Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 9 updates in 5 topics

etpm@whidbey.com: Dec 30 09:49AM -0800

On Tue, 29 Dec 2020 14:23:12 -0800, John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>
wrote:
 
>might be in the middle of a house/wood stove/cooking fire during a
>blinding snowstorm...
 
>John :-#(#
Nobody has their well pump control in a water tight box. They all
breathe. And every pressure switch on every well pressure tank
breathes. My well control is in a box made for outdoor use too, and
yet it still breathes. Though bugs cannot get in the atmosphere
certainly does. Rain could pour over my pressure switch and well
control box all day and nothing would get wet inside, but humidity
will. Nevertheless this does not happen. In any case I bought an
appropriate contactor and mounted it in the well control box.
Everything is fine. The contactor is switched by the pressure tank
switch. The whole setup meets code.
Eric
 
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bruce bowser <bruce2bowser@gmail.com>: Dec 31 07:10AM -0800

> certainly does. Rain could pour over my pressure switch and well
> control box all day and nothing would get wet inside, but humidity
> will.
 
That's a free air connection. Its easier to get in to make repairs/additions, just like with an overhead wire connection. Wires in underground conduit might be tough to get to and repair, like after lighting strikes.
bruce bowser <bruce2bowser@gmail.com>: Dec 31 07:01AM -0800

> 2. When the phone is on
> 3. when the battery has been removed
> thank you.
 
I saw something like that at the start of a 1983 season #2 episode #3 titled: "Red Hot Steel" from the 1980s Remington Steele drama series starring Stephanie Zimbalist. Pretty scary.
bruce bowser <bruce2bowser@gmail.com>: Dec 31 06:48AM -0800

> was serviced byb me after a few gins so instead I waited until I
> bought the grinder in real time, used it for a couple years, posted a
> question about it here and now I have a new cap coming.
 
Good stuff with orange juice and 2 or 3 banana liquors. I wonder what an 80 year-old gin bottle would fetch today.
Mike Hooker <mhooker32@gmail.com>: Dec 30 12:25PM -0800

im using a GQ-4x burner, its a willem type. im trying to burn 3 images to a single prom. the 1st at 0000, the second at offset 1000, the 3rd at 1800. i try the combine feature, but it tells me to close the application, re-open without choosing a device. that doesnt work,. its a 2764. i tried burning the 1st file, then the 2nd, then the third. i see all the code there, but not sure if thats the right way. i would rather combine into one file, and then burn.
 
thanks
dplatt@coop.radagast.org (Dave Platt): Dec 30 01:52PM -0800

In article <8f3647e7-ff48-4bc0-bb1a-89ab5215dc12n@googlegroups.com>,
>tells me to close the application, re-open without choosing a device. that doesnt work,. its
>a 2764. i tried burning the 1st file, then the 2nd, then the third. i see all the code there,
>but not sure if thats the right way. i would rather combine into one file, and then burn.
 
If you have access to a Linux system you can do the combining with
"dd" (one of many choices but it's straightforward).
 
One way to do this would be
 
dd if=/dev/zero of=combined.bin bs=1 count=8192
dd if=1st.bin of=combined.bin bs=1 seek=0 conv=notrunc
dd if=2nd.bin of=combined.bin bs=1 seek=$((0x1000)) conv=notrunc
dd if=3rd.bin of=combined.bin bs=1 seek=$((0x1800)) conv=notrunc
 
In plain language - create an 8k-byte file full of zeros, then copy
each of the three separate images into it, seeking to the appropriate
offset in the file first, and not truncating the file while copying.
John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Dec 30 03:17PM -0800

On 2020/12/30 1:52 p.m., Dave Platt wrote:
 
> In plain language - create an 8k-byte file full of zeros, then copy
> each of the three separate images into it, seeking to the appropriate
> offset in the file first, and not truncating the file while copying.
 
Nice solution, I would only suggest editing the create function to make
it a 8K file of "FF"s so you aren't trying to burn 00s - this will speed
up the programming slightly. Afraid I don't know how, but I'm sure it is
easy to look up...
 
John :-#)#
 
--
(Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup)
John's Jukes Ltd.
MOVED to #7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3
(604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
www.flippers.com
"Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."
mjb@signal11.invalid (Mike): Dec 31 10:21AM

In article <VLudndyc8sYAl3DCnZ2dnUU7-fnNnZ2d@giganews.com>,
 
>> dd if=/dev/zero of=combined.bin bs=1 count=8192
 
...
 
>it a 8K file of "FF"s so you aren't trying to burn 00s - this will speed
>up the programming slightly. Afraid I don't know how, but I'm sure it is
>easy to look up...
 
Use /dev/one instead of /dev/zero :)
 
It would *only* speed up programming if the hardware/software used
optimizes things and skips/refuses to "program" locations that
are 0xFF (the default blank chip state).
 
Otherwise, there's no speedup there.
 
Serious answer, if you don't have /dev/one available, change the first
line to :-
 
cat /dev/zero | tr '\000' '\377' | dd of=combined.bin bs=1 count=8192
 
Omitting the "if=/dev/zero" takes input from stdin, and tr swaps
0 for 377 (Octal)/255(Dec)/0xFF(hex)
--
--------------------------------------+------------------------------------
Mike Brown: mjb[-at-]signal11.org.uk | http://www.signal11.org.uk
bruce bowser <bruce2bowser@gmail.com>: Dec 30 10:52PM -0800


> 16 divided by 3 = 5.33, 14 divided by 3 = 4.67
 
> This type of error seems to occur a lot in Lowes, Home Depot, and others
> item listings.
 
I wonder if Lowes has changed these figures to something more accurate or not.
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 2 updates in 1 topic

bruce bowser <bruce2bowser@gmail.com>: Dec 29 12:56PM -0800

> good contact because they slam together. They even slam right through
> spiders and beetles. I dunno why the bugs like to hang out on the
> switch contacts.
 
I bet doing work after breakfast or lunch with chicken grease, etc.. still on your hands means that more than just beetles and spiders will stay around.
 
John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Dec 29 02:23PM -0800

> switch contacts. Mebbe it's done on a dare.
> Thanks,
> Eric
 
Why are the electrical contacts not in a watertight box? This is a damp
environment, right? The controller(s) should be sealed up to prevent the
risk of moisture, bugs, etc...
 
As Peter keeps saying, spend the money, get a proper sealed system that
can handle the load, and the environment - or your next water outage
might be in the middle of a house/wood stove/cooking fire during a
blinding snowstorm...
 
John :-#(#
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 1 update in 1 topic

"Peter W." <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Dec 28 08:17AM -0800

Follow up from 2.5 years ago. Over the last few days, I did my annual-re-making-of-all-connections exercise on the HK system (Citation 17/18/19, AR M5 speakers, Revox turntable, Revox cassette player, Sony CD Changer, ). Four things arose:
a) The phono-input (17) was fuzzy. Fix was re-solder the right-channel ground on the input jack - HK components of that era are notorious for cold-solders. Luckily it was visible.
b) Minimal hum, both channels, only when the 17 was ON. Cleaned up two internal grounds, went away.
c) The *other* channel became intermittent - but full output from the 17, so, within the 19. Much longer fix - with the wooden stick method, literally poking around. Found the 4-section Molex connector (only two sections connected) was intermittent at the ground. NOT the connector, but the square pin through the driver board was cold-soldered and/or had cracked at the board. Interesting inasmuch as it tested for continuity, but was intermittent in operation Re-soldered - good now. I also re-soldered all the pins on the other Molex connectors - figuring they were all done at the same time, likely by the same individual with the same equipment.
d) The AR woofers both needed new surrounds. Which by pure blind luck, I had sitting around with the proper glue. Took about 4 hours each - mostly as that is how long it takes the glue to set. Better now!
 
 
While I was there, I adjusted the muting threshold and stereo thresholds for the 18. The target stations have reduced power slightly, making the adjustment more of a convenience than a necessity.
 
Anyway, no more troubles. Next: the main system.
 
Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 2 updates in 2 topics

bruce bowser <bruce2bowser@gmail.com>: Dec 27 08:28AM -0800

On Sunday, September 13, 2020 at 1:40:58 AM UTC-4, GS wrote:
> utility than others. Most in Pittsburgh wonder where the local channel 13
> VHF-H went. They can no longer receive the new 60 mHz ch 4 frequency with
> tiny antennas LOL.
 
I noticed in Pittsburgh that your neighbor could be 100 ft lower or higher than you are.
bruce bowser <bruce2bowser@gmail.com>: Dec 26 11:04PM -0800

On Wednesday, September 9, 2020 at 4:05:35 AM UTC-4, Cydrome Leader wrote:
 
> The suggested fix was to open the speed controller and cut out a bridge
> rectifier that turned the AC output of the triac speed controller and just
> let the motor get AC.
 
So, the rectifier no longer turned AC output of the controller to DC? So, the controller wasn't used after that?
 
> It worked fine after that. I'm not sure why they added a bridge recitfier
> in the first place, or why removing it made a difference but it did.
 
Didn't they need DC to the controller's resistor circuit?
 
The
> standard universal motor type deal. The whole controller is cobbled
> together looking so I can't even tell if they added the rectifier or the
> OEM did.
 
Oh, the rectifier was added after the original sale.

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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 4 updates in 2 topics

"Peter W." <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Dec 26 04:01AM -0800

Yo, Drongo:
 
I waited until after Christmas - my bad. But as a New Year's present, I wish to reassure you that your position as Village Idiot is secure. You DO NOT have to compete for it.
 
Peter Wieck
Melrose Park. PA
"jurb...@gmail.com" <jurb6006@gmail.com>: Dec 25 10:06AM -0800

Not hard. Look at the -B2 regulator circuit. The reference which is direct is two Zeners, WZ-270. In series they add up to 54 volts. That will approximately be the regulated output.
Tim Schwartz <tim@bristolnj.com>: Dec 25 09:08PM -0500

> Not hard. Look at the -B2 regulator circuit. The reference which is direct is two Zeners, WZ-270. In series they add up to 54 volts. That will approximately be the regulated output.
 
Hi there,
 
 
I'd agree, but the diodes are buring up hot, and I'm using 1 watt in
place of the half watters. Several of the resistors have been replaced
before, and I'm wondering if there is an error in the schematic as to
the part value. I've replaced the pass transistor and dual diode as well.
 
Thanks!
Tim
Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Dec 25 09:47PM -0800

Tim Schwartz wrote:
 
> place of the half watters. Several of the resistors have been replaced
> before, and I'm wondering if there is an error in the schematic as to
> the part value. I've replaced the pass transistor and dual diode as well.
 
** Try changing that 15 ohm in series with the PNP transistor to 27 or 33 ohms.
The circuit is a *current source* of about 45mA.
The load current is only about 12 mA leaving a lot for the two 27V zeners to cop.
 
 
 
..... Phil
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 7 updates in 3 topics

bruce bowser <bruce2bowser@gmail.com>: Dec 25 08:31AM -0800

On Wednesday, September 16, 2020 at 11:49:53 AM UTC-4, legg wrote:
 
> I note that signal strength is reported low on
> the duff phone, before signal lost.
 
> Is the antenna replaceable?
 
(I know its a different maker, anyway:)
6 Tips to Boost Your iPhone's Battery Life
 
The iPhone has always been pretty good about battery life, particularly in terms of standby time, but something changed recently—and in a big way. Reports are all over the Web about how iPhone 4S owners in particular have noticed vastly reduced standby time compared to older iPhones, on the order of 10 to 15 percent reductions per hour, although other people are saying they don't see a problem at all.
 
It turns out there is something to this story, though: Apple has confirmed that a bug in iOS 5, not the iPhone 4S itself, is responsible for the poor battery life many people are seeing, and said that a fix is in the works. It turns out that the iOS 5 bug means you'll also see the problem with an older iPhone, or possibly even an iPad or iPod touch, if you install the new OS on it.
 
Already have iOS 5? Here are six things you can do right now to boost your iPhone's battery life.
 
1. Set time zones manually. This time around, by default, iOS 5 tries to auto-adjust your time zone based on repetitive calls to the GPS radio, which is a huge battery drain. For now, turn this off: head to Settings -> Location Services -> System Services (which is located all the way at the bottom) -> Setting Time Zone. Note that this setting isn't in the Date & Time section, which makes it tough for people to find.
 
2. Disable location services when not needed. You can also disable all Location Services, which is a good rule in general for conserving battery life, but you'll need to re-enable it for GPS navigation and other tasks as necessary.
 
3. Disable as many notifications as possible.Notifications were a battery drain with earlier versions of the OS; I usually kept them turned off on test handsets, and saw several days of standby time on a charge even with Wi-Fi, Bluetooth, and GPS enabled. The new iOS 5 has a completely different notification system, with an Android-style pull-down bar at the top that collects multiple notifications and organizes them. In the process of adding this, Apple removed the global notification toggle in the Settings menu, so you can't just disable them all in one shot anymore. You can, however, disable app notifications, while leaving important ones (such as text and voicemail) intact. In other words, you can turn it back into an approximation of the original system, which separated call notifications from app notifications automatically.
 
Image representing iPhone as depicted in Crunc...
Image via CrunchBase
 
To do this, head to Settings -> Notifications, tap a given category (Phone, Messages, Reminders) or app (Walgreens, Zillow, and so on), and toggle Notification Center at the top to Off. The fewer notifications you enable, the more standby time you should see. While you're in there, note that you can change the way they appear; you can return a given notification to an alert window in the center of the screen, the way it used to be, instead of with the new bar on top.
 
4. Check for e-mail manually. E-mail is another perennial battery drain; normally I set all accounts to receive updates manually (i.e. when I load the app), instead of at a set frequency or via "push." The same goes for Facebook and Twitter updates; if the app is constantly refreshing them in the background, it's hitting the radios and consuming power, and you're not even reading them.
 
5. Check for software updates. Right now, iOS 5.0 is still current, but be aware that there's a different procedure now: You can check for OS updates right from the phone, instead of using a USB cable and syncing with iTunes. Head to Settings -> General -> Software Update. Apple recently sent iOS 5.0.1 to developers, according to BGR; updates include bug fixes for battery life, among other things. Keep an eye on PCMag for the latest news on iOS updates as well.
 
6. Some minor things can still help. Finally, you can still do all the usual, old-school things to improve battery life, such as reducing screen brightness, disabling Wi-Fi and Bluetooth, and so on. The only one that really helps here, in my experience, is screen brightness, but you need it cranked to see the Retina Display in bright sunlight. This was never a big issue with the iPhone, though; the above tips, plus an eventual bug fix from Apple, should resolve the vast majority of battery life issues with iOS 5.
 
-- https://buzzonindia.wordpress.com/2011/11/03/6-tips-to-boost-your-iphones-battery-life/
 
(also stay off speaker phone and get an echo device)
bruce bowser <bruce2bowser@gmail.com>: Dec 24 10:47AM -0800

On Sunday, September 13, 2020 at 4:00:07 AM UTC-4, Fox's Mercantile wrote:
> Simple Green and finally denatured alcohol to get rid of the water.
 
> I'd say it came out pretty clean.
> <https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/685910956580405312/754506691353116722/unknown.png>
 
Alcohol can etch aluminum, marble, limestone, travertine and certain granites and it can remove plastics and various forms of carbon (like from valves).
"Peter W." <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Dec 24 12:19PM -0800

a} Please read the MSDS for WD40. It is 100% volatile. Really.
b) The nasty, sticky skunge 'left behind' by WD40 is not from the WD40, but what was re-distributed by the WD40 all over everything.
c) How to get rid of it: There are various solvents that are quite effective depending on the substrate. Brake Cleaner is one. Carburetor Cleaner is another - again, depending on the substrate. There are many others. Ans there is always the dishwasher.
d) First-cause was not enough WD40 in the first place, sufficient to both dissolve and then rinse off the skunge.
e) WD40 is neither a lubricant, nor an anti-oxidant, nor a cleaner, nor much of anything else other than a material designed to displace water. And it does that exceedingly well. All the other 'off-label' stuff is much like adding aspirin, chelated iron and Karo syrup to Christmas Tree water. Does it work?
 
Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
"ohg...@gmail.com" <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Dec 24 01:16PM -0800

On Thursday, December 24, 2020 at 3:19:47 PM UTC-5, Peter W. wrote:
> e) WD40 is neither a lubricant, nor an anti-oxidant, nor a cleaner, nor much of anything else other than a material designed to displace water. And it does that exceedingly well. All the other 'off-label' stuff is much like adding aspirin, chelated iron and Karo syrup to Christmas Tree water. Does it work?
> Peter Wieck
> Melrose Park, PA
 
Here's what bothers me about WD40 despite what the MSDS says. I've used it where there was no previous lubricant, and found later than it crusted over. I used it twice, once on an HDMI connector on the back of a bluray and the other on a micro USB connector on a wifi extender, both a bit touchy due to contact issues. Yes, I know it's not a contact preservative but any clean lube works fine off label. Several months later, both quit working. Removing the connectors revealed white crusty material on both the connector and inside the cables. I ended up using WD to flush out the crusties and then flushed out the WD with Free All. No more problems.
Ralph Mowery <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: Dec 24 10:19PM -0500

In article <8329151d-88c8-4b2b-9d4e-856c9e176fafn@googlegroups.com>,
ohger1s@gmail.com says...
 
> Here's what bothers me about WD40 despite what the MSDS says. I've used it where there was no previous lubricant, and found later than it crusted over. I used it twice, once on an HDMI connector on the back of a bluray and the other on a micro USB connector on a wifi extender, both a bit touchy due to contact issues. Yes, I
know it's not a contact preservative but any clean lube works fine off label. Several months later, both quit working. Removing the connectors revealed white crusty material on both the connector and inside the cables. I ended up using WD to flush out the crusties and then flushed out the WD with Free All. No more problems.
 
I have seen WD40 leave behind some crud also. Not sure if it was dust
it attracted or what, but it was crud. Free All did the same thing to
me on a piece of equipment. I do not let WD-40 in the house and use
Kroil to loosen stuck bolts.
I use other oils for lubrication.
Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Dec 24 08:41PM -0800

Peter Wanker Raving Luantic & Pig wrote:
 
===================================
> a} Please read the MSDS for WD40. It is 100% volatile. Really.
 
** Pedantic tripe - like every post from the trolling nutter.

> e) WD40 is neither a lubricant,
 
** Contains lots of light oil.
 
> nor an anti-oxidant,
 
** The oil layer keeps oxygen and water at bay so it does that job.
 
> nor a cleaner,
 
** Dissolves greases and many other things in an instant.
 
> nor much of anything else other than a material designed to displace water.
 
** Very rarely used it for that.

But it does kill cockroaches pretty quick.
 
 
..... Phil
Daniel Fynn <fynnashba@gmail.com>: Dec 24 02:12PM -0800

On Thursday, December 24, 2020 at 2:00:19 PM UTC, HW wrote:
> You will also need a pull-up resistor and a diode.
 
> Try this:
 
> https://www.google.com/search?q=555+monostable+edge+trigger
Thanks
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 1 update in 1 topic

HW <none@no.no>: Dec 24 03:00PM +0100

On Wed, 23 Dec 2020 18:38:29 -0800 (PST), Daniel Fynn
 
>Meaning when pin 2 is held low for a long time, the output will go high for the same 10 seconds and then will go off.
 
What you need is what is called edge triggering. A simple way to
implement this, is to use a capacitor in series with the trigger line.
You will also need a pull-up resistor and a diode.
 
Try this:
 
https://www.google.com/search?q=555+monostable+edge+trigger
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 25 updates in 2 topics

micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Dec 24 06:40AM +0100

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micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Dec 24 06:40AM +0100

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From: micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>
Subject: Re: Quality AM radio
Message-ID: <lf60uclu1sion030ci352uh6ika7l47gt6@4ax.com>
Newsgroups: sci.electronics.repair
micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Dec 24 06:40AM +0100

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From: micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>
Subject: Re: Quality AM radio
Message-ID: <2728ucp1vn68sufkh2oo7j5vgsibkpsvn8@4ax.com>
Newsgroups: sci.electronics.repair
micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Dec 24 06:40AM +0100

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From: micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>
Subject: Re: Grom Audio, adding USB and Bluetooth to your car radio
Message-ID: <a01escp98drc3q5fk8rabh3941jv3vluvs@4ax.com>
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,alt.home.repair,sci.electronics.repair
micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Dec 24 06:40AM +0100

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From: micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>
Subject: Re: car antenna with serpent
Message-ID: <39hstc55tv0do41luus8dki8d1beon5okv@4ax.com>
Newsgroups: sci.electronics.repair
micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Dec 24 06:40AM +0100

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From: micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>
Subject: Re: Does a clock radio use more power in the aux mode than off mode?
Message-ID: <1kemvc15dgrllgsve1i5t1tqq4bvqpem8b@4ax.com>
Newsgroups: sci.electronics.repair
micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Dec 24 06:40AM +0100

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From: micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>
Subject: Re: Can I play MP3?
Message-ID: <8meftcdp0cjfeq8cf72f029g7k3un0eq5f@4ax.com>
Newsgroups: sci.electronics.repair
micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Dec 24 06:40AM +0100

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From: micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>
Subject: Re: How to tighten round nut on swtich?
Message-ID: <saqqvct26gg2821pbpua67q6bc4u336jdg@4ax.com>
Newsgroups: sci.electronics.repair
micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Dec 24 06:40AM +0100

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From: micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>
Subject: How do USB players keep track of position.
Message-ID: <vq4mvch5coogltn1c6r2nejr3212ki5j0c@4ax.com>
Newsgroups: sci.electronics.repair,alt.home.repair,rec.autos.tech
micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Dec 24 06:40AM +0100

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From: micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>
Subject: Re: How to tighten round nut on swtich?
Message-ID: <s8qqvcl4nq12ujdo0vu2lbdsg17c6qvugt@4ax.com>
Newsgroups: sci.electronics.repair
micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Dec 24 06:40AM +0100

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From: micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>
Subject: Re: convertiging 3.5mm to USB
Message-ID: <729otc9r6g0ag7feh2gkvvk57rv4jksrg3@4ax.com>
Newsgroups: sci.electronics.repair
micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Dec 24 06:40AM +0100

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From: micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>
Subject: Re: 12V Input current required for Inverters
Message-ID: <mhn5ucpripto6lla6o0cbjadkgcnfk5j25@4ax.com>
Newsgroups: sci.electronics.repair
micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Dec 24 06:40AM +0100

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From: micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>
Subject: Re: How to tighten round nut on swtich?
Message-ID: <41q6vclrmnd5rin0471du7hvh4u070m94u@4ax.com>
Newsgroups: sci.electronics.repair
micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Dec 24 06:40AM +0100

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From: micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>
Subject: Re: Where would a car radio find analog TV?
Message-ID: <97j5scp7rk2c1qj343m3958kjhkh8f3rik@4ax.com>
Newsgroups: sci.electronics.repair
Daniel Fynn <fynnashba@gmail.com>: Dec 23 06:38PM -0800

I have built a 555 timer monostable circuit that works fine(when pin 2, the trigger is momentary grounded the output, pin 3 goes high for about 10 seconds before going low again) but now, i need a circuit that will work the same way even when pin 2 (trigger) is held low for say 5 minutes. Meaning when pin 2 is held low for a long time, the output will go high for the same 10 seconds and then will go off. it should stay off until pin 2 is removed from ground and sent back to ground again before the output can go high again.
The circuit is for a project that has an infrared obstacle sensor as its input and operates a light when it detects a hand. What I want is even if the hand stays there for a longer time the light should go off after 10 seconds until the person removes the hand and brings it back before the light will come on.
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 25 updates in 1 topic

micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Dec 24 06:40AM +0100

Post in violation of terms-of-service cancelled by Sir Cancelot <cancelbot@eternal-september.org>
From: micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>
Subject: Re: Quality AM radio
Message-ID: <iqj2uclvsluemge21v8htud6mg16045cki@4ax.com>
Newsgroups: sci.electronics.repair
micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Dec 24 06:40AM +0100

Post in violation of terms-of-service cancelled by Sir Cancelot <cancelbot@eternal-september.org>
From: micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>
Subject: car antenna with serpent
Message-ID: <qvertc1284l81qtokhofsn5ttab40704hh@4ax.com>
Newsgroups: sci.electronics.repair
micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Dec 24 06:40AM +0100

Post in violation of terms-of-service cancelled by Sir Cancelot <cancelbot@eternal-september.org>
From: micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>
Subject: Re: Can I play MP3?
Message-ID: <7gsetc93dl8h42e3fl5ivq8e44pdbn3qkv@4ax.com>
Newsgroups: sci.electronics.repair
micky <NONONOmisc07@fmguy.com>: Dec 24 06:42AM +0100

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From: micky <NONONOmisc07@fmguy.com>
Subject: Re: learning remote can ONLY learn from IR original remote which is working well,
Message-ID: <50ahqf5e2mmf6op1r8qpfoqeo5tf7oqr4b@4ax.com>
Newsgroups: alt.home.repair,SCI.ELECTRONICS.REPAIR
micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Dec 24 06:40AM +0100

Post in violation of terms-of-service cancelled by Sir Cancelot <cancelbot@eternal-september.org>
From: micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>
Subject: Re: Grom Audio, adding USB and Bluetooth to your car radio
Message-ID: <civ6uc1st56g358dfn7h2bus61br4jsaoj@4ax.com>
Newsgroups: rec.autos.tech,alt.home.repair,sci.electronics.repair
micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Dec 24 06:40AM +0100

Post in violation of terms-of-service cancelled by Sir Cancelot <cancelbot@eternal-september.org>
From: micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>
Subject: Re: convertiging 3.5mm to USB
Message-ID: <pc3ntchmttbv1jorv0ekvfk0g2jhnrh7ti@4ax.com>
Newsgroups: sci.electronics.repair
micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Dec 24 06:40AM +0100

Post in violation of terms-of-service cancelled by Sir Cancelot <cancelbot@eternal-september.org>
From: micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>
Subject: Re: Can I play MP3?
Message-ID: <1j6dtcpgcqaanhdk40qrcso55mu96lfi61@4ax.com>
Newsgroups: sci.electronics.repair
micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Dec 24 06:40AM +0100

Post in violation of terms-of-service cancelled by Sir Cancelot <cancelbot@eternal-september.org>
From: micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>
Subject: Re: are there salvagable parts in a Sharp LCD tv
Message-ID: <brejtcps5t862d63aqjo9lvpsjuqjn55cc@4ax.com>
Newsgroups: sci.electronics.repair
micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Dec 24 06:40AM +0100

Post in violation of terms-of-service cancelled by Sir Cancelot <cancelbot@eternal-september.org>
From: micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>
Subject: Re: Quality AM radio
Message-ID: <rij2uc5gqct7dnqks1nm0qnejijbde4qb2@4ax.com>
Newsgroups: sci.electronics.repair
micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Dec 24 06:40AM +0100

Post in violation of terms-of-service cancelled by Sir Cancelot <cancelbot@eternal-september.org>
From: micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>
Subject: Re: convertiging 3.5mm to USB
Message-ID: <v5hotc9t8miubh23fc6f61giofs6kg8sqa@4ax.com>
Newsgroups: sci.electronics.repair
micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Dec 24 06:40AM +0100

Post in violation of terms-of-service cancelled by Sir Cancelot <cancelbot@eternal-september.org>
From: micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>
Subject: Re: convertiging 3.5mm to USB
Message-ID: <ci9otc5fltrv847cj9b925rlv9b2k3kkt6@4ax.com>
Newsgroups: sci.electronics.repair
micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Dec 24 06:40AM +0100

Post in violation of terms-of-service cancelled by Sir Cancelot <cancelbot@eternal-september.org>
From: micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>
Subject: How to tighten round nut on swtich?
Message-ID: <6pd2vc5lpdrjldhcphs4c85s5lkbgo337p@4ax.com>
Newsgroups: sci.electronics.repair
micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Dec 24 06:40AM +0100

Post in violation of terms-of-service cancelled by Sir Cancelot <cancelbot@eternal-september.org>
From: micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>
Subject: Re: car antenna with serpent
Message-ID: <39hstc55tv0do41luus8dki8d1beon5okv@4ax.com>
Newsgroups: sci.electronics.repair
micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Dec 24 06:40AM +0100

Post in violation of terms-of-service cancelled by Sir Cancelot <cancelbot@eternal-september.org>
From: micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>
Subject: Re: car antenna with serpent
Message-ID: <8760uc5mgprufnhk3rbqugbnm89buh8e7i@4ax.com>
Newsgroups: sci.electronics.repair
micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Dec 24 06:40AM +0100

Post in violation of terms-of-service cancelled by Sir Cancelot <cancelbot@eternal-september.org>
From: micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>
Subject: Re: Quality AM radio
Message-ID: <48f5ucl600v2fa929c7grrcm3pggoahvvc@4ax.com>
Newsgroups: sci.electronics.repair
micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Dec 24 06:40AM +0100

Post in violation of terms-of-service cancelled by Sir Cancelot <cancelbot@eternal-september.org>
From: micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>
Subject: Re: Quality AM radio
Message-ID: <lhl1ucpcc53br6e6qebr538vuv93tcr6fu@4ax.com>
Newsgroups: sci.electronics.repair
micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Dec 24 06:40AM +0100

Post in violation of terms-of-service cancelled by Sir Cancelot <cancelbot@eternal-september.org>
From: micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>
Subject: Re: Quality AM radio
Message-ID: <01dvtch9tngh7f2f8age1l8efsf1u6n90m@4ax.com>
Newsgroups: sci.electronics.repair
micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Dec 24 06:40AM +0100

Post in violation of terms-of-service cancelled by Sir Cancelot <cancelbot@eternal-september.org>
From: micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>
Subject: Re: Quality AM radio
Message-ID: <of4vtc9k8h1qgvkmt0cud0adfs1rgoh2vu@4ax.com>
Newsgroups: sci.electronics.repair
micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Dec 24 06:40AM +0100

Post in violation of terms-of-service cancelled by Sir Cancelot <cancelbot@eternal-september.org>
From: micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>
Subject: Re: convertiging 3.5mm to USB
Message-ID: <729otc9r6g0ag7feh2gkvvk57rv4jksrg3@4ax.com>
Newsgroups: sci.electronics.repair
micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Dec 24 06:40AM +0100

Post in violation of terms-of-service cancelled by Sir Cancelot <cancelbot@eternal-september.org>
From: micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>
Subject: Re: 12V Input current required for Inverters
Message-ID: <mhn5ucpripto6lla6o0cbjadkgcnfk5j25@4ax.com>
Newsgroups: sci.electronics.repair
micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Dec 24 06:40AM +0100

Post in violation of terms-of-service cancelled by Sir Cancelot <cancelbot@eternal-september.org>
From: micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>
Subject: How do USB players keep track of position.
Message-ID: <vq4mvch5coogltn1c6r2nejr3212ki5j0c@4ax.com>
Newsgroups: sci.electronics.repair,alt.home.repair,rec.autos.tech
micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Dec 24 06:40AM +0100

Post in violation of terms-of-service cancelled by Sir Cancelot <cancelbot@eternal-september.org>
From: micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>
Subject: Re: How to tighten round nut on swtich?
Message-ID: <s8qqvcl4nq12ujdo0vu2lbdsg17c6qvugt@4ax.com>
Newsgroups: sci.electronics.repair
micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Dec 24 06:40AM +0100

Post in violation of terms-of-service cancelled by Sir Cancelot <cancelbot@eternal-september.org>
From: micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>
Subject: Re: Does a clock radio use more power in the aux mode than off mode?
Message-ID: <1kemvc15dgrllgsve1i5t1tqq4bvqpem8b@4ax.com>
Newsgroups: sci.electronics.repair
micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Dec 24 06:40AM +0100

Post in violation of terms-of-service cancelled by Sir Cancelot <cancelbot@eternal-september.org>
From: micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>
Subject: Re: How to tighten round nut on swtich?
Message-ID: <goa5vc1988i82psanq0jpv2gmo3ktr7r0i@4ax.com>
Newsgroups: sci.electronics.repair
micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Dec 24 06:40AM +0100

Post in violation of terms-of-service cancelled by Sir Cancelot <cancelbot@eternal-september.org>
From: micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>
Subject: Re: How to tighten round nut on swtich?
Message-ID: <41q6vclrmnd5rin0471du7hvh4u070m94u@4ax.com>
Newsgroups: sci.electronics.repair
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