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Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Mar 29 09:07AM -0500 What kind of shoelaces should I use?   My shoes still have their original shoelaces, boots really. Now after I've worn them for a few years the laces are worn out and I need new ones.   I would like to find the exact laces but they are no longer made. The originals were made of catgut and of course getting catgut laces would be tough now. I could try and find NOS catgut laces, but I don't really have good internet access unless I go to Caribou, and the coffee is sooooo expensive there. And apparently sattelite internet doesn't work in my sky. So I get my access over telegraph lines, via Morse Code, and it's really slow. I thought you guys might be able to tell me where to find NOS catgut laces. I don't want the cheap Chinese catgut. I want good old 'Merican catgut. If I can't find catgut, what else should I try? What about length? If I can't find the exact length, should I get longer or shorter laces? Longer might mean tripping over them, but I could at least double knot them. Shorter might make them hard to tie.   I don't like fabric laces because they don't look right in old boots. Maybe I could find leather laces. Maybe I should try to re-stuff my old cagut laces with new fabric inside. I don't think I trust fabric laces anyway, how do I know they aren't really just string painted to look like fabric? And is leather really any different than catgut? What is the failure mode for catgut laces anyway? Has it got something to do with animal rights? How can I tell when my laces are worn out? Do they have to break? Or is just fraying enough to call them bad? What if they are just thin in spots? How thin do they have to get before I know they are bad? I tried to ohm them out but, but my meter just keeps telling me "---" which I guess means 0 ohms, they must be shorted. I'll add a resistor when I re-install.   If only one lace is worn out, should I replace both? What is this google thing of which you speak?   I'm thinking of adding aglets to my laces. Those little things that go on the end of them and keep them from fraying. I could just buy laces with aglets, but that would be too simple. I think I'll make my own out of Jello pudding and sawdust. Can anyone point me to an article explaining how? Text only please.   How do you remove old laces anyway? Everytime I try, they get all tangled in knots. And don't even THINK about putting them back in, that could be a nightmare. Does anyone have a boot stringing diagram? Make sure it's READABLE, so when I go to 7-11 to print it out, it's legible. What's a PDF?   I plan to use PAM to help re-install the laces. It not only lubricates them, but they'll smell like butter and the dogs in the neighborhood will all love me.   Thank you Terry.   -- "I am a river to my people." Jeff-1.0 WA6FWi http:foxsmercantile.com

John-Del <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Mar 29 08:08AM -0700 On Friday, March 29, 2019 at 10:07:28 AM UTC-4, Fox's Mercantile wrote: > Jeff-1.0 > WA6FWi > http:foxsmercantile.com     I would suggest ebay to find an NOS set for a lot less than you can engineer a poor copy, but I know how adverse you are to all those scammers reside there...

John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Mar 29 08:22AM -0700 On 2019/03/29 7:07 a.m., Fox's Mercantile wrote: > What kind of shoelaces should I use?   Couldn't you have waited two days?   John ;-#)#

amdx <nojunk@knology.net>: Mar 29 11:15AM -0500 On 3/29/2019 9:07 AM, Fox's Mercantile wrote: > them, but they'll smell like butter and the dogs in the neighborhood > will all love me.   > Thank you Terry.   There are people that don't have any shoes and here you are complaining about what type and length of laces you should get for your boots. Life is tough! :-) This is called a first world problem.

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Mar 29 09:37AM -0700 On Fri, 29 Mar 2019 09:07:19 -0500, Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net> wrote:   >What kind of shoelaces should I use?   Sew your own. I've never done it but there are instructions on the internet for sewing your own shoelaces: <https://www.google.com/search?q=sew+your+own+shoelaces> <https://www.google.com/search?q=sew+your+own+shoelaces&tbm=isch> The trick seems to be to find a material that has enough surface friction to not untie half way through the day, and also not turn into the impossible to untie Gordian Knot if you double knot the bow. The commercial shoelaces seem to have that part figured out, at least for the cloth shoelaces.   -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Mar 29 04:14PM +0300 To recap for the scientists: What size fuse to use in a 22V microwave:   In alt.home.repair, on Thu, 28 Mar 2019 19:07:29 -0500, Dean Hoffman   > I suspect that was tongue in cheek. If not, fuses fail just >like everything else involving humans. I've changed a lot of them over the years >without having to do anything else.   LOL. I wasn't living here when it broke; I don't know what they did to it.   By the same token, I'm leaving and I wanted to either put in the right fuse or leave a note inside the case for the new owner (my roommate already bought a replacement and they plan to put this one in the lobby for someone to take.)   The second store I called had it, even 12 amps, not just 10, but as I expected, only fast-blow. The original was ceramic.   I thought all ceramic fuses were slo-blo, but this one is embossed F12H250 and some webpages say that F means fast-blow???? "The types of fuses include long-time-lag or super-time-lag (TT), fast-acting fuses (FF), quick-blow fuses (F) and slow-blow or time-lag fuses (T)" https://www.hunker.com/13418825/difference-between-ceramic-glass-fuses   Nothing I read decribes why a microwave should need ceramic or slow-blo (in the power part, not the high voltage part).   One page says " Glass has a low rupturing point, such as 15 amperes."   That's fine since it's a 12 amp fuse, and the normal usage is about 7 amps.   " If a high voltage comes down the electrical line, the fuse element will melt.   Are there really surges that come down the line that increase the amperage for normally 7 to over 12?   "The tiny glass fuses are great for small items that don't draw a heavy amount of current and blow on a regular basis. They don't perform well outdoors and can shatter when placed in high temperatures due to its low thermal stability."   Microwave is not used outdoors or at high temperatures.     From before According to the label on the back "The input is 1400 watts, but it's a 220 volt device, so that's less than 7amps normally. So, 10, right? Unless F12 in F12H250 at the top means 12 amps? " And the home.repair people told me it did, but the web says F means fast-blow.   It's a Crystal, model wp900AP23, but no schematic could I find on the web and the one taped inside just shows fuse, no details.

Look165 <look165@numericable.fr>: Mar 29 02:37PM +0100 I've seen no fuse in mine.   Consider the protection is outside and 16A is enough.   micky a écrit le 29/03/2019 à 14:14 :

Rheilly Phoull <rheilly@bigslong.com>: Mar 29 01:30PM +0800 On 28/03/2019 8:07 pm, John-Del wrote:   > Back in the 70s, I wired a momentary switch across the ballast resistor of my car and mounted it on the throttle shaft of my carb. At full throttle the switch bypassed the resistor.   > Between that and turning the air cleaner cover over, the car broke the sound barrier...   > Seriously, it did seem to help at high rpm though.   Hmm, the thought of Mr Tubeguy doing rooster tails on the tractor would be a sight you dont see every day.

ggherold@gmail.com: Mar 29 06:08AM -0700 > Kind of makes me wonder if this resistor needs replacement?   > (The sparkplug wires were replaced about 2 years ago, so they should be > fine, since I dont use the tractor all that much).   Sounds like a question for yesterdays tractor forum https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cgi-bin/boards.cgi   George H.

David Farber <farberbear.unspam@aol.com>: Mar 28 01:11PM -0700 On 3/27/2019 10:48 AM, Adrian Caspersz wrote:   > https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9wwlUNWeVo5smMdOMhcHA6pq6LscB5WMLw2I-IhSVVdhH3GDGO004-htuc9lMnLHl2EVM9MyKRH5HFbXUf0gTN_a3_X1CP3D_fDYqfey-kDn_fzqbCjRiV0PnhNnwn14Ci-TR9f4DRGo/s1600/Dell+5110.JPG   > G2101 is down to the right of G2201 as indicated. You don't want to mess > with G2201, that's something else.   Hi Adrian,   Your above link to the picture of the G2201 location is correct. Please note that it's on the opposite side of the motherboard where the CMOS battery lives. After performing the reset, I went into the BIOS setup menu and set the time and date. Since then, the displayed time is now accurate even after being powered off and then powered back on again. This just goes to show you that removing the CMOS battery does not necessarily reset whatever it was that needed resetting. (At least for this computer)   Thanks to everyone for all your fantastic support!!!   -- David Farber Los Osos, CA

John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Mar 28 09:20AM -0700 On 2019/03/28 5:04 a.m., John-Del wrote:   > LOL! You're a twit Jeff, but the kind of twit I love!!   > Actually, his statement is far more clumsy when written. When said out-loud, it's not nearly as confusing (although admittedly still incorrect). Said out loud, it might sound like two sentences - one a statement, and the other a question asked after considering the statement part.   > Funny stuff though.   Jeeze, I put a comma where it doesn't belong and get a holy !@#$ storm!   (ducking).   Opps!   John ;-#)#

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