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tabbypurr@gmail.com: Mar 27 09:56AM -0700 > > A simple nonsequitur. You might not wish to do a minor repair to save $100-400, but some do. And sometimes getting an oven that fits a certain space can be tricky, repairing is then much quicker.   > OK - let's cut to the chase:   > a) Combination Microwave Ovens are much like BMW cars. Wannabes. As a BMW wannabe a Porsche or Wannabe a Mercedes, but does neither as well, a combination microwave does neither function as well as a dedicated oven. That is not to suggest that a BMW is not a well-made vehicle, but that it is neither a Porsche nor a Mercedes.   Firstly that's total rubbish. They also do what a separate nuke & oven never can, even if you don't know how they work. Second, your opinion on other people's appliance buying decisions really has nothing to do with whether they're better repaired or chucked. 3rd there is nowhere here you can go to buy a used combi cooker, they're seldom sold used, so there is no quick cheap availability.     > b) "For a certain space" - Fitting a function to a specific device has consequences, and in the case of a failure, not good ones. And, for the record, when it comes to a kitchen, aesthetics will ALWAYS defer to function, cleanliness and good light on our house. It is entirely possible to have both, but built-in devices are difficult to service, often difficult to replace quickly - as in on the Wednesday before Thanksgiving, or Christmas Eve.   too much waffle, a little nonsense. One of the reasons some buyers get combis is lack of enough space for separate appliances. In those cases they're often fitted appliances, making getting a replacment harder & more expensive than a simple new buy.     > c) Quicker - sure. If the parts are in hand and/or the problem is simple. If not, I could have a new *insert appliance here* installed in our house within 24 hours at the outside, and if on a non-holiday before 8:00 pm, within 2 hours.   again what do your appliance buying policies have to do with others' choices?     > d) Waste and Landfill - metal parts, appliances and such in this region go to Acelor-Mittal in Coatesville, PA, where they are shredded, materials separated, then become new steel in the oldest continuously operating steel mill in the United States - over 206 years.   Guess what, most of the world is not in PA, and most of the world does not run according to US practices.     NT

Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Mar 27 03:12PM -0500 > again what do your appliance buying policies have to do with others' choices?   What makes your opinion more valid than his?   -- "I am a river to my people." Jeff-1.0 WA6FWi http:foxsmercantile.com

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Mar 27 05:36PM -0700 >> Please remember that you have only one life to give to your hobby or >> profession.   >Which part of a microwave is even capable of explosion?   It's difficult to tell from the article, which offers several theories. The first paragraph suggests that microwave exploded, giving him a shock. The fifth paragraph suggests that he was electrocuted. Forensic investigators are still investigating. The usual online expert claimed "The high-voltage microwave oven may have charged something intentionally left inside and caused the explosion" which I presume means he left a hand grenade in the oven while preparing the popcorn. Another suggested that he was murdered by his wife and then blamed the microwave. For all I know, it could have been the vacuum cleaners fault.   I prefer to believe that he was killed by the popcorn. Popcorn is normally quite safe prepared in a microwave oven, as long as each kernel pops at a different time. However, if all the kernels were to pop at exactly the same time, they might produce a steam explosion. Statistically, that's very unlikely, but still possible.   This is what happens when I cooked a yam for 16 minutes instead of 6 minutes: <http://www.learnbydestroying.com/jeffl/pics/drivel/slides/burned-yam.html> There was no explosion, but there was plenty of fire, smoke, and stench. When I opened the door, the inside of the yam was glowing dull red.   Why do microwaves explode? <https://www.quora.com/Why-do-microwaves-explode>   >And how would said explosion result in electrocution?   Good questions. I don't have an answer. Explosive disassembly normally disconnects the wires that might present an electrocution hazard. In this situation, explosive assembly (with burns) is very unlikely.   -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

tabbypurr@gmail.com: Mar 27 05:49PM -0700 On Wednesday, 27 March 2019 20:12:43 UTC, Fox's Mercantile wrote: > On 3/27/19 11:56 AM, tabbypurr wrote:   > > again what do your appliance buying policies have to do with others' choices?   > What makes your opinion more valid than his?   ookay. I'm done here.

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Mar 27 05:52PM -0700 On Tue, 26 Mar 2019 12:33:45 -0700 (PDT), "pfjw@aol.com"   >... there is no reason on this planet to attempt to repair >such a device...   Waving money at me is usually sufficient reason.   I've only repaired a few microwave ovens. Maybe 10 or so. Most of the repairs were inspired by the owner having purchased a microwave oven that was built into a kitchen cabinet, RV cabinet, or was in some way unique (i.e. smart kitchen with remote controls). All of them were quite old. Amazingly, I was able to find old stock parts, but at the usual exorbitant prices. I charged far more for the repair than the cost of a new microwave oven. None of the owners complained about the price.   Incidentally, one of these oven repairs had a few broken plastic parts. I had a machine shop make one from my drawings. It was NOT cheap. Today, I might try a 3D printing service for appliance parts: <https://3dprint.com/138241/happy-3d-replacement-parts/> <https://www.yeggi.com/q/appliance+parts/> etc...     -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Mar 27 06:13PM -0700 On 2019/03/27 5:36 p.m., Jeff Liebermann wrote: > On Tue, 26 Mar 2019 07:25:30 -0700 (PDT), tabbypurr@gmail.com wrote:   >> On Monday, 25 March 2019 20:08:42 UTC, Jeff Liebermann wrote:   >>> If the microwave oven doesn't kill you, perhaps the popcorn will? ... > There was no explosion, but there was plenty of fire, smoke, and > stench. When I opened the door, the inside of the yam was glowing > dull red.   You aren't married, are you Jeff?   If you are then she is a gem if she lets you blow stuff up in the kitchen!   John ;-#)#

Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Mar 27 08:16PM -0500 >>> again what do your appliance buying policies have to do with others' choices?   >> What makes your opinion more valid than his?   > ookay. I'm done here.   Good.   -- "I am a river to my people." Jeff-1.0 WA6FWi http:foxsmercantile.com

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Mar 27 07:43PM -0700 On Wed, 27 Mar 2019 18:13:55 -0700, John Robertson <spam@flippers.com> wrote:   >> stench. When I opened the door, the inside of the yam was glowing >> dull red.   >You aren't married, are you Jeff?   Yes, I are not married, and yes, I are Jeff. (Please don't ask a negative question, and then append a positive question. It's rather confusing): <https://theweek.com/articles/451975/problem-positive-answers-negative-questions>   Most of the women I invite to my lair initially look around in silent shock, and then ask "You live like this"? I've discovered over the years that this means that they are calculating if it possible to domesticate me. The answer is usually clear when they discover two refrigerators in the kitchen. A small one for food, and a larger one for chemicals, batteries, and emergency supplies. Punching 16 minutes into the microwave oven timer instead of 6 minutes is a much lesser crime.   >If you are then she is a gem if she lets you blow stuff up in the kitchen!   It didn't explode. I just shot flaming "guts of yam" all over the oven walls, filled the kitchen with smoke, set off the smoke alarm, and smelled rather awful for about a month. The painted (or possibly powder coated) white interior of the Panasonic inverter oven was badly stained orange by the yam smoke. None of the common kitchen chemicals would remove the stains. I decided that toxic chemicals in the microwave was a bad idea, so I resorted to small right angle buffer and some abrasive grit. That was sufficient to make the oven presentable. However, I had to tear it apart to clean the ducting, where the common kitchen cleaners were functional.   -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

John-Del <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Mar 28 05:04AM -0700 On Wednesday, March 27, 2019 at 10:43:41 PM UTC-4, Jeff Liebermann wrote:     > Yes, I are not married, and yes, I are Jeff. (Please don't ask a > negative question, and then append a positive question. It's rather > confusing):   LOL! You're a twit Jeff, but the kind of twit I love!!   Actually, his statement is far more clumsy when written. When said out-loud, it's not nearly as confusing (although admittedly still incorrect). Said out loud, it might sound like two sentences - one a statement, and the other a question asked after considering the statement part.   Funny stuff though.

John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Mar 28 09:20AM -0700 On 2019/03/28 5:04 a.m., John-Del wrote:   > LOL! You're a twit Jeff, but the kind of twit I love!!   > Actually, his statement is far more clumsy when written. When said out-loud, it's not nearly as confusing (although admittedly still incorrect). Said out loud, it might sound like two sentences - one a statement, and the other a question asked after considering the statement part.   > Funny stuff though.   Jeeze, I put a comma where it doesn't belong and get a holy !@#$ storm!   (ducking).   Opps!   John ;-#)#

tubeguy@myshop.com: Mar 27 05:20PM -0500 Does anyone know the correct resistance of the ballast Resistor on old Points ignition? I have an old Farmall M tractor. That resistor (which is a large ceramic power resistor), only measures 3 or 4 ohms   I was expecting it to be at least 100 ohms, if not 500 or 1k. I measured this with nothing connected to it, using an analog multimeter.   This resistor is between ignition switch and the ignition coil and points. It drops the 12volts to about 6 volts. Some information I got about this tractor says the voltage should be about 8 volts after the resistor. I dont know how much tolerance is allowed, but I'd rather see a higher spark plug voltage than a lower one.   The tractor now runs, after it failed due to what appears to have been a bad condensor (capacitor). But it runs rough after replacing the points, condensor, plugs, dist cap and rotor. The spark on a test sparkplug seems kind of weak to me.....   Kind of makes me wonder if this resistor needs replacement?   (The sparkplug wires were replaced about 2 years ago, so they should be fine, since I dont use the tractor all that much).

Rheilly Phoull <rheilly@bigslong.com>: Mar 28 08:23AM +0800 > Kind of makes me wonder if this resistor needs replacement?   > (The sparkplug wires were replaced about 2 years ago, so they should be > fine, since I dont use the tractor all that much).   Presumably you know ohms law, just calculate the value to give the 8 volts after starting.

tabbypurr@gmail.com: Mar 27 05:47PM -0700 > Kind of makes me wonder if this resistor needs replacement?   > (The sparkplug wires were replaced about 2 years ago, so they should be > fine, since I dont use the tractor all that much).   A few ohms is about right. It would never work with 1k.     NT

Rheilly Phoull <rheilly@bigslong.com>: Mar 28 09:33AM +0800 On 28/03/2019 8:23 am, Rheilly Phoull wrote: >> fine, since I dont use the tractor all that much).   > Presumably you know ohms law, just calculate the value to give the 8 > volts after starting.   I also assume you know that the ballast resistor is used to apply a higher voltage to the coil by bridging it on start then opening the bridge when running.

"Dave M" <dgminala@mediacombb.net>: Mar 27 09:47PM -0500 Rheilly Phoull wrote:   > I also assume you know that the ballast resistor is used to apply a > higher voltage to the coil by bridging it on start then opening the > bridge when running.     That is correct. The resistor is removed from the circuit while cranking so the engine gets a hotter spark. The reason? Because while cranking, the starter takes a huge amount of current from the battery, lowering the available voltage to the coil. Removing the resistor from the circuit gives more voltage (and current) to the coil, helping the engine start. After the engine starts running, the starter is no longer activated, removing the huge current drain on the battery, raising its available voltage. Then the resistor is inserted into the circuit in order to reduce the current through the points, thereby reducing arcing, which can eat up the contacts rather quickly with high current. That's also the purpose of the condenser... to help reduce arcing across the points.   Cheers!! Dave M

John-Del <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Mar 28 05:07AM -0700 On Wednesday, March 27, 2019 at 9:33:46 PM UTC-4, Rheilly Phoull wrote:   > I also assume you know that the ballast resistor is used to apply a > higher voltage to the coil by bridging it on start then opening the > bridge when running.   Back in the 70s, I wired a momentary switch across the ballast resistor of my car and mounted it on the throttle shaft of my carb. At full throttle the switch bypassed the resistor.   Between that and turning the air cleaner cover over, the car broke the sound barrier...   Seriously, it did seem to help at high rpm though.

"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Mar 28 05:44AM -0700 This is NOT complicated.   a) The value is about 1.4 ohms for a 12-volt (nominal) system. b) 1.6 ohms is usually suggested for a 6-volt system (some older VWs and tractors). But that same 1.4 ohm device will work fine. c) They carry A LOT of current, and so are usually ceramic devices with substantial connectors. d) They may be purchased for as little as ~$5 + tax for a generic device that may fit to as much as $20 + tax for a name-brand device that will actually fit. e) They are still stock items in most auto-supply stores and dealerships.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

bruce2bowser@gmail.com: Mar 27 02:42PM -0700 On Saturday, February 2, 2019 at 5:29:05 PM UTC-5, Fox's Mercantile wrote: > > They're like 3 bucks shipped and come with the adhesive > > already applied.   > Because sci.electronics.repair is all about doing it the hard way.   That reminds me of the old Michael J. Fox and James Woods movie: "The Hard Way" (1991), ha ha.

Adrian Caspersz <email@here.invalid>: Mar 27 05:36PM On 26/03/2019 21:21, David Farber wrote:     > By the way, how is it the computer keeps perfect time once the time is > set and the power remains on? Shouldn't the time shown in the BIOS setup > screen begin to advance too once it's powered on?   The RTC is only read once on startup of the operating system, which then maintains the increment of it's own internal counter. There is no 'write-back' if current OS time settings are left alone by the user.   The BIOS time itself not incrementing is the fault, I reckon the chipset has got itself into a funny state and needs a reset which you haven't yet done. I'd try finding the G2101 link I mentioned.   Interestingly, the ACER ASPIRE V5 471 has the same labelled jumper, similar circuit (same original manufacturer) - and googling that "G2101", it looks a known reset method for locked BIOS etc. That Acer motherboard visually looks different, but the G2101 triangular pads were located under the DIMM sockets. Maybe Dell is in a similar location.     -- Adrian C

Adrian Caspersz <email@here.invalid>: Mar 27 05:48PM On 27/03/2019 17:36, Adrian Caspersz wrote:   > "G2101", it looks a known reset method for locked BIOS etc. That Acer > motherboard visually looks different, but the G2101 triangular pads were > located under the DIMM sockets. Maybe Dell is in a similar location.   https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9wwlUNWeVo5smMdOMhcHA6pq6LscB5WMLw2I-IhSVVdhH3GDGO004-htuc9lMnLHl2EVM9MyKRH5HFbXUf0gTN_a3_X1CP3D_fDYqfey-kDn_fzqbCjRiV0PnhNnwn14Ci-TR9f4DRGo/s1600/Dell+5110.JPG   G2101 is down to the right of G2201 as indicated. You don't want to mess with G2201, that's something else.   -- Adrian C

David Farber <farberbear.unspam@aol.com>: Mar 27 09:06AM -0700 On 3/26/2019 10:49 PM, whit3rd wrote:   > and the crystal would be X2101 and its associated components, R2101, C2101, C2102, > depicted on 'sheet 21 of 108' (see the label on lower left page corners) and connected > to pins A20 and C20 of the 'Cougar Point' big integrated circuit.   On page 99 of the schematic you can see the CMOS battery output labeled as RTC_AUX_S5. I did a text search for that and it took me to page 27 which shows VBACKUP. There are two partial circuits there. One appears to be for the CMOS battery backup and the other one, 3D3V_AUX_KBC, appears to be the backup power supplied when the unit is turned on. Both of these circuits point to EC GPIO72. Regarding the RTC_AUX_S5 diagram, there's an orange ellipse around the specifications for a resistor. It says 10mW 0R0402-PAD-2-GP. Might that be a fusible link? Also, I see the words "stuff" and "un-stuff" appearing frequently in the schematic. Are those synonyms for install and remove?   Thanks for your reply. -- David Farber Los Osos, CA

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