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Stephen Wolstenholme <steve@easynn.com>: Mar 31 11:49AM +0100 On Sat, 30 Mar 2019 14:57:53 +0000 (UTC), Martin Gregorie >any damage - and then had to stand there holding it while the pair of >2960s were shut down and the UPS turned off. Were you there, by any >chance?   I never worked on a BBC site. Most of my work was around Manchester. I started on a LEO3 at the town hall. Then System 4 on shifts at Norweb, NW Gas, TSB and a few other places during the night. Night calls were often a long way from Manchester. I once got a call at about 01:00 to drive to Bristol. When I got to Bristol the site was closed so I drove back to Manchester. That's about 350 miles for expenses plus 7 hours overtime at double time. That was quite a lot of money but I would have preferred to stay in bed.   Steve   -- http://www.npsnn.com

tubeguy@myshop.com: Mar 30 05:18PM -0500 On Thu, 28 Mar 2019 09:33:40 +0800, Rheilly Phoull   >I also assume you know that the ballast resistor is used to apply a >higher voltage to the coil by bridging it on start then opening the >bridge when running.   This one is NOT wired that way. The resistor is in line with the coil all the time. The tractor is a Farmall Super M. I just replaced all the low voltage wires because the old ones were cracking (dry insulation). Anyhow, it goes from battery to a simple two terminal ignition switch (push pull type). On to the resistor and to the coil/points. Thats it...   I just replaced everything in the ignition system except the switch. New low voltage wiring, the resistor, coil, points/condensor, plugs and plug wires. The stock coil that I bought says "For 6 or 12 volt systems". "Resistor must be used on 12 volt systems". These tractors were originally 6 volt. Most are converted to 12 (including mine) these days.   I assume these stock coils are 6v but work on 12v with the ballast resistor. Without it, I would think the coil would be damaged. But I like the idea of full voltage at starting. So I may try it. I'd just need to run another wire from the push type starter switch to the coil. I may give that a try. (the starter switch is a separate switch from the ign switch. It's a push buttom spring loaded contacter).   I also have to add a light to the "dash" to remind me the ignition switch is on. I know that I am supposed to turn off the ignition when the tractor is off, but if I run out of gas, by the time I get more gas, the battery is drained because I never remember to shut off that darn switch. And I imagine that is hard on the coil and points. Possibly why the old coil was weak and the old resistor was not allowing enough voltage to the coil.   After changing all these ign parts, it really runs better, but now I have to rebuild the carburetor. That thing tends to get flakey every so often. But the tractor is over 60 years old, so it was due for all new ignition parts, and a carb rebuild. Plus new fan belts are in order next. They look bad....

Sjouke Burry <burrynulnulfour@ppllaanneett.nnll>: Mar 30 08:14PM +0100 On 30-3-2019 11:36, John-Del wrote: >> having to read oldschool's postings.   >> After reading tubeguy's postings I thought it was appropriate.   > Not just oldfool's posts, but there are others here who go through Rube Goldberg lengths to solve a problem that would best be fixed by buying a new one at one half or less the cost.   What are you doing in a repair newsgroup?

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Look165 <look165@numericable.fr>: Mar 29 02:37PM +0100 I've seen no fuse in mine.   Consider the protection is outside and 16A is enough.   micky a écrit le 29/03/2019 à 14:14 :

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Mar 29 02:30PM -0700 micky wrote:       > I thought all ceramic fuses were slo-blo, but this one is embossed > F12H250 and some webpages say that F means fast-blow????   ** Ceramic fuses come in all types, fast, medium and slo- blow as well as HRC.   HRC = High Rupture Current and are found in some uW ovens.       > Nothing I read decribes why a microwave should need ceramic or slow-blo > (in the power part, not the high voltage part).   ** Ceramic fuses are specified as they do not shatter when heavily overloaded. Slow blow is needed to cope with inrush surges from the transformer, if there is one.     > " If a high voltage comes down the electrical line, the fuse element > will melt.   ** Absurd.   > 220 volt device, so that's less than 7amps normally. So, 10, right? > Unless F12 in F12H250 at the top means 12 amps? " And the home.repair > people told me it did, but the web says F means fast-blow.   ** Single plated wire "F? fuses are in fact rather slow and tolerate brief surges of say 5 times their rating.       .... Phil

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Mar 29 02:48PM -0700 Phil Allison wrote:   *Correction:   ** Single strand, plated wire "F" fuses of 10 amp raring or more are in fact rather slow and tolerate brief surges of say 5 times their rating.       .... Phil

tabbypurr@gmail.com: Mar 29 04:46PM -0700 On Friday, 29 March 2019 13:14:14 UTC, micky wrote:   > people told me it did, but the web says F means fast-blow.   > It's a Crystal, model wp900AP23, but no schematic could I find on the > web and the one taped inside just shows fuse, no details.   If it's F12H250 then you need to fit a 12A F12H250 of the same size & construction type. Fuses are more of a big deal in nukes than other appliances. Don't cut corners on them.     NT

Lucifer <LuciferMorningstar@bigpond.com>: Mar 30 08:58PM +1100 On Fri, 29 Mar 2019 16:14:10 +0300, micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com> wrote:   >To recap for the scientists: What size fuse to use in a 22V microwave:   The size would be 6 mm if there was such a thing as a 22 volt microwave.

Lucifer <LuciferMorningstar@bigpond.com>: Mar 30 09:00PM +1100 On Fri, 29 Mar 2019 14:37:03 +0100, Look165 <look165@numericable.fr> wrote:   >I've seen no fuse in mine.   >Consider the protection is outside and 16A is enough.   https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Usenet_quoting

Lucifer <LuciferMorningstar@bigpond.com>: Mar 30 09:04PM +1100 On Fri, 29 Mar 2019 14:30:10 -0700 (PDT), Phil Allison >> F12H250 and some webpages say that F means fast-blow????   >** Ceramic fuses come in all types, fast, medium and slo- blow as well as HRC.   > HRC = High Rupture Current and are found in some uW ovens.   I had a 5 volt UPS from a Data General mini computer which had a 200 amp HRC fuse.

Martin Gregorie <martin@mydomain.invalid>: Mar 30 12:02PM On Sat, 30 Mar 2019 21:04:14 +1100, Lucifer wrote:   > I had a 5 volt UPS from a Data General mini computer which had a 200 amp > HRC fuse.   Unsurprising: old computers ate power.   The CPU of 1902S mainframe I was sysadmin for in 1972 was entirely solid state (discrete transistors) and with 32 kWords (96kB equivalent) of ferrite core memory. That CPU used 20KW. Add in 6 tape decks, two disk drives, printer, cardreader and a comms multiplexor and the system consumed 40 KW when fully up and running - typical for kit in that era.     -- Martin | martin at Gregorie | gregorie dot org

Stephen Wolstenholme <steve@easynn.com>: Mar 30 01:28PM On Sat, 30 Mar 2019 12:02:20 +0000 (UTC), Martin Gregorie >ferrite core memory. That CPU used 20KW. Add in 6 tape decks, two disk >drives, printer, cardreader and a comms multiplexor and the system >consumed 40 KW when fully up and running - typical for kit in that era.   I never worked on 1902S but I worked on System 4 and the largest 2900's. The current demands were very high but generally low voltage so some engineers would work on live power supplies. Mending the 3 phase mains primary supply in the middle of the night could be dangerous. The secondary output was much lower voltage but high current. We kept an adjustable spanner that had been dropped onto the 5.6V DC supply. It was to remind some engineers of the power involved. The spanner had blown like a fuse. I can't remember the current limit but it was huge!   Steve   -- http://www.npsnn.com

Martin Gregorie <martin@mydomain.invalid>: Mar 30 02:57PM On Sat, 30 Mar 2019 13:28:35 +0000, Stephen Wolstenholme wrote:   > to remind some engineers of the power involved. > The spanner had blown like a fuse. I can't remember the current limit > but it was huge!   No System 4 for me - only 1900, 2903 (the 2900 DFC in a different orange box running microcode to emulate a 1900), and a fair bit of time at the BBC writing systems for their 2900s.   Somebody working in the computer room managed to drop a short crowbar into the BBC UPS when it had its covers off, but caught it before it did any damage - and then had to stand there holding it while the pair of 2960s were shut down and the UPS turned off. Were you there, by any chance?   -- Martin | martin at Gregorie | gregorie dot org

"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Mar 29 11:25AM -0700 Velcro.   https://www.fastenation.com/products/bundling-straps/velcro-r-brand-straps-velstrapr-with-non-slip-neoprene.html   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

jurb6006@gmail.com: Mar 29 11:29AM -0700 >" There are people that don't have any shoes and here you are complaining about what type and length of laces you should get for your boots."   There are people with no feet to put shoes on, and some without legs to put feet on.

jurb6006@gmail.com: Mar 29 11:32AM -0700 Now people who really care about their laces should learn to tie them correctly.   Forget your degree and knowledge, there is a good chance that you are to stupid to know how to tie your shoes properly.   I shit you not. here is a tutorial on the subject;   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zAFcV7zuUDA   Hope this helps }:-)>

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Mar 29 03:11PM -0700 On Fri, 29 Mar 2019 11:25:30 -0700 (PDT), "pfjw@aol.com"   >https://www.fastenation.com/products/bundling-straps/velcro-r-brand-straps-velstrapr-with-non-slip-neoprene.html   >Peter Wieck >Melrose Park, PA   That works fairly well, until the loops becomes clogged with crud or until most of the hooks are broken, or the glued or sewed on edges begin to unravel. Velco claims 20,000 cycles before it becomes unusable. My experience is maybe 1,000 cycles if the straps become dirty or is in some way abused. If you put your shoes on and off once per day, that 365 cycles per year. 2,000 cycles would be about 6 years, which is longer than my "casual" shoes tend to last. If the shoes are subject to UV exposure, nylon UV embrittlement will cause even more broken loops and hooks, thus shortening its useful life even more.   Maintaining Staying Power for Velcro ® Brand Fasteners <https://hookandloop.com/blog/maintaining-staying-power-for-velcro-brand-fasteners/>   US army dumps Velcro for buttons <https://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/worldnews/asia/afghanistan/7831702/Casualty-of-war-US-army-dumps-Velcro-for-buttons.html>     -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

Allodoxaphobia <trepidation@example.net>: Mar 30 02:21AM On Fri, 29 Mar 2019 11:15:05 -0500, amdx wrote: >> What kind of shoelaces should I use?   >> My shoes still have their original shoelaces, boots really. Now after >> I've worn them for a few years the laces are worn out and I need new ones.   <- big noise dnip ->   > There are people that don't have any shoes and here you are complaining > about what type and length of laces you should get for your boots.   .... in an electronics repair usenet newsgroup.

amdx <nojunk@knology.net>: Mar 29 09:26PM -0500 On 3/29/2019 9:21 PM, Allodoxaphobia wrote:   >> There are people that don't have any shoes and here you are complaining >> about what type and length of laces you should get for your boots.   > .... in an electronics repair usenet newsgroup.   hmm, from my point of view, many people are poor money managers. But very good consumers. My comment was tongue in cheek though.

Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Mar 29 09:53PM -0500 Terry posted this originally a few years back, as a satire of having to read oldschool's postings.   After reading tubeguy's postings I thought it was appropriate.   -- "I am a river to my people." Jeff-1.0 WA6FWi http:foxsmercantile.com

Rheilly Phoull <rheilly@bigslong.com>: Mar 30 02:35PM +0800 On 30/03/2019 10:53 am, Fox's Mercantile wrote: > Terry posted this originally a few years back, as a satire of > having to read oldschool's postings.   > After reading tubeguy's postings I thought it was appropriate.   Ahh that explains it, I was wondering about the post now I can see the reasoning!

John-Del <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Mar 30 03:36AM -0700 On Friday, March 29, 2019 at 10:53:58 PM UTC-4, Fox's Mercantile wrote: > Terry posted this originally a few years back, as a satire of > having to read oldschool's postings.   > After reading tubeguy's postings I thought it was appropriate.   Not just oldfool's posts, but there are others here who go through Rube Goldberg lengths to solve a problem that would best be fixed by buying a new one at one half or less the cost.

jurb6006@gmail.com: Mar 29 11:58AM -0700 One thing people didn't seem to notice about points is that you can't just set the gap. The proper gap changes with wear. What you want is for the points to be closed one third of the time.   The number of cylinders matters not. Look at an old time dwell meter, for an 8 cylinder it says so many degrees, but that is at a certain percent of the scale on the meter. For a 6 cylinder the dwell in degrees also hits the same spot on the meter. For a 4 cylinder, with double the degrees of dwell specified STILL needs to be at two thirds, also the same place on the meter scale.   There are a few ways to measure it accurately. The best is with a scope. Sync it to any frequency that lines up with graticule lines and make the bottom part twice as long as the top part.   Another way is to use a resistor and Zener and first take a DVM reading with the points open, just roll the engine to a spot where they are. Read that voltage, should be that of the Zener. Now start the engine and you should read ONE third of that voltage.   You will have to trial and error it to get them really right. Actually GMs had an Allen screw and a window to allow you to set the points with the engine running. The rest you have to try it over a few times. If the "on time" is too short make the gap smaller, if longer make it bigger.   In MOST cases, over the years the lobes wear down on the distributor shaft. What this means is that a smaller gap will be necessary to achieve the correct dwell (closed) time. (duty cycle actually if you want it that way) When this gets too bad, the points are not opening as far and the arcs will wear them out faster. In the old days I noticed people who had to change their points like every couple of months. The coil wasn't shorted, the ballast was fine, there weren't any fouled plugs. It was that the lobes were work down and every time those points opened and made the spark the arc was worse because the contacts wee not pulling back fast enough.   If you have that problem, say if you find the gap is only 0.008" or something and can't get a new distributor shaft then it can be machined. It takes a pretty good machine to do it, but it is not worth programming a CNC for a one off. You can get a guy to do it with NC, OR find an old timer who really knows what he is doing. I am not good enough with that to do it even when I had the machines that might. I am simply not a machinist. you cold maybe find an auto parts place that does their own machine work, they might be able to do it. Some of them though, their machine shop consists of a big belt sander. Remember how they used to mill cylinder heads ?   Not no more. The aluminum heads these days they just blue it up and lay it on a horizontal belt sander and keep on sanding it until all the bluing is gone. A place like that won't be able to do it. You need a GOOD auto machine shop for this. Racing people. Even though they don't use points anymore they should have the skill to do it. you walk in and say "I want to talk to the oldest guy in the place" and then when you get to him "Id you ever redo a distributor shaft, I just can't get one and this thing is eating points, everything else has been checked, the gap is only 0.0XX at 66% dwell.   Something like that. And don't forget, the manufacturer might surprise you and have the shaft in stock for ten bucks.

jurb6006@gmail.com: Mar 29 12:14PM -0700 >"Presumably you know ohms law, just calculate the value to give the 8 volts after starting. "   That will vary with RPM. It does not only because of more sparks per second, but with cam overlap the effective compression ratio changes. More atmosphere in there means a higher dielectric strength so it needs more firing voltage. That will change the current load on the primary and thus if not a solid voltage of course it will vary. the values they chose for the ballast kinda split the difference. That's why when you put a hot cam in a car you also beef up the ignition system to supply a higher voltage. You usually do the cam for more high end and it will still need enough firing voltage up there.   Yes, I am car people and from the old days. At my Uncle's funeral the picture of his car was bigger than the picture of him.   And that is the way he would have wanted it.   We never looked at any book to setup an engine. There was a 1957 Chevy that would pull the front wheels up in second gear, up to 110 MPH, and there was my cousin's 442 that was made into a 642 with three deuces and Edelbrock which ripped the front bolts out of the seat. Can you imagine that ? Your car is rolling down the road and you are laying down and kinda stuck... I would have liked to have a video of that but not actually be there... He lived though, it took a motorcycle to kill him. Well it was his fault I have to admit. And then there was my 1970 Toronado that ripped the asphalt up off the street, and this other car I forgot what it was exactly but I remember I bought it off of a guy named Dwayne but the title was made out to Dawne. I never got the title in my name, I had spare plates all over the place. Why bother ? When I bought it I told him "OK, just sign the title Dawne". LOL My other Uncle was a notary public and he flipped cars, alot of them. If you have more that like 12 in a year you are supposed to have a dealer's license in this state, but they didn't go in his name. People sold him a car and just signed the title, when someone bought it he just put their name on it and notarized it. Everything he touched turned to gold. And that is only a small tip of the iceberg.   So when it comes to old cars, well...

jurb6006@gmail.com: Mar 29 12:16PM -0700 OOPS ! You want the points closed TWO thirds of the time.

jurb6006@gmail.com: Mar 29 12:21PM -0700 >" I bought it off of a guy named Dwayne but the title was made out to Dawne. I never got the title in my name, I had spare plates all over the place. Why bother ? When I bought it I told him "OK, just sign the title Dawne". "   Sorry, I forgot to mention why I mentioned that. It was the car in which I got a ticket in Lakewood, Ohio for flying. Apparently they frown on that.

"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Mar 29 11:29AM -0700 As an aside, I toured the Veolia Steam Plant in Philadelphia, yesterday. This plant has been in continuous operation since it opened in 1909, and is quite a remarkable place. I got to be up-close-and-personal with the equipment, including the steam and gas turbines, the boilers, pumps, controls, switchgear, powerhouse and uplink.   Standing under the main step-up transformer (2,300 VAC to 23,000 VAC) is a truly visceral experience. Once one feels that level of "HUM", one will never mistake 60 for 120 ever again.   Relevance:   60 HZ hum suggests a bad or failing rectifier. 120 HZ hum suggests bad or failing filter caps. 50 & 100 for our Euro and Asian friends.   Amazing amount of mechanical-feedback devices in use in these plants - it seems that VFDs and great many "modern" grid-tie devices are simply not sufficiently reliable or rugged at this scale.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park

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Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Mar 29 09:07AM -0500 What kind of shoelaces should I use?   My shoes still have their original shoelaces, boots really. Now after I've worn them for a few years the laces are worn out and I need new ones.   I would like to find the exact laces but they are no longer made. The originals were made of catgut and of course getting catgut laces would be tough now. I could try and find NOS catgut laces, but I don't really have good internet access unless I go to Caribou, and the coffee is sooooo expensive there. And apparently sattelite internet doesn't work in my sky. So I get my access over telegraph lines, via Morse Code, and it's really slow. I thought you guys might be able to tell me where to find NOS catgut laces. I don't want the cheap Chinese catgut. I want good old 'Merican catgut. If I can't find catgut, what else should I try? What about length? If I can't find the exact length, should I get longer or shorter laces? Longer might mean tripping over them, but I could at least double knot them. Shorter might make them hard to tie.   I don't like fabric laces because they don't look right in old boots. Maybe I could find leather laces. Maybe I should try to re-stuff my old cagut laces with new fabric inside. I don't think I trust fabric laces anyway, how do I know they aren't really just string painted to look like fabric? And is leather really any different than catgut? What is the failure mode for catgut laces anyway? Has it got something to do with animal rights? How can I tell when my laces are worn out? Do they have to break? Or is just fraying enough to call them bad? What if they are just thin in spots? How thin do they have to get before I know they are bad? I tried to ohm them out but, but my meter just keeps telling me "---" which I guess means 0 ohms, they must be shorted. I'll add a resistor when I re-install.   If only one lace is worn out, should I replace both? What is this google thing of which you speak?   I'm thinking of adding aglets to my laces. Those little things that go on the end of them and keep them from fraying. I could just buy laces with aglets, but that would be too simple. I think I'll make my own out of Jello pudding and sawdust. Can anyone point me to an article explaining how? Text only please.   How do you remove old laces anyway? Everytime I try, they get all tangled in knots. And don't even THINK about putting them back in, that could be a nightmare. Does anyone have a boot stringing diagram? Make sure it's READABLE, so when I go to 7-11 to print it out, it's legible. What's a PDF?   I plan to use PAM to help re-install the laces. It not only lubricates them, but they'll smell like butter and the dogs in the neighborhood will all love me.   Thank you Terry.   -- "I am a river to my people." Jeff-1.0 WA6FWi http:foxsmercantile.com

John-Del <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Mar 29 08:08AM -0700 On Friday, March 29, 2019 at 10:07:28 AM UTC-4, Fox's Mercantile wrote: > Jeff-1.0 > WA6FWi > http:foxsmercantile.com     I would suggest ebay to find an NOS set for a lot less than you can engineer a poor copy, but I know how adverse you are to all those scammers reside there...

John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Mar 29 08:22AM -0700 On 2019/03/29 7:07 a.m., Fox's Mercantile wrote: > What kind of shoelaces should I use?   Couldn't you have waited two days?   John ;-#)#

amdx <nojunk@knology.net>: Mar 29 11:15AM -0500 On 3/29/2019 9:07 AM, Fox's Mercantile wrote: > them, but they'll smell like butter and the dogs in the neighborhood > will all love me.   > Thank you Terry.   There are people that don't have any shoes and here you are complaining about what type and length of laces you should get for your boots. Life is tough! :-) This is called a first world problem.

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Mar 29 09:37AM -0700 On Fri, 29 Mar 2019 09:07:19 -0500, Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net> wrote:   >What kind of shoelaces should I use?   Sew your own. I've never done it but there are instructions on the internet for sewing your own shoelaces: <https://www.google.com/search?q=sew+your+own+shoelaces> <https://www.google.com/search?q=sew+your+own+shoelaces&tbm=isch> The trick seems to be to find a material that has enough surface friction to not untie half way through the day, and also not turn into the impossible to untie Gordian Knot if you double knot the bow. The commercial shoelaces seem to have that part figured out, at least for the cloth shoelaces.   -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Mar 29 04:14PM +0300 To recap for the scientists: What size fuse to use in a 22V microwave:   In alt.home.repair, on Thu, 28 Mar 2019 19:07:29 -0500, Dean Hoffman   > I suspect that was tongue in cheek. If not, fuses fail just >like everything else involving humans. I've changed a lot of them over the years >without having to do anything else.   LOL. I wasn't living here when it broke; I don't know what they did to it.   By the same token, I'm leaving and I wanted to either put in the right fuse or leave a note inside the case for the new owner (my roommate already bought a replacement and they plan to put this one in the lobby for someone to take.)   The second store I called had it, even 12 amps, not just 10, but as I expected, only fast-blow. The original was ceramic.   I thought all ceramic fuses were slo-blo, but this one is embossed F12H250 and some webpages say that F means fast-blow???? "The types of fuses include long-time-lag or super-time-lag (TT), fast-acting fuses (FF), quick-blow fuses (F) and slow-blow or time-lag fuses (T)" https://www.hunker.com/13418825/difference-between-ceramic-glass-fuses   Nothing I read decribes why a microwave should need ceramic or slow-blo (in the power part, not the high voltage part).   One page says " Glass has a low rupturing point, such as 15 amperes."   That's fine since it's a 12 amp fuse, and the normal usage is about 7 amps.   " If a high voltage comes down the electrical line, the fuse element will melt.   Are there really surges that come down the line that increase the amperage for normally 7 to over 12?   "The tiny glass fuses are great for small items that don't draw a heavy amount of current and blow on a regular basis. They don't perform well outdoors and can shatter when placed in high temperatures due to its low thermal stability."   Microwave is not used outdoors or at high temperatures.     From before According to the label on the back "The input is 1400 watts, but it's a 220 volt device, so that's less than 7amps normally. So, 10, right? Unless F12 in F12H250 at the top means 12 amps? " And the home.repair people told me it did, but the web says F means fast-blow.   It's a Crystal, model wp900AP23, but no schematic could I find on the web and the one taped inside just shows fuse, no details.

Look165 <look165@numericable.fr>: Mar 29 02:37PM +0100 I've seen no fuse in mine.   Consider the protection is outside and 16A is enough.   micky a écrit le 29/03/2019 à 14:14 :

Rheilly Phoull <rheilly@bigslong.com>: Mar 29 01:30PM +0800 On 28/03/2019 8:07 pm, John-Del wrote:   > Back in the 70s, I wired a momentary switch across the ballast resistor of my car and mounted it on the throttle shaft of my carb. At full throttle the switch bypassed the resistor.   > Between that and turning the air cleaner cover over, the car broke the sound barrier...   > Seriously, it did seem to help at high rpm though.   Hmm, the thought of Mr Tubeguy doing rooster tails on the tractor would be a sight you dont see every day.

ggherold@gmail.com: Mar 29 06:08AM -0700 > Kind of makes me wonder if this resistor needs replacement?   > (The sparkplug wires were replaced about 2 years ago, so they should be > fine, since I dont use the tractor all that much).   Sounds like a question for yesterdays tractor forum https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cgi-bin/boards.cgi   George H.

David Farber <farberbear.unspam@aol.com>: Mar 28 01:11PM -0700 On 3/27/2019 10:48 AM, Adrian Caspersz wrote:   > https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9wwlUNWeVo5smMdOMhcHA6pq6LscB5WMLw2I-IhSVVdhH3GDGO004-htuc9lMnLHl2EVM9MyKRH5HFbXUf0gTN_a3_X1CP3D_fDYqfey-kDn_fzqbCjRiV0PnhNnwn14Ci-TR9f4DRGo/s1600/Dell+5110.JPG   > G2101 is down to the right of G2201 as indicated. You don't want to mess > with G2201, that's something else.   Hi Adrian,   Your above link to the picture of the G2201 location is correct. Please note that it's on the opposite side of the motherboard where the CMOS battery lives. After performing the reset, I went into the BIOS setup menu and set the time and date. Since then, the displayed time is now accurate even after being powered off and then powered back on again. This just goes to show you that removing the CMOS battery does not necessarily reset whatever it was that needed resetting. (At least for this computer)   Thanks to everyone for all your fantastic support!!!   -- David Farber Los Osos, CA

John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Mar 28 09:20AM -0700 On 2019/03/28 5:04 a.m., John-Del wrote:   > LOL! You're a twit Jeff, but the kind of twit I love!!   > Actually, his statement is far more clumsy when written. When said out-loud, it's not nearly as confusing (although admittedly still incorrect). Said out loud, it might sound like two sentences - one a statement, and the other a question asked after considering the statement part.   > Funny stuff though.   Jeeze, I put a comma where it doesn't belong and get a holy !@#$ storm!   (ducking).   Opps!   John ;-#)#

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tabbypurr@gmail.com: Mar 27 09:56AM -0700 > > A simple nonsequitur. You might not wish to do a minor repair to save $100-400, but some do. And sometimes getting an oven that fits a certain space can be tricky, repairing is then much quicker.   > OK - let's cut to the chase:   > a) Combination Microwave Ovens are much like BMW cars. Wannabes. As a BMW wannabe a Porsche or Wannabe a Mercedes, but does neither as well, a combination microwave does neither function as well as a dedicated oven. That is not to suggest that a BMW is not a well-made vehicle, but that it is neither a Porsche nor a Mercedes.   Firstly that's total rubbish. They also do what a separate nuke & oven never can, even if you don't know how they work. Second, your opinion on other people's appliance buying decisions really has nothing to do with whether they're better repaired or chucked. 3rd there is nowhere here you can go to buy a used combi cooker, they're seldom sold used, so there is no quick cheap availability.     > b) "For a certain space" - Fitting a function to a specific device has consequences, and in the case of a failure, not good ones. And, for the record, when it comes to a kitchen, aesthetics will ALWAYS defer to function, cleanliness and good light on our house. It is entirely possible to have both, but built-in devices are difficult to service, often difficult to replace quickly - as in on the Wednesday before Thanksgiving, or Christmas Eve.   too much waffle, a little nonsense. One of the reasons some buyers get combis is lack of enough space for separate appliances. In those cases they're often fitted appliances, making getting a replacment harder & more expensive than a simple new buy.     > c) Quicker - sure. If the parts are in hand and/or the problem is simple. If not, I could have a new *insert appliance here* installed in our house within 24 hours at the outside, and if on a non-holiday before 8:00 pm, within 2 hours.   again what do your appliance buying policies have to do with others' choices?     > d) Waste and Landfill - metal parts, appliances and such in this region go to Acelor-Mittal in Coatesville, PA, where they are shredded, materials separated, then become new steel in the oldest continuously operating steel mill in the United States - over 206 years.   Guess what, most of the world is not in PA, and most of the world does not run according to US practices.     NT

Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Mar 27 03:12PM -0500 > again what do your appliance buying policies have to do with others' choices?   What makes your opinion more valid than his?   -- "I am a river to my people." Jeff-1.0 WA6FWi http:foxsmercantile.com

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Mar 27 05:36PM -0700 >> Please remember that you have only one life to give to your hobby or >> profession.   >Which part of a microwave is even capable of explosion?   It's difficult to tell from the article, which offers several theories. The first paragraph suggests that microwave exploded, giving him a shock. The fifth paragraph suggests that he was electrocuted. Forensic investigators are still investigating. The usual online expert claimed "The high-voltage microwave oven may have charged something intentionally left inside and caused the explosion" which I presume means he left a hand grenade in the oven while preparing the popcorn. Another suggested that he was murdered by his wife and then blamed the microwave. For all I know, it could have been the vacuum cleaners fault.   I prefer to believe that he was killed by the popcorn. Popcorn is normally quite safe prepared in a microwave oven, as long as each kernel pops at a different time. However, if all the kernels were to pop at exactly the same time, they might produce a steam explosion. Statistically, that's very unlikely, but still possible.   This is what happens when I cooked a yam for 16 minutes instead of 6 minutes: <http://www.learnbydestroying.com/jeffl/pics/drivel/slides/burned-yam.html> There was no explosion, but there was plenty of fire, smoke, and stench. When I opened the door, the inside of the yam was glowing dull red.   Why do microwaves explode? <https://www.quora.com/Why-do-microwaves-explode>   >And how would said explosion result in electrocution?   Good questions. I don't have an answer. Explosive disassembly normally disconnects the wires that might present an electrocution hazard. In this situation, explosive assembly (with burns) is very unlikely.   -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

tabbypurr@gmail.com: Mar 27 05:49PM -0700 On Wednesday, 27 March 2019 20:12:43 UTC, Fox's Mercantile wrote: > On 3/27/19 11:56 AM, tabbypurr wrote:   > > again what do your appliance buying policies have to do with others' choices?   > What makes your opinion more valid than his?   ookay. I'm done here.

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Mar 27 05:52PM -0700 On Tue, 26 Mar 2019 12:33:45 -0700 (PDT), "pfjw@aol.com"   >... there is no reason on this planet to attempt to repair >such a device...   Waving money at me is usually sufficient reason.   I've only repaired a few microwave ovens. Maybe 10 or so. Most of the repairs were inspired by the owner having purchased a microwave oven that was built into a kitchen cabinet, RV cabinet, or was in some way unique (i.e. smart kitchen with remote controls). All of them were quite old. Amazingly, I was able to find old stock parts, but at the usual exorbitant prices. I charged far more for the repair than the cost of a new microwave oven. None of the owners complained about the price.   Incidentally, one of these oven repairs had a few broken plastic parts. I had a machine shop make one from my drawings. It was NOT cheap. Today, I might try a 3D printing service for appliance parts: <https://3dprint.com/138241/happy-3d-replacement-parts/> <https://www.yeggi.com/q/appliance+parts/> etc...     -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Mar 27 06:13PM -0700 On 2019/03/27 5:36 p.m., Jeff Liebermann wrote: > On Tue, 26 Mar 2019 07:25:30 -0700 (PDT), tabbypurr@gmail.com wrote:   >> On Monday, 25 March 2019 20:08:42 UTC, Jeff Liebermann wrote:   >>> If the microwave oven doesn't kill you, perhaps the popcorn will? ... > There was no explosion, but there was plenty of fire, smoke, and > stench. When I opened the door, the inside of the yam was glowing > dull red.   You aren't married, are you Jeff?   If you are then she is a gem if she lets you blow stuff up in the kitchen!   John ;-#)#

Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Mar 27 08:16PM -0500 >>> again what do your appliance buying policies have to do with others' choices?   >> What makes your opinion more valid than his?   > ookay. I'm done here.   Good.   -- "I am a river to my people." Jeff-1.0 WA6FWi http:foxsmercantile.com

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Mar 27 07:43PM -0700 On Wed, 27 Mar 2019 18:13:55 -0700, John Robertson <spam@flippers.com> wrote:   >> stench. When I opened the door, the inside of the yam was glowing >> dull red.   >You aren't married, are you Jeff?   Yes, I are not married, and yes, I are Jeff. (Please don't ask a negative question, and then append a positive question. It's rather confusing): <https://theweek.com/articles/451975/problem-positive-answers-negative-questions>   Most of the women I invite to my lair initially look around in silent shock, and then ask "You live like this"? I've discovered over the years that this means that they are calculating if it possible to domesticate me. The answer is usually clear when they discover two refrigerators in the kitchen. A small one for food, and a larger one for chemicals, batteries, and emergency supplies. Punching 16 minutes into the microwave oven timer instead of 6 minutes is a much lesser crime.   >If you are then she is a gem if she lets you blow stuff up in the kitchen!   It didn't explode. I just shot flaming "guts of yam" all over the oven walls, filled the kitchen with smoke, set off the smoke alarm, and smelled rather awful for about a month. The painted (or possibly powder coated) white interior of the Panasonic inverter oven was badly stained orange by the yam smoke. None of the common kitchen chemicals would remove the stains. I decided that toxic chemicals in the microwave was a bad idea, so I resorted to small right angle buffer and some abrasive grit. That was sufficient to make the oven presentable. However, I had to tear it apart to clean the ducting, where the common kitchen cleaners were functional.   -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

John-Del <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Mar 28 05:04AM -0700 On Wednesday, March 27, 2019 at 10:43:41 PM UTC-4, Jeff Liebermann wrote:     > Yes, I are not married, and yes, I are Jeff. (Please don't ask a > negative question, and then append a positive question. It's rather > confusing):   LOL! You're a twit Jeff, but the kind of twit I love!!   Actually, his statement is far more clumsy when written. When said out-loud, it's not nearly as confusing (although admittedly still incorrect). Said out loud, it might sound like two sentences - one a statement, and the other a question asked after considering the statement part.   Funny stuff though.

John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Mar 28 09:20AM -0700 On 2019/03/28 5:04 a.m., John-Del wrote:   > LOL! You're a twit Jeff, but the kind of twit I love!!   > Actually, his statement is far more clumsy when written. When said out-loud, it's not nearly as confusing (although admittedly still incorrect). Said out loud, it might sound like two sentences - one a statement, and the other a question asked after considering the statement part.   > Funny stuff though.   Jeeze, I put a comma where it doesn't belong and get a holy !@#$ storm!   (ducking).   Opps!   John ;-#)#

tubeguy@myshop.com: Mar 27 05:20PM -0500 Does anyone know the correct resistance of the ballast Resistor on old Points ignition? I have an old Farmall M tractor. That resistor (which is a large ceramic power resistor), only measures 3 or 4 ohms   I was expecting it to be at least 100 ohms, if not 500 or 1k. I measured this with nothing connected to it, using an analog multimeter.   This resistor is between ignition switch and the ignition coil and points. It drops the 12volts to about 6 volts. Some information I got about this tractor says the voltage should be about 8 volts after the resistor. I dont know how much tolerance is allowed, but I'd rather see a higher spark plug voltage than a lower one.   The tractor now runs, after it failed due to what appears to have been a bad condensor (capacitor). But it runs rough after replacing the points, condensor, plugs, dist cap and rotor. The spark on a test sparkplug seems kind of weak to me.....   Kind of makes me wonder if this resistor needs replacement?   (The sparkplug wires were replaced about 2 years ago, so they should be fine, since I dont use the tractor all that much).

Rheilly Phoull <rheilly@bigslong.com>: Mar 28 08:23AM +0800 > Kind of makes me wonder if this resistor needs replacement?   > (The sparkplug wires were replaced about 2 years ago, so they should be > fine, since I dont use the tractor all that much).   Presumably you know ohms law, just calculate the value to give the 8 volts after starting.

tabbypurr@gmail.com: Mar 27 05:47PM -0700 > Kind of makes me wonder if this resistor needs replacement?   > (The sparkplug wires were replaced about 2 years ago, so they should be > fine, since I dont use the tractor all that much).   A few ohms is about right. It would never work with 1k.     NT

Rheilly Phoull <rheilly@bigslong.com>: Mar 28 09:33AM +0800 On 28/03/2019 8:23 am, Rheilly Phoull wrote: >> fine, since I dont use the tractor all that much).   > Presumably you know ohms law, just calculate the value to give the 8 > volts after starting.   I also assume you know that the ballast resistor is used to apply a higher voltage to the coil by bridging it on start then opening the bridge when running.

"Dave M" <dgminala@mediacombb.net>: Mar 27 09:47PM -0500 Rheilly Phoull wrote:   > I also assume you know that the ballast resistor is used to apply a > higher voltage to the coil by bridging it on start then opening the > bridge when running.     That is correct. The resistor is removed from the circuit while cranking so the engine gets a hotter spark. The reason? Because while cranking, the starter takes a huge amount of current from the battery, lowering the available voltage to the coil. Removing the resistor from the circuit gives more voltage (and current) to the coil, helping the engine start. After the engine starts running, the starter is no longer activated, removing the huge current drain on the battery, raising its available voltage. Then the resistor is inserted into the circuit in order to reduce the current through the points, thereby reducing arcing, which can eat up the contacts rather quickly with high current. That's also the purpose of the condenser... to help reduce arcing across the points.   Cheers!! Dave M

John-Del <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Mar 28 05:07AM -0700 On Wednesday, March 27, 2019 at 9:33:46 PM UTC-4, Rheilly Phoull wrote:   > I also assume you know that the ballast resistor is used to apply a > higher voltage to the coil by bridging it on start then opening the > bridge when running.   Back in the 70s, I wired a momentary switch across the ballast resistor of my car and mounted it on the throttle shaft of my carb. At full throttle the switch bypassed the resistor.   Between that and turning the air cleaner cover over, the car broke the sound barrier...   Seriously, it did seem to help at high rpm though.

"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Mar 28 05:44AM -0700 This is NOT complicated.   a) The value is about 1.4 ohms for a 12-volt (nominal) system. b) 1.6 ohms is usually suggested for a 6-volt system (some older VWs and tractors). But that same 1.4 ohm device will work fine. c) They carry A LOT of current, and so are usually ceramic devices with substantial connectors. d) They may be purchased for as little as ~$5 + tax for a generic device that may fit to as much as $20 + tax for a name-brand device that will actually fit. e) They are still stock items in most auto-supply stores and dealerships.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

bruce2bowser@gmail.com: Mar 27 02:42PM -0700 On Saturday, February 2, 2019 at 5:29:05 PM UTC-5, Fox's Mercantile wrote: > > They're like 3 bucks shipped and come with the adhesive > > already applied.   > Because sci.electronics.repair is all about doing it the hard way.   That reminds me of the old Michael J. Fox and James Woods movie: "The Hard Way" (1991), ha ha.

Adrian Caspersz <email@here.invalid>: Mar 27 05:36PM On 26/03/2019 21:21, David Farber wrote:     > By the way, how is it the computer keeps perfect time once the time is > set and the power remains on? Shouldn't the time shown in the BIOS setup > screen begin to advance too once it's powered on?   The RTC is only read once on startup of the operating system, which then maintains the increment of it's own internal counter. There is no 'write-back' if current OS time settings are left alone by the user.   The BIOS time itself not incrementing is the fault, I reckon the chipset has got itself into a funny state and needs a reset which you haven't yet done. I'd try finding the G2101 link I mentioned.   Interestingly, the ACER ASPIRE V5 471 has the same labelled jumper, similar circuit (same original manufacturer) - and googling that "G2101", it looks a known reset method for locked BIOS etc. That Acer motherboard visually looks different, but the G2101 triangular pads were located under the DIMM sockets. Maybe Dell is in a similar location.     -- Adrian C

Adrian Caspersz <email@here.invalid>: Mar 27 05:48PM On 27/03/2019 17:36, Adrian Caspersz wrote:   > "G2101", it looks a known reset method for locked BIOS etc. That Acer > motherboard visually looks different, but the G2101 triangular pads were > located under the DIMM sockets. Maybe Dell is in a similar location.   https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9wwlUNWeVo5smMdOMhcHA6pq6LscB5WMLw2I-IhSVVdhH3GDGO004-htuc9lMnLHl2EVM9MyKRH5HFbXUf0gTN_a3_X1CP3D_fDYqfey-kDn_fzqbCjRiV0PnhNnwn14Ci-TR9f4DRGo/s1600/Dell+5110.JPG   G2101 is down to the right of G2201 as indicated. You don't want to mess with G2201, that's something else.   -- Adrian C

David Farber <farberbear.unspam@aol.com>: Mar 27 09:06AM -0700 On 3/26/2019 10:49 PM, whit3rd wrote:   > and the crystal would be X2101 and its associated components, R2101, C2101, C2102, > depicted on 'sheet 21 of 108' (see the label on lower left page corners) and connected > to pins A20 and C20 of the 'Cougar Point' big integrated circuit.   On page 99 of the schematic you can see the CMOS battery output labeled as RTC_AUX_S5. I did a text search for that and it took me to page 27 which shows VBACKUP. There are two partial circuits there. One appears to be for the CMOS battery backup and the other one, 3D3V_AUX_KBC, appears to be the backup power supplied when the unit is turned on. Both of these circuits point to EC GPIO72. Regarding the RTC_AUX_S5 diagram, there's an orange ellipse around the specifications for a resistor. It says 10mW 0R0402-PAD-2-GP. Might that be a fusible link? Also, I see the words "stuff" and "un-stuff" appearing frequently in the schematic. Are those synonyms for install and remove?   Thanks for your reply. -- David Farber Los Osos, CA

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