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Michael Trew <mt999999@ymail.com>: Apr 29 01:04PM -0400 >> Saludos >> Miguel Giménez   > Bad speakers. LG made their own and they were crap. Even if you find some on ebay, they're just as old and likely to sound like garbage. Just add a cheap soundbar or powered computer speakers/sub. Even a crappy soundbar will sound a lot better than the LG did when it was new. The rest of the TV is well made.   I second that. I've never heard a slim flat screen TV with good sound... typically ranges from acceptable to very poor, and gets worse with time. That's one upside to my old console TV. The CRT isn't a great picture, but the speakers are nice. Even a cheap Walmart sound-bar will help you, or hook the audio-out into an external stereo if you have one laying around.

"Miguel Giménez" <me@privacy.net>: Apr 30 11:44AM +0200 >> Saludos >> Miguel Giménez   > Bad speakers. LG made their own and they were crap. Even if you find some on ebay, they're just as old and likely to sound like garbage. Just add a cheap soundbar or powered computer speakers/sub. Even a crappy soundbar will sound a lot better than the LG did when it was new. The rest of the TV is well made.   Thank you to all posters. Do LG sound bars have also crappy loudpseakers?   -- Saludos Miguel Giménez

"ohg...@gmail.com" <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Apr 30 07:28AM -0700 On Friday, April 30, 2021 at 5:44:59 AM UTC-4, Miguel Giménez wrote:   > -- > Saludos > Miguel Giménez   Well, yeah. But they're still far better than the ones the TVs have. Flat TVs have special needs, and the speakers are necessarily very thin and are all plastic, including the frames (generally). Even a cheap soundbar will have drivers that are physically much larger than those in the TV and not limited by the constraints of a thin TV cabinet, so they make much more sound with much less effort.

Stu jaxon <stankowalski02@gmail.com>: Apr 29 12:41PM -0700 Hi Group, can someone help please.? my craftsman digital multimeter 82344 not reading correctly, when i select the ohms or diode position to test components the display reads .844 on the ohms position and .556 on the diode position, it is stuck on those values, does not change. i did change the fuse, still the same.. it does read voltage and continuity.

"Peter W." <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Apr 30 04:41AM -0700 Can you get to the switch? Something may have fouled the Ohms Setting.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

Adrian Caspersz <email@here.invalid>: Apr 29 11:08PM +0100 On 29/04/2021 17:08, David Farber wrote: > scanner and then it has to reboot. I've tried another scanner and it > does the same thing. Is there an easy way to tighten up the pins in the > car's OBD2 port so that it stops cutting out?   It's old. Maybe the surface has got some contaminant.   Contact cleaner spray?   -- Adrian C

David Farber <farberbear.unspam@aol.com>: Apr 29 04:59PM -0700 On 4/29/2021 3:08 PM, Adrian Caspersz wrote: >> the car's OBD2 port so that it stops cutting out?   > It's old. Maybe the surface has got some contaminant.   > Contact cleaner spray?   I think I already tried the DexIt spray. It's been touchy for so long, I don't remember. I'll give it another shot.   Thanks for your reply.   -- David Farber Los Osos, CA

John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Apr 29 05:42PM -0700 On 2021/04/29 4:59 p.m., David Farber wrote:   > -- > David Farber > Los Osos, CA   Replacement OBD2 plugs/sockets are readily available, as are videos on youtube on how to replace it. It is probably not worth farting around with the plug unless you have the correct pin extraction and crimping tools.   Most connectors are good for 20 to 100 insertions after that they deteriorate gradually or rapidly...   John :-#)#

David Farber <farberbear.unspam@aol.com>: Apr 29 06:48PM -0700 On 4/29/2021 5:42 PM, John Robertson wrote:   > Most connectors are good for 20 to 100 insertions after that they > deteriorate gradually or rapidly...   > John :-#)#   So if I'm not extracting and crimping in new pins, how am I connecting the old wires to the new plug? It occurred to me that if the entire display is going blank, that would indicate that the 12V supply pin and/or the ground pin is cutting out. Correct? That shouldn't be too hard figure out. I do find it amazing that after 20-100 insertions, the plug's integrity would be compromised.   Thanks for your reply.   -- David Farber Los Osos, CA

John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Apr 29 11:35PM -0700 On 2021/04/29 6:48 p.m., David Farber wrote:   > -- > David Farber > Los Osos, CA   The spec sheets for crimp pins and connectors is eye opening...many Molex pin connectors are only rated for 25 connections - after that it is anyone's guess how long they will last. Amp and other connectors are much the same.   Heck even electrical outlets start to fail after 50 or so insertions - ever notice how a socket you use for the coffee pot feels looser and the plug seems warmer than it did when they were new?   John :-#)#

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David Farber <farberbear.unspam@aol.com>: Apr 29 09:08AM -0700 I have a 1997 Subaru Legacy. When I plug in my scanner to the OBD2 port, the slightest little jiggle in the cable will kill the power to the scanner and then it has to reboot. I've tried another scanner and it does the same thing. Is there an easy way to tighten up the pins in the car's OBD2 port so that it stops cutting out?   Thanks for your replies.   -- David Farber Los Osos, CA

"Miguel Giménez" <me@privacy.net>: Apr 29 01:19PM +0200 Good morning   I own a LG 42LW5500-ZE Smart TV about ten years old. It worked OK until about two weeks ago, when the sound quality started to degrade and has worsened from day to day. It sounds as a mix of saturation, crossover distortion, box resonation and loudspeaker cone broken. I will open the set this weekend, but before I would like to know if anybody has any experience with this.   The sound make me remember class AB discrete amplifiers, when the bias was not properly adjusted and the transition of one leg to the other was not smooth, but the TV amplifier looks a class D one (NTP-7400L).   TIA   -- Saludos Miguel Giménez

"Peter W." <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Apr 29 04:34AM -0700 I have no idea of the environment around the TV, but it could be as simple as something crawling into the speaker and causing havoc, or the speaker itself self-destructing. Something hatching out inside would account for the slow degradation. It is springtime. after all! Be careful when opening....   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

"ohg...@gmail.com" <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Apr 29 07:52AM -0700 On Thursday, April 29, 2021 at 7:19:13 AM UTC-4, Miguel Giménez wrote:   > -- > Saludos > Miguel Giménez   Bad speakers. LG made their own and they were crap. Even if you find some on ebay, they're just as old and likely to sound like garbage. Just add a cheap soundbar or powered computer speakers/sub. Even a crappy soundbar will sound a lot better than the LG did when it was new. The rest of the TV is well made.

amdx <amdx@knology.net>: Apr 28 03:56PM -0500 On 4/28/2021 4:05 AM, micky wrote: > I might be able to do that.   > Fortunately it wasn't needed this time. you probably saw that it just > needed to be reset.   OH, sorry, I must have glossed over that bit of information.   Well, anyway, I'm glad to have a searchable bit of information in case someone else has a problem.   It was an interesting project, sense there was nothing to lean on I had to draw the schematic and figure out how it worked.   Glad it was only the output section, if it was in the digital section, I would have passed on it.   I tried to make a permanent post about it, but I have searched and it doesn't pop up.                                            Mikek         -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus

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amdx <amdx@knology.net>: Apr 27 03:51PM -0500 On 4/26/2021 5:07 PM, Peter W. wrote:   > I have built five (5) of the Ramsey FM100Bs over time. They are not easy kits, and build-quality matters.   > Peter Wieck > Melrose Park, PA    I just reviewed some info, that I wrote back in 2016, the Ramsey unit I built was the FM25. Don't know about the FM100B.   Still looking for a page I wrote back when I fixed the CZH-05B hoping for more info.                                                      Mikek     -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus

micky <NONONOmisc07@fmguy.com>: Apr 28 05:05AM -0400 In alt.home.repair, on Mon, 26 Apr 2021 07:52:12 -0500, amdx >or may not be correct or complete.   >> https://www.dropbox.com/s/8sjv8u3xlsdsg3d/FM%20TRansmitter%20Schematic%20Updated%20schematic%20Latest.jpg?dl=0 >Here's a picture of the PCB.   Thanks a lot for this information.   I'm saving the files you posted, and the links, for next time.   >> https://www.dropbox.com/s/o1vuhbgjcyndo3b/FM%20Transmitter%20amp%20section..jpg?dl=0 >F1 is the output transistor, it went defective on my unit.  I changed it >and that fixed it. Check the voltages, at the output MosFet   I might be able to do that.   Fortunately it wasn't needed this time. you probably saw that it just needed to be reset. I don't know what happened to make it stop working at 0.5W output.   I don't even know when it happened because when the radio didn't get the signal, I would think, Well maybe the computer is not playing anything, and it took at least a week before I went from one room to the other to be sure. I don't remember any power failures, plus there had been short power failures before that didn't interfere with the xmitter working right.     >It is just poor design it is a 0.5 watt resistor dissipating 0.59 watts.   >But 10 years of often hours of daily use and it is still fine. So you >can ignore that.   LOL. Good to hear. Maybe mine will last 10+ years also. It works for a radio in every room and outside, and even in the car parked outside, if it's something I don't want to miss. .

micky <NONONOmisc07@fmguy.com>: Apr 28 05:10AM -0400 In alt.home.repair, on Tue, 27 Apr 2021 09:13:36 -0500, amdx   >I'm disappointed I haven't seen any response.   These things take time.   >Do you have any electronic repair experience?   Yes. I used to clean dirty tv tuners, when they were mechanical. I've replaced a flyback transformer, diodes, and a bunch of other things I forget.   >Do you know how to solder"   Since I was 9 years old, although all I had then was a wood-burning iron.   >Do you have a voltmeter?   At least 6 of them.

"Peter W." <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Apr 28 04:37AM -0700 The original Ramsey FM25 was a toy, and had a range of maybe 50 feet on a good day. Latter day versions became quite reliable. I am not familiar enough with them to know what improvements were made, other than that they were. Perhaps as an outcome of your conversation?   In any case, the 100B is an entirely different beast from the 25, or even the 30.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

Ed.Vance@f10.n1.z7915.fidonet.org (Ed Vance): Apr 27 11:49AM +1200 04-25-21 22:47 whit3rd wrote to Ed Vance about Re: Toshiba TV Howdy! Whit3rd,   wh> @MSGID: <60868F49.7906.elerepar@capitolcityonline.net> wh> On Saturday, April 24, 2021 at 8:15:17 PM UTC-7, Ed Vance wrote:   > I went through the Set Up procedure and had it scan the TV Channels > but the set still didn't let me see the Stations that I had been > able to watch before the Power failed that time.   wh> Two odd possibilities, are that the station might have gone off-the-air wh> during your scan, or that the TV has a restricted tuning range because wh> its varactor bias supply has been misadjusted.   Thanks for the Reply.   The Toshiba TV is in the front room, I got it in the Fall of 2019 and connected it to the outside TV Antenna and plugged it in. I've never done any adjusting to it outside of using its Menu some.   I use a Antenna Rotor on the outside Antenna.   The RG6/U Coax is plugged in to a Radio Shack TV Amplifier which has 4 output jacks.   The Toshiba TV is connected to one of the outputs.   Another output goes to the old Digital TV Convertor box to a VCR/DVR that doesn't have a TV tuner in it.   The other Two Jacks have Dummy Load Resistors plugged in them.   When I want to set the VCR to record a show, I will put the newer TV on Channel 4 to do that and when I'm done I can change the TV to some other channel if I wanted to watch some other show.   When the power had failed here the One or Two times before, I don't remember having to do anything special to get any Stations back on to the TV Set.   I have a old tubed MGA TV w/Digital Convertor in another room and can see those two Sub-Channels on it ghat are missing on the Toshiba, I use a Rabbit Ear and Bow-Tie antenna on that TV.   wh> More likely, your antenna isn't picking up all the stations, and could wh> use adjusting. If you still have a converter box, some of those have wh> signal strength indicators (and you can see if the converter scans and wh> finds the same stations, or a different subset. If a converter picks up wh> more stations than the TV on the same antenna... then the TV might need wh> an antenna booster amplifier.   I have the Yagi pointed towards that Stations transmitter site.   The Toshiba TV's Menu has a setting for a Signal Meter but the Channel I can't see doesn't come up even when I've tried to ADD it on the menu.   Lots of Head Scratching here, but I'm not Bald (yet). <G R I N>   73 (Best Regards) de Ed W9ODR dit dit     ... A diamond is just coal that has been under a lot of pressure!

whit3rd <whit3rd@gmail.com>: Apr 27 02:36PM -0700 On Tuesday, April 27, 2021 at 12:15:10 PM UTC-7, Ed Vance wrote:   > I have the Yagi pointed towards that Stations transmitter site.   > The Toshiba TV's Menu has a setting for a Signal Meter but the Channel > I can't see doesn't come up even when I've tried to ADD it on the menu.   Well, if there's an amplifier already in the loop... could it be that there's too much amplification, that an input stage is saturating (and losing gain)? If you have an attenuator (or even just some splitters, with terminated extra outputs) that can be patched in, that might be worth a trial. Between the antenna and input amplifier, ideally.   If the missing channels are at extremes (high end?) of the frequency range, it might still be the varactor bias supply (sometimes 30VDC) has shifted. That would affect tuning range.

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amdx <amdx@knology.net>: Apr 26 02:02PM -0500 On 4/26/2021 10:10 AM, Peter W. wrote:   > You get what you pay for.   > Peter Wieck > Melrose Park, PA   I have a funny story about that. I also had a FM100B I built, I didn't find it good, It seemed to drift a lot. I thought it was a piece of junk.   Anyway, years ago I had a booth at the Orlando Hamfest. I got into a discussion with a couple of guys about FM transmitters and told them I had the CZH-05B, guy A suggest that   it has a lot off frequency output. I countered with, well it works  a lot better than that piece of junk Ramsey FM100B. Guy B ask me if I realized that I was talking to Mr. Ramsey?   A little embarrassing, but I think he knew it was.                                                           Mikek     -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus

amdx <amdx@knology.net>: Apr 26 02:55PM -0500 On 4/26/2021 7:52 AM, amdx wrote:   > But 10 years of often hours of daily use and it is still fine. So you > can ignore that.   >                                    Hope that helps, Mikek    Also make sure the 9V regulator is working, I have a faint memory that I replaced that also, or is that because the soldering doesn't look factory. :-)                                                              Mikek     -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus

"Peter W." <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Apr 26 03:07PM -0700 Not defending the Ramsey - other than it works as I wish it to - but of all the similarly-priced items out there, it is the most user-friendly to my way of thinking. And against the cheap junk, much better. I hear good things about the Rangemaster - but I have never used one.   I have built five (5) of the Ramsey FM100Bs over time. They are not easy kits, and build-quality matters.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

amdx <amdx@knology.net>: Apr 27 09:13AM -0500 I'm disappointed I haven't seen any response.   Do you have any electronic repair experience? Do you know how to solder" Do you have a voltmeter?   Do you have any questions?                               Mikek       -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus

Tim R <timothy42b@aol.com>: Apr 27 05:29AM -0700 On Sunday, April 25, 2021 at 8:14:26 AM UTC-4, Edward H. wrote:   > This question sounds suspiciously like a homework problem.   It has that feel. But what kind of class has a homework problem with a practical application? Can't be an EE.

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amdx <amdx@knology.net>: Apr 26 07:52AM -0500 On 4/24/2021 6:02 PM, micky wrote:   > https://www.amazon.com/0-5-Fail-Safe-Long-Range-Transmitter/dp/B003FO4UHW/ref=sr_1_12_sspa > $120 Mine was cheaper, I guess because it had no RCA inputs, which I > have no use for.      I have the FM transmitter listed above. At one time it quit transmitting.   I could not find any info on the unit at that time.   Here's the schematic as I drew it on my unit manufactured in 2011. May or may not be correct or complete.   > https://www.dropbox.com/s/8sjv8u3xlsdsg3d/FM%20TRansmitter%20Schematic%20Updated%20schematic%20Latest.jpg?dl=0 Here's a picture of the PCB.   > https://www.dropbox.com/s/o1vuhbgjcyndo3b/FM%20Transmitter%20amp%20section..jpg?dl=0 F1 is the output transistor, it went defective on my unit.  I changed it and that fixed it. Check the voltages, at the output MosFet   If they don't match what I have on my schematic, it would be suspect. I used part # RDO1MUS1.   > https://www.mitsubishielectric.com/semiconductors/content/product/hf/sirfpowermosfet/siliconrfdiscrete/siliconrfdiscrete_lv4/rd01mus1.pdf You will also notice when it's working properly, that the 100 ohm resistor in the L/H power switching circuit runs hot, (I think in low power mode).   It is just poor design it is a 0.5 watt resistor dissipating 0.59 watts.   But 10 years of often hours of daily use and it is still fine. So you can ignore that.                                      Hope that helps, Mikek     -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus

amdx <amdx@knology.net>: Apr 26 07:57AM -0500 On 4/26/2021 7:52 AM, amdx wrote:   > But 10 years of often hours of daily use and it is still fine. So you > can ignore that.   >                                    Hope that helps, Mikek   BTW, I bought one in 2011 and paid $114, I bought another in 2017 and paid $69.   The first one I repaired and is still working, the second one is working fine.                                                  Mikek         -- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus

"Peter W." <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Apr 26 08:10AM -0700 First, I have a legacy Ramsey FM100B that I built from a kit almost 20 years ago. It has performed flawlessly throughout that time. Sadly, it is no longer made, although they do, occasionally, show up on eBay. Ramsey continues to support them.   Second, there is a LOT of Chinese Junque out there that is awfully cheap, and that is no better than it should be at the price. Those that I have come across have had nice extruded cases, and looked pretty simple. But have not performed anywhere as nicely as the Ramsey.   Third, I suspect that the unit you have that has failed has done so (in rank order) because of a connector failure (antenna, power or input), or because of a failed critical component - because, did I mention, they are cheap.   Fourth, you will notice that the Rangemaster is "FCC Certified". In the world of Part-15 FM transmitters, that does mean something.   You get what you pay for.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

whit3rd <whit3rd@gmail.com>: Apr 25 10:47PM -0700 On Saturday, April 24, 2021 at 8:15:17 PM UTC-7, Ed Vance wrote:   > I went through the Set Up procedure and had it scan the TV Channels > but the set still didn't let me see the Stations that I had been > able to watch before the Power failed that time.   Two odd possibilities, are that the station might have gone off-the-air during your scan, or that the TV has a restricted tuning range because its varactor bias supply has been misadjusted.   More likely, your antenna isn't picking up all the stations, and could use adjusting. If you still have a converter box, some of those have signal strength indicators (and you can see if the converter scans and finds the same stations, or a different subset. If a converter picks up more stations than the TV on the same antenna... then the TV might need an antenna booster amplifier.

Rheilly Phoull <rheilly@bigslong.com>: Apr 26 07:09AM +0800 On 25/04/2021 8:14 pm, Edward Hernandez wrote: >> the 3 groups in series or connecting 3 cells in series first to >> obtain 6 volts, 2amp per set and connecting the set in parallel?   > This question sounds suspiciously like a homework problem.   As do many :-(

Jason Bowers <jbbowersnospam@aol.com>: Apr 25 01:47PM -0400 The last time I did any serious HF radio adjustments I had a large and heavy 100 Mhz oscilloscope as well as an HP 1 Ghz spectrum analyzer. Due to finances and lack of interest, those items, along with several others, were sold about twenty years ago.   Recently, my interest has been rekindled somewhat and I am thinking about getting on 10 meters once the solar cycle begins to favor the upper HF more consistently. The problem is that my 10 meter radios have been in storage for about twenty years. Some were bought used and I have no idea how clean/ dirty transmitter/ receiver stages are not to mention transmitter output spectrum and modulation. I came across an HTX-100 recently, for example, where someone had removed the "do not adjust" sticker on the bandpass filter. Not good. So, being on a limited budget, I have been looking at these test equipment pieces:   https://www.amazon.com/Portable-TinySA-Spectrum-Frequency-Generator/dp/B08FB5XT7B?tag=worradfor-20   https://www.amazon.com/YEAPOOK-Handheld-Oscilloscope-Professional-Bandwidth/dp/B07XBL4BTL?tag=worradfor-20   I'm hoping that I would be able to check out and adjust spectrum output using the SA for anything up to 30 Mhz as well as checking out radio internals with the scope up to 30 Mhz (as well as viewing output SSB waveforms). So, I would appreciate any feedback on the above units. Thanks in advance.

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dplatt@coop.radagast.org (Dave Platt): Apr 23 12:21PM -0700 In article <39r38gdhf1kr84cetqq9p9e8a5fclrnd74@4ax.com>, >However minidisk uses magnetic recording and playback similar >to a floppy disk. The laser is only used when recording to heat >the disk and thus allow it to be altered by the magnetic write head.   All of the information I've found on Minidisc, says that it works the other way around.   During recording, the laser operates at high power, heating up the magneto-optic layer on the disc above its Curie point. The fluctuating magnetic field from the write head is "captured" by the MO layer as it cools back below the Curie point.   During playback, the laser is used (at low power) to sense the magnetic orientation of the MO layer by sensing changes in the polarization of the reflected laser beam (via the Faraday effect). When playing pre-recorded discs (made more like CDs) the laser is sensing reflectivity differences rather than polarization.   References: https://www.minidisc.org/minidisc_faq.html (item 9) as well as The Great Font Of Dubious Knowledge (a.k.a. Wikipedia).   For more detail, you can take a look at the original Minidisc patent: http://www.minidisc.org/patents/pdfs/US05244705.pdf - the basic descriptions of the recording and playback processes are at the bottom of column 9 and the first part of column 9, on pages 15 and 16.   The technical advantage of this dual approach is that the magnetic head doesn't have to "fly" at an extremely low height over the surface of the disc. In a hard drive, the gap between head and media is truly tiny... much smaller than the diameter of a human hair, and often smaller than a particle of tobacco smoke. It has to be this close, in order to be able to read and write very-tiny bits. That would be very hard to pull off successfuly for a removable medium like MD.   With MD, the write head can be larger, and further away from the surface. It produces a fairly broad area of magnetic field, but this affects the material only in the tiny area being heated by the laser (and cooling down immediately thereafter).

Lucifer <LuciferMorningstar@bigpond.com>: Apr 24 11:22AM +1000 On Fri, 23 Apr 2021 12:21:11 -0700, dplatt@coop.radagast.org (Dave Platt) wrote:   >surface. It produces a fairly broad area of magnetic field, but this >affects the material only in the tiny area being heated by the laser >(and cooling down immediately thereafter).   Thank you so much for that. I had the wrong idea of operation. However, looking at my minidisk recorder playing the magnetic is actually touching the disk and the head moves across the disk when I select a different track.   Now I know how minidisk works I can take a different approach to fixing mine.   Thank you again.

"ohg...@gmail.com" <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Apr 23 11:04AM -0700 On Friday, April 23, 2021 at 11:47:47 AM UTC-4, Peter W. wrote: > Don't get me started on Harbor Freight.... > Peter Wieck > Melrose Park, PA     *resisting* *temptation* *of* *getting* *Peter* *started* *on* *Harbor* *Freight* ....

Cydrome Leader <presence@MUNGEpanix.com>: Apr 23 07:31PM > Hi Group, any recommendations for a good DMM, preferably a Fluke. under a $100.. are the ones made in China reliable.??? what kind do you use.???   What is the end use?

John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Apr 23 12:41PM -0700 >> Peter Wieck >> Melrose Park, PA   > *resisting* *temptation* *of* *getting* *Peter* *started* *on* *Harbor* *Freight* ....   "resistance is futile"   ('42' and all that)   John ;-#)#

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Apr 23 05:07PM -0700 Ralph Mowery wrote: =================   > I have a Fluke t100 that is made as an electricians test meter. I have > put it across some 240 volt circuits while set on ohms and no effect to > the meter.   ** That is not unusual, it is easy to protect the ohms ranges of a DMM from voltages up to 240VAC. Along with being ( almost) drop proof, it is one of the great benefits of DMMs compared with analogue types.   The main safety features of a good multimeter are that the 4mm plugs are self shrounding and the battery compartment needs a tool to access. Goes a long at toward preventing accidental contact with dangerous voltages.   Meters with unfused *high current* ranges are a hazard around car batteries and the like, as the leads can smoke, burn or even explode. Not likely at all with mains power as gross overload trips breakers *instantly*.   .... Phil

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Stu jaxon <stankowalski02@gmail.com>: Apr 22 05:55PM -0700 Hi Group, any recommendations for a good DMM, preferably a Fluke. under a $100.. are the ones made in China reliable.??? what kind do you use.???

Rheilly Phoull <rheilly@bigslong.com>: Apr 23 01:42PM +0800 On 23/04/2021 8:55 am, Stu jaxon wrote: > Hi Group, any recommendations for a good DMM, preferably a Fluke. under a $100.. are the ones made in China reliable.??? what kind do you use.???   Does Fluke make any that sell below $100 ?

"Peter W." <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Apr 23 03:44AM -0700 > Does Fluke make any that sell below $100 ?   Used, perhaps.   And it would depend on the use and the need. My fluke, purchased new over 20 years ago, meets my needs nicely. But it is strictly for hobby purposes, and the occasional bit of troubleshooting around the house and various appliances and such. However, I very much appreciate that it is an accurate and reliable device, and made in the USA.   If one wishes to purchase a used DMM of any nature, please be sure that you are able to kick the tires prior to purchase. The better the scope, the more than might be wrong with it.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

Ralph Mowery <rmowery42@charter.net>: Apr 23 09:49AM -0400 In article <511c3a4d-8319-4ec2-86a0-6a0b8a1a0d6fn@googlegroups.com>, peterwieck33@gmail.com says...   > > Does Fluke make any that sell below $100 ?   > Used, perhaps.   > And it would depend on the use and the need. My fluke, purchased new over 20 years ago, meets my needs nicely. But it is strictly for hobby purposes, and the occasional bit of troubleshooting around the house and various appliances and such. However, I very much appreciate that it is an accurate and reliable device, and made in the USA.   > If one wishes to purchase a used DMM of any nature, please be sure that you are able to kick the tires prior to purchase. The better the scope, the more than might be wrong with it.   Fluke sells a few meters for under $ 100. I am not sure of the quality or how accurate they are. When buying a meter you need to know what features and how accurate you want them to be. If I don't care about much accuracery , I often just grab my old Simpson 260 analog meter.   I have 2 of the Fluke 87 meters that cost several hundred each. I also have a few of the 'free' Harbor Freight meters that are in various places around the house. They are good enough for some testing.   There does seem to be a few meters around that are good enough for the hobbist and home owner.

Andy Burns <usenet@andyburns.uk>: Apr 23 03:10PM +0100 Ralph Mowery wrote:   > Fluke sells a few meters for under $ 100. I am not sure of the quality > or how accurate they are.   They sell a few low-end models such as 12E, 17B, which I think are intended for sale only in China, but of course they turn up here in the UK on eBay etc, from just under to just over £100, e.g.   <https://ebay.co.uk/itm/Fluke/274104889982>   Personally I went for a Brymen 789.   Joe Smith on youtube does some pretty stressful tests on multimeters   <https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCsK99WXk9VhcghnAauTBsbg/videos>

Adrian Caspersz <email@here.invalid>: Apr 23 03:35PM +0100 On 23/04/2021 01:55, Stu jaxon wrote: > Hi Group, any recommendations for a good DMM, preferably a Fluke. under a $100.. are the ones made in China reliable.??? what kind do you use.???   CAT III Measurement category minimum, with a decent set of leads. A manufacturer that will stand behind their safety certification as well as calibration.   Country of manufacture doesn't matter.   Ye want something that is not going to vaporise in a deadly fireball when placed across mains.   I have a few cheap DMM meters, of worth less than $10. They go nowhere near 240V.   -- Adrian C

Aoli <Aoli@Aoli.com>: Apr 23 07:41AM -0700 Personally I like the free DMM give away with purchase at Harbor Freight. Plenty of features including a transistor tester built in and accurate enough. Unfortunately they have stopped the free stuff. The only problems with the HF DMM is that the internal 9V battery requires a screw driver to open the case and replace the battery. So I have to buy a screw driver at HF. LOL   P.S. I had a Fluke DMM and it totally died. And not that old either. Very disappointing.

Ralph Mowery <rmowery42@charter.net>: Apr 23 11:28AM -0400 In article <s5umbi$uu0$1@gioia.aioe.org>, Aoli@Aoli.com says...   > P.S. I had a Fluke DMM and it totally died. And not that old either. > Very disappointing.   You should have gotten the 'free' screwdriver set. I have several of them.   It all depends on what one wants to do with the meters. For low voltage testing that does not need to be too accurate the HF meters are ok. The ones I have are within 5 % or less than the Fluke meters I have . I just don't like to put them on any thing over about 50 volts where there is plenty of current avaliable like the house wiring. I have a couple of good Fluke meters for that.   There seems to be plenty of DMMs out for less than $ 100. See if you can find one that is CAT rated. That is meters certified to be safe is you have them set for ohms or amps and put them across a voltage source. The meter may never work again,but an internal fuse will blow and make it safe . Some of the cheap meters may not do this but arc over internally and the leads melt in your hands and may put you across the voltage. Seeing some of the Fluke safety videos will make you think about that.   I have a Fluke t100 that is made as an electricians test meter. I have put it across some 240 volt circuits while set on ohms and no effect to the meter. Did that at work a lot on purpose for some tests.

Ralph Mowery <rmowery42@charter.net>: Apr 23 11:33AM -0400 In article <ieg49fF7ppnU1@mid.individual.net>, email@here.invalid says... > when placed across mains.   > I have a few cheap DMM meters, of worth less than $10. They go nowhere > near 240V.   I agree. I have several of the 'free' HF meters. They are fine for what they are. I don't put them across anything above 50 volts that is capable of supplying more than an amp.   For serious work I have a couple of the Fluke 87 meters and the good old trusty Simpson 260 and Amprobe analog meters.

"Peter W." <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Apr 23 08:47AM -0700 Don't get me started on Harbor Freight....   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Apr 23 09:37AM -0700 On 2021/04/23 7:10 a.m., Andy Burns wrote:   > Personally I went for a Brymen 789.   > Joe Smith on youtube does some pretty stressful tests on multimeters   > <https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCsK99WXk9VhcghnAauTBsbg/videos>   He has a great meter test box, nice work!   John :-#)#

Reinhard Zwirner <reinhard.zwirner@t-online.de>: Apr 16 07:09PM +0200 rbowman schrieb: >> They look like they are connected to transisors, but they have the 3 >> vertical lines, one of which in each set has a left-point arrow.   > https://byjus.com/physics/mosfet/   Umm.   <https://www.bilder-hochladen.net/files/big/12b4-yj-6269.jpg>   Somehow worried   Reinhard

mjmcl <mcl182@ipns.com>: Apr 22 07:50PM -0700 On 4/20/21 4:05 PM, bob prohaska wrote:   > handy is xoscope, available via apt on RasPiOS. It's installed, but > the man page gives no hint what sort of sound device, or general purpose > A/D converters, are supported.     visual analyser works on FreeBSD with WINE, but you're limited to soundcard/chip bandwidth and line level input voltages.

bob prohaska <bp@www.zefox.net>: Apr 23 02:51AM > From what I understand, most people who have tried both, prefer a > standalone scope over a PC based one.   Understood completely, if this were for routine use I'd agree. But, mine is a once-in-a-blue-moon use case. > money. The Rigol DS1054Z seems to be available for around $450. That > is a four-channel, 50 MHz scope. It can easily be hacked for 100 MHz > bandwidth.   That's better than I need by a wide margin, but it's tempting 8-)   Thanks for writing,   bob prohaska

John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Apr 22 10:39AM -0700 On 2021/04/21 9:04 p.m., bitrex wrote: >> The problem is the system doesn't work well...   >> John ;-#)#   > What's a "Wall-o-Matic"?   Commonly called "Booth Boxes" or "Wall-Boxes" these used to be (and still are in a few places) jukebox remote controls that displayed a list of the songs available and a coin acceptor and push button system to make your remote selection on the in-house jukebox.   Not unlike a dial phone in many ways - used a pair of steppers - one for the letter (up to twenty) and a second for the number (up to ten) to make a selection of one of up to two hundred songs.   Some photos here:   https://www.smbaker.com/converting-a-seeburg-3wa-wallbox-into-a-remote-for-a-modern-music-player   John :-#)#   -- (Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup) John's Jukes Ltd. MOVED to #7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3 (604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) www.flippers.com "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."

John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Apr 22 10:41AM -0700 >> Relevant schematic is on page 5128 (pg 16 or the PDF).   > Yikes. The tube pins all go to off-page connectors, so it's not easy.   The off page connections are mostly switches. I'll find the wiring layout diagram and post it a bit later...   John :-#)#   -- (Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup) John's Jukes Ltd. MOVED to #7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3 (604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) www.flippers.com "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."

John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Apr 22 10:43AM -0700 >> https://www.flippers.com/pdfs/Seeburg_V200_Pg_5113-5143_B&W.pdf   >> Relevant schematic is on page 5128 (pg 16 or the PDF).   > Yikes. The tube pins all go to off-page connectors, so it's not easy.   From the service manual - the sequence of operations guide:   https://www.flippers.com/pdfs/Seeburg_V200_Pg_139-154_Colour.pdf   John :-#)#     -- (Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup) John's Jukes Ltd. MOVED to #7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3 (604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) www.flippers.com "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."

John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Apr 22 10:48AM -0700 On 2021/04/22 6:35 a.m., bitrex wrote:   > So I still think the reason they end up malfunctioning in service is > that the gas is escaping or being absorbed by the glass and reducing the > operating temperature of the cathode may extend their life.   Not unlike He-Ne laser tubes out-gassing He through the glass and failing back when LaserDisk players were somewhat popular (80s).   John :-#)# -- (Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup) John's Jukes Ltd. MOVED to #7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3 (604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) www.flippers.com "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."

John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Apr 22 10:53AM -0700 On 2021/04/22 2:04 a.m., piglet wrote:   > Possible fets could be BSS126 or LND150 and SCR with sensitive gates > X0402NF or BT149G.   > piglet   Yes, that might work - at least as a starting point. Need to poke at the values a bit and keep the patent design in mind too - I suspect the sensitive gate SCR didn't exist then.   Thanks!   John :-#)#   -- (Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup) John's Jukes Ltd. MOVED to #7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3 (604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) www.flippers.com "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."

bitrex <user@example.net>: Apr 22 02:25PM -0400 On 4/22/2021 1:53 PM, John Robertson wrote: > sensitive gate SCR didn't exist then.   > Thanks!   > John :-#)#   Could use an optocoupler to level-shift the trigger pulse and a PIC...that's not much fun either, though...

Bill Martin <wwm@wwmartin.net>: Apr 22 03:52PM -0700 On 4/21/21 11:43 PM, bitrex wrote:   >> Another says it's xenon:   >> <http://phylab.fudan.edu.cn/lib/exe/fetch.php?media=exp:ajp000701.pdf>   > I think it must be xenon, the first one is just wrong   Nah, they are just xenon-phobic :-)

DecadentLinuxUserNumeroUno@decadence.org: Apr 23 01:09AM > Sounds like you have something to prove.   Your pschologist attitude is not matched by your education. Stay out of the personal assessment opinion crap.

bitrex <user@example.net>: Apr 22 09:35PM -0400 >> Sounds like you have something to prove.   > Your pschologist attitude is not matched by your education. Stay out > of the personal assessment opinion crap.   Have you given your inner child a hug today, though

Lucifer <LuciferMorningstar@bigpond.com>: Apr 23 07:47AM +1000 On Tue, 20 Apr 2021 18:09:04 -0700, dplatt@coop.radagast.org (Dave Platt) wrote:     >At a guess, I'd suspect that it might be any of the typical faults >which can develop in any laser-optical-based disc recording and >playback system:   Thank you for your reply. However minidisk uses magnetic recording and playback similar to a floppy disk. The laser is only used when recording to heat the disk and thus allow it to be altered by the magnetic write head.     >Power-supply problems e.g. deteriorating filter capacitors, loose >cables, intermittent contacts, etc. can also be a problem as these >devices age.   I would say those things are OK as it plays a disk I recorded but not disks recorded on another machine. I'm thinking it's out of alignment.   >None of the above is at all specific to your recorder model. If >you're serious about trying to fix it, I'd suggest getting the >model-specific service manual   That's a good idea.

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