sci.electronics.repair - 25 new messages in 5 topics - digest

sci.electronics.repair
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair?hl=en

sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Today's topics:

* ATX power supply fan noisy. - 6 messages, 3 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/c9cc85470d364e01?hl=en
* LCD Desktop Monitor Fading to White, then Black - 15 messages, 11 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/2c04885c7b46754a?hl=en
* wholesael brand t-shirts (armani, chanel.D&G, gucci , lv, versace )-----www.
sourcesoso.com - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/1af8f4a9e7a81a90?hl=en
* PSU eval. # n3252w View Sonic, Model vs11335-1m - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/309ceaf8a98ba4e8?hl=en
* Part # of Magnetron for Microwave Oven Emerson MW9107WC - 2 messages, 2
authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/f77addde8cb547fd?hl=en

==============================================================================
TOPIC: ATX power supply fan noisy.
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/c9cc85470d364e01?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 6 ==
Date: Sun, May 2 2010 12:34 am
From: Ian Jackson

In message <_IednQW6vL_VJUHWnZ2dnUVZ_jidnZ2d@earthlink.com>, Michael A.
Terrell <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> writes
>
>Ian Jackson wrote:
>>
>> In message <JMadnWcTILZFPUHWnZ2dnUVZ_gWdnZ2d@earthlink.com>, Michael A.
>> Terrell <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> writes
>> >
>> >Ian Jackson wrote:
>> >>
>> >> My PSU fan seized solid, very solid (nice and quiet, though). The
>> >> replacement seemed rather noisy for my tastes. I eventually got the
>> >> original fan freed off. [It needed the application of a hot soldering
>> >> iron to the end of the spindle.] It ran for 18 months after being well
>> >> re-oiled with WD40. It was still going fine when, some time ago, I doing
>> >> a spot of once-in-a-while spring cleaning inside the case. So I re-oiled
>> >> it again with some '3-in-1' oil. It's still running fine.
>> >
>> >
>> > WD40 isn't a lubricant. It was developed for 'Water Displacement',
>> >or in plain english, to spray on ignition wires that got wet.
>> >
>> Regardless of what it was developed for, WD40 does leave an oily layer.
>> It penetrates well, and prevents/halts rust. It also serves as a
>> sort-term lubricant. Despite what the purists might say, it does work
>> well as a switch cleaner/lubricant.
>
>
> Which dries into a nasty, insulating film over time. I use PTFE to
>lube small motors. It Works a lot better than WD40 ever could, and lasts
>a lot longer.
>
><http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2102643>
>
>
>> > Which '3-in-1' oil. That is a brand, not a type.
>> >
>> It's the type in a small metal tin with a plastic nozzle - the very same
>> tin I've had on a shelf at the back of the garage for about 40 years. I
>> haven't a clue what the official grade is, other than its the general
>> purpose domestic stuff, like you'd use for oiling door hinges and
>> bicycle chains. And latterly, of course, computer
>
>
> '3-in-1' does make an electric motor oil.
>
Don't get me wrong. I'm not 'recommending' WD40 or 3-in-1 bicycle oil
for lubricating computer fans. It's just that I needed something, and
those were what I had immediately at hand. The sky did not fall, and
continues not to do so.
--
Ian

== 2 of 6 ==
Date: Sun, May 2 2010 8:49 am
From: "Michael A. Terrell"

Ian Jackson wrote:
>
> In message <_IednQW6vL_VJUHWnZ2dnUVZ_jidnZ2d@earthlink.com>, Michael A.
> Terrell <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> writes
> >
> >Ian Jackson wrote:
> >>
> >> In message <JMadnWcTILZFPUHWnZ2dnUVZ_gWdnZ2d@earthlink.com>, Michael A.
> >> Terrell <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> writes
> >> >
> >> >Ian Jackson wrote:
> >> >>
> >> >> My PSU fan seized solid, very solid (nice and quiet, though). The
> >> >> replacement seemed rather noisy for my tastes. I eventually got the
> >> >> original fan freed off. [It needed the application of a hot soldering
> >> >> iron to the end of the spindle.] It ran for 18 months after being well
> >> >> re-oiled with WD40. It was still going fine when, some time ago, I doing
> >> >> a spot of once-in-a-while spring cleaning inside the case. So I re-oiled
> >> >> it again with some '3-in-1' oil. It's still running fine.
> >> >
> >> >
> >> > WD40 isn't a lubricant. It was developed for 'Water Displacement',
> >> >or in plain english, to spray on ignition wires that got wet.
> >> >
> >> Regardless of what it was developed for, WD40 does leave an oily layer.
> >> It penetrates well, and prevents/halts rust. It also serves as a
> >> sort-term lubricant. Despite what the purists might say, it does work
> >> well as a switch cleaner/lubricant.
> >
> >
> > Which dries into a nasty, insulating film over time. I use PTFE to
> >lube small motors. It Works a lot better than WD40 ever could, and lasts
> >a lot longer.
> >
> ><http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2102643>
> >
> >
> >> > Which '3-in-1' oil. That is a brand, not a type.
> >> >
> >> It's the type in a small metal tin with a plastic nozzle - the very same
> >> tin I've had on a shelf at the back of the garage for about 40 years. I
> >> haven't a clue what the official grade is, other than its the general
> >> purpose domestic stuff, like you'd use for oiling door hinges and
> >> bicycle chains. And latterly, of course, computer
> >
> >
> > '3-in-1' does make an electric motor oil.
> >
> Don't get me wrong. I'm not 'recommending' WD40 or 3-in-1 bicycle oil
> for lubricating computer fans. It's just that I needed something, and
> those were what I had immediately at hand. The sky did not fall, and
> continues not to do so.

I have had to clean up a lot of messes caused by people who used both
of those. I know gun collectors who have spent a lot of time removing
the hardened film of WD 40 off of the gun parts they are restoring.
They won't even allow a can of it around their homes or shops.

--
Anyone wanting to run for any political office in the US should have to
have a DD214, and a honorable discharge.

== 3 of 6 ==
Date: Sun, May 2 2010 9:41 am
From: Ian Jackson

In message <PdmdnafF4qSdAkDWnZ2dnUVZ_hydnZ2d@earthlink.com>, Michael A.
Terrell <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> writes
>
>Ian Jackson wrote:
>>
>> In message <_IednQW6vL_VJUHWnZ2dnUVZ_jidnZ2d@earthlink.com>, Michael A.
>> Terrell <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> writes
>> >
>> >Ian Jackson wrote:
>> >>
>> >> In message <JMadnWcTILZFPUHWnZ2dnUVZ_gWdnZ2d@earthlink.com>, Michael A.
>> >> Terrell <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> writes
>> >> >
>> >> >Ian Jackson wrote:
>> >> >>
>> >> >> My PSU fan seized solid, very solid (nice and quiet, though). The
>> >> >> replacement seemed rather noisy for my tastes. I eventually got the
>> >> >> original fan freed off. [It needed the application of a hot soldering
>> >> >> iron to the end of the spindle.] It ran for 18 months after being well
>> >> >> re-oiled with WD40. It was still going fine when, some time
>> >> >>doing
>> >> >> a spot of once-in-a-while spring cleaning inside the case. So I
>> >> >>oiled
>> >> >> it again with some '3-in-1' oil. It's still running fine.
>> >> >
>> >> >
>> >> > WD40 isn't a lubricant. It was developed for 'Water Displacement',
>> >> >or in plain english, to spray on ignition wires that got wet.
>> >> >
>> >> Regardless of what it was developed for, WD40 does leave an oily layer.
>> >> It penetrates well, and prevents/halts rust. It also serves as a
>> >> sort-term lubricant. Despite what the purists might say, it does work
>> >> well as a switch cleaner/lubricant.
>> >
>> >
>> > Which dries into a nasty, insulating film over time. I use PTFE to
>> >lube small motors. It Works a lot better than WD40 ever could, and lasts
>> >a lot longer.
>> >
>> ><http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2102643>
>> >
>> >
>> >> > Which '3-in-1' oil. That is a brand, not a type.
>> >> >
>> >> It's the type in a small metal tin with a plastic nozzle - the very same
>> >> tin I've had on a shelf at the back of the garage for about 40 years. I
>> >> haven't a clue what the official grade is, other than its the general
>> >> purpose domestic stuff, like you'd use for oiling door hinges and
>> >> bicycle chains. And latterly, of course, computer
>> >
>> >
>> > '3-in-1' does make an electric motor oil.
>> >
>> Don't get me wrong. I'm not 'recommending' WD40 or 3-in-1 bicycle oil
>> for lubricating computer fans. It's just that I needed something, and
>> those were what I had immediately at hand. The sky did not fall, and
>> continues not to do so.
>
>
> I have had to clean up a lot of messes caused by people who used both
>of those. I know gun collectors who have spent a lot of time removing
>the hardened film of WD 40 off of the gun parts they are restoring.
>They won't even allow a can of it around their homes or shops.
>
It's a funny old world. The things that some people swear BY are often
exactly the same things that others swear AT!
--
Ian

== 4 of 6 ==
Date: Sun, May 2 2010 10:51 am
From: UCLAN

Michael A. Terrell wrote:

>>>>> Which '3-in-1' oil. That is a brand, not a type.
>>>>
>>>>It's the type in a small metal tin with a plastic nozzle - the very same
>>>>tin I've had on a shelf at the back of the garage for about 40 years. I
>>>>haven't a clue what the official grade is, other than its the general
>>>>purpose domestic stuff, like you'd use for oiling door hinges and
>>>>bicycle chains. And latterly, of course, computer
>>>
>>> '3-in-1' does make an electric motor oil.
>>
>>My favorite "3-in-1" product:
>>
>>http://www.3inone.com/products/white-lithium-grease/
>
> I use lithium grease, but another brand that I can pick up from a car
> parts dealer just down the street. I also use PB Blaster and Breakfree.

I like the "3-in-1" spray on lithium grease because I can reach hard to
get to places with the spray tube, yet it dries with the consistency of
regular lithium grease.

== 5 of 6 ==
Date: Sun, May 2 2010 11:05 am
From: UCLAN

mm wrote:

>>Any 2-wire, 80mm, 12VDC, 0.30A (approx) will do. Got a Radio Shack nearby?
>>http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2102826 will do.
>>
>>Probably cheaper at some place like Frys.
>
> Radio shack has a great webpage in many ways, but one enormous flaw is
> that if you click on a link, it might say the part is out of stock,
> even when stores have it.

As with all websites (Petco, Best Buy, Home Depot, etc.) information
given for a product (availability, price, etc.) is for the website
ONLY! There is no way a website can pretend to keep up with the stock
details of thousands of retail stores. And only in a minority of cases
does a retail store match the price of a website. Only a fool would
think that a website saying "out-of-stock" would necessarily mean that
a retail store in BF, Iowa, was also out of stock.

I just bought a nice vinyl screen door (I'm 200' from the ocean) from
Home Depot that wasn't even available on their website. Apples and
oranges.

== 6 of 6 ==
Date: Sun, May 2 2010 1:30 pm
From: "Michael A. Terrell"

UCLAN wrote:
>
> Michael A. Terrell wrote:
>
> >>>>> Which '3-in-1' oil. That is a brand, not a type.
> >>>>
> >>>>It's the type in a small metal tin with a plastic nozzle - the very same
> >>>>tin I've had on a shelf at the back of the garage for about 40 years. I
> >>>>haven't a clue what the official grade is, other than its the general
> >>>>purpose domestic stuff, like you'd use for oiling door hinges and
> >>>>bicycle chains. And latterly, of course, computer
> >>>
> >>> '3-in-1' does make an electric motor oil.
> >>
> >>My favorite "3-in-1" product:
> >>
> >>http://www.3inone.com/products/white-lithium-grease/
> >
> > I use lithium grease, but another brand that I can pick up from a car
> > parts dealer just down the street. I also use PB Blaster and Breakfree.
>
> I like the "3-in-1" spray on lithium grease because I can reach hard to
> get to places with the spray tube, yet it dries with the consistency of
> regular lithium grease.

The brand I have in the shop does the same thing. I can't get into
that part of my garage at the moment to tell you what it is, and I've
used several brands over the years. I used to use GC 'Lubriplate' in a
metal tube.

--
Anyone wanting to run for any political office in the US should have to
have a DD214, and a honorable discharge.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: LCD Desktop Monitor Fading to White, then Black
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/2c04885c7b46754a?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 15 ==
Date: Sun, May 2 2010 3:35 am
From: bill@love.ranch

On Sun, 2 May 2010 08:21:04 +0100, "N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote:

>saber850 <saber850@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>news:2468c376-1884-4039-af3a-55c41cedb3c6@k29g2000yqh.googlegroups.com...
>> Hi,
>>
>> My LCD desktop monitor has been exhibiting a problem for over 1 year.
>> It is out of warranty and I would like to fix it.
>>
>> The problem is that the monitor displays the picture, and then
>> gradually fades to white, and then gradually fades to black.
>>
>> The monitor does not exhibit the problem all the time. It comes and
>> goes. I do not have a procedure which triggers the problem; it seems
>> to be random. Sometimes it will behave this way for only a few
>> minutes, while other times it will behave like this for weeks.
>>
>> I do not do anything to trigger the problem, other than have the
>> monitor powered on.
>>
>> I have two of these monitors. I bought both monitors at the same time.
>> Both monitors are connected to the same video card (nVidia) via a DVI
>> connection. Only one of the monitors exhibits the problem--the other
>> continues to function properly. When the monitor exhibits the
>> problem, I can swap the DVI cables and the other monitor continues to
>> function properly. So I do not believe the problem is my video card or
>> computer.
>>
>> I do not know of a method to get the monitor out of this problem
>> state. I've tried cycling the power to the monitor, and I've tried
>> rebooting the computer. Neither method fixes the problem. The only
>> thing I can do is wait for it to fix itself. But eventually, it
>> malfunctions again.
>>
>> A video of the problem occurring is available here:
>> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W7YpFZVRjcE
>>
>>
>> Best regards,
>> Nick
>
>
>Can you observe discrete jumps in the fade, ie stepped.
>Is it a backlight problem? if so perhaps find the brightness control line to
>the inverter and break there and add your own subcircuit perhaps. First
>monitor that line as maybe a fault inside the inverter chip

I don't think it is a backlight issue
My bet is a circuit problem with something common to all colors.

The brightness increases to max, then it goes negative to black. Then
it pops back to normal.

A lot of monitors have everything wrapped up in one chip.
Some ICs may drive the monitor directly.

Look for unstable supply voltage.
If the voltage is going on/off abruptly but has a big cap on the line
that would explain it.

== 2 of 15 ==
Date: Sun, May 2 2010 3:39 am
From: bill@love.ranch

On Sun, 2 May 2010 00:25:15 -0700 (PDT), saber850 <saber850@yahoo.com>
wrote:

>On May 2, 3:21 am, "N_Cook" <dive...@tcp.co.uk> wrote:
>> saber850 <saber...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>>
>> news:2468c376-1884-4039-af3a-55c41cedb3c6@k29g2000yqh.googlegroups.com...
>>
>>
>>
>> > Hi,
>>
>> > My LCD desktop monitor has been exhibiting a problem for over 1 year.
>> > It is out of warranty and I would like to fix it.
>>
>> > The problem is that the monitor displays the picture, and then
>> > gradually fades to white, and then gradually fades to black.
>>
>> > The monitor does not exhibit the problem all the time. It comes and
>> > goes. I do not have a procedure which triggers the problem; it seems
>> > to be random. Sometimes it will behave this way for only a few
>> > minutes, while other times it will behave like this for weeks.
>>
>> > I do not do anything to trigger the problem, other than have the
>> > monitor powered on.
>>
>> > I have two of these monitors. I bought both monitors at the same time.
>> > Both monitors are connected to the same video card (nVidia) via a DVI
>> > connection. Only one of the monitors exhibits the problem--the other
>> > continues to function properly. When the monitor exhibits the
>> > problem, I can swap the DVI cables and the other monitor continues to
>> > function properly. So I do not believe the problem is my video card or
>> > computer.
>>
>> > I do not know of a method to get the monitor out of this problem
>> > state. I've tried cycling the power to the monitor, and I've tried
>> > rebooting the computer. Neither method fixes the problem. The only
>> > thing I can do is wait for it to fix itself. But eventually, it
>> > malfunctions again.
>>
>> > A video of the problem occurring is available here:
>> >http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W7YpFZVRjcE
>>
>> > Best regards,
>> > Nick
>>
>> Can you observe discrete jumps in the fade, ie stepped.
>> Is it a backlight problem? if so perhaps find the brightness control line to
>> the inverter and break there and add your own subcircuit perhaps. First
>> monitor that line as maybe a fault inside the inverter chip
>>
>> --
>> Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
>> electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list onhttp://diverse.4mg.com/index.htm
>
>Thanks for the quick response. I do not observe discrete jumps in the
>fading--it seems very smooth to me.
>
>I do not know if it is a backlight problem; how can I tell?

A backlight gives general brightness to an image.
if it is out, the video will still be there and u can see the image if
u shine a light on the screen - effectively replacing the backlight.

your issue looks like the video is changing - not a backlight issue.

check the PS voltages first.

== 3 of 15 ==
Date: Sun, May 2 2010 5:21 am
From: saber850

On May 2, 6:39 am, b...@love.ranch wrote:
> On Sun, 2 May 2010 00:25:15 -0700 (PDT), saber850 <saber...@yahoo.com>
> wrote:
>
>
>
> >On May 2, 3:21 am, "N_Cook" <dive...@tcp.co.uk> wrote:
> >> saber850 <saber...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>
> >>news:2468c376-1884-4039-af3a-55c41cedb3c6@k29g2000yqh.googlegroups.com...
>
> >> > Hi,
>
> >> > My LCD desktop monitor has been exhibiting a problem for over 1 year.
> >> > It is out of warranty and I would like to fix it.
>
> >> > The problem is that the monitor displays the picture, and then
> >> > gradually fades to white, and then gradually fades to black.
>
> >> > The monitor does not exhibit the problem all the time. It comes and
> >> > goes. I do not have a procedure which triggers the problem; it seems
> >> > to be random. Sometimes it will behave this way for only a few
> >> > minutes, while other times it will behave like this for weeks.
>
> >> > I do not do anything to trigger the problem, other than have the
> >> > monitor powered on.
>
> >> > I have two of these monitors. I bought both monitors at the same time.
> >> > Both monitors are connected to the same video card (nVidia) via a DVI
> >> > connection. Only one of the monitors exhibits the problem--the other
> >> > continues to function properly. When the monitor exhibits the
> >> > problem, I can swap the DVI cables and the other monitor continues to
> >> > function properly. So I do not believe the problem is my video card or
> >> > computer.
>
> >> > I do not know of a method to get the monitor out of this problem
> >> > state. I've tried cycling the power to the monitor, and I've tried
> >> > rebooting the computer. Neither method fixes the problem. The only
> >> > thing I can do is wait for it to fix itself. But eventually, it
> >> > malfunctions again.
>
> >> > A video of the problem occurring is available here:
> >> >http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W7YpFZVRjcE
>
> >> > Best regards,
> >> > Nick
>
> >> Can you observe discrete jumps in the fade, ie stepped.
> >> Is it a backlight problem? if so perhaps find the brightness control line to
> >> the inverter and break there and add your own subcircuit perhaps. First
> >> monitor that line as maybe a fault inside the inverter chip
>
> >> --
> >> Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
> >> electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list onhttp://diverse.4mg.com/index.htm
>
> >Thanks for the quick response. I do not observe discrete jumps in the
> >fading--it seems very smooth to me.
>
> >I do not know if it is a backlight problem; how can I tell?
>
> A backlight gives general brightness to an image.
> if it is out, the video will still be there and u can see the image if
> u shine a light on the screen - effectively replacing the backlight.
>
> your issue looks like the video is changing - not a backlight issue.
>
> check the PS voltages first.

The problem isn't occurring at the moment. When it returns, I will
try shining a light at the screen to determine if the problem is the
backlight.

Regarding the supply voltage: both monitors (as well as the computer
itself) get their power from an APC UPS. When the problem returns, I
will try using the outlet directly on the wall.

== 4 of 15 ==
Date: Sun, May 2 2010 5:24 am
From: saber850

On May 2, 3:05 am, saber850 <saber...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> Hi,
>
> My LCD desktop monitor has been exhibiting a problem for over 1 year.
> It is out of warranty and I would like to fix it.
>
> The problem is that the monitor displays the picture, and then
> gradually fades to white, and then gradually fades to black.
>
> The monitor does not exhibit the problem all the time. It comes and
> goes. I do not have a procedure which triggers the problem; it seems
> to be random. Sometimes it will behave this way for only a few
> minutes, while other times it will behave like this for weeks.
>
> I do not do anything to trigger the problem, other than have the
> monitor powered on.
>
> I have two of these monitors. I bought both monitors at the same time.
> Both monitors are connected to the same video card (nVidia) via a DVI
> connection. Only one of the monitors exhibits the problem--the other
> continues to function properly. When the monitor exhibits the
> problem, I can swap the DVI cables and the other monitor continues to
> function properly. So I do not believe the problem is my video card or
> computer.
>
> I do not know of a method to get the monitor out of this problem
> state. I've tried cycling the power to the monitor, and I've tried
> rebooting the computer. Neither method fixes the problem. The only
> thing I can do is wait for it to fix itself. But eventually, it
> malfunctions again.
>
> A video of the problem occurring is available here:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W7YpFZVRjcE
>
> Best regards,
> Nick

One thing I forgot to mention about the video is that it is not
demonstrating the typical "end" of this problem.

Typically, the monitor fades to all white, then to all black (as
captured in the video), and that's it; it will stay black. It
typically does not cycle the way it does in the video, at least not
indefinitely. It may cycle several times, but within 1 and ~5 cycles
(usually just 1 cycle), it will stay in the "black" state.

== 5 of 15 ==
Date: Sun, May 2 2010 6:40 am
From: Meat Plow

On Sun, 2 May 2010 08:21:04 +0100, "N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk>wrote:

What brand/model monitor?
What brand/model card with NVidia chip?

Does the monitor have a DSUB I/O?
Does the video card have a DSUB I/O

The symptoms don't describe an inverter problem to me
but rather an LCD matrix drive, possibley PSU derived.

== 6 of 15 ==
Date: Sun, May 2 2010 7:22 am
From: saber850

On May 2, 9:40 am, Meat Plow <mhyw...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> On Sun, 2 May 2010 08:21:04 +0100, "N_Cook" <dive...@tcp.co.uk>wrote:
>
>
>
> >saber850 <saber...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> >news:2468c376-1884-4039-af3a-55c41cedb3c6@k29g2000yqh.googlegroups.com...
> >> Hi,
>
> >> My LCD desktop monitor has been exhibiting a problem for over 1 year.
> >> It is out of warranty and I would like to fix it.
>
> >> The problem is that the monitor displays the picture, and then
> >> gradually fades to white, and then gradually fades to black.
>
> >> The monitor does not exhibit the problem all the time. It comes and
> >> goes. I do not have a procedure which triggers the problem; it seems
> >> to be random. Sometimes it will behave this way for only a few
> >> minutes, while other times it will behave like this for weeks.
>
> >> I do not do anything to trigger the problem, other than have the
> >> monitor powered on.
>
> >> I have two of these monitors. I bought both monitors at the same time.
> >> Both monitors are connected to the same video card (nVidia) via a DVI
> >> connection. Only one of the monitors exhibits the problem--the other
> >> continues to function properly. When the monitor exhibits the
> >> problem, I can swap the DVI cables and the other monitor continues to
> >> function properly. So I do not believe the problem is my video card or
> >> computer.
>
> >> I do not know of a method to get the monitor out of this problem
> >> state. I've tried cycling the power to the monitor, and I've tried
> >> rebooting the computer. Neither method fixes the problem. The only
> >> thing I can do is wait for it to fix itself. But eventually, it
> >> malfunctions again.
>
> >> A video of the problem occurring is available here:
> >>http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W7YpFZVRjcE
>
> >> Best regards,
> >> Nick
>
> >Can you observe discrete jumps in the fade, ie stepped.
> >Is it a backlight problem? if so perhaps find the brightness control line to
> >the inverter and break there and add your own subcircuit perhaps. First
> >monitor that line as maybe a fault inside the inverter chip
>
> What brand/model monitor?
> What brand/model card with NVidia chip?
>
> Does the monitor have a DSUB I/O?
> Does the video card have a DSUB I/O
>
> The symptoms don't describe an inverter problem to me
> but rather an LCD matrix drive, possibley PSU derived.

Both monitors are a Samsung SyncMaster 204B.
The video card is a ASUS EN7600GT.

The monitors have 1 DSUB I/O port and 1 VGA I/O port. I've only ever
used the DSUB I/O.
The video card has two DSUB I/O ports. Each one is connected to a
monitor.

As I mentioned in the OP, when the monitor is malfunctioning, I have
swapped the DVI cables between the monitors. When doing so, the
malfunctioning monitor continues to malfunction while the other
monitor (the one which has never malfunctioned) continues to function
properly. So from this, I believe the computer & video card are
functioning properly. Am I making a valid assessment here?

Is the PSU typically isolated from other circuitry in the monitor such
that it can be replaced?

== 7 of 15 ==
Date: Sun, May 2 2010 8:46 am
From: "David"

>> >saber850 <saber...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>> >news:2468c376-1884-4039-af3a-55c41cedb3c6@k29g2000yqh.googlegroups.com...
>> >> Hi,
>>
>> >> My LCD desktop monitor has been exhibiting a problem
>> >> for over 1 year.
>> >> It is out of warranty and I would like to fix it.
>>
>> >> The problem is that the monitor displays the picture,
>> >> and then
>> >> gradually fades to white, and then gradually fades to
>> >> black.
>>
>> >> The monitor does not exhibit the problem all the time.
>> >> It comes and
>> >> goes. I do not have a procedure which triggers the
>> >> problem; it seems
>> >> to be random. Sometimes it will behave this way for
>> >> only a few
>> >> minutes, while other times it will behave like this
>> >> for weeks.
>>
>> >> I do not do anything to trigger the problem, other
>> >> than have the
>> >> monitor powered on.
>>
>> >> I have two of these monitors. I bought both monitors
>> >> at the same time.
>> >> Both monitors are connected to the same video card
>> >> (nVidia) via a DVI
>> >> connection. Only one of the monitors exhibits the
>> >> problem--the other
>> >> continues to function properly. When the monitor
>> >> exhibits the
>> >> problem, I can swap the DVI cables and the other
>> >> monitor continues to
>> >> function properly. So I do not believe the problem is
>> >> my video card or
>> >> computer.
>>
>> >> I do not know of a method to get the monitor out of
>> >> this problem
>> >> state. I've tried cycling the power to the monitor,
>> >> and I've tried
>> >> rebooting the computer. Neither method fixes the
>> >> problem. The only
>> >> thing I can do is wait for it to fix itself. But
>> >> eventually, it
>> >> malfunctions again.
>>
>> >> A video of the problem occurring is available here:
>> >>http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W7YpFZVRjcE
>>
>> >> Best regards,
>> >> Nick

Does this monitor have buttons on the front to control
brightness? Could one of those be stuck or shorted?

David

== 8 of 15 ==
Date: Sun, May 2 2010 9:32 am
From: Sjouke Burry

saber850 wrote:
> On May 2, 3:21 am, "N_Cook" <dive...@tcp.co.uk> wrote:
>> saber850 <saber...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>>
>> news:2468c376-1884-4039-af3a-55c41cedb3c6@k29g2000yqh.googlegroups.com...
>>
>>
>>
>>> Hi,
>>> My LCD desktop monitor has been exhibiting a problem for over 1 year.
>>> It is out of warranty and I would like to fix it.
>>> The problem is that the monitor displays the picture, and then
>>> gradually fades to white, and then gradually fades to black.
>>> The monitor does not exhibit the problem all the time. It comes and
>>> goes. I do not have a procedure which triggers the problem; it seems
>>> to be random. Sometimes it will behave this way for only a few
>>> minutes, while other times it will behave like this for weeks.
>>> I do not do anything to trigger the problem, other than have the
>>> monitor powered on.
>>> I have two of these monitors. I bought both monitors at the same time.
>>> Both monitors are connected to the same video card (nVidia) via a DVI
>>> connection. Only one of the monitors exhibits the problem--the other
>>> continues to function properly. When the monitor exhibits the
>>> problem, I can swap the DVI cables and the other monitor continues to
>>> function properly. So I do not believe the problem is my video card or
>>> computer.
>>> I do not know of a method to get the monitor out of this problem
>>> state. I've tried cycling the power to the monitor, and I've tried
>>> rebooting the computer. Neither method fixes the problem. The only
>>> thing I can do is wait for it to fix itself. But eventually, it
>>> malfunctions again.
>>> A video of the problem occurring is available here:
>>> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W7YpFZVRjcE
>>> Best regards,
>>> Nick
>> Can you observe discrete jumps in the fade, ie stepped.
>> Is it a backlight problem? if so perhaps find the brightness control line to
>> the inverter and break there and add your own subcircuit perhaps. First
>> monitor that line as maybe a fault inside the inverter chip
>>
>> --
>> Diverse Devices, Southampton, England
>> electronic hints and repair briefs , schematics/manuals list onhttp://diverse.4mg.com/index.htm
>
> Thanks for the quick response. I do not observe discrete jumps in the
> fading--it seems very smooth to me.
>
> I do not know if it is a backlight problem; how can I tell?
If it is the backlight, you can still see a picture in strong
ambient light, try different viewing angles and light angles.
If you can still sortof see a picture, it is the backlight.
The slow fade suggests the invertor,or its powersupply circuit.

== 9 of 15 ==
Date: Sun, May 2 2010 1:43 pm
From: "hr(bob) hofmann@att.net"

On May 2, 9:22 am, saber850 <saber...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> On May 2, 9:40 am, Meat Plow <mhyw...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > On Sun, 2 May 2010 08:21:04 +0100, "N_Cook" <dive...@tcp.co.uk>wrote:
>
> > >saber850 <saber...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> > >news:2468c376-1884-4039-af3a-55c41cedb3c6@k29g2000yqh.googlegroups.com...
> > >> Hi,
>
> > >> My LCD desktop monitor has been exhibiting a problem for over 1 year.
> > >> It is out of warranty and I would like to fix it.
>
> > >> The problem is that the monitor displays the picture, and then
> > >> gradually fades to white, and then gradually fades to black.
>
> > >> The monitor does not exhibit the problem all the time. It comes and
> > >> goes. I do not have a procedure which triggers the problem; it seems
> > >> to be random. Sometimes it will behave this way for only a few
> > >> minutes, while other times it will behave like this for weeks.
>
> > >> I do not do anything to trigger the problem, other than have the
> > >> monitor powered on.
>
> > >> I have two of these monitors. I bought both monitors at the same time.
> > >> Both monitors are connected to the same video card (nVidia) via a DVI
> > >> connection. Only one of the monitors exhibits the problem--the other
> > >> continues to function properly. When the monitor exhibits the
> > >> problem, I can swap the DVI cables and the other monitor continues to
> > >> function properly. So I do not believe the problem is my video card or
> > >> computer.
>
> > >> I do not know of a method to get the monitor out of this problem
> > >> state. I've tried cycling the power to the monitor, and I've tried
> > >> rebooting the computer. Neither method fixes the problem. The only
> > >> thing I can do is wait for it to fix itself. But eventually, it
> > >> malfunctions again.
>
> > >> A video of the problem occurring is available here:
> > >>http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W7YpFZVRjcE
>
> > >> Best regards,
> > >> Nick
>
> > >Can you observe discrete jumps in the fade, ie stepped.
> > >Is it a backlight problem? if so perhaps find the brightness control line to
> > >the inverter and break there and add your own subcircuit perhaps. First
> > >monitor that line as maybe a fault inside the inverter chip
>
> > What brand/model monitor?
> > What brand/model card with NVidia chip?
>
> > Does the monitor have a DSUB I/O?
> > Does the video card have a DSUB I/O
>
> > The symptoms don't describe an inverter problem to me
> > but rather an LCD matrix drive, possibley PSU derived.
>
> Both monitors are a Samsung SyncMaster 204B.
> The video card is a ASUS EN7600GT.
>
> The monitors have 1 DSUB I/O port and 1 VGA I/O port. I've only ever
> used the DSUB I/O.
> The video card has two DSUB I/O ports. Each one is connected to a
> monitor.
>
> As I mentioned in the OP, when the monitor is malfunctioning, I have
> swapped the DVI cables between the monitors. When doing so, the
> malfunctioning monitor continues to malfunction while the other
> monitor (the one which has never malfunctioned) continues to function
> properly. So from this, I believe the computer & video card are
> functioning properly. Am I making a valid assessment here?
>
> Is the PSU typically isolated from other circuitry in the monitor such
> that it can be replaced?- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

I don't have any suggestions, but it is definitely Not the backlight.
With a fading backlight the picture would just get darker and darker,
there would be no video reversal such as shown in the video.

== 10 of 15 ==
Date: Sun, May 2 2010 1:50 pm
From: PlainBill47@yahoo.com

On Sun, 2 May 2010 07:22:40 -0700 (PDT), saber850 <saber850@yahoo.com>
wrote:

>On May 2, 9:40 am, Meat Plow <mhyw...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>> On Sun, 2 May 2010 08:21:04 +0100, "N_Cook" <dive...@tcp.co.uk>wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>> >saber850 <saber...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>> >news:2468c376-1884-4039-af3a-55c41cedb3c6@k29g2000yqh.googlegroups.com...
>> >> Hi,
>>
>> >> My LCD desktop monitor has been exhibiting a problem for over 1 year.
>> >> It is out of warranty and I would like to fix it.
>>
>> >> The problem is that the monitor displays the picture, and then
>> >> gradually fades to white, and then gradually fades to black.
>>
>> >> The monitor does not exhibit the problem all the time. It comes and
>> >> goes. I do not have a procedure which triggers the problem; it seems
>> >> to be random. Sometimes it will behave this way for only a few
>> >> minutes, while other times it will behave like this for weeks.
>>
>> >> I do not do anything to trigger the problem, other than have the
>> >> monitor powered on.
>>
>> >> I have two of these monitors. I bought both monitors at the same time.
>> >> Both monitors are connected to the same video card (nVidia) via a DVI
>> >> connection. Only one of the monitors exhibits the problem--the other
>> >> continues to function properly. When the monitor exhibits the
>> >> problem, I can swap the DVI cables and the other monitor continues to
>> >> function properly. So I do not believe the problem is my video card or
>> >> computer.
>>
>> >> I do not know of a method to get the monitor out of this problem
>> >> state. I've tried cycling the power to the monitor, and I've tried
>> >> rebooting the computer. Neither method fixes the problem. The only
>> >> thing I can do is wait for it to fix itself. But eventually, it
>> >> malfunctions again.
>>
>> >> A video of the problem occurring is available here:
>> >>http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W7YpFZVRjcE
>>
>> >> Best regards,
>> >> Nick
>>
>> >Can you observe discrete jumps in the fade, ie stepped.
>> >Is it a backlight problem? if so perhaps find the brightness control line to
>> >the inverter and break there and add your own subcircuit perhaps. First
>> >monitor that line as maybe a fault inside the inverter chip
>>
>> What brand/model monitor?
>> What brand/model card with NVidia chip?
>>
>> Does the monitor have a DSUB I/O?
>> Does the video card have a DSUB I/O
>>
>> The symptoms don't describe an inverter problem to me
>> but rather an LCD matrix drive, possibley PSU derived.
>
>Both monitors are a Samsung SyncMaster 204B.
>The video card is a ASUS EN7600GT.
>
>The monitors have 1 DSUB I/O port and 1 VGA I/O port. I've only ever
>used the DSUB I/O.
>The video card has two DSUB I/O ports. Each one is connected to a
>monitor.
>
>As I mentioned in the OP, when the monitor is malfunctioning, I have
>swapped the DVI cables between the monitors. When doing so, the
>malfunctioning monitor continues to malfunction while the other
>monitor (the one which has never malfunctioned) continues to function
>properly. So from this, I believe the computer & video card are
>functioning properly. Am I making a valid assessment here?
>
>Is the PSU typically isolated from other circuitry in the monitor such
>that it can be replaced?
The problem indicates an problem with the video controller IN THE
MONITOR. The Samsung 204s (and other Samsungs) have a bad reputation
for this reason. A slow fade to white can be a problem with the power
to the LCD panel itself, a fast fade to black can be caused by the
inverter. A slow fade to black MUST originate from the video
controler.

Open up the monitor, using all applicable precautions. On the video
controller should be several three terminal devices, but labeled with
a U number (as a hypothetical example, U404). Those are voltage
regulators. It is remotely possible that one of those may be putting
out an incorrect voltage. The last two digits in the part number will
be the output voltage. Again, a hyprtetical part number - L117N33B is
a 3.3 volt regulator.

PlainBill

== 11 of 15 ==
Date: Sun, May 2 2010 2:10 pm
From: Jeff Liebermann

On Sun, 2 May 2010 07:22:40 -0700 (PDT), saber850 <saber850@yahoo.com>
wrote:

>Both monitors are a Samsung SyncMaster 204B.

Thank you for supplying the maker and model number.

This might be of interest:
<http://pavel.kirkovsky.com/2009/03/samsung-syncmaster-204b-repair/>
<http://www.djhome.net/tips/samsungsyncmaster204T.htm>
I've seen both problems on the bench with similar Samsung models.

My usual method is to replace *ALL* the large value electrolytic
capacitors. The labour is less to do it at one time, than to spend
any time finding which one or two is the culprit. Make sure you buy
105C or 125C replacement caps as the 85c variety don't last. Larger
values and voltage ratings are fine, but watch out for package sizes
and lead spacing.

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

== 12 of 15 ==
Date: Sun, May 2 2010 2:14 pm
From: Jamie

hr(bob) hofmann@att.net wrote:

> On May 2, 9:22 am, saber850 <saber...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>>On May 2, 9:40 am, Meat Plow <mhyw...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>>On Sun, 2 May 2010 08:21:04 +0100, "N_Cook" <dive...@tcp.co.uk>wrote:
>>
>>>>saber850 <saber...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>>>>news:2468c376-1884-4039-af3a-55c41cedb3c6@k29g2000yqh.googlegroups.com...
>>>>
>>>>>Hi,
>>
>>>>>My LCD desktop monitor has been exhibiting a problem for over 1 year.
>>>>>It is out of warranty and I would like to fix it.
>>
>>>>>The problem is that the monitor displays the picture, and then
>>>>>gradually fades to white, and then gradually fades to black.
>>
>>>>>The monitor does not exhibit the problem all the time. It comes and
>>>>>goes. I do not have a procedure which triggers the problem; it seems
>>>>>to be random. Sometimes it will behave this way for only a few
>>>>>minutes, while other times it will behave like this for weeks.
>>
>>>>>I do not do anything to trigger the problem, other than have the
>>>>>monitor powered on.
>>
>>>>>I have two of these monitors. I bought both monitors at the same time.
>>>>>Both monitors are connected to the same video card (nVidia) via a DVI
>>>>>connection. Only one of the monitors exhibits the problem--the other
>>>>>continues to function properly. When the monitor exhibits the
>>>>>problem, I can swap the DVI cables and the other monitor continues to
>>>>>function properly. So I do not believe the problem is my video card or
>>>>>computer.
>>
>>>>>I do not know of a method to get the monitor out of this problem
>>>>>state. I've tried cycling the power to the monitor, and I've tried
>>>>>rebooting the computer. Neither method fixes the problem. The only
>>>>>thing I can do is wait for it to fix itself. But eventually, it
>>>>>malfunctions again.
>>
>>>>>A video of the problem occurring is available here:
>>>>>http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W7YpFZVRjcE
>>
>>>>>Best regards,
>>>>>Nick
>>
>>>>Can you observe discrete jumps in the fade, ie stepped.
>>>>Is it a backlight problem? if so perhaps find the brightness control line to
>>>>the inverter and break there and add your own subcircuit perhaps. First
>>>>monitor that line as maybe a fault inside the inverter chip
>>
>>>What brand/model monitor?
>>>What brand/model card with NVidia chip?
>>
>>>Does the monitor have a DSUB I/O?
>>>Does the video card have a DSUB I/O
>>
>>>The symptoms don't describe an inverter problem to me
>>>but rather an LCD matrix drive, possibley PSU derived.
>>
>>Both monitors are a Samsung SyncMaster 204B.
>>The video card is a ASUS EN7600GT.
>>
>>The monitors have 1 DSUB I/O port and 1 VGA I/O port. I've only ever
>>used the DSUB I/O.
>>The video card has two DSUB I/O ports. Each one is connected to a
>>monitor.
>>
>>As I mentioned in the OP, when the monitor is malfunctioning, I have
>>swapped the DVI cables between the monitors. When doing so, the
>>malfunctioning monitor continues to malfunction while the other
>>monitor (the one which has never malfunctioned) continues to function
>>properly. So from this, I believe the computer & video card are
>>functioning properly. Am I making a valid assessment here?
>>
>>Is the PSU typically isolated from other circuitry in the monitor such
>>that it can be replaced?- Hide quoted text -
>>
>>- Show quoted text -
>
>
> I don't have any suggestions, but it is definitely Not the backlight.
> With a fading backlight the picture would just get darker and darker,
> there would be no video reversal such as shown in the video.
Are you connected to a Laptop ? is power saving kicking in an option
available in your LCD if the battery is getting low?
Maybe we went over that already, I'm too tired to look back.

== 13 of 15 ==
Date: Sun, May 2 2010 2:14 pm
From: "William Sommerwerck"

Yes, of course -- that's Troubleshooting 101.

What's going on is that the video information is being lost, and the pixel
"twist" is being forced all the way one way, then all the way the other way.
As to the cause...

== 14 of 15 ==
Date: Sun, May 2 2010 3:07 pm
From: Grant

On Sun, 2 May 2010 14:14:33 -0700, "William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote:

>As I mentioned in the OP, when the monitor is malfunctioning, I have
>swapped the DVI cables between the monitors. When doing so, the
>malfunctioning monitor continues to malfunction while the other
>monitor (the one which has never malfunctioned) continues to function
>properly. So from this, I believe the computer & video card are
>functioning properly. Am I making a valid assessment here?
>
>Yes, of course -- that's Troubleshooting 101.
>
>What's going on is that the video information is being lost, and the pixel
>"twist" is being forced all the way one way, then all the way the other way.
>As to the cause...
>
I like the 'crazy LCD controller' idea -- bad connection somewhere making
it cycle through the brightness range -- doesn't seem like faulty components
could make an LCD smoothly cycle brightness how you describe?

So I think the culprit is the controller PCB in the LCD, unless bad power
is provoking the thing to craziness?

Grant.
--
http://bugs.id.au/

== 15 of 15 ==
Date: Sun, May 2 2010 3:13 pm
From: Grant

On Sun, 02 May 2010 14:10:47 -0700, Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote:

>On Sun, 2 May 2010 07:22:40 -0700 (PDT), saber850 <saber850@yahoo.com>
>wrote:
>
>>Both monitors are a Samsung SyncMaster 204B.
>
>Thank you for supplying the maker and model number.
>
>This might be of interest:
><http://pavel.kirkovsky.com/2009/03/samsung-syncmaster-204b-repair/>
><http://www.djhome.net/tips/samsungsyncmaster204T.htm>
>I've seen both problems on the bench with similar Samsung models.
>
>My usual method is to replace *ALL* the large value electrolytic
>capacitors. The labour is less to do it at one time, than to spend
>any time finding which one or two is the culprit. Make sure you buy
>105C or 125C replacement caps as the 85c variety don't last. Larger
>values and voltage ratings are fine, but watch out for package sizes
>and lead spacing.

Agree with you, there's usually room to squeeze in higher voltage caps,
and, with switching regs you could drop capacitance a little bit[1] and
not harm the circuit performance -- ripple current rating of the caps
is more important than the capacitance value of replacement cap.

[1] Got some 390/63 and 820/25 105'C low ESR caps I'd use instead of
470/35 and 1000/16 in a repair.

Grant.
--
http://bugs.id.au/

==============================================================================
TOPIC: wholesael brand t-shirts (armani, chanel.D&G, gucci , lv, versace )-----
www.sourcesoso.com
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/1af8f4a9e7a81a90?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sun, May 2 2010 6:35 am
From: wholesale shoes

wholesale jeans , t-shirts , hoodies, jackets ,coats in www.sourcesoso.com
ARMANI jeansBAPE jeansBBC jeansCA jeansCK jeansGucci jeansCROWN HOLDER
jeansDIESEL jeansED jeansEVISU jeansG-STRA jeansGUCCI jeansKAPORAL5
jeanslaguna beach jeansLEE jeansROBINS jeansROCK&REPUBLIC jeansTrue
Religion jeansVARSACE jeansLEVIS jeansLV jeansRMC jeans
D&G jeans DIESEL jeansGUCCI jeans laguna beach jeansseven for all
mankindTrue Religion jeans

BBC shorts COOGI shortsED Hardy shorts EVISU shorts TR shorts CROWN
HOLDER
ARMANI t-shirtsCOOGI t-shirtsCrown holder t-shirtsGUCCI t-shirtsLV t-
shirtsPRADA t-shirtsVERSACE t-shirtsAKOO t-shirts
ARMANI tsBABERRY tsCHANEL tsD&G tsDior tsGUCCI tsLV tsVERSACE ts

website: http://www.sourcesoso.com

==============================================================================
TOPIC: PSU eval. # n3252w View Sonic, Model vs11335-1m
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/309ceaf8a98ba4e8?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sun, May 2 2010 6:56 am
From: "ctops.legal"

On May 1, 4:59 pm, Grant <o...@grrr.id.au> wrote:
> On Sat, 1 May 2010 10:25:34 -0700 (PDT), "ctops.legal" <ctops.le...@gmail.com> wrote:
> >This PSU looks new, being there is no service manual to d/l that I can
> >access (other than the scam sites), the power light comes on after
> >hard reset then blinks green, bad PSU right ?, well looking at the
> >main board (2006) the general continuity testing turns out ok, the
> >specs are as follows:
> >PSU outputs: 12 pin output to main board, and 10 pin output to video.
> >PSU has no part# that corresponds to any posts here or in Google
> >groups, I can clearly see the scratch marks where the PSU has been
> >replaced and/or looked at by the face plate, I don't want to purchase
> >an replacement PSU to find out it's some other problem that's not
> >feasible within the client's budget to find I can't return the PSU for
> >a refund.
> >Any suggestions would be appreciated, also I suspect a problem with
> >the inverter based on the "power on response" which is very similar to
> >a PSU failure.
> >Description, press power LCD try to start then goes off and the green
> >power light blinks green.
>
> I recently rescued a faulty LCD with similar problem, would turn off
> after very short time. Symptoms like bad caps in power supply, except
> this monitor ran off an external 12V power brick and nothing looked
> busted around the power board.
>
> After much searching I found info on a Russian site which suggested
> changing the capacitor across backlight inverter xformer primary as
> it had lost capacitance. So I replaced both caps (dual inverter
> board for four CCFL tubes) and the thing worked!
>
> Replaced 2 x dark red 220nF 250V with 220nF 630VDC or 275VAC polycarbonate
> mains rated cap. Had to mount the caps off-board as they were much larger
> than the originals, but there was plenty of horizontal space around the
> inverter board.
>
> What started out looking like a power supply problem was in fact over
> on the backlight inverter board.
>
> Worth a try?
>
> Grant.
> --http://bugs.id.au/- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

Well the unit won't come on (just a flash of blue), then blinking
green light. I know the client will pay for a PSU I just need to id
this one, the unit was sold in 2007 from what I am reading about this
PSU from this particular model there must have been a bad batch of
PSU's, and the replacement needs a modified cable, and some people are
using the unit with an external PSU. I this trying a new PSU 1st will
eliminate the need to take the unit apart any further, thanks for the
input.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Part # of Magnetron for Microwave Oven Emerson MW9107WC
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/f77addde8cb547fd?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Sun, May 2 2010 2:40 pm
From: Cydrome Leader

ian field <gangprobing.alien@ntlworld.com> wrote:
>
> "Cydrome Leader" <presence@MUNGEpanix.com> wrote in message
> news:hrfufe$fdk$1@reader1.panix.com...
>> ian field <gangprobing.alien@ntlworld.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> "Cydrome Leader" <presence@MUNGEpanix.com> wrote in message
>>> news:hrfgmg$ef5$1@reader1.panix.com...
>>>> ian field <gangprobing.alien@ntlworld.com> wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> "Cydrome Leader" <presence@MUNGEpanix.com> wrote in message
>>>>> news:hrf5im$ko7$1@reader1.panix.com...
>>>>>> Yimin Rong <yiminrong@yahoo.ca> wrote:
>>>>>>> Greetings,
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Can someone tell me the part # of the magnetron for microwave oven
>>>>>>> Emerson MW9107WC?
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I know I could probably just take it apart and see for myself, but
>>>>>>> would like to determine cost effectiveness of getting a replacement
>>>>>>> part and repairing myself, bringing to service technician, or just
>>>>>>> getting a new one.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> How do you know the magnetron is bad, if you haven't even opened the
>>>>>> unit
>>>>>> yet?
>>>>>
>>>>> How do you know that you're dead?
>>>>>
>>>>> You just touched the 4kV terminal.
>>>>
>>>> just curious, have there been any microwave oven deaths recently?
>>>>
>>>> I used to hear about them every year or so from trade newsletters, but
>>>> considering a microwave oven is throw away item these days, I'm guess
>>>> less
>>>> people bother to even have them fixed in the first place.
>>>
>>> Maybe the message is getting through to people just how lethal the HT in
>>> a
>>> microwave is, or as you say less people bother repairing them.
>>>
>>> My microwave was found put outside someones door in the flats, when I
>>> tested
>>> it I found the mains plug wired wrong (live case) it worked fine once the
>>> plug had been re-wired and has been since quite a long time ago.
>>
>> I've noticed they use torx-ish screws on them these days, probably to
>> discourage people from opening them, but there's nothing other than the
>> standard warnings on them for any electronics you plug in. considering
>> they cost $99 these days, I don't see anybody other than people who used
>> to actually fix stuff trying to salvage one.
>
> Mine has started to rust at the bottom of the oven compartment so I wave the
> leakage meter at it from time to time, meanwhile I rescue any that turn up
> in the bin room so there's a fighting chance to cobble something together
> when the one I'm using eventually goes phut.

Has anybody worked on those "inverter" microwaves that lack the giant transformer?

I've been looking for one in the trash to peek inside, but haven't come across any
yet.

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Sun, May 2 2010 2:49 pm
From: "ian field"

"Cydrome Leader" <presence@MUNGEpanix.com> wrote in message
news:hrkrgj$7fm$2@reader1.panix.com...
> ian field <gangprobing.alien@ntlworld.com> wrote:
>>
>> "Cydrome Leader" <presence@MUNGEpanix.com> wrote in message
>> news:hrfufe$fdk$1@reader1.panix.com...
>>> ian field <gangprobing.alien@ntlworld.com> wrote:
>>>>
>>>> "Cydrome Leader" <presence@MUNGEpanix.com> wrote in message
>>>> news:hrfgmg$ef5$1@reader1.panix.com...
>>>>> ian field <gangprobing.alien@ntlworld.com> wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>> "Cydrome Leader" <presence@MUNGEpanix.com> wrote in message
>>>>>> news:hrf5im$ko7$1@reader1.panix.com...
>>>>>>> Yimin Rong <yiminrong@yahoo.ca> wrote:
>>>>>>>> Greetings,
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Can someone tell me the part # of the magnetron for microwave oven
>>>>>>>> Emerson MW9107WC?
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> I know I could probably just take it apart and see for myself, but
>>>>>>>> would like to determine cost effectiveness of getting a replacement
>>>>>>>> part and repairing myself, bringing to service technician, or just
>>>>>>>> getting a new one.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> How do you know the magnetron is bad, if you haven't even opened the
>>>>>>> unit
>>>>>>> yet?
>>>>>>
>>>>>> How do you know that you're dead?
>>>>>>
>>>>>> You just touched the 4kV terminal.
>>>>>
>>>>> just curious, have there been any microwave oven deaths recently?
>>>>>
>>>>> I used to hear about them every year or so from trade newsletters, but
>>>>> considering a microwave oven is throw away item these days, I'm guess
>>>>> less
>>>>> people bother to even have them fixed in the first place.
>>>>
>>>> Maybe the message is getting through to people just how lethal the HT
>>>> in
>>>> a
>>>> microwave is, or as you say less people bother repairing them.
>>>>
>>>> My microwave was found put outside someones door in the flats, when I
>>>> tested
>>>> it I found the mains plug wired wrong (live case) it worked fine once
>>>> the
>>>> plug had been re-wired and has been since quite a long time ago.
>>>
>>> I've noticed they use torx-ish screws on them these days, probably to
>>> discourage people from opening them, but there's nothing other than the
>>> standard warnings on them for any electronics you plug in. considering
>>> they cost $99 these days, I don't see anybody other than people who used
>>> to actually fix stuff trying to salvage one.
>>
>> Mine has started to rust at the bottom of the oven compartment so I wave
>> the
>> leakage meter at it from time to time, meanwhile I rescue any that turn
>> up
>> in the bin room so there's a fighting chance to cobble something together
>> when the one I'm using eventually goes phut.
>
> Has anybody worked on those "inverter" microwaves that lack the giant
> transformer?
>
> I've been looking for one in the trash to peek inside, but haven't come
> across any
> yet.

Nor me - the suspense is killing me!

==============================================================================

You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "sci.electronics.repair"
group.

To post to this group, visit http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair?hl=en

To unsubscribe from this group, send email to sci.electronics.repair+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com

To change the way you get mail from this group, visit:
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/subscribe?hl=en

To report abuse, send email explaining the problem to abuse@googlegroups.com

==============================================================================
Google Groups: http://groups.google.com/?hl=en

Electronics

sci.electronics.repair - 25 new messages in 5 topics - digest

No Response to "sci.electronics.repair - 25 new messages in 5 topics - digest"

Post a Comment

Blog Roll

Blog Archive