Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 23 updates in 2 topics

"Carlos E.R." <robin_listas@es.invalid>: Mar 30 07:17PM +0200

On 2018-03-30 17:06, Frank Slootweg wrote:
 
>> I simply do not like to pay and
>> my ISP does no longer provide nntp.
 
> Huh? Aren't you using the pay-server News.Individual.[NET|DE]? :
 
Now it is, but it wasn't a year ago :-)
 
My system may still use aioe if the primary server fails. When using
leafnode one has a primary server and may have several others as
secondaries.
 
 
You could use a scoring system: if the posting server is a free one, add
some points. But you need other clues to add points to assure certainty.
For instance, that it is a new name, that it talks a certain way, has
some traits... ;-)
 
 
My issue is with thinking that a poster using aioe alone meaning he is a
troll or spammer.
 
--
Cheers, Carlos.
Frank Slootweg <this@ddress.is.invalid>: Mar 30 05:53PM

> >> my ISP does no longer provide nntp.
 
> > Huh? Aren't you using the pay-server News.Individual.[NET|DE]? :
 
> Now it is, but it wasn't a year ago :-)
 
I see.
 
> My system may still use aioe if the primary server fails. When using
> leafnode one has a primary server and may have several others as
> secondaries.
 
NIN failing!? Can't happen! :-) But seriously, I can also use multiple
servers as I have Hamster on my system, i.e. a local, private News
server on Windows, much like leafnode on UNIX/Linux.
 
> some traits... ;-)
 
> My issue is with thinking that a poster using aioe alone meaning he is a
> troll or spammer.
 
Yeah, I agree. Same thing as people ruling out posters using Google
Groups (or posters using Linux! :-)).
Joerg Lorenz <hugybear@gmx.ch>: Mar 30 08:30PM +0200

Am 30.03.18 um 13:56 schrieb Carlos E.R.:
> Well, I have been using news.aioe.org and freenews.netfront.net for a
> long time, and I'm certainly no troll. I simply do not like to pay and
> my ISP does no longer provide nntp.
 
Free and anonymous are not the same. And I did not say all useres of
these servers are trolls but almost all trolls use these servers.
 
A free server but not anonymous would be the following:
 
https://www.eternal-september.org/?language=en&showpage=home
 
> Thus I make nothing of using a free server.
 
That's why I had to put you on my "troll server"-exception list to be
able to read you.
 
Joerg
Joerg Lorenz <hugybear@gmx.ch>: Mar 30 08:37PM +0200

Am 30.03.18 um 19:17 schrieb Carlos E.R.:
> My issue is with thinking that a poster using aioe alone meaning he is a
> troll or spammer.
 
Nobody said anything like that.
 
I use more than one server as well but no anonymous servers.
 
news-out.google.com
news.netfront.net and
aioe.org
 
are responsible for a vast majority of troll postings in the usenet.
 
Joerg
Tekkie® <Tekkie@comcast.net>: Mar 30 04:21PM -0400

micky posted for all of us...
 
 
> >gave us a small lump of it, but it's too good to use :-)
 
> We still have paper towels used to wipe car windows without smearing
> that a gas station gave my mother in 1962, They are too good to use.
 
Are they two ply? Pink on one side and blue on the other?
 
--
Tekkie
Ragnusen Ultred <rragnusen@ultred.com>: Mar 30 01:54PM -0700

Am Fri, 30 Mar 2018 20:37:59 +0200, schrieb Joerg Lorenz:
 
> aioe.org
 
> are responsible for a vast majority of troll postings in the usenet.
 
> Joerg
 
I've been on the Usenet for decades, where I've interacted with the poster
Joerg Lorenz quite a few times, where he has often proven he has the
stunted mental acuity of a child.
 
I only speak facts.
 
Hear me out, as I present the facts, where this Joerg /never/ adds
technical on-topic value to /any/ thread he posts to.
 
All he does is call everyone else a troll.
 
And what does he base his accusations upon?
 
He thinks that the mere fact that someone wants privacy means they're a
troll.
 
I've told him already, in other newsgroups where he trolls his accusations
left and right, that this is like saying all Blacks are criminals, simply
because they're black, all Italians are in the mob, simply because the mob
is comprised of a lot of Italians, all Jews are greedy simply because some
greedy people are Jews, all Germans are racist simply because some Germans
have committed hate crimes, etc.
 
What Joerg fails to understand is that a troll has to troll to be
considered a troll. That simple fact is compltely lost on Joerg, and he'll
never get it - simply because of two facts he's proven time and again.
 
1. He can't add technical on-topic value to /any/ thread topic, and,
2. He considers anyone wanting privacy to be a troll,
(where he's the troll, in actuality).
 
Want proof?
 
This is Joerg's 1st response to an on-topic question in a newsgroup:
"[I have no answer to the question]
I only know the idiot who wants to know it ..."
<https://groups.google.com/d/msg/comp.mobile.android/sgzGVamjKU0/bWXHKhH3AAAJ>
Q: Is it on topic? (Answer = ?)
Q: Does it add value? (Answer = ?)
Q: Is it something the mind of a child would say? (Answer = ?)
 
This is Joerg's 2nd response when responded to by an adult:
"Only anonymous *idiots* are using anonymous news-servers.
Your header: Path: eternal-september.org!reader02.eternal-september.org!feeder.eternal-september.org!aioe.org!.POSTED!not-for-mail
<https://groups.google.com/d/msg/comp.mobile.android/sgzGVamjKU0/xj2X4Wn9AAAJ>
 
This is Joerg's 3rd response when headers were explained to him:
"you are simply a big mouth. "
<https://groups.google.com/d/msg/comp.mobile.android/sgzGVamjKU0/UmK7yflFAQAJ>
 
Joerg's 4th response responding to the proven troll, Frank Slootweg:
"+1"
<https://groups.google.com/d/msg/comp.mobile.android/sgzGVamjKU0/AmUPwr5ZAQAJ>
 
I can go on proving two points but this should be sufficient for adults:
1. Joerg never adds on-topic technical value to any thread, and,
2. Joerg calls everyone else a troll simply because they desire privacy.
 
The adults on this newsgroup don't have to believe me ... where all I ask
is for them to ponder whether those verifiable facts above of about a half
dozen posts plus another half dozen responses trying to explain facts to
Joerg Lorenz (all wasted effort, by the way), added /any/ on-topic
technical value to the thread?
 
So that I'm not guilty of the same childish games that Joerg plays, I've
already proven two points, where I want to once more tell Joerg the
on-topic technical admonition that simply wanting privacy does not make a
person a troll.
 
In fact, Joerg clearly is guilty of exactly what he accuses everyone else
of being, simply because his posts /never/ add any on-topic value to any
thread.
 
Just watch...
"Carlos E.R." <robin_listas@es.invalid>: Mar 30 11:24PM +0200

On 2018-03-30 22:54, Ragnusen Ultred wrote:
 
>> are responsible for a vast majority of troll postings in the usenet.
 
>> Joerg
 
> I've been on the Usenet for decades,
 
No, you haven't. The name Ragnusen Ultred appeared recently.
 
What, you used different names changing them frequently? Well, that
defines you as a not reliable Internet person. A troll.
 
Not reading the rest. EOD.
 
--
Cheers, Carlos.
Ragnusen Ultred <rragnusen@ultred.com>: Mar 30 02:29PM -0700

Am Fri, 30 Mar 2018 23:24:00 +0200, schrieb Carlos E.R.:
 
 
> What, you used different names changing them frequently? Well, that
> defines you as a not reliable Internet person. A troll.
 
> Not reading the rest. EOD.
 
Hi Carlos,
 
Think about how much on-topic technical value your post added.
Was it zero?
 
Think about privacy?
Do you understand privacy?
 
We all know the answer to both questions, if asked of an adult.
 
I posit, therefore, that your logic is that of a child.
 
This appears to be your logic:
A. Because someone desires privacy,
B. Then they are a troll.
 
I simply posit that is not the logic of an adult.
In fact, I posit that your post is a troll.
 
Hence, I posit, you just acted just like a troll acts in that your post
added zero on-topic technical value to the thread.
"Ron D." <ron.dozier@gmail.com>: Mar 30 02:43PM -0700

A spring will work nicely, I think. Been using one on mom's nebulizer hose for a while now. I had an easy way to attach the end (small hole). It's kept the hose from kinking. I got one that was a few feet long and cut it.
Tim <onelydad58@gmail.com>: Mar 30 09:45PM

=?iso-8859-15?Q?Tekkie=AE?= <Tekkie@comcast.net> wrote in
>> that a gas station gave my mother in 1962, They are too good to
>> use.
 
> Are they two ply? Pink on one side and blue on the other?
 
Actually, I just make sure that the USB cables I buy have good built-in
strain reliefs.
 
If you are really serious about making your own, there is tape that you
can buy that is impregnated with resin. One version sets by itself the
package is opened. One uses water to activate setting, and one uses UV to
set the resin. And thee is also the self-adhering/fusing tape that
basically melts together when it is wrapped under tension. Take your
pick.
83LowRider <none@none.com>: Mar 30 05:52PM -0400

On 3/29/2018 11:22 PM, Erholt Rhein wrote:
 
> thing!
 
> Now I have to root through the trash to find all those Bic click pens I've
> thrown away over the years! LOL
 
:)
micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Mar 31 02:24AM +0300

In comp.mobile.android, on Tue, 27 Mar 2018 10:27:51 +0100, Chris Green
>> it may not shrink down full around the cable.
 
>Yes, well specify 3:1 or 4:1 heatshrink then, 3:1 is very easy to find
>and 4:1 is certainly available.
 
i'VE NOTICED that mine is about 2:1. It's not marked or labeled, and I
buy the cheapest stuff I can find, so it woudn't go over a usb plug and
shrink to fit the cable.
micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Mar 31 02:27AM +0300

In comp.mobile.android, on Tue, 27 Mar 2018 14:14:56 +0200, "Carlos
 
>On 2018-03-27 01:27, Erholt Rhein wrote:
>> What do you use as a USB cable strain relief? https://imgur.com/VUSYhBu
 
>Nothing. I simply handle them with care.
 
Me too.
 
>None of my cables broke in that part. Two failed at the pins.
 
I don't think I use them as much as some of you but none have failed. I
have AC extension cords that go back I think 50 years, certainly 40..
In a couple, the rubber cracked and I couldn't save them, but other
rubber has lasted. Most of my stuff never breaks.
Joerg Lorenz <hugybear@gmx.ch>: Mar 31 01:38AM +0200

Am 30.03.18 um 23:24 schrieb Carlos E.R.:
 
> What, you used different names changing them frequently? Well, that
> defines you as a not reliable Internet person. A troll.
 
> Not reading the rest. EOD.
 
+1
Frank Slootweg <this@ddress.is.invalid>: Mar 31 12:43PM

> On 2018-03-30 22:54, Ragnusen Ultred wrote:
[...]
> > I've been on the Usenet for decades,
 
> No, you haven't. The name Ragnusen Ultred appeared recently.
 
Not only that, nobody has been on "the Usenet", ever. Likewise, there
are no "nntp headers".
 
Making these kinds of errors and claiming to be an expert, shows that
- also in this area - he severely suffers from Dunning-Kruger effect.
 
> What, you used different names changing them frequently? Well, that
> defines you as a not reliable Internet person. A troll.
 
Yes, it's kind of pathetic that someone who is a netabuser in so many
areas, claims to be a Usenet expert and tries to teach *others* lessons,
even on Netiquette for crying out loud.
 
> Not reading the rest. EOD.
 
[This area has been left blank for Mr. EMAK's whingeing about people not
"adding value" to 'his' thread, while he already got the answer to his
troll#####question, but does not like it.]
"Carlos E.R." <robin_listas@es.invalid>: Mar 31 03:28PM +0200

On 2018-03-30 23:29, Ragnusen Ultred wrote:
 
> I posit, therefore, that your logic is that of a child.
 
> This appears to be your logic:
> A. Because someone desires privacy, B. Then they are a troll.
 
Huh, no. You protect privacy by not using your real name, then sticking
to it like a man. Stand by your values and what you say by using the
same alias for ever.
 
Anybody that wants can track you name changes back in time. I have a
list of yours, and signal all your posts. It severs no purpose your name
changing - it just annoys people. For a short time you may fool us, then
we suspect, and finally we are sure. Thus you name changing does not
protect your privacy. Don't lie.
 
--
Cheers, Carlos.
"Carlos E.R." <robin_listas@es.invalid>: Mar 31 03:29PM +0200

On 2018-03-30 20:30, Joerg Lorenz wrote:
 
>> Thus I make nothing of using a free server.
 
> That's why I had to put you on my "troll server"-exception list to be
> able to read you.
 
Thankyou :-)
 
--
Cheers, Carlos.
M.Joshi <M.Joshi.150430d8@diybanter.com>: Mar 30 06:49PM +0100

Hi,
 
I'm trying to repair a meter that has had a couple of AA batteries leak.
I've noticed that the leaking electrolyte from the battery over-time
has found its way to the power input solder wire connections on the PCB.
 
 
Could the electrolyte migrate via the wires from the battery terminals
to the PCB connections? The wires are fairly long.
 
 
 
 
--
M.Joshi
"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Mar 30 11:36AM -0700

On Friday, March 30, 2018 at 1:58:52 PM UTC-4, M.Joshi wrote:
> to the PCB connections? The wires are fairly long.
 
> --
> M.Joshi
 
Yes, it will. Leaking electrolyte will propagate along any current path as long as it remains active. Further, some electrolytes are volatile under certain conditions, so they can migrate as a vapor.
 
Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
Terry Schwartz <tschw10117@aol.com>: Mar 30 11:37AM -0700

On Friday, March 30, 2018 at 12:58:52 PM UTC-5, M.Joshi wrote:
> to the PCB connections? The wires are fairly long.
 
> --
> M.Joshi
 
Liquids can wick thru stranded wire just like water thru a straw. I've seen it many times on vehicle wire harnesses. Usually at one end there is a sealed PCB enclosure that is creating a vacuum with temperature changes.
M.Joshi <M.Joshi.150451a8@diybanter.com>: Mar 30 09:09PM +0100

Thanks for the replies.
 
I have seen some videos that reccommend using white vinegar to clean the
dried battery electrolyte.
 
Is there a better cleaner to use?
 
I assume it's probably a good idea to replace the battery wires as the
strands are likely corroded?
 
 
 
 
--
M.Joshi
John-Del <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Mar 30 02:12PM -0700

On Friday, March 30, 2018 at 4:18:52 PM UTC-4, M.Joshi wrote:
 
> --
> M.Joshi
 
 
 
Nothing I have ever found removes battery corrosion better than plain old tap water. Once it's clean, then you can neutralize the pH based on what kind of batteries leaked.
whit3rd <whit3rd@gmail.com>: Mar 30 02:21PM -0700

On Friday, March 30, 2018 at 1:18:52 PM UTC-7, M.Joshi wrote:
 
> I have seen some videos that reccommend using white vinegar to clean the
> dried battery electrolyte.
 
> Is there a better cleaner to use?
 
Copper and lead make acetates, which means the vinegar will slightly
etch them; if you use vinegar, clean and rinse well afterward. Inspect
the copper carefully, printed circuit copper is thin to begin with.
 
Vinegar is a neutralizer for alkaline battery leakage (and NiCd, NiMH). Not
a great idea for acid chemistries (like gel cells or LeClanche carbon/zinc).
Soapy water, rinse, finish with isopropanol is my usual cleanup regimen.
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 15 updates in 3 topics

Bennett <bjprice@cal.berkeley.edu>: Mar 29 10:26AM -0700

On 3/26/2018 5:43 PM, Terry Schwartz wrote:
 
> You are describing something more akin to a reinforcement. Yes USB cables fatigue and break. No doubt.
 
> I have used heat shrink, but it really just moves the problem "down stream" if you will.
 
> You can also reinforce by over-molding with a material such as "sugru".... please google that. It works for stuff like this, in fact it typically exceeds my expectations.
 
I too use Sugru, especially where the connector/wire ratio is very large
and many different sizes of heat shrink would otherwise be necessary to
build up a strain relief. I've not been able to make Sugru
reinforcements look good but the stuff works like a charm.
Joerg Lorenz <hugybear@gmx.ch>: Mar 29 10:34PM +0200

Am 29.03.18 um 11:52 schrieb Carlos E.R.:
 
>> Certainly. That is exactly the header of your posting. Typical Troll-path.
 
> It is absurd to judge a troll solely for using a free server. I get a
> very different path for the same post.
 
This is not only a free server it is an anonymous server. The user has
no obligation to identify himself. That is the reason why these servers
are so popular with trolls. And the very first nntp-server on the line
(in fact close to the end) tells you the injection point because these
troll-servers also suppress the injection-info.
 
It is easily possible that the routing to your server looks different
but not the injection point.
 
CU
Joerg Lorenz <hugybear@gmx.ch>: Mar 29 10:37PM +0200

Am 29.03.18 um 18:00 schrieb Frank Slootweg:
 
> The rest of the Path shows how the post got from the origin to your
> news server. Because Joerg and you use a different news server, that
> part of the Path is different.
 
The injection point is: news.highwinds-media.com, a typical troll-server.
"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Mar 29 01:42PM -0700

Guys and Gals!
 
You are feeding the troll simply by continuing the discussion.
 
Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
83LowRider <none@none.com>: Mar 29 04:58PM -0400

On 3/26/2018 7:27 PM, Erholt Rhein wrote:
 
> I have been recently wrapping the ends with the tie wire that comes with
> the cable but I would like to know what you use as a USB cable strain
> relief that works better. https://imgur.com/yjHLBYt
 
 
Lots of replies, so this may have been suggested already
 
http://i.imgur.com/aJUXf.jpg
 
Taken from any 'click' pen.
"Carlos E.R." <robin_listas@es.invalid>: Mar 29 11:52AM +0200

On 2018-03-29 08:24, Joerg Lorenz wrote:
 
> Path:
> news.albasani.net!feeder.usenetexpress.com!feeder-in1.iad1.usenetexpress.com!border1.nntp.dca1.giganews.com!border2.nntp.dca1.giganews.com!nntp.giganews.com!peer01.iad!feed-me.highwinds-media.com!news.highwinds-media.com!post01.iad!fx30.iad.POSTED!not-for-mail
 
> Certainly. That is exactly the header of your posting. Typical Troll-path.
 
It is absurd to judge a troll solely for using a free server. I get a
very different path for the same post.
 
Path:
uni-berlin.de!fu-berlin.de!199-v6no6316038itl.0!news-out.google.com!d3-v6ni3566itf.0!nntp.google.com!peer01.iad!feed-me.highwinds-media.com!news.highwinds-media.com!post01.iad!fx23.iad.POSTED!not-for-mail
 
--
Cheers, Carlos.
Erholt Rhein <erholtr@pobox.com>: Mar 29 11:22PM -0400


> Lots of replies, so this may have been suggested already
 
> http://i.imgur.com/aJUXf.jpg
 
> Taken from any 'click' pen.
 
That's the best idea ever!
http://i.imgur.com/aJUXf.jpg\
 
The pen spring was suggested but until I saw your photo I didn't think the
pen spring would work. You showed that a pen spring _is_ big enough to roll
onto the Apple cable becoming what I had called a strain relief but I don't
know what it's called because others said it's not a strain relief.
 
That picture is PERFECT for what I want to do, and is the best and cheapest
answer yet and it relieves the strain gradually which is another perfect
thing!
 
Now I have to root through the trash to find all those Bic click pens I've
thrown away over the years! LOL
Frank Slootweg <this@ddress.is.invalid>: Mar 29 04:00PM

> very different path for the same post.
 
> Path:
> uni-berlin.de!fu-berlin.de!199-v6no6316038itl.0!news-out.google.com!d3-v6ni3566itf.0!nntp.google.com!peer01.iad!feed-me.highwinds-media.com!news.highwinds-media.com!post01.iad!fx23.iad.POSTED!not-for-mail
 
It's about the right-hand side of the Path. You read a Path from right
to left. The right-hand side indicates (read: should indicate) the
origin server of the post.
 
The right-hand part of the Path is the same:
 
Joerg:
 
> > Path:
> > ...!peer01.iad!feed-me.highwinds-media.com!news.highwinds-media.com!post01.iad!fx30.iad.POSTED!not-for-mail
 
You:
> Path:
> ...!peer01.iad!feed-me.highwinds-media.com!news.highwinds-media.com!post01.iad!fx23.iad.POSTED!not-for-mail
 
In this particular case, a long part of the Path is the same. Normally
it's only one or two !-parts.
 
The rest of the Path shows how the post got from the origin to your
news server. Because Joerg and you use a different news server, that
part of the Path is different.
 
HTH.
 
--
Frank Slootweg, in a past life, (part-time) News server admin in some
tiny 150,000 employee company.
"Carlos E.R." <robin_listas@es.invalid>: Mar 30 01:56PM +0200

On 2018-03-29 22:37, Joerg Lorenz wrote:
>> news server. Because Joerg and you use a different news server, that
>> part of the Path is different.
 
> The injection point is: news.highwinds-media.com, a typical troll-server.
 
Well, I have been using news.aioe.org and freenews.netfront.net for a
long time, and I'm certainly no troll. I simply do not like to pay and
my ISP does no longer provide nntp.
 
Thus I make nothing of using a free server.
 
If a name shifter uses always the same server, well, that's a clue, but
not definitive. Posting from there is not definitive.
 
 
--
Cheers, Carlos.
Terry Schwartz <tschw10117@aol.com>: Mar 30 06:38AM -0700

On Thursday, March 29, 2018 at 3:59:43 PM UTC-5, 83LowRider wrote:
 
> Lots of replies, so this may have been suggested already
 
> http://i.imgur.com/aJUXf.jpg
 
> Taken from any 'click' pen.
 
Interesting, in that picture, the USB cable jacket is *already* compromised.
"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Mar 30 06:50AM -0700

late to this, but:
 
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Plasti-Dip-14-5-fl-oz-Blue-Dip-Coating/3760681?cm_mmc=SCE_PLA_ONLY-_-Paint-_-SprayPaint-_-3760681:Plasti_Dip&CAWELAID=&kpid=3760681&CAGPSPN=pla&k_clickID=2e6d9979-34bc-4d57-981a-7e5b8c919e05&gclid=CjwKCAjwwPfVBRBiEiwAdkM0HYLWkX1YPuaryO2wZ-nccP5uP6lj6efcq7BaNfkdh9EH2KSr257DZBoC4mUQAvD_BwE
 
Install with an expendable brush.
 
Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
Frank Slootweg <this@ddress.is.invalid>: Mar 30 03:06PM

Carlos E.R. <robin_listas@es.invalid> wrote:
[...]
> Well, I have been using news.aioe.org and freenews.netfront.net for a
> long time, and I'm certainly no troll.
 
True, but for example aioe *is* used by a lot of trolls. Example: Our
resident nymshifter.
 
> I simply do not like to pay and
> my ISP does no longer provide nntp.
 
Huh? Aren't you using the pay-server News.Individual.[NET|DE]? :
 
> Path: uni-berlin.de!individual.net!not-for-mail
 
That's your Path to me, i.e. we're both on News.Individual.[NET|DE].
 
[...]
jurb6006@gmail.com: Mar 29 07:08PM -0700

Just thought I'd let you know, it is finally done. I had help too. Anyway :
 
Wired in substitute transformer for filament of CRT.
 
Replace Q 260 and modify to accept silicon.
 
Replace Q 233 & 243, silicon worked fine.
 
Bypassed variable vertical gain controls.
 
Cleaned output level switch and tub socket on calibrator.
 
Basic calibration of sweep and vertical gain.
 
Sounds easy eh ? It took some doing to figure it out and the modification for Q 260 was all wrong at first because I am not that familiar with working in a negative supply. But someone pointed out my mistake and one piece of quick math it was good to go.
 
Anyway, between "A Little Help From My Friends" here, on SED and the Tek Scopes group it is working pretty much perfectly. It might need a bit more calibration but I need to obtain a couple of things first. It is however, plenty usable right now.
John-Del <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Mar 30 05:01AM -0700


> Basic calibration of sweep and vertical gain.
 
> Sounds easy eh ? It took some doing to figure it out and the modification for Q 260 was all wrong at first because I am not that familiar with working in a negative supply. But someone pointed out my mistake and one piece of quick math it was good to go.
 
> Anyway, between "A Little Help From My Friends" here, on SED and the Tek Scopes group it is working pretty much perfectly. It might need a bit more calibration but I need to obtain a couple of things first. It is however, plenty usable right now.
 
 
 
Yeah, working with a negative supply is not intuitive to me. I usually walk away, have a cup of coffee, come back and then it's (sorta) clear.
John-Del <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Mar 29 11:17AM -0700

On Thursday, March 29, 2018 at 9:29:42 AM UTC-4, Terry Schwartz wrote:
 
> > My car had a flat a few years back, and couldn't find a replacement tire. Not anywhere.
> > Only Michelin ever made that size, and they'd discontinued it. So, four new rims
> > and tires were the only way to retire the subsize spare back to the trunk.
 
 
I remember the first Fox body Mustangs had a custom sized tire and rim, and they were eventually discontinued by Michelin. IIRC, the rims had to be swapped out to standard GT rims.
 
Ah, here it is: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Michelin_TRX
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 9 updates in 4 topics

"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Mar 28 10:16AM -0700

> Typical Troll path. Did the Army fire you?
 
Never was, most likely.
Joerg Lorenz <hugybear@gmx.ch>: Mar 29 08:24AM +0200

Am 28.03.18 um 17:08 schrieb Colonel Edmund J. Burke:
 
>> Typical Troll path. Did the Army fire you?
 
> That's not my header, dumbo.
> LOL
 
Path:
news.albasani.net!feeder.usenetexpress.com!feeder-in1.iad1.usenetexpress.com!border1.nntp.dca1.giganews.com!border2.nntp.dca1.giganews.com!nntp.giganews.com!peer01.iad!feed-me.highwinds-media.com!news.highwinds-media.com!post01.iad!fx30.iad.POSTED!not-for-mail
 
Certainly. That is exactly the header of your posting. Typical Troll-path.
"Carlos E.R." <robin_listas@es.invalid>: Mar 29 11:52AM +0200

On 2018-03-29 08:24, Joerg Lorenz wrote:
 
> Path:
> news.albasani.net!feeder.usenetexpress.com!feeder-in1.iad1.usenetexpress.com!border1.nntp.dca1.giganews.com!border2.nntp.dca1.giganews.com!nntp.giganews.com!peer01.iad!feed-me.highwinds-media.com!news.highwinds-media.com!post01.iad!fx30.iad.POSTED!not-for-mail
 
> Certainly. That is exactly the header of your posting. Typical Troll-path.
 
It is absurd to judge a troll solely for using a free server. I get a
very different path for the same post.
 
Path:
uni-berlin.de!fu-berlin.de!199-v6no6316038itl.0!news-out.google.com!d3-v6ni3566itf.0!nntp.google.com!peer01.iad!feed-me.highwinds-media.com!news.highwinds-media.com!post01.iad!fx23.iad.POSTED!not-for-mail
 
--
Cheers, Carlos.
Frank Slootweg <this@ddress.is.invalid>: Mar 29 04:00PM

> very different path for the same post.
 
> Path:
> uni-berlin.de!fu-berlin.de!199-v6no6316038itl.0!news-out.google.com!d3-v6ni3566itf.0!nntp.google.com!peer01.iad!feed-me.highwinds-media.com!news.highwinds-media.com!post01.iad!fx23.iad.POSTED!not-for-mail
 
It's about the right-hand side of the Path. You read a Path from right
to left. The right-hand side indicates (read: should indicate) the
origin server of the post.
 
The right-hand part of the Path is the same:
 
Joerg:
 
> > Path:
> > ...!peer01.iad!feed-me.highwinds-media.com!news.highwinds-media.com!post01.iad!fx30.iad.POSTED!not-for-mail
 
You:
> Path:
> ...!peer01.iad!feed-me.highwinds-media.com!news.highwinds-media.com!post01.iad!fx23.iad.POSTED!not-for-mail
 
In this particular case, a long part of the Path is the same. Normally
it's only one or two !-parts.
 
The rest of the Path shows how the post got from the origin to your
news server. Because Joerg and you use a different news server, that
part of the Path is different.
 
HTH.
 
--
Frank Slootweg, in a past life, (part-time) News server admin in some
tiny 150,000 employee company.
whit3rd <whit3rd@gmail.com>: Mar 29 02:00AM -0700

On Sunday, March 25, 2018 at 7:57:28 PM UTC-7, AIOE wrote:
> It goes flat in minutes.
> I cannot find a better tire choice.
> Is there some other product to use that is better and very long lasting ?
 
Yeah, you can buy a new wheel. Tire sizes, wheel rims, and inner tubes, are a logistical
nightmare (too many different size/shape options). But, Harbor Freight (and maybe
other suppliers) can sell you a whole wheel at an appealing price.
 
My car had a flat a few years back, and couldn't find a replacement tire. Not anywhere.
Only Michelin ever made that size, and they'd discontinued it. So, four new rims
and tires were the only way to retire the subsize spare back to the trunk.
Terry Schwartz <tschw10117@aol.com>: Mar 29 06:29AM -0700

To me that seems unlikely. There are always tire size choices, a little wider or narrower, around your original tire size that can be used on the very same rims. I think your tire salesman saw an opportunity to sell you wheels.
 
I've been thru this on a few vehicles and never been totally locked out of choices. If I had insisted on only the exact original size, then sure. But I always found a "like" size that went right on, without even affecting my speedo reading.
 
 
"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Mar 29 05:44AM -0700

The relay arrived yesterday. About 1" x 1.25" x 3/8" and weighs as much as two quarters and a dime (coins). Six pins. And, it has the original Harman-Kardon part number on it as well as the CCI part number.
 
"Ian Field" <gangprobing.alien1@virginmedia.com>: Mar 28 07:41PM +0100

"Fox's Mercantile" <jdangus@att.net> wrote in message
news:Av2dnfJJ_9_ikjDHnZ2dnUU7-WHNnZ2d@giganews.com...
>> whatever else done at the time,interpreted as a repair..
 
> So, how much did this piece of crap cost new?
> And how many hours did you waste "fixing" it?
 
The one i bought was £60 - £80 by the time I opted for the SS bracelet.
 
Last I saw advertised was somewhere around £140.
 
One of the discount stores did a very basic radio controlled watch for £15.
The waveceptor let go of its bracelet mount after at least a decade use,
I've gone through a couple of dumpster diver's watches before unpacking the
cheapie.
 
There's a growing collection of watches in a drawer - sometimes
circumstances align to make one of them a simple repair.
"Ian Field" <gangprobing.alien1@virginmedia.com>: Mar 28 07:43PM +0100

"N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote in message
news:p9a7jq$k4l$1@dont-email.me...
> automatically yesterday. So perhaps cleaning battery contact points, and
> bending contact metal is all that was wrong. Otherwise leaving out the
> piezo spring contact-unlikely or close-handling , the big unknown
 
On very cheap alarm watches - a cracked piezo is enough mismatch to drag the
supply down and confuse timekeeping.
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 6 updates in 3 topics

whosbest54 <whosbest54@NO_SPAMyahoo.com.invalid>: Mar 27 11:02AM -0500

"Carlos E.R." <robin_listas@es.invalid>: Mar 27 02:14PM +0200

On 2018-03-27 01:27, Erholt Rhein wrote:
> What do you use as a USB cable strain relief? https://imgur.com/VUSYhBu
 
Nothing. I simply handle them with care.
 
None of my cables broke in that part. Two failed at the pins.
 
--
Cheers, Carlos.
John McGaw <Nobody@Nowh.ere>: Mar 27 10:38AM -0400

On 3/26/2018 7:27 PM, Erholt Rhein wrote:
 
> I have been recently wrapping the ends with the tie wire that comes with
> the cable but I would like to know what you use as a USB cable strain
> relief that works better. https://imgur.com/yjHLBYt
 
I don't use anything since I always use quality braided cables when there
is a great chance of excess strain but I understand that some people use a
blob of Sugru for the purpose. I have used that product to reinforce/repair
the inbuilt USB cable on the auto power adapter from my old Magellan GPS
and, while it was a pretty ugly mess, it did the job quite well and also
allowed me to make the cord into a 90-degree rather than straight feed so
it kept the cord away from the shift lever.
"Colonel Edmund J. Burke" <burkesbabes@std-girls.com>: Mar 27 07:42AM -0700

On 3/26/2018 4:27 PM, Erholt Rhein wrote:
 
> I have been recently wrapping the ends with the tie wire that comes with
> the cable but I would like to know what you use as a USB cable strain
> relief that works better. https://imgur.com/yjHLBYt
 
You sum kinda idiot?
Frank Slootweg <this@ddress.is.invalid>: Mar 27 03:54PM


> I have been recently wrapping the ends with the tie wire that comes with
> the cable but I would like to know what you use as a USB cable strain
> relief that works better. https://imgur.com/yjHLBYt
 
Just buy/use cables with built-in strain relief, i.e. a flexible part
at the cable sides of the connectors. The cables you showed don't have
such a flexible part. They're probably cheap crap.
 
FWIW, the only cheap-crap [1] cable I (know I) have, indeed does not
have flexible strain relief. Duh!
 
[1] Yes, I have a valid excuse for this one! :-)
makolber@yahoo.com: Mar 27 07:08AM -0700

> shaft still sticks up slightly. I know if I leave it off. I'll never
> find it again too. I guess Im just gonna make an indent in the frame
> where the knob goes, using my Dremyl tool. It wont be seen anyhow.
 
or is the problem electrical?
 
is there some metal short that drains the battery?
 
m
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 16 updates in 5 topics

oldschool@tubes.com: Mar 26 01:21AM -0600

I have a very decorative antique reproduction clock holder which I
really like. The clock itself is an Analog Quartz clock that runs on one
AAA battery. Clocks is not something I have really worked on.
 
This one is goofy. The decorative frame holder is mounted on the wall,
and the clock itself snaps into it, with 3 spring clips to keep it in
the frame. Everytime I put the clock in the frame, it runs for a half
hour or less, and stops. I did all the usual stuff, replaced the
battery, cleaned the contacts for the battery, and made sure it was
securely touching the contacts.
 
I set the time and laid the clock on a table. That was 2 weeks ago. It's
kept time perfectly. The other day I put it back in the frame, and a
half hour later it stopped. I did this a few more times. Yesterday I
replaced the battery a second time (from a fresh pack), and put the
clock back in the frame. Again, in about a half hour it stopped.
 
Three hours ago, I removed it again. This time I set it on a table,
standing in edge (like it would be in the frame), and put two books
against it to keep it standing. It's been running fine and keeping time
ever since. WHAT THE FUCK?????
 
On the table, it's in exactly the same position it is inside that frame.
Those clips that hold it into the frame are part of the clock's housing
and should have no effect on the clock's mechanism.
 
But I did notice on thing. On the rear of the clock, is the knob to set
the time. That knob sticks out about 1/16 inch past the rear of the
clock. When the clock is pressed into thge frame, that knob appears to
touch the back of the frame. While I only thought that knob was to set
the time, is it possible that it rotates when the clock is running, and
is jamming up from being held tight against the frame? I surely can not
see any other reason it refuses to keep running when it's in the
frame...
 
If this is the case, I wonder how it worked all the years before I
bought it. Or could that explain why I found it at a second hand store?
 
If I dont push it into the frame tightly, the clips are not fully
holding it, and it could fall out of the frame and break when it hits
the floor. However, if I can prove this is the problem, I suppose I can
take my Dermyl tool with a small grinding wheel tip, and hollow out the
backing on that frame, where that knob sits. If that dont do it, I can
only suspect someone from another planet is trying to drive me to drink.
Come to think of it, I think it's time for a beer.... Later.
Mike Coon <gravity@mjcoon.plus.com>: Mar 26 08:59AM +0100

In article <dv5hbddmmct74ivccu48iimtto43vbf0l5@4ax.com>,
oldschool@tubes.com says...
> backing on that frame, where that knob sits. If that dont do it, I can
> only suspect someone from another planet is trying to drive me to drink.
> Come to think of it, I think it's time for a beer.... Later.
 
Does the knob pull off (to give more clearance)?
 
Mike.
Terry Schwartz <tschw10117@aol.com>: Mar 26 05:08AM -0700

Did you check the battery voltage after the clock failed?
WHAT THE FUCK?????
Take your Dermyl tool and grind away.
Clocks is something even you might be able to figure out with a little basic troubleshooting.
I suspect the Chinese are getting back at you.
John-Del <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Mar 26 07:23AM -0700

> backing on that frame, where that knob sits. If that dont do it, I can
> only suspect someone from another planet is trying to drive me to drink.
> Come to think of it, I think it's time for a beer.... Later.
 
 
 
The problem is obvious; it's haunted. Get it exorcised or buy a new one.
AIOE <AIOE@AIOESPAM.COM>: Mar 25 07:57PM -0700

I have a wheelbarrow.
It has a pneumatic tire with a Schrader valve.
It goes flat in minutes.
I cannot find a better tire choice.
 
I have changed it out several times and I am done with that.
 
What is the best solution for this other than that green goop ?
 
Is there some other product to use that is better and very long lasting ?
Rheilly Phoull <rheilly@bigslong.com>: Mar 26 11:16AM +0800

On 26/03/2018 10:57 AM, AIOE wrote:
 
> I have changed it out several times and I am done with that.
 
> What is the best solution for this other than that green goop ?
 
> Is there some other product to use that is better and very long lasting ?
 
Replace with a solid or rubberised wheel.
Ralph Mowery <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: Mar 25 11:34PM -0400

In article <p99nih$1u7l$1@gioia.aioe.org>, AIOE@AIOESPAM.COM says...
 
> What is the best solution for this other than that green goop ?
 
> Is there some other product to use that is better and very long lasting ?
 
Is that green goop the same as the Fix a Flat that comes in a can ?
 
I had a ridding lawn mower that would go flat and filled the tires with
the fix a flat and then mowed the yard. No more leaking down for the
whole season or more.
 
If you do use the fix a flat, keep turning the wheel for a while.
Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Mar 25 09:12PM -0700

>It has a pneumatic tire with a Schrader valve.
>It goes flat in minutes.
>I cannot find a better tire choice.
 
Install an inner tube. The tire is probably leaking between the tire
and the rim, probably due to rust, dirt, or both. I have two hand
trucks with the same problem. They leaked air no matter what I did.
So, I installed an inner tube and lived happily ever after.
<https://www.google.com/search?q=wheelbarrow+inner+tube>
 
--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Mar 25 11:18PM -0500

On 3/25/18 9:57 PM, AIOE wrote:
 
> What is the best solution for this other than that green goop ?
 
> Is there some other product to use that is better and very long
> lasting ?
 
<https://www.walmart.com/ip/FLAT-FREE-KNOBBY-WHEELBARROW-REPLACEMENT-TIRE/17646256>
 
I got tired of the tire being flat every time I wanted to use my
wheelbarrow,
 
Been four years now, haven't touched it since.
 
 
--
"I am a river to my people."
Jeff-1.0
WA6FWi
http:foxsmercantile.com
oldschool@tubes.com: Mar 26 12:48AM -0600

On Sun, 25 Mar 2018 21:12:00 -0700, Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>
wrote:
 
>trucks with the same problem. They leaked air no matter what I did.
>So, I installed an inner tube and lived happily ever after.
><https://www.google.com/search?q=wheelbarrow+inner+tube>
 
This is one of the first things I learned when I began farming. As soon
as them small tires begin going flat, put an inner tube in them. Them
little inner tubes are not costly. $5 to $10. You wont regret it. When I
want to use my wheelbarrows, I dont want to have to fuck with flat tires
each and every time. If you're careful you can install the inner tubes
yourself. It dotn take much effort to remove them small tires with some
screwdrivers. Just be sure you dont pinch or puncture the tube when
installing it. Unless you go over a nail, or the tire gets weathered so
bad it ruptures, the tube will last forever.
 
Quality wheelbarrows usually have inner tubes already installed, but the
cheaper ones dont.
 
TIP: A little talcum powder rubbed on the tube makes it go together
easier. (Or corn starch, which is mostly what talcum powder is).
 
And do not over pressure them. Read the directions on the tube for
proper pressure.
Terry Schwartz <tschw10117@aol.com>: Mar 26 05:12AM -0700

WRONG. Talcum powder is made of the mineral talc. Magnesium, silicon, and oxygen.
 
John-Del <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Mar 26 07:21AM -0700

On Sunday, March 25, 2018 at 10:57:28 PM UTC-4, AIOE wrote:
 
> I have changed it out several times and I am done with that.
 
> What is the best solution for this other than that green goop ?
 
> Is there some other product to use that is better and very long lasting ?
 
 
 
Yep, solid rubber tire.. Put one on my barrow almost 10 years ago with no problems. Doesn't ride as well but the wife never complains..
Ralph Mowery <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: Mar 26 10:21AM -0400

In article <H9udnXVLcuU06SXHnZ2dnUU7-dHNnZ2d@giganews.com>,
jdangus@att.net says...
 
> Been four years now, haven't touched it since.
 
Unless it is some kind of heavy duty wheelbarrow, you can get a whole
new one with flat free tires for about the same price or a few dollars
more.
 
While not very big, I bought a Worx wheelbarrow thing last year. Works
very well for me. Did not get it off their sight, but from a place on
ebay that was a lot less. It came with the flat free tires.
N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Mar 26 08:31AM +0100

2 weeks on and no problem, passed through to daylight saving time
automatically yesterday. So perhaps cleaning battery contact points, and
bending contact metal is all that was wrong. Otherwise leaving out the
piezo spring contact-unlikely or close-handling , the big unknown
Ralph Mowery <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: Mar 25 10:46AM -0400

In article <788f293e-4d61-4088-81bb-ee28bb1f8224@googlegroups.com>,
ohger1s@gmail.com says...
 
> Unless I was building a harmonium, I wouldn't worry about matched reeds...[rimshot] I refuse to believe that someone (anyone) could hear an audible difference between audio switched through an $80 matched reed relay and a $5 reed relay from Digi.
 
Don't tell that to the audio nuts. They even go to the process of
replacing the solder in some equipment to a certain type to make the
audio sound better.
 
They will buy a 6 foot AC cord to go from the equipment to the wall
socket for around $ 100 that is something special. They don't seem to
know there is 25 to 100 feet of inexpensive cable from the socket to the
braker box, and hard telling what from there to the power company
generators.
gregz <zekor@comcast.net>: Mar 25 08:29PM

>> Gregj
 
> 500 was changed to 300 vdc in my schematic.
 
> Greg
 
Been extra cautious with this thing. Been checking everything. Replaced a
VR tube, and moved a lead from VR adjust pot was too close to chassis.
Replaced all 3 10 ohm resistors with wire wounds. Put current sensing LEDs
with drops across each. With hard turn on, the one has a pretty huge
current spike. I think that one was the original problem, pretty sure at
top of 420 volt section. Failure of it may have taken out one on lower
supply, guessing.
 
This scope may be replacing one in research setup, that uses external
connections, and an extra mod for a sawtooth output.
 
Years ago, another 565 from the same lab was mounted at the top of a rack
with wheels. I was pulling out a big strip chart recorder near the bottom.
The rack started tilting forward, and strip chart extending. I decided to
move out bumping into table, and loud crash. Was not pretty. They kept
using that wheeled rack, but put lead weights in bottom.
 
Greg
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