Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 6 updates in 5 topics

Wayne Chirnside <barfnarts@faux.com>: Jan 31 02:53PM

On Fri, 30 Jan 2015 05:18:53 +0000, John Doe wrote:
 
 
> Yep, same strategy here. Sometimes I checked their feedback for that
> particular item. Not necessarily easy when they have tens of thousands,
> though.
 
 
For button cells USA shipped I got Hilflower, Hillflower?
Fast, worked, cheap.
John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Jan 30 11:27AM -0800

On 01/30/2015 5:41 AM, Phil Allison wrote:
 
> ..... Phil
 
On this side of the pond we have Cooper/BUSS fuses which say "Made in
the USA" in my stock, just got some from Digi-Key.
 
I think you are in the UK, right Phil?
 
John :-#)#
 
--
(Please post followups or tech inquiries to the newsgroup)
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(604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
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Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Jan 30 10:54PM -0800

John Robertson wrote:
 
 
> On this side of the pond we have Cooper/BUSS fuses which say "Made in
> the USA" in my stock, just got some from Digi-Key.
 
> I think you are in the UK, right Phil?
 
 
** No, Sydney Australia.
 
Fuses come from either Asia or Europe via Farnell.
 
 
 
... Phil
Cydrome Leader <presence@MUNGEpanix.com>: Jan 30 11:54PM

> I have a fairly old Kepco Model 100-0.2M power supply with no output. Before I tear into the unit, I was hoping someone here would have a schematic, or know where to get one for free. The supply is too old to spend much $ on repairing, but I have a huge parts supply and hope to get it running again without spending much money.
 
kepco seem to be some real assholes. You can buy your manual for only $110
 
http://www.kepcopower.com/servicemanuals.htm
Theo Markettos <theom+news@chiark.greenend.org.uk>: Jan 30 08:59PM

It seems to be the thing these days to build gadgets with glue rather than
screws, so that all the bits like LCD, digitiser, battery and case are stuck
together. This has caused much bewailing by the likes of iFixit, because
things aren't fixable by a screwdriver any more.
 
I wonder whether the problem is that we need new tools and new approaches,
rather than just giving up. For example, heat gun techniques seem to me a
bad idea, because the heat goes away easily. It you're trying to lever the
screen off with a few dozen guitar picks, that also places stress on the
screen.
 
So I wonder what's a sensible heating method? For example, there's the
'hot pillow' approach:
https://www.ifixit.com/Store/Tools/iOpener/IF145-198
Heat up pillow in microwave, apply to surface. For some reason this is a
small pillow - I would have expected a better one would be the size of a
dinner plate or larger, enough to take a whole tablet in one go. Or would
that induce heating stresses in the screen?
 
Another approach is the temperature controlled table:
http://www.lcdglue.com/product-p/01-0010.htm
possibly with vacuum (either integral, or simply invert then use a sucker).
 
I wonder what kinds of household appliances could be abused to do the job?
For instance, there's a nice use of toaster ovens as PCB reflow stations -
just add a PID temperature controller.
 
Anyone done this and have any tips?
 
Thanks
Theo
jurb6006@gmail.com: Jan 30 12:26PM -0800

Well, I have been through all the suggesyions and still come up blank. (at least on the Crate, the Peavey might match up to something, in fact I want another look at it because I didn't pull the bad ones out yet)
 
I have also checked CE Distribution and they supposedly specialize in this sort of thing. No got.
 
One is a Crate PCM6+. It only needs one that somehow developed a leakage path between phantom poer and one of the signal pis making an awful racket. It's seems to be extral long, the board sits behing the other board. Did they perhaps have them special made ?
 
The other is a Peavey XR-684. I think those are elcheapo. it came in with two broen and just in testing without manhandling it I broke another one. The center plastic pulls off and because of the pressure, the contacts make it impossible to just stick back on there. If I did that it would just fail agian anyway, plus I don't have the other two. I think it is only about a 12 channel or so, so if I ever find these things I will probably replace them all. Once I got the thing apart, why not save future customer trouble ? They're all the same age and I'm sure the plastic is brittle compared to new.
 
What you figure my chances are of dealing with these manufacturers ? Does anyone call Peavey or Crate and say "Send me bla bla bla and here's my credit card number" ?
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 14 updates in 6 topics

santaclausnorth90@gmail.com: Jan 30 08:37AM -0800

On Friday, January 14, 2011 at 10:28:36 AM UTC-7, Wild_Bill wrote:
> Cheers,
> WB
> .............
 
Wild Bill - I would like to find this cable also, so please post if you find one. The user manual for the GV-S50 says this port is "for future use."
"Arfa Daily" <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com>: Jan 30 09:28AM

"Phil Allison" <pallison49@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:3a6805ae-ec07-4e16-82dc-8dfdad6a4c84@googlegroups.com...
 
> All the letter codes on common fuses are for German words.
 
> F = " Flink " for quickly or rapid.
 
> http://www.thefusewarehouse.com/pages/learn_fuse_markings.php
 
Nah. They've got that wrong Phil. "FF" is Fuckin' Fast "F" is just Fast
"M" is Meedjum" "T" is Time and "TT" is Tea Time which I believe means
you've got enough time to make a cup of tea while it decides whether to blow
... :-)
 
Arfa
Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Jan 30 04:09AM -0800

Arfa Daily wrote:
 
> "M" is Meedjum" "T" is Time and "TT" is Tea Time which I believe means
> you've got enough time to make a cup of tea while it decides whether to blow
> ... :-)
 
** Works for me....
 
 
 
.... Phil
Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Jan 30 05:41AM -0800

John Robertson wrote:
 
 
 
> > http://www.thefusewarehouse.com/pages/learn_fuse_markings.php
 
> Isn't that chart just for the European fuses?
 
 
** Whooah - hold on a mo there.
 
Q. Who uses European standard fuses ?
 
A. Everyone does.
 
Common appliance fuses come in just two sizes: 20x5mm and 6.3x30mm or 3AG.

European and Asian makers produce both sizes and dominate the market because of lower cost. In 40 years of buying and using such fuses, I cannot remember seeing a pack labelled "Made in USA"
 
 
 
.... Phil
RAJESH KUMAR <rajeshkumar18007@gmail.com>: Jan 30 12:56AM -0800

hiiii frnd im new in this group im need schematic diagram 10203-1 b560 laptop
dansabrservices@yahoo.com: Jan 29 09:16AM -0800

What you are looking for is a push-on/push-off switch NOT a momentary switch. A momentary switch will only be "ON" while depressed.
 
Dan
mike <ham789@netzero.net>: Jan 29 09:29AM -0800

> What you are looking for is a push-on/push-off switch NOT a momentary switch. A momentary switch will only be "ON" while depressed.
 
> Dan
 
One of us is confused.
I say the referenced switch is what he says he needs.
Klay Anderson <klay@klay.com>: Jan 29 10:00AM -0800

On Thursday, January 29, 2015 at 9:42:55 AM UTC-7, humbled valiant wrote:
 
> I am running into "momentary pushbutton" switches such as this candidate:
 
> http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/pb-211/red-jumbo-pushbutton-switch/1.html
 
> Do switches like this meet my qualifications?
 
Yes. Those are called "arcade switches" and as long as you use the C and N.O. terminals it will stay closed as long as held down.
 
Yours truly,
Mr. Klay Anderson, D.A.,Q.B.E.
Tim R <timothy42b@aol.com>: Jan 29 11:14AM -0800

On Thursday, January 29, 2015 at 12:29:03 PM UTC-5, mike wrote:
 
> > Dan
 
> One of us is confused.
> I say the referenced switch is what he says he needs.
 
The one he referenced is single pole double throw, snap action. I would have interpreted that to act like a change of state relay.
Tim R <timothy42b@aol.com>: Jan 29 01:20PM -0800

On Thursday, January 29, 2015 at 2:14:51 PM UTC-5, Tim R wrote:
 
> > One of us is confused.
> > I say the referenced switch is what he says he needs.
 
> The one he referenced is single pole double throw, snap action. I would have interpreted that to act like a change of state relay.
 
Oh wait, I missed the word momentary in the product description. Never mind.
Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Jan 29 10:42PM -0800

humbled valiant wrote:
 
 
> I am running into "momentary pushbutton" switches such as this candidate:
 
> http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/pb-211/red-jumbo-pushbutton-switch/1.html
 
> Do switches like this meet my qualifications?
 
** Absolutely.
 
The linked example is "microswitch" with changeover contacts and a rather chunky actuator button.
 
Should be able to handle a fair amount of current and voltage too - long as it is switching AC.
 
 
.... Phil
mroberds@att.net: Jan 30 04:55AM

Crossposted to sci.electronics.repair; it gets more traffic.
 
> know how products can be knockoffs nowadays when it's all made in
> China anyway... But obviously many of them are just substandard
> batteries.
 
Sometimes if you scroll waaaay down and read the fine print, it will say
"compatible replacement", or some other words that mean that you're not
actually getting what is in the big picture at the top of the page.
 
> So what's your favorite online retailer for batteries? Or your
> favorite battery seller on eBay or Amazon?
 
Depends on what kind of battery it is. I am in the US so I look at US
suppliers.
 
For gel cells - the things that go in most every "computer" UPS under
1000 VA or so, house alarm systems, etc - I order from Digi-Key or
Mouser, either Panasonic or Power-Sonic brand. I've been unhappy with
every other brand of these that I've tried.
 
For NiMH AAs, the only online shopping I've done is a pack of Eneloops
from Amazon. As far as I can tell, I got genuine cells, and their
performance has been as expected. Make sure it says "sold by and ships
from Amazon.com" in the listing; I think there's a check box for that,
which you can use when searching.
 
For a Li-ion battery for an older cell phone, I sighed deeply and bought
from the seller with the most sales and best feedback who stocked that
particular battery on eBay. I'm pretty sure I got a genuine battery,
but it had an old date code; it had probably been sitting on the shelf
for a couple of years. It took a few charge cycles to wake back up, but
it is doing as well as can be expected.
 
I don't think I've ever bought alkaline / carbon-zinc primary batteries
online. I've checked prices from online-only sellers, but in the small
quantities of AAA, AA, C, D that I use, it's usually just about the same
as going to the local discount store. For coin or button batteries, the
local prices seem to be vastly inflated vs. online, but then the minimum
shipping charge cuts in. If I happened to be ordering something else
from Digi-Key or Mouser, then it might pay to order a coin cell from
them.
 
For NiCd power tool batteries, I had my existing packs rebuilt by a
local Batteries Plus store. I don't know what kind of cells they used,
but they work a lot better than the worn-out original ones, and the
rebuild price of about $35 was better than the new-pack price of $50+.
 
The last time I was involved with buying lead-acid traction batteries
several years ago, I think the place where I worked got them directly
from the manufacturer (Enersys, nee Hawker, nee Gates). That seemed to
work OK.
 
Standard disclaimers apply: I don't get money or other consideration
from any companies mentioned.
 
Matt Roberds
John Doe <always.look@message.header>: Jan 30 05:18AM

> say "compatible replacement", or some other words that mean that
> you're not actually getting what is in the big picture at the top of
> the page.
 
Talking about eBay. Yep, definitely something to look out for.
 
>> favorite battery seller on eBay or Amazon?
 
> Depends on what kind of battery it is. I am in the US so I look at US
> suppliers.
 
Yeah, I have been hitting the "USA" button when sorting eBay results.
Mainly because I don't want the order to take forever to get here. Partly
for fun, I recently ordered 5 (200 V 10 A) diodes shipped from China for
$1.50.
 
 
> For a Li-ion battery for an older cell phone, I sighed deeply and
> bought from the seller with the most sales and best feedback who
> stocked that particular battery on eBay.
 
Yep, same strategy here. Sometimes I checked their feedback for that
particular item. Not necessarily easy when they have tens of thousands,
though.
"humbled valiant" <nobody@nowhere.com>: Jan 29 03:24PM -0500

"bitrex" <bitrex@de.lete.earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:87ednYXsIqG5Z1vJnZ2dnUU7-K-dnZ2d@earthlink.com...
 
> --
 
> ----Android NewsGroup Reader----
> http://usenet.sinaapp.com/
 
you can't complain now. All of the pages with adult content are annotated.
 
http://www.stonetabernacle.com
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 10 updates in 3 topics

"humbled valiant" <nobody@nowhere.com>: Jan 29 11:42AM -0500

I am looking for a push button switch that turns on when it is pressed down,
stays on while it stays depressed and turns off when it is released.
 
I am running into "momentary pushbutton" switches such as this candidate:
 
http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/pb-211/red-jumbo-pushbutton-switch/1.html
 
Do switches like this meet my qualifications?
dave@daveryder.com: Jan 28 11:40PM -0800

On Thursday, October 17, 2013 at 8:29:15 PM UTC-5, Phil Allison wrote:
 
> ** Got any idea what the letter "T" stands for ?
 
> Hint - it ain't "time".
 
> ... Phil
 
Hey, I know there is some joking around going on here (and some animosity, too apparently) but the "T" DOES actually stand for: "T = Time. Time Delay or Slow Blow.(Typically open between 100 and 300 ms @ ten times the rated current)"
 
Correct? Or am I missing something? BTW that comes from this google cached page:
 
http://webcache.googleusercontent.com/search?q=cache:E3algcJXUCMJ:highfields-arc.co.uk/constructors/info/fusecolours.htm+&cd=2&hl=en&ct=clnk&gl=us
 
I'm just trying to learn, I've got to replace that same damn fuse, and I'm frankly having a bitch of a time figuring out what's causing it to blow (it's the psu from a 32' flatscreen tv if that matters) Replaced a bunch of bad caps, and it powers up for about 3 seconds with a nice picture, and then bam blown fuse. Does rogaine help for hair regrowth that you pulled out yourself lol?
dave@daveryder.com: Jan 28 11:46PM -0800


> Correct? Or am I missing something? BTW that comes from this google cached page:
 
> http://webcache.googleusercontent.com/search?q=cache:E3algcJXUCMJ:highfields-arc.co.uk/constructors/info/fusecolours.htm+&cd=2&hl=en&ct=clnk&gl=us
 
> I'm just trying to learn, I've got to replace that same damn fuse, and I'm frankly having a bitch of a time figuring out what's causing it to blow (it's the psu from a 32' flatscreen tv if that matters) Replaced a bunch of bad caps, and it powers up for about 3 seconds with a nice picture, and then bam blown fuse. Does rogaine help for hair regrowth that you pulled out yourself lol?
 
Oh and another thing that has me curious is the fuse was wrapped in rubber shrinkwrap, even though it wasn't anywhere near anything metallic that could short it out, any ideas why?
Mike <news@mjcoon.plus.com>: Jan 29 02:43AM -0600

On Wed, 28 Jan 2015 23:46:26 -0800, dave wrote:

> Oh and another thing that has me curious is the fuse was wrapped in
> rubber shrinkwrap, even though it wasn't anywhere near anything metallic
> that could short it out, any ideas why?
 
That's easier to guess: to protect anyone who happens to be looking at the
fuse when it blows and the glass casing shatters?
 
Mike.
Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Jan 29 01:16AM -0800


> > Hint - it ain't "time".
 
 
> Hey, I know there is some joking around going on here (and some animosity, too apparently) but the "T" DOES actually stand for: "T = Time. Time Delay or Slow Blow.(Typically open between 100 and 300 ms @ ten times the rated current)"
 
> Correct? Or am I missing something?
 
 
** Yes - the word with that T as the initial letter.

It's the German word "Trage" meaning "dragged out" or leaden.
 
All the letter codes on common fuses are for German words.
 
F = " Flink " for quickly or rapid.
 
http://www.thefusewarehouse.com/pages/learn_fuse_markings.php

 
Amaze your friends...
 
 
... Phil
mike <ham789@netzero.net>: Jan 29 03:39AM -0800


> Correct? Or am I missing something? BTW that comes from this google cached page:
 
> http://webcache.googleusercontent.com/search?q=cache:E3algcJXUCMJ:highfields-arc.co.uk/constructors/info/fusecolours.htm+&cd=2&hl=en&ct=clnk&gl=us
 
> I'm just trying to learn, I've got to replace that same damn fuse, and I'm frankly having a bitch of a time figuring out what's causing it to blow (it's the psu from a 32' flatscreen tv if that matters) Replaced a bunch of bad caps, and it powers up for about 3 seconds with a nice picture, and then bam blown fuse. Does rogaine help for hair regrowth that you pulled out yourself lol?
 
Here's the dark side of replacing caps.
Switching power supplies often work by stuffing pulses of current thru
inductors into caps from a higher voltage.
Primary failure mode of caps is increased series resistance, ESR.
 
When that resistance increases, there's a step in voltage across the cap
when the current is being stuffed in. The regulator is looking at
average voltage, so it reduces the output voltage slightly to make the
average voltage, including that step, to be the desired output.
 
Over time, that step gets bigger and bigger. You don't see any symptoms
until the step gets big enough to disrupt the circuit.
 
By the time the system shuts down, damage may have been done.
 
Had one monitor where the system processor had been fried by the peak
voltage. Had 19V spikes on a 5V supply.
 
In another, there were totem-pole fets driving the transformer for the
backlight. One of them had been damaged and had high leakage. The
backlight came up and ran for a few seconds until the other fet overheated
and blew the fuse.
 
That's why it's often a good idea to change all the caps at once.
If you're lucky, and most are, you caught it before permanent damage was
done.
 
So, back to your problem...
Most any fuse of the correct current rating should work for more than
three seconds. Yes, the right fuse is best, but fix the circuit first.
Allodoxaphobia <knock_yourself_out@example.net>: Jan 29 01:37PM


> ... (it's the psu from a 32' flatscreen tv if that matters)
 
Wow! Are you operating a small drive-in multi-media center? :-)
John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Jan 29 07:44AM -0800

On 01/29/2015 1:16 AM, Phil Allison wrote:
 
> Amaze your friends...
 
> .... Phil
 
Isn't that chart just for the European fuses? It is interesting none the
less...
 
John :-#)#
 
--
(Please post followups or tech inquiries to the newsgroup)
John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9
(604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
www.flippers.com
"Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."
dave@daveryder.com: Jan 29 08:42AM -0800

On Thursday, January 29, 2015 at 9:44:57 AM UTC-6, John Robertson wrote:
> (604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
> www.flippers.com
> "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."
 
Thanks everyone for being so helpful, it's always cool to pick the brains of some guys who know what they're doing :) ps about the shrink wrap, it's not a glass fuse, it's a ceramic fuse so the wrapping is still sort of a mystery I guess. Anyway thanks again I'll keep plugging away at it til I figure it out
 
Dave
"humbled valiant" <nobody@nowhere.com>: Jan 28 03:49PM -0500

http://www.stonetabernacle.com/INTERCOM_CIRCUIT.html
 
is my intercom/telephone/sounder/strobe circuit between shop and garage. It
utilizes an assembled part (P1) on the schematic,
 
http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10001_10001_2151671_-1
 
The shop has machinery that needs a loud bell and a strobe when the phone
rings. It also needs these to get attention for intercom paging. This is
needed from the house to the shop and from the shop to the house.
 
I haven't built the thing yet. All the materials are expensive.
 
Notice that the intercom is made up of 2 wired phones with one of the phone
wires cut and a 9v battery and 200 ohm resistor inserted in series with it.
This makes for a cheap intercom but it also needs an alarm to alert the
other end that it needs to talk.
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 13 updates in 3 topics

jurb6006@gmail.com: Jan 27 05:06PM -0800

This one might not go well. For some reason at work I didn't get their website in a search but the PCs are a little screwed up. I am working on that. Anyway, it has a 180 watt class D amp. Says "icepower" on it. ocme to find out that Icepower is a subsidiary of B&O. The amp board is integrated with the power supply and dubbed 50ASX2.
 
So I find Icepower online and their phone number in Illinois doesn't work. Their website has no "buy parts" or any of that, which is typical here. So I just keep looking ont the net for one and someone has them on eBay. Hundred bucks apiece though. I think the amp might bring $150. Problem is that it already did that and now we gotta either fix it or trade the guy into something else. Or refund, which is really not the idea here.
 
One thing worries me about that board.
 
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/29948706/50asx2.jpg
 
The board is burned where the red circles are. The one spot apears to be where the power is supplied for the preamp and the other is where I believe is the signal input from the preamp. This leads me to believe that a high potential may have been places across the hot and cold sides, or something. It is also a concern that I might have to fix the preamp, but with any luck that won't be all that bad. Couple of TL072s and all that, doesn't bother me. (I didn't really look at that yet)
 
But y'all with the experience in music stuff and all that, should we just shitcan the thing ? I'm not even completely sure what they're worth. I didn't find any on eBay.
 
Now once the boss starts searching the web for that part he might be able to do better than a hiundred bucks. I have sen him search. So if that happens, fine I probably ifx the preamp.
 
Questions are thus :
 
Does anyone know where to get a deal on that amp/power board ?
 
Is such a design more vulnerable to power fluctuations or big ESD like lightning than a conventional design ? If so, maybe it is better to blow off these class D amps.
 
I think we are going to see more class D in this business because of the allure of the no heat, no heatsink. Not to mention the efficiency. you know I am not afraid of class D amps, but this thing looks like a dman PCI cardd the way it is built. I ain't fixing that. We do not have the equipment for SMDs right now, and it is extremely small. What's more, the chips say "icepower" on them so if any of them fry that is that probably. I think you can actually get "That" ICs, but I am sure about these, plus they are surface mounts.
 
So are the outputs.
 
I don't like this really. If all the class D is going to be built practically unservicable like that I don't know what to do. I didn't learn all this shit to become a board jockey. I know sometimes there is no choice, but still.
 
Maybe we should stock up on tubes and try to gravitate towards that.
 
Whatever. Opinions welcome. Anyone knows where to get a deal on those amp modules I would appreciate it. If you tell me a hundred bucks is a good price, I'll have to consider that.
 
TIA
Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Jan 27 06:27PM -0800


> This one might not go well. For some reason at work I didn't get their website in a search but the PCs are a little screwed up. I am working on that. Anyway, it has a 180 watt class D amp. Says "icepower" on it. ocme to find out that Icepower is a subsidiary of B&O. The amp board is integrated with the power supply and dubbed 50ASX2.
 
 
** Here is a link to a supplier for US$99 with free delivery.
 
http://www.classicaudioparts.com/index.php/featured/icepower-170w-amplifier-module-complete-with-power-supply.html
 
Here is another, but a bit more expenisve...
 
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/ICEPOWER-amplifier-circuit-board-module-ICE50ASX2-professional-grade-digital-amplifier-with-power-amplifier-board/1600831618.htm
 
The sort of damage you describe can happen when a speaker lead is mixed up with an instrument lead and plugged into an input - of the same amp or another item.
 
If the sleeve of the jack plug is "hot", input ground tracks get blown open.
 
If the tip is hot, the voltage can find its way onto the DC rails of the preamp and do lotsa damage.
 
That IcePower module is tiny ( 4.3 x 3.1 inches) and lives inside a combo amp - right?
 
 
 
... Phil
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Jan 27 06:41PM -0800

Phil Allison wrote:
 
 
> That IcePower module is tiny ( 4.3 x 3.1 inches) and lives inside a combo amp - right?
 
 
** The Chinese made Eden EC210 uses such a module:
 
http://bassmusicianmagazine.com/2013/03/eden-ec210-combo-bass-amplifier-review-by-eric-parsons/
 
 
 
 
.... Phil
jurb6006@gmail.com: Jan 27 06:42PM -0800

>"The sort of damage you describe can happen when a speaker lead is mixed up with >an instrument lead and plugged into an input - of the same amp or another item. "
 
Well I did tell the boss "That amp did not blow itself". If thre guy did that it will be time for some customer education or something.
 
>"If the sleeve of the jack plug is "hot", input ground tracks get blown open. "
 
Understood. Work on those big "BOOM mufuka BOOM mufuka" car amps ? Let the ground lead come a bit loose on that amp and BOOM is kinda the word. When that happens they get a letter printed explaining that if this happens again it will not be covered under warranty. Might have to do this in this case.
 
>"If the tip is hot, the voltage can find its way onto the DC rails of the preamp and do lotsa damage. "
 
Well it could be hot with the output of a six hundred watt amp so yeah. But, it loks like the little fusible that supplies the preamp took a bad hit. should I assume the preamp is shorted ? Probably. Hopefully the thing has protection diodes and I don't have to change all the chips, hopefully just the regu, wait, does it even have regulators there ? Hmm.
 
"That IcePower module is tiny ( 4.3 x 3.1 inches) and lives inside a combo amp - right? "
 
Yup. The smallest 180 watt amp I ever saw. Even other class Ds in that power range. It's been a while so I don't remember the makes or models. Of course that means the switchers probably weren't good enough to just use the copper on the board as a heat sink. I seem to remember some of them using TO-220s standing up with only their tabs for heatsink.
 
That link to eBay is probably the one I found. I would really like to get one cheaper because that approches what this thing sells for. These musicians are not wealthy I have found.
Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Jan 27 06:58PM -0800


> That link to eBay is probably the one I found.
 
 
** I posted no link for ebay.
 
The first link ( Classic Audio Parts) had them for US$99 inc delivery.
 
The second from Allied Express wanted US$3795 for the same item.
 
 
 
... Phil
jurb6006@gmail.com: Jan 27 10:00PM -0800

OK.
 
Classicaudioparts obviously has an eBay account. That was the exact username on there selling for $99. I didn't look at the shipping. It said over ten available.
 
My mistake, but remember I am doing this almost blindfolded.
 
(that's no excuse, I wasn't paying enough attention)
 
Seems to me, I should go directly to the company instead of eBay though. the company makes that 18% and I can probably avoid using Paypal. Maybe. More places are going to that and fuck all that. I do not need an account at the goddamn grocery store. They are getting ridiculous. "Do you have your Walmart card ?". Just tell me what the price is, if you charge me more than others I will not come back.
 
Fucking marketing, it is the worst thing that ever happened to mankind.
 
But I digress.
Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Jan 27 10:53PM -0800


> Classicaudioparts obviously has an eBay account. That was the exact username on there selling for $99. I didn't look at the shipping. It said over ten available.
 
** The original Icepower board is probably fixable - burnt SMD resistors can be bridged with regular 1/4 or 1/8 watt types. The old ones may need to be removed.
 
The pre-amp PCB is likely damaged - the external speaker jack on the Eden carries audio power on BOTH tip and sleeve, since the module is BTL.
 
Look for blown tracks and op-amps shorted rail to rail.
 
 
 
.... Phil
jurb6006@gmail.com: Jan 28 12:57AM -0800

>"The pre-amp PCB is likely damaged - the external speaker jack on the Eden >carries audio power on BOTH tip and sleeve, since the module is BTL. "
 
Are you fucking kidding me ? That is a stupid design.
 
Yeah I kinda figured it was BTL looking at all the copper sunk chppers on the obttom of the board. At first I said "Where the fuck are the outputs ?" and the boss says "Oh now you're using fucking foul language". I said "Fuck yeah".
 
But anyway, this unit did not appear to have any speaker output. If marketed here the UL probably mandated that because of people's stupidity. Like when a 6 amp fuse blows and it blows a new one so they go get a 20 amp.
 
Yeah, this tip and sleeve shit, you can make it adapt real nice for input huh. but for output we got a problem. The wrong plug shorts out the jack right ? then what ? Blow a fuse ? the one thing I have noticed about music equipment is that ost of it has not protection, or not enough.
 
Tell you what though, there is an exception. I got this Yammerhammer wedge powered mixer, like 600 a channel with a blown channel. That thing has protect. It is cosmetically poor, but function is worth something. Be nice not to worry if the knobs match. (is there like a color code for those ?)
 
Anyway, I got the transistors fro that, the full set, but that company diudn't have the reistors I want. Emitter resistors and a set of base resistors. They got like 47s going to the bases and double 0.47s off each emitter, three pairs.
 
The parts are wasy, but right now we are waiting until we got a decent sizable order. We own this shit so there is no rush.
jurb6006@gmail.com: Jan 28 01:06AM -0800

>"Look for blown tracks and op-amps shorted rail to rail. "
 
There is very little from board to board and I think that there is only one supply to the preamp. Only two wires and the rest are all accounted for. Line in, input, speaker out, I am tellinya, that preamp runs on a single ended source. Two wires.
 
Actually that doesn't mean shit about what you said. Rail to rail, if one rail is ground there you go.
 
I think it a good sign that the fusible is blown.
 
bottom line, do you agree that someting happened to that thing ? I mean you said this can happen when some idiot sticks a 300 watt output into a line input, OK, and I know hat lightning can do. (details some other time) But do we concur that this thing did NOT fail of its own accord ?
 
That reparadigms everything. (yes, I am now licensed to invent words)
chuck <chuck@deja.net>: Jan 28 10:18AM -0600


>Maybe we should stock up on tubes and try to gravitate towards that.
 
>Whatever. Opinions welcome. Anyone knows where to get a deal on those amp modules I would appreciate it. If you tell me a hundred bucks is a good price, I'll have to consider that.
 
>TIA
 
 
I used to work for Eden when there were two employees. I heard that
David Nordschow sold out to a Chicago company called U.S. Music. They
might have a parts department. Chuck
bleachbot <bleachbot@httrack.com>: Jan 28 03:27AM +0100

jurb6006@gmail.com: Jan 27 04:13PM -0800

>"FFS - stop being such a PITA scatterbrain."
 
Easier said than done.
 
 
I think one's a Peavey nd the other is a Crate, but I will check and get the model numbers.
 
These both mount perpendicular, in other words the board is parallel with the panel. I haven't ruin into any bad ones of other types, whether chassis or board munt, just these. Wonderr why.
jurb6006@gmail.com: Jan 27 04:22PM -0800

>their search engine kind of sucks, so it might help to go to Amphenol,
>Switchcraft, or Neutrik's page to get a part number, and then search
>for that at Markertek. "
 
I will give that a shot. Actually I am lucky to be able to get on the net at all there, I just ran AVG on two of their PCs and it was quite busy. Then I tried to install Dropbox and got it to go on one PC but not the next. Argh. Guess what kind of job I am glad not to have. So basically that's why a few things got backburnered.
 
They tell me those powered mixers sell pretty well.
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 8 updates in 3 topics

jurb6006@gmail.com: Jan 26 09:31PM -0800

I need two different types, both PC mopunt and stand straight up. ?I onther words the board it behind them, not perpendicular. Can't seem to find them. Parts Express, CE, Speakers Unlimited, even Didgikey and all them.
 
On one, part of it is missing so I don't know what it said, like Amphenopl or Swoitchcraft or whatever. the other ones I have not pulled yet. I am looking for a place sells them with pictures so I can match them up. I don't want to order the wrong thing.
 
So who has these things. Boss is cool with me opening up new sources. And we need it. I got him into Digikey now which is good, but they do not carry those XLR jacks.
 
Who does ? Someonw does.
Ken Layton <KLayton888@aol.com>: Jan 26 09:52PM -0800

You tried Mouser and Jameco?
Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Jan 26 11:04PM -0800


> On one, part of it is missing so I don't know what it said, like Amphenopl or Swoitchcraft or whatever. the other ones I have not pulled yet. I am looking for a place sells them with pictures so I can match them up. I don't want to order the wrong thing.
 
> So who has these things. Boss is cool with me opening up new sources. And we need it. I got him into Digikey now which is good, but they do not carry those XLR jacks.
 
> Who does ? Someonw does.
 
 
** FFS - stop being such a PITA scatterbrain.
 
Describe them properly and say what equipment they come from.

No dealer has every make, model and version of XLR ever made.
 
 
 
.... Phil
jurb6006@gmail.com: Jan 26 11:31PM -0800

On Tuesday, January 27, 2015 at 12:52:44 AM UTC-5, Ken Layton wrote:
> You tried Mouser and Jameco?
 
Actually no, and that is what I was looing for. I have dealt with Muser a little bit but not much. I never thougbt of them for beign a source for this shit. I have never dealt with Jameco, I wil chec them out.
 
Thanks.
mroberds@att.net: Jan 27 10:57AM

> Parts Express, CE, Speakers Unlimited, even Didgikey and all them.
 
Try Markertek. They do all kinds of audio and video cables and
connectors. They have bunches of the cable connectors, but they also
have some panel mount and PC board mount connectors. Unfortunately
their search engine kind of sucks, so it might help to go to Amphenol,
Switchcraft, or Neutrik's page to get a part number, and then search
for that at Markertek.
 
http://www.markertek.com/category/XLR-Connectors
 
Standard disclaimers apply: I don't get money or other consideration
from any companies mentioned.
 
Matt Roberds
"humbled valiant" <nobody@nowhere.com>: Jan 26 09:23PM -0500

Here's a phone circuit I made to curb the relentless assault of creditors.
We can turn the phone line completely off from 2 locations, the living room
and bedroom. We can also switch between internet phone (long distance) and
land line (local). Then we don't have to use up internet phone minutes for
local calls.
 
http://www.stonetabernacle.com/PHONE_CIRCUIT.html
 
This has been working well for the past 4 years and the LED's haven't burned
out yet.
bitrex <bitrex@de.lete.earthlink.net>: Jan 26 09:38PM -0500


> http://www.stonetabernacle.com/PHONE_CIRCUIT.html
 
> This has been working well for the past 4 years and the LED's haven't burned
> out yet.
 
3/10 obvious troll is obvious
 
--
 
 
----Android NewsGroup Reader----
http://usenet.sinaapp.com/
"hrhofmann@sbcglobal.net" <hrhofmann@sbcglobal.net>: Jan 26 12:11PM -0800

I have a fairly old Kepco Model 100-0.2M power supply with no output. Before I tear into the unit, I was hoping someone here would have a schematic, or know where to get one for free. The supply is too old to spend much $ on repairing, but I have a huge parts supply and hope to get it running again without spending much money.
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 6 updates in 2 topics

electron206@online.com: Jan 25 08:57PM -0600

I was on my computer when my Flat Screen Monitor went black. Just
suddenly black, no prior indication of a problem. It's a HP 1740.
 
As far as I know, this monitor has a florescent bulb to light it.
 
I'm thinking the bulb died, but I'm noticing that the indicator LED is
now flashing, not solid "ON". This light is right next to the ON-OFF
power switch.
 
Pushing the ON-OFF switch does not seem to shut it off either. I
unplugged it, then plugged it back in and that light just flashes. This
makes me think that something else in the circuitry fried. (Just a
guess). It would seem to me that if it was just the bulb, everything
else would function normally. But I've never worked on one of these
monitors, so I dont really know.
 
I do have electronics knowledge, and used to work on Tv sets and the old
CRT monitors, but it's been years.....
 
So far I have not even been able to get inside this thing. I got the
plastic case off, and now there's a metal case, which has screws along
the edge, but then there are wires or plastic strips that hold the shell
together.
 
If it just needs a bulb and they are not too costly, I may fix it, but
if it's more than that, I'll just trash it. But just for the heck of
it, I want to get inside of it. The problem with stuff built like this,
is that as the layers come apart, flat ribbon cables need to be
unplugged. Even if I can get it apart, how the hell can anyone test
them, when stuff is unplugged. Ideally, it could still be plugged in,
and I could measure voltages, etc.... That dont seem possible. I
suppose like most modern electronics, it's just a throw away item.
 
This is almost worse than taking apart my laptop computer.
 
If by chance I can get it open without destroying it in the process, is
there a way to test the bulb? Is there a way to test the whole unit
without having layers plugged in to those ribbon cables.
 
It looks to me like this is one of those factory only repairs, where
they know exactly how to disassemble it, and have extension cables for
those ribbon cables, and special tools to open the case.
 
It's stuff like this that made me quit repairing electronics. The old
stuff was so much easier to work on. Even the old vacuum tube stuff.
(I guess I'm showing my age)! :)
 
Thanks in advance for all help!
Knoppix User <faux@nothere.com>: Jan 26 03:21AM

On Sun, 25 Jan 2015 20:57:36 -0600, electron206 wrote:
 
> stuff was so much easier to work on. Even the old vacuum tube stuff. (I
> guess I'm showing my age)! :)
 
> Thanks in advance for all help!
 
I have a similar ase here only in my case I know the problem is with the
LEDS backlighting the unit.
Like you I recall burning myself on tubes even before hybrids.
I'll just try reflowing some stuff and continuity testing the lighting
circuits however your problem seems rather more complicated.
 
I googled the info to pull mine apart.
If I cannot figure it out and fix it in 2 hrs. out to the trash she goes.
I've several adaquate units scored from the thrift stores as well as four
CRTs
"John Keiser" <john.keiser2@hawaiiantel.net>: Jan 25 05:51PM -1000

I am just a DIYer but have fixed many flat screen monitors, not HP.
The cause is often a bad cap.
So common, Ebay even has kits for the parts [for Dells, at least].
I have an ESR meter but you can usually visually see the bad cap.
You might as well spend the extra 15 minutes and remove the metal shielding
and look for bad caps.
 
"Knoppix User" <faux@nothere.com> wrote in message
news:3pixw.1209173$UR.988600@fx04.iad...
mike <ham789@netzero.net>: Jan 25 08:07PM -0800

On 1/25/2015 7:51 PM, John Keiser wrote:
> I have an ESR meter but you can usually visually see the bad cap.
> You might as well spend the extra 15 minutes and remove the metal shielding
> and look for bad caps.
 
Change all the caps.
More than once, I've decided that some of the caps have OK ESR.
Six months later, taking it apart to change them too.
 
Also, unplug the thing and leave it unplugged.
As the caps resistance goes up, the voltage spike increases.
Your voltmeter still
reads nominal voltage, cuz that's still the average voltage. Put a
scope on it
and you see a very different picture.
You can get 20V spikes on the 3.3V supply.
The Graphics Chips
don't like that and will short. Then, you've got a brick.
Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Jan 25 10:12PM -0800


>I was on my computer when my Flat Screen Monitor went black. Just
>suddenly black, no prior indication of a problem. It's a HP 1740.
 
It's probably not the CCFL tubes but rather the capacitors in the
inverter section, which is built onto the power supply PCB.
 
Thank you for including the model number. Please double check the
muddle number as it can be a 1740 or an L1740 display. If you're not
sure, tear it open and compare the photos in the following links.
There are also different mutations of the PCB.
 
You can buy a recap (capacitor replacement) kit for about $7.00:
<http://www.ebay.com/itm/330506313562> (L1740)
<http://www.ebay.com/itm/330502333292> (1740)
There are other kits for replacing the semiconductors, which sometimes
also blow up. If you don't feel like doing the repair, you can also
get PCB's rather cheaply:
<http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=hp+1740+board>
Again, notice the different PCB mutations.
 
You will probably find the PCB between the two big xformers to be
overheated and scorched. If the PCB crumbles, take some epoxy and
rebuild the burnt area. Use your imagination for how to rework the
PCB traces. With a single sided board, this should be easy.
 
Hint: Take some digital photos as you go along so that you can put it
back together without extra screws, etc.
 
Good luck.
 
--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Jan 25 07:03PM -0800


> OK, I didn't have it in front of me. Giuld, Gould, so it is Guild. Of England actually.
 
 
** No. Guild is an AMERICAN company, based around New York in the early days.
 
WEM is an English company, based in London.
 
Founder and owner Charley Watkins died only a few months ago.
 
http://www.musicindustrynews.com/wp-content/uploads/sites/16/2014/11/image.jpg
 
 
> England is a misnomers because it has not existed fro hundreds of years.
 
** England exists.
 
It's what remains once you remove, Scotland, Northern Ireland and Wales from the UK.
 
 
.... Phil
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