Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 6 updates in 3 topics

"mikespo@live.com" <mikespo@live.com>: Sep 21 10:24PM -0700

Hello all-knowing ones.....
Heard a slight "pop" from my TC-P42S30, then went black. Turning it back on yielded a black screen, the red power light blinking 14 times. Tried a couple of fixes mentioned online (removing remote batteries then pressing some remote buttons/holding the power button on the set while pressing one of the "up" buttons/leaving set unplugged for 24 hours) No change other than the red power light is on but no longer blinks.Not really skilled enough to open the back of the set. Any other suggestions or advice would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
legg <legg@nospam.magma.ca>: Sep 22 07:08AM -0400

On Wed, 21 Sep 2022 22:24:50 -0700 (PDT), "mikespo@live.com"
 
>Hello all-knowing ones.....
>Heard a slight "pop" from my TC-P42S30, then went black. Turning it back on yielded a black screen, the red power light blinking 14 times. Tried a couple of fixes mentioned online (removing remote batteries then pressing some remote buttons/holding the power button on the set while pressing one of the "up" buttons/leaving set unplugged for 24 hours) No change other than the red power light is on but no longer blinks.Not really skilled enough to open the back of the set. Any other suggestions or advice would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
 
You're probably looking at driver board replacement,
but you'll have to open it up, just to check the fuse.
 
If you're not comfortable with this, consider taking
it to a listed service location.
 
Plasmas are no longer in production.
 
RL
Mark Lloyd <not.email@all.invalid>: Sep 21 12:53PM -0500

On 9/21/22 01:21, Charlie+ wrote:
 
[snip]
 
earning remotes work well and are cheap
> enough. All buttons programmable and remembered even if battery goes
> flat. BUT - you do have to have a working unit to learn from even if its
> on its last legs! C+
 
30 years ago I knew someone with an RCA TV where the remote failed, and
a new one cost about $70. RCA (then) did something strange with the
volume buttons so you couldn't use a $10 universal remote.
 
--
95 days until the winter celebration (Sunday, December 25, 2022 12:00:00
AM for 1 day).
 
Mark Lloyd
http://notstupid.us/
 
"Formerly, when religion was strong and science weak, men mistook magic
for medicine; now, when science is strong and religion weak, men mistake
medicine for magic." [Thomas Szasz]
three_jeeps <jjhudak@gmail.com>: Sep 21 11:30AM -0700

On Tuesday, September 20, 2022 at 2:20:10 PM UTC-4, Carlos E.R. wrote:
 
> No one sells that ancient remote control AFAIK.
 
> --
> Cheers, Carlos.
 
Yes, some mfg remote have better longevity than the others. Taking apart the remote control and cleaning the button sheet and the circuit board with alcohol (rubbing@70% or 90%) will remove the oils. The remote should then operate normally. Don't scrub the circuit board - gently wipe it with a antistatic wipe dipped in alcohol. If really in a pinch, a cotton swab/ball will work.
Get used to doing this - I have several remotes that require this cleaning process every 1-3 years, depending on the remote.
At some point in the life of the remote, the conductive coating on the silicon pad keys will erode away and that key function will no longer work. The contact material can be reapplied but since making a contact is a mechanical function, the material will erode again.
Good luck
J
three_jeeps <jjhudak@gmail.com>: Sep 21 11:34AM -0700

On Wednesday, September 21, 2022 at 8:12:10 AM UTC-4, Carlos E.R. wrote:
> still, apparently, intact.
 
> --
> Cheers, Carlos.
I have not seen this happen to kitchen utensils. I have seen it happen to car radio head units, car climate control centers, and hand tools. I don't know of anyway to stop the process or clean up the mess.
legg <legg@nospam.magma.ca>: Sep 21 01:37PM -0400

On Wed, 21 Sep 2022 03:00:54 -0700 (PDT), Jeroni Paul
>> not coment on their lifetime.
 
>I am disappointed with their reliability. I maintain the lights in my bloc of flats and the lift lights years ago used CFL GU10 type bulbs. They were rated a lifetime of 20000h which are 2.5 years as they are always on and they actually lasted about 3.5 years.
 
>Three years ago I installed GU10 led bulbs with a rated lifetime of 50000h, that's 6 years! After two years both bulbs failed with blinking lights. They did not even reach the rated lifetime of CFL. I also see many TV led backlights fail more often than CFL. For now I consider CFL quite more reliable than led.
 
There's a lot of bad design/assembly choices being made in led
replacements for long-tube ccfl replacements.
 
These stem from thermal expansion differences between the led chip
carrier medium and the housing. FR4 doesn't cut it.
 
The use of adhesive simply causes bowing and thermal isolation,
with added mechanical stress on the joints and thermal stress
on the semiconductor.
 
The addition of screw tie-points doesn't correct for this - it
simply determines where the bowing will occur.
 
Only those strips that use a viable thermally conductive substrate
and a slide-able attachment scheme can benefit from semiconductor
reliability, to demonstrate a long operating life.
 
RL
You received this digest because you're subscribed to updates for this group. You can change your settings on the group membership page.
To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it send an email to sci.electronics.repair+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com.

No Response to "Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 6 updates in 3 topics"

Post a Comment