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"Peter W." <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Feb 28 08:16AM -0800 > As long as it does not actually get charged before or during the time > that it is near the sensitive circuitry, it should not cause damage.   There is a very long stretch between "should not" and "will not". When the proper means-and-methods are readily available, one *should not* take the lesser path.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

"jurb...@gmail.com" <jurb6006@gmail.com>: Feb 27 09:30AM -0800 Not that hard, for the most part the wires of the same color re interchangeable.   https://www.smpspowersupply.com/connector_atx_pinout.GIF   might help.   Note if you ever want to try that again you need a couple of things. First the green wire on pin 11 or 177 needs to be grounded to turn it on. Then to keep it on you must load the 5 volt about an amp, but you might get by with less. I power resistor 4.7 ohms would do bt it has to be at least 5 watts, and it WILL warm up so you have to kinda insulate it. Unless you want to use a big ass 20 watt.

bruce bowser <bruce2bowser@gmail.com>: Feb 28 05:09AM -0800 On Friday, February 26, 2021 at 1:11:20 PM UTC-5, Abandoned_Trolley wrote: > On 29/01/2021 13:57, Tim R wrote:   > > I will admit that I have also cut a cable too close to a connection and quickly regretted it.   > Any wire cut to length is too short   Cut it too long, the boss might gripe. Cut it too short, you're fired.

"jurb...@gmail.com" <jurb6006@gmail.com>: Feb 27 09:42AM -0800 Lately I work on audio and have long thought that I get the shit that has already been gone through but I think I have ALMOST seen it all.   This amp in a receiver, not the greatest but is vintage, whatever it needed outputs though I don't know why.   So it is offset bigtime. The problem ? A 27K going to the emitters of the diff pair. So with that replaced it centers the voltage and all it supposeedly well but it has distortion. Wracked my brain or a bit and I decided to go inoto detail mode. What do I find ?   An 2.2K ohm resistor where an 18 ohm belongs. What's more it looked like it had never been changed or if so it was a very long time ago because the connections had the same dust on them as the rest of it.   Shit like this is not normal, and I am dealing with more and more of it.   Then there is this quad unit, outputs good but it had more bad transistors than you could sweep off the floor. get the amp fixed and a channel is cutting out. Bad connection ? Nope, a transistor. Got that fixed and now off to another board that is no doubt full of bad transistors.   Life is trip, think of the destination.

"ohg...@gmail.com" <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Feb 27 12:27PM -0800 > Shit like this is not normal, and I am dealing with more and more of it.   > Then there is this quad unit, outputs good but it had more bad transistors than you could sweep off the floor. get the amp fixed and a channel is cutting out. Bad connection ? Nope, a transistor. Got that fixed and now off to another board that is no doubt full of bad transistors.   > Life is trip, think of the destination.   The only time I really remember transistors being a red flag (other than early Germaniums) were some small Hitachi signal transistors from the 70s-80s - the TO-92 ones with the beveled top. Those things would go leaky or open or intermittent (their choice). It got to the point back then that I just automatically changed them whenever I saw one in anything I worked on. Pretty much eliminated any rechecks.

Curly Valentine <newjeffinjapan@gmail.com>: Feb 27 10:44AM -0800 > I didn't see any obvious design or implementation flubs (that I could easily correct). I do question why the metal block to the yogurt well was over 1 inch long.   > Hope this info helps someone. > J Very helpful - to clarify - was your repair successful, and is it still running? What is the Cuisinart replacement? The whole yogurt maker? or just the TEC?

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