sci.electronics.repair - 25 new messages in 14 topics - digest

sci.electronics.repair
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TOPIC: Picture tube degaussing
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/a6f0cc34cbf52c0b?hl=en
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== 1 of 10 ==
Date: Wed, Apr 21 2010 11:18 pm
From: D Yuniskis

Hi Ron,

Ron Weston wrote:
> Nothing unusual happened to cause the green spots. The TV hasn't been
> moved in years and no magnets were placed near the TV. Any theories
> about what happened?

Any nearby lightning strikes?

== 2 of 10 ==
Date: Thurs, Apr 22 2010 4:22 am
From: Meat Plow

On Thu, 22 Apr 2010 00:01:33 -0400, Ron Weston <RonW@nosuch.com>wrote:

>My friend has an inexpensive 9-inch TV, about 6 to 10 years old. It
>suddenly developed two green spots on the screen, one in the upper
>right corner and one in the lower right corner.
>
>I have a "GC Electronics Professional Degaussing Coil" and I made two
>attempts to degauss the TV picture tube. After the second try the
>lower green spot was just about gone, and the upper spot is much
>smaller but can still be seen.
>
>I'm going to try again next week and I would like some advice. In my
>attempts so far I moved the degaussing coil around only the front of
>the TV. Should I try degaussing the sides, top or back of the TV, or
>might this make things worse?
>
>Nothing unusual happened to cause the green spots. The TV hasn't been
>moved in years and no magnets were placed near the TV. Any theories
>about what happened?

Have your friend hide the magnets from the kids. The internal degauss
should take care of the remaining spots provided it works.

== 3 of 10 ==
Date: Thurs, Apr 22 2010 4:49 am
From: PeterD

On Wed, 21 Apr 2010 23:26:59 -0500, AZ Nomad
<aznomad.3@PremoveOBthisOX.COM> wrote:

>On Thu, 22 Apr 2010 00:01:33 -0400, Ron Weston <RonW@nosuch.com> wrote:
>>My friend has an inexpensive 9-inch TV, about 6 to 10 years old. It
>>suddenly developed two green spots on the screen, one in the upper
>>right corner and one in the lower right corner.
>
>>I have a "GC Electronics Professional Degaussing Coil" and I made two
>>attempts to degauss the TV picture tube. After the second try the
>>lower green spot was just about gone, and the upper spot is much
>>smaller but can still be seen.
>
>>I'm going to try again next week and I would like some advice. In my
>>attempts so far I moved the degaussing coil around only the front of
>>the TV. Should I try degaussing the sides, top or back of the TV, or
>>might this make things worse?
>
>>Nothing unusual happened to cause the green spots. The TV hasn't been
>>moved in years and no magnets were placed near the TV. Any theories
>>about what happened?
>
>Any young children?

Absolutely, highly magentized small/young children mess up TV sets all
the time! <g>

But in addition to young children (with their magnetized toys) any
nearby lightning strikes?

And as Phil says, you should check the built-in degaussing coil.

And yes, do the sides of the set near the face of the CRT.

== 4 of 10 ==
Date: Thurs, Apr 22 2010 5:23 am
From: "William Sommerwerck"

I'm wondering if a bit of banging might help. But it's not clear how, "just
sitting around", the shadow mask might have gotten deformed.

== 5 of 10 ==
Date: Thurs, Apr 22 2010 6:20 am
From: AZ Nomad

On Thu, 22 Apr 2010 05:23:59 -0700, William Sommerwerck <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote:
>I'm wondering if a bit of banging might help. But it's not clear how, "just
>sitting around", the shadow mask might have gotten deformed.

The "tool" I used to use for massive degausing was a bulk tape eraser.

== 6 of 10 ==
Date: Thurs, Apr 22 2010 8:24 am
From: "hr(bob) hofmann@att.net"

On Apr 22, 6:49 am, PeterD <pet...@hipson.net> wrote:
> On Wed, 21 Apr 2010 23:26:59 -0500, AZ Nomad
>
>
>
>
>
> <aznoma...@PremoveOBthisOX.COM> wrote:
> >On Thu, 22 Apr 2010 00:01:33 -0400, Ron Weston <R...@nosuch.com> wrote:
> >>My friend has an inexpensive 9-inch TV, about 6 to 10 years old. It
> >>suddenly developed two green spots on the screen, one in the upper
> >>right corner and one in the lower right corner.
>
> >>I have a "GC Electronics Professional Degaussing Coil" and I made two
> >>attempts to degauss the TV picture tube. After the second try the
> >>lower green spot was just about gone, and the upper spot is much
> >>smaller but can still be seen.
>
> >>I'm going to try again next week and I would like some advice. In my
> >>attempts so far I moved the degaussing coil around only the front of
> >>the TV. Should I try degaussing the sides, top or back of the TV, or
> >>might this make things worse?
>
> >>Nothing unusual happened to cause the green spots. The TV hasn't been
> >>moved in years and no magnets were placed near the TV. Any theories
> >>about what happened?
>
> >Any young children?
>
> Absolutely, highly magentized small/young children mess up TV sets all
> the time! <g>
>
> But in addition to young children (with their magnetized toys) any
> nearby lightning strikes?
>
> And as Phil says, you should check the built-in degaussing coil.
>
> And yes, do the sides of the set near the face of the CRT.- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

can you hear the degaussing action when you first turn the set on
after it has been off for several minutes?

== 7 of 10 ==
Date: Thurs, Apr 22 2010 8:53 am
From: Robert Macy

On Apr 22, 6:20 am, AZ Nomad <aznoma...@PremoveOBthisOX.COM> wrote:
> On Thu, 22 Apr 2010 05:23:59 -0700, William Sommerwerck <grizzledgee...@comcast.net> wrote:
> >I'm wondering if a bit of banging might help. But it's not clear how, "just
> >sitting around", the shadow mask might have gotten deformed.
>
> The "tool" I used to use for massive degausing was a bulk tape eraser.

and in a pinch, use a cheap electric pencil sharpener.

Those motors produce a lot of field

But always, always be careful of deforming the internal screen!

== 8 of 10 ==
Date: Thurs, Apr 22 2010 9:56 am
From: "William R. Walsh"

Hi!

> Have your friend hide the magnets from the kids. The internal
> degauss should take care of the remaining spots provided it
> works.

Sometimes it isn't stout enough to do the job. Some years back, my
younger brothers managed to put a faint "blob" on a MAG Innovision 17"
CRT. No amount of degaussing with the monitor's built in coil would do
the job. Even though the coil came on at every power up, it just
didn't seem to have the oomph. Operating it manually through the
monitor's menu did not help.

Being busy at the time, I took a quick look and decided that they'd
damaged the monitor's picture tube. And then, after a while, I managed
to acquire a large electric bulk eraser, which I eventually decided to
try using as a degaussing wand for this monitor.

It worked brilliantly. I started from several feet away by turning it
on and moved very slowly toward the CRT itself. Then I ran it slowly
around the CRT face, maintaining several inches worth of distance.
When I was satisfied, I moved away the same several feet and shut the
coil off.

William

== 9 of 10 ==
Date: Thurs, Apr 22 2010 11:47 am
From: Ron Weston

Thanks for the replies so far. My friend is a senior citizen and lives
alone, so no children have been near the TV. There have been lightning
storms so that may be what caused her TV problem.

I have a bulk tape eraser. When I visit again first I'll try my
degaussing coil on the side of the TV as well as the front, and if
that doesn't work I'll try the eraser.

I'll report back what happens.

Ron Weston <RonW@nosuch.com> wrote:

== 10 of 10 ==
Date: Thurs, Apr 22 2010 11:01 am
From: bz

"William R. Walsh" <wm_walsh@hotmail.com> wrote in news:976ab687-72ed-487d-
826d-ea5359e01050@z3g2000yqz.googlegroups.com:

> Hi!
>
>> Have your friend hide the magnets from the kids. The internal
>> degauss should take care of the remaining spots provided it
>> works.
>
> Sometimes it isn't stout enough to do the job. Some years back, my
> younger brothers managed to put a faint "blob" on a MAG Innovision 17"
> CRT. No amount of degaussing with the monitor's built in coil would do
> the job. Even though the coil came on at every power up, it just
> didn't seem to have the oomph. Operating it manually through the
> monitor's menu did not help.
>
> Being busy at the time, I took a quick look and decided that they'd
> damaged the monitor's picture tube. And then, after a while, I managed
> to acquire a large electric bulk eraser, which I eventually decided to
> try using as a degaussing wand for this monitor.
>
> It worked brilliantly. I started from several feet away by turning it
> on and moved very slowly toward the CRT itself. Then I ran it slowly
> around the CRT face, maintaining several inches worth of distance.
> When I was satisfied, I moved away the same several feet and shut the
> coil off.
>
> William

I have successfully degaussed CRT monitors using an old magnetron magnet
suspended from a stout rubber band fastened to a bent wire in the a hole in
the center of the magnet.

I would wind up the magnet/rubber band combo and let it spin rapidly
Holding it near the monitor and slowly moving it away as it spun.

Any strong and rapidly spinning magnet that is aligned so that the magnetic
field alternates directions should work.

Some 'bulk erasers' spin a magnet using an electric motor.

--
bz 73 de N5BZ k

please pardon my infinite ignorance, the set-of-things-I-do-not-know is an
infinite set.

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== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Thurs, Apr 22 2010 4:51 am
From: PeterD

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== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Thurs, Apr 22 2010 6:55 am
From: zekfrivo@zekfrivolous.com (GregS)

In article <usk6ov087.fsf@repairfaq.org>, sam@repairfaq.org (Samuel M. Goldwasser) wrote:
>zekfrivo@zekfrivolous.com (GregS) writes:
>
>> I am looking for a power connector pinout on this supply.
>> Not the remote connector. Most of the connections are apparent, but
>> I'm trying to verify a fan output, as I'm told.
>
>Should be close to the other supplies that run similar lasers:
>
>http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/laserasc.htm#ascom15
>

Thats looks good.

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jacket zippers

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Fender Twin reverb from 1979
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/5ed19ff4ba61ec1a?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Thurs, Apr 22 2010 9:24 am
From: "N_Cook"

Assuming I cannot get 1.5 inch long UNC 8/32 bolts in the UK, other than a
hundred or stupid min order quotes, any suggestions. ? I cannot return this
amp , despite repair, as it is unsafe. The 4 vertically mounted screws that
litterally hold the amp into the cab are stripped to next to useless. Not
captive nuts , nor spire nuts in the chassis part, sort of combination of
both.
Stamped something like
CIP-MUL 832
54 950 / 075
So either woodwork fitting battens along the sides to support amp should
what is left of the screwthreads fail, but amp would be loose then, but not
fall out as such. Or fit metric captive nuts into the chassis and replace
the screws with metric. Or any other work-around suggestions.
I'm not interested in purists opinions , decrying non-originality. The
owners mistreat the amp and can keep the originals along with the all too
tempting-to-turn rear voltage selector knob . Fine for USA but out and out
safety hazzard in the UK, especially the way this lot abuse their kit.
Removed and plated off over the spindle and knob fitted internally inside
the amp for any later purists. Not enough thread for a spindle lock.

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Thurs, Apr 22 2010 10:41 am
From: Meat Plow

On Thu, 22 Apr 2010 17:24:57 +0100, "N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk>wrote:

>Assuming I cannot get 1.5 inch long UNC 8/32 bolts in the UK, other than a
>hundred or stupid min order quotes, any suggestions. ? I cannot return this
>amp , despite repair, as it is unsafe. The 4 vertically mounted screws that
>litterally hold the amp into the cab are stripped to next to useless. Not
>captive nuts , nor spire nuts in the chassis part, sort of combination of
>both.
>Stamped something like
>CIP-MUL 832
>54 950 / 075
>So either woodwork fitting battens along the sides to support amp should
>what is left of the screwthreads fail, but amp would be loose then, but not
>fall out as such. Or fit metric captive nuts into the chassis and replace
>the screws with metric. Or any other work-around suggestions.
>I'm not interested in purists opinions , decrying non-originality. The
>owners mistreat the amp and can keep the originals along with the all too
>tempting-to-turn rear voltage selector knob . Fine for USA but out and out
>safety hazzard in the UK, especially the way this lot abuse their kit.
>Removed and plated off over the spindle and knob fitted internally inside
>the amp for any later purists. Not enough thread for a spindle lock.
>

Remove the captive nuts and replace with the correct length bolts with
counter-sunk heads and non-captive nuts with a flat washer against the
chassis and star washer on top. This has been done many times
especially when captive nuts are lost as they can pop out easily.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Detectron Geiger Counter
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/172aa0a4a231f69a?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Thurs, Apr 22 2010 10:41 am
From: "Chris F."

I recently bought an old Detectron model DG-7 geiger counter. This is from
the early 50's and has three 1U5 tubes inside. Power requirements are 90
volts for the B+, two "D" cells for the tube filaments, and a 4.5 volt bias
supply.
I went over the unit, replacing a selenium rectifier and testing the
tubes. The unit powers up, but generates a steady stream of pulses on it's
own, even with the probe detached. The frequency of the oscillation varies
with the range selector knob. The probe is working - when brought near a
source (a bunch of vaseline marbles) it will produce extra clicks in
addition to the stray ones generated by the unit.
I've checked all the other components - resistors, capacitors, etc. The
only thing I couldn't check is a very small tube, which looks like a
cold-cathode rectifier of some kind. I've also tried varying the B+ and bias
voltages. And I can't find a schematic, which makes matters worse.
I'm not sure what to do next. Any ideas?

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Fluke 87 Replacement LCD - Design Flaw
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/8c81476f16a267cd?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Thurs, Apr 22 2010 10:52 am
From: "Paul Hovnanian P.E."

So I received the new LCD and installed it. Meter works fine now. But I
noticed a flaw in the design of the meter: The corners of the LCD glass
project beyond the corners of the plastic retaining bezel. Now I'm not
certain what the clearance will be once the assembly is installed in the
meter case. But its possible that, due to a violent shock, the meter
innards could shift inside the case resulting in the LCD glass corner to
strike the inside of the case. That's what appears to have happened when I
dropped my meter.

--
Paul Hovnanian paul@hovnanian.com
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Have gnu, will travel.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Safety of microwave cooking
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/52932f2e95be2ee9?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Thurs, Apr 22 2010 10:54 am
From: "Paul Hovnanian P.E."

Adrian C wrote:

> On 14/04/2010 18:56, Paul Hovnanian P.E. wrote:
>
>> More so with plain old cooking (see:
>> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nitrosamine)
>>
>
> It says on that page
>
> "The presence of nitrosamines may be identified by the Liebermann's
> reaction"
>
> Er, Jeff ??
>

You hold him down while I feed this stuff to him. Then we'll see if its safe
or not.
;-)

--
Paul Hovnanian paul@hovnanian.com
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Have gnu, will travel.

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Thurs, Apr 22 2010 10:55 am
From: "Paul Hovnanian P.E."

Jeff Liebermann wrote:

> On Thu, 15 Apr 2010 20:17:39 GMT, mzenier@eskimo.com (Mark Zenier)
> wrote:
>
>>And if you google "french frys cancer" you get refered to Acrylamide.
>
> Anti-Cancer Drugs in French Fries: Good Idea?
>
<http://www.diet-blog.com/archives/2009/12/23/anti-cancer_drugs_in_french_fries_good_idea.php>
>
> Most of the links I read quoted the original 2002 study in Sweden that
> eventually showed *NO* correlation between acrylamide and cancer in
> rodents.
>
> "Further, the International Journal of Cancer found no link
> between acrylamide consumption and cancer of the oral cavity,
> pharynx, esophagus, larynx, large bowel, breast and ovaries."
>
> However, there are plenty of dietary reasons to justify avoiding fried
> foods.

Better to feed the fries to the rats and then eat the rats.

--
Paul Hovnanian paul@hovnanian.com
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Have gnu, will travel.

==============================================================================

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