sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Today's topics:

* MC68701 Controller - 3 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/ce2dc0d81d300503?hl=en
* LAPTOP RECOVERY - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/206d8b50c0902866?hl=en
* Unknown Turntable belt size - how to determine? - 4 messages, 3 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/c24e9d584f436d41?hl=en
* 1999 Ford Windstar Front Electronic Module replace/repair? - 9 messages, 5
authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/053dc6b295b182eb?hl=en
* 2000 Lincoln ignition coil problems - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/4681fb0a9d56c3b0?hl=en
* Lucas 9EM ignition module. - 5 messages, 3 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/1b14e8b5ffcbab0d?hl=en
* Replacement parts? - 2 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/6898d3e0e37548bd?hl=en

==============================================================================
TOPIC: MC68701 Controller
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/ce2dc0d81d300503?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Fri, Jun 4 2010 6:24 pm
From: Stefan Huebner

Hi all,

Does anyone still know the MC68701? It's the EPROM version of the 6801.
It offers a Mode 0 which allows for reading and writing the internal
EPROM - not like the Hitachi 68xx which can be read and written as 27256
with an appropriate adaptor, this beast needs a monitor program run in
mode 0 to work on the EPROM.

Now I have one 68701 left with some special code in it and need to
reverse engineer the serial protocol it talks (there are some codes sent
to another system which couldn't be simulated once we tried, so I need
to know which condition leads to sending them).

I built a small circuit with the 68701, a HCT573 latch, a 2764 with
Motorolas ProBug monitor in it and a HCT138 wired somewhat weird - A12,
A14 and A15 go to A,B and C, while A13 goes to /G1, /G2 is grounded and
G3 goes to E. Which makes a chip select for B000:BFFF on Y7.
But I cannot get the damn thing reading from my EPROM! The data sheet
says clearly that in mode 0, the reset vector is BFFE:BFFF. But my 68701
will never read from any Bxxx addresses for a single cycle!
Switchhing it to mode 2 or 4 for example works. Opposite to the 6801,
which fetches the reset address from FFFE:FFFF also in mode 0 (but then
allowing those two addresses to be supplied externally for 2 E-cycles)
the 68701 should read from my EPROM on Bxxx.

Anyone an idea?

== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Sat, Jun 5 2010 3:38 am
From: Franc Zabkar

On Sat, 05 Jun 2010 03:24:15 +0200, Stefan Huebner
<stefan@huebner-informationselektronik.de> put finger to keyboard and
composed:

>I built a small circuit with the 68701, a HCT573 latch, a 2764 with
>Motorolas ProBug monitor in it and a HCT138 wired somewhat weird - A12,
>A14 and A15 go to A,B and C, while A13 goes to /G1, /G2 is grounded and
>G3 goes to E. Which makes a chip select for B000:BFFF on Y7.

0xB = 0b1011

Shouldn't A14 and A13 be swapped?

- Franc Zabkar
--
Please remove one 'i' from my address when replying by email.

== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Sat, Jun 5 2010 4:24 am
From: Stefan Huebner

Franc, you are GREAT!

I will go and bite my very own a** on monday.

I wrapped the circuit together on veroboard somewhen in the evening and
now I hope that I actually made the mistake I wrote below.

Ten years ago I had some colleagues who would have looked at my circuit,
as the one who built it is always somewhat blind. They would have
started smiling, tell me, and then we'd have gone for a coffee
downstairs at the other workshop. It's about time I start looking for
new rooms and some colleagues who work with me.

Franc Zabkar schrieb:
> On Sat, 05 Jun 2010 03:24:15 +0200, Stefan Huebner
> <stefan@huebner-informationselektronik.de> put finger to keyboard and
> composed:
>
>> I built a small circuit with the 68701, a HCT573 latch, a 2764 with
>> Motorolas ProBug monitor in it and a HCT138 wired somewhat weird - A12,
>> A14 and A15 go to A,B and C, while A13 goes to /G1, /G2 is grounded and
>> G3 goes to E. Which makes a chip select for B000:BFFF on Y7.
>
> 0xB = 0b1011
>
> Shouldn't A14 and A13 be swapped?
>
> - Franc Zabkar

==============================================================================
TOPIC: LAPTOP RECOVERY
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/206d8b50c0902866?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sat, Jun 5 2010 1:56 am
From: NEELU

LAPTOP RECOVERY
******
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***
http://sites.google.com/site/medicalmalpracticelawmichigan/
***
http://sites.google.com/site/onlineinsurancequotesapply/
***
http://sites.google.com/site/laptopdatarecoverysoftware/
***
http://sites.google.com/site/benchmarklendinggroup/

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Unknown Turntable belt size - how to determine?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/c24e9d584f436d41?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 4 ==
Date: Sat, Jun 5 2010 2:57 am
From: Franc Zabkar

On Thu, 03 Jun 2010 21:38:53 -0700, David Nebenzahl
<nobody@but.us.chickens> put finger to keyboard and composed:

>Instead of string, which does stretch, you might try a strip of paper.
>
>Which reminds me of an old turntable I used to have. As a kid in Tucson,
>not quite 20, I found a used turntable in a junk shop there. Cheap,
>because it had no belt. Took it home, and being the resourceful lad I
>was, I made a belt out of paper, the ends glued together with white
>glue. Worked great! No problems with wow & flutter or rumble. The paper
>belts lasted maybe a month or so before breaking. The bulb-shaped motor
>pulley kept the belt tracking true.

I've heard that you can use a nylon stocking as a replacement fan belt
...

- Franc Zabkar
--
Please remove one 'i' from my address when replying by email.

== 2 of 4 ==
Date: Sat, Jun 5 2010 3:15 am
From: "N_Cook"

Franc Zabkar <fzabkar@iinternode.on.net> wrote in message
news:5p7k06dmscb5nvm2ej8g9ij8e6ca109m6r@4ax.com...
> On Thu, 03 Jun 2010 21:38:53 -0700, David Nebenzahl
> <nobody@but.us.chickens> put finger to keyboard and composed:
>
> >Instead of string, which does stretch, you might try a strip of paper.
> >
> >Which reminds me of an old turntable I used to have. As a kid in Tucson,
> >not quite 20, I found a used turntable in a junk shop there. Cheap,
> >because it had no belt. Took it home, and being the resourceful lad I
> >was, I made a belt out of paper, the ends glued together with white
> >glue. Worked great! No problems with wow & flutter or rumble. The paper
> >belts lasted maybe a month or so before breaking. The bulb-shaped motor
> >pulley kept the belt tracking true.
>
> I've heard that you can use a nylon stocking as a replacement fan belt
> ...
>
> - Franc Zabkar
> --
> Please remove one 'i' from my address when replying by email.

I'd like to know if they make good anti-tank weapons. Knowing they are the
bane of the life of drott and dozer drivers operating on council landfill
dumps. Getting into the track drive they stall the engine. I imagine masses
of tights and stockings fired into tank caterpillar drives would do the
same.

== 3 of 4 ==
Date: Sat, Jun 5 2010 3:42 am
From: Franc Zabkar

On Sat, 5 Jun 2010 11:15:28 +0100, "N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk> put
finger to keyboard and composed:

>Franc Zabkar <fzabkar@iinternode.on.net> wrote in message
>news:5p7k06dmscb5nvm2ej8g9ij8e6ca109m6r@4ax.com...
>> On Thu, 03 Jun 2010 21:38:53 -0700, David Nebenzahl
>> <nobody@but.us.chickens> put finger to keyboard and composed:
>>
>> >Instead of string, which does stretch, you might try a strip of paper.
>> >
>> >Which reminds me of an old turntable I used to have. As a kid in Tucson,
>> >not quite 20, I found a used turntable in a junk shop there. Cheap,
>> >because it had no belt. Took it home, and being the resourceful lad I
>> >was, I made a belt out of paper, the ends glued together with white
>> >glue. Worked great! No problems with wow & flutter or rumble. The paper
>> >belts lasted maybe a month or so before breaking. The bulb-shaped motor
>> >pulley kept the belt tracking true.
>>
>> I've heard that you can use a nylon stocking as a replacement fan belt
>> ...

>I'd like to know if they make good anti-tank weapons. Knowing they are the
>bane of the life of drott and dozer drivers operating on council landfill
>dumps. Getting into the track drive they stall the engine. I imagine masses
>of tights and stockings fired into tank caterpillar drives would do the
>same.

I reckon soldiers in tights and stockings would stop a tank commander
in his tracks.

- Franc Zabkar
--
Please remove one 'i' from my address when replying by email.

== 4 of 4 ==
Date: Sat, Jun 5 2010 8:50 am
From: "Michael A. Terrell"

Franc Zabkar wrote:
>
> On Sat, 5 Jun 2010 11:15:28 +0100, "N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk> put
> finger to keyboard and composed:
>
> >Franc Zabkar <fzabkar@iinternode.on.net> wrote in message
> >news:5p7k06dmscb5nvm2ej8g9ij8e6ca109m6r@4ax.com...
> >> On Thu, 03 Jun 2010 21:38:53 -0700, David Nebenzahl
> >> <nobody@but.us.chickens> put finger to keyboard and composed:
> >>
> >> >Instead of string, which does stretch, you might try a strip of paper.
> >> >
> >> >Which reminds me of an old turntable I used to have. As a kid in Tucson,
> >> >not quite 20, I found a used turntable in a junk shop there. Cheap,
> >> >because it had no belt. Took it home, and being the resourceful lad I
> >> >was, I made a belt out of paper, the ends glued together with white
> >> >glue. Worked great! No problems with wow & flutter or rumble. The paper
> >> >belts lasted maybe a month or so before breaking. The bulb-shaped motor
> >> >pulley kept the belt tracking true.
> >>
> >> I've heard that you can use a nylon stocking as a replacement fan belt
> >> ...
>
> >I'd like to know if they make good anti-tank weapons. Knowing they are the
> >bane of the life of drott and dozer drivers operating on council landfill
> >dumps. Getting into the track drive they stall the engine. I imagine masses
> >of tights and stockings fired into tank caterpillar drives would do the
> >same.
>
> I reckon soldiers in tights and stockings would stop a tank commander
> in his tracks.

I've met WACs like that. ;-)

--
Anyone wanting to run for any political office in the US should have to
have a DD214, and a honorable discharge.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: 1999 Ford Windstar Front Electronic Module replace/repair?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/053dc6b295b182eb?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 9 ==
Date: Sat, Jun 5 2010 5:40 am
From: Falk Willberg

A friend's 1999 Ford Windstar started to cause trouble a year ago:
The right front turn indicator went on once, then off and a problem with
the bulb was displayed, even though it was ok. Connecting front and side
indicator lamp "solved" the problem.
Later more electric devices, all controlled by this "FEM" went "mad":
Interior lights flashed, windscreen wiper turned on and off randomly,
theft protection sounded alarm without a cause.
Almost all 2pin SMD-Components are slightly misplaced, probably causing
bad soldering: (http://www.falk-willberg.de/Windstar/FEM-1.jpeg).

While removing the FEM from the car, the interior lights started
flashing. It stopped, when I knocked on the Module...

I would prefer to get a "FEM" from a junkyard, but the Ford dealer says,
that the module must be "clear", because otherwise the central computer
would refuse to communicate with the module. Any way to "clear" the module?

I could re-solder bad junctions, if I had an idea, where to start (I
don't want to do all of them).

Grateful for any advice,
Falk

== 2 of 9 ==
Date: Sat, Jun 5 2010 5:49 am
From: Meat Plow

On Sat, 05 Jun 2010 14:40:46 +0200, Falk Willberg ǝʇoɹʍ:

> A friend's 1999 Ford Windstar started to cause trouble a year ago: The
> right front turn indicator went on once, then off and a problem with the
> bulb was displayed, even though it was ok. Connecting front and side
> indicator lamp "solved" the problem.
> Later more electric devices, all controlled by this "FEM" went "mad":
> Interior lights flashed, windscreen wiper turned on and off randomly,
> theft protection sounded alarm without a cause. Almost all 2pin
> SMD-Components are slightly misplaced, probably causing bad soldering:
> (http://www.falk-willberg.de/Windstar/FEM-1.jpeg).
>
> While removing the FEM from the car, the interior lights started
> flashing. It stopped, when I knocked on the Module...
>
> I would prefer to get a "FEM" from a junkyard, but the Ford dealer says,
> that the module must be "clear", because otherwise the central computer
> would refuse to communicate with the module. Any way to "clear" the
> module?
>
> I could re-solder bad junctions, if I had an idea, where to start (I
> don't want to do all of them).
>
> Grateful for any advice,
> Falk

If the module has data stored in volatile RAM then removing the voltage
source responsible for holding that data in RAM would flush it. You did
talk to the person who advised you to clear the module on a way to do it?

== 3 of 9 ==
Date: Sat, Jun 5 2010 5:51 am
From: PeterD

On Sat, 05 Jun 2010 14:40:46 +0200, Falk Willberg
<faweglassenlk@falk-willberg.de> wrote:

>A friend's 1999 Ford Windstar started to cause trouble a year ago:
>The right front turn indicator went on once, then off and a problem with
>the bulb was displayed, even though it was ok. Connecting front and side
>indicator lamp "solved" the problem.
>Later more electric devices, all controlled by this "FEM" went "mad":
>Interior lights flashed, windscreen wiper turned on and off randomly,
>theft protection sounded alarm without a cause.
>Almost all 2pin SMD-Components are slightly misplaced, probably causing
>bad soldering: (http://www.falk-willberg.de/Windstar/FEM-1.jpeg).
>
>While removing the FEM from the car, the interior lights started
>flashing.

You tried to remove a module without first disconnecting the battery?
Absolutely the wrong thing to do, will typically damage the module.
Never, ever work on anything electrical/electronic with the battery
connected.

>It stopped, when I knocked on the Module...
>
>I would prefer to get a "FEM" from a junkyard, but the Ford dealer says,
>that the module must be "clear", because otherwise the central computer
>would refuse to communicate with the module. Any way to "clear" the module?

With the tool(s) from Ford.

>
>I could re-solder bad junctions, if I had an idea, where to start (I
>don't want to do all of them).

Do them all.

>
>Grateful for any advice,
>Falk

== 4 of 9 ==
Date: Sat, Jun 5 2010 6:39 am
From: Falk Willberg

Meat Plow schrieb:
> On Sat, 05 Jun 2010 14:40:46 +0200, Falk Willberg ??o??:

...

>> I would prefer to get a "FEM" from a junkyard, but the Ford dealer says,
>> that the module must be "clear", because otherwise the central computer
>> would refuse to communicate with the module. Any way to "clear" the
>> module?

...

> If the module has data stored in volatile RAM then removing the voltage
> source responsible for holding that data in RAM would flush it.

I was told that disconnecting the power does not do the job.

> You did
> talk to the person who advised you to clear the module on a way to do it?

I talked to the owner of the car who talked to someone, who told him
that. I also found some hint on the web, saying that some Ford-tools
need to be used to replace the FEM with a "blank" one.

It is said to be some kind of theft protection.

Falk

== 5 of 9 ==
Date: Sat, Jun 5 2010 6:46 am
From: Falk Willberg

PeterD schrieb:
> On Sat, 05 Jun 2010 14:40:46 +0200, Falk Willberg
> <faweglassenlk@falk-willberg.de> wrote:

...

>> While removing the FEM from the car, the interior lights started
>> flashing.
>
> You tried to remove a module without first disconnecting the battery?

No, not really. We only wanted to hear some music while we were
searching for screw #3 ;-) Before disconnecting the module, I
disconnected the battery.

...

> With the tool(s) from Ford.

The workshops my friend asked said, that they no longer have those tools...

>> I could re-solder bad junctions, if I had an idea, where to start (I
>> don't want to do all of them).
>
> Do them all.

I even refuse to count them:
http://falk-willberg.de/Windstar/FEM-Loetseite.jpeg
http://falk-willberg.de/Windstar/FEM-Bauteile.jpeg

Falk

== 6 of 9 ==
Date: Sat, Jun 5 2010 6:59 am
From: Gnack Nol

On Sat, 05 Jun 2010 15:39:49 +0200, Falk Willberg wrote:

Some deleted:

> I talked to the owner of the car who talked to someone, who told him
> that. I also found some hint on the web, saying that some Ford-tools
> need to be used to replace the FEM with a "blank" one.
>
> It is said to be some kind of theft protection.
>
> Falk

That is true. Almost all late model automotive computer modules store the
important basic operating data in non volitle EEPROMs. So it would still
retain its old data even with power disconnected. Tis is why the car
doesn't go compleatly out of operation when the battery dies and has to be
replaced.

The dealer has a computer designed to interface directly with the car's
computer and reset the data in the modules directly. There may be some
interface tools and software available to do it yourself with a laptop but
it could be risky since finding the right data to reset may be a hard
challenge.

Gnack

== 7 of 9 ==
Date: Sat, Jun 5 2010 9:57 am
From: Meat Plow

On Sat, 05 Jun 2010 15:39:49 +0200, Falk Willberg ǝʇoɹʍ:

> Meat Plow schrieb:
>> On Sat, 05 Jun 2010 14:40:46 +0200, Falk Willberg ??o??:
>
> ...
>
>>> I would prefer to get a "FEM" from a junkyard, but the Ford dealer
>>> says, that the module must be "clear", because otherwise the central
>>> computer would refuse to communicate with the module. Any way to
>>> "clear" the module?
>
> ...
>
>> If the module has data stored in volatile RAM then removing the voltage
>> source responsible for holding that data in RAM would flush it.
>
> I was told that disconnecting the power does not do the job.
>
>> You did
>> talk to the person who advised you to clear the module on a way to do
>> it?
>
> I talked to the owner of the car who talked to someone, who told him
> that. I also found some hint on the web, saying that some Ford-tools
> need to be used to replace the FEM with a "blank" one.
>
> It is said to be some kind of theft protection.
>
> Falk

Theft protection for an FEM? That doesn't make sense. Talk to a Ford
dealer who repairs vehicles of that age and they will tell you how to go
about clearing an FEM if they are willing to take the time. I'm sure they
would have the procedure somewhere just in case they needed to clear one.
If it involves a factory proprietary tool you might have difficulty
getting ahold of one.

== 8 of 9 ==
Date: Sat, Jun 5 2010 11:49 am
From: "Charlie"

>
>>> I could re-solder bad junctions, if I had an idea, where to start (I
>>> don't want to do all of them).
>>
>> Do them all.
>
> I even refuse to count them:
> http://falk-willberg.de/Windstar/FEM-Loetseite.jpeg
> http://falk-willberg.de/Windstar/FEM-Bauteile.jpeg
>
> Falk

If you can get to the card as shown in the pictures while the car is
running, take a small piece of wood or plastic where you can trim the end to
look like chisel shape and run it across the solder joints as if you were
painting them and watch for anything strange to happen. Not too hard and try
both directions. It just might catch a poor solder joint.

Charlie

== 9 of 9 ==
Date: Sat, Jun 5 2010 12:27 pm
From: PeterD

On Sat, 5 Jun 2010 12:49:26 +0000 (UTC), Meat Plow <mhywatt@yahoo.com>
wrote:

>On Sat, 05 Jun 2010 14:40:46 +0200, Falk Willberg ??o??:
>
>> A friend's 1999 Ford Windstar started to cause trouble a year ago: The
>> right front turn indicator went on once, then off and a problem with the
>> bulb was displayed, even though it was ok. Connecting front and side
>> indicator lamp "solved" the problem.
>> Later more electric devices, all controlled by this "FEM" went "mad":
>> Interior lights flashed, windscreen wiper turned on and off randomly,
>> theft protection sounded alarm without a cause. Almost all 2pin
>> SMD-Components are slightly misplaced, probably causing bad soldering:
>> (http://www.falk-willberg.de/Windstar/FEM-1.jpeg).
>>
>> While removing the FEM from the car, the interior lights started
>> flashing. It stopped, when I knocked on the Module...
>>
>> I would prefer to get a "FEM" from a junkyard, but the Ford dealer says,
>> that the module must be "clear", because otherwise the central computer
>> would refuse to communicate with the module. Any way to "clear" the
>> module?
>>
>> I could re-solder bad junctions, if I had an idea, where to start (I
>> don't want to do all of them).
>>
>> Grateful for any advice,
>> Falk
>
>If the module has data stored in volatile RAM then removing the voltage
>source responsible for holding that data in RAM would flush it. You did
>talk to the person who advised you to clear the module on a way to do it?

The module will have non-volital information such as the VIN number
and vehicle options stored in it. This information must be updated to
match the vehicle, or the module will refuse to work.

Ford has diagnostic tools that do this. All Ford dealers have these
tools. Despite what the OP says, they (the tools) are not obsolete and
the dealers do have them. Whether the dealer will want to use the
tools is a different question.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: 2000 Lincoln ignition coil problems
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/4681fb0a9d56c3b0?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sat, Jun 5 2010 6:08 am
From: Bruce Esquibel

klem kedidelhopper <captainvideo462009@gmail.com> wrote:
> I realize that there are other auto related groups to post this to but
> with so many talented techs on this one I thought I give this a try as
> well. My son bought a 2000 Lincoln. It has the familiar problem (I'm
> told) of oil leaks around the ignition coils and then subsequent
> failure of some of those coils. He plans to replace all the oil seals
> associated with this but first we cleaned all the coils and I checked
> them on the bench with an ohm meter and they all look the same. I
> realize of course that this is not conclusive though. These read like
> a standard three terminal auto transformer type of device, so can I
> assume that they function basically like a standard ignition coil? Can
> I apply 12V across the primary momentarily to induce the secondary
> field? I have a motor driven interrupter of sorts that would

You kind of are over thinking this.

I have a 97 Lincoln with the coil-on-plugs, with the associated ocassional
oil leak, but you are better off getting a OBD2 tester and let the onboard
computer tell you the bad ones.

It'll spit back the exact "cylinder misfire on ...".

Off hand, failure of them I don't think is related to the oil problem. I've
had two of those coils fail so far and the last one was dry as a bone even
though it was drivers side closest to the firewall and the 1st plug closest
to the radiator was completely submerged, that one was fine.

I just sop out the oil with twisted paper towels every once in a while (2 or
3 years) and just keep on going.

Unless you are topping out the oil every time you fill up, it's probably not
worth bothering to fix, if it can be fixed at all. I've seen guys say they
went through the trouble of replacing the valve cover gaskets with the
problem returning in 6 months or so.

Seems to me like it's a few drops a month which eventually fills up the
chamber the plug sits in, but like I said, once in a while just sop out the
excess with a twisted paper towel and it'll be fine.

The replacement made-in-china coils are only around $30 anyway.

Also if you haven't stumbled into it, try this site:

http://www.markviii.org

Although it's for Mark VIII owners (which was stopped in 1998), there are
quite a few discussions about this matter on there that might be helpful.

-bruce
bje@ripco.com

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Lucas 9EM ignition module.
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/1b14e8b5ffcbab0d?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 5 ==
Date: Sat, Jun 5 2010 6:36 am
From: "ian field"

Since other people have started posting car electronics questions, I thought
I'd strike while the iron is hot so to speak.

Anyone got tech info on the Lucas 9EM ignition module?

Thanks.

== 2 of 5 ==
Date: Sat, Jun 5 2010 12:28 pm
From: PeterD

On Sat, 5 Jun 2010 14:36:08 +0100, "ian field"
<gangprobing.alien@ntlworld.com> wrote:

>Since other people have started posting car electronics questions, I thought
>I'd strike while the iron is hot so to speak.
>
>Anyone got tech info on the Lucas 9EM ignition module?
>
>Thanks.
>

What is it out of, what does it do?

== 3 of 5 ==
Date: Sat, Jun 5 2010 12:44 pm
From: "ian field"

"PeterD" <peter2@hipson.net> wrote in message
news:bb9l06dksa9gmiu63a5cee8h6bna0rvv02@4ax.com...
> On Sat, 5 Jun 2010 14:36:08 +0100, "ian field"
> <gangprobing.alien@ntlworld.com> wrote:
>
>>Since other people have started posting car electronics questions, I
>>thought
>>I'd strike while the iron is hot so to speak.
>>
>>Anyone got tech info on the Lucas 9EM ignition module?
>>
>>Thanks.
>>
>
> What is it out of, what does it do?
>

It was widely used on British cars, during the 80's IIRC.

Its a transistor assisted ignition, but I don't know whether its points or
reluctor.

A couple turned up in a box of auto spares I aquired and it'd be handy to
figure out how to test them..

== 4 of 5 ==
Date: Sat, Jun 5 2010 2:01 pm
From: denali <007denali@comcast.net>

On Jun 5, 12:28 pm, PeterD <pet...@hipson.net> wrote:
> On Sat, 5 Jun 2010 14:36:08 +0100, "ian field"
>
> <gangprobing.al...@ntlworld.com> wrote:
> >Since other people have started posting car electronics questions, I thought
> >I'd strike while the iron is hot so to speak.
>
> >Anyone got tech info on the Lucas 9EM ignition module?
>
> >Thanks.
>
> What is it out of, what does it do?

As with all components manufactured by Lucas, the God of Darkness,
it's purpose is to function for a non-specified length of time and
then fail at the most troublesome moment.

== 5 of 5 ==
Date: Sat, Jun 5 2010 2:21 pm
From: "ian field"

"denali" <007denali@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:56d5f7e9-73b8-4f6b-876f-8f8cfb4d18bc@j12g2000pri.googlegroups.com...
On Jun 5, 12:28 pm, PeterD <pet...@hipson.net> wrote:
> On Sat, 5 Jun 2010 14:36:08 +0100, "ian field"
>
> <gangprobing.al...@ntlworld.com> wrote:
> >Since other people have started posting car electronics questions, I
> >thought
> >I'd strike while the iron is hot so to speak.
>
> >Anyone got tech info on the Lucas 9EM ignition module?
>
> >Thanks.
>
> What is it out of, what does it do?

As with all components manufactured by Lucas, the God of Darkness,
it's purpose is to function for a non-specified length of time and
then fail at the most troublesome moment.

*******

There was much worse than Lucas about - close running for a photo finish are
Wipac, Czeckoslovakian and Italian.

Can't remember what it was I had that was Italian - it fell to bits even
quicker than the CZ250!

Actually - on reflection, nothing is quite as bad as Wipac!

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Replacement parts?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/6898d3e0e37548bd?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Sat, Jun 5 2010 12:29 pm
From: root

I have a Panasonice DMR-EZ28 recorder whose
optical drive failed. You can buy one
new for about $225. I called Panasonic to
check on the price for the drive: $135+$15
shipping=$150. So I went online to find
an alternate source: I found two places.
Parts something or other had one at $340
and MCM had one at $450. I used to buy
from MCM when VCRs were worth repairing.
Now?

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Sat, Jun 5 2010 4:15 pm
From: "circuit"

Pretty common problem...manufacturers leave stuff on the shelf and never
reduce costs of spare parts even if you can purchase a new unit with more
features for less cost of the spare part. The only company I ever saw who
did differently was SONY on a 27 Inch trinitron CRT (Circa 1982) - which
they reduced the cost down to $40.00 Retail plus shipping. I dont know if
that was an experiment they discontinued, or if they knew those CRT's were
problematic with a short lifespan. If you have a part number, post it here.
You can also try www.parts-link.com , posting it as a wanted part.

"root" <NoEMail@home.org> wrote in message
news:hue8il$dth$1@news.albasani.net...
>I have a Panasonice DMR-EZ28 recorder whose
> optical drive failed. You can buy one
> new for about $225. I called Panasonic to
> check on the price for the drive: $135+$15
> shipping=$150. So I went online to find
> an alternate source: I found two places.
> Parts something or other had one at $340
> and MCM had one at $450. I used to buy
> from MCM when VCRs were worth repairing.
> Now?
>

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