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oldschool@tubes.com: Mar 26 01:21AM -0600 I have a very decorative antique reproduction clock holder which I really like. The clock itself is an Analog Quartz clock that runs on one AAA battery. Clocks is not something I have really worked on.   This one is goofy. The decorative frame holder is mounted on the wall, and the clock itself snaps into it, with 3 spring clips to keep it in the frame. Everytime I put the clock in the frame, it runs for a half hour or less, and stops. I did all the usual stuff, replaced the battery, cleaned the contacts for the battery, and made sure it was securely touching the contacts.   I set the time and laid the clock on a table. That was 2 weeks ago. It's kept time perfectly. The other day I put it back in the frame, and a half hour later it stopped. I did this a few more times. Yesterday I replaced the battery a second time (from a fresh pack), and put the clock back in the frame. Again, in about a half hour it stopped.   Three hours ago, I removed it again. This time I set it on a table, standing in edge (like it would be in the frame), and put two books against it to keep it standing. It's been running fine and keeping time ever since. WHAT THE FUCK?????   On the table, it's in exactly the same position it is inside that frame. Those clips that hold it into the frame are part of the clock's housing and should have no effect on the clock's mechanism.   But I did notice on thing. On the rear of the clock, is the knob to set the time. That knob sticks out about 1/16 inch past the rear of the clock. When the clock is pressed into thge frame, that knob appears to touch the back of the frame. While I only thought that knob was to set the time, is it possible that it rotates when the clock is running, and is jamming up from being held tight against the frame? I surely can not see any other reason it refuses to keep running when it's in the frame...   If this is the case, I wonder how it worked all the years before I bought it. Or could that explain why I found it at a second hand store?   If I dont push it into the frame tightly, the clips are not fully holding it, and it could fall out of the frame and break when it hits the floor. However, if I can prove this is the problem, I suppose I can take my Dermyl tool with a small grinding wheel tip, and hollow out the backing on that frame, where that knob sits. If that dont do it, I can only suspect someone from another planet is trying to drive me to drink. Come to think of it, I think it's time for a beer.... Later.

Mike Coon <gravity@mjcoon.plus.com>: Mar 26 08:59AM +0100 In article <dv5hbddmmct74ivccu48iimtto43vbf0l5@4ax.com>, oldschool@tubes.com says... > backing on that frame, where that knob sits. If that dont do it, I can > only suspect someone from another planet is trying to drive me to drink. > Come to think of it, I think it's time for a beer.... Later.   Does the knob pull off (to give more clearance)?   Mike.

Terry Schwartz <tschw10117@aol.com>: Mar 26 05:08AM -0700 Did you check the battery voltage after the clock failed? WHAT THE FUCK????? Take your Dermyl tool and grind away. Clocks is something even you might be able to figure out with a little basic troubleshooting. I suspect the Chinese are getting back at you.

John-Del <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Mar 26 07:23AM -0700 > backing on that frame, where that knob sits. If that dont do it, I can > only suspect someone from another planet is trying to drive me to drink. > Come to think of it, I think it's time for a beer.... Later.       The problem is obvious; it's haunted. Get it exorcised or buy a new one.

AIOE <AIOE@AIOESPAM.COM>: Mar 25 07:57PM -0700 I have a wheelbarrow. It has a pneumatic tire with a Schrader valve. It goes flat in minutes. I cannot find a better tire choice.   I have changed it out several times and I am done with that.   What is the best solution for this other than that green goop ?   Is there some other product to use that is better and very long lasting ?

Rheilly Phoull <rheilly@bigslong.com>: Mar 26 11:16AM +0800 On 26/03/2018 10:57 AM, AIOE wrote:   > I have changed it out several times and I am done with that.   > What is the best solution for this other than that green goop ?   > Is there some other product to use that is better and very long lasting ?   Replace with a solid or rubberised wheel.

Ralph Mowery <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: Mar 25 11:34PM -0400 In article <p99nih$1u7l$1@gioia.aioe.org>, AIOE@AIOESPAM.COM says...   > What is the best solution for this other than that green goop ?   > Is there some other product to use that is better and very long lasting ?   Is that green goop the same as the Fix a Flat that comes in a can ?   I had a ridding lawn mower that would go flat and filled the tires with the fix a flat and then mowed the yard. No more leaking down for the whole season or more.   If you do use the fix a flat, keep turning the wheel for a while.

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Mar 25 09:12PM -0700 >It has a pneumatic tire with a Schrader valve. >It goes flat in minutes. >I cannot find a better tire choice.   Install an inner tube. The tire is probably leaking between the tire and the rim, probably due to rust, dirt, or both. I have two hand trucks with the same problem. They leaked air no matter what I did. So, I installed an inner tube and lived happily ever after. <https://www.google.com/search?q=wheelbarrow+inner+tube>   -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Mar 25 11:18PM -0500 On 3/25/18 9:57 PM, AIOE wrote:   > What is the best solution for this other than that green goop ?   > Is there some other product to use that is better and very long > lasting ?   <https://www.walmart.com/ip/FLAT-FREE-KNOBBY-WHEELBARROW-REPLACEMENT-TIRE/17646256>   I got tired of the tire being flat every time I wanted to use my wheelbarrow,   Been four years now, haven't touched it since.     -- "I am a river to my people." Jeff-1.0 WA6FWi http:foxsmercantile.com

oldschool@tubes.com: Mar 26 12:48AM -0600 On Sun, 25 Mar 2018 21:12:00 -0700, Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote:   >trucks with the same problem. They leaked air no matter what I did. >So, I installed an inner tube and lived happily ever after. ><https://www.google.com/search?q=wheelbarrow+inner+tube>   This is one of the first things I learned when I began farming. As soon as them small tires begin going flat, put an inner tube in them. Them little inner tubes are not costly. $5 to $10. You wont regret it. When I want to use my wheelbarrows, I dont want to have to fuck with flat tires each and every time. If you're careful you can install the inner tubes yourself. It dotn take much effort to remove them small tires with some screwdrivers. Just be sure you dont pinch or puncture the tube when installing it. Unless you go over a nail, or the tire gets weathered so bad it ruptures, the tube will last forever.   Quality wheelbarrows usually have inner tubes already installed, but the cheaper ones dont.   TIP: A little talcum powder rubbed on the tube makes it go together easier. (Or corn starch, which is mostly what talcum powder is).   And do not over pressure them. Read the directions on the tube for proper pressure.

Terry Schwartz <tschw10117@aol.com>: Mar 26 05:12AM -0700 WRONG. Talcum powder is made of the mineral talc. Magnesium, silicon, and oxygen.

John-Del <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Mar 26 07:21AM -0700 On Sunday, March 25, 2018 at 10:57:28 PM UTC-4, AIOE wrote:   > I have changed it out several times and I am done with that.   > What is the best solution for this other than that green goop ?   > Is there some other product to use that is better and very long lasting ?       Yep, solid rubber tire.. Put one on my barrow almost 10 years ago with no problems. Doesn't ride as well but the wife never complains..

Ralph Mowery <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: Mar 26 10:21AM -0400 In article <H9udnXVLcuU06SXHnZ2dnUU7-dHNnZ2d@giganews.com>, jdangus@att.net says...   > Been four years now, haven't touched it since.   Unless it is some kind of heavy duty wheelbarrow, you can get a whole new one with flat free tires for about the same price or a few dollars more.   While not very big, I bought a Worx wheelbarrow thing last year. Works very well for me. Did not get it off their sight, but from a place on ebay that was a lot less. It came with the flat free tires.

N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk>: Mar 26 08:31AM +0100 2 weeks on and no problem, passed through to daylight saving time automatically yesterday. So perhaps cleaning battery contact points, and bending contact metal is all that was wrong. Otherwise leaving out the piezo spring contact-unlikely or close-handling , the big unknown

Ralph Mowery <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: Mar 25 10:46AM -0400 In article <788f293e-4d61-4088-81bb-ee28bb1f8224@googlegroups.com>, ohger1s@gmail.com says...   > Unless I was building a harmonium, I wouldn't worry about matched reeds...[rimshot] I refuse to believe that someone (anyone) could hear an audible difference between audio switched through an $80 matched reed relay and a $5 reed relay from Digi.   Don't tell that to the audio nuts. They even go to the process of replacing the solder in some equipment to a certain type to make the audio sound better.   They will buy a 6 foot AC cord to go from the equipment to the wall socket for around $ 100 that is something special. They don't seem to know there is 25 to 100 feet of inexpensive cable from the socket to the braker box, and hard telling what from there to the power company generators.

gregz <zekor@comcast.net>: Mar 25 08:29PM >> Gregj   > 500 was changed to 300 vdc in my schematic.   > Greg   Been extra cautious with this thing. Been checking everything. Replaced a VR tube, and moved a lead from VR adjust pot was too close to chassis. Replaced all 3 10 ohm resistors with wire wounds. Put current sensing LEDs with drops across each. With hard turn on, the one has a pretty huge current spike. I think that one was the original problem, pretty sure at top of 420 volt section. Failure of it may have taken out one on lower supply, guessing.   This scope may be replacing one in research setup, that uses external connections, and an extra mod for a sawtooth output.   Years ago, another 565 from the same lab was mounted at the top of a rack with wheels. I was pulling out a big strip chart recorder near the bottom. The rack started tilting forward, and strip chart extending. I decided to move out bumping into table, and loud crash. Was not pretty. They kept using that wheeled rack, but put lead weights in bottom.   Greg

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