Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 2 updates in 2 topics

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JC <Chipbee40_SpamNo@yahoo.com>: Sep 30 11:12AM -0400

Trevor Wilson wrote:
> even schematics.
 
> TIA
 
> Trevor Wilson
 
not familiar with the amp and not an audio guy but:
15Khz sounds like switching supply noise? Bad caps on power rails?
JC
micky <NONONOmisc07@fmguy.com>: Sep 29 08:47PM -0400

In alt.home.repair, on Wed, 21 Sep 2022 14:07:27 +0200, "Carlos E.R."
>> flat. BUT - you do have to have a working unit to learn from even if its
>> on its last legs! C+
 
>Good to know, thanks.
 
Yes indeed. Thanks Charlie+ I put it in my Amazon shopping cart for
next time I order things, although it's about $9 or 10 there and $5 or 6
other places with shipping. I've found other places to be reliable,
although harder to r eturn, but I almost never return anything and I
don't know why I'd return this, so I'm asking myself, Why do I even
consider buying from Amazon.
 
>I wonder, if someone could publish libraries of codes to teach remotes
>the "language" of some other remote in the library. Would save effort
>and time.
 
I had a long term plan to compare the 3-digit device codes that come in
various instruction to see if at least they are the same. But I'll
never get around to do doing the compare.
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 3 updates in 2 topics

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Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Sep 27 04:42PM -0700

ohg...@gmail.com wrote:
=====================
 
> Trevor Wilson wrote:
.
> > This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
> > www.avast.com
 
> Will they supply parts? Even buying the complete guts can't cost as much as their charge plus freight.
 
** The unit is nearly 40 years old.
Consists of one PCB in a box.
 
FYI TW is an agent for an audio product with the exact same policy.
 
Karma ??
 
..... Phil
"ohg...@gmail.com" <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Sep 28 06:40AM -0700


> > Will they supply parts? Even buying the complete guts can't cost as much as their charge plus freight.
 
 
> ** The unit is nearly 40 years old.
> Consists of one PCB in a box.
 
Fair enough, but if they offered to "repair" the unit, they must either have parts or a substitute board I would imagine, unless the repair cost is actually an exchange cost with a later model.
Tim R <timothy42bach@gmail.com>: Sep 27 07:17PM -0700

The brand Peter found was delivered, packed in an unusual cardboard mesh wrap.
 
I had already wired the fixture for double end power but as they were unshunted tombstones converting to single end was easy. They are much brighter than the plugplay ones, but not as bright as I'd hoped. I'll post again when they burn out. Anybody had one of these fail?
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 5 updates in 3 topics

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legg <legg@nospam.magma.ca>: Sep 27 09:09AM -0400

On Mon, 26 Sep 2022 06:03:06 +1000, Trevor Wilson
>even schematics.
 
>TIA
 
>Trevor Wilson
 
You can start by trying to locate the source w/r to different
gain settings in the signal chain.
 
So how can you make it worse, first. Then you can concentrate on
smaller sections of the circuitry, without the schematic.
 
You seem to be happy running without that specific channel -
complainibg about feed-through only - so just killing
the section may be enough of a fix to satisfy your customer,
if you can't cure the actual local fault.
 
RL
"ohg...@gmail.com" <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Sep 27 06:52AM -0700

On Sunday, September 25, 2022 at 4:03:07 PM UTC-4, Trevor Wilson wrote:
 
> --
> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
> www.avast.com
 
 
Will they supply parts? Even buying the complete guts can't cost as much as their charge plus freight. I think I know the answer to that.
 
In Connecticut U.S., we had a law years ago that required any company that sold electronics in our state to supply schematics to a licensed repair facility and free of charge as well (I guess to cut off any attempt to sell schematics for $500 each). When I informed a company (can't recall which one) that they had to supply me a schematic by state law, they essentially told me to pound sand.
 
We definitely need "right to repair" laws with teeth in them.
Charlie+ <charlie@xxx.net>: Sep 27 07:54AM +0100

On Mon, 26 Sep 2022 12:43:51 -0400, Bob Engelhardt
>ones, but I thought that it was that copper dissolves in the solder.
>The tip about plating with silver solder was brilliant. I refined my
>tip like that. And I got a big blob which I filed to the shape I wanted.
 
snip
 
Also I forgot to mention, if you need much more rigidity than the copper
gives you - you can up the gauge a bit and use brass wire (silver solder
tip now more essential), check Watts to see you got it about right! C+
Bob Engelhardt <BobEngelhardt@comcast.net>: Sep 26 12:43PM -0400

Thanks for the replies!
 
I know a copper tip doesn't last as long as the iron(?) plated Weller
ones, but I thought that it was that copper dissolves in the solder.
The tip about plating with silver solder was brilliant. I refined my
tip like that. And I got a big blob which I filed to the shape I wanted.
 
I have a temperature controlled iron & just use the gun when I want a
lot of heat on a crude joint. E.g., unsoldering an AC cord.
 
Installing the tip through the sides of the gun's arms actually doubles
the area of contact between the tip & the nut.
Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Sep 26 11:42AM -0700

On Mon, 26 Sep 2022 12:43:51 -0400, Bob Engelhardt
 
>Thanks for the replies!
 
>I know a copper tip doesn't last as long as the iron(?) plated Weller
>ones,
 
Yep. Iron plating on copper:
<https://www.dillonsupply.com/Product/weller-8125n>
"Weller® 8125N Soldering Tip With Hex Nut, For Use With 8200 Universal
Soldering Gun, Solid Copper, Iron Plated"
 
Some interesting details on how iron is plated onto copper:
<https://www.finishing.com/379/18.shtml>
 
>but I thought that it was that copper dissolves in the solder.
 
Correct.
 
>lot of heat on a crude joint. E.g., unsoldering an AC cord.
 
>Installing the tip through the sides of the gun's arms actually doubles
>the area of contact between the tip & the nut.
 
Measure the voltage drop? Fire up a soldering gun and measure the AC
voltage drop between the transformer secondary (threaded rods) and the
base of the tip. I would measure it for you except I don't own a
soldering gun or a thermal imaging camera. I also couldn't find any
info or photos online. I'm looking for a good excuse to buy an IR
camera, but this isn't it.
 
--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
PO Box 272 http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Ben Lomond CA 95005-0272
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 5 updates in 3 topics

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legg <legg@nospam.magma.ca>: Sep 26 07:18AM -0400

On Sat, 24 Sep 2022 12:38:28 -0400, Bob Engelhardt
>must be some problem". I can't see it, so I'm asking - what might be a
>problem?
 
>Thanks
 
That's the way I did it in the late 60's, but only used the thing a
few times in a month, ususlly on solder tag terminals. It was a
what Bob Unruh taught in shops class at the local high school.
 
RL
"Peter W." <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Sep 26 05:44AM -0700

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DS4plN51Deg
 
The Weller replacements are plated copper. Nothing special and not rocket science. The copper wire option will simply not last quite as long as an original as the plating resists damage from the flux, and does not anneal as easily (become soft). But if one is not pounding the tip on the workpiece, that should not be of any issue.
 
Further, if one wishes to be 'elegant', use a hammer to dap the wire lightly to a flattened shape at the tip fold. Even a file to make a point.
 
Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
Joe Jaramillo <joej1959@gmail.com>: Sep 25 11:23AM -0700

I have the same problem on a C 430. I'll be playing either quiet or loud and then a hear A rumbling noise that kind of trails off for a bit and then comes back. Did you ever find out what the root cause was?
 
 
On Wednesday, March 12, 2003 at 9:56:01 AM UTC-8, Michael and Janet Inman wrote:
Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Sep 25 07:40PM -0700

On Sun, 25 Sep 2022 11:23:10 -0700 (PDT), Joe Jaramillo
 
>I have the same problem on a C 430. I'll be playing either quiet or loud and then a hear A rumbling noise that kind of trails off for a bit and then comes back. Did you ever find out what the root cause was?
 
There's an important clue in the text:
"It goes away when you plug headphones"
 
My guess(tm) is it's some form of microphonics. That's where the
speakers cause some electribuc component to vibrate, which then causes
audible noises in the speakers. If the gain and phase of the
amplifier is correct, it will produce low frequency feedback, which is
the rumbling noise you hear. If the noise was a high pitched squeal,
then it would be high frequency feedback.
 
In your case, you have a "C 430". That might be a Yamaha NX-C430
speaker system. The system does not have any built in amplifier(s),
so there's nothing wrong with the speakers. I suggest you remove your
speakers from the amplifier or receiver case, and the microphonics
will likely be reduced or stop.
 
Incidentally, you're only 19 years too late to catch the original
posters.
 
--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
PO Box 272 http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Ben Lomond CA 95005-0272
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
Trevor Wilson <trevor@rageaudio.com.au>: Sep 26 06:03AM +1000

I have a Meyer Sound 833 control unit on my bench. It has a weird fault
that appears to centre around a 15kHz oscillation that affects one
channel, directly, but is bleeding through to the other channel.
 
Meyer Sound refuses to supply a schematic. They will repair it for a set
charge of US$592.50 (nice round figure). That's a bitter pill to
swallow, but it gets worse. I (and my customer) are here in Australia
and I figure on the freight charges to blow that figure out to around
US$1,000.00 or so.
 
I am hopeful that someone has some experience with this product. Maybe
even schematics.
 
TIA
 
Trevor Wilson
 
 
--
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
www.avast.com
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 6 updates in 4 topics

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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 6 updates in 2 topics

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Bob Engelhardt <BobEngelhardt@comcast.net>: Sep 24 12:38PM -0400

I have a Weller soldering gun & the tip burned through. Not having a
spare, I took a piece of 12ga copper wire and improvised (I know, it
won't last long). I find it so fiddly to get the ends bent just right
to fit in the holes after passing through the nuts & I saw the way
around it. I passed the wire in through the SIDE & locked in down:
https://i.imgur.com/ojbDuT7.jpg
 
But that seemed too easy. Paraphrasing: "If it seems too easy, there
must be some problem". I can't see it, so I'm asking - what might be a
problem?
 
Thanks
John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Sep 23 01:01PM -0700

(Sorry for the On-Topic post, I'll try not to do it again!)
 
I haven't been able to figure out a suitable substitute for this DSC
Electronics (Korea) device - they call it a "Limiting NTC Device" and
the specs, such as they are, are:
 
DSC-5D-13
Voltage: 240
Imax: 3.8
Iss: 3.8
Max Load Capacitance (uF): 700
Class: C4
CA: #
 
Can anyone offer advice on a good replacement? This is used in a Samsung
flat screen wall TV's power supply - TV model is UN55JU7100(FXZC),
version AS02
 
Thanks!
 
John :-#)#
 
--
(Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup)
John's Jukes Ltd.
MOVED to #7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3
(604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
www.flippers.com
"Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."
Martin Rid <martin_riddle@verison.net>: Sep 23 04:33PM -0400

John Robertson <spam@flippers.com> Wrote in message:r
> (Sorry for the On-Topic post, I'll try not to do it again!)I haven't been able to figure out a suitable substitute for this DSC Electronics (Korea) device - they call it a "Limiting NTC Device" and the specs, such as they are, are:DSC-5D-13Voltage: 240Imax: 3.8Iss: 3.8Max Load Capacitance (uF): 700Class: C4CA: #Can anyone offer advice on a good replacement? This is used in a Samsung flat screen wall TV's power supply - TV model is UN55JU7100(FXZC), version AS02Thanks!John :-#)#-- (Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup) John's Jukes Ltd.MOVED to #7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3 (604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) www.flippers.com "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."
 
It's just an in rush current limiter, just find something close.
I'd buy a few, 3.5 to 4.5A devices and see which work the
best.
 
Cheers
 
Cheers
--
 
 
----Android NewsGroup Reader----
https://piaohong.s3-us-west-2.amazonaws.com/usenet/index.html
John Larkin <jlarkin@highlandSNIPMEtechnology.com>: Sep 23 02:40PM -0700

On Fri, 23 Sep 2022 13:01:33 -0700, John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>
wrote:
 
>version AS02
 
>Thanks!
 
>John :-#)#
 
The real thing seems to be available.
"ohg...@gmail.com" <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Sep 24 07:32AM -0700

On Friday, September 23, 2022 at 4:01:42 PM UTC-4, John Robertson wrote:
> (604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
> www.flippers.com
> "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."
 
 
I can mail you one if you want an original.
John Robertson <jrr@flippers.com>: Sep 24 08:01AM -0700


>> Thanks!
 
>> John :-#)#
 
> I can mail you one if you want an original.
 
Thanks for your kind offer - you have mail!
 
John :-#)#
 
--
(Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup)
John's Jukes Ltd.
MOVED to #7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3
(604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
www.flippers.com
"Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 1 update in 1 topic

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"ohg...@gmail.com" <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Sep 22 10:25AM -0700

> Hello all-knowing ones.....
> Heard a slight "pop" from my TC-P42S30, then went black. Turning it back on yielded a black screen, the red power light blinking 14 times. Tried a couple of fixes mentioned online (removing remote batteries then pressing some remote buttons/holding the power button on the set while pressing one of the "up" buttons/leaving set unplugged for 24 hours) No change other than the red power light is on but no longer blinks.Not really skilled enough to open the back of the set. Any other suggestions or advice would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
 
14X on that series of Pannys generally means a blown SN sustain board.
 
What you can try is to take the back cover off and remove and replace every philips head screw on the SN board (left side from behind) making sure they're tight. These screws tended to back out and cause a floating ground issue. Just removing and replacing might get it going. If tightening works (long shot), then I would remove the SN board completely and clean the chassis pan of arcing carbon and replace all the screws. Check the ground pads on the board, they're probably arced as well. I used to flux these and reflow the solder so they ground well to the chassis.
 
I used to rebuild these SN boards in the old days. You'll most likely find shorted mosfets (could be IGBTs, don't recall) and gate driver ICs. These are all surface mount and not easy for an amateur.
 
Best bet if you want to keep it is to buy an SN board from a seller who will guarantee it's actually good. Be careful removing the ribbons from the screen to the board. Tear just one a bit and the TV is junk.
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 6 updates in 3 topics

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"mikespo@live.com" <mikespo@live.com>: Sep 21 10:24PM -0700

Hello all-knowing ones.....
Heard a slight "pop" from my TC-P42S30, then went black. Turning it back on yielded a black screen, the red power light blinking 14 times. Tried a couple of fixes mentioned online (removing remote batteries then pressing some remote buttons/holding the power button on the set while pressing one of the "up" buttons/leaving set unplugged for 24 hours) No change other than the red power light is on but no longer blinks.Not really skilled enough to open the back of the set. Any other suggestions or advice would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
legg <legg@nospam.magma.ca>: Sep 22 07:08AM -0400

On Wed, 21 Sep 2022 22:24:50 -0700 (PDT), "mikespo@live.com"
 
>Hello all-knowing ones.....
>Heard a slight "pop" from my TC-P42S30, then went black. Turning it back on yielded a black screen, the red power light blinking 14 times. Tried a couple of fixes mentioned online (removing remote batteries then pressing some remote buttons/holding the power button on the set while pressing one of the "up" buttons/leaving set unplugged for 24 hours) No change other than the red power light is on but no longer blinks.Not really skilled enough to open the back of the set. Any other suggestions or advice would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
 
You're probably looking at driver board replacement,
but you'll have to open it up, just to check the fuse.
 
If you're not comfortable with this, consider taking
it to a listed service location.
 
Plasmas are no longer in production.
 
RL
Mark Lloyd <not.email@all.invalid>: Sep 21 12:53PM -0500

On 9/21/22 01:21, Charlie+ wrote:
 
[snip]
 
earning remotes work well and are cheap
> enough. All buttons programmable and remembered even if battery goes
> flat. BUT - you do have to have a working unit to learn from even if its
> on its last legs! C+
 
30 years ago I knew someone with an RCA TV where the remote failed, and
a new one cost about $70. RCA (then) did something strange with the
volume buttons so you couldn't use a $10 universal remote.
 
--
95 days until the winter celebration (Sunday, December 25, 2022 12:00:00
AM for 1 day).
 
Mark Lloyd
http://notstupid.us/
 
"Formerly, when religion was strong and science weak, men mistook magic
for medicine; now, when science is strong and religion weak, men mistake
medicine for magic." [Thomas Szasz]
three_jeeps <jjhudak@gmail.com>: Sep 21 11:30AM -0700

On Tuesday, September 20, 2022 at 2:20:10 PM UTC-4, Carlos E.R. wrote:
 
> No one sells that ancient remote control AFAIK.
 
> --
> Cheers, Carlos.
 
Yes, some mfg remote have better longevity than the others. Taking apart the remote control and cleaning the button sheet and the circuit board with alcohol (rubbing@70% or 90%) will remove the oils. The remote should then operate normally. Don't scrub the circuit board - gently wipe it with a antistatic wipe dipped in alcohol. If really in a pinch, a cotton swab/ball will work.
Get used to doing this - I have several remotes that require this cleaning process every 1-3 years, depending on the remote.
At some point in the life of the remote, the conductive coating on the silicon pad keys will erode away and that key function will no longer work. The contact material can be reapplied but since making a contact is a mechanical function, the material will erode again.
Good luck
J
three_jeeps <jjhudak@gmail.com>: Sep 21 11:34AM -0700

On Wednesday, September 21, 2022 at 8:12:10 AM UTC-4, Carlos E.R. wrote:
> still, apparently, intact.
 
> --
> Cheers, Carlos.
I have not seen this happen to kitchen utensils. I have seen it happen to car radio head units, car climate control centers, and hand tools. I don't know of anyway to stop the process or clean up the mess.
legg <legg@nospam.magma.ca>: Sep 21 01:37PM -0400

On Wed, 21 Sep 2022 03:00:54 -0700 (PDT), Jeroni Paul
>> not coment on their lifetime.
 
>I am disappointed with their reliability. I maintain the lights in my bloc of flats and the lift lights years ago used CFL GU10 type bulbs. They were rated a lifetime of 20000h which are 2.5 years as they are always on and they actually lasted about 3.5 years.
 
>Three years ago I installed GU10 led bulbs with a rated lifetime of 50000h, that's 6 years! After two years both bulbs failed with blinking lights. They did not even reach the rated lifetime of CFL. I also see many TV led backlights fail more often than CFL. For now I consider CFL quite more reliable than led.
 
There's a lot of bad design/assembly choices being made in led
replacements for long-tube ccfl replacements.
 
These stem from thermal expansion differences between the led chip
carrier medium and the housing. FR4 doesn't cut it.
 
The use of adhesive simply causes bowing and thermal isolation,
with added mechanical stress on the joints and thermal stress
on the semiconductor.
 
The addition of screw tie-points doesn't correct for this - it
simply determines where the bowing will occur.
 
Only those strips that use a viable thermally conductive substrate
and a slide-able attachment scheme can benefit from semiconductor
reliability, to demonstrate a long operating life.
 
RL
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 10 updates in 3 topics

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"Carlos E.R." <robin_listas@es.invalid>: Sep 20 08:19PM +0200

On 2022-09-20 06:03, Clifford Heath wrote:
> starts to de-polymerise and that's where the liquid comes from - it's
> silicone oil. You can clean it off with alcohol, but that just gives you
> enough time to look for a new remote control.
 
Well, that started to happen when the remote was not old, and several
years later I'm still using that machine. It is my only device that
developed that problem. I have (had, I threw them away this summer) TVs
older than that.
 
No one sells that ancient remote control AFAIK.
 
--
Cheers, Carlos.
micky <NONONOmisc07@fmguy.com>: Sep 20 04:08PM -0400

In sci.electronics.repair, on Tue, 20 Sep 2022 20:19:24 +0200, "Carlos
>developed that problem. I have (had, I threw them away this summer) TVs
>older than that.
 
>No one sells that ancient remote control AFAIK.
 
On ebay I found someone who sells universale remotes that he has
programmed for specific devices. They aren't univesal anymore and they
don't come with instructions how to make them universal or any other
model. I think I found it just by googling the model number, but on ebay
where I didn't expect them.
 
One time I think he wrote me that he was going to stop because he was't
making enough money anymore. I said Raise your price. He still would
have been cheaper then new old stock. (It occurs to me now that I only
know about my particular make and model, and I presume he sold many
different models.) I don't know what he decided to do. He had one
location in the USA and one in England, I think it was.
"Carlos E.R." <robin_listas@es.invalid>: Sep 20 10:33PM +0200

On 2022-09-20 22:08, micky wrote:
> know about my particular make and model, and I presume he sold many
> different models.) I don't know what he decided to do. He had one
> location in the USA and one in England, I think it was.
 
This particular machine is a very good design, but will be made obsolete
soon, if they mandate digital TV to be all in HD (it was scheduled for
this year, I think). My device can't do HD. And the aerial reception in
this room is bad.
 
It is a double tuner for terrestrial digital TV. It can use a shared
folder in a Linux or Windows computer for storage, or connect to an
external, USB2 hard disk. It is capable of making two simultaneous
recordings while playing from disk another program. It can be managed
via a mini web server, once it is flashed with community software
instead of the original one. It is, or was, really good. Except for the
remote.
 
I manage it via network, I almost never use the remote control.
 
I only mentioned it as an example of devices that work badly with a remote.
 
 
--
Cheers, Carlos.
"Carlos E.R." <robin_listas@es.invalid>: Sep 21 02:07PM +0200

On 2022-09-21 08:21, Charlie+ wrote:
> enough. All buttons programmable and remembered even if battery goes
> flat. BUT - you do have to have a working unit to learn from even if its
> on its last legs! C+
 
 
Good to know, thanks.
 
I wonder, if someone could publish libraries of codes to teach remotes
the "language" of some other remote in the library. Would save effort
and time.
 
 
--
Cheers, Carlos.
"Carlos E.R." <robin_listas@es.invalid>: Sep 21 02:11PM +0200

On 2022-09-20 06:03, Clifford Heath wrote:
> starts to de-polymerise and that's where the liquid comes from - it's
> silicone oil. You can clean it off with alcohol, but that just gives you
> enough time to look for a new remote control.
 
I wonder if that is the degradation process that happens to kitchen
utensils, that have parts made in some kind of non slippery rubber.
After some years, they degrade and leak something like a glue and have
to be thrown to the garbage, unless the rubber part can be removed and
the thing still works.
 
It is not, apparently, what happened to my remote, as the buttons are
still, apparently, intact.
 
--
Cheers, Carlos.
Bob F <bobnospam@gmail.com>: Sep 21 08:03AM -0700

On 9/20/2022 11:21 PM, Charlie+ wrote:
> enough. All buttons programmable and remembered even if battery goes
> flat. BUT - you do have to have a working unit to learn from even if its
> on its last legs! C+
 
The now discontinued Logitech Harmony remotes have a very extensive list
of supported devices on the support website. They claim they will
continue support. I bought a couple used ones off Ebay for $10-15 and
love their capabilities. The ones with screens will usually offer access
to all the functions of the original remote without having to learn them
from the original remote.
Bob F <bobnospam@gmail.com>: Sep 21 08:08AM -0700

On 9/21/2022 5:11 AM, Carlos E.R. wrote:
> the thing still works.
 
> It is not, apparently, what happened to my remote, as the buttons are
> still, apparently, intact.
 
I had a snap-op screwdriver that had that happen to the black plastic
handle. It would just get sticky gooey crud all over it and leave a
puddle under it in the drawer. I stopped by a snap-on truck one day with
it, and he gave me a new "better" screwdriver in exchange.
Jeroni Paul <JERONI.PAUL@terra.es>: Sep 21 03:00AM -0700

Ralph Mowery wrote:
> The LED replacements did not come ito use before I retired. The
> elecrtronics were not in use for too many years before I retired so can
> not coment on their lifetime.
 
I am disappointed with their reliability. I maintain the lights in my bloc of flats and the lift lights years ago used CFL GU10 type bulbs. They were rated a lifetime of 20000h which are 2.5 years as they are always on and they actually lasted about 3.5 years.
 
Three years ago I installed GU10 led bulbs with a rated lifetime of 50000h, that's 6 years! After two years both bulbs failed with blinking lights. They did not even reach the rated lifetime of CFL. I also see many TV led backlights fail more often than CFL. For now I consider CFL quite more reliable than led.
Tim R <timothy42bach@gmail.com>: Sep 21 05:38AM -0700

On Wednesday, September 21, 2022 at 6:00:56 AM UTC-4, Jeroni Paul wrote:
> > not coment on their lifetime.
> I am disappointed with their reliability. I maintain the lights in my bloc of flats and the lift lights years ago used CFL GU10 type bulbs. They were rated a lifetime of 20000h which are 2.5 years as they are always on and they actually lasted about 3.5 years.
 
> Three years ago I installed GU10 led bulbs with a rated lifetime of 50000h, that's 6 years! After two years both bulbs failed with blinking lights. They did not even reach the rated lifetime of CFL. I also see many TV led backlights fail more often than CFL. For now I consider CFL quite more reliable than led.
 
You may be right. I've had good life from CFLs, even stopped writing the date on the base.
 
I haven't had an Led tube fail, but have had a couple of bulbs burn out. Still most are going strong. Might it depend on how the fixtures trap heat?
 
I've yet to see a traffic light where all the leds work.
Charlie+ <charlie@xxx.net>: Sep 21 07:21AM +0100

On Tue, 20 Sep 2022 16:08:09 -0400, micky <NONONOmisc07@fmguy.com> wrote
as underneath :
 
>know about my particular make and model, and I presume he sold many
>different models.) I don't know what he decided to do. He had one
>location in the USA and one in England, I think it was.
 
The Chunghop L336 universal learning remotes work well and are cheap
enough. All buttons programmable and remembered even if battery goes
flat. BUT - you do have to have a working unit to learn from even if its
on its last legs! C+
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 4 updates in 2 topics

9:40 AM Penedão 0 comments
Frank <"frank "@frank.net>: Sep 19 02:15PM -0400

On 9/19/2022 12:00 PM, Bob F wrote:
 
>> Something in that remote picks humidity from air.
 
> Is there a rubbery or even plastic material there that could be breaking
> down? Some can release gooey liquid.
 
micky should try Miralax.
"Carlos E.R." <robin_listas@es.invalid>: Sep 19 09:41PM +0200

On 2022-09-19 18:00, Bob F wrote:
 
>> Something in that remote picks humidity from air.
 
> Is there a rubbery or even plastic material there that could be breaking
> down? Some can release gooey liquid.
 
Nope. None that I could see.
 
 
--
Cheers, Carlos.
Clifford Heath <no_spam@please.net>: Sep 20 02:03PM +1000

On 20/9/22 05:41, Carlos E.R. wrote:
 
>> Is there a rubbery or even plastic material there that could be
>> breaking down? Some can release gooey liquid.
 
> Nope. None that I could see.
 
The buttons are usually molded into a silicone sheet. The silicoen
starts to de-polymerise and that's where the liquid comes from - it's
silicone oil. You can clean it off with alcohol, but that just gives you
enough time to look for a new remote control.
three_jeeps <jjhudak@gmail.com>: Sep 19 10:29AM -0700

On Monday, September 19, 2022 at 9:01:55 AM UTC-4, Peter W. wrote:
 
> Did I charge the sellers for those repairs? Absolutely not! And why it is a hobby, not a business. Both did make a small contribution to the club, however.
 
> Peter Wieck
> Melrose Park, PA
 
Having spent many years on ebay, I'd say your definitions are fairly accurate. Over the last year, the electronic stuff I tend to look at falls under the category of Untested (or a 'active' statement - plugged it in and nothing blew up/light came on). Most of the postings seem to be done by people who are clueless about electronic things. They stumbled on something electronic and want to make a buck on ebay. The garage sale recyclers are some of the types that drive me nuts. They find something that 'looks complicated' (e.g. a older ham transceiver for example), with the 'untested' label, and list it for the price of a 'working-tested' unit.
 
If you are into vintage TV and broadcasting, you may want to check out this site:
https://www.earlytelevision.org/
Some years ago, I helped diagnose some old TV sets and a vidicon on their mobile broadcast truck. At one point they had intentions of setting up a 'early 50's' broadcast studio.
Neat place if you want to get a look of early TV receivers from their inception through the 70s
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