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"Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terrell@earthlink.net>: Apr 29 03:23AM -0400 >> THe condenser helps keep the spark from occurring across the points >> instead of at the spark plug   > I've got no familiarity with what a condenser is (outside of HVAC) in car circuitry. But thanks for saying what it does.     'Condenser' is an outdated name for capacitors.     -- Never piss off an Engineer!   They don't get mad.   They don't get even.   They go for over unity! ;-)

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Apr 29 12:39AM -0700 Michael Terrell wrote:   > 'Condenser' is an outdated name for capacitors.   ** Unless you are talking about "condenser" microphones.   Where the old fashioned name has somehow stuck.       .... Phil

Ralph Mowery <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: Apr 29 10:09AM -0400 In article <3da70b7d-0754-4a92-9b35-5b8292cb2e58@googlegroups.com>, pallison49@gmail.com says...   > ** Unless you are talking about "condenser" microphones.   > Where the old fashioned name has somehow stuck.   Seems that capacitor is most often used in electronics for about the last 50 to 60 years ,but condenser stuck with the one that goes across the points on an engine.

rickman <gnuarm@gmail.com>: Apr 29 10:11AM -0400 >>> ignition circuit with a ballast resistor. Anybody know? >>> Thanks, >>> Eric   I don't actually see the rest of this thread, did this question get an answer?   The reason the resistor is there is to limit the current in the coil when the ignition is on but the starter is not engaged. When you crank the starter the batter voltage is low, so the resistor is cut out of the circuit by a relay or switch to give a good spark. The rest of the time the resistor is there to limit the current when the battery is at full voltage.   --   Rick C

rickman <gnuarm@gmail.com>: Apr 29 10:12AM -0400 On 4/29/2017 10:09 AM, Ralph Mowery wrote:   > Seems that capacitor is most often used in electronics for about the > last 50 to 60 years ,but condenser stuck with the one that goes across > the points on an engine.   Just like they still call them points when they are shaped like buttons.   --   Rick C

"Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terrell@earthlink.net>: Apr 29 03:47AM -0400 > It's a Altec Lansing 9444A power amp. It appears it was made around 1988 > to 1990. > And Altec Lansing is top of the line equipment.     It was popular for industrial and commercial sound systems. It was a US company, and I've seen their equipment for decades. I've been out of the business for years, so I don't know if they are still around.   Some stadiums used their equipment, with thousands of watts of amplification, with each amp driving a single zone. Some had N+1 installations that would automatically switch a spare amp into service if needed.     > buy or make some adapters so I can connect 1/4" or RCA jacks to it for > home use. But I know that my speakers wont handle that full power > either, but I suppose I don't have to run it wide open either....     Here is the manual, which shows how to connect an unbalanced input.   <https://www.manualslib.com/download/365773/Altec-Lansing-9444a-Power-Amplifier.html>     -- Never piss off an Engineer!   They don't get mad.   They don't get even.   They go for over unity! ;-)

"Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terrell@earthlink.net>: Apr 29 03:21AM -0400 John Abnarthy wrote: > transfer power of around 12 VDC @ 1 amp between components. Will these > connectors work for that, or is there truly a "balun" that's maybe a > coil of wire that would burn up when used for a power purpose?     I would use these CCTV power connectors:   2-1-x-5-5mm-DC-Power-12V-Male-Female-Jack-Adapter-Plug-Connector-for-CCTV-Camera     http://www.ebay.com/itm/221808269068     -- Never piss off an Engineer!   They don't get mad.   They don't get even.   They go for over unity! ;-)

clare@snyder.on.ca: Apr 28 03:28PM -0400 Buy a special effects smoke machine like the ones that always go on sale around Halloween and mash together some adapter fittings. I bought one on Kijiji for something like $20 Canadian(including a "bottle of smoke"     On Fri, 28 Apr 2017 15:03:41 -0000 (UTC), Tomos Davies

Tomos Davies <cariadmenywod@gmail.com>: Apr 28 08:00PM > https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BP2ffBSD2A0   Nice link! Since I watched it, I'll summrize for those who didn't.   < 1 > Paint can < 2 > Drill two 1/2-inch holes in the lid < 3 > Screw in male-threaded quick-connect for air hoses < 4 > RTV them or put a nut to prevent air leaks < 5 > 3/8-inch tubing on the quick connect < 6 > Regulate air compressor to 2 to 5 psi to test for leaks < 7 > Wet half a rag with baby oil & place in the paint can < 8 > Light the top of the rag and cap the paint can < 9 > INLET is 2psi from the air compressor < 10 > OUTLET is 3/8-inch vinyl tubing filling with smoke Then on the vehicle < 11 > Pull off the power brake vacuum hose from the manifold < 12 > Remove throttle body tube & block the throttle body < 13 > Connect to intake manifold where the brake booster went < 14 > Look for smoke!   The theory is that the fire can be kept going with the air coming in from the compressor and the air pressure of 2psi will push the smoke through the vehicle plumbing.   The caution is that most air compressors don't have a regulator that can go that low reliably, and you don't want too much psi or you cause leaks.   I wonder if a diesel glow plug and hookup to the car battery will be better for generating the smoke from the rag soaked in baby oil (he said mineral oil is the same thing I think).

Tomos Davies <cariadmenywod@gmail.com>: Apr 28 08:04PM In <news:rq57gc1r7qvamvrfr42ogqmcg7a17f84bd@4ax.com>, clare@snyder.on.ca suggested:   > sale around Halloween and mash together some adapter fittings. > I bought one on Kijiji for something like $20 Canadian(including a > "bottle of smoke"   They may work if they have about 2psi of air pressure (or if it can be bottled somehow to leak 2psi through a 3/8ths inch vinyl hose.

jurb6006@gmail.com: Apr 28 03:31PM -0700 There's an easier way to find a vacuum leak.   Disconnect the throttle control motor and spray the hoses with ether, which is starting fluid. When the RPMs go up, there's your leak.   This will set a code so if it is OBD2 you'll need a method to reset it.

ohger1s@gmail.com: Apr 28 04:03PM -0700 > There's an easier way to find a vacuum leak.   > Disconnect the throttle control motor and spray the hoses with ether, which is starting fluid. When the RPMs go up, there's your leak.   > This will set a code so if it is OBD2 you'll need a method to reset it.   Around the engine yes, but there are vacuum lines running all the way back to the gas tank. I had a small evap leak code on one of my cars and it was a bad gas cap. No propane or ether would induce an rpm change back there.

clare@snyder.on.ca: Apr 28 08:33PM -0400 On Fri, 28 Apr 2017 20:00:44 -0000 (UTC), Tomos Davies   >I wonder if a diesel glow plug and hookup to the car battery will be better >for generating the smoke from the rag soaked in baby oil (he said mineral >oil is the same thing I think). Use a propane regulator to regulate the pressure down to the 2psi range., and yes, most baby oil is "mineral oil" and yes a deisel glow plug can be used to make the smoke - just make sure it is a 12 volt glow plug, not one that is connected in a series string. I've got a fog machine - a little more elegany solution with less danger and still to a degree DIY - and a lot cheaper than the "made for the job" unit.

clare@snyder.on.ca: Apr 28 08:39PM -0400 On Fri, 28 Apr 2017 20:04:00 -0000 (UTC), Tomos Davies >> "bottle of smoke"   >They may work if they have about 2psi of air pressure (or if it can be >bottled somehow to leak 2psi through a 3/8ths inch vinyl hose. Not sure what the actual pressure is but it is enough to disburse the smoke throughout the system and not enough to damage anytging - particularly if you use a rubber glove as a "plug" on the intake system.As long as you are not "given the finger" by the glove, the pressure is safe - and you control it with the "trigger" button. I have not made the custom adapter yet, but I plan on making a sort of "heat exchanger" to fasten to the outlet to cool it before connecting the hose. An aluminum or copper "pipe" with fins fastened or machined on it.

Cursitor Doom <curd@notformail.com>: Apr 28 05:41PM On Thu, 27 Apr 2017 14:29:07 -0700, tabbypurr wrote:   > think of those figures? IME pre-war paper caps are highly suspect. I'd > rather establish what I can before subbing it, as the construction of > the whole thing is rather characterful.   I've a few boxes full of oil/paper metal-cased capacitors I could test for comparison purposes if needs be, Tabby, but I've added s.e.r in case some kind soul there will know the answer off the top of their heads first.

"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Apr 28 11:58AM -0700 > > think of those figures? IME pre-war paper caps are highly suspect. I'd > > rather establish what I can before subbing it, as the construction of > > the whole thing is rather characterful.   What, if anything, are the markings on the caps themselves?   You ought to be able to screen a modern film cap to within a very few percent of the OEM values, go high on the voltage parameters, and go from there.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

ohger1s@gmail.com: Apr 28 03:13PM -0700 Depends which war..

makolber@yahoo.com: Apr 28 02:09PM -0700 OP also consider in many tube applications the coupling cap has plate voltage on one side like 250V and feeds a 100k grid resistor on the other side.   It doesn't take much leakage to upset the grid voltage.   m

rickman <gnuarm@gmail.com>: Apr 28 01:44PM -0400 On 4/24/2017 6:00 PM, Foxs Mercantile wrote: >> no clue where the trash goes once it's removed from your >> property and have no clue where your food comes from either.   > You're an amazingly ignorant fuck.   Rather than just berate him you could try explaining that burning plastic and wood and especially wood with various paints and varnishes dumps incomplete combustion products into the air. Large scale burning of waste is done at high temps that completely burns to CO2 and H2O so there is much fewer toxins in the air and the ash. But heavy metals and other toxic compounds remain in the ash. With industrial processes the ash is treated like what it is, toxic waste.   --   Rick C

rickman <gnuarm@gmail.com>: Apr 28 01:55PM -0400 > radios and even some old test equipment and sometimes some electric > motors and other stuff like that.   > The idiot state government shut them down,   What makes you think the "government" shut them down? More likely they just weren't viable and went out of business.     > money by charging everyone $20 or more (per piece) to get rid of > electronic waste. A TV costs $20. A computer is (I think) the same, and > if that computer includes a monitor and printer, that's 3 items, or $60.   Sounds like a good reason to tear computers and such to pieces and dispose of the components. It takes maybe 5-10 minutes to disassemble a computer to circuit boards and small boxes and sheet metal. If there is no law against tossing pieces, then you are good to go. With RoHS there is very, very little harmful substances in electronics now.     > going to the landfill. What a damn waste. I used to love going to that > store, and shopping for cheap electronic stuff. And if something failed > within 2 weeks it could be returned and exchanged for something similar.   If the business model was viable you would see them all over the country. You don't so...     > at, but it employed 20 or 30 disabled people, who took that stuff apart, > tested the parts, and ran the store. It's been about 10 years since the > damn state ruined that business and got greedy.   I really would like to know how you can say the state "ruined" that business.     > plastics. But I do recycle all metals. On the rare occasion I have to > dispose of a CRT, I smash it in a box, and toss it in a dumpster at some > local business. I really do not know what else I can do.   Lol! You don't want to pay to dispose of your trash, so you illegally toss it in someone else's dumpster?     > a bag, I always say "NO". Then some of the idiot clerks put my stuff in > a bag right after I said "NO". That's when I tend to get a little rude > and say "I just told you NO BAG, remove it from the bag"....   It is *very* easy to control manufacturers. Don't buy their stuff. If we don't buy it they will stop making it. If you don't buy it you don't have to worry with the waste.     > private people, in the name of environment protection. If they were > doing any good, they would attack the producers of all the harmful > packaging and work to find safe alternatives.   Really? This makes sense to you?   --   Rick C

"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Apr 28 11:12AM -0700 On Friday, April 28, 2017 at 1:44:35 PM UTC-4, rickman wrote:   > there is much fewer toxins in the air and the ash. But heavy metals and > other toxic compounds remain in the ash. With industrial processes the > ash is treated like what it is, toxic waste.   Even the Catholic Church - not known for open policies and easy acceptance of alternate truths has a term for this sort of situation:   Invincible Ignorance.   Old School is a self-admitted thief & polluter, generally a fool whose roots are firmly set in the 50s, believes in the concept of "the good old days" (they never were) and is pretty much a lost cause. Not much short of an intellectual cattle-prod will get through his shell, and that only by repeated and assiduous application.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA   On some great and glorious day the plain folks of the land will reach their heart's desire at last, and the White House will be adorned by a downright moron.   H.L. Mencken

Foxs Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Apr 28 01:34PM -0500 On 4/28/2017 12:55 PM, rickman wrote: > Really? This makes sense to you?   And this is why I said: "You're an amazingly ignorant fuck."   Now you know.   -- Jeff-1.0 wa6fwi http://www.foxsmercantile.com   --- This email has been checked for viruses by AVG. http://www.avg.com

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