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Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Feb 27 07:15PM -0600 On 2/27/19 7:10 PM, Peter Jason wrote: > How rude! Your endless brawling with other posters > has got me flummoxed and confused.   You have two choices with Phil, agree with him, or ignore him.   -- "I am a river to my people." Jeff-1.0 WA6FWi http:foxsmercantile.com

Peter Jason <pj@jostle.com>: Feb 28 01:06PM +1100 On Wed, 27 Feb 2019 19:13:47 -0600, Fox's   >> ....er, what can I use as a replacement lubricant?   >What we told you to use to begin with. ><https://caig.com/fader-f-series/>   Thanks, I'll find some & report back.

tabbypurr@gmail.com: Feb 28 12:21AM -0800 On Thursday, 28 February 2019 02:06:07 UTC, Peter Jason wrote:   > >What we told you to use to begin with. > ><https://caig.com/fader-f-series/>   > Thanks, I'll find some & report back.   Petroleum jelly is usable as a lube for electrical things.   Ignore Phil, he's strange.     NT

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Feb 28 12:29AM -0800 tabb.. the Troll puked:     > > Thanks, I'll find some & report back.   > Petroleum jelly is usable as a lube for electrical things.   ** How fascinating.   FYI, Mr NT, Peter Jason has been a notorious troll and resident quarter wit on aus.legal for more than 10 years.       > Ignore Phil,     ** At your peril.     > he's strange.     ** NT is completely demented, he thinks he thinks.   Like most of the autistic fools infesting usenet.       ... Phil

"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Feb 28 04:33AM -0800 > Petroleum jelly is usable as a lube for electrical things.   While true, the nature of the material is such that it is very hard not to use too much. After which, it is impervious to most of the solvents already discussed here. After which it is hard to deliver exactly where it may be needed.   However, if all of the above problems are solved, it is stable, non-volatile, does not harden over time, oxidizes extremely slowly (years) and so forth.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

John-Del <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Feb 28 05:05AM -0800 On Wednesday, February 27, 2019 at 8:09:09 PM UTC-5, Peter Jason wrote:   > >It won't. You've flushed all the lubrication out of > >it.   > ....er, what can I use as a replacement lubricant?     I don't know if it's still around, but in the old days we used to be able to buy a silicone solution to refill the eject pistons in cassette players. You can also use Vaseline. To do so though means taking the control out, taking it apart, and lightly covering all moving surfaces.   Back in the late 70s, I was working on a Sony Trinitron that had no color - zip. I got out the old Sams and traced the lost chroma to the color control. It was arranged like a volume control. No matter how the control was manipulated, there was no sign of color. Throwing a jumper across it restored the chroma. For Shits & Giggles, I flushed the control with Tun'O Lube (a clear, oiless cleaner for degreasing tuners without pissing off the neutralizing trim in RCA mechanical tuners). To my surprise, the color popped back and adjusted normally throughout the range. The only problem was that I had washed out the spooze that Sony filled their controls with to make them feel like they were of high quality and had a heft and weight to them. The customer returned the TV a couple of days later because he didn't like how the control had craploads of endplay and almost no drag as it was rotated. We ordered a new control from Sony to make the guy happy.

Stephen Wolstenholme <steve@easynn.com>: Feb 28 03:27PM On Thu, 28 Feb 2019 04:33:56 -0800 (PST), "pfjw@aol.com"   >However, if all of the above problems are solved, it is stable, non-volatile, does not harden over time, oxidizes extremely slowly (years) and so forth.   >Peter Wieck >Melrose Park, PA   I worked in a TV factory when I was young. When a batch of components arrived from the supplier I had the job of testing potentiometers. It took hours to get through a pack of 100. The track lubricant used by the manufacturer was a dense fat. I've no idea what it was called but it looked like a dense petroleum jelly. Any attempt to clean the track ruined the lubrication. The test was just to make sure the wiper moved smoothly before assembly continued. A component replacement cost time and time cost money!   Steve   -- http://www.npsnn.com

Clifford Heath <no.spam@please.net>: Feb 28 01:31PM +1100 On 28/2/19 12:15 pm, Peter Jason wrote: > Additionally, I can get by on but one shower/week > (except during heat waves and the odd > bone-chilling winter's day.)   This could be why you live alone.

Peter Jason <pj@jostle.com>: Feb 28 02:29PM +1100 On Thu, 28 Feb 2019 13:31:14 +1100, Clifford Heath >> (except during heat waves and the odd >> bone-chilling winter's day.)   >This could be why you live alone. I don't care. Washing too often leaches the skin of natural oils and protective fauna. A occasional cat-lick at the sink keeps one clean & healthy. Don't believe everything advertisers tell you.

Allodoxaphobia <trepidation@example.net>: Feb 28 02:50PM On Thu, 28 Feb 2019 14:29:32 +1100, Peter Jason wrote: > occasional cat-lick at the sink keeps one clean & > healthy. > Don't believe everything advertisers tell you.   And, evaluate carefully the things you see espoused by idiots in the interweb!

makolber@yahoo.com: Feb 27 01:37PM -0800 On Tuesday, February 26, 2019 at 7:38:22 PM UTC-5, David Farber wrote:     > > m   > Every evening I hold the power button down for a couple of seconds until > it powers off completely.   why did you do this..?   it draws very little power in sleep mode.   m

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Look165 <look165@numericable.fr>: Feb 20 10:55AM +0100 Generallly, it comes from a bas contact between the cursor aand the resistive track (dust or oxyde). It can also come from a miscontact between this track and the connecting pad or a "dry solder". First step : re-solder everything. Second step : use some KF or equivalent in large quantity inside (through the opening of the leads).   Peter Jason a écrit le 20/02/2019 à 02:06 :

Peter Jason <pj@jostle.com>: Feb 20 12:06PM +1100 I have one of these......   https://i.ytimg.com/vi/1VHkWsb9MY0/maxresdefault.jpg     The volume control wheel (at the side) has lost all fine-tuning capability, and makes appalling noises when operated as it jumps at random from high to low volume.   Is there a fix; is it a loose connection, dust or grit in the works? Should I just flush it out.   Otherwise the radio works well.

Peter Jason <pj@jostle.com>: Feb 28 11:36AM +1100 On Wed, 20 Feb 2019 12:06:09 +1100, Peter Jason   >Is there a fix; is it a loose connection, dust or >grit in the works? Should I just flush it out.   >Otherwise the radio works well.   I fixed it by flushing the area around the volume wheel with isoPropanol. The wheel is slightly harder to turn though this might improve as remaining traces of solvent evaporate.

Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Feb 27 06:41PM -0600 On 2/27/19 6:36 PM, Peter Jason wrote: > wheel with isoPropanol. The wheel is slightly > harder to turn though this might improve as > remaining traces of solvent evaporate.   It won't. You've flushed all the lubrication out of it.     -- "I am a river to my people." Jeff-1.0 WA6FWi http:foxsmercantile.com

Phil Allison <pallison49@gmail.com>: Feb 27 05:00PM -0800 Peter Jerkoff Jason wrote:   > wheel with isoPropanol. The wheel is slightly > harder to turn though this might improve as > remaining traces of solvent evaporate.   ** Nobody here suggested you do that.   What a fucking idiot you are.       .... Phil

Peter Jason <pj@jostle.com>: Feb 28 12:09PM +1100 On Wed, 27 Feb 2019 18:41:53 -0600, Fox's >> remaining traces of solvent evaporate.   >It won't. You've flushed all the lubrication out of >it.   ....er, what can I use as a replacement lubricant?

Peter Jason <pj@jostle.com>: Feb 28 12:10PM +1100 On Wed, 27 Feb 2019 17:00:11 -0800 (PST), Phil   >** Nobody here suggested you do that.   > What a fucking idiot you are.   > .... Phil   How rude! Your endless brawling with other posters has got me flummoxed and confused.

Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Feb 27 07:13PM -0600 On 2/27/19 7:09 PM, Peter Jason wrote:   >> It won't. You've flushed all the lubrication out of >> it.   > ....er, what can I use as a replacement lubricant?   What we told you to use to begin with. <https://caig.com/fader-f-series/>     -- "I am a river to my people." Jeff-1.0 WA6FWi http:foxsmercantile.com

Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Feb 27 07:15PM -0600 On 2/27/19 7:10 PM, Peter Jason wrote: > How rude! Your endless brawling with other posters > has got me flummoxed and confused.   You have two choices with Phil, agree with him, or ignore him.   -- "I am a river to my people." Jeff-1.0 WA6FWi http:foxsmercantile.com

Peter Jason <pj@jostle.com>: Feb 28 12:15PM +1100 On Tue, 26 Feb 2019 05:37:45 -0800 (PST), Terry   >That is all true -- except that the common detergent packs or liquids are extremely caustic. Much more so than the liquids used for hand-washing dishes. Something to consider.   >Terry   >> Point being that a well-designed unit will get dishes cleaner, using less water, less energy and fewer chemicals than hand-washing unless one is incredibly efficient about it. The dynamics change if one lives alone, or has on-site sanitation, tankless water heater and any of several other conditions that mitigate towards hand-washing.   Yes, I live alone in unalloyed bliss. Additionally, I can get by on but one shower/week (except during heat waves and the odd bone-chilling winter's day.)

% <persent@gmail.com>: Feb 19 07:15PM -0700 On 2019-02-19 7:02 p.m., Rod Speed wrote: >> turns the power off and on, when it comes on, the radio doesn't start >> until someone pushes a button.   > They arent all like that. Just replace the radio with a better analog one.     and get on SiriusXM

danny burstein <dannyb@panix.com>: Feb 20 04:07AM >> what makes radios drift from the proper tuning?   >How old and crappy are your radios? Have you made it up to a >superheterodyne or are you still in the regenerative era?   Me, I'm still waiting to upgrade to using a stainless steel razor blade for mine...   -- _____________________________________________________ Knowledge may be power, but communications is the key dannyb@panix.com [to foil spammers, my address has been double rot-13 encoded]

Sjouke Burry <burrynulnulfour@ppllaanneett.nnll>: Feb 20 02:54AM +0100 On 20-2-2019 0:58, micky wrote:   > I can't use radios with electronic tuning because with a timer that > turns the power off and on, when it comes on, the radio doesn't start > until someone pushes a button.   Any or all of the above.

micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Feb 19 11:27PM -0500 In alt.home.repair, on Tue, 19 Feb 2019 20:54:12 -0500, >> a little bit? Or do the parts get warm and some value changes?   >> Is this more common in AM than FM? or vice versa? FM has AFC but iirc >> AM doesn't have that.   This is not as bad as some seem to have gleaned. This method will work, I just wanted to shorten the time it would take me to find the right radio, the right AM or FM band, and a a good station >> turns the power off and on, when it comes on, the radio doesn't start >> until someone pushes a button.   >Do you have a TV with cable access ?   No, I don't.   >If so, does the cable service have >music only channels ? Our Xfinity/Comcast does.   It doesn't have to be music. Burglars don't know my tastes. It just has to be a radio or tv station.   BTW, I've been on 3 trips in the last 2 years totaling 160 days and no one has bothered my house at all. I just want to keep it that way.   >Have your timer turn the TV on/off. Leave cable box set to music channel.   If the timer provides power to the TV, someone has to press the TV's on/off button.   Thanks.

rbowman <bowman@montana.com>: Feb 19 08:53PM -0700 On 02/19/2019 04:58 PM, micky wrote: > what makes radios drift from the proper tuning?   How old and crappy are your radios? Have you made it up to a superheterodyne or are you still in the regenerative era?

devnull <devnull@127.0.0.1>: Feb 21 05:48AM -0500 On 2/19/19 6:58 PM, micky wrote: > and also a radio, but some radios get so far out of tune, even when I > don't touch them, that almost nothing comes out, and I'd like the radio > to continue to play the station clearly.       Are you afraid some border-hoppin' thief is going to steal your stuff?   The most effective way to keep the criminals out is to build a wall around your house. Open borders don't work.

George <george@spacely-sprokets.com>: Feb 21 06:32AM -0500 On 2/21/2019 5:48 AM, devnull wrote:   > Are you afraid some border-hoppin' thief is going to steal your stuff?   > The most effective way to keep the criminals out is to build a wall around your house.  Open borders don't work.   Nancy Pelosi has an immoral wall around her compound.  She also has people with guns protecting her home as well.

micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Feb 19 06:58PM -0500 what makes radios drift from the proper tuning?   I have radios that I tune and after they play a while the tuning needs to be adjusted.   This is common, I assume.   What is happening? Does the vibration make the variable condenser shift a little bit? Or do the parts get warm and some value changes?   Is this more common in AM than FM? or vice versa? FM has AFC but iirc AM doesn't have that.         I am going away for a while and I want to use timers to turn on lights and also a radio, but some radios get so far out of tune, even when I don't touch them, that almost nothing comes out, and I'd like the radio to continue to play the station clearly.     I can't use radios with electronic tuning because with a timer that turns the power off and on, when it comes on, the radio doesn't start until someone pushes a button.

micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Feb 19 08:46PM -0500 In alt.home.repair, on Tue, 19 Feb 2019 16:54:36 -0800 (PST), trader_4   >Usually the tuning issue is mostly with weaker stations. If the issue is   I didn't pay much attention until just now, but I think the common one was 88.1, which is pretty strong. I'd leave one radio on and even in the length of time it takes to take a bath, 30 minutes, the sound would get gnarled.   On my 250 dollar radio, 88.1 in Baltimore got lower in volume about a year ago, and 88.5 which is all the way in DC is now louder and probably more clear. (But that one has electronic tuning, have to push a button to get sound.)   BUT, none of the radios I actually use except the car radio can get 88.5, because it's all the way in DC. Yet on the good radio it comes in better.   I guess I figure that if it drifts on a somewhat weak station, it will drift on any station. Is that where AFC will make a difference? On FM only but not AM? (and with enough time it will drift so far it won't sound like a radio station.)   >over the years that stayed tuned to all kinds of stations AM and FM without >a problem. Micky is in MD too, right? Should be plenty of local, strong >stations.   Yes, just for making noise it doesn't have to be a station I would actually listen to. It could even play hiphop. it's a pain for testing however, having to listen to some of that.

George <george@spacely-sprokets.com>: Feb 21 01:12PM -0500 On 2/21/2019 11:38 AM, Bob F wrote:   >> Nancy Pelosi has an immoral wall around her compound.  She also has people with guns protecting her home as well.   > With people like you in this country, I can certainly understand her worries.   Ted Kennedy's Oldsmobile has killed more people than my handguns.

tubeguy@myshop.com: Feb 19 11:13PM -0600 In the 1960s the pocket radios hit the market and were sold everywhere. I have not opened one of them in years, but I recall the transistors used in them did not look like more modern types. They had a small metal can. Just a straight sided metal can, shaped like modern capacitors, but bare metal. Some had colored dots on them to identify the leads too.   First, I am thinking that they were geranium types. Is that correct?   Second, I have a very old GE transistor manual (edition 2) (PDF). No where in there does it mention the case style of them. What is the case style?   Seems those type of transistors came and went quickly. I assume they were the first generation of transistors.   Shortly after, I recall seeing a lot of metal cases that were shaped more like a hat, with a brim. Those too vanished. And I recall seeing some of the hat shaped types with a point sticking out of the top. I always wondered what that point was for???

bitrex <user@example.net>: Feb 20 05:08PM -0500 > can. Just a straight sided metal can, shaped like modern capacitors, but > bare metal. Some had colored dots on them to identify the leads too.   > First, I am thinking that they were geranium types. Is that correct?   Germanium, son. Geraniums are the perennials your wife grows in the garden.

Adam <adamg@pobox.comNOSPAM>: Feb 22 05:23AM > LED display on a small board that mounts to the front panel board.   > While the machine is a Philips/Magnavox based player, I do not know > what an equivalent model that might share the same display is.   I believe the Philips CD160, CD460, CD560, Magnavox CDB460, CDB560 and Sylvania CD1650 have this display. There are a few on eBay but they're not cheap!   There is a design for a DIY retrofit which may or may not be suitable: https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/digital-source/259790-nsm4202a-led-display-module-replacement-philips-sony-cdm-transports.html   -- Adam

Tim Schwartz <tim@bristolnj.com>: Feb 21 03:19PM -0500 Hello all,   A customer has an AR CD-04 with a bad display. This is a 4 digit green LED display on a small board that mounts to the front panel board.   While the machine is a Philips/Magnavox based player, I do not know what an equivalent model that might share the same display is.   Since I'd guess that many of these have been scrapped because of a defective CDM-2 mechanism, I'm hoping someone has saved a chassis that might have a good display or display board that they would be willing to sell me.   Gentlemen, please check you junk rooms!   Regards, Tim Schawrtz Bristol Electronics Ho-Ho-Kus, New Jersey

Look165 <look165@numericable.fr>: Feb 21 10:02PM +0100 Maybe the flat ribbon cable ; just shrten it at the end.   Tim Schwartz a écrit le 21/02/2019 à 21:19 :

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micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Feb 26 09:48PM +0200 In sci.electronics.repair, on Tue, 26 Feb 2019 08:09:02 -0800 (PST), Tim >> that, she said, got sound but no picture.   >She was on the roof with binoculars. She saw you coming a mile away.   >Now you're stuck with electronics that will cost you minimum $25 to recycle. You can't just throw this away, the trash people won't take it. You may even get fined for putting it out.   No fine afaik, they just ignore it. But she said that if I couldn't fix it, to bring it back and they would take care of it as before   >Repair? Unlikely. (based on posting history, electronic troubleshooting is not your strong suit)   I think you don't appreciate my humor.

Jon Elson <elson@pico-systems.com>: Feb 26 03:09PM -0600 On Tue, 26 Feb 2019 03:14:55 +0200, micky wrote:     > On a scale of 1 to 10, I'm about a 4 to 5 in ability to fix electronics.   > What are the chances *I'll* be able to fix this? I figure it needs a HV > rectifier tube like a 1AV4 (iirc) or a flyback transformer.   1AV4 rectifier? Was it made before 1960? I can't imagine any TV made after 1960 having a TUBE rectifier. And, I don't remember any 40" TVs back then.   Jon

Mike Coon <gravity@mjcoon.plus.com>: Feb 27 08:46AM In article <hrGdnZxqIsNmN-jBnZ2dnUU7-dGdnZ2d@giganews.com>, elson@pico- systems.com says... > after 1960 having a TUBE rectifier. And, I don't remember any 40" TVs > back then.   > Jon   And if there were any they could not have had a "flat screen" because of resisting the vacuum...   Mike.

etpm@whidbey.com: Feb 26 12:16PM -0800 On Fri, 15 Feb 2019 19:02:44 -0800, Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote:     >The link in the video to EEVblog doesn't work. This does: >"EEVblog #453 - Mysteries of x1 Oscilloscope Probes Revealed" ><http://www.eevblog.com/forum/blog/eevblog-453-mysteries-of-x1-oscilloscope-probes-revealed/?all> Greetings Jeff, Well, I watched that video you mentioned plus another two, one put out by Tektronix. I now understand WAY better what's going on. Thanks for the link and suggestions. I know it shouldn't matter but the EEVblog guy's voice bugs me. But his explanation was clear. And the pdf you posted a link to was also very educational. Thanks, Eric

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Feb 26 01:29PM -0800 >posted a link to was also very educational. >Thanks, >Eric   Y'er welcome. There's also a mess of magic (and confusion) with high voltage probes, where the frequency response varies with the applied voltage. See graph on Pg 1-12: <https://download.tek.com/manual/070822305.pdf>   Also active probes that work at GHz frequencies with input loading around 1M and 1pf. You can really get spoiled with those working around RF. "Active probes: why they are worth buying" <https://www.eetimes.com/document.asp?doc_id=1279659#>   I have the same problem with Dave Jones of EEVblog. Recently, he's made an attempt to shorten his videos and clean up his presentation, but it's still difficult viewing. Here's a clue: <https://www.youtube.com/user/EEVblog> "No Script, No Fear, All Opinions" Methinks a script and an editor might help.   -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

Mike <ham789@netscape.net>: Feb 26 04:47PM -0800 On 2/26/2019 1:29 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote: > voltage probes, where the frequency response varies with the applied > voltage. See graph on Pg 1-12: > <https://download.tek.com/manual/070822305.pdf>   That has nothing to do with the frequency response. Probes are VOLTAGE derated with frequency. Think about it... At infinite frequency, all the caps look like shorts and it lets the smoke out.

makolber@yahoo.com: Feb 26 01:39PM -0800 On Monday, February 25, 2019 at 3:57:23 PM UTC-5, David Farber wrote:   > -- > David Farber > Los Osos, CA   when you say you "try to power it on"   do you mean you push the physical power button on the printer?   or is the printer in sleep mode and you send it data which is supposed to wake it up?   m

David Farber <farberar.unspam@aol.com>: Feb 26 04:38PM -0800 > do you mean you push the physical power button on the printer?   > or is the printer in sleep mode and you send it data which is supposed to wake it up?   > m   Every evening I hold the power button down for a couple of seconds until it powers off completely. It is not in sleep mode. The only way to use it again is to hold the power button down for a couple of seconds until it powers back on. Then you can use it. I'm about to go hunting for some disassembly instructions because it wouldn't power on again today.   Thanks for your reply. -- David Farber Los Osos, CA

arnfinn.morvik@gmail.com: Feb 26 11:41AM -0800 Please send me:   Solution Manual Electronics : A Systems Approach (4th Ed., Neil Storey) Solution Manual Electronics : A Systems Approach (5th Ed., Neil Storey)   Thank you in advance Arnfinn

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micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Feb 26 03:14AM +0200 Just before I went out of town, a neighbor gave me a 40" flat screen tv that, she said, got sound but no picture.   I didn't even have time to see what brand it is, but she said it wasn't a Samsung, like the box from their new one.   What are the chances you'd be able to fix this at a reasonable cost?   On a scale of 1 to 10, I'm about a 4 to 5 in ability to fix electronics.   What are the chances *I'll* be able to fix this? I figure it needs a HV rectifier tube like a 1AV4 (iirc) or a flyback transformer.   If not that, maybe a video board which will cost as much as a used TV? Plus I won't be able to return the board even if it doesn't help. (P.S. I know it doesn't have tubes or a flyback. ;=) )

John-Del <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Feb 25 05:36PM -0800 On Monday, February 25, 2019 at 8:15:04 PM UTC-5, micky wrote:   > If not that, maybe a video board which will cost as much as a used TV? > Plus I won't be able to return the board even if it doesn't help. > (P.S. I know it doesn't have tubes or a flyback. ;=) )     You need to give us more than that. Plasma or LCD/LED? Other than the fact they produce a TV picture, they share very little circuit topography.   If it's a plasma, we need to know if the panel is priming.   If it's an LCD/LED, we need to know if the back lights are enabled.   And that's just the start. Give us a model number at least.

micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Feb 26 03:42AM +0200 In sci.electronics.repair, on Mon, 25 Feb 2019 17:36:49 -0800 (PST),   >If it's a plasma, we need to know if the panel is priming.   >If it's an LCD/LED, we need to know if the back lights are enabled.   >And that's just the start. Give us a model number at least.   Well, that will have to wait until I get back home. I was leaving the next day so didn't have time to take it out of the box even part-way to find out the brand.

tabbypurr@gmail.com: Feb 26 02:26AM -0800 On Tuesday, 26 February 2019 01:15:04 UTC, micky wrote:     > If not that, maybe a video board which will cost as much as a used TV? > Plus I won't be able to return the board even if it doesn't help. > (P.S. I know it doesn't have tubes or a flyback. ;=) )   Maybe it just needs a new red EHT current limiting lightbulb. Most common problem is bad caps in the PSU. Backlighting prolems also occur.     NT

Tim R <timothy42b@aol.com>: Feb 26 08:09AM -0800 On Monday, February 25, 2019 at 8:15:04 PM UTC-5, micky wrote: > Just before I went out of town, a neighbor gave me a 40" flat screen tv > that, she said, got sound but no picture.   She was on the roof with binoculars. She saw you coming a mile away.   Now you're stuck with electronics that will cost you minimum $25 to recycle. You can't just throw this away, the trash people won't take it. You may even get fined for putting it out.   Repair? Unlikely. (based on posting history, electronic troubleshooting is not your strong suit)

John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Feb 25 08:44AM -0800 >> house.   > Per the literature, our Bosch uses 2.4 gallons of water for the typical load, ...   > Also useful for sterilizing radio chassis and other equipment that has been 'moused' or worse.   Not if you want to stay married. Or do you have a separate machine for cleaning electronics gear than the kitchen machine?     > Peter Wieck > Melrose Park, PA   John ;-#)#   -- (Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup) John's Jukes Ltd. MOVED to #7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3 (604)872-5757 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games) www.flippers.com "Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."

tabbypurr@gmail.com: Feb 25 08:48AM -0800 On Monday, 25 February 2019 16:44:48 UTC, John Robertson wrote:   > > Also useful for sterilizing radio chassis and other equipment that has been 'moused' or worse.   > Not if you want to stay married. Or do you have a separate machine for > cleaning electronics gear than the kitchen machine?   Some folk have been known to wash bog seats in them. Those are the ones that don't stay married.

Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Feb 25 11:00AM -0600 On 2/25/19 10:44 AM, John Robertson wrote: > Not if you want to stay married. Or do you have a separate > machine for cleaning electronics gear than the kitchen > machine?   I have three dishwashers. One in the kitchen at the house, one in the kitchen in the "mother in law" apartment behind the house, and one at the shop.   -- "I am a river to my people." Jeff-1.0 WA6FWi http:foxsmercantile.com

"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Feb 25 12:22PM -0800 On Monday, February 25, 2019 at 11:44:48 AM UTC-5, John Robertson wrote:     > Not if you want to stay married. Or do you have a separate machine for > cleaning electronics gear than the kitchen machine?   John:   It is a division of labor that has worked now for very nearly 39 years, 36 of them married. I am in charge of appliance O&M and their proper function. My wife is a user of same, and as long as they operate smoothly when she needs them, she could care less on the throughput.   As we are on a municipal sewer with the means to control phosphorous, and chelate heavy metals, I have no qualms about using conventional detergents. Which, in turn, contain enough bleach as to render any creepy-crawlies dead. So, when she needs the Dishwasher, the inside (stainless) is pristine and odor-free.   Our shared joke is that the hobby keeps me close to home, does not eat, and is cheaper than another woman.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

John-Del <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Feb 25 12:26PM -0800 > It is a division of labor that has worked now for very nearly 39 years, 36 of them married. I am in charge of appliance O&M and their proper function. My wife is a user of same, and as long as they operate smoothly when she needs them, she could care less on the throughput.   > As we are on a municipal sewer with the means to control phosphorous, and chelate heavy metals, I have no qualms about using conventional detergents. Which, in turn, contain enough bleach as to render any creepy-crawlies dead. So, when she needs the Dishwasher, the inside (stainless) is pristine and odor-free.   > Our shared joke is that the hobby keeps me close to home, does not eat, and is cheaper than another woman.   You must have some high falootin' women round your parts Peter..

Ralph Mowery <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: Feb 25 03:43PM -0500 In article <d049a775-a270-40af-9591-55c3af0773e0@googlegroups.com>, ohger1s@gmail.com says...   > > Our shared joke is that the hobby keeps me close to home, does not eat, and is cheaper than another woman.   > You must have some high falootin' women round your parts Peter..   I think other women would be cheeper for me than the hobby IF I had the money.

"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Feb 25 01:01PM -0800 On Monday, February 25, 2019 at 3:26:16 PM UTC-5, John-Del wrote:   > You must have some high falootin' women round your parts Peter..   I would like to think so!   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

Terry Schwartz <tschw10117@aol.com>: Feb 26 05:37AM -0800 That is all true -- except that the common detergent packs or liquids are extremely caustic. Much more so than the liquids used for hand-washing dishes. Something to consider.   Terry

tubeguy@myshop.com: Feb 25 10:59PM -0600 On Sun, 17 Feb 2019 16:12:53 -0600, Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net> wrote:     >The Failed motherboards were, Dell. >Their "Lets buy cheap shit" almost put them out of business. >And that was almost 20 years ago.   It dont surprise me it was Dell. A friend had a Dell that was from the early 2000s. It had XP on it. It was so frikkin slow I could literally outtype it, using notepad. She asked me if there was something wrong with it. I changed some settings and that did nothing. Since there was nothing on the computer except a few free games, I formatted the hard drive and reinstalled XP. Still slow.....   Heck, I had a much older and lower powered computer at the time that was running Windows 98, which was 10X faster than that Dell.   A few years later I got an almost identical Dell computer given to me. I installed XP on it and was shocked to find it was just as slow as the friend's computer. I didn't even bother with it any further. I removed the drives and sent the rest of it to the recycler....   Things may be different with Dell today, but I will never buy any Dell computers, new or used, after that experience.   I strictly use all IBM/Lenovo computers. They last forever. I still have one that works fine and is 20 years old. My newer ones I own are great too.

Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Feb 25 11:49PM -0600 > Things may be different with Dell today, but I will never > buy any Dell computers, new or used, after that experience.   Dell like most PC suppliers have a wide range of models, from cheap to high end.   It's like saying "I'll NEVER buy another Ford product" because of the Pinto, or "I'll NEVER buy another Chevy product" because of the Vega.     -- "I am a river to my people." Jeff-1.0 WA6FWi http:foxsmercantile.com

Clifford Heath <no.spam@please.net>: Feb 26 04:11PM +1100 On 23/2/19 3:18 pm, Jeff Liebermann wrote:   > Good luck and please let me know if you find anything in your power > supply. I suspect the IFR-1600 might be similar to the IFR-1500 power > supply design.   I have a COM-120A which has an external power supply bolted to the back.   It was faulty already when I received it (probably baseband module needing capacitors) but while in storage awaiting attention the CPU board got tired also and the video went strange, followed by it not booting up at all. Although the RF path is probably ok enough, these had an 80186 that was woefully underpowered - the -B and -C introduced more powerful CPUs - so now I wonder if it's even worth attempting to resurrect it - though an acquaintance nearby has one on which he replaced the video board and made it go again. Just too much work needed for too little result.   Basically I can only ask folk to "vote with their feet" and stay away from manufacturers that don't release full service documentation including schematics. IFR was a bad example.   Clifford Heath.

micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Feb 26 03:57AM +0200 In sci.electronics.repair, on Wed, 20 Feb 2019 07:14:36 -0600, Fox's >> Interference? I don't know how you can tell that with a digital tuner.   >You can't.   >It's like Hatlow's "They'll do it every time."   It's a long time since I saw that cartoon. I'd forgotten all about it, but I sure liked it at the time.   >A bunch of neighbor's pointing at the local amateur radio guy. >Among other comments, "I hear he even interferes with Doc's >diathermy machine.   He shouldn't do that.

cpthao@gmail.com: Feb 25 03:29PM -0800 > -- > David Farber > Los Osos, CA   Hi David. I know this thread is a bit old. How do you solder the 100k resistor to noninverting pins #3 and #5? Do you happen to have a picture of the actual solder of the resistor? Also on the resistor, what watt is the resistor? Thanks!

John-Del <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Feb 25 05:57PM -0800 > > David Farber > > Los Osos, CA   > Hi David. I know this thread is a bit old. How do you solder the 100k resistor to noninverting pins #3 and #5? Do you happen to have a picture of the actual solder of the resistor? Also on the resistor, what watt is the resistor? Thanks!   The wattage is unimportant. If you're using leaded resistors, use 1/8 watt and go from pins 3 and 5 to the nearest ground (like pin 4). What I would do is use a couple of smd resistors and tack them from pins 3 and 5 to pin 4 ground.   Did anyone try actually replacing those op-amps?

micky <NONONOmisc07@bigfoot.com>: Feb 26 03:51AM +0200 In sci.electronics.repair, on Wed, 20 Feb 2019 00:33:16 -0800 (PST), >> grit in the works? Should I just flush it out.   >> Otherwise the radio works well.   >Sometimes all one need to is twiddle the control back & forth a dozen or 2 times.   Definitely t hat's the easiest and likely to make it work for a while. I just left on a trip and the radio that was supposed to play to make it sound like I was home had t he no-play problem, but twiddling the volume a bit made it good enough to last until I get home, probably, since no one will be moving it.

David Farber <farberbear.unspam@aol.com>: Feb 25 12:57PM -0800 We've had this Brother MFC-9130CW printer/scanner/fax for about 3 years. Sometimes (about twice a week) when you try to power it on, it doesn't go on. The internet is full of similar complaints about this issue. The "fix" is to unplug it for a minute and then plug it back in. This workaround always works. I'd be more interested in finding out how to permanently fix it. It worked fine for the first two years plus. Has anyone disassembled one of these and found a cure for this?   Thanks for your reply.   -- David Farber Los Osos, CA

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Peter Jason <pj@jostle.com>: Feb 25 11:38AM +1100 On Fri, 22 Feb 2019 14:48:51 -0800, Jeff >relative position to the likely source of interference, is not being >very cooperative or helpful. When you see a sentence end in a >question mark, please try to answer the question.   The TV is a Sony ''Bravia'' XBR KDL-40XBR https://www.sony.com.au/electronics/support/res/manuals/3217/32172841M.pdf   But normally I use the tuners in the ... Panasonic DMR-PWT540   https://www.appliancesonline.com.au/manuals/DMR-PWT540GL/14082014134757DMR-PWT540GL%20Manual.pdf because this allows faster surfing between channels. Also, I record everything for later select viewing. The current antenna is http://docshare.tips/hills-2007-antenna-catalogue_5875af0db6d87fe0468b45a0.html     The interference happens thru the Bravia tuner & thru the Panasonic ones.   The roof antenna system has been the same for about 7 years.

makolber@yahoo.com: Feb 25 07:54AM -0800 On Sunday, February 24, 2019 at 7:39:00 PM UTC-5, Peter Jason wrote: > thru the Panasonic ones.   > The roof antenna system has been the same for > about 7 years.   the OP needs a spectrum analyzer m

Peter Jason <pj@jostle.com>: Feb 25 07:54AM +1100 On Sun, 24 Feb 2019 10:33:38 +0100, Look165 >> leak all over the place.   >> I'd test it outside instead of in my kitchen...   >> John :-#)#   I had a dishwasher disaster when the steam therein shorted out the ''control card''.   I now find I can live happily without one, no doubt saving heaps on power & water.   Consider this option unless you run a boarding house.   My front-load washing machine brochure advises to leave the front door open or ajar between washes to save on seal wear.

"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Feb 25 04:55AM -0800 On Sunday, February 24, 2019 at 3:54:24 PM UTC-5, Peter Jason wrote:   > doubt saving heaps on power & water.   > Consider this option unless you run a boarding > house.   Per the literature, our Bosch uses 2.4 gallons of water for the typical load, and about 4.4 gallons for 'scrub-the-paint-off-a-board' mode - which we seldom use. And, as there is no direct heating element, there are no worries about melting anything or anyone getting burnt. It has the capacity to make its own hot water, although if the domestic hot water is enough (150F), it will not. As most of us do not keep our domestic water at 150F, that is also a useful feature. We do not have to scrape dishes, anything softer than a hard nut and smaller than walnut is fine, and crusty eggs, pasta sauce and similar are no challenge at all. Those hard nuts will simply wind up in the pan-filter, no clogs.   Point being that a well-designed unit will get dishes cleaner, using less water, less energy and fewer chemicals than hand-washing unless one is incredibly efficient about it. The dynamics change if one lives alone, or has on-site sanitation, tankless water heater and any of several other conditions that mitigate towards hand-washing.   Also useful for sterilizing radio chassis and other equipment that has been 'moused' or worse.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

tabbypurr@gmail.com: Feb 25 05:35AM -0800 > > shorted out the ''control card''.   > > I now find I can live happily without one, no > > doubt saving heaps on power & water.   'no doubt' usually means a person hasn't worked it out & doesn't know.     > Also useful for sterilizing radio chassis and other equipment that has been 'moused' or worse.   > Peter Wieck > Melrose Park, PA   Great for modern stuff too, just not relays or speakers etc.   I calculated a few years ago that handwashing could save around 40p/hr compared to using a machine. If anyone wants to work for that much, what can one say.     NT

Chuck <ch@dejanews.net>: Feb 24 10:53AM -0600 >by visual examination of the circuit board. I do not see any "out of the >ordinary" capacitors.   > John They are usually .47F to 1F and are normally short and squat.

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