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| bruce bowser <bruce2bowser@gmail.com>: Feb 22 02:54AM -0800 > Just ship it here to Ohio and I'll do it for a small fee, and then probably fix it. But I would guess that round trip shipping would be > like $200 or more. That is if you are closeby, if you are i Califuckingfornia it will of course be more. Some truck drivers get almost > double pay to go there. They also get better money for going to New England. And NYC, they can live well for a month for one trip there. People hate urban areas like all that, though. The idea is to stay out in the hills and shake down family and friends for any extra cash. |
| Abandoned_Trolley <fred@fred-smith.uk>: Feb 22 01:34PM On 07/07/2020 10:30, Trevor Wilson wrote: > **I wanna fix my car, but I don't know anything about engines and > gearboxes. Maybe I can ask some random people on the internet? Thats a fabulous idea Trevor, and to limit the flood of replies, why not use a dud telephone number ? AT |
| Three Jeeps <jjhudak4@gmail.com>: Feb 21 02:18PM -0800 On Thursday, February 18, 2021 at 10:29:25 AM UTC-5, Peter W. wrote: > We have a small 30A @ 240 VAC emergency generator. When it is in use, we run it to a 30A double-pole breaker in the panel, shutting off the main breaker at the same time. That will cover the freezer, refrigerator, boiler a few lights and other miscellaneous items as needed, without having to wire or unwire anything. The feed from the generator is 6/3 SJO cord, and the unit itself is grounded to a properly installed 8' ground rod. The three times we have had to use it for more than a couple of hours, it has worked nicely. Usually, we run a single-ended extension cord to our neighbors for their refrigerator as well. > Peter Wieck > Melrose Park, PA I assume the 30A double-pole breaker is wired to be a transfer switch, else, bad things will happen when the power comes back on. In your configuration, wont you need to drop some load at the load center as I assume all the devices in a 3-4 bedroom house would exceed the power output of the generator? Just re-read the post...30A@240 VAC...probably not. |
| Ralph Mowery <rmowery42@charter.net>: Feb 21 06:09PM -0500 In article <8d5997c1-da64-435c-8f84-1101d097f128n@googlegroups.com>, jjhudak4@gmail.com says... > I assume the 30A double-pole breaker is wired to be a transfer switch, else, bad things will happen when the power comes back on. > In your configuration, wont you need to drop some load at the load center as I assume all the devices in a 3-4 bedroom house would exceed the power output of the generator? Just re-read the post...30A@240 VAC...probably not. Unless the power line going to your house is the only line down, the small generators would most likely trip out their breakers due to trying to power up other houses on the line. I have a small generator 3.5 kw and another 5 Kw and I cut off all my heavy current users such as the water heater and heatpump. I only use one generator at a time as the 3.5 generator is propane powered and I use it for short periods of time . If the power is out longer, I then put gas in the 5 kw one and use it. That way I do not have to worry about gas being left in the fuel system and gunning it up. The 5 Kw unit will power the water heater if it is almost the only load other than a few lights. That way I can heat the water and take a very quick shower if needed. It will also let me use the electric stove for more than one small burner. |
| "Peter W." <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Feb 22 03:52AM -0800 ".... Shutting off the main breaker...." We are a gas-fired, nearly-all-LED house. The loads I will drop for such an event are the hot-tub, the mini-splits, and the TV & audio solid-state electronics. Otherwise, there is more than enough capacity for lighting, refrigeration and heating. Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA |
| Mike Mocha <mocha@mailexcite.com>: Feb 22 06:33AM Just some pointers to anyone having trouble with this handheld LCD scope. I've seen other reports on the web about this model not powering up but no answers. I had one that started to power up intermittenly and then eventually refused to power up at all. It would just make a short chirp beep sometimes when pressing the power button, sometime no beep at all. Long story short, you can get the older service manual here which includes full schematics and board layout. https://archive.org/details/FLUKE_192B_196B_C_199BC_Service/page/n201/ mode/2up They have lots of troubleshooting steps for no power up and so forth, but in my case it was a problem with the soldering of the "D-ASIC" chip (D3500). I think this is a BGA type or something very similar. I fixed it by using the old hot air gun trick. I use a method of putting a tiny piece of 63/37 solder on top of the chip and then aim the gun about 6" away on med-high heat. As soon as the little piece of solder starts getting molten, I quickly move the gun away and apply force down on the chip with the handle of a screwdriver (in this case). I repeated this a few times, then let it cool off and voila! Working perfectly again! |
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