the "D-ASIC" chip (D3500). I think this is a BGA type or something very similar.   I fixed it by using the old hot air gun trick. I use a method of putting a tiny piece of 63/37 solder on top of the chip and then aim the gun about 6" away on med-high heat. As soon as the little piece of solder starts getting molten, I quickly move the gun away and apply force down on the chip with the handle of a screwdriver (in this case). I repeated this a few times, then let it cool off and voila! Working perfectly again!

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bruce bowser <bruce2bowser@gmail.com>: Feb 21 01:52AM -0800 On Wednesday, February 10, 2021 at 1:03:36 PM UTC-5, three_jeeps wrote: > > Ben Lomond CA 95005-0272 > > Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558 > Yes, good point - it is rather tenacious. If the connection needs to be reworked in the future, it is a little tough to remove it. I've tried teflon tape on occasion and found that it slides and shifts around so much that it is hard to get a clean wrap so to speak. One good thing is that teflon tape has a very high dielectric strength, something like 6kv at 0.001 inch thick, (or is it 0.001? i forget). It would do quite well in RF applications.   What are some foreign equivalents to the jeep or Humvee (HMMWV)?

"Peter W." <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Feb 21 04:21AM -0800 G-Wagon Unimog   Borh by Daimler.   Wolf by Land Rover   Sherpa by Renault   All that I can think of, offhand. There must be more.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

Hilda Winkler <hildawinkler77@gmail.com>: Feb 20 09:38PM -0800 On Saturday, February 20, 2021 at 9:49:24 AM UTC-5, Hilda Winkler wrote: > > > is the ps board you have compatible with my tv.??? > > Not sure, there are several screen sizes and LED arrangements that differ between models for the KU series. Some of the KUs have a plug in wire harness for the LEDs and others plug directly into the display with an edge connector. There is a "version" number on the model number label, usually four characters. Get that version number and I'll check. > OK, the version number is.. : FAO1... Samsung un55ku650dfxza

Jon Elson <elson@pico-systems.com>: Feb 17 03:00PM -0600 > night > and colder? The system is York Borg Warned from 1965. Anyone know if > there is a way to manually turn the heat on?   Can't say about your system. We have hydronic heat here (water-filled baseboard radiators, a circulating pump, zone valves and 24 V AC gas valve. The zone valves have a manual override catch that will lock them open. I guess that was provided in case there was hope of convection, but I doubt it would work on our system.   Some gas valves have a manual override to turn the gas on, but you'd need to be VERY careful to not overheat the heat exchanger without the line-powered fan or circulator.   What we did was disconnect the furnace from the hard-wired power and connect to a generator. It is apparently illegal to have a furnace fed from a plug, so we have to unwire and then rewire every power failure.   A gas-fired furnace doesn't draw very much electrical power.   Jon

Jon Elson <elson@pico-systems.com>: Feb 18 08:47PM -0600 Peter W. wrote:   > rod. The three times we have had to use it for more than a couple of > hours, it has worked nicely. Usually, we run a single-ended extension cord > to our neighbors for their refrigerator as well.   Yes, we have a much smaller generator. We have only used it once for an extended outage. It was WONDERFUL to have it, though. We ran extension cords all through the house, and ran the refrigerator, freezer, cell phone chargers and the furnace.   Since the events where this has been needed are so rare, having to rewire the furnace is not a big deal. I'm more worried about the gas valve thermocouple going out in the middle of the night.   Jon

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"ohg...@gmail.com" <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Feb 19 03:35PM -0800 > > > yep, voltages remained the same. still erratic.. replacing the PS.. Thanks for your help.. > > I think I have a KU power supply in stock. Let me free run it and check those voltages before you buy a board. Samsung does some weird things on certain models. I'll post later today when I get to work. > OK,..     The KU board I have puts over 300 V on the electros near the LED connector with the main and LEDs disconnected (just AC on the bench). If you're not getting voltage near the LED connector the power supply is most likely bad. I say most likely because certain versions have slightly different power up protocols, but I'd be fairly confident it's your problem from my chair.

Hilda Winkler <hildawinkler77@gmail.com>: Feb 19 07:18PM -0800 > > > I think I have a KU power supply in stock. Let me free run it and check those voltages before you buy a board. Samsung does some weird things on certain models. I'll post later today when I get to work. > > OK,.. > The KU board I have puts over 300 V on the electros near the LED connector with the main and LEDs disconnected (just AC on the bench). If you're not getting voltage near the LED connector the power supply is most likely bad. I say most likely because certain versions have slightly different power up protocols, but I'd be fairly confident it's your problem from my chair.   is the ps board you have compatible with my tv.???

"ohg...@gmail.com" <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Feb 20 04:38AM -0800 > > > OK,.. > > The KU board I have puts over 300 V on the electros near the LED connector with the main and LEDs disconnected (just AC on the bench). If you're not getting voltage near the LED connector the power supply is most likely bad. I say most likely because certain versions have slightly different power up protocols, but I'd be fairly confident it's your problem from my chair. > is the ps board you have compatible with my tv.???   Not sure, there are several screen sizes and LED arrangements that differ between models for the KU series. Some of the KUs have a plug in wire harness for the LEDs and others plug directly into the display with an edge connector. There is a "version" number on the model number label, usually four characters. Get that version number and I'll check.

Hilda Winkler <hildawinkler77@gmail.com>: Feb 20 06:49AM -0800 > > > The KU board I have puts over 300 V on the electros near the LED connector with the main and LEDs disconnected (just AC on the bench). If you're not getting voltage near the LED connector the power supply is most likely bad. I say most likely because certain versions have slightly different power up protocols, but I'd be fairly confident it's your problem from my chair. > > is the ps board you have compatible with my tv.??? > Not sure, there are several screen sizes and LED arrangements that differ between models for the KU series. Some of the KUs have a plug in wire harness for the LEDs and others plug directly into the display with an edge connector. There is a "version" number on the model number label, usually four characters. Get that version number and I'll check. OK, the version number is.. : FAO1...

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"ohg...@gmail.com" <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Feb 18 09:02AM -0800 > Hi Group, can someone help please, im working on a Samsung un55ku650dfxzaTV, that has no pic, no power standby light blinking. when testing the PS board on pins 3,5,7,9,.. i get 14v to 8v fluctuating, legend says they're supposed to 13v on all 4,.. im assuming leaky cap.. the filter caps read 395v on both,.. any help will be taken seriously,   Disconnect the power cable between the main board and the power supply. With the main disconnected, the power supply and go into free-run when AC is applied. All marked voltages should appear and the backlights should turn on. If the back lights turn on, your LEDs are OK and it's likely a bad main, but there could still be a problem on the power supply. If the back lights don't turn on and you get 300V across the 450V electrolytics near the LED connector, you've got an open LED inside the display.

Hilda Winkler <hildawinkler77@gmail.com>: Feb 18 02:39PM -0800 > On Wednesday, February 17, 2021 at 3:59:00 PM UTC-5, hildawi...@gmail.com wrote: > > Hi Group, can someone help please, im working on a Samsung un55ku650dfxzaTV, that has no pic, no power standby light blinking. when testing the PS board on pins 3,5,7,9,.. i get 14v to 8v fluctuating, legend says they're supposed to 13v on all 4,.. im assuming leaky cap.. the filter caps read 395v on both,.. any help will be taken seriously, > Disconnect the power cable between the main board and the power supply. With the main disconnected, the power supply and go into free-run when AC is applied. All marked voltages should appear and the backlights should turn on. If the back lights turn on, your LEDs are OK and it's likely a bad main, but there could still be a problem on the power supply. If the back lights don't turn on and you get 300V across the 450V electrolytics near the LED connector, you've got an open LED inside the display.     I Disconnect the power cable between the main board and the power supply, no backlights, still erratic voltages on pins 3,5,7,9.. and also erratic on the caps near the led connector, no where near the voltage you said, more like 106v down to 90v..

"ohg...@gmail.com" <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Feb 18 04:04PM -0800 > > > Hi Group, can someone help please, im working on a Samsung un55ku650dfxzaTV, that has no pic, no power standby light blinking. when testing the PS board on pins 3,5,7,9,.. i get 14v to 8v fluctuating, legend says they're supposed to 13v on all 4,.. im assuming leaky cap.. the filter caps read 395v on both,.. any help will be taken seriously, > > Disconnect the power cable between the main board and the power supply. With the main disconnected, the power supply and go into free-run when AC is applied. All marked voltages should appear and the backlights should turn on. If the back lights turn on, your LEDs are OK and it's likely a bad main, but there could still be a problem on the power supply. If the back lights don't turn on and you get 300V across the 450V electrolytics near the LED connector, you've got an open LED inside the display. > I Disconnect the power cable between the main board and the power supply, no backlights, still erratic voltages on pins 3,5,7,9.. and also erratic on the caps near the led connector, no where near the voltage you said, more like 106v down to 90v..     Disconnect the LEDs from the power supply and leave the main disconnected, plug in the AC. If the voltages return, an LED burned through and shorted to the metal backed LED strip which is now shorted to the backside of the display "chassis". You can try reconnecting the LED harness and physically float the power supply board off the back pan (you want to isolate it from cold ground) by putting it in a shallow cardboard box or put a heavy blanket between the board and the chassis. The LEDs might light, but if they do, there will be a 300V potential between the now floating ground connections of the power supply and the cold chassis ground, so be careful not to get whacked. If it works, do not be tempted to permanently float the power board off the chassis because reconnecting to the main will ground it again...   If the voltages still stay down after disconnecting the LEDs and the main, replace the supply.

Hilda Winkler <hildawinkler77@gmail.com>: Feb 18 10:09PM -0800 > > I Disconnect the power cable between the main board and the power supply, no backlights, still erratic voltages on pins 3,5,7,9.. and also erratic on the caps near the led connector, no where near the voltage you said, more like 106v down to 90v.. > Disconnect the LEDs from the power supply and leave the main disconnected, plug in the AC. If the voltages return, an LED burned through and shorted to the metal backed LED strip which is now shorted to the backside of the display "chassis". You can try reconnecting the LED harness and physically float the power supply board off the back pan (you want to isolate it from cold ground) by putting it in a shallow cardboard box or put a heavy blanket between the board and the chassis. The LEDs might light, but if they do, there will be a 300V potential between the now floating ground connections of the power supply and the cold chassis ground, so be careful not to get whacked. If it works, do not be tempted to permanently float the power board off the chassis because reconnecting to the main will ground it again...   > If the voltages still stay down after disconnecting the LEDs and the main, replace the supply.     yep, voltages remained the same. still erratic.. replacing the PS.. Thanks for your help..

"ohg...@gmail.com" <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Feb 19 04:42AM -0800 > > Disconnect the LEDs from the power supply and leave the main disconnected, plug in the AC. If the voltages return, an LED burned through and shorted to the metal backed LED strip which is now shorted to the backside of the display "chassis". You can try reconnecting the LED harness and physically float the power supply board off the back pan (you want to isolate it from cold ground) by putting it in a shallow cardboard box or put a heavy blanket between the board and the chassis. The LEDs might light, but if they do, there will be a 300V potential between the now floating ground connections of the power supply and the cold chassis ground, so be careful not to get whacked. If it works, do not be tempted to permanently float the power board off the chassis because reconnecting to the main will ground it again...   > > If the voltages still stay down after disconnecting the LEDs and the main, replace the supply. > yep, voltages remained the same. still erratic.. replacing the PS.. Thanks for your help..   I think I have a KU power supply in stock. Let me free run it and check those voltages before you buy a board. Samsung does some weird things on certain models. I'll post later today when I get to work.

Hilda Winkler <hildawinkler77@gmail.com>: Feb 19 07:19AM -0800 > > > If the voltages still stay down after disconnecting the LEDs and the main, replace the supply. > > yep, voltages remained the same. still erratic.. replacing the PS.. Thanks for your help.. > I think I have a KU power supply in stock. Let me free run it and check those voltages before you buy a board. Samsung does some weird things on certain models. I'll post later today when I get to work.   OK,..

Jon Elson <elson@pico-systems.com>: Feb 18 08:47PM -0600 Peter W. wrote:   > rod. The three times we have had to use it for more than a couple of > hours, it has worked nicely. Usually, we run a single-ended extension cord > to our neighbors for their refrigerator as well.   Yes, we have a much smaller generator. We have only used it once for an extended outage. It was WONDERFUL to have it, though. We ran extension cords all through the house, and ran the refrigerator, freezer, cell phone chargers and the furnace.   Since the events where this has been needed are so rare, having to rewire the furnace is not a big deal. I'm more worried about the gas valve thermocouple going out in the middle of the night.   Jon

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