Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 1 update in 1 topic

tabbypurr@gmail.com: Nov 30 05:29AM -0800

On Thursday, 30 November 2017 13:14:06 UTC, John-Del wrote:
 
> > NT
 
> Well, I'm too lazy to look it up myself...
 
> Assuming the citation was correct, there could be a of factors. The first is one Peter pointed out; the U.S. was wired early and without codes. A lot of that wiring still exists and even if thoughtfully wired, is still a hundred years old. Back in the 80s we rented a store front that was still cap and tube wiring from the 1920s, and the new owner wanted us to sign a triple net lease (which means we were liable for any repairs to this late 19th century building, including the wiring and plumbing). Both still were serviceable but we left and bought our own building.
 
Our pre-50s wiring has pretty much all gone now. The rubber used was evidently inferior to the US stuff, when encountering 50s wiring in the 80s it was always in a terrible state with a lot of the rubber insulation fallen off. K&T may be ancient but from what I've seen (on the net) of it it appears to be basically sound in design. Our pre-55 wiring generally wasn't.
 
 
> The large city closest to me uses special equipment for detecting electrical fires. The city includes a large percentage of homes that were built in the late 1800s through the early 1900s. The fire department has infrared scanners that they use to detect heat behind walls during a survey of old wiring.
 
We don't have that, but testing resistances of circuits accomplishes much the same thing. Also the police here do infra red flyovers and sometimes pick up on excess heat. I assume they're looking for drug farms.
 
> Second thought is the definition of electrical fire and the cause. I don't know if there's an international watchdog commission that compiles the data or if the data is submitted by each country independently. Perhaps the definition of what exactly constitutes electrical fires.
 
> I don't know about the U.K., but we have a lot of dullards here that run extension cords to high wattage electrical supplemental heaters for when they can't afford a tank of heating oil or propane. So I wonder how many of these failures are from external misuse or internal infrastructure failures. I can't tell you how many times I've pointed out worn out wall sockets or melted three way extension cords that were ready to burst into flames to customers when doing home service.
 
From what I've seen of US wiring the reason seems pretty obvious, most of it is done to lower safety standards than here. The only odd thing is that Americans seem unable to accept that. Typically they lapse into being abusive when such things are pointed out.
 
 
NT
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 25 updates in 5 topics

Ralph Mowery <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: Nov 29 02:33PM -0500

In article <ovmjjv$jjt$1@dont-email.me>, nospamplease@nonospam.com
says...
> > confidence. BION last time I was so lost, it was late at night and I prayed
> > for half an hour before I got it to work. Much obliged
 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gmDj6i4pGDQ
 
There are 2 connectors I often use instead of wire nuts. I am thinking
schthclock is a brand name for wire nuts. One is like in the video
where you just push in the wires. Brand Wall nuts.
 
The other is WAGO. YOu pull up on a lever, put the wire in and push
the lever back down. They are easy to reuse if you ever need to.
"Gareth Magennis" <soundserviceleeds@outlook.com>: Nov 29 07:48PM

"Ralph Mowery" wrote in message
news:MPG.3488d590ba9e9f299896b3@news.east.earthlink.net...
 
In article <ovmjjv$jjt$1@dont-email.me>, nospamplease@nonospam.com
says...
> > prayed
> > for half an hour before I got it to work. Much obliged
 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gmDj6i4pGDQ
 
There are 2 connectors I often use instead of wire nuts. I am thinking
schthclock is a brand name for wire nuts. One is like in the video
where you just push in the wires. Brand Wall nuts.
 
The other is WAGO. YOu pull up on a lever, put the wire in and push
the lever back down. They are easy to reuse if you ever need to.
 
 
 
********************************************
 
I suspect the OP is referring to these.
In the UK they are commonly known as Choc Block connectors.
 
http://cpc.farnell.com/hellermanntyton/cs15nt/terminal-block-polyethylene-16a/dp/CB15474?CMP=KNC-GUK-CPC-GEN-SHOPPING-HELLERMANNTYTON-CB15474&gross_price=true&mckv=swQRURloc_dc|pcrid|72935675177|kword||match||plid||pid|CB15474|&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIg5WglMbk1wIVzLztCh05NQvYEAQYASABEgLGEfD_BwE
 
 
Gareth.
"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Nov 29 12:20PM -0800

On Wednesday, November 29, 2017 at 2:48:53 PM UTC-5, Gareth Magennis wrote:
 
 
> I suspect the OP is referring to these.
> In the UK they are commonly known as Choc Block connectors.
 
> http://cpc.farnell.com/hellermanntyton/cs15nt/terminal-block-polyethylene-16a/dp/CB15474?CMP=KNC-GUK-CPC-GEN-SHOPPING-HELLERMANNTYTON-CB15474&gross_price=true&mckv=swQRURloc_dc|pcrid|72935675177|kword||match||plid||pid|CB15474|&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIg5WglMbk1wIVzLztCh05NQvYEAQYASABEgLGEfD_BwE
 
They emphatically *DO NOT* meet the US NEC code for branch-wiring - and would be quite dangerous in such an application. Without seeing the actual situation in front of my eyes, I would not dare to opine on a solution. But, if it were my house, and I could not splice safely in the wall-box, I would bite the bullet and go back to the nearest box or back to the panel. It is *JUST NOT WORTH THE RISK* to do any less. I worked my way through school as an electrician, mostly doing old-work repairs and installations in an old city. A good number of the houses I worked in were first wired within a couple of years of 1913, and I learned the are of the "fish wire" from two experts.
 
Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
tabbypurr@gmail.com: Nov 29 12:30PM -0800

> > In the UK they are commonly known as Choc Block connectors.
 
> > http://cpc.farnell.com/hellermanntyton/cs15nt/terminal-block-polyethylene-16a/dp/CB15474?CMP=KNC-GUK-CPC-GEN-SHOPPING-HELLERMANNTYTON-CB15474&gross_price=true&mckv=swQRURloc_dc|pcrid|72935675177|kword||match||plid||pid|CB15474|&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIg5WglMbk1wIVzLztCh05NQvYEAQYASABEgLGEfD_BwE
 
> They emphatically *DO NOT* meet the US NEC code for branch-wiring - and would be quite dangerous in such an application.
 
That's just funny. In UK we use those choc blocks almost entirely, and wire nuts are banned here. We have less electrical fires then the US as a result.
 
 
NT
tschw10117@gmail.com: Nov 29 12:52PM -0800

A lot of people don't know the correct way to use a wire nut. Simply lining up 2 or 3 or 4 wires and twisting the nut on will inevitably result in one or more of the wires not getting tied in tightly, and there is the potential for it to push out, or worse, heat up in use.
 
The correct way is to twist the wires together, and then take a dikes and cut off at least 1/4" of wire at the end of the twist, preferably at an angle. This forces the wires together and creates a gas tight zone at the cut.
 
Then twist the wire nut on. Using the correct size wire nut is critical. Too small a wire nut obviously won't twist on, or will leave bare wire exposed. But too large creates the possibility that the wires are not getting compressed in the nut, no "bite" in the threads, and a likelihood that the nut will work loose when the wires are tucked into the box.
 
It's not rocket science, but doing it right is critical in preventing fires.
John-Del <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Nov 29 12:54PM -0800


> > They emphatically *DO NOT* meet the US NEC code for branch-wiring - and would be quite dangerous in such an application.
 
> That's just funny. In UK we use those choc blocks almost entirely, and wire nuts are banned here. We have less electrical fires then the US as a result.
 
> NT
 
Context? If we're talking total numbers that wouldn't surprise me as the U.S. is far larger than the U.K. If you mean less electrical fires by percentile I'd like to see a citation.
Ralph Mowery <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: Nov 29 03:58PM -0500

In article <BaETB.60457$X11.57146@fx20.am4>,
soundserviceleeds@outlook.com says...
 
> I suspect the OP is referring to these.
> In the UK they are commonly known as Choc Block connectors.
 
> http://cpc.farnell.com/hellermanntyton/cs15nt/terminal-block-polyethylene-16a/dp/CB15474?CMP=KNC-GUK-CPC-GEN-SHOPPING-HELLERMANNTYTON-CB15474&gross_price=true&mckv=swQRURloc_dc|pcrid|72935675177|kword||match||plid||pid|CB15474|&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIg5WglMbk1wIVzLztCh05NQvYEAQYASABEgLGEfD_BwE
 
Problem with people in different conutries. Different electrical codes
and names used for the same items.
 
 
I am in the US. At work one time there was an engineer from England and
he wanted a torch. The mechanics drug a oxygen and gas cylinder torch
with great difficulty to the area. The Englander then explained what he
wanted and it turned out to be a flashlight so he could see in a dark
area.
"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Nov 29 01:01PM -0800

> That's just funny. In UK we use those choc blocks almost entirely, and wire nuts are banned here. We have less electrical fires then the US as a result.
 
That is what happens when one is a first-user of a technology. Electrical wiring from central (regulated) suppliers on a common scheme began in the US in/around 1911, with major cities joining in the grid through the next ten years or so. Rural Electrification began in earnest in 1936 and by 1940, the 'grid' was available to the entire US.
 
Regulated mains power to a common standard was not made available to the common people in GB until starting in 1926, making GB about 15 years behind the US, and much slower on the uptake moving forward. Pretty much everything done in the US was brand-new for the first 15 years or so - and the rest of the world learned from it.
 
Our house was built in 1890, first wired in 1913, and substantially expanded (both the house and the wiring) in 1928. In 2005, the main service was upgraded and grounded wiring extended throughout the house to all branch-circuits and GFCI devices installed in all 'wet' locations - must have cost a fortune!
 
Squigs - as I leaned to call the through-wire devices you are referring to - are fine if they can be screwed down as a terminal strip (and they are approved in that application. But as individual joints, they are quite dangerous. Wire nuts, properly installed, are far tougher and make a far better connection than a single screw bearing on two conductors in a small opening. Twist together first (good mechanical connection), cut square or on a very slight angle, then install the correctly sized wire-nut, very tight. I have done (easily) tens of thousands, and I carried at least five different sizes on any given job. Were signal-wiring involved, that would be four more sizes.
 
Terry: I use linesman's pliers (this one: https://www.amazon.com/Channellock-349-Premium-Wiremaster-Linesman/dp/B00004SBD5 ) and I still have the pair I purchased in 1970 at age 18. Dikes, not so much.
 
Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
tschw10117@gmail.com: Nov 29 01:50PM -0800

Agreed -- it's a better tool (and a better term) and I have several aged pairs myself. Dikes of course implies a cutter-only tool and I usually use mine because sadly, most of the cutting edges in my linesman pliers are badly chewed up from misuse (mostly not by me).
 
Terry
 
 
Clifford Heath <no.spam@please.net>: Nov 30 09:00AM +1100

> Agreed -- it's a better tool (and a better term) and I have several aged pairs myself. Dikes of course implies a cutter-only tool and I usually use mine because sadly, most of the cutting edges in my linesman pliers are badly chewed up from misuse (mostly not by me).
 
I keep meaning to replace mine, bought in 1975,
which have a large divet out of the cutters from
where my father cut through a live 240V 15A cable.
It was adjacent to one he'd deactivated :).
The wire fuse blew the ceramic holder out of the
socket and across the room (the fuse box lid was
open at the time). I still use them most days,
all the same.
"Gareth Magennis" <soundserviceleeds@outlook.com>: Nov 29 10:37PM

wrote in message
news:e5a8fc20-2faa-4dee-a379-09664f31297d@googlegroups.com...
 
On Wednesday, November 29, 2017 at 2:48:53 PM UTC-5, Gareth Magennis wrote:
 
 
> I suspect the OP is referring to these.
> In the UK they are commonly known as Choc Block connectors.
 
> http://cpc.farnell.com/hellermanntyton/cs15nt/terminal-block-polyethylene-16a/dp/CB15474?CMP=KNC-GUK-CPC-GEN-SHOPPING-HELLERMANNTYTON-CB15474&gross_price=true&mckv=swQRURloc_dc|pcrid|72935675177|kword||match||plid||pid|CB15474|&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIg5WglMbk1wIVzLztCh05NQvYEAQYASABEgLGEfD_BwE
 
They emphatically *DO NOT* meet the US NEC code for branch-wiring - and
would be quite dangerous in such an application. Without seeing the actual
situation in front of my eyes, I would not dare to opine on a solution. But,
if it were my house, and I could not splice safely in the wall-box, I would
bite the bullet and go back to the nearest box or back to the panel. It is
*JUST NOT WORTH THE RISK* to do any less. I worked my way through school as
an electrician, mostly doing old-work repairs and installations in an old
city. A good number of the houses I worked in were first wired within a
couple of years of 1913, and I learned the are of the "fish wire" from two
experts.
 
Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
 
 
 
********************************************
 
Interesting.
 
Can you specify what exactly is the problem with using these connectors?
 
 
Gareth.
whit3rd <whit3rd@gmail.com>: Nov 29 03:48PM -0800

> I got a switch that needs replacing but I'm afraid because the last time I
> replaced it the wires were old and the tips broke and i had almost no wire to
> use. An electrician chum told me about scothclock
 
Older wiring (some with cloth insulation) has problems with reworking.
3M sells 'Highland' wire nuts, and 'Scotchlock' crimp or IDC connectors,
which (if used properly) could meet code requirements for wall switch wiring.
 
There's spring push-in items that are easier to use, and quite compact (which
can be important when the box is tight), that can attach a suitable pigtail
for that wire that broke off too short.
Hellerman makes this one:
 
<http://wpc.ac62.edgecastcdn.net/00AC62/drawings/XWC-HPR013CSU_01.pdf>
"Gareth Magennis" <soundserviceleeds@outlook.com>: Nov 30 12:03AM

"Ralph Mowery" wrote in message
news:MPG.3488e984cb52cbc9896b5@news.east.earthlink.net...
 
In article <BaETB.60457$X11.57146@fx20.am4>,
soundserviceleeds@outlook.com says...
 
> I suspect the OP is referring to these.
> In the UK they are commonly known as Choc Block connectors.
 
> http://cpc.farnell.com/hellermanntyton/cs15nt/terminal-block-polyethylene-16a/dp/CB15474?CMP=KNC-GUK-CPC-GEN-SHOPPING-HELLERMANNTYTON-CB15474&gross_price=true&mckv=swQRURloc_dc|pcrid|72935675177|kword||match||plid||pid|CB15474|&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIg5WglMbk1wIVzLztCh05NQvYEAQYASABEgLGEfD_BwE
 
Problem with people in different conutries. Different electrical codes
and names used for the same items.
 
 
I am in the US. At work one time there was an engineer from England and
he wanted a torch. The mechanics drug a oxygen and gas cylinder torch
with great difficulty to the area. The Englander then explained what he
wanted and it turned out to be a flashlight so he could see in a dark
area.
 
 
 
 
****************************************
 
 
What's an "Englender"?
Clifford Heath <no.spam@please.net>: Nov 30 11:06AM +1100

On 30/11/17 11:03, Gareth Magennis wrote:
> wanted and it turned out to be a flashlight so he could see in a dark
> area.
 
> What's an "Englender"?
 
You tell us. You're the first to mention the word.
"Gareth Magennis" <soundserviceleeds@outlook.com>: Nov 30 12:21AM

"Clifford Heath" wrote in message news:tYHTB.452$tM1.129@fx34.iad...
 
On 30/11/17 11:03, Gareth Magennis wrote:
> wanted and it turned out to be a flashlight so he could see in a dark
> area.
 
> What's an "Englender"?
 
You tell us. You're the first to mention the word.
 
********************
 
 
 
Yeah, well, typo.
 
 
The sheer fact that someone thinks "Englander" is a word speaks volumes.
 
 
 
Gareth.
Clifford Heath <no.spam@please.net>: Nov 30 12:14PM +1100

On 30/11/17 11:21, Gareth Magennis wrote:
> ********************
> Yeah, well,  typo.
> The sheer fact that someone thinks "Englander" is a word speaks volumes.
 
But not, apparently, this volume:
<https://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/Englander>
 
Ok, I picked an American dictionary. But "New Englander" is
a term that includes the word, so it's definitely a word.
tabbypurr@gmail.com: Nov 29 07:10PM -0800

On Wednesday, 29 November 2017 20:54:37 UTC, John-Del wrote:
 
> > That's just funny. In UK we use those choc blocks almost entirely, and wire nuts are banned here. We have less electrical fires then the US as a result.
 
> > NT
 
> Context? If we're talking total numbers that wouldn't surprise me as the U.S. is far larger than the U.K. If you mean less electrical fires by percentile I'd like to see a citation.
 
Percentage. It was a while ago I looked it up, US is known for its worse stats on infant mortality and electrical fires. It's way too late to look them up right now.
 
 
NT
tabbypurr@gmail.com: Nov 29 07:20PM -0800

On Wednesday, 29 November 2017 21:01:49 UTC, pf...@aol.com wrote:
NT:
 
> > That's just funny. In UK we use those choc blocks almost entirely, and wire nuts are banned here. We have less electrical fires then the US as a result.
 
> That is what happens when one is a first-user of a technology. Electrical wiring from central (regulated) suppliers on a common scheme began in the US in/around 1911, with major cities joining in the grid through the next ten years or so. Rural Electrification began in earnest in 1936 and by 1940, the 'grid' was available to the entire US.
 
> Regulated mains power to a common standard was not made available to the common people in GB until starting in 1926, making GB about 15 years behind the US, and much slower on the uptake moving forward. Pretty much everything done in the US was brand-new for the first 15 years or so - and the rest of the world learned from it.
 
The unified electrical standard didn't complete here until about 1960. It was a slow business.
 
> Our house was built in 1890, first wired in 1913, and substantially expanded (both the house and the wiring) in 1928. In 2005, the main service was upgraded and grounded wiring extended throughout the house to all branch-circuits and GFCI devices installed in all 'wet' locations - must have cost a fortune!
 
1928 wiring in 2005 would be unthinkable here. Haven't seen anything that old since one exceptional commercial property in the 80s. It was an instant inspection condemnation.
 
 
> Squigs - as I leaned to call the through-wire devices you are referring to - are fine if they can be screwed down as a terminal strip (and they are approved in that application. But as individual joints, they are quite dangerous.
 
I'm not buying it at all. We use them all the time.
 
> Wire nuts, properly installed, are far tougher and make a far better connection than a single screw bearing on two conductors in a small opening. Twist together first (good mechanical connection), cut square or on a very slight angle, then install the correctly sized wire-nut, very tight. I have done (easily) tens of thousands, and I carried at least five different sizes on any given job. Were signal-wiring involved, that would be four more sizes.
 
They were banned here in '55, but I lack further info on that.
 
 
NT
tabbypurr@gmail.com: Nov 29 07:21PM -0800

On Wednesday, 29 November 2017 22:37:50 UTC, Gareth Magennis wrote:
 
> Interesting.
 
> Can you specify what exactly is the problem with using these connectors?
 
> Gareth.
 
They are occasionally found loose. Whether that's due to bad installation or working loose who knows.
 
 
NT
Michael A Terrell <mike.terrell@earthlink.net>: Nov 30 02:46AM -0500

> wire (I didn't last time) but I'd like to see some videos to build up my
> confidence. BION last time I was so lost, it was late at night and I prayed
> for half an hour before I got it to work. Much obliged
 
 
Th proper name is 3M Scotchlocks:
<https://www.google.com/search?num=100&newwindow=1&safe=off&client=firefox-b-1&q=3m+scotch+locks&spell=1&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwih4a3W5uXXAhUPNd8KHX4dApsQvwUIJigA&biw=1434&bih=908>
John-Del <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Nov 30 05:14AM -0800


> > Context? If we're talking total numbers that wouldn't surprise me as the U.S. is far larger than the U.K. If you mean less electrical fires by percentile I'd like to see a citation.
 
> Percentage. It was a while ago I looked it up, US is known for its worse stats on infant mortality and electrical fires. It's way too late to look them up right now.
 
> NT
 
Well, I'm too lazy to look it up myself...
 
Assuming the citation was correct, there could be a of factors. The first is one Peter pointed out; the U.S. was wired early and without codes. A lot of that wiring still exists and even if thoughtfully wired, is still a hundred years old. Back in the 80s we rented a store front that was still cap and tube wiring from the 1920s, and the new owner wanted us to sign a triple net lease (which means we were liable for any repairs to this late 19th century building, including the wiring and plumbing). Both still were serviceable but we left and bought our own building.
 
The large city closest to me uses special equipment for detecting electrical fires. The city includes a large percentage of homes that were built in the late 1800s through the early 1900s. The fire department has infrared scanners that they use to detect heat behind walls during a survey of old wiring.
 
Second thought is the definition of electrical fire and the cause. I don't know if there's an international watchdog commission that compiles the data or if the data is submitted by each country independently. Perhaps the definition of what exactly constitutes electrical fires.
 
I don't know about the U.K., but we have a lot of dullards here that run extension cords to high wattage electrical supplemental heaters for when they can't afford a tank of heating oil or propane. So I wonder how many of these failures are from external misuse or internal infrastructure failures. I can't tell you how many times I've pointed out worn out wall sockets or melted three way extension cords that were ready to burst into flames to customers when doing home service.
Michael A Terrell <mike.terrell@earthlink.net>: Nov 30 02:54AM -0500


> c) Any unnecessary equipment adds a degree of unnecessary complexity - and with it an opportunity for error. I have a 110/220 step-up/down transformer purchased in Saudi Arabia with no markings at all. It came with a Euro/US adaptor that could plug into either side. So, I engraved "High Side" and "Low Side" on. Imagine me going the 'wrong way' in actual use. Not so bad going from 110 to 55 volts. But 220 - 440 V, not so good either.
 
 
That transformer would saturate and either blow a fuse, or overheat
if you fed 220 into a 110 winding, unless it is way over designed. It
would be a 220 to 440 transformer being used at a lower voltage if it
could handle 220 on the 110 winding.
John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Nov 29 03:31PM -0800

Anyone using one of these, or has one in a junk drawer? Mine appears to
have either a bad 29F040AT-90 or 29F080T-90. Machine gets to Write
Memory OK! 7FFFF, in memory test then craps out saying Verify Memory
ERROR! 0 0 0
 
The device programs up to 2MB with no problems, but it gets bad writes
on 4MB devices, verifies fine though.
 
My hope is someone else has the sub-memory board (labelled SPABUF) on a
used/dead machine or has one or more of these TSOP style chips in their
junk box they would sell and ship to me.
 
I am going to get a newer Xeltek (600P) but this old timer (2000+) is
nice to have as a spare in case something goes wrong with its replacement.
 
Heck I have a pair of SuperProZs, and a SuperPro2 as backups to the
2000+, and Data I/O 29Bs...
 
Thanks,
 
John :-#)#
--
(Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup)
John's Jukes Ltd.
MOVED to #7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3
(604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
www.flippers.com
"Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."
bruce2bowser@gmail.com: Nov 29 02:24PM -0800


> The devices that plug into the cigarette lighter and play sound from a
> USB drive through car radio speakers have the ability to remember where
> they left off,
 
if they are programmed specifically to do so.
 
> and, even when power is removed from them when the car is
> turned off, they restart from the start of the file or segment, often
> the start of a song, that had been playing when the car was turned off.
 
if they are programmed specifically to do so.
 
> My question is, How does the device keep track of where to start up
> again.
 
they are programmed specifically to do so.
 
> Is there a file written to the device that plugs into the
> cigarette lighter, or is it written to the USB drive?
 
There is hardware allowing both to be programmed for that purpose
 
> If to the device itself, will it look for a specific file name if a different USB drive
> is plugged in, or can it be fooled then into trying to play song 6, for
> example, on a different usb drive.
 
Computer viruses can sometimes re-program a USB or other device to suit its purposes. For example, notice that font types, sounds or colors may change seemingly for no reason.
etpm@whidbey.com: Nov 29 09:19AM -0800

On Mon, 27 Nov 2017 17:32:43 -0600, Jon Elson <jmelson@wustl.edu>
wrote:
 
 
>Also, in the early days, they ran the alternators off steam engines, and the
>AC had a definite pulsation with each stroke of the piston.
 
>Jon
Greetings Jon,
Do you know how the harmonics were measured? Did they use an
oscillograph? I am amazed by how much good science was done with such
relatively simple instruments. And by how much was discovered and
figured out when many measurements took so long and then doing the
math that also took so long.
Eric
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 16 updates in 8 topics

sam@repairfaq.org (Samuel M. Goldwasser): Nov 29 10:47AM -0500

Purchased Original Apple 5 W charger on eBay in sealed box. Very
convincing but almost certainly all a fake:
 
http://repairfaq.cis.upenn.edu/Misc/audiofaq.htm#audipafc1
 
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Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
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sam@repairfaq.org (Samuel M. Goldwasser): Nov 29 10:52AM -0500

Purchased a 5 W A1385 on eBay sealed in Apple box. Very convincing but
almost certainly fake:
 
http://repairfaq.cis.upenn.edu/Misc/audiofaq.htm#audipafc1
 
--
sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html
 
Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is
ignored unless my full name AND either lasers or electronics is included in the
subject line. Or, you can contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.
sam@repairfaq.org (Samuel M. Goldwasser): Nov 29 10:53AM -0500

Purchased 5 W cube on eBay in sealed Apple box, but almost certainly all fake:
 
http://repairfaq.cis.upenn.edu/Misc/audiofaq.htm#audipafc1
 
--
sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html
 
Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is
ignored unless my full name AND either lasers or electronics is included in the
subject line. Or, you can contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.
Taxed and Spent <nospamplease@nonospam.com>: Nov 29 07:26AM -0800

> wire (I didn't last time) but I'd like to see some videos to build up my
> confidence. BION last time I was so lost, it was late at night and I prayed
> for half an hour before I got it to work. Much obliged
 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gmDj6i4pGDQ
Hugo <f6ceedb9c75b52f7fcc0a55cf0cfbf5d_1089@example.com>: Nov 29 02:37PM

responding to
http://www.electrondepot.com/repair/icepower-200asc-amp-module-165648-.htm ,
Hugo wrote:
Thanks for all the puzzle pieces folks, the bottom octave is back!!
 
High voltage cap, fuse in the right place.. all good!
 
Really appreciate the assistance ?
 
jurb6006@gmail.com: Nov 28 10:07AM -0800

Been there - no good.
Foxs Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Nov 29 04:37AM -0600

> All my sources have let me down.
 
I thought you claimed to be able to work on anything without
a schematic.
 
--
Jeff-1.0
wa6fwi
http://www.foxsmercantile.com
jurb6006@gmail.com: Nov 29 02:57AM -0800

Not ANYTHING. Not with microprocessors especially. Actually I can still but I can only go so far.
 
It is still a hell of alot easier with a print than without.
 
Looks like I will have to prove it on this. It wil take a hell of alot more time. After all it is only a 200 WPC amp.
whit3rd <whit3rd@gmail.com>: Nov 28 03:08PM -0800

On Tuesday, November 28, 2017 at 12:48:01 AM UTC-8, GS wrote:
 
> Commercial isolation transformers get rid of common mode noise, and since
> one leg of output is tied to ground, forms a new local neutral.
 
That's only true of SOME isolation transformers; the ones used for
bench safety when working on live equipment do NOT make the
neutral-ground connection.
tabbypurr@gmail.com: Nov 28 04:40PM -0800

On Tuesday, 28 November 2017 23:08:59 UTC, whit3rd wrote:
 
> That's only true of SOME isolation transformers; the ones used for
> bench safety when working on live equipment do NOT make the
> neutral-ground connection.
 
quite. And building site transformers earth the centre tap.
 
Re noise, there's the capacitance...
 
 
NT
gregz <zekor@comcast.net>: Nov 29 08:22AM


> That's only true of SOME isolation transformers; the ones used for
> bench safety when working on live equipment do NOT make the
> neutral-ground connection.
 
All commercial isolation transformers must inform to code. All Tripplite
isolators are grounded. It worries me some think it's all the same. Easy
enough to examine or measure. Still can be a problem on equipment needing a
ground configuration for the circuitry.
 
Greg
whit3rd <whit3rd@gmail.com>: Nov 29 01:24AM -0800

On Wednesday, November 29, 2017 at 12:22:46 AM UTC-8, GS wrote:
> > neutral-ground connection.
 
> All commercial isolation transformers must inform to code. All Tripplite
> isolators are grounded.
 
Commercial isolation transformers are leakage-tested, but the ground-neutral
connection is not always present.
 
Tripplite also makes smart power strips that won't work if plugged into
an isolation transformer that doesn't strap ground-to-neutral. So, they
work with isolated (hospitals, sometimes) power only if you add a Tripplite isolator.
 
details are here, in the reviews section:
<https://www.tripplite.com/for-patient-care-vicinity-ul-60601-1-medical-grade-ps-4-15a-hospital-grade-outlets-safety-covers-15-ft-cord~PS415HGULTRA/>
amdx <nojunk@knology.net>: Nov 28 12:36PM -0600

On 11/22/2017 5:43 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
> that it was Airplane Mode that was turned off, not Location Services.
> They're quite different.
 
> Just ignore me. Maybe a turkey overdose will help.
 
Here's a video showing all the travel the phone owner did, his voice
messages, many things. He shows how to stop it and if you want to stop
all of it.
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4xgLhjTLn7Q
 
Interesting video,
Mikek
tabbypurr@gmail.com: Nov 28 04:42PM -0800

On Tuesday, 28 November 2017 18:36:41 UTC, amdx wrote:
> > https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4xgLhjTLn7Q
 
> Interesting video,
> Mikek
 
I've not seen it so far, but do you really think a large organisation co-opted into providing 'data' on its users would really turn that off just because you ask them? Do governments usually work that way?
Tim R <timothy42b@aol.com>: Nov 28 03:28PM -0800

On Monday, November 27, 2017 at 7:03:48 PM UTC-5, John-Del wrote:
> > AC had a definite pulsation with each stroke of the piston.
 
> > Jon
 
> I would have thought they'd be using a nearly infinite mass flywheel to stave off power pulses.
 
We had a power plant on site with huge diesel generators, low speed (300 rpm). They did have huge flywheels. I never knew how clean the power was. They were built to power an entire block of buildings, but by this time they were peak shaving only, and have since been scrapped. Very impressive, the floor shook when they ran.
frank <frank@invalid.net>: Nov 28 09:53PM

Hi all,
I own an old Tektronix 4107 serial terminal, not really useful, but I
like having working pieces of history. It used to work, but after some
years of storage, it doesn't work anymore. It powers up, fan spins, some
led on the PCBs lighten up, the caps-lock led on the keyboard flashes forever.
The reset button doesn't seem to do anything, screen remains dark unless
I press the self-test button and then it becomes white-ish with raster
lines visible but not equally spaced it seems.
I've been unable to find a service manual or even only a schematic on
the net and I've stared at the thing wondering how one is supposed
to start removing the electronic boards (there's a huge amount of
electronics in this 1983 terminal).
I would start probing the vital signals of the CPU and so on, but
it's really hard without even knowing how the boards are supposed to
be estracted from the case.
Now, I'm sure someone out there has a service manual lying around,
so I'd appreciate a copy of it (just kidding, but, why not asking)?
 
Any hint/help is welcome.
 
Best regards
 
Frank IZ8DWF
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 15 updates in 6 topics

jurb6006@gmail.com: Nov 28 12:10AM -0800

All my sources have let me down.
 
It has some sort of microprocessor type problem, if I can't fix that I need to modify it for use as a separate [pert amp. The guy needs alor of power to keep up with live drums.
"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Nov 28 04:18AM -0800

> All my sources have let me down.
 
> It has some sort of microprocessor type problem, if I can't fix that I need to modify it for use as a separate [pert amp. The guy needs alor of power to keep up with live drums.
 
 
https://ibzdckwfk.files.wordpress.com/2015/06/marantz-sr940-service-manual.pdf
 
If you trust the source.
 
Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
"pfjw@aol.com" <pfjw@aol.com>: Nov 27 09:27AM -0800

Some basics:
 
a) Isolation transformers are designed to protect users under some conditions, and *certain* types of equipment under *VERY* limited conditions. Those latter applications are primarily under hospital and research conditions where an isolated ground is not enough. Generally, RF-shielded rooms use isolation transformers in their power-supplies, for example. But, no equipment protects against deliberate stupidity or carelessness. If one inserts oneself into the circuit, one will be stung.
 
b) Voltage adjustment transformers tend to be as inexpensive as possible per-watt. A true isolation transformer would have very nearly twice as much conductor in it as a simple auto-transformer. Not t mention more core material as well - I am careful not to use 'copper' or 'iron', as very cheap devices will use neither.
 
c) Any unnecessary equipment adds a degree of unnecessary complexity - and with it an opportunity for error. I have a 110/220 step-up/down transformer purchased in Saudi Arabia with no markings at all. It came with a Euro/US adaptor that could plug into either side. So, I engraved "High Side" and "Low Side" on. Imagine me going the 'wrong way' in actual use. Not so bad going from 110 to 55 volts. But 220 - 440 V, not so good either.
 
If you need to step up/down, check the equipment. A surprising amount of vintage audio equipment has multi-tap primary transformers that might require only a simple change in wiring, and a surprising amount of modern consumer electronics have smart supplies that do it all automatically. Otherwise, a brand-name surge protector (with a downline equipment warranty) will be your best option to protect your equipment.
 
Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA
gregz <zekor@comcast.net>: Nov 28 08:47AM

>> Trevor Wilson
>> www.rageaudio.com.au
 
> to protect my equipment, i picked up a new hobby.
 
Commercial isolation transformers get rid of common mode noise, and since
one leg of output is tied to ground, forms a new local neutral. This
prevents noise differentials between ground and output. There is always
voltage sag, so a120 vol output is at full load. More perhaps too much with
small load. Could be 10- 15% over 120 volts. This is not a test transformer
with isolated output from ground referenced mains. Some have voltage
regulation too.
 
Greg
vjp2.at@at.BioStrategist.dot.dot.com: Nov 27 09:42PM

It's under another (KVM'd) computer and I don't really have the space to
leave it open a week, so I'm trying to guess how/if to replace the power supply.
 
(how)
 
Amazon sells a cheap one as Apevia ATX-VS450W Venus 450W ATX It seems the
specs are GATEWAY POW0016A01 145 WATT POWER SUPPLY P5-75 P5-120 ASTEC
SA145-3435 and that (I guess) my main issue is the bus. The cheapest exact
match I've found sells for five times the one on Amazon. Is there such a
thing as a "universal" power supply?
 
(if)
 
Now, what seems to be wrong? I hadn't touche dth emachine all summer. THen it
went on but couldn't find the hard drive. Evetually after about ten times it
did. It worked daily for about ten days. I didn't use it for about a month,
after which it refuses to turn on. So I'm GUESSING it's the power supply.
 
 
- = -
Vasos Panagiotopoulos, Columbia'81+, Reagan, Mozart, Pindus
blog: panix.com/~vjp2/ruminatn.htm - = - web: panix.com/~vjp2/vasos.htm
facebook.com/vasjpan2 - linkedin.com/in/vasjpan02 - biostrategist.com
---{Nothing herein constitutes advice. Everything fully disclaimed.}---
tabbypurr@gmail.com: Nov 27 01:47PM -0800

> went on but couldn't find the hard drive. Evetually after about ten times it
> did. It worked daily for about ten days. I didn't use it for about a month,
> after which it refuses to turn on. So I'm GUESSING it's the power supply.
 
probably bad caps in either PSU or on the mobo. A component tester could probably tell you their ESR.
 
 
NT
jurb6006@gmail.com: Nov 28 12:18AM -0800

They are standardized but Gateway doesn't use a standard one usually.
 
I agree on the caps.
 
Companies like Gateway skimp on the power and make the power supply smaller. Nothing else will fit. They will usually work but they would have to be outside the case. And some of them use the power supply fan to cool the microprocessor. That really stickies up the wicket.
 
The only thing you can't get usually is the transformer. But be careful if you have to replace the main chopper. Generally it will be a MOSFET and the ratings not really all that critical, but you need at least like a 700 volt part because they use a line doubler for 110 volts and simply turn it into a regular rectifier for 220 volt operation.
Jon Elson <jmelson@wustl.edu>: Nov 27 02:31PM -0600


> So how do they get the good clean AC from these big generators?
Those big power house alternators have more slots in the stator. The
winding pattern is set up such that the middle of the magnetic pole has more
turns, due to ovelapping sets of coils, than the ends of the pole. This
creates the proper wave shape. Smaller alternators can't have as many
slots, and thus separate coils, so the induced waveform has some "jumps" anf
"flat spots" in it.
 
 
> at home just fine. The fridge, freezer, lights, phone and router. I
> didn't try any computers. So maybe I don't need to even consider
> filtering the generator output.
Right, the inductance of typical motors smooths out the small imperfections
in the voltage wavem and you pretty much get a sine-wave current.
> output" from an inverter that is part of the generator electronics. So
> maybe a pure sine wave is important for some electric or electronic
> stuff. Clocks for example.
Well, some inverter generators produce horrible square waves or stepped
approximations of sine waves, that might cause problems for a variety of
equipment.
 
Running clocks off the typical generator will be a waste of time, the
frequency control will be awful.
 
Jon
etpm@whidbey.com: Nov 27 03:01PM -0800

On Mon, 27 Nov 2017 14:31:49 -0600, Jon Elson <jmelson@wustl.edu>
wrote:
 
 
>Running clocks off the typical generator will be a waste of time, the
>frequency control will be awful.
 
>Jon
Thanks for the reply Jon. Do you think Tesla's generators at Niagara
Falls were made the way you describe? I wouldn't be at all surprised.
Eric
Jon Elson <jmelson@wustl.edu>: Nov 27 05:32PM -0600


> Thanks for the reply Jon. Do you think Tesla's generators at Niagara
> Falls were made the way you describe? I wouldn't be at all surprised.
> Eric
Everything made since about 1890 had some scheme to control the harmonic
problem. The first alternators had "salient poles" on the stator, which
were just blocks of stacked steel laminations with coils wound on them.
But, even with these, it was possible to shape the rotor flux field to
minimize the harmonics. Later, they went to slotted stator lamination
sections that made it possible to have coils that spanned several slots, and
this made harmonics much smaller.
 
Also, in the early days, they ran the alternators off steam engines, and the
AC had a definite pulsation with each stroke of the piston.
 
Jon
John-Del <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Nov 27 04:03PM -0800

On Monday, November 27, 2017 at 6:30:13 PM UTC-5, Jon Elson wrote:
 
> Also, in the early days, they ran the alternators off steam engines, and the
> AC had a definite pulsation with each stroke of the piston.
 
> Jon
 
 
I would have thought they'd be using a nearly infinite mass flywheel to stave off power pulses.
vjp2.at@at.BioStrategist.dot.dot.com: Nov 27 09:45PM

I got a switch that needs replacing but I'm afraid because the last time I
replaced it the wires were old and the tips broke and i had almost no wire to
use. An electrician chum told me about scothclock and I got two spools of
wire (I didn't last time) but I'd like to see some videos to build up my
confidence. BION last time I was so lost, it was late at night and I prayed
for half an hour before I got it to work. Much obliged
 
- = -
Vasos Panagiotopoulos, Columbia'81+, Reagan, Mozart, Pindus
blog: panix.com/~vjp2/ruminatn.htm - = - web: panix.com/~vjp2/vasos.htm
facebook.com/vasjpan2 - linkedin.com/in/vasjpan02 - biostrategist.com
---{Nothing herein constitutes advice. Everything fully disclaimed.}---
tabbypurr@gmail.com: Nov 27 01:53PM -0800

> wire (I didn't last time) but I'd like to see some videos to build up my
> confidence. BION last time I was so lost, it was late at night and I prayed
> for half an hour before I got it to work. Much obliged
 
If you tell us what you're talking about maybe we can help. Then what sort of wire etc.
Jon Elson <jmelson@wustl.edu>: Nov 27 03:13PM -0600


>> Serge
 
> Sounds like the ground end of the pot has come disconnected. Most likely
> where it's soldered, or perhaps inside the pot.
Yes, very frequent problem, especially if the pot is not bolted to the case,
is that the resistance element has cracked. If that is the case, most
likely the pot will have to be replaced.
 
Jon
tabbypurr@gmail.com: Nov 27 01:45PM -0800

On Monday, 27 November 2017 21:11:28 UTC, Jon Elson wrote:
> is that the resistance element has cracked. If that is the case, most
> likely the pot will have to be replaced.
 
> Jon
 
A basic multimeter should determine whether the pot is bad or disconnected.
 
 
NT
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Digest for sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com - 9 updates in 5 topics

"J.B. Wood" <arl_123234@hotmail.com>: Nov 27 06:48AM -0500

On 11/22/2017 03:16 PM, Stu jaxon wrote:
 
> here's the model Norstar ST-750.. it's on ebay for half price used. so more or less this just a surge protector.?
 
That unit appears to be intended for those situations where, say a 120
VAC appliance sold in the U.S. is to be used in another country like the
UK on 240 VAC (also assuming the U.S. appliance can cope with 50 Hz vs
60 Hz). Vice-versa for using a UK-marketed appliance in the U.S. Most
likely it's a single winding transformer with a tap(s), which makes it
an autotransformer (no input-to-output isolation). But it could also
have separate primary and secondary coils. No way to tell from a
picture or not having a schematic. Sincerely,
 
--
J. B. Wood e-mail: arl_123234@hotmail.com
etpm@whidbey.com: Nov 26 11:20AM -0800

Years ago I adjusted a neighbor's generator so that it put out 60
cycles at 120 volts. I used a TEK 465B 'scope to look at the
frequency. I saw the major 60 cycle waveform and then a lot of smaller
waveforms at higher frequencies. I was told that these harmonics were
typical of small generators.
Today I am replacing the voltage regulator on a small generator and
adjusting the governor. I expect I will see the same thing as with my
neighbor's generator.
Looking inside the generator all I see is rotating coils inside a
stationary coil. The rotating coils are energized with DC from the
voltage regulator.
Looking at old power plant pictures and video it looks as if those
giant generators were built the same way. And many of them are still
in use today.
But I know that the sine wave from the wall has been very good for
almost since, if not since, the first generator installation at
Niagara Falls.
So how do they get the good clean AC from these big generators? Or
maybe it's not so clean and is instead filtered. If so how is this
done? And can I do this myself without too much effort? Is the effort
even worth it?
Until the voltage regulator failed on my generator it ran my stuff
at home just fine. The fridge, freezer, lights, phone and router. I
didn't try any computers. So maybe I don't need to even consider
filtering the generator output.
But I do see a lot of generators that advertise "pure sine wave
output" from an inverter that is part of the generator electronics. So
maybe a pure sine wave is important for some electric or electronic
stuff. Clocks for example.
Anyway, thanks for reading. And for any answers too.
Cheers,
Eric
Foxs Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Nov 26 01:39PM -0600

> Anyway, thanks for reading. And for any answers too.
> Cheers,
 
Shameless stolen from a forum about these things:
To begin with, most people, including many equipment manufacturer's,
many electricians, and just about all the average Joe's in the world,
haven't got a damn clue about power quality. And many who do, have no
idea what the effects on power systems, equipment like generators, UPS,
'sensitive electronics equipment', etc., cause. In fact, if the average
person were to take an oscilloscope and look at what they think is a
'pure sine wave' coming from their source, they would be absolutely
horrified; and probably wouldn't be sure if they've made a mistake in
hooking it up. The terms 'dirty power' and 'clean power', generally mean
absolutely nothing in the power industry, and are used mainly by people
who don't know anything about power quality issues; and snake oil
salesmen trying to sell their overpriced products to these very people.
So, let's get some fact's straight.
 
First, most electronics equipment that people think of with bogus terms
like 'sensitive electronics equipment' aren't sensitive at all. In fact,
for the most part; this equipment cares the least about the quality of
its power input. Bear in mind, that most of this equipment first
converts its power source to DC, before using any of it. It will be the
equipment itself, including its filters and voltage regulators that
determines the quality of its DC power - not the source. Yes, there
could be some ripple transmitted to the DC power; but that is primarily
a function of how crappy its power supply is. Most of the buzz about the
need to 'clean up your power' actually comes from manufacturer's selling
equipment that supposedly does just that. And more often than not, it's
pure BS.
 
Computers, PCs, and anything with a switch mode power supply (SMPS),
draws its power in two large bursts of current during each cycle of a
sine wave. It basically doesn't give a crap what the source looks like
as long as there is power to draw. And oppositely, SMPSs do more to
damage the quality of the input power from their source, than anything
else. If you want clean power, don't put SMPSs on circuits with other
equipment. This equipment is designed to function as long as its input
source is within the CBEMA (ITIC) curve. Basically, its designed to
function without rebooting with a very crappy source. This means that
some 90% of equipment people think are 'sensitive electronics', in fact
are not; and also damage the quality of the source horrendously by
loading it up with harmonics.
 
Now, lets talk about UPS. The majority of UPS - especially ones that
cost under $20,000 - simply present a large non-linear power supply to
their source. Just like the SMPSs, they wreak havoc on the power quality
of their source. Someone mentioned 'double-conversion' UPS. Nice; but
clueless. (Sorry.) The output of a double-conversion UPS is almost
always much, much poorer than the source sine wave entering. They use
PWM or some other method to convert the DC back into AC, resulting in
one of the most choppy 'sine waves' one could ever see. Yeah - they
ensure the voltage doesn't drop when their input does; and they filter
transients. However, that's about all they do. Aside from that, the
power quality of their output is horrible. Again, anything under $20,000
and the output is going to look more like a square wave than anything.
(Add capacitance of the circuit, and its much poorer than that.) The
majority of low cost (under $20k) UPS, chop their output into three
squarish looking chunks each half cycle. You have to pay big bucks to
get a 12 or 18 pulse UPS, with adequate input and output filtering. But
its not a problem, because the SMPS equipment that is connected to UPS
systems 99% of the time, doesn't care one bit.
 
Now lets talk generators. Even cheap, low quality ones. Mostly the power
quality problems from cheap generators fall into two issues - varying
input voltage and frequency; and harmonics. Not big deal, because most
of the equipment you load onto a generator, doesn't care about any of
this. Certainly, none of the equipment with SMPSs cares at all. Take a
look at their nameplate. Typically 90 to 240V, 50 or 60 Hz. They will
work at a frequency of probably 30 to 100. As long as your generator
doesn't drop below 90V for more than a second, they will operate just
fine as well. SMPS's generating harmonics into the source may actually
cause more issues for your generator (overheating), than the other way
around.
 
Now for the big surprise. What types of loads have the most concern from
harmonics, voltage and frequency? Motor loads. Harmonics causes the
windings of cheap motors (and generator windings) to overheat. Motors
that deal well with harmonics are made to be run on variable frequency
drives. They cost more money, because they have larger windings, and
often special treatment to their bearings. Obviously, dropping voltages
can cause motors not to start. Minor frequency issues won't upset them;
but should the frequency of your source drift severely, your motors will
have problems. Trying to use a UPS to help this, will only make it worse
- mega harmonics.
 
The generator itself may actually be the most concerned about issues
being generated by its loads. Loads with leading power factor (such as
can happen with loads with high capacitance, large filters or high
harmonics) can wreak havoc on the generator, cause it not to run, and
actually physically damage it. Harmonics being generated by the loads
can add to the harmonics being produced by the generator and cause
over-heating. The only solution for this is to over-size the generator
(or de-rate the one you have). Leading power factor problems are
generally solved by introducing isolation transformers between the
generator and its loads. Isolation transformers go a long way towards
cleaning up the power that a generator or motor is seeing; but to really
work wonders, it needs to be a three-phase system. (3-phase delta-wye
transformers filter out triplen harmonics.) Electrostatic shields
between the windings will improve the transformer's filtering of transients.
 
In addition to motors, there certainly are some other loads that don't
like AC sources with rich harmonics. Could be televisions; not really
sure. Probably, after the issues I've discussed; the most concerning
issue to loads, especially electronics, is transients. These are much
more prevalent from your utility source, than your generator. Switching
transients from the utility opening and closing circuits; as well as
large industrial loads being switched in and out, are the primary
culprits. Nearby lighting strikes are also to blame. The best way to
protect your equipment from these utility power quality problems, is via
high quality surge suppression. So, if you want to waste money in an
attempt to 'clean up your power'; go ahead - plunk down as much as you
can afford and buy an expensive UPS. Chances are probably 95% or better,
you've just made your power quality worse. (FYI - UPS are for having
'uninterrupted' power - not quality power.) If you are concerned about
power quality, the first thing to spend your money on is high-quality
surge suppression. That is likely all you need. The only thing more, in
addition to cleaning up transients (an uninterrupted power) that an
expensive double-conversion UPS will give you is a steady output voltage
- at the cost of high harmonic content. Most of your equipment doesn't care.
 
Seriously, what you are trying to do is akin to replacing the carburetor
on a car that is running fine; because you think it may not be running
fine. Don't waste your money trying to fix something that has no
symptoms and is not broken. First, you'll probably make it worse.
Second, you'll be out of a lot of money, that you could have used
usefully for something else. If you really have money burning a hole in
your pocket; hire someone with the equipment and know-how to perform a
power quality study, and provide a proper interpretation. Then spend
money fixing anything that is truly a problem.
 
--
Jeff-1.0
wa6fwi
http://www.foxsmercantile.com
mike <ham789@netzero.net>: Nov 26 04:45PM -0800

On 11/26/2017 11:39 AM, Foxs Mercantile wrote:
> your pocket; hire someone with the equipment and know-how to perform a
> power quality study, and provide a proper interpretation. Then spend
> money fixing anything that is truly a problem.
 
Some classes of electronic devices now require power factor correction.
Would be interesting to see similar comments on the consequences of that.
"Darkmind" <darkmind64@hotmail.com>: Nov 26 12:02PM -0600

I'm in France.
Concerning the problem, the power supply don't start and do the classic "tic tic"noise (I don't know how to say in english in this case...).
however, if i start the psu with no charge or resistive charges and i connect it back on the oscilloscope, it starts normally.
When i turn it off and on again, it doesn't restart...
I already replaced all the electrolytic capacitors by new ones.
I also tried do disable output protections with thyristors (crowbar).
I have tried to add a resistor in parallel with the one that measures the intensity on the hashing transistor in case it's a global consumption or measure problem...
I have measured consumptions on all the outputs but all seems good...
All the output voltages are correct with or without charges, so the regulation is working (independent modules per output).
 
I tried to obtain schematics at Chauvin Arnoux and Skynet electronic (Manufacturer of the PSU) with no success...
 
Thanks for your help.
 
 
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mike <ham789@netzero.net>: Nov 26 04:36PM -0800

On 11/26/2017 10:02 AM, Darkmind wrote:
 
> Le 26 nov. 2017 11:51 ,jurb6006@gmail.com a écrit:
>> Where are you geographically ? Maybe you can sens it to me, I am pretty good at working without a print
 
>> Or you can post the problem and we can knock heads together here on the forum. And pictures would help.
 
If the power switch is a soft switch, it requires power to start.
Older supplies have a set of resistors from power to some input cap.
These go open or increase in value.
Newer supplies may have a completely different 5V standby supply that's
on all the time and powers the starting functions. Typically, there's
a cap in that supply that goes high-ESR...but you've changed ALL the
caps. If the scope uses that supply for other functions, there may be
an increased load somewhere in there. Check for correct volts on the
standby supply, if any, disconnected and connected to the scope.
"Ian Field" <gangprobing.alien1@virginmedia.com>: Nov 26 05:32PM

"~misfit~" <shaun.at.pukekohe@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:ove4i0$64a$1@dont-email.me...
 
> I used to do that until one part-unfolded as I put a cell into my
> favourite flashlight, shorted against part of the top of the flashlight
> referenced to negative and and cooked the switch into oblivion. :-/
 
If I have to - I tin a m3 nut and solder it on. some applications have a
contact spring at both ends, so it isn't an issue.
mike <ham789@netzero.net>: Nov 26 04:29PM -0800

On 11/26/2017 9:32 AM, Ian Field wrote:
>> favourite flashlight, shorted against part of the top of the
>> flashlight referenced to negative and and cooked the switch into
>> oblivion. :-/
 
You can reduce that by coiling the strip in the direction that reduces
the length of unsupported strip. Coil can't fold over as easily.
bud-- <null@void.com>: Nov 26 03:53PM -0600

On 11/9/2017 9:03 AM, Foxs Mercantile wrote:
>> Another thing I always wondered about these small neon lamps, is how
>> come they were always that yellow color. Neon signs have all sorts of
>> colored neon gasses.
 
Neon plasma is red-orange.
 
 
> The depth of your ignorance never fails to amaze me.
 
> <https://sciencing.com/gases-used-neon-signs-5581339.html>
 
A late reply...
 
I'm not particularly impressed by the link information.
Yes you can use other noble gasses in a "neon" sign.
I don't think the other gasses are used much.
 
Actual "neon" signs are transparent glass, and you can see the plasma
discharge in the center of the tube.
 
Almost all the other signs have argon to strike, and a small amount of
mercury, which vaporizes. The mercury arc produces UV. The inside of the
tubes have a phosphor for the color produced. You can not see through
the tube (to what is behind it). They are cold cathode fluorescent lights.
 
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