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bruce2bowser@gmail.com: Dec 31 07:54AM -0800 > Canadian numbers as I had a direct hand in the construction of three Utility-Scale > plants in Canada. And where I learned all about the ripping off of the taxpayers and > the politics involved. I left that company in short order upon gaining that knowledge.   You initial claim is that solar is a fraud. Yet, you yourself have already claimed that a solar investment is returned in 9.8 years, meanwhile an expert site says that its only 8 years: ===============================   "If your cost of installing solar is $20,000 and your system is going to save you $2,500 a year on foregone energy bills, your solar panel payback or "break-even point" will be 8 years ($20,000/$2,500 = 8).   Energy Sage - May 26, 2019 -- https://news.energysage.com/understanding-your-solar-panel-payback-period/

bruce2bowser@gmail.com: Dec 31 07:56AM -0800 Thus your property is appreciating in value, afterwards.

John-Del <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Dec 31 05:06AM -0800 On Monday, December 30, 2019 at 6:06:20 PM UTC-5, Trevor Wilson wrote:   > -- > Trevor Wilson > www.rageaudio.com.au     Wow, never saw a 6CA7 metal tube. Learn something new every day. I also have a sleeve of NOS 8417s that I used in a Fisher for a customer many years ago.

Michael Terrell <terrell.michael.a@gmail.com>: Dec 31 05:45AM -0800 On Tuesday, December 31, 2019 at 8:06:59 AM UTC-5, John-Del wrote:   > Wow, never saw a 6CA7 metal tube. Learn something new every day. I also have a sleeve of NOS 8417s that I used in a Fisher for a customer many years ago.   Metal tubes were common in military and aircraft radios, because they could withstand a lot more vibrations. One thing to watch is that some metal version can't dissipate the same power levels as the later glass versions. I used to run into so called repairs where someone had one metal 6L6 and one 6L6GC glass in a push-pull output. A very bad idea!

"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Dec 31 05:16AM -0800 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ASPwNEtSzK8   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

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John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Dec 30 02:31PM -0800 On 2019/12/28 2:50 a.m., John-Del wrote:   > Alibaba lists the STK0055N for about $12 shipped:   > https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32820841800.html   > The one review said it worked...   That Alibaba one sure looks authentic! Well, maybe not so authentic... Like a poor copy of a copy...   Ali Baba and the 40 thieves is the full name of the original book if I am not mistaken...and an interesting name choice for a company!   John :-#)#

John-Del <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Dec 30 03:04PM -0800 Ali Baba was the good guy. The 40 thieves were, well, thieves. Ali Baba learned the secret phrase that the thieves used to gain entrance to a cave where they stashed their loot (as I recall).

John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Dec 30 03:12PM -0800 On 2019/12/30 3:04 p.m., John-Del wrote: > Ali Baba was the good guy. The 40 thieves were, well, thieves. Ali Baba learned the secret phrase that the thieves used to gain entrance to a cave where they stashed their loot (as I recall).   True, he only stole from the thieves...which makes him the good guy...(?).   John ;-#)#

John-Del <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Dec 31 05:03AM -0800 On Monday, December 30, 2019 at 6:12:22 PM UTC-5, John Robertson wrote: > > Ali Baba was the good guy. The 40 thieves were, well, thieves. Ali Baba learned the secret phrase that the thieves used to gain entrance to a cave where they stashed their loot (as I recall).   > True, he only stole from the thieves...which makes him the good guy...(?).   > John ;-#)#     In a Robin Hood sort of way I guess. I'm 62 and read the story only once, and that was when I was in second or third grade, so I don't recall the particulars - but my recollection was that Ali Baba was the good guy.

etpm@whidbey.com: Dec 30 09:23AM -0800 On Mon, 30 Dec 2019 06:52:40 -0800 (PST), "jfeng@my-deja.com"   >Is it a mono or stereo amp? If stereo, is the noise identical in both channels? Can you hear suspicious noises coming directly from the electronics (like crackling from the transformers)? In the absence of any diagnostic linformation, my knee-jerk reflex is to suspect the coupling condensers, followed by the cathode bypass and power supply filters. When you have the noise, try freezing one component at a time using freon spray. If you have an oscilloscope, does the noise show up on the power supply b+? These things do not have very many components, and you ought to be able to divide and conquer. The amp is stereo. The noise is coming from one side only. I'll post more info in another post. Thanks, Eric

etpm@whidbey.com: Dec 30 09:29AM -0800 On Mon, 30 Dec 2019 05:01:07 -0800 (PST), "pfjw@aol.com"   >Good luck with it - you will likely need it.   >Peter Wieck >Melrose Park, PA The amp you linked to is not my amp. My amp has no solid state devices except for the bluetooth module. But it is obviously separate from the amplifying electronics as it only connects to the input through a relay. Check out the link: https://www.doukaudio.com/el34-tube-integrated-amplifier-hifi-stereo-pure-class-a-power-amp-p0025-p0025.html This amp is similar but does not have the bluetooth module. Eric

"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Dec 30 01:33PM -0800 Same suggestions, although a bad Russian tube is no surprise whatsoever. Jeff is linking you to a reasonable site, however.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

etpm@whidbey.com: Dec 30 01:56PM -0800 On Mon, 30 Dec 2019 13:33:24 -0800 (PST), "pfjw@aol.com"   >Same suggestions, although a bad Russian tube is no surprise whatsoever. Jeff is linking you to a reasonable site, however.   >Peter Wieck >Melrose Park, PA I already have a really nice isolated auto transformer with a meter. The amp does draw a little more than 50 watts. I measured it when I made up the buck xmfr power supply for it. If the 5u4 tube starts to conduct much different than 80 volts what does that mean? Eric

John Robertson <spam@flippers.com>: Dec 30 02:54PM -0800 > hour and a half drive away. > Thanks, > Eric   Hi Eric,     Look for flashes of light in any of the tubes - that would be serious and that tube(s) needs immediate replacement.   When your amp again misbehaves try unplugging the inputs to it. Still have loud noise?   Then unplug the two 6N9 tubes, one at a time to hear if that makes the noise go away. These are the phase splitter tubes for the four output tubes if stereo. Two EL84Bs if mono.   At least that is what I would do...   John :-#)#

tabbypurr@gmail.com: Dec 30 07:58PM -0800 > hour and a half drive away. > Thanks, > Eric   Most likely cause is a bad connection somewhere. The fault is most likely after the volume ctrl, though it might be on a secondary supply line. Connections can be prodded with something insulating. A resistor in series with the speaker would keep the volume & Pdiss down. Keep an eye on supply current that it doesn't get excessive during fault.   A failing tube, cap or carbon resistor are also possible. Less likely deteriorating insulation. Comparing the voltages in the 2 channels while it faults might help home in on where it's going awry.     NT

Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Dec 30 10:14PM -0600 > Most likely cause is a bad connection somewhere.   Thank you Captain Obvious. If you had read the entire thread, you would have seen that it was a defective EL34. Please try to keep up.     -- "I am a river to my people." Jeff-1.0 WA6FWi http:foxsmercantile.com

etpm@whidbey.com: Dec 30 09:12AM -0800 On Sun, 29 Dec 2019 17:34:08 -0800, Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote:     >You'll probably also need a spindle speed tachometer. Something like >this: ><https://www.ebay.com/itm/332908532113> I'll need to check my VFD to see if it can be jumpered to output 120 volts. I couldn't remember if more voltage would cause more current. Thanks. Since my son is doing light duty work with the lathe 1/2 HP should be fine. And the motor he is using now is 1/2 hp. It's just a standard single phase induction motor though. The washing machine motor has a tach so that's covered. If I can get the existing VFD to work out of the washer. Cheers, Eric

etpm@whidbey.com: Dec 30 09:15AM -0800 On Mon, 30 Dec 2019 05:08:34 -0800 (PST), "pfjw@aol.com"   >Do check that the motor is well-and-truly 3-phase, however.   >Peter Wieck >Melrose Park, PA As I stated in my post I do have already a VFD that would work except that I think it only outputs 120 volts. And the motor nameplate says on it that it is a 3 phase induction motor. The voltage and frequency are listed as being variable. But Jeff L. suggested that it may be jumperable so I will need to check the manual. I didn't even think it may be able to output 120 volts. Cheers, Eric

Michael Terrell <terrell.michael.a@gmail.com>: Dec 30 07:28PM -0800 > https://www.automationdirect.com/adc/shopping/catalog/drives_-a-_soft_starters/ac_variable_frequency_drives_(vfd)/micro/drive_units/gs2-21p0?gclid=CjwKCAiA3abwBRBqEiwAKwICA90933xWXOub4tqOEwtiM2NTBIQOIMPluf5Adgkwgq4LVLq26XmkxxoCZ6kQAvD_BwE   > Only one of many options.   > Do check that the motor is well-and-truly 3-phase, however.     So called 'High efficiency' washers have them, and so do some window Air conditioners. They eliminate the need for a fancy gearbox and they can reverse direction easily. A smaller motor can be used in some cases. Variable speed is used to reduce energy use on smaller loads.

etpm@whidbey.com: Dec 30 09:45AM -0800 Well, I peeked inside the amp and took off the transformer covers. There are indeed 3 transformers. From what folks have said I half expected to find some sort of weights under the xmfr covers because the amp is so heavy. Nope, just copper and iron. Inside the amp are no solid state devices but for the Bluetooth module, which connects to the input through a relay. So the amp switches automatically between inputs depending on whether the Bluetooth module is recieving a signal. On to the tubes. I turned the amp on again last night and just listened. After a while, maybe 45 minutes, I heard a crackle. Looking carefully at the tubes I noticed that one of the EL34 tubes was glowing brighter at the top than the other EL34 tube. There is a mica disc in the top of the tube and a little of the filament protrudes through a small hole in the mica. And this is what was glowing brighter. I tapped the tube and heard the noise coming out of just the left speaker. Tapping the right side tube produced no noise. I though that maybe one tube was getting more voltage than the other so I waited for things to cool down and then swapped tubes. The same tube got brighter but was now on the right side. So the tube must be bad because the problem travels with the tube and the same tube gets brighter no matter which side it is plugged into. So, anybody have suggestions on tubes? I'm not an audiophile. My hearing isn't good enough. I don't think matched pair tubes would make any difference to me ears. But I can hear well enough so a fairly high quality tube set would be desirable. And I do think I should get a pair so that they will hopefully last tghe same amount of time. Thanks, Eric

Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Dec 30 12:11PM -0600 > So, anybody have suggestions on tubes?   <https://www.tubesandmore.com/products/el34b-valve-art>     -- "I am a river to my people." Jeff-1.0 WA6FWi http:foxsmercantile.com

Trevor Wilson <trevor@rageaudio.com.au>: Dec 31 05:21AM +1100 > pair so that they will hopefully last tghe same amount of time. > Thanks, > Eric   **Sure. Dump it and buy a decent solid state amp. Almost anything will be far more reliable and better sounding. Why bother with a cheap, Chinese tube amp?   -- Trevor Wilson www.rageaudio.com.au

etpm@whidbey.com: Dec 30 10:50AM -0800 On Tue, 31 Dec 2019 05:21:03 +1100, Trevor Wilson   >**Sure. Dump it and buy a decent solid state amp. Almost anything will >be far more reliable and better sounding. Why bother with a cheap, >Chinese tube amp? Because I like it. It sounds good. People spontaneously comment on how good it sounds. Not how it sounds almost as good as a solid state amp. And I like tubes. Are you grumpy today? Eric

etpm@whidbey.com: Dec 30 12:50PM -0800 On Mon, 30 Dec 2019 12:11:47 -0600, Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net> wrote:   >On 12/30/19 11:45 AM, etpm@whidbey.com wrote: >> So, anybody have suggestions on tubes?   ><https://www.tubesandmore.com/products/el34b-valve-art> Thanks Jeff. I may order them today. Trevor at Rage Audio just raged at me and told me to throw away my tube amp. I wonder if the heat Down Under is getting to him? Eric

Trevor Wilson <trevor@rageaudio.com.au>: Dec 31 09:27AM +1100 >> be far more reliable and better sounding. Why bother with a cheap, >> Chinese tube amp? > Because I like it. It sounds good.   **How do you know? Have you compared it to a decent, inexpensive solid state amp? Are you certain that it is not simply acting as an expensive, unreliable filter?   People spontaneously comment on > how good it sounds.   **How would they know? By a very considerable margin, loudspeakers and room acoustics, dominate the sound of a system. All amplifiers, unless they are faulty (like cheap, shitty tube amps) sound very similar. Particularly to listeners who have little of no familiarity with the system.     Not how it sounds almost as good as a solid state > amp. And I like tubes.   **Well, I guess we're different. I like my system to provide a close illusion of the original musical event. No tone controls and no (audible) distortion. If that result can be achieved with tubes (and it can, but it costs a lot), then great. SS does it cheaper and more reliably.   > Are you grumpy today?   **Well, yes, but that's another story. I'm very angry with my global warming denying government. I'm stuck with the morons for a few more years. Just as Americans are stuck with man with the intellect and maturity of a 10 year old boy for POTUS. Still, there is hope. Not much though.   I suggest you try a decent, inexpensive SS amp. Dump the tubes. Good tube amps do sound pretty damned good. Trouble is, they are REALLY expensive. For budget sound systems, SS does it better.     -- Trevor Wilson www.rageaudio.com.au

Trevor Wilson <trevor@rageaudio.com.au>: Dec 31 09:29AM +1100 > at me and told me to throw away my tube amp. I wonder if the heat Down > Under is getting to him? > Eric   **34 degrees here in Sydney today. Not too bad, but the smoke from the bushfires (and the bushfires themselves) is taking it's toll. Depressing stuff. This is going to be our future.   -- Trevor Wilson www.rageaudio.com.au

etpm@whidbey.com: Dec 30 02:34PM -0800 On Tue, 31 Dec 2019 09:27:29 +1100, Trevor Wilson   >I suggest you try a decent, inexpensive SS amp. Dump the tubes. Good >tube amps do sound pretty damned good. Trouble is, they are REALLY >expensive. For budget sound systems, SS does it better. On the 1st Satuday in August I will be roasting my 25th pig. It's an annual party. Why don't you fly up and camp out? We have 10 or 12 wooded acres. I have an extra tent. It's a good party and you can listen to my shitty tube amp and grouse about it while we grouse about our shitty "leaders". I'm sure the amp will sound better than Trump. Eric

Trevor Wilson <trevor@rageaudio.com.au>: Dec 31 09:43AM +1100 > listen to my shitty tube amp and grouse about it while we grouse about > our shitty "leaders". I'm sure the amp will sound better than Trump. > Eric   **Thank you, but no thanks. Pork is not a meat I like to eat.   Have you tried a decent, but inexpensive SS amp?   I'd rather listen to, well, ANYTHING, but Trump.   -- Trevor Wilson www.rageaudio.com.au

John-Del <ohger1s@gmail.com>: Dec 30 03:02PM -0800 > pair so that they will hopefully last tghe same amount of time. > Thanks, > Eric     The Russians make pretty good EL34s these days, but I prefer the old 6CA7s. I still have a small stash of those left.

Trevor Wilson <trevor@rageaudio.com.au>: Dec 31 10:06AM +1100 On 31/12/2019 10:02 am, John-Del wrote: >> Thanks, >> Eric   > The Russians make pretty good EL34s these days, but I prefer the old 6CA7s. I still have a small stash of those left.   **Me too. I have a bunch of those steel, MIL-Spec ones.   -- Trevor Wilson www.rageaudio.com.au

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etpm@whidbey.com: Dec 29 11:29AM -0800 A little over a year ago, or was it two, I bought a Nobsound tube amp. The amp is a type A and operates in the ultra linear mode. It uses 1 5U4C Russian rectifier tube, two Chinese 6N9P tubes and two EL34B tubes. I don't kinow if they are Russian or Chinese. When I first powered it up everything went smoothly but after maybe an hour or so it made this loud static like noise. I promptly turned it off. Deciphering the directions I realized the amp was made to operate on 110 volts, not the 125 typical in my house. Oops. So I wired up a transformer in buck configuration to get 110 volts and tried the amp again. And it has operated fine since. Until a few days ago. Once again the loud static noise. Changing the volume changed nothing and I shut the amp off. After it cooled I pulled each tube out and then re-inserted it thinking that maybe a bad connection may have been the problem. After again powering the amp up it is once again performing flawlessly. So what gives? I have read about red plating, how it damages tubes pretty fast, and am thinking that maybe I damaged the tubes running them at the too high voltage for a while. But why does the amp sound great after it has a chance to cool off? Since the latest incident I have run the amp for about 4 hours straight so I don't think the problem is heat related. I mean just because the amp is hot it doesn't necessarily mean it is going to act up. Both times the amp made this noise it was getting its input from a built in bluetooth reciever. I thought this might be the problem but since the noise is volume control insensitive it seems to me that the problem is probably unrelated to the input. The noise is LOUD too. I mean hurt your ears loud. I never turn the volume up as loud as the static noise was. When I say static I mean scratchy crackling noises, not white noise. Kinda like if someone was dragging one wire across another. Unfortunately I could not tell if the noise was coming from both speakers. I just ran over and turned it off the first time it happened. The second time I tried turning down the volume and then turned it off. Should I be shopping for tubes? And could it be any of the tubes? There are no tube testers local to me. The closest I know of is an hour and a half drive away. Thanks, Eric

"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Dec 30 05:01AM -0800 Chinese amp with Chinese transformers. So:   a) Obtain a dental-tool, one of those devices with a sharp, pointy hook on either end. With this tool, check _EVERY_ connection inside the amp. Look for cold-solders, no-solders, cracked solders and so forth.   b) https://www.stereo.net.au/forums/topic/246417-exposure-of-fake-chinese-tube-amplifier-nobsound-ms-10d-mkii/ With that in mind, it is unlikely that the tubes within that beast have much to do with your issues, so now go to the boards and look for any faulty connections, over heating components (freeze-spray is your friend), raised traces and so forth.   c) Once done with the physical examination, do obtain a metered variable auto-transformer and determine two things: i) At what voltage does B+ kick in? Given a 5U4, should be about 80 V+/- ii) And there should be a definite hard rise in current at that onset. NOTE: You should be drawing within 20% of +/- 50 watts or so, quiescent. If you are drawing substantially less than that, the tubes are eyewash, not functional.   Good luck with it - you will likely need it.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

"jfeng@my-deja.com" <jfeng@my-deja.com>: Dec 30 06:52AM -0800 Is it a mono or stereo amp? If stereo, is the noise identical in both channels? Can you hear suspicious noises coming directly from the electronics (like crackling from the transformers)? In the absence of any diagnostic linformation, my knee-jerk reflex is to suspect the coupling condensers, followed by the cathode bypass and power supply filters. When you have the noise, try freezing one component at a time using freon spray. If you have an oscilloscope, does the noise show up on the power supply b+? These things do not have very many components, and you ought to be able to divide and conquer.

etpm@whidbey.com: Dec 29 12:14PM -0800 I scrapped my GE washing machine. Actually, it scrapped itself when the drum spider broke making repair too expensive to consider. But now I have what appears to be a nice 3 phase motor. The specs are ambiguous. The voltage is listed as variable. The frequencey is listed as variable. The amperage is listed as 2.5 amps. So at least there's that. It is quite heavy. Since I removed all the electronics and the wiring harness I am going to try to get the motor to run on the bench and then measure the voltages at different speeds. I have a pretty nice DVM but I don't know how well it will measure AC voltage at frequencies much above 60 Hz. The meter will measure AC frequency. But I'm guessing that the output from the washing machine VFD is probably pretty far from a good sine wave. The VFD is a pretty simple bare bones unit. Anybody know? I do have a VFD that takes 120 volt single phase input and outputs 230 volts at up to 400 Hz. I would like to run the motor from it if I can but what if the voltage is too high? Can the motor be run at too high voltage for a while without damage? Will too high voltage just cause overheating? Since the motor is VFD rated the insulation must be pretty good so I'm thinking too high voltage is probably OK for at least a few minutes. If I can suss out what the original GE VFD expects for signals from the washing machine control and am able to copy them I will do that. But If I can't then I will want to try another VFD that I know how to control. There are at least two reasons I want to re-use this motor. One is that I hate to throw out good stuff. It pisses me off to waste stuff. Another reason to re-use the motor is that it is a high quality motor. The way it was used in the washer to drive the drum required high quality bearings and general high quality robust construction. The drive belt tension was extremely high so this put a very high side load on the front motor bearing and a high side load on the rear bearing. The motor bearings still feel great and will probably last forever. I'm thinking that with the proper reduction the motor would make a great motor for a small lathe and my son has a 9 inch South Bend that would be much easier to use if it had infinite speed control. Thanks, Eric

Michael Terrell <terrell.michael.a@gmail.com>: Dec 29 01:17PM -0800 > would be much easier to use if it had infinite speed control. > Thanks, > Eric   Did the washer run on 120 or 240? You should have saved the motor control board and the necessary parts of the harness.   The voltage and frequency aren't ambiguous, since the drive voltage has to change with the frequency.

Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Dec 29 03:49PM -0600 On 12/29/19 3:17 PM, Michael Terrell wrote: >> going to try to get the motor to run on the bench and then measure the >> voltages at different speeds. > Did the washer run on 120 or 240? You should have saved the motor control > board and the necessary parts of the harness.   Do you even read what you reply to?     -- "I am a river to my people." Jeff-1.0 WA6FWi http:foxsmercantile.com

Michael Terrell <terrell.michael.a@gmail.com>: Dec 29 02:35PM -0800 On Sunday, December 29, 2019 at 4:49:46 PM UTC-5, Fox's Mercantile wrote: > >> voltages at different speeds. > Did the washer run on 120 or 240? You should have saved the motor control > > board and the necessary parts of the harness.   > Do you even read what you reply to?     Do you ever have a day without PMS? He said his VFD. He gave no information on the one that came with the motor, or if it was in good condition. His statement of 'trying to get it working' is rather vague. It may or may not operate like the stand alone VFD.   I was hoping to get more information out of him, but all you do is bitch. If he can get it to run from the existing drive, yes he can measure the frequency and voltage. From there, he can determine if his 120V VFD can be programmed for his needs.   VFDs aren't that complicated, but a lot of idiots can mess them up. I had to repair a pipe bender at a local Art Canopy factory. They had just moved, and hired a contractor to wire up their machinery. The idiot wired the 208/240 Volt machine to a single 120V circuit. You could stop the thing with your finger.   I made the idiot install the right breaker, then I added a boost transformer to run it off 240 to 245 volts. It ran twice as fast as it had, on 208V.   Aren't you supposed to be working on your latest plans to catch that #$%Z^7 Road Runner? :)

Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Dec 29 05:05PM -0600 On 12/29/19 4:35 PM, Michael Terrell wrote: > I was hoping to get more information out of him, but all > you do is bitch.   And all you do, as usual, is act like an asshole, then make the posting about you and how clever you are and how stupid everyone else is.     -- "I am a river to my people." Jeff-1.0 WA6FWi http:foxsmercantile.com

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Dec 29 05:34PM -0800 >I scrapped my GE washing machine. (...) But now >I have what appears to be a nice 3 phase motor. (...) >I do have a VFD that takes 120 volt single phase input and outputs >230 volts at up to 400 Hz.   Most VFD's can be jumpered for either 120 or 240VAC. Maker and model number would be helpful here.   >I would like to run the motor from it if I >can but what if the voltage is too high?   If the voltage is too high, you'll burn up either the VFD, motor, or both.   >Can the motor be run at too >high voltage for a while without damage?   No. You'll burn up the motor or burn up the VFD from too much current.   >Will too high voltage just >cause overheating?   Yes. You will rapidly begin sweating profusely as the motor begins performing a rapid self-disassembly.   >I'm thinking that with the proper reduction the motor would make a >great motor for a small lathe and my son has a 9 inch South Bend that >would be much easier to use if it had infinite speed control.   Washing machine motors are usually 1/2 or 3/4 horsepower. The South Bend 9" light duty (10K) lathe will suffice with a 3/4 hp motor. The 9" heavy duty flavor (10L) lathe might need a 1 hp motor. Bigger is always better: <http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/viewtopic.php?t=83521> I'm not sure about the RPM but you should be able to extract it from the existing motor's nameplate. More: <https://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/south-bend-lathes/what-correct-9a-motor-size-238473/> <https://groups.google.com/forum/#!topic/rec.crafts.metalworking/uHEsa0IHoxI> etc. Lots more on SB lathe motors, etc found with Google.   You'll probably also need a spindle speed tachometer. Something like this: <https://www.ebay.com/itm/332908532113>   -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

"pfjw@aol.com" <peterwieck33@gmail.com>: Dec 30 05:08AM -0800 3-phase motor on a washing machine? Must be an industrial device, not hardly an over-the-counter consumer device.   With that in mind, you will need a simple 3-phase VFD, as a single device. They may be had with little fuss and at a reasonable cost. Such as:   https://www.automationdirect.com/adc/shopping/catalog/drives_-a-_soft_starters/ac_variable_frequency_drives_(vfd)/micro/drive_units/gs2-21p0?gclid=CjwKCAiA3abwBRBqEiwAKwICA90933xWXOub4tqOEwtiM2NTBIQOIMPluf5Adgkwgq4LVLq26XmkxxoCZ6kQAvD_BwE   Only one of many options.   Do check that the motor is well-and-truly 3-phase, however.   Peter Wieck Melrose Park, PA

dmmadushankadisanayaka@gmail.com: Dec 30 12:12AM -0800 On Tuesday, November 20, 2012 at 12:20:17 AM UTC+5:30, cLx wrote:   > And a little picture of the board : > http://clx.shacknet.nu/random/IMG_5803.JPG   > Thanks !     There are couple of transistors for drive the IGBT. replace those transistors and your problem will be solved.   Thanks

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bruce2bowser@gmail.com: Dec 27 06:34AM -0800 > Properly managed, wind power is vastly cheaper and vastly cleaner than solar power. The issue is, simply, that not every site is amenable to wind.   > Then, there is tidal power. Not cheap, but once the plant is built, it will last pretty much indefinitely.   > Solar power is one of the greatest frauds   You are wrong, wrong, wrong, wrong, wrong, wrong, wrong.   --------------------------------------- Solar Delivers During New England Heatwave [imagine how its going in Death Valley] PV Magazine July 25, 2018 -- https://pv-magazine-usa.com/2018/07/25/heavy-lifting-by-behind-the-meter-solar-power-in-new-england-heatwave/

Lucifer <LuciferMorningstar@bigpond.com>: Dec 27 06:55PM +1100 On Fri, 13 Dec 2019 00:00:54 -0800 (PST), whit3rd <whit3rd@gmail.com> wrote:   >> >> manufacturers use coloured bodies for their resitors? The subsequent >> >> coded bands become *far* more difficult to read.   >> > And some of us (7-10% male, <1% female) are red/green colour challenged,   I am but I still got into Telstra.

Lucifer <LuciferMorningstar@bigpond.com>: Dec 27 06:51PM +1100 On Tue, 17 Dec 2019 15:07:49 -0800 (PST), Jeff Urban > oftware. But still I would rather have the printer on the network.   >Anybody got any idea of what the hell is going on here ? I am not > throwing out this printer.   I have a Ricoh Monochrome network laser printer. I couldn't find a driver for Mac OSX 10.7 so I cobbled one together. It doesn't have all the custom settings but it works.

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whit3rd <whit3rd@gmail.com>: Dec 25 12:14PM -0800 On Wednesday, December 25, 2019 at 2:08:45 AM UTC-8, William Beaty wrote:   > These little GM counters have a typical failure: the 500VDC voltage falls low,... >three zeners in series are used as feedback reference: one of 1N5272 at 110V, and two of 1N5281 at 200V (to create a 510V zener.)   > I found that all three were damaged and leaky   For HV use, these parts should have long lives (they're glass/metal packages, no epoxy). How old IS that unit? Has it been in any odd environments (neutron flux?) ?   Replacement with 1N5388 might be a good idea; the axial parts are stil metal/glass, just have an epoxy overcoat. Surface-mount packages, though, I'd be less sure of.   The glass-package parts DID have some light sensitivity, sometimes, so testing for leakage can be an interesting challenge.

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>: Dec 25 07:32PM -0800 On Wed, 25 Dec 2019 02:08:42 -0800 (PST), William Beaty <billb@eskimo.com> wrote:   <https://seintl.com/radiation-detectors/monitor-4/>   >resistors of value between 1M and 4M. They still checked >out as diodes. But they were conducting at much lower >voltages than their rating.   Offhand, that sounds to me like a dirty, leaky, or water logged PCB. Did you test the diodes with at least one lead lifted from the PCB? If you measured the resistance while the diodes were on the PCB or you did some soldering on the PCB, clean both sides of the PCB first with distilled water, and then with 91% (or better) isopropyl alcohol. If there's no conformal coating, try acetone: <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bus-pdiHLq0>   My Geiger counter doesn't count (sob sob) <https://www.edn.com/my-geiger-counter-doesnt-count-sob-sob/> I have known them fail due to HV leaking from the tube across the PCB. The board has to be very clean, free of any flux etc. Often commercial ones are attached with Teflon spacers to minimize charge leakage.   >They caused the -HVDC value to be around -260V, so the >geiger tube wasn't counting.   Again, you could be measuring board leakage, not diode leakage.   >a 4.7M resistor which leads to the GM tube. All three diodes are in series.   >I didn't have any 1N5281 on hand, so I tried a 1N5279 (180V, >not 200,) and the unit woke up and worked fine.   What you might have done is vaporized any water (or contamination) around the solder pads.   >is down by about 8%, if low by 20+20=40V)   >Note that there's a trimmer pot on the PCB. Possibly for meter >calibrate? I didn't change its setting, measured at 362 ohms.   Dunno. I couldn't find an inside photo or a schematic. My guess(tm) is that the pot is in series or across the meter to set full scale.   -- Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

stratus46@yahoo.com: Dec 25 01:27PM -0800 On Tuesday, December 24, 2019 at 5:40:05 PM UTC-8, Cursitor Doom wrote: > >overheard a couple of men at a hamfest talking scopes and they said the > >Hantek was a better scope.   > I think you'd best delete that comment before JL reads it. ;)   <snip>   I don't think JL has issues with Rigol vs whatever. I have a Rigol DS1054Z and have hacked it to turn on all the options. It reports itself as a DS1104Z (100 MHz version). The case does not need to be opened so the tamper seal is intact. It's a lot of scope for $350. Display freeze between triggers is very helpful when sorting out serial data transfers. Its decoding of the serial stream is also useful.   Merry Christmas   G²

Ralph Mowery <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: Dec 25 05:20PM -0500 In article <8144d537-387f-4442-bd17-60d93080afb0@googlegroups.com>, stratus46@yahoo.com says...   > I don't think JL has issues with Rigol vs whatever. I have a Rigol DS1054Z and have hacked it to turn on all the options. It reports itself as a DS1104Z (100 MHz version). The case does not need to be opened so the tamper seal is intact. It's a lot of scope for $350. Display freeze between triggers is very helpful when sorting out serial data transfers. Its decoding of the serial stream is also useful.   > Merry Christmas   > G²   Some of the electronics comming out of China is a lot for the money. One reason given for the Hantek was it had a larger screen. Very helpful it you turn on the on screen measurments.   I don't know about other digital scopes as I have not used any, but my only complaint so far is that if doing an XY display the circle and other paterns just do not work or show up as clear as they do on the older analog scopes.

Fox's Mercantile <jdangus@att.net>: Dec 25 06:08PM -0600 On 12/25/19 4:20 PM, Ralph Mowery wrote: > I don't know about other digital scopes as I have not used any   And then there's the gold standard of digital scopes. The HP infinium. I have one in my shop I acquired for next to nothing. <https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/R2EAAOSw6btXTP8Y/s-l1600.jpg>     -- "I am a river to my people." Jeff-1.0 WA6FWi http:foxsmercantile.com

Ralph Mowery <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: Dec 25 07:39PM -0500 In article <mOedndHSC792ZJ7DnZ2dnUU7-e_NnZ2d@giganews.com>, jdangus@att.net says... > The HP infinium. > I have one in my shop I acquired for next to nothing. > <https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/R2EAAOSw6btXTP8Y/s-l1600.jpg>   No argument here if one has the gold, or as in your case acquire it for next to nothing.

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William Beaty <billb@eskimo.com>: Dec 25 02:08AM -0800 Monitor 4, "Radiation Alert" S. E. International Inc, Summertown TN   These little GM counters have a typical failure: the 500VDC voltage falls low, as the zener regulation diodes become damaged.   In the power supply circuit on the PCB, three zeners in series are used as feedback reference: one of 1N5272 at 110V, and two of 1N5281 at 200V (to create a 510V zener.)   I found that all three were damaged and leaky, resembling resistors of value between 1M and 4M. They still checked out as diodes. But they were conducting at much lower voltages than their rating. They caused the -HVDC value to be around -260V, so the geiger tube wasn't counting.   On the PCB, the first diode is connected between a 470K resistor and a 4.7M resistor which leads to the GM tube. All three diodes are in series.   I didn't have any 1N5281 on hand, so I tried a 1N5279 (180V, not 200,) and the unit woke up and worked fine. It might not give calibrated meter readings though, since the energy of each pulse might be down to ((510-40)/(510))^2, or 85% (since the HV supply is down by about 8%, if low by 20+20=40V)   Note that there's a trimmer pot on the PCB. Possibly for meter calibrate? I didn't change its setting, measured at 362 ohms.

Cursitor Doom <cd@notformail.com>: Dec 25 01:40AM On Mon, 23 Dec 2019 18:45:50 -0500, Ralph Mowery   >I bought a Hantek a few years back. Was going to go with a Rigol, but >overheard a couple of men at a hamfest talking scopes and they said the >Hantek was a better scope.   I think you'd best delete that comment before JL reads it. ;)   --   "When constituencies are small their elected representatives must concern themselves with the local interests of their constituents. When political representatives are distant and faceless, on the other hand, and represent vast numbers of unknown constituents, they represent not their constituents, but special interest groups whose lobbyists are numerous and ever present. Typically in Europe a technocrat is an ex-politician or a civil servant. He is unelected, virtually impossible to dislodge during his term of employment and has been granted extensive executive and even legislative power without popular mandate and without being directly answerable to the people whose interests he falsely purports to represent."   - Sir James Goldsmith (Member of the European Parliament) 1933 - 1997

tiger56usmc@gmail.com: Dec 24 12:09PM -0800 > Did you ever get a schematic because I need one for mine too. > Can you send me one via email pdf > sanfy@netease.com   HEY I NEED A SCHEMATIC ALSO NO SOUND REPLACED BIG IC's and small caps still no sound ANYONE HAVE A diagram of parts

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Trevor Wilson <trevor@rageaudio.com.au>: Dec 24 10:25AM +1100 A mate wants to replace his aging Tek DSO with a cheap 'n cheerful Chinese jobbie, like this:   https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Hantek-DSO5102P-Digital-Oscilloscope-2-Channels-100MHz-1GSa-s/264259901849?hash=item3d871e1999:g:JooAAOSwc6paDVHd   I have a Rigol DS1054z and am very pleased with it, but his budget doesn't stretch that far. The Hantek looks decent enough and has Aussie distribution.   Anyone have experience with the brand?   Siglent?   Etc?   -- Trevor Wilson www.rageaudio.com.au

Ralph Mowery <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: Dec 23 06:45PM -0500 In article <h6d0n9Fbh7vU1@mid.individual.net>, trevor@rageaudio.com.au says... > doesn't stretch that far. The Hantek looks decent enough and has Aussie > distribution.   > Anyone have experience with the brand?   I bought a Hantek a few years back. Was going to go with a Rigol, but overheard a couple of men at a hamfest talking scopes and they said the Hantek was a better scope. a friend bought one a year or so later. I think the Hantek is along the same line as the Rigol.   There are some hacks on youtube to extend the frequency ranges of the scopes. I have not tried any of them It could be the scopes need some componet changes to make use of the extended bandwidth. I don't know.

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Michael Mud <michael.muderick@gmail.com>: Dec 22 08:53AM -0800 I use a few of these boxes on older tv's. They are the ones Radio Shack sold. I like to use them with timers, which I program more than a day ahead. The a/d boxes ARE NOT PLUGGED into the timers. What I'm finding is that they shut down on their own, after sitting idle for a number of hours. Are they dependent on a tv being on to stay on? Is there a sensing circuit, or are they just old and tired. TIA.

whit3rd <whit3rd@gmail.com>: Dec 22 04:19PM -0800 On Sunday, December 22, 2019 at 8:53:45 AM UTC-8, Michael Mud wrote: > I use a few of these boxes on older tv's. They are the ones Radio Shack sold. I like to use them with timers, which I program more than a day ahead. The a/d boxes ARE NOT PLUGGED into the timers. What I'm finding is that they shut down on their own, after sitting idle for a number of hours. Are they dependent on a tv being on to stay on? Is there a sensing circuit, or are they just old and tired. TIA.   There's a 'sleep timer' or similar named function; it can be turned off, with the menu. The setting is intended to be nonvolatile, so you don't need to visit it often.

Michael Mud <michael.muderick@gmail.com>: Dec 23 06:31AM -0800 On Sunday, December 22, 2019 at 7:19:09 PM UTC-5, whit3rd wrote: > > I use a few of these boxes on older tv's. They are the ones Radio Shack sold. I like to use them with timers, which I program more than a day ahead. The a/d boxes ARE NOT PLUGGED into the timers. What I'm finding is that they shut down on their own, after sitting idle for a number of hours. Are they dependent on a tv being on to stay on? Is there a sensing circuit, or are they just old and tired. TIA.   > There's a 'sleep timer' or similar named function; it can be turned off, with the menu. > The setting is intended to be nonvolatile, so you don't need to visit it often.   WOW. Thank you. I'm sure that's the problem. Didn't know it existed. Happy Holidays

jjhudak4@gmail.com: Dec 22 09:04AM -0800 On Saturday, December 21, 2019 at 12:56:45 PM UTC-5, Ralph Mowery wrote: > month use.   > I just put one on order as a spare at that price. There are several > sellers at that price and several more at the $ 50 or so range.   FWIW, as a general warning, many of these types of units have bad wiring and violated basics safety principals, such as proper grounding, improper fuse placement/rating or most likely no fuse at all. In this and various other electronic/electrical NGs, there are discussions about what people find. Do some googling about your device of interest and see if ppl have complained. You may have to do some re-engineering to make the thing safe. While the pricing of this stuff is really attractive, I will get this stuff from reputable mfg.

Michael Terrell <terrell.michael.a@gmail.com>: Dec 22 02:25PM -0800 On Saturday, December 21, 2019 at 12:56:45 PM UTC-5, Ralph Mowery wrote: > month use.   > I just put one on order as a spare at that price. There are several > sellers at that price and several more at the $ 50 or so range.     I tried to buy one of these, last year. About two weeks later, Ebay refunded the money, and the seller no longer had an account on Ebay. Like in these ads, there were hundreds sold, and decent feedback. Also, you have to be careful. Some sellers don't tell you that their soldering tools are 240VAC instead of 120 VAC.

Ralph Mowery <rmowery28146@earthlink.net>: Dec 22 06:10PM -0500 In article <1bc9d1f5-c699-48da-bf06-57127a8c990d@googlegroups.com>, terrell.michael.a@gmail.com says...   > I tried to buy one of these, last year. About two weeks later, Ebay refunded the money, and the seller no longer had an account on Ebay. Like in these ads, there were hundreds sold, and decent feedback. Also, you have to be careful. Some sellers don't tell you that their soldering tools are 240VAC instead of 120 VAC.   I was mostly courious to see if I could get one for the $ 13 price. It does sound too good to be true. It would make a good spare unit for the one I already have.     The 240 volt problem is something to keep in mind.   Going through ebay and paypal I doubt I will loose any money, but $ 13 won't break me. I have gotten 2 refunds when I did not get the items from China. I never order anything from over seas if I really want it or want it in a week or two. I have probably bought 2 or 3 hundred items from over seas. Good results from all but 2 that was made good. Most were in the $ 10 range. Amazing what kind of trinkets you can get from there for almost nothing. Most work like I expect them to.   I look on Youtube for some of the items and ofen see where someone has modified them to work much better for a few dollars of parts. I just modified a $ 15 audio generator from the Youtube instructions for another $ 5 that makes it work much better. I have enough parts left over from that to do several more.

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