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Tomos Davies <cariadmenywod@gmail.com>: Apr 28 03:03PM Anyone have a good idea for making a smoke machine?   My car is 15 years old, and the buna is getting old and tired but they don't make a single kit of all the rubber parts which would be the easy way to avoid making my own smoke tools.   I keep getting a P0171/P0174 (bank 1 and 2 lean condition), which, for my engine, almost always means a crack in the complex hoses, tubes, and pipes, so I want to see if I can build my own smoke machine for about the cost of one diagnostic test by the pros.   A single professional smoke test is about $150 based on a dozen calls today (where most charge a flat diagnostic fee). And the dealer price for replacing all the hoses is estimated at far more than that one test.   I don't want to debate those two points here though (the pro diagnostic or replacing all the rubber) because my intent here is to ask for advice on building my own smoke machine for about one hundred dollars.   Just generating smoke is easy with a diesel glow plug shoved into a paint can with glycerin in it, but you have to generate dense smoke and you have to pump it under a few psi through the engine hoses.   Have you built your own smoke machine for around $100 or less? How did you do it?

ohger1s@gmail.com: Apr 28 08:30AM -0700 On Friday, April 28, 2017 at 11:03:44 AM UTC-4, Tomos Davies wrote: > to pump it under a few psi through the engine hoses.   > Have you built your own smoke machine for around $100 or less? > How did you do it?   There are a lot of videos on youtube that instructs in such a project. Smoke machines are extraordinarily handy in "smoking" out leaks.   My son's Jeep Grand Cherokee has about 300K miles on it and needed to pass emissions (which demands no CEL). My buddy has a pro machine and found seeping hoses, mostly around back near the tank. No smoking gun (yep) but a lot of tiny issues that an old high mileage vehicle will have.

ohger1s@gmail.com: Apr 28 08:35AM -0700 On Friday, April 28, 2017 at 11:03:44 AM UTC-4, Tomos Davies wrote:   > Have you built your own smoke machine for around $100 or less? > How did you do it?   There are a bunch of sellers on ebay providing a pretty good device for $80 including freight. For the time and parts, you can't beat this. They also include a pressure regulator to make sure you don't blast anything in the evap system.   http://www.ebay.com/itm/EVAP-Smoke-Machine-Diagnostic-Emissions-Vacuum-Leak-Detection-Tester-NEW-/301673812635?hash=item463d29129b:g:G5kAAOSw32lYvdZC

"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Apr 28 08:56AM -0700 The troll is back.   Please do not feed the troll.

"David B." <DavidB@nomail.afraid.invalid>: Apr 28 05:16PM +0100 On 28/04/2017 16:03, Tomos Davies wrote: > to pump it under a few psi through the engine hoses.   > Have you built your own smoke machine for around $100 or less? > How did you do it?     I often look on YouTube to find solutions!   Look here, Tomos! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BP2ffBSD2A0   -- The only people who make a difference are the people who believe they can.

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Apr 27 09:51AM -0700 On Thu, 27 Apr 2017 08:48:00 -0400, John Abnarthy <jabnar@excite.net> wrote:   >transfer power of around 12 VDC @ 1 amp between components. Will these >connectors work for that, or is there truly a "balun" that's maybe a >coil of wire that would burn up when used for a power purpose?   Fast answer as I run out the door. Yes, there's a balun inside. This is the BNC version, but the phono plug variety is the same. <http://www.cctvforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=29652> Scroll down for the wiring diagram.   I've used these by the bucket load for security camera installations. Plan on about 5% of what you buy being defective in some manner.   However, they are NOT made to handle DC. The transformer shorts the line at both ends. See wiring diagram above. Also, there's no such thing a speaker wire as I've seen speakers fed with almost every gauge of wire available.   Perhaps it would be helpful if you disclose what you're trying to accomplish and what you have to work with? There are similar device made to handle DC over (for example) CAT5 without shoving DC through a transformer (and causing the core to saturate). -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Apr 27 07:13PM -0700 John Abnarthy wrote:   > transfer power of around 12 VDC @ 1 amp between components. Will these > connectors work for that, or is there truly a "balun" that's maybe a > coil of wire that would burn up when used for a power purpose?   ** Not usable, as others have said already.   2-pin microphone plugs and sockets make excellent DC power connectors - low cost, polarised, short cct proof and very sturdy.   https://www.picclickimg.com/00/s/NzY4WDEwMjQ=/z/-OIAAOSwkx5XEFnd/$/502-Pin-Female-Microphone-Plug-Ham-Radio-CB-MicF2PIN-_57.jpg     ..... Phil

thekmanrocks@gmail.com: Apr 27 03:22PM -0700 Here is link to unit like ours, for sale: https://m.grainger.com/mobile/product/DAYTON-Cast-Iron-5W630   Issue: Dryer blower in mens room startsup only after multiple presses of button, or, strong slam of button or two.   What is causing it to not start after one press every time? There are no discussions of this issue with this blower on line, anywhere.

Sjouke Burry <burrynulnulfour@ppllaanneett.nnll>: Apr 28 12:42AM +0200 > one press every time? There are > no discussions of this issue with > this blower on line, anywhere.   Loose wire, or broken button, or damaged motorwinding, or........................

Clifford Heath <no.spam@please.net>: Apr 28 08:42AM +1000 > one press every time? There are > no discussions of this issue with > this blower on line, anywhere.   Burnt contacts in the switch, or loose and corroded wiring to it.   Failing armature, commutator or brushes in the motor.   Maybe other things. But that's where I'd look first.

thekmanrocks@gmail.com: Apr 27 04:08PM -0700 Thanks Jouke, Clifford:   These machines are so ubiquitous you'd think there would be tons of threads about them, and service manuals online.

oldschool@tubes.com: Apr 27 06:37PM -0400 On Fri, 28 Apr 2017 08:42:15 +1000, Clifford Heath <no.spam@please.net> wrote:     >Burnt contacts in the switch, or loose and corroded wiring to it.   >Failing armature, commutator or brushes in the motor.   >Maybe other things. But that's where I'd look first.   Or just replace it with a paper towel dispenser..... The towels work without drying your hands on your pants before using that worthless hand dryer.....

John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Apr 27 04:51PM -0700 On 2017/04/27 3:42 PM, Sjouke Burry wrote:   > Loose wire, or > broken button, or > damaged motorwinding, or........................   if none of the above then contact the manufacturers' help line!   If cheap knock-off, buy a better quality unit.   John :-#)#   -- (Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup) John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9 (604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) www.flippers.com "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."

Adrian Caspersz <email@here.invalid>: Apr 28 01:41AM +0100 > one press every time? There are > no discussions of this issue with > this blower on line, anywhere.   Looking at that image, it looks like a copy/clone/license of another brand called 'World Dryer'.   A youtube video shows a synchronous motor in the guts of the timer.   World Dryer Hand Dryer - Playing with the Mechanical Timer Switch (Radio Edit) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KQJbZiPl-tA   https://www.amazon.com/WORLD-DRYER-SWITCH-125F-K-W-CLIPS/dp/B011X7XESI   Could the motor be needing some lubrication to overcome starting inertia?   -- Adrian C

"Ron D." <ron.dozier@gmail.com>: Apr 27 01:39PM -0700 Lenny:   Contact me directly, if you want to see pics of an outdoor eve install HD-8200U that isn't going anywhere. The antenna's are larger these days.   Although I used an Eagle Aspen ROTR-100 and a bearing that both aren't available anymore, I'm really happy with the install.   I didn't quite finish the install in terms of the minor details. The Rotor has a North position and you have to decide if your going to magnetic or real north so, I'm not calibrated yet.   I put the rotor on top of a stainless split collar,so the rotor can be rotated after the fact   I used Black oxide collars for temporary aides to install the antenna. All U-bolts are stainless. The guys are non-metalic and made of Phillystran and the hardware (like turnbuckles) is mostly 316 Stainless   There are two types of gold annodizing and one is really bad.   Two things that I would do differently are: Use a fiberglass mast on the antenna side of things and powder coat a couple of the clamps on the rotor.   You MUST use anti-seize for the stainless bolts. I used a small piece of siameze RG-6 satellite wire from the antenna to inside. The Eagle Aspen controls the rotor via Coax. I chose not to put the antenna on the same coax.   The Aspen rotates like 460 degrees, so it prevents having to go all the way around at times.   There is also 99 presets. Enough for every channel.   So, that's what I have to do: Orient properly so TVfool agrees and set the presets to the channels. I want to do an an antenna combine with a single channel antenna and get a custom combiner made and installed.   An IR to RF repeater works fine. There are lots of ways to do multi IR including over Ethernet.   The "bad thing" about this rotor is that the displayed position is the "desired position", not the current position unless the motor is stopped.   But this particular unavailable rotor has an index so it will never get out of sync.

Foxs Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Apr 27 11:44AM -0500 On 4/27/2017 11:26 AM, analogdial wrote: > Yes they do and we are seeing the failures now. But it's been > a pretty good run for a paper dielectric cap. > Much better than the wax covered caps.   Who are you kidding? Paper caps were already failing after ten years of service. The Sprague "bumble bees" and Black Beauty capacitors were already known failures by the '60s.       -- Jeff-1.0 wa6fwi http://www.foxsmercantile.com   --- This email has been checked for viruses by AVG. http://www.avg.com

analogdial <analogdial@mail.com>: Apr 27 04:26PM Michael A. Terrell wrote:   >> or wound in perfectly dry conditions. That's nearly impossible. I have >> no doubt caps made under humid conditions failed more quickly than >> caps made during dry times.     Yes they do and we are seeing the failures now. But it's been a pretty good run for a paper dielectric cap. Much better than the wax covered caps.

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