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jurb6006@gmail.com: Apr 30 01:31AM -0700 This is all I got, I cannot afford a new one. I can't work because of my eyesight but it isn't quite enough to give me disability, even though I would not be able to run a cash register now.   Anyway, we got hit with bedbugs. Two schools got closed over it. It was an epidemic or whatever.   Anyway, my laptop is infested. I have researched and found that when exposed to temperatures of 135 F for like 45 minutes it kills them and their eggs. The government and the companies who do this assure us that this is safe. It probably is if not running.   I just checked the oven, the lowest it will go is 170 F. Is that safe for a non, running (at the time) computer ? Could it damage the screen if by nothing else but expansion and contraction ?   We are about to bring in new matress and whatever, but anything happening to this laptop IS NOT AN OPTION.

Adrian Caspersz <email@here.invalid>: Apr 30 10:08AM +0100 > screen if by nothing else but expansion and contraction ?   > We are about to bring in new matress and whatever, but anything > happening to this laptop IS NOT AN OPTION.   http://bedbugskilledwithgammairradiation.blogspot.co.uk/     -- Adrian C

N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Apr 30 10:51AM +0100 > Anyway, my laptop is infested. I have researched and found that when exposed to temperatures of 135 F for like 45 minutes it kills them and their eggs.. The government and the companies who do this assure us that this is safe. It probably is if not running.   > I just checked the oven, the lowest it will go is 170 F. Is that safe for a non, running (at the time) computer ? Could it damage the screen if by nothing else but expansion and contraction ?   > We are about to bring in new matress and whatever, but anything happening to this laptop IS NOT AN OPTION.   Don't rely on oven gauges, I nearly came a cropper using what I thought was a low temp set oven. Place a thermometer on insulation at the bottom of the oven to check first. I had to leave the door open a crack to get low enough temp

adrian@poppyrecords.invalid.invalid (Adrian Tuddenham): Apr 30 11:11AM +0100 > nothing else but expansion and contraction ?   > We are about to bring in new matress and whatever, but anything happening > to this laptop IS NOT AN OPTION.   Consider Isopropanol, but check with the handbook first to make sure it will not damage any plastic components such as the screen. If there are parts of the laptop that might be harmed by liquid, leave the machine in a sealed plastic bag with the Isopropanol soaked into an absorbent pad underneath it and let the vapour saturate it for a day or two.   Be careful to make sure all the vapour has dispersed before switching the machine on again, Isopropanol is very flammable and the vapour could explode.   Usual disclaimer: at your own risk.     -- ~ Adrian Tuddenham ~ (Remove the ".invalid"s and add ".co.uk" to reply) www.poppyrecords.co.uk

rickman <gnuarm@gmail.com>: Apr 30 09:09AM -0400 > Anyway, my laptop is infested. I have researched and found that when exposed to temperatures of 135 F for like 45 minutes it kills them and their eggs. The government and the companies who do this assure us that this is safe. It probably is if not running.   > I just checked the oven, the lowest it will go is 170 F. Is that safe for a non, running (at the time) computer ? Could it damage the screen if by nothing else but expansion and contraction ?   > We are about to bring in new matress and whatever, but anything happening to this laptop IS NOT AN OPTION.   Why can't you treat the laptop the same way you are treating the rest of the place?   I've never had them, thank God, but I have seen info about them and the temperature thing is supposed to be for real. It is a way to treat your entire apartment in fact as insecticides don't work very well. It seems to be hard to get the chemicals into the spaces where the bugs hide.   --   Rick C

Boris Mohar <borism_void_@sympatico.ca>: Apr 30 09:18AM -0400 >Anyway, my laptop is infested. I have researched and found that when exposed to temperatures of 135 F for like 45 minutes it kills them and their eggs. The government and the companies who do this assure us that this is safe. It probably is if not running.   >I just checked the oven, the lowest it will go is 170 F. Is that safe for a non, running (at the time) computer ? Could it damage the screen if by nothing else but expansion and contraction ?   >We are about to bring in new matress and whatever, but anything happening to this laptop IS NOT AN OPTION.   Check how professionals use dry ice for bedbugs. Saw it on TV.     Regards,   Boris Mohar   Got Knock? - see: Viatrack Printed Circuit Designs (among other things) http://www.viatrack.ca   void _-void-_ in the obvious place     --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus

amdx <nojunk@knology.net>: Apr 30 11:13AM -0500 On 4/30/2017 8:18 AM, Boris Mohar wrote:   >> I just checked the oven, the lowest it will go is 170 F. Is that safe for a non, running (at the time) computer ? Could it damage the screen if by nothing else but expansion and contraction ?   >> We are about to bring in new matress and whatever, but anything happening to this laptop IS NOT AN OPTION.   > Check how professionals use dry ice for bedbugs. Saw it on TV.   The dry ice thing is interesting but, it seems to be a way to attract them. Yes, you can kill the ones you attract, but with a bed bug infestation it seems you need almost 100% kill otherwise they just breed and you are right back where you started. "An individual bed bug can lay 200 to 250 eggs in her lifetime. The eggs hatch in about 6 to 10 days and the newly emerged bed bug nymphs seek a blood meal." I also found 118* for 70 minutes or 122* for 20 minutes. I'd rig up something and do 118* for 2 hours. That seems much safer than 138*.   Mikek   --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus

Tomos Davies <cariadmenywod@gmail.com>: Apr 30 02:43AM In <news:590545ec$0$40425$c3e8da3$b280bf18@news.astraweb.com>, JF Mezei suggested:   > the fence has a less "amazing" implementation but what it does, it does > it better. Android tends to be first with many features but implemented > with less quality.   That is a reasonable statement. But is it correct?   I only speak facts. And I'm very reasonable since I'm a logical thinker.   Most iOS users appear to be so inextricably emotionally attached to whatever the Apple Marketing Machine tells them to think, that their own words indicate that they can't even think facts on their own.   Contrary facts seem to befuddle them. But the Apple Marketing Machine message soothes them.   So, maybe it is true that the Apple portrait mode ends up with superior results in the final form (that is, in the photo itself).   Maybe it is true. But maybe it's not true.   Has *anyone* shown facts either way in this thread (or in the thread dedicated to this topic)? Nope.   So everyone is just guessing.   What we need is very simple, since it's a fact that both Android and Apple iOS phones have portrait mode.   We need to find a reference that does a blind test of the results. It's pretty easy to do the test.   1. Person 1 shoots a set of portrait mode photos with iOS. 2. They shoot the same set using Android under the same conditions. 3. A different person, a digital photo expert, compares the results   It's a simple test to run, and, depending on the conditions and the expertise of the digital photo expert, they can pronounce whether there is any meaningful difference in the quality of the results.   It's a valid question. Does anyone have a pointer to such a reference?

"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Apr 30 04:33AM -0700 The Troll is back. Please don't feed the troll.

N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Apr 30 10:55AM +0100 Not deliberately putting a data-stick in the path of a discharge, but cannot rule out the possibility of a casual situation like that. Removing nylon/polyester clothing , hearing daytime and seeing flashes at night, on removing clothing, corruptible possibility with a datastick inside such clothing?

"Ian Field" <gangprobing.alien1@virginmedia.com>: Apr 29 09:01PM +0100 Anyone know what to type into the server entry in WLM2009?   Its virginmedia but the email address is an old ntlworld.com.   Thanks for any help.

philo <philo@privacy.net>: Apr 29 05:03PM -0500 On 4/29/2017 3:01 PM, Ian Field wrote: > Anyone know what to type into the server entry in WLM2009?   > Its virginmedia but the email address is an old ntlworld.com.   > Thanks for any help.       https://support.office.com/en-us/article/Set-up-email-in-the-2009-version-of-Windows-Live-Mail-8f596cb1-1e6a-4f0d-98d8-0cecf804dc65#__finding_my_server

garci66@gmail.com: Apr 29 02:39PM -0700 I just did a 47" LG repair and was surprisingly straightforward. I followed the video (was a very similar TV) and took around hour and a half. Having a friend to help you is great though especially when lifting the LCD out of the frame.   The room I needed was a small (single) bed and a little table to place the TV when disassembling it.   Only one led had blown so I ended up just short circuit'ing it. You can tell a bit that the background is darker but worked well.

stratus46@yahoo.com: Apr 29 11:41AM -0700 > Philips rotors with the plastic gears that break in a windstorm? Is > it even possible to buy a good quality rotor, (besides a really > expensive Ham job) anymore? Lenny   Nobody using a DVR? Changing the antenna while in record ruins the capture. Home many locations are they trying to receive?   G²

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Apr 29 12:28PM -0700 >Nobody using a DVR? Changing the antenna while in record ruins >the capture. Home many locations are they trying to receive? >G²   Rotating or changing the antenna while receiving a program is only required if the signal is lousy and the user is trying to improve it. No need to rotate the antenna if the signal quality is good. If they were recording a lousy quality signal, I would think that rotating the antenna might improve the situation rather than ruining the capture.   -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

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"Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terrell@earthlink.net>: Apr 29 03:23AM -0400 >> THe condenser helps keep the spark from occurring across the points >> instead of at the spark plug   > I've got no familiarity with what a condenser is (outside of HVAC) in car circuitry. But thanks for saying what it does.     'Condenser' is an outdated name for capacitors.     -- Never piss off an Engineer!   They don't get mad.   They don't get even.   They go for over unity! ;-)

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Apr 29 12:39AM -0700 Michael Terrell wrote:   > 'Condenser' is an outdated name for capacitors.   ** Unless you are talking about "condenser" microphones.   Where the old fashioned name has somehow stuck.       .... Phil

Ralph Mowery <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: Apr 29 10:09AM -0400 In article <3da70b7d-0754-4a92-9b35-5b8292cb2e58@googlegroups.com>, pallison49@gmail.com says...   > ** Unless you are talking about "condenser" microphones.   > Where the old fashioned name has somehow stuck.   Seems that capacitor is most often used in electronics for about the last 50 to 60 years ,but condenser stuck with the one that goes across the points on an engine.

rickman <gnuarm@gmail.com>: Apr 29 10:11AM -0400 >>> ignition circuit with a ballast resistor. Anybody know? >>> Thanks, >>> Eric   I don't actually see the rest of this thread, did this question get an answer?   The reason the resistor is there is to limit the current in the coil when the ignition is on but the starter is not engaged. When you crank the starter the batter voltage is low, so the resistor is cut out of the circuit by a relay or switch to give a good spark. The rest of the time the resistor is there to limit the current when the battery is at full voltage.   --   Rick C

rickman <gnuarm@gmail.com>: Apr 29 10:12AM -0400 On 4/29/2017 10:09 AM, Ralph Mowery wrote:   > Seems that capacitor is most often used in electronics for about the > last 50 to 60 years ,but condenser stuck with the one that goes across > the points on an engine.   Just like they still call them points when they are shaped like buttons.   --   Rick C

"Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terrell@earthlink.net>: Apr 29 03:47AM -0400 > It's a Altec Lansing 9444A power amp. It appears it was made around 1988 > to 1990. > And Altec Lansing is top of the line equipment.     It was popular for industrial and commercial sound systems. It was a US company, and I've seen their equipment for decades. I've been out of the business for years, so I don't know if they are still around.   Some stadiums used their equipment, with thousands of watts of amplification, with each amp driving a single zone. Some had N+1 installations that would automatically switch a spare amp into service if needed.     > buy or make some adapters so I can connect 1/4" or RCA jacks to it for > home use. But I know that my speakers wont handle that full power > either, but I suppose I don't have to run it wide open either....     Here is the manual, which shows how to connect an unbalanced input.   <https://www.manualslib.com/download/365773/Altec-Lansing-9444a-Power-Amplifier.html>     -- Never piss off an Engineer!   They don't get mad.   They don't get even.   They go for over unity! ;-)

"Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terrell@earthlink.net>: Apr 29 03:21AM -0400 John Abnarthy wrote: > transfer power of around 12 VDC @ 1 amp between components. Will these > connectors work for that, or is there truly a "balun" that's maybe a > coil of wire that would burn up when used for a power purpose?     I would use these CCTV power connectors:   2-1-x-5-5mm-DC-Power-12V-Male-Female-Jack-Adapter-Plug-Connector-for-CCTV-Camera     http://www.ebay.com/itm/221808269068     -- Never piss off an Engineer!   They don't get mad.   They don't get even.   They go for over unity! ;-)

clare@snyder.on.ca: Apr 28 03:28PM -0400 Buy a special effects smoke machine like the ones that always go on sale around Halloween and mash together some adapter fittings. I bought one on Kijiji for something like $20 Canadian(including a "bottle of smoke"     On Fri, 28 Apr 2017 15:03:41 -0000 (UTC), Tomos Davies

Tomos Davies <cariadmenywod@gmail.com>: Apr 28 08:00PM > https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BP2ffBSD2A0   Nice link! Since I watched it, I'll summrize for those who didn't.   < 1 > Paint can < 2 > Drill two 1/2-inch holes in the lid < 3 > Screw in male-threaded quick-connect for air hoses < 4 > RTV them or put a nut to prevent air leaks < 5 > 3/8-inch tubing on the quick connect < 6 > Regulate air compressor to 2 to 5 psi to test for leaks < 7 > Wet half a rag with baby oil & place in the paint can < 8 > Light the top of the rag and cap the paint can < 9 > INLET is 2psi from the air compressor < 10 > OUTLET is 3/8-inch vinyl tubing filling with smoke Then on the vehicle < 11 > Pull off the power brake vacuum hose from the manifold < 12 > Remove throttle body tube & block the throttle body < 13 > Connect to intake manifold where the brake booster went < 14 > Look for smoke!   The theory is that the fire can be kept going with the air coming in from the compressor and the air pressure of 2psi will push the smoke through the vehicle plumbing.   The caution is that most air compressors don't have a regulator that can go that low reliably, and you don't want too much psi or you cause leaks.   I wonder if a diesel glow plug and hookup to the car battery will be better for generating the smoke from the rag soaked in baby oil (he said mineral oil is the same thing I think).

Tomos Davies <cariadmenywod@gmail.com>: Apr 28 08:04PM In <news:rq57gc1r7qvamvrfr42ogqmcg7a17f84bd@4ax.com>, clare@snyder.on.ca suggested:   > sale around Halloween and mash together some adapter fittings. > I bought one on Kijiji for something like $20 Canadian(including a > "bottle of smoke"   They may work if they have about 2psi of air pressure (or if it can be bottled somehow to leak 2psi through a 3/8ths inch vinyl hose.

jurb6006@gmail.com: Apr 28 03:31PM -0700 There's an easier way to find a vacuum leak.   Disconnect the throttle control motor and spray the hoses with ether, which is starting fluid. When the RPMs go up, there's your leak.   This will set a code so if it is OBD2 you'll need a method to reset it.

ohger1s@gmail.com: Apr 28 04:03PM -0700 > There's an easier way to find a vacuum leak.   > Disconnect the throttle control motor and spray the hoses with ether, which is starting fluid. When the RPMs go up, there's your leak.   > This will set a code so if it is OBD2 you'll need a method to reset it.   Around the engine yes, but there are vacuum lines running all the way back to the gas tank. I had a small evap leak code on one of my cars and it was a bad gas cap. No propane or ether would induce an rpm change back there.

clare@snyder.on.ca: Apr 28 08:33PM -0400 On Fri, 28 Apr 2017 20:00:44 -0000 (UTC), Tomos Davies   >I wonder if a diesel glow plug and hookup to the car battery will be better >for generating the smoke from the rag soaked in baby oil (he said mineral >oil is the same thing I think). Use a propane regulator to regulate the pressure down to the 2psi range., and yes, most baby oil is "mineral oil" and yes a deisel glow plug can be used to make the smoke - just make sure it is a 12 volt glow plug, not one that is connected in a series string. I've got a fog machine - a little more elegany solution with less danger and still to a degree DIY - and a lot cheaper than the "made for the job" unit.

clare@snyder.on.ca: Apr 28 08:39PM -0400 On Fri, 28 Apr 2017 20:04:00 -0000 (UTC), Tomos Davies >> "bottle of smoke"   >They may work if they have about 2psi of air pressure (or if it can be >bottled somehow to leak 2psi through a 3/8ths inch vinyl hose. Not sure what the actual pressure is but it is enough to disburse the smoke throughout the system and not enough to damage anytging - particularly if you use a rubber glove as a "plug" on the intake system.As long as you are not "given the finger" by the glove, the pressure is safe - and you control it with the "trigger" button. I have not made the custom adapter yet, but I plan on making a sort of "heat exchanger" to fasten to the outlet to cool it before connecting the hose. An aluminum or copper "pipe" with fins fastened or machined on it.

Cursitor Doom <curd@notformail.com>: Apr 28 05:41PM On Thu, 27 Apr 2017 14:29:07 -0700, tabbypurr wrote:   > think of those figures? IME pre-war paper caps are highly suspect. I'd > rather establish what I can before subbing it, as the construction of > the whole thing is rather characterful.   I've a few boxes full of oil/paper metal-cased capacitors I could test for comparison purposes if needs be, Tabby, but I've added s.e.r in case some kind soul there will know the answer off the top of their heads first.

"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Apr 28 11:58AM -0700 > > think of those figures? IME pre-war paper caps are highly suspect. I'd > > rather establish what I can before subbing it, as the construction of > > the whole thing is rather characterful.   What, if anything, are the markings on the caps themselves?   You ought to be able to screen a modern film cap to within a very few percent of the OEM values, go high on the voltage parameters, and go from there.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

ohger1s@gmail.com: Apr 28 03:13PM -0700 Depends which war..

makolber@yahoo.com: Apr 28 02:09PM -0700 OP also consider in many tube applications the coupling cap has plate voltage on one side like 250V and feeds a 100k grid resistor on the other side.   It doesn't take much leakage to upset the grid voltage.   m

rickman <gnuarm@gmail.com>: Apr 28 01:44PM -0400 On 4/24/2017 6:00 PM, Foxs Mercantile wrote: >> no clue where the trash goes once it's removed from your >> property and have no clue where your food comes from either.   > You're an amazingly ignorant fuck.   Rather than just berate him you could try explaining that burning plastic and wood and especially wood with various paints and varnishes dumps incomplete combustion products into the air. Large scale burning of waste is done at high temps that completely burns to CO2 and H2O so there is much fewer toxins in the air and the ash. But heavy metals and other toxic compounds remain in the ash. With industrial processes the ash is treated like what it is, toxic waste.   --   Rick C

rickman <gnuarm@gmail.com>: Apr 28 01:55PM -0400 > radios and even some old test equipment and sometimes some electric > motors and other stuff like that.   > The idiot state government shut them down,   What makes you think the "government" shut them down? More likely they just weren't viable and went out of business.     > money by charging everyone $20 or more (per piece) to get rid of > electronic waste. A TV costs $20. A computer is (I think) the same, and > if that computer includes a monitor and printer, that's 3 items, or $60.   Sounds like a good reason to tear computers and such to pieces and dispose of the components. It takes maybe 5-10 minutes to disassemble a computer to circuit boards and small boxes and sheet metal. If there is no law against tossing pieces, then you are good to go. With RoHS there is very, very little harmful substances in electronics now.     > going to the landfill. What a damn waste. I used to love going to that > store, and shopping for cheap electronic stuff. And if something failed > within 2 weeks it could be returned and exchanged for something similar.   If the business model was viable you would see them all over the country. You don't so...     > at, but it employed 20 or 30 disabled people, who took that stuff apart, > tested the parts, and ran the store. It's been about 10 years since the > damn state ruined that business and got greedy.   I really would like to know how you can say the state "ruined" that business.     > plastics. But I do recycle all metals. On the rare occasion I have to > dispose of a CRT, I smash it in a box, and toss it in a dumpster at some > local business. I really do not know what else I can do.   Lol! You don't want to pay to dispose of your trash, so you illegally toss it in someone else's dumpster?     > a bag, I always say "NO". Then some of the idiot clerks put my stuff in > a bag right after I said "NO". That's when I tend to get a little rude > and say "I just told you NO BAG, remove it from the bag"....   It is *very* easy to control manufacturers. Don't buy their stuff. If we don't buy it they will stop making it. If you don't buy it you don't have to worry with the waste.     > private people, in the name of environment protection. If they were > doing any good, they would attack the producers of all the harmful > packaging and work to find safe alternatives.   Really? This makes sense to you?   --   Rick C

"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Apr 28 11:12AM -0700 On Friday, April 28, 2017 at 1:44:35 PM UTC-4, rickman wrote:   > there is much fewer toxins in the air and the ash. But heavy metals and > other toxic compounds remain in the ash. With industrial processes the > ash is treated like what it is, toxic waste.   Even the Catholic Church - not known for open policies and easy acceptance of alternate truths has a term for this sort of situation:   Invincible Ignorance.   Old School is a self-admitted thief & polluter, generally a fool whose roots are firmly set in the 50s, believes in the concept of "the good old days" (they never were) and is pretty much a lost cause. Not much short of an intellectual cattle-prod will get through his shell, and that only by repeated and assiduous application.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA   On some great and glorious day the plain folks of the land will reach their heart's desire at last, and the White House will be adorned by a downright moron.   H.L. Mencken

Foxs Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Apr 28 01:34PM -0500 On 4/28/2017 12:55 PM, rickman wrote: > Really? This makes sense to you?   And this is why I said: "You're an amazingly ignorant fuck."   Now you know.   -- Jeff-1.0 wa6fwi http://www.foxsmercantile.com   --- This email has been checked for viruses by AVG. http://www.avg.com

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Tomos Davies <cariadmenywod@gmail.com>: Apr 28 03:03PM Anyone have a good idea for making a smoke machine?   My car is 15 years old, and the buna is getting old and tired but they don't make a single kit of all the rubber parts which would be the easy way to avoid making my own smoke tools.   I keep getting a P0171/P0174 (bank 1 and 2 lean condition), which, for my engine, almost always means a crack in the complex hoses, tubes, and pipes, so I want to see if I can build my own smoke machine for about the cost of one diagnostic test by the pros.   A single professional smoke test is about $150 based on a dozen calls today (where most charge a flat diagnostic fee). And the dealer price for replacing all the hoses is estimated at far more than that one test.   I don't want to debate those two points here though (the pro diagnostic or replacing all the rubber) because my intent here is to ask for advice on building my own smoke machine for about one hundred dollars.   Just generating smoke is easy with a diesel glow plug shoved into a paint can with glycerin in it, but you have to generate dense smoke and you have to pump it under a few psi through the engine hoses.   Have you built your own smoke machine for around $100 or less? How did you do it?

ohger1s@gmail.com: Apr 28 08:30AM -0700 On Friday, April 28, 2017 at 11:03:44 AM UTC-4, Tomos Davies wrote: > to pump it under a few psi through the engine hoses.   > Have you built your own smoke machine for around $100 or less? > How did you do it?   There are a lot of videos on youtube that instructs in such a project. Smoke machines are extraordinarily handy in "smoking" out leaks.   My son's Jeep Grand Cherokee has about 300K miles on it and needed to pass emissions (which demands no CEL). My buddy has a pro machine and found seeping hoses, mostly around back near the tank. No smoking gun (yep) but a lot of tiny issues that an old high mileage vehicle will have.

ohger1s@gmail.com: Apr 28 08:35AM -0700 On Friday, April 28, 2017 at 11:03:44 AM UTC-4, Tomos Davies wrote:   > Have you built your own smoke machine for around $100 or less? > How did you do it?   There are a bunch of sellers on ebay providing a pretty good device for $80 including freight. For the time and parts, you can't beat this. They also include a pressure regulator to make sure you don't blast anything in the evap system.   http://www.ebay.com/itm/EVAP-Smoke-Machine-Diagnostic-Emissions-Vacuum-Leak-Detection-Tester-NEW-/301673812635?hash=item463d29129b:g:G5kAAOSw32lYvdZC

"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Apr 28 08:56AM -0700 The troll is back.   Please do not feed the troll.

"David B." <DavidB@nomail.afraid.invalid>: Apr 28 05:16PM +0100 On 28/04/2017 16:03, Tomos Davies wrote: > to pump it under a few psi through the engine hoses.   > Have you built your own smoke machine for around $100 or less? > How did you do it?     I often look on YouTube to find solutions!   Look here, Tomos! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BP2ffBSD2A0   -- The only people who make a difference are the people who believe they can.

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Apr 27 09:51AM -0700 On Thu, 27 Apr 2017 08:48:00 -0400, John Abnarthy <jabnar@excite.net> wrote:   >transfer power of around 12 VDC @ 1 amp between components. Will these >connectors work for that, or is there truly a "balun" that's maybe a >coil of wire that would burn up when used for a power purpose?   Fast answer as I run out the door. Yes, there's a balun inside. This is the BNC version, but the phono plug variety is the same. <http://www.cctvforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=29652> Scroll down for the wiring diagram.   I've used these by the bucket load for security camera installations. Plan on about 5% of what you buy being defective in some manner.   However, they are NOT made to handle DC. The transformer shorts the line at both ends. See wiring diagram above. Also, there's no such thing a speaker wire as I've seen speakers fed with almost every gauge of wire available.   Perhaps it would be helpful if you disclose what you're trying to accomplish and what you have to work with? There are similar device made to handle DC over (for example) CAT5 without shoving DC through a transformer (and causing the core to saturate). -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Apr 27 07:13PM -0700 John Abnarthy wrote:   > transfer power of around 12 VDC @ 1 amp between components. Will these > connectors work for that, or is there truly a "balun" that's maybe a > coil of wire that would burn up when used for a power purpose?   ** Not usable, as others have said already.   2-pin microphone plugs and sockets make excellent DC power connectors - low cost, polarised, short cct proof and very sturdy.   https://www.picclickimg.com/00/s/NzY4WDEwMjQ=/z/-OIAAOSwkx5XEFnd/$/502-Pin-Female-Microphone-Plug-Ham-Radio-CB-MicF2PIN-_57.jpg     ..... Phil

thekmanrocks@gmail.com: Apr 27 03:22PM -0700 Here is link to unit like ours, for sale: https://m.grainger.com/mobile/product/DAYTON-Cast-Iron-5W630   Issue: Dryer blower in mens room startsup only after multiple presses of button, or, strong slam of button or two.   What is causing it to not start after one press every time? There are no discussions of this issue with this blower on line, anywhere.

Sjouke Burry <burrynulnulfour@ppllaanneett.nnll>: Apr 28 12:42AM +0200 > one press every time? There are > no discussions of this issue with > this blower on line, anywhere.   Loose wire, or broken button, or damaged motorwinding, or........................

Clifford Heath <no.spam@please.net>: Apr 28 08:42AM +1000 > one press every time? There are > no discussions of this issue with > this blower on line, anywhere.   Burnt contacts in the switch, or loose and corroded wiring to it.   Failing armature, commutator or brushes in the motor.   Maybe other things. But that's where I'd look first.

thekmanrocks@gmail.com: Apr 27 04:08PM -0700 Thanks Jouke, Clifford:   These machines are so ubiquitous you'd think there would be tons of threads about them, and service manuals online.

oldschool@tubes.com: Apr 27 06:37PM -0400 On Fri, 28 Apr 2017 08:42:15 +1000, Clifford Heath <no.spam@please.net> wrote:     >Burnt contacts in the switch, or loose and corroded wiring to it.   >Failing armature, commutator or brushes in the motor.   >Maybe other things. But that's where I'd look first.   Or just replace it with a paper towel dispenser..... The towels work without drying your hands on your pants before using that worthless hand dryer.....

John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Apr 27 04:51PM -0700 On 2017/04/27 3:42 PM, Sjouke Burry wrote:   > Loose wire, or > broken button, or > damaged motorwinding, or........................   if none of the above then contact the manufacturers' help line!   If cheap knock-off, buy a better quality unit.   John :-#)#   -- (Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup) John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9 (604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) www.flippers.com "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."

Adrian Caspersz <email@here.invalid>: Apr 28 01:41AM +0100 > one press every time? There are > no discussions of this issue with > this blower on line, anywhere.   Looking at that image, it looks like a copy/clone/license of another brand called 'World Dryer'.   A youtube video shows a synchronous motor in the guts of the timer.   World Dryer Hand Dryer - Playing with the Mechanical Timer Switch (Radio Edit) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KQJbZiPl-tA   https://www.amazon.com/WORLD-DRYER-SWITCH-125F-K-W-CLIPS/dp/B011X7XESI   Could the motor be needing some lubrication to overcome starting inertia?   -- Adrian C

"Ron D." <ron.dozier@gmail.com>: Apr 27 01:39PM -0700 Lenny:   Contact me directly, if you want to see pics of an outdoor eve install HD-8200U that isn't going anywhere. The antenna's are larger these days.   Although I used an Eagle Aspen ROTR-100 and a bearing that both aren't available anymore, I'm really happy with the install.   I didn't quite finish the install in terms of the minor details. The Rotor has a North position and you have to decide if your going to magnetic or real north so, I'm not calibrated yet.   I put the rotor on top of a stainless split collar,so the rotor can be rotated after the fact   I used Black oxide collars for temporary aides to install the antenna. All U-bolts are stainless. The guys are non-metalic and made of Phillystran and the hardware (like turnbuckles) is mostly 316 Stainless   There are two types of gold annodizing and one is really bad.   Two things that I would do differently are: Use a fiberglass mast on the antenna side of things and powder coat a couple of the clamps on the rotor.   You MUST use anti-seize for the stainless bolts. I used a small piece of siameze RG-6 satellite wire from the antenna to inside. The Eagle Aspen controls the rotor via Coax. I chose not to put the antenna on the same coax.   The Aspen rotates like 460 degrees, so it prevents having to go all the way around at times.   There is also 99 presets. Enough for every channel.   So, that's what I have to do: Orient properly so TVfool agrees and set the presets to the channels. I want to do an an antenna combine with a single channel antenna and get a custom combiner made and installed.   An IR to RF repeater works fine. There are lots of ways to do multi IR including over Ethernet.   The "bad thing" about this rotor is that the displayed position is the "desired position", not the current position unless the motor is stopped.   But this particular unavailable rotor has an index so it will never get out of sync.

Foxs Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Apr 27 11:44AM -0500 On 4/27/2017 11:26 AM, analogdial wrote: > Yes they do and we are seeing the failures now. But it's been > a pretty good run for a paper dielectric cap. > Much better than the wax covered caps.   Who are you kidding? Paper caps were already failing after ten years of service. The Sprague "bumble bees" and Black Beauty capacitors were already known failures by the '60s.       -- Jeff-1.0 wa6fwi http://www.foxsmercantile.com   --- This email has been checked for viruses by AVG. http://www.avg.com

analogdial <analogdial@mail.com>: Apr 27 04:26PM Michael A. Terrell wrote:   >> or wound in perfectly dry conditions. That's nearly impossible. I have >> no doubt caps made under humid conditions failed more quickly than >> caps made during dry times.     Yes they do and we are seeing the failures now. But it's been a pretty good run for a paper dielectric cap. Much better than the wax covered caps.

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analogdial <analogdial@mail.com>: Apr 27 04:26PM Michael A. Terrell wrote:   >> or wound in perfectly dry conditions. That's nearly impossible. I have >> no doubt caps made under humid conditions failed more quickly than >> caps made during dry times.     Yes they do and we are seeing the failures now. But it's been a pretty good run for a paper dielectric cap. Much better than the wax covered caps.

Foxs Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Apr 27 11:44AM -0500 On 4/27/2017 11:26 AM, analogdial wrote: > Yes they do and we are seeing the failures now. But it's been > a pretty good run for a paper dielectric cap. > Much better than the wax covered caps.   Who are you kidding? Paper caps were already failing after ten years of service. The Sprague "bumble bees" and Black Beauty capacitors were already known failures by the '60s.       -- Jeff-1.0 wa6fwi http://www.foxsmercantile.com   --- This email has been checked for viruses by AVG. http://www.avg.com

etpm@whidbey.com: Apr 27 08:55AM -0700 >I have a transformer shorted from pri to sec for an industrial CNC machining center. It's in an Aartac type 921A power supply. The XFR is a Wagner + Grimm type EE554 made in Switzerland that I can't seem to locate. Anyone know a source or know of a trusted rewinder I can send this to?   If you know the xmfr specs you should be able to find one on ebay, I would think. CNC controls have been around a long time and all sorts of parts for them are on ebay. Eric

John Abnarthy <jabnar@excite.net>: Apr 27 08:48AM -0400 I see these all over Ebay:   http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2047675.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xphono+to+screw.TRS0&_nkw=phono+to+screw&_sacat=0   They might be perfect for a project I have, except I want to use them to transfer power of around 12 VDC @ 1 amp between components. Will these connectors work for that, or is there truly a "balun" that's maybe a coil of wire that would burn up when used for a power purpose?   Thank you, John

"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Apr 27 06:15AM -0700 On Thursday, April 27, 2017 at 8:48:04 AM UTC-4, John Abnarthy wrote: or is there truly a "balun" that's maybe a > coil of wire that would burn up when used for a power purpose?   Yes, and yes, it would.   Keep in mind that an RCA plug is a particularly wretched option for transferring power as it has exposed surfaces that may be shorted very easily. Yes, it may be only 12V, but still not a good idea.   I suggest either you use a standard barrel-type plug as with many wall-warts these days, or a phono-jack such as what was used in bygone days. These are much more difficult to short.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

Ralph Mowery <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: Apr 27 10:31AM -0400 In article <odsp40$pcg$1@dont-email.me>, jabnar@excite.net says... > coil of wire that would burn up when used for a power purpose?   > Thank you, > John   I did see some that looked to be the same with the word balun in it. I doubt any of those would have an actual balun type of transformer in them. At the price they show, I would give them a try, especially looking at the ones that do not hae the word balun in the description.   They probably use the word balun to describe going from a ballanced 2 wire system to one that is not ballanced.

"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Apr 27 08:26AM -0700 On Thursday, April 27, 2017 at 10:31:27 AM UTC-4, Ralph Mowery wrote:   > looking at the ones that do not hae the word balun in the description.   > They probably use the word balun to describe going from a ballanced 2 > wire system to one that is not balanced.   These *are* transformer-based devices and not designed for any level of current other than AV signal currents.   Apart from all that, using an RCA jack or plug for the stated purpose is just not a very good solution in the first place.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

captainvideo462009@gmail.com: Apr 27 07:12AM -0700 Customer wants a complete TV antenna with a rotor installed. I used to do a lot of these so that's no problem. However the catch is that depending on where they feel like hanging out he wants to control the rotor from two different levels of the house. I've never tried to do this before. Someone else suggested that I install a control wire to the two locations and have them move the rotor between the two. I know that channel Master makes a unit with an IR remote but I would need an RF based remote to go between floors. And I'm not a big fan of Channel Master anyway. Are there any RF based solutions for this? And is the equipment consumer or commercial grade?   Also back in the day I used to install Alliance rotors exclusively. They were a real quality product and I never got married to one of them. I know that Alliance has been gone for awhile now but is it true that the only ones that are now available are the crappy Chinese Philips rotors with the plastic gears that break in a windstorm? Is it even possible to buy a good quality rotor, (besides a really expensive Ham job) anymore? Lenny

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Apr 27 07:51AM -0700 On Thu, 27 Apr 2017 07:12:12 -0700 (PDT), captainvideo462009@gmail.com wrote:   >to do a lot of these so that's no problem. However the catch is that >depending on where they feel like hanging out he wants to control the >rotor from two different levels of the house.   Many rotators now have IR remote controls. For example: <https://www.channelmaster.com/TV_Antenna_Rotator_p/cm-9521a.htm> <https://www.google.com/search?tbm=isch&q=remote+control+antenna+rotator> Put and IR repeater between floors, buy a few spare remote controls, and you're done. <https://www.google.com/search?q=ir+repeater&tbm=isch> If you want quality, you'll probably end up with a ham radio type of rotator, for plenty more dollars.   -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Apr 27 05:43AM -0700 Any, repeat, any reasonable insurance company that has any, repeat, any experience with old houses will accept K&T wiring as a matter of course. Our house was built in 1890, and is by no means the oldest house in the neighborhood. Visible from our front door are houses from 1850 through 1963, with the preponderance built from about 1895 to about 1915. All but the 1960s house *will* have K&T wiring in them. The 1963 house will have ungrounded NM and thin-gauge grounded NM wire - no prize there either.   Our insurance company did send an inspector to check our wiring if only because we have 'full historical replacement' insurance. But we got a clean bill and no issues or additions to our premium caused by vintage wiring still in use (lighting circuits only). We do have a 200A service, and extensive new wiring, by the way. Not as if we are Luddites.   Any company with such an exclusion would eliminate 2/3 of Cheltenham Township from coverage. Our oldest occupied house is from 1689.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Apr 27 07:03AM -0700 > & tube wiring was removed > from my house back in the > 1980s.   Thanks, missed that.   On the other hand folks reading this may be looking for solutions in their situations so I try to frame my answers for a larger group than just the OP's requirements.   John

John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Apr 27 07:06AM -0700 > Any company with such an exclusion would eliminate 2/3 of Cheltenham Township from coverage. Our oldest occupied house is from 1689.   > Peter Wieck > Melrose Park, PA   Thanks for the info. Here in Canada it was getting harder to get insurance for K&T back in the early 00s, but I sold my house before it became a problem, and - as you say - there are probably enlightened insurance companies who will cover you once the house has an electrical inspection.   John

bruce2bowser@gmail.com: Apr 27 07:23AM -0700 Michael Black wrote: > posted to alt.home.repair   > Whatever you do, don't pull out the old wiring as a first step. > Use it to pull the new wiring into place.   It would be nice if all properties installed electrical conduit. But nearly all residential wiring, BX, MC, Romex (copper 12-3 or including a super-neutral 10 wire instead) that's been installed is attached to the walls won't pull anymore. You'd first have to get behind the walls and un-attach at each and every attach point in order to re-pull. Even from branch to panel.

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