- What size fuse? - 1 Update
- Resistance of Ballast Resistor on old Points ignition - 1 Update
- It's that time again. - 1 Update
| Stephen Wolstenholme <steve@easynn.com>: Mar 31 11:49AM +0100 On Sat, 30 Mar 2019 14:57:53 +0000 (UTC), Martin Gregorie >any damage - and then had to stand there holding it while the pair of >2960s were shut down and the UPS turned off. Were you there, by any >chance? I never worked on a BBC site. Most of my work was around Manchester. I started on a LEO3 at the town hall. Then System 4 on shifts at Norweb, NW Gas, TSB and a few other places during the night. Night calls were often a long way from Manchester. I once got a call at about 01:00 to drive to Bristol. When I got to Bristol the site was closed so I drove back to Manchester. That's about 350 miles for expenses plus 7 hours overtime at double time. That was quite a lot of money but I would have preferred to stay in bed. Steve -- http://www.npsnn.com |
| tubeguy@myshop.com: Mar 30 05:18PM -0500 On Thu, 28 Mar 2019 09:33:40 +0800, Rheilly Phoull >I also assume you know that the ballast resistor is used to apply a >higher voltage to the coil by bridging it on start then opening the >bridge when running. This one is NOT wired that way. The resistor is in line with the coil all the time. The tractor is a Farmall Super M. I just replaced all the low voltage wires because the old ones were cracking (dry insulation). Anyhow, it goes from battery to a simple two terminal ignition switch (push pull type). On to the resistor and to the coil/points. Thats it... I just replaced everything in the ignition system except the switch. New low voltage wiring, the resistor, coil, points/condensor, plugs and plug wires. The stock coil that I bought says "For 6 or 12 volt systems". "Resistor must be used on 12 volt systems". These tractors were originally 6 volt. Most are converted to 12 (including mine) these days. I assume these stock coils are 6v but work on 12v with the ballast resistor. Without it, I would think the coil would be damaged. But I like the idea of full voltage at starting. So I may try it. I'd just need to run another wire from the push type starter switch to the coil. I may give that a try. (the starter switch is a separate switch from the ign switch. It's a push buttom spring loaded contacter). I also have to add a light to the "dash" to remind me the ignition switch is on. I know that I am supposed to turn off the ignition when the tractor is off, but if I run out of gas, by the time I get more gas, the battery is drained because I never remember to shut off that darn switch. And I imagine that is hard on the coil and points. Possibly why the old coil was weak and the old resistor was not allowing enough voltage to the coil. After changing all these ign parts, it really runs better, but now I have to rebuild the carburetor. That thing tends to get flakey every so often. But the tractor is over 60 years old, so it was due for all new ignition parts, and a carb rebuild. Plus new fan belts are in order next. They look bad.... |
| Sjouke Burry <burrynulnulfour@ppllaanneett.nnll>: Mar 30 08:14PM +0100 On 30-3-2019 11:36, John-Del wrote: >> having to read oldschool's postings. >> After reading tubeguy's postings I thought it was appropriate. > Not just oldfool's posts, but there are others here who go through Rube Goldberg lengths to solve a problem that would best be fixed by buying a new one at one half or less the cost. What are you doing in a repair newsgroup? |
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