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analogdial <analogdial@mail.com>: Apr 27 04:26PM Michael A. Terrell wrote:   >> or wound in perfectly dry conditions. That's nearly impossible. I have >> no doubt caps made under humid conditions failed more quickly than >> caps made during dry times.     Yes they do and we are seeing the failures now. But it's been a pretty good run for a paper dielectric cap. Much better than the wax covered caps.

Foxs Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Apr 27 11:44AM -0500 On 4/27/2017 11:26 AM, analogdial wrote: > Yes they do and we are seeing the failures now. But it's been > a pretty good run for a paper dielectric cap. > Much better than the wax covered caps.   Who are you kidding? Paper caps were already failing after ten years of service. The Sprague "bumble bees" and Black Beauty capacitors were already known failures by the '60s.       -- Jeff-1.0 wa6fwi http://www.foxsmercantile.com   --- This email has been checked for viruses by AVG. http://www.avg.com

etpm@whidbey.com: Apr 27 08:55AM -0700 >I have a transformer shorted from pri to sec for an industrial CNC machining center. It's in an Aartac type 921A power supply. The XFR is a Wagner + Grimm type EE554 made in Switzerland that I can't seem to locate. Anyone know a source or know of a trusted rewinder I can send this to?   If you know the xmfr specs you should be able to find one on ebay, I would think. CNC controls have been around a long time and all sorts of parts for them are on ebay. Eric

John Abnarthy <jabnar@excite.net>: Apr 27 08:48AM -0400 I see these all over Ebay:   http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2047675.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xphono+to+screw.TRS0&_nkw=phono+to+screw&_sacat=0   They might be perfect for a project I have, except I want to use them to transfer power of around 12 VDC @ 1 amp between components. Will these connectors work for that, or is there truly a "balun" that's maybe a coil of wire that would burn up when used for a power purpose?   Thank you, John

"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Apr 27 06:15AM -0700 On Thursday, April 27, 2017 at 8:48:04 AM UTC-4, John Abnarthy wrote: or is there truly a "balun" that's maybe a > coil of wire that would burn up when used for a power purpose?   Yes, and yes, it would.   Keep in mind that an RCA plug is a particularly wretched option for transferring power as it has exposed surfaces that may be shorted very easily. Yes, it may be only 12V, but still not a good idea.   I suggest either you use a standard barrel-type plug as with many wall-warts these days, or a phono-jack such as what was used in bygone days. These are much more difficult to short.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

Ralph Mowery <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: Apr 27 10:31AM -0400 In article <odsp40$pcg$1@dont-email.me>, jabnar@excite.net says... > coil of wire that would burn up when used for a power purpose?   > Thank you, > John   I did see some that looked to be the same with the word balun in it. I doubt any of those would have an actual balun type of transformer in them. At the price they show, I would give them a try, especially looking at the ones that do not hae the word balun in the description.   They probably use the word balun to describe going from a ballanced 2 wire system to one that is not ballanced.

"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Apr 27 08:26AM -0700 On Thursday, April 27, 2017 at 10:31:27 AM UTC-4, Ralph Mowery wrote:   > looking at the ones that do not hae the word balun in the description.   > They probably use the word balun to describe going from a ballanced 2 > wire system to one that is not balanced.   These *are* transformer-based devices and not designed for any level of current other than AV signal currents.   Apart from all that, using an RCA jack or plug for the stated purpose is just not a very good solution in the first place.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

captainvideo462009@gmail.com: Apr 27 07:12AM -0700 Customer wants a complete TV antenna with a rotor installed. I used to do a lot of these so that's no problem. However the catch is that depending on where they feel like hanging out he wants to control the rotor from two different levels of the house. I've never tried to do this before. Someone else suggested that I install a control wire to the two locations and have them move the rotor between the two. I know that channel Master makes a unit with an IR remote but I would need an RF based remote to go between floors. And I'm not a big fan of Channel Master anyway. Are there any RF based solutions for this? And is the equipment consumer or commercial grade?   Also back in the day I used to install Alliance rotors exclusively. They were a real quality product and I never got married to one of them. I know that Alliance has been gone for awhile now but is it true that the only ones that are now available are the crappy Chinese Philips rotors with the plastic gears that break in a windstorm? Is it even possible to buy a good quality rotor, (besides a really expensive Ham job) anymore? Lenny

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Apr 27 07:51AM -0700 On Thu, 27 Apr 2017 07:12:12 -0700 (PDT), captainvideo462009@gmail.com wrote:   >to do a lot of these so that's no problem. However the catch is that >depending on where they feel like hanging out he wants to control the >rotor from two different levels of the house.   Many rotators now have IR remote controls. For example: <https://www.channelmaster.com/TV_Antenna_Rotator_p/cm-9521a.htm> <https://www.google.com/search?tbm=isch&q=remote+control+antenna+rotator> Put and IR repeater between floors, buy a few spare remote controls, and you're done. <https://www.google.com/search?q=ir+repeater&tbm=isch> If you want quality, you'll probably end up with a ham radio type of rotator, for plenty more dollars.   -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Apr 27 05:43AM -0700 Any, repeat, any reasonable insurance company that has any, repeat, any experience with old houses will accept K&T wiring as a matter of course. Our house was built in 1890, and is by no means the oldest house in the neighborhood. Visible from our front door are houses from 1850 through 1963, with the preponderance built from about 1895 to about 1915. All but the 1960s house *will* have K&T wiring in them. The 1963 house will have ungrounded NM and thin-gauge grounded NM wire - no prize there either.   Our insurance company did send an inspector to check our wiring if only because we have 'full historical replacement' insurance. But we got a clean bill and no issues or additions to our premium caused by vintage wiring still in use (lighting circuits only). We do have a 200A service, and extensive new wiring, by the way. Not as if we are Luddites.   Any company with such an exclusion would eliminate 2/3 of Cheltenham Township from coverage. Our oldest occupied house is from 1689.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Apr 27 07:03AM -0700 > & tube wiring was removed > from my house back in the > 1980s.   Thanks, missed that.   On the other hand folks reading this may be looking for solutions in their situations so I try to frame my answers for a larger group than just the OP's requirements.   John

John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Apr 27 07:06AM -0700 > Any company with such an exclusion would eliminate 2/3 of Cheltenham Township from coverage. Our oldest occupied house is from 1689.   > Peter Wieck > Melrose Park, PA   Thanks for the info. Here in Canada it was getting harder to get insurance for K&T back in the early 00s, but I sold my house before it became a problem, and - as you say - there are probably enlightened insurance companies who will cover you once the house has an electrical inspection.   John

bruce2bowser@gmail.com: Apr 27 07:23AM -0700 Michael Black wrote: > posted to alt.home.repair   > Whatever you do, don't pull out the old wiring as a first step. > Use it to pull the new wiring into place.   It would be nice if all properties installed electrical conduit. But nearly all residential wiring, BX, MC, Romex (copper 12-3 or including a super-neutral 10 wire instead) that's been installed is attached to the walls won't pull anymore. You'd first have to get behind the walls and un-attach at each and every attach point in order to re-pull. Even from branch to panel.

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