Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 25 updates in 11 topics

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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 24 updates in 12 topics

captainvideo462009@gmail.com: Feb 27 11:37AM -0800

I have a pair of JBL model CF120 speakers. Yesterday while listening to the system a ground wire came loose and the next thing I realized the right woofer was out. These speakers are protected by a couple of TC 2.5A fuses. One of these fuses screws into a threaded holder, (and it was open) and the other clips into a two prong connector. Since I didn't have a small size TC fuse I swapped the good fuse into the threaded holder and I soldered, (piggy backed) a 2.5A AGC type with pigtails onto the open TC fuse and clipped it back into the socket.
 
So the TC fuse indeed protected the speaker, and I'm very grateful for that. I fixed the ground problem and until I can pick up the correct fuses this will work. However I was wondering if this TC type fuse is anything special? They are two different physical sizes but how does it compare electrically with an AGC type? In theory would AGC fuses be adequate protection for these speakers? I have boxes of them.
 
One interesting thing I thought I'd mention was that coming right out of each speaker output on the amplifier there is a 2 amp MDX fuse that never opened. I know that the MDX is some type of time delay. Don't even know why that was in there. I would appreciate any comments on this. Thanks, Lenny
Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Feb 27 06:26PM -0800


> I have a pair of JBL model CF120 speakers. Yesterday while listening to the system a ground wire came loose and the next thing I realized the right woofer was out. These speakers are protected by a couple of TC 2.5A fuses. One of these fuses screws into a threaded holder, (and it was open) and the other clips into a two prong connector. Since I didn't have a small size TC fuse I swapped the good fuse into the threaded holder and I soldered, (piggy backed) a 2.5A AGC type with pigtails onto the open TC fuse and clipped it back into the socket.
 
> So the TC fuse indeed protected the speaker, and I'm very grateful for that. I fixed the ground problem and until I can pick up the correct fuses this will work. However I was wondering if this TC type fuse is anything special? They are two different physical sizes but how does it compare electrically with an AGC type? In theory would AGC fuses be adequate protection for these speakers? I have boxes of them.
 
> One interesting thing I thought I'd mention was that coming right out of each speaker output on the amplifier there is a 2 amp MDX fuse that never opened. I know that the MDX is some type of time delay. Don't even know why that was in there. I would appreciate any comments on this. Thanks, Lenny
 
 
** JBL say the CF120 uses a 2.5 amp slo-blo fuse.
 
MDX are obsolete and replaced by MDL.
 
Lots of other options exist using T or TT fuses.
 
AGC is a fast type, same a F types and will bow too easily.
 
 
... Phil
John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Feb 28 07:56AM -0800

On 02/27/2015 6:26 PM, Phil Allison wrote:
 
> Lots of other options exist using T or TT fuses.
 
> AGC is a fast type, same a F types and will bow too easily.
 
> .... Phil
 
Here is a little page I wrote on fuses if anyone is interested:
 
https://www.flippers.com/fuses.html
 
Nothing on Polys though. Should update it I guess...
 
John :-#)#
 
--
(Please post followups or tech inquiries to the newsgroup)
John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9
(604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
www.flippers.com
"Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."
Bruce Esquibel <bje@ripco.com>: Feb 28 01:18PM


> I finally received a quote, $185.00 plus $20.00 shipping. Since this
> filter has to be custom made, the price is high.
 
If you have more time than money, probably your only alternative is to look
under rocks at surplus sites and see if anyone has a cable notch filter for
HRC channel 33 (channel T). Those have a cf of 276 mhz.
 
But from memory, most common single channel notch filters only went up to
channel J. The rest above that usually blocked an entire band.
 
-bruce
bje@ripco.com
mogulah@hotmail.com: Feb 28 07:45AM -0800

On Friday, February 20, 2015 at 8:26:01 AM UTC-5, Bruce Esquibel wrote:
 
> I used to mess around with cable notch filters back when the systems were
> all analog and I can't see where you came up with this idea to work on
> digital systems. It's just not the same thing.
 
In other words hardwire or air broadcasts visible on today's High Definition Cable/Dish TV are in digital broadcasts only. And that is in:
 
A.) High speed online
 
or
 
B.) Satellite Dish.
 
Even that may be wrong, because you can hook your phone up to TV or computer and get internet that way. Internet now gives you radio, TV, etc.
 
So only a software program (now called an app) can code, decode or recode these broadcasts. Their app vs yours. Only the providers' help desks can help you - and that's if they're allowed to.
gregz <zekor@comcast.net>: Feb 28 08:12AM


> Are they nuts? Grease between terminal elements?
 
> What grease--if any--is best, inside or outside the terminal connection?
 
> Thanks.
 
I used to put some kind of lube on. I guess I still do. I seem to recall
old radio books saying to use Vaseline. I always rock the clamp into the
posts. Seems like lube would help it get down deeper. I'm seeing new
recommendations of spraying the completed connection with fast drying
varnish or lacquer, instead of greasing the whole thing, assuming it's
clean.
 
Greg
dave <ricketzz@earthlink.net>: Feb 28 06:56AM -0800

I don't go anywhere near my batteries with baking soda. I don't let
mountains of oxide build up, either. Put grease on after assembling
connections. It is to keep air out. Flux brush and petroleum jelly.
Whatever.
 
On 02/26/2015 12:52 PM, m II wrote:
N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Feb 28 09:25AM

Next time I come across on of these, I'll make a x30 inspection of this
guard band to see if I can spot any whiskers growing across, maybe under
the lacquer. Just a mess of powder on both these boards now, ex lacquer,
down to pcb polyester. Tried out the old board and still dead.
captainvideo462009@gmail.com: Feb 27 01:07PM -0800

A topic that I started a thread on 3 1/2 years ago entitled "Toro self propelled lawnmower" just mysteriously re appeared on this groups page. How is that possible? Lenny
dplatt@coop.radagast.org (Dave Platt): Feb 27 02:52PM -0800

>A topic that I started a thread on 3 1/2 years ago entitled "Toro self
>propelled lawnmower" just mysteriously re appeared on this groups page.
>How is that possible? Lenny
 
I've seen it happen in a couple of ways.
 
Occasionally, a misconfigured news server at somebody's site will
"burp", and redistribute a bunch of articles that have been sitting in
a disk spool directory for several years (e.g. they boot a machine for
the first time in forever, or restore an old disk image from a
backup). Since the Article-IDs on these are so old that they have
"aged out" of almost every ID database, they aren't detected as being
duplicates, and so are redistribute across USENET as if they were new.
 
More frequently, somebody using a Web interface to a USENET archive
with a very long memory (i.e. Google Groups) will do a search for a
keyword of interest to them, see an article which seems relevant, and
post a followup... not noticing that the article to which they are
replying is five or ten years old. Since their followup is a new
article it's distributed normally, and appears to "resurrect" the
dormant discussion thread.
captainvideo462009@gmail.com: Feb 27 03:18PM -0800

> A topic that I started a thread on 3 1/2 years ago entitled "Toro self propelled lawnmower" just mysteriously re appeared on this groups page. How is that possible? Lenny
 
Interesting. Thanks, Lenny
John-Del <ohger1s@aol.com>: Feb 27 04:17PM -0800

> A topic that I started a thread on 3 1/2 years ago entitled "Toro self propelled lawnmower" just mysteriously re appeared on this groups page. How is that possible? Lenny
 
Four hours before you asked this question, someone had posted to your original mower thread bumping it back to the front page.
 
BTW, did you ever fix that mower?
captainvideo462009@gmail.com: Feb 27 05:59PM -0800

> A topic that I started a thread on 3 1/2 years ago entitled "Toro self propelled lawnmower" just mysteriously re appeared on this groups page. How is that possible? Lenny
 
I think that we got it going and then shortly afterwards my son blew it up. I seem to remember a bucket of mangled parts. It eventually became a science project. Lenny
Leif Neland <leif@neland.dk>: Feb 28 08:38AM +0100

> A topic that I started a thread on 3 1/2 years ago entitled "Toro self
> propelled lawnmower" just mysteriously re appeared on this groups page. How
> is that possible? Lenny
 
Some fool reading the newsgroup at google groups instead of using a
proper newsreader answered to the thread?
 
It is not unusual to see replies to 15 year old messages.
 
I wish google would add a "Enter age of message you are replying"
capcha, to avoid answers to people probably long gone from the
thread/group.
 
Leif
 
--
Je suis Charlie
"Shaun" <stereobuff07@gmail.com>: Feb 27 08:48PM -0600

"Jeff Liebermann" wrote in message
news:n4lueatb676subgdbf18bqdjuq66ugl3l8@4ax.com...
 
>of gold if you're not careful), cleaned with Q-tip and alcohol, and
>reinserted the cartridge.
 
>Problem solved.
 
Nice fix. Did you clean the printer contacts, ink cart, or both?
 
I usually clean the printer with ammonia or alcohol and the cartridge
with a pink pencil eraser. The problem is usually NOT splattered ink
on the contacts, but rather the grease used to lube the moving head
somehow migrating to the contacts. Looks are deceiving as the
contacts way look clean, but often are not. Brushing with a brush or
cleaning with a Q-tip doesn't seem to be sufficient. I have to take a
cloth rag, some solvent/cleaner, and rub to get the contacts clean.
 
--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
 
 
Using an eraser is a very bad idea because the binding material will be left
behind on the contacts. Try a stiff brush ( the ones for electronics work;
they are slightly larger than a tooth brush) with isopropyl alcohol, use the
70% stuff first, scrub it, then wash it off with pure alcohol. The let is
all dry.
 
Shaun
John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Feb 27 03:03PM -0800

On 02/26/2015 7:23 PM, Trevor Wilson wrote:
 
> Oh yeah, I told him to send the cables back for a refund.
 
> FWIW: The speakers sound fabulous.
 
Check the 'time to open' for your Polyswitch - some values are in the
seconds, plenty of time to blow a voice coil...surface mount ones are
pretty fast, but the leaded ones are not so fast.
 
John :-#)#
 
--
(Please post followups or tech inquiries to the newsgroup)
John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9
(604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
www.flippers.com
"Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."
Trevor Wilson <trevor@SPAMBLOCKrageaudio.com.au>: Feb 28 10:51AM +1100

On 28/02/2015 10:03 AM, John Robertson wrote:
> seconds, plenty of time to blow a voice coil...surface mount ones are
> pretty fast, but the leaded ones are not so fast.
 
> John :-#)#
 
**The particular model Polyswitch is one I've used for about three
decades with Infinity EMIT drivers. These are close to the same
impedance (resistance, actually), similar construction and similar
thermal properties. I don't expect any problems, apart from the fact
that the Polyswitch may be a little aggressive. I explained all this to
the client. He and I are happy with a conservative rating on the device.
 
--
Trevor Wilson
www.rageaudio.com.au
 
---
This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
http://www.avast.com
Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Feb 27 05:25PM -0800

John Robertson wrote:
 
 
> Check the 'time to open' for your Polyswitch
 
 
** There is no set time - it is a function of the degree of overcurrent.
 
> some values are in the
> seconds, plenty of time to blow a voice coil..
 
 
** To burn a voice coil in a few seconds implies an extreme event - not just playing music too loudly.
 
Small Polyswitches, with ratings of say 1 amp, trip very quickly if overloaded by a few times - as they would be with an oscillating amplifier.
 
 
.... Phil
cartermath18@gmail.com: Feb 27 04:37PM -0800

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bleachbot <bleachbot@httrack.com>: Feb 28 01:37AM +0100

digulla5@gmail.com: Feb 27 09:08AM -0800

Replace the coil and be done
Jerry
Allodoxaphobia <knock_yourself_out@example.net>: Feb 27 10:29PM


> Replace the coil and be done
> Jerry
 
HUH? I don't even own a Toro self propelled lawn mower!
 
Oh, I see... Another google grooper...
"Gareth Magennis" <gareth.magennis@ntlworld.com>: Feb 27 07:28PM

Phil Allison,
 
a while ago I believe you posted about a peculiar trait in (SMPS) JBL Eon
amps, whereby you can't run them up on a Variac safely.
Since then I've had 2 powered satellites and a powered sub where I noticed
the same thing.
 
I had the sub in today and replaced a blown bridge rectifier. I was fairly
sure the power amp was OK, no shorted devices, and a blown amp is unlikely
to take out the bridge.
 
I usually check these things with a Variac and 100W lightbulb in series, and
sure enough in all 3 cases it looked like excessive current draw at a fairly
low voltage, so stop things right there.
 
So I tried the repaired sub today on 240v with the lightbulb and it was
clear that the excessive current was going to continue.
However, on disconnection from the mains, both power supply rails held
indefinitely at around + and - 25v, indicating there was probably no short
in the power amp.
 
 
Much as I hated to do so, my only option was then to just connect the device
to the mains and turn it on, and it didn't blow up and is now back with the
customer.
 
 
I think this was something to do with a soft start relay not kicking in
unless the full supply voltage is used, but can't quite figure out how that
would work in practice.
 
Maybe you could remind us? I don't have schematics for these things.
 
 
 
 
Cheers,
 
 
Gareth.
dansabrservices@yahoo.com: Feb 27 11:25AM -0800

I think I have this on paper. Is there something specific you need?
 
Dan
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