sci.electronics.repair - 26 new messages in 9 topics - digest

sci.electronics.repair
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Today's topics:

==============================================================================
TOPIC: What caps is this?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/f138da91a9286cb2?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 6 ==
Date: Wed, May 19 2010 10:05 pm
From: Paul Conners

> Nice photo.

Thank you Canon! (A620, handheld.)

> Dimensions would have been helpful.

7 mm H, 4 mm W & D.

> My guess(tm) is Tantalum. It's not ceramic as it appears to be
> polarized. It's not metalized film, for the same reason. It's too
> small for electrolytic. That leaves tantalum.

Being molded plastic, does this automatically rule out electrolytic?

> Siemens sold their cazapitor division to EPCOS:

>
<http://www.kemet.com/kemet/web/homepage/kechome.nsf/weben/014FB383A945D093852

> 5751600535A31/$file/F3296_ProductSelection.pdf#page=3>
> and look for "Tantalum Molded Radial" on Page 7.

Resemblance? Color?

The originals are black and beveled at the front corners. None of these are.
Other than physical, not much to go on...

Thanks.

== 2 of 6 ==
Date: Wed, May 19 2010 10:05 pm
From: Paul Conners

> ** Looks very much like some German made " long life " electros I see in
> audio equipment made by Quad in the UK in the late 1970s and 1980s. Normal
> electros, airtight sealed in a plastic housing.

[Groan...] Just when I was convincing myself that they were poly-somethings.

> Funny thing is, they nearly all failed ( high ESR or open) after 10 to 15
> years.
> .... Phil

Yeah, I suspect the electros on this PCB causing all sorts of problems. Just
hoping that all the "traditional" form-factor caps I'd replaced were all the
bad ones. Now this non-standard fare...

Thanks, Phil.

== 3 of 6 ==
Date: Wed, May 19 2010 10:38 pm
From: Rafael Deliano

>> Dimensions would have been helpful.
> 7 mm H, 4 mm W & D.

7,3 x 4,2 x 4,7 mm
The Siemens type was "B 45 181"

>> My guess(tm) is Tantalum.

Yes.
There was an odd old rule "3 Ohm / Volt"
for minimal impendance to drive normal
tantals.
These claimed to be "schaltfest",
somewhat better quality.

MfG JRD

== 4 of 6 ==
Date: Thurs, May 20 2010 5:15 am
From: "ian field"

"Paul Conners" <pconners98@gUSmail.com> wrote in message
news:0001HW.C81A113E001FBDA2B01AD9AF@news.eternal-september.org...
>> ** Looks very much like some German made " long life " electros I see in
>> audio equipment made by Quad in the UK in the late 1970s and 1980s.
>> Normal
>> electros, airtight sealed in a plastic housing.
>
> [Groan...] Just when I was convincing myself that they were
> poly-somethings.
>
>> Funny thing is, they nearly all failed ( high ESR or open) after 10 to 15
>> years.
>> .... Phil
>
> Yeah, I suspect the electros on this PCB causing all sorts of problems.
> Just
> hoping that all the "traditional" form-factor caps I'd replaced were all
> the
> bad ones. Now this non-standard fare...
>
> Thanks, Phil.

If you think one/some are faulty, make a note of value/voltage and break one
open - the difference between an alu' foil electro and a tant' should be
easy to see.

== 5 of 6 ==
Date: Thurs, May 20 2010 9:19 am
From: Jeff Liebermann

On Wed, 19 May 2010 22:05:48 -0700, Paul Conners
<pconners98@gUSmail.com> wrote:

>7 mm H, 4 mm W & D.
>
>> My guess(tm) is Tantalum. It's not ceramic as it appears to be
>> polarized. It's not metalized film, for the same reason. It's too
>> small for electrolytic. That leaves tantalum.
>
>Being molded plastic, does this automatically rule out electrolytic?

Possibly, because I've never seen any electrolytics in Epoxy-B molded
packages. However, Phil Allison indicates that they might be
electolytics, so I can't be 100.0% certain. Worse, the original photo
shows a silk screen component outline that's somewhat larger than the
Siemens capacitors. I'm fairly sure that anything 7x4x4mm would be
tantalum, but the larger outline size could easily have been either
tantalum or electrolytic.

>The originals are black and beveled at the front corners. None of these are.
>Other than physical, not much to go on...

A Kemet substitution might be problematic as they don't have a
packages that's an exact match. Sorry for the diversion.

If you don't want to crack one open to see what's inside, and finding
an exact substitute seems to be a problem, then replacement with a
simple dip tantalum 1uf 50v should both fit and work. I don't have
any problems with substituting tantalum for aluminum electrolytic
because of the lower ESR of tantalum. However, going the other way
will probably not work.

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

== 6 of 6 ==
Date: Thurs, May 20 2010 9:51 am
From: Paul Conners

> I'm fairly sure that anything 7x4x4mm would be
> tantalum...

They are tantalum:

<http://www.datasheetarchive.com/pdf-datasheets/Datasheets-17/DSA-334079.pdf>

The German electronics news group was the resource that broke the case...

Thanks to everyone who contributed.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: technics amp SU-Z200 low volume problem
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/9e0b05e00f883d65?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Wed, May 19 2010 10:07 pm
From: Franc Zabkar

On Wed, 19 May 2010 13:44:20 -0700 (PDT), b
<reverend_rogers@yahoo.com> put finger to keyboard and composed:

>It's looking as if the IC is shot, and it seesm to be NLA.....

http://www.bdent.com/search/part.jsp?partnum=STK4152II

- Franc Zabkar
--
Please remove one 'i' from my address when replying by email.

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Thurs, May 20 2010 6:40 am
From: "William R. Walsh"

Hi!

> It's looking as if the IC is shot, and it seesm to be NLA.....

It's a common problem. In a lot of these 80s Technics amplifiers, the
Sanyo power amplifier IC goes bad. I've come to believe that they are
somewhat "failure prone". Interestingly enough, it seems that other
designs using these modules were more reliable--I have some Aiwa "all
in one" stereo systems and a little Pioneer receiver that use the
Sanyo module. None of these run as hot as do the Technics
receivers...perhaps another data point?

Despite being played hard at times, these units have never caused any
trouble. Of course, most of the time I happened to come across such
older Technics gear, it had already been treated badly.

There is a more sinister problem--the Sanyo module integrates speaker
protection through electronic means. The idea is that if one of the
final transistors breaks, this electronic protection circuit will
break the path between module and speaker so that your speaker does
not become exposed to a power supply rail and burn out. Unfortunately,
the protection circuit is usually destroyed and the speaker burns out.

I thought all of the Technics amplifiers that used these hybrid
modules relied on the electronic protection. After searching for a
long time to find a nice one in working condition, I discovered an
SA-929 receiver (also based on a house numbered Sanyo integrated
amplifier module) that has an outboard DC protection relay. This
should save the speakers if anything goes wrong.

I also found that the relay itself had pitted contacts, resulting in
intermittent audio output from one speaker or another. Cleaning the
relay contacts resolved this problem, but in the process I found bad
solder joints that were aggravated by my opening the relay.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K0cObJ7o8vE (SA-929)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sgdTnBU0_N0 (SA-929 repairs)

I have seen at least one other report that suggested bad solder on the
protection relay's coil contacts was to blame for intermittent audio.

If you have enough room and another partially broken part, you might
try this for a fix (different amp, similar module):

http://john.ccac.rwth-aachen.de:8000/misc/rr100rep/

I've never tried it, nor is that my page.

William

==============================================================================
TOPIC: opposite of an RF Modulator?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/8b592fa97d607ae0?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 6 ==
Date: Wed, May 19 2010 10:19 pm
From: mm

Does there exist the opposite of an RF Modulator? Something that will
take RF and turn it into digital for a digital tv?

Details:
I don't need this yet but I'm trying to plan ahead. What will I do
when I have one or two digital tvs, but I'm sending analog to all the
tvs in the house? I don't have the energy anymore to install
homeruns from the DVDR to any tv but the one in the same room. All
the rest are in series ther. I don't have the energy to run RCA
cables for composite or component inputs.

Right now, I use a DVDR and an RF modulator to take digital over the
air tv, detect it, and convert it to analog. and I send it to the 7
tv's I have, one in each room, and maybe one for the deck too. After
some effort, with some help from you guys, this works fine. The attic
antenna goes to the DVDR in my bedroom and soon, I'll have a set-top
box too (and a Channelplus modulator outputing two inputs on separate
channels), so I can record one show and watch a second, while sending
the second throughout the house.

I'm not going to buy 8 digital tv's at one time, and in reality, I'm
only going to get them one at a time over the next 10 or 20 years,
dpending on what I see at yard sales.

So what will I do when I have one or two digital tvs, but I'm sending
analog to all the tvs? I don't have the energy anymore to install
homeruns from the DVDR to any tv but the one in the same room. All
the rest are in series. I don't have the energy to run RCA cables for
composite or component.

Can I convert the analog back to digital for the digital tvs?

== 2 of 6 ==
Date: Thurs, May 20 2010 12:04 am
From: Bob AZ

On May 19, 10:19�pm, mm <NOPSAMmm2...@bigfoot.com> wrote:
> Does there exist the opposite of an RF Modulator? �Something that will
> take RF and turn it into digital for a digital tv?
>
> Details:
> I don't need this yet but I'm trying to plan ahead. What will I do
> when I have one or two digital tvs, but I'm sending analog to all the
> tvs in the house? � �I don't have the energy anymore to install
> homeruns from the DVDR to any tv but the one in the same room. �All
> the rest are in series ther. �I don't have the energy to run RCA
> cables for composite or component inputs.
>
> Right now, I use a DVDR and an RF modulator to take digital over the
> air tv, detect it, and convert it to analog. and I send it to the 7
> tv's I have, one in each room, and maybe one for the deck too. � After
> some effort, with some help from you guys, this works fine. �The attic
> antenna goes to the DVDR in my bedroom and soon, I'll have a set-top
> box too (and a Channelplus modulator outputing two inputs on separate
> channels), so I can record one show and watch a second, while sending
> the second throughout the house.
>
> I'm not going to buy 8 digital tv's at one time, and in reality, I'm
> only going to get them one at a time over the next 10 or 20 years,
> dpending on what I see at yard sales. �
>
> So what will I do when I have one or two digital tvs, but I'm sending
> analog to all the tvs? � �I don't have the energy anymore to install
> homeruns from the DVDR to any tv but the one in the same room. �All
> the rest are in series. �I don't have the energy to run RCA cables for
> composite or component.
>
> Can I convert the analog back to digital for the digital tvs?

The opposite of a RF Modulator is a RF Demodulator. These take many
forms depending on what you would like to recover from a modulated
signal. A RF receiver is a form of a demodulator. It recovers the
signal from the modulated RF signal and outputs it as whatever. Think
AM and FM. These further come in types such as analog, digital, pulse
and others. What detects this information is many faceted. The one
that comes to mind is a simply diode detector that designed to a
plethora of specifications is wide or narrow band, freauency sensitive
and anything else you would like. I am sure Wikipedia has lots of
discussion that would prove interesting to you.

Bob AZ

== 3 of 6 ==
Date: Thurs, May 20 2010 5:05 am
From: Rich Webb

On Thu, 20 May 2010 01:19:04 -0400, mm <NOPSAMmm2005@bigfoot.com> wrote:

[snippety snip]
>So what will I do when I have one or two digital tvs, but I'm sending
>analog to all the tvs?

Some (many? most? all?) current generation U.S. flat-screen television
receivers include both NTST (analog) and ATSC (digital) tuners. The NTSC
tuners work the same way on the flat-screens as they do for the older,
CRC-based models, so you may not need to make any changes to your
distribution system at all.

>Can I convert the analog back to digital for the digital tvs?

Not easily or cheaply. The consumer-grade market for such a gizmo is
very small. If you wanted to do the heavy lifting, the specs for each
are available and it certainly could be done in principle. Some guy with
a web page has probably already done it but you're not likely to find
one on the shelf at WalMart.

--
Rich Webb Norfolk, VA

== 4 of 6 ==
Date: Thurs, May 20 2010 6:52 am
From: AZ Nomad

On Thu, 20 May 2010 01:19:04 -0400, mm <NOPSAMmm2005@bigfoot.com> wrote:
>Does there exist the opposite of an RF Modulator? Something that will
>take RF and turn it into digital for a digital tv?

it's called a tuner

== 5 of 6 ==
Date: Thurs, May 20 2010 6:56 am
From: "William Sommerwerck"

I think this is a troll, but...

To make a long story short... Almost all TVs have inputs for analog audio
and video. By that I mean "baseband" (not RF) signals, such as composite
NTSC or component 1080p. With high-quality cabling, you should be able to
run these signals to multiple sets.

== 6 of 6 ==
Date: Thurs, May 20 2010 10:37 am
From: David Brodbeck

On May 20, 6:52 am, AZ Nomad <aznoma...@PremoveOBthisOX.COM> wrote:
> it's called a tuner

I used to use a VCR as a tuner in my TV projection setup. Worked
pretty well. I bet an old VCR with a busted tape transport can be had
pretty cheaply these days.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Rega RB300 turntable...
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/6fe769494aca3a1c?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Thurs, May 20 2010 12:59 am
From: Jim Lesurf

In article <SbZIn.6128$ea4.2910@newsfe29.ams2>, Ian Iveson
<IanIveson.home@blueyonder.co.uk> wrote:

> "Jim Lesurf" <noise@audiomisc.co.uk> wrote in message
> news:5119e3ce32noise@audiomisc.co.uk...

> > Must admit I was less than impressed with the circuit at the time.
> > From this thread it does look like this resistor is prone to burning.
> > Although perhaps that is made worse by the risk of the motor being
> > stalled or loaded.

> Perhaps? Certainly, surely?

No, I can't say for *sure* since I don't now know the rest of the circuit
details or the motor characteristics, fusing, etc. Lacking details I can
only say "perhaps" in the above.

> Is it really likely, do you think, that the manufacturer would continue
> to fit an inappropriate resistor for so long? It's not like resistor
> power rating is complicated or arcane. Cost difference can't be that
> significant, and there's no shortage of space.

Afraid I have no data to base a general value of what is "likely". I can
only note that:

1) I found that the resistor was burned out and seemed to me to be rather
small (hence probably low power rating) and replaced it with a higher rated
one.

2) That others here are commenting in a way that supports this idea.

> It would be interesting to know how the winding resistance compares
> with the impedance of an up-to-speed motor. If the difference is great
> enough, it could be that all those burned-out resistors are a result of
> stalled motors or increased drag, or even the fitting of heavy
> platters. It's also possible that every burned-out resistor has saved a
> motor winding, in which case a higher-rated resistor would be a
> liability.

That is possible. All kinds of speculations might sometimes return "true".
:-) However in the case of the resistor I replaced the turntable seems to
have worked fine since. The owner seems quite happy with it some years
later.

However, joining you in speculation, the problem with fitting components
with (relatively) low power ratings is that the component tends to run hot
and this can shorten life or lead to other problems. Given the cost of the
turntable it might be better to use a better design for the PSU. Or even
use a fuse that is user-replacable without a soldering iron. Or ensure that
the system is rated to remain undamaged even with a prolonged stall.

I agree that low power resistors are cheap, though. :-)

Slainte,

Jim

--
Please use the address on the audiomisc page if you wish to email me.
Electronics http://www.st-and.ac.uk/~www_pa/Scots_Guide/intro/electron.htm
Armstrong Audio http://www.audiomisc.co.uk/Armstrong/armstrong.html
Audio Misc http://www.audiomisc.co.uk/index.html

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Thurs, May 20 2010 3:40 am
From: PeterD

On Wed, 19 May 2010 22:44:37 +0100, "Ian Iveson"
<IanIveson.home@blueyonder.co.uk> wrote:

>
>I've read this a few times but....perhaps you misunderstood.
>I was entertaining the theory that the 120 ohm resistor
>drops the difference between 220V (or whatever the motor
>hopes for) and UK mains, i.e. 10 or 15V, whatever it was
>when the deck was made.

IIRC the setup was that the motor was a 120 volt motor used on a 240
volt mains. Not a 220 volt motor on a 240 volt mains. If the desired
drop is only 12 to 15V then you are correct for the value. But that is
not what I understood.

>If that difference has increased by,
>say 25% from 12V to 15V, then the change that has been
>mentioned, from 120 to 150 ohms, makes sense, roughly.
>Everything that Arthur has said seems to fit this theory.
>It's simple, too.
>
>Anyway, as I understand it, Arthur's worried because if it's
>supposed to be a much higher value, he might do some damage.

I'd agree, given the conditions in my comment above, that a 120 ohm
resistor might in fact do damage.

>That's why I homed in on the voltage dropping issue.
>Whatever else it might do, a resistor in series will
>certainly drop voltage. If the value is much too low, then
>it could result in a burnout. This is true whatever its
>effect on direction, speed, torque and lots of other stuff I
>don't know about but probably everyone else does but didn't
>fancy saying so until now.
>
>I wonder if he's tried it yet?
>
>Ian
>

I thought he had, but I'd have to go see if there is a reply.
Something about using three or four larger resistors in parallel...

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Fluke Scopemeter 199
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/0cfaff10705fe0ca?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Thurs, May 20 2010 2:14 am
From: JW

On Wed, 19 May 2010 19:31:08 -0400 Jamie
<jamie_ka1lpa_not_valid_after_ka1lpa_@charter.net> wrote in Message id:
<zu_In.29549$_84.19682@newsfe18.iad>:

>Pat Jordan wrote:
>> On May 18, 6:33 pm, Merciadri Luca <merciadril...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>>On May 18, 4:07 pm, Pat Jordan <mymailgene...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>>
>>
>> CHB voltage fluctuates greatly with nothing attached. Suspect Philips
>> 000262HL N1E5Y9 HSH0144 i.c but cannot find a reference to this semi
>> on the web. Cost of repair is ridiculously high - could buy a
>> competitors scope for the cost quoted for repair! Any ideas?
>>
>>
>>>The fact is that, as you know, Fluke is some kind of trustmark. It'd
>>>be better to replace the defective component than to go for a
>>>competitor main unit. For the rest, I cannot tell you more about how
>>>to find a solution.
>>
>>
>> Thanks Merciadi Luca, I have several thousand Euros worth of Fluke
>> test equipment as I believed they were dependable.
>Really, I just filed, in its proper place, A fluke 787 process DMM..
>
> Its now has a proper resting place, the garbage can.

A great place for their signal generators as well (6060, 6080, etc.)

==============================================================================
TOPIC: AC current sensor with interface
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/7447c1bcf49c904f?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Thurs, May 20 2010 2:33 am
From: Geir Holmavatn

Hi,

I'm looking for non-contact current sensors for 0-60/70A AC connected to
some digital interface (1-wire, GPIB, RS422, ethernet etc). The
measured cable should run through a hole in the sensor and not be
galvanically connected.

I need to monitor and register AC current with a computer from different
appliances...

Thanks for comments and tips on where I can find such sensors..

regards Geir

== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Thurs, May 20 2010 9:33 am
From: Bennett Price

Look at:
http://www.davis.com/catalog/product_view.asp?sku=6847977&pfx=
and
http://www.coleparmer.com/catalog/product_view.asp?sku=1880820&pfx=
(add your own donut current xformer)

On 5/20/2010 2:33 AM, Geir Holmavatn wrote:
> Hi,
>
> I'm looking for non-contact current sensors for 0-60/70A AC connected to
> some digital interface (1-wire, GPIB, RS422, ethernet etc). The measured
> cable should run through a hole in the sensor and not be galvanically
> connected.
>
> I need to monitor and register AC current with a computer from different
> appliances...
>
> Thanks for comments and tips on where I can find such sensors..
>
> regards Geir

== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Thurs, May 20 2010 10:38 am
From: David Nebenzahl

[please don't top-post]

On 5/20/2010 9:33 AM Bennett Price spake thus:

> On 5/20/2010 2:33 AM, Geir Holmavatn wrote:
>
>> I'm looking for non-contact current sensors for 0-60/70A AC connected to
>> some digital interface (1-wire, GPIB, RS422, ethernet etc). The measured
>> cable should run through a hole in the sensor and not be galvanically
>> connected.
>>
>> I need to monitor and register AC current with a computer from different
>> appliances...
>>
>> Thanks for comments and tips on where I can find such sensors..
>
> Look at:
> http://www.davis.com/catalog/product_view.asp?sku=6847977&pfx=

Hmmm; only $255 ...

> and
> http://www.coleparmer.com/catalog/product_view.asp?sku=1880820&pfx=
> (add your own donut current xformer)

Not a sensor, but whatever ...

How 'bout an inexpensive current xformer, which seems to be what the OP
wants?

--
The fashion in killing has an insouciant, flirty style this spring,
with the flaunting of well-defined muscle, wrapped in flags.

- Comment from an article on Antiwar.com (http://antiwar.com)

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Followup re: USB malfunction ? / Ezbus digital mixer /Ez-usb USB chip
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/a3a382fddd16c1f3?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Thurs, May 20 2010 6:17 am
From: "N_Cook"

Franc Zabkar <fzabkar@iinternode.on.net> wrote in message
news:v16au55l7efkpp3s4891vs52e84invl93a@4ax.com...
> On Wed, 5 May 2010 08:56:58 +0100, "N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk> put
> finger to keyboard and composed:
>
> >that 1K5 will have to go back in , It is the first point of recognition
for
> >USB linking. Next to find why DISCON is permanently H.
>
> My understanding is that the pullup resistor on D+ signals to the host
> (your PC) that a USB device has been plugged in. The host then
> attempts to enumerate (ie identify) the device.
>
> If the device takes too long to go through its POST and initialisation
> routines, then the host may time out. In such cases the device may
> implement an active pullup which is disabled during its POST. When the
> device is ready, the pullup resistor is enabled, allowing enumeration
> to begin.
>
> AIUI, the normal state of DISCON# is high.
>
> See this EZ-USB Development Board (circuit on pages 5 & 6):
> http://www.minford.ca/MF3001EZUSBManual.pdf
>
> I found this detailed document:
>
> The EZ-USB USB Integrated Circuit Technical Reference:
> http://www.digchip.com/data/115/115-00027-0-AN2121S.pdf
>
> It states that EZ-USB devices can power up in RAM-only mode, in which
> case the host downloads runtime code into the 8051 CPU's internal 8K
> RAM. During this time the device identifies itself as a "Default USB
> Device". After the code has been downloaded, the device disconnects
> and then reconnects, this time renumerating as the device defined
> within the downloaded code.
>
> Page 41 describes the EA (external access) pin. I think this may be
> the key to how the device behaves. The tech ref also talks about mask
> ROMed versions. Perhaps there is a way to force the EZ-USB chip into
> RAM-only mode??? If so, then this will remove any corrupt firmware
> from the equation. You could then use UVCView to see how the device
> enumerates under these circumstances.
>
> You could also disconnect the serial EEPROM, if any. The EEPROM would
> contain Product and Vendor IDs for the manufacturer of the mixer. If
> the EEPROM is absent, then the EZ-USB chip will ID with the PID and
> VID of 0x0547 (Cypress Semiconductor) and 0x2131 (EZ-USB),
> respectively.
>
> - Franc Zabkar
> --
> Please remove one 'i' from my address when replying by email.

I got back to this today. Saved to disc the existing (corrupted ?) data in
the serial EEPROM and cut the SDA line to the Ez-usb chip.
The EZbus mixer is no longer "Becoming Ezbus" and a blank screen.
But windows recognises a USB device connected and by UVCView/USB view the
USB is working up to the USB chip , reading

---===>Device Information<===---

ConnectionStatus:
Current Config Value: 0x00 -> Device Bus Speed: Full
Device Address: 0x00
Open Pipes: 0
*!*ERROR: No open pipes!

===>Device Descriptor<===
bLength: 0x12
bDescriptorType: 0x01
bcdUSB: 0x0100
bDeviceClass: 0xFF -> This is a Vendor Specific Device
bDeviceSubClass: 0xFF
bDeviceProtocol: 0xFF
bMaxPacketSize0: 0x40 = (64) Bytes
idVendor: 0x0547idProduct:
0x2131
bcdDevice: 0x0004
iManufacturer: 0x00
iProduct: 0x00
iSerialNumber: 0x00
bNumConfigurations: 0x01

ie Cypress VID/PID

Where to now? presumably forcing a pipe somehow

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Allah, CREATED THE UNIVERSE FROM NOTHING
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/d304b0e66e9026f0?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 4 ==
Date: Thurs, May 20 2010 7:20 am
From: Jeffrey D Angus

Jeff Liebermann wrote:
> That's because you're not a werewolf:
> <http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/pics/jeffl/slides/jeffl-wolf.html>
> (Give it some time to load).

That's not a werewolf, that's a wolf. THIS is a werewolf.
https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhm0D3ZDQmjL9m_b94wyIj4PJzflK8yiVa8aK5fkKGk7C7kv2qL0vkcjY9PqC2_jkEeRm3SZhXnlDMfoj-2ZhnXx8L0li4rnzCHmjGPdYRgd3nCd2db9WMc_STB8HYLQKX1Ei2ductviRI/s1600-h/I+Was+A+Teenage+Werewolf+werewolfeyes.jpg

--
"Egotism is the anesthetic that dulls the pain of stupidity."
Frank Leahy, Head coach, Notre Dame 1941-1954

http://www.stay-connect.com

== 2 of 4 ==
Date: Thurs, May 20 2010 8:41 am
From: propman

On 20/05/2010 7:20 AM, Jeffrey D Angus wrote:
> Jeff Liebermann wrote:
>> That's because you're not a werewolf:
>> <http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/pics/jeffl/slides/jeffl-wolf.html>
>> (Give it some time to load).
>
> That's not a werewolf, that's a wolf. THIS is a werewolf.
> https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhm0D3ZDQmjL9m_b94wyIj4PJzflK8yiVa8aK5fkKGk7C7kv2qL0vkcjY9PqC2_jkEeRm3SZhXnlDMfoj-2ZhnXx8L0li4rnzCHmjGPdYRgd3nCd2db9WMc_STB8HYLQKX1Ei2ductviRI/s1600-h/I+Was+A+Teenage+Werewolf+werewolfeyes.jpg
>

That's not a werewolf....that's my ex-wife!

== 3 of 4 ==
Date: Thurs, May 20 2010 8:46 am
From: Jeff Liebermann

On Thu, 20 May 2010 09:20:29 -0500, Jeffrey D Angus
<jangus@suddenlink.net> wrote:

>Jeff Liebermann wrote:
>> That's because you're not a werewolf:
>> <http://802.11junk.com/jeffl/pics/jeffl/slides/jeffl-wolf.html>
>> (Give it some time to load).
>
>That's not a werewolf, that's a wolf. THIS is a werewolf.
>https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhm0D3ZDQmjL9m_b94wyIj4PJzflK8yiVa8aK5fkKGk7C7kv2qL0vkcjY9PqC2_jkEeRm3SZhXnlDMfoj-2ZhnXx8L0li4rnzCHmjGPdYRgd3nCd2db9WMc_STB8HYLQKX1Ei2ductviRI/s1600-h/I+Was+A+Teenage+Werewolf+werewolfeyes.jpg

Yeah, that's what I used to look like just as the full moon would come
up. Still mostly human but not quite wolf. The problem was that it
didn't turn on either the maidens or the female wolves. Instead of
frightening the prey, they would just laugh and recommend their
orthodontist. It was embarrassing. I eventually learned how to
finish the job, become 100.0% wolf, and howled happily ever after.

More:
<http://www.LearnByDestroying.com/nooze/werewolf.txt>

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

== 4 of 4 ==
Date: Thurs, May 20 2010 9:44 am
From: Jeffrey D Angus

Jeff Liebermann wrote:
> More:
> <http://www.LearnByDestroying.com/nooze/werewolf.txt>
That's too funny.
Thanks

Jeff

--
"Egotism is the anesthetic that dulls the pain of stupidity."
Frank Leahy, Head coach, Notre Dame 1941-1954

http://www.stay-connect.com

==============================================================================
TOPIC: BWS688 is dead
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/b88c19d1c4c5cfb2?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Thurs, May 20 2010 11:04 am
From: Merciadri Luca

On May 19, 11:36 pm, "Vale" <V...@fastwebnet.it> wrote:
> "Merciadri Luca" <merciadril...@gmail.com> ha scritto nel messaggionews:82a3b96d-e49f-4306-97ed-747f46d7ad7f@m4g2000vbl.googlegroups.com...
> On May 19, 8:44 pm, Meat Plow <mhyw...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>
>
> > On Wed, 19 May 2010 20:13:16 +0200, Vale wrote:
> > > "Merciadri Luca" <merciadril...@gmail.com> ha scritto nel messaggio
> > > news:bf873332-81d6-4c08-8219-
>
> > b82e32fd3...@e21g2000vbl.googlegroups.com...
>
> > > On May 18, 9:40 pm, Meat Plow <mhyw...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> > >> On Tue, 18 May 2010 12:23:14 -0700, Merciadri Luca wrote:
> > >> > On May 18, 8:28 pm, Meat Plow <mhyw...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> > >> >> On Tue, 18 May 2010 10:56:56 -0700, Merciadri Luca wrote:
> > >> >> > On May 18, 7:53 pm, Meat Plow <mhyw...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> > >> >> >> On Tue, 18 May 2010 10:49:02 -0700, Merciadri Luca wrote:
> > >> >> >> > On May 18, 7:44 pm, Meat Plow <mhyw...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> > >> >> >> >> Sorry to hear one BWS688 isn't working.
>
> No problem. The fact is that I'm not an electronic guru, sure. Note
> that I'm not Italian, and that I consequently can't write topics in
> Italian.
>
> Sorry Luca, your name & surname looks like just as mine, Italian.
> Go ahead, get passionated in electronics and for shure you'll became as
> expert as Meat Plow....
> Can't help you with your gizmo, but it looks like it just doesn't transmit.
> You will need some skill to investigate the power out RF stage as well as
> the typical other basic circuits involved in p.s.
> Good luck!

Thanks both. Actually, I _can_ verify if measures are correct at the
transmitter, but how can I know e.g. which voltages I should get
between a point A and a point B, both points being well defined? There
is absolutely no manual or tech. specs. for the transmitter.

@Vale: You couldn't guess that I'm not really Italian. That is, my
name & surnames are Italian, but I'm not. But there is absolutely no
problem to it. :)

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