sci.electronics.repair - 25 new messages in 10 topics - digest

sci.electronics.repair
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair?hl=en

sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Today's topics:

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Adcom GTP-450 turns itself off or the cpu locks up.
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/4730d8bb40f12963?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Fri, Jun 25 2010 10:40 pm
From: Allyn Oldfield

On Jun 15, 5:50 am, Chuck <chu...@deja.net> wrote:
> On Mon, 07 Jun 2010 16:42:13 -0500, Chuck <chu...@deja.net> wrote:
> >Hello.
>
> >I used to work for an Adcom warranty station and remember this was a
> >common problem but I can't recall what the cure is. If anyone has a
> >solution I'd really appreciate it. Thanks. Chuck
>
> The problem turned out to be conductive glue on the ribbon cable from
> the on-standby switch to the upc board. It wasn't visible from the
> top of the unit. I found a pin out of the upc and noticed unusual
> activity on the key lines. This activity ceased and the unit
> functioned properly when the cable from the switch was detached at the
> upc board. When I removed the switch from the circuit board, I
> noticed a wisp of conductive glue at the cable end. Once the glue was
> removed, the unit functioned normally. Chuck

Thanks for posting this thread- I just fixed a similar problem with my
adcom GTP-450, I initially thought power supply caps, but after
replacing several of the smaller caps and all the regulator output
caps I googled and found this. Eventually it turned out to be the
power switch itself in my case. A momentary power switch from an old
ATX computer case had the correct stem for the button, and the wires
from the ATX switch replace the factory ribbon cable. I unsoldered the
old switch, and held the new switch in place with some epoxy resin and
a couple of screws- good as new!

Cheers
Allyn

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Revox B225 Service/User Info
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/a6256588634fdd75?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Sat, Jun 26 2010 3:49 am
From: Richard Smith

Hi,

I have just acquired a Revox B225 CD player in need of repair.
I have found what appears to be the only copy of a service manual on
the 'web - does anyone know of another source?
Also, I could use a User Manual for this beast, does anyone have an
electronic copy?

TIA

Richard

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Sat, Jun 26 2010 3:57 am
From: Richard Smith

On 2010-06-26 11:49:09 +0100, Richard Smith <richard.smith@mewgull.com> said:

> Hi,
>
> I have just acquired a Revox B225 CD player in need of repair.
> I have found what appears to be the only copy of a service manual on
> the 'web - does anyone know of another source?
> Also, I could use a User Manual for this beast, does anyone have an
> electronic copy?

Okay, within milliseconds of posting that one, I found both manuals on-line at:

ftp://ftp.studer.ch/Public/Products/Revox/Revox_B225/

Richard

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Slightly OT - Apple OS4 on 2G Touch ...
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/7e38c57ec16b1c11?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 5 ==
Date: Sat, Jun 26 2010 4:44 am
From: "Arfa Daily"

"Jeff Liebermann" <jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote in message
news:lnma26dmqrgiadt84614qsa9emqj636fo9@4ax.com...
> On Fri, 25 Jun 2010 09:21:15 +0100, "Arfa Daily"
> <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote:
>
>>Not jailbroken. Just off-the-shelf vanilla.
>
> So much for that theory.
>
>>I don't knowingly have huge amounts - if indeed any - Google Apps on it.
>>Although thinking about it, I do have Google Earth, but it hasn't been
>>opened since the update.
>
> Google Earth should not cause problems. It's only Google Mail and
> possibly Calendar that might need to sync huge amounts of data.
>
>>For the moment, I'm going to leave the wifi and location services switched
>>off, and see what happens. If that is ok, then I will put the wifi back
>>on,
>>and see how it goes then, and report back.
>
> iPhone and iPod touch: Understanding Location Services
> http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1975
>
> The iPod Touch does NOT have GPS or 3G data. However, it can use
> Wi-Fi to obtain locations. I usually leave location services off on
> mine to save electrons. I just turned it on, fired up Google Maps
> while indoors, and it found me within about 300ft. Nice. However,
> there's no additional drain other than Wi-Fi. When the iPod Touch
> goes to snooze, the Wi-Fi goes into standby. I don't think this is
> the source of your mystery discharge.
>
>
>
> --
> # Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D Santa Cruz CA 95060

Agreed, the wifi *should* go to standby when the iPod sleeps, and I'm sure
that it did with the previous version of software that was on the device,
but I'm not yet convinced that it is doing so correctly, with iOS 4, so at
the moment, I'm still checking battery drain with various settings on or
off, and the jury is still out on this one ...

Arfa

== 2 of 5 ==
Date: Sat, Jun 26 2010 4:48 am
From: "Arfa Daily"

"Jeff Liebermann" <jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote in message
news:41oa26p5tcar7cqqnpma2hsijuapth6bc6@4ax.com...
> On Fri, 25 Jun 2010 18:51:35 -0700, Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>
> wrote:
>
>>iPhone and iPod touch: Understanding Location Services
>>http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1975
>
> Incidentally, the iPhone and iPod Touch Wi-Fi based location services
> uses Skyhook:
> <http://www.skyhookwireless.com>
> which uses a database of known wi-fi access points. It found my
> office location because I had registered my access point long ago.
>
>
> --
> # Jeff Liebermann 150 Felker St #D Santa Cruz CA 95060

I think you'll find that Google know about an awful lot more wireless access
points, than just ones that have been registered. There's recently been a
big privacy hoo-hah over here regarding the fact that when Google drove
their camcars round every street in the country, as well as taking pictures,
they also continuously sniffed wireless access points, and logged their
locations, and every bit of data they could gather from them.

Big Brother cometh, or what ...

Arfa

== 3 of 5 ==
Date: Sat, Jun 26 2010 9:02 am
From: Meat Plow

On Sat, 26 Jun 2010 01:16:20 +0100, Arfa Daily ǝʇoɹʍ:

> <snip>
>
>> I had a similar situation with my Blackberry. When they updated the OS
>> the bluetooth suddenly ate the battery in about 10 hours. Before the
>> phone could go for a week on standby. So I ended up disabling the BT
>> until needed. About 3 months passed and there was a software update
>> that addressed the BT issue and it worked. I was screwing around with
>> my sister's ITouch yesterday. Nice little unit for sure. But now I own
>> a Dell Mini and no longer desire an ITouch for myself. I wouldn't have
>> been happy with something that was only half a computer anyway.
>
> Well, I reckon that I've just about got it pinned down now. Unit idled
> asleep all day, and battery went down about 2% or so, so that was back
> to normal. So this evening, I turned the wifi back on, and connected to
> the TV news site that I use, then exited that app, connected to the
> iTunes store and had a little browse, then exited that app. I then left
> the unit for another couple of hours, and rechecked. The battery was
> just as I had left it, so the wifi had correctly gone back to sleep,
> when the online apps were exited. A while ago, I started up The Weather
> Channel desktop app, which I suspect is at the bottom of the trouble,
> and accessed some data. Now this app asks for permission to determine
> your location, via the 'net, by making use of the router data that
> Google have stolen from you, as they drove past your house with their
> camcars.. I usually just let the app go ahead and do this. Tonight, it
> had a bit of a cry that it couldn't ask me, because "Location Services"
> were turned off on the iPod. Having looked at a weather forecast, I
> exited the app, and again, all seems to be well.
>
> So, I'm now pretty sure that the issue is to do with this location
> determining malarky. If for whatever reason, it doesn't manage to
> complete the operation, it looks as though it keeps trying, which would
> be fair enough whilst the app is running. To be honest, I don't know if
> this has ever worked, because I don't actually know why the app needs to
> know where I am. Assuming that it doesn't complete, and keeps trying, it
> looks as though with iOS 4, the operation doesn't get cancelled when you
> exit the app, so the wifi transmitter stays active, rinsing your battery
> in a few hours. Presumably, this is an oversight / bug in iOS 4 that the
> previous version didn't have. I can't see any reason for the wifi
> transmitter staying active after an app has been dumped. As soon as you
> exit, any wifi activity associated with the app, should be immediately
> tidied up, and dropped.
>
> I think that for the moment, I'm just going to keep location services
> shut off, and if I load up any apps that definitely need it, decide on a
> per use basis whether to re-enable it.
>

Looks as you've isolated it. I disable BT on my phones unless needed.
Makes a significant enough impact on idle time to do so. Disabling the
wifi on my Dell Mini gives me roughly 30% more battery life. I often take
it with me when I go looking for things to photograph. Pull the SDHC card
from the camera and insert into the Mini and review them. Don't need
radios rinsing the battery when I'm out in the middle of nowhere. And I
often ride the Harley when I go nature photogging :) No cig lighter power
supply on it.

== 4 of 5 ==
Date: Sat, Jun 26 2010 5:31 pm
From: "Arfa Daily"

>
> Looks as you've isolated it. I disable BT on my phones unless needed.
> Makes a significant enough impact on idle time to do so. Disabling the
> wifi on my Dell Mini gives me roughly 30% more battery life. I often take
> it with me when I go looking for things to photograph. Pull the SDHC card
> from the camera and insert into the Mini and review them. Don't need
> radios rinsing the battery when I'm out in the middle of nowhere. And I
> often ride the Harley when I go nature photogging :) No cig lighter power
> supply on it.
>

I've definitely isolated it now. It wasn't the "Location Services", it was
"Notifications" as someone else suggested it might be. I now have wifi set
back "ON" and location services set back "ON", and everything is just fine.
Battery life is absolutely normal. As soon as you switch "Notifications"
back on, the battery rinsing starts. I haven't a clue what it is for, and
I'm sure I don't remember seeing it being on, or even actually there ?? in
the previous version of OS that was installed before the iOS 4 upgrade.
Anyway there is no problem with operation or battery with it off, so off it
will stay ... :-)

Arfa

== 5 of 5 ==
Date: Sat, Jun 26 2010 7:54 pm
From: Jeff Liebermann

On Sun, 27 Jun 2010 01:31:41 +0100, "Arfa Daily"
<arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote:

>I've definitely isolated it now. It wasn't the "Location Services", it was
>"Notifications" as someone else suggested it might be. I now have wifi set
>back "ON" and location services set back "ON", and everything is just fine.
>Battery life is absolutely normal. As soon as you switch "Notifications"
>back on, the battery rinsing starts. I haven't a clue what it is for, and
>I'm sure I don't remember seeing it being on, or even actually there ?? in
>the previous version of OS that was installed before the iOS 4 upgrade.
>Anyway there is no problem with operation or battery with it off, so off it
>will stay ... :-)

<http://support.apple.com/kb/HT3576>
Push Notifications are messages from applications that go merrily out
to the internet to see if there's anything worth bugging you about.
The notifications can appear BEFORE you smear the screen with "slide
to unlock". Under Nofifications, I have eTrade and eBay notifications
enabled on mine. I get plenty of notifications from both of these
apps.

However, it doesn't kill my battery. I leave 15 minute Notifications
on continuously, and my battery level is roughly where I left it the
previous night. No unusual drain from Notifications that I can see
and I have a rather old battery.

If you don't see any applications listed under Notifications, then
turn it off. You don't need it. If you do want the listed apps to
bug you when appropriate, leave it on.

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Vertical Lines
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/7824ada624c770ad?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 5 ==
Date: Sat, Jun 26 2010 5:18 am
From: "DB"

"Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:Y_SdnWhPUqfYzLjRnZ2dnUVZ_gadnZ2d@earthlink.com...
>
> DB wrote:
>>
>> "Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote in message
>> news:K6mdnXfhFpZeH77RnZ2dnUVZ_vqdnZ2d@earthlink.com...
>> >
>> > DB wrote:
>> >>
>> >> That's ok, Michael. Stefan knows what I'm talking about, and he's
>> >> knows
>> >> what he's talking about too.
>> >
>> >
>> > Sure he does. You sure don't.
>> >
>>
>> That's why I'm posting here, to get helpful information. Why are you
>> posting here? To shoot more negative bile out of your big mouth. Just
>> another jerk who's a really big man (on line).
>
>
> Whatever you want to think. In two months, I will have worked 45
> years in electronics manufacturing and repair. You will still be
> bitter, and asking vague questions.
>
>
That's funny. I though you were some young punk who hadn't learned any life
lessons yet, or who didn't know the value of being generally decent. Good
luck.

Some people die at 25 and aren't buried until 75. - Benjamin Franklin

== 2 of 5 ==
Date: Sat, Jun 26 2010 9:06 am
From: Meat Plow

On Fri, 25 Jun 2010 20:47:15 -0400, DB ǝʇoɹʍ:

> "Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote in message
> news:K6mdnXfhFpZeH77RnZ2dnUVZ_vqdnZ2d@earthlink.com...
>>
>> DB wrote:
>>>
>>> That's ok, Michael. Stefan knows what I'm talking about, and he's
>>> knows what he's talking about too.
>>
>>
>> Sure he does. You sure don't.
>>
>>
>
>
> That's why I'm posting here, to get helpful information. Why are you
> posting here? To shoot more negative bile out of your big mouth. Just
> another jerk who's a really big man (on line).

Well I guess this seals your fate as far as getting much in the way of
anything but ridicule from the regs here. Better try a repair group where
you haven't insulted everyone's intelligence.

== 3 of 5 ==
Date: Sat, Jun 26 2010 9:21 am
From: "DB"

"Meat Plow" <mhywatt@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:pan.2010.06.26.16.07.06@gmail.com...
> On Fri, 25 Jun 2010 20:47:15 -0400, DB ??o??:
>
>> "Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote in message
>> news:K6mdnXfhFpZeH77RnZ2dnUVZ_vqdnZ2d@earthlink.com...
>>>
>>> DB wrote:
>>>>
>>>> That's ok, Michael. Stefan knows what I'm talking about, and he's
>>>> knows what he's talking about too.
>>>
>>>
>>> Sure he does. You sure don't.
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>> That's why I'm posting here, to get helpful information. Why are you
>> posting here? To shoot more negative bile out of your big mouth. Just
>> another jerk who's a really big man (on line).
>
> <sounds of WW2 B52 shot down in flames plummeting to earth>
>
> Well I guess this seals your fate as far as getting much in the way of
> anything but ridicule from the regs here. Better try a repair group where
> you haven't insulted everyone's intelligence.

everyone?

== 4 of 5 ==
Date: Sat, Jun 26 2010 9:38 am
From: Sjouke Burry

DB wrote:
> "Meat Plow" <mhywatt@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:pan.2010.06.26.16.07.06@gmail.com...
>> On Fri, 25 Jun 2010 20:47:15 -0400, DB ??o??:
>>
>>> "Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote in message
>>> news:K6mdnXfhFpZeH77RnZ2dnUVZ_vqdnZ2d@earthlink.com...
>>>> DB wrote:
>>>>> That's ok, Michael. Stefan knows what I'm talking about, and he's
>>>>> knows what he's talking about too.
>>>>
>>>> Sure he does. You sure don't.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>> That's why I'm posting here, to get helpful information. Why are you
>>> posting here? To shoot more negative bile out of your big mouth. Just
>>> another jerk who's a really big man (on line).
>> <sounds of WW2 B52 shot down in flames plummeting to earth>
>>
>> Well I guess this seals your fate as far as getting much in the way of
>> anything but ridicule from the regs here. Better try a repair group where
>> you haven't insulted everyone's intelligence.
>
>
> everyone?
>
>
No, the rest will ingnore the insults from a child or troll.

== 5 of 5 ==
Date: Sat, Jun 26 2010 10:25 am
From: Meat Plow

On Sat, 26 Jun 2010 12:21:02 -0400, DB ǝʇoɹʍ:

> "Meat Plow" <mhywatt@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:pan.2010.06.26.16.07.06@gmail.com...
>> On Fri, 25 Jun 2010 20:47:15 -0400, DB ??o??:
>>
>>> "Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote in message
>>> news:K6mdnXfhFpZeH77RnZ2dnUVZ_vqdnZ2d@earthlink.com...
>>>>
>>>> DB wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>> That's ok, Michael. Stefan knows what I'm talking about, and he's
>>>>> knows what he's talking about too.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Sure he does. You sure don't.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>> That's why I'm posting here, to get helpful information. Why are you
>>> posting here? To shoot more negative bile out of your big mouth.
>>> Just another jerk who's a really big man (on line).
>>
>> <sounds of WW2 B52 shot down in flames plummeting to earth>
>>
>> Well I guess this seals your fate as far as getting much in the way of
>> anything but ridicule from the regs here. Better try a repair group
>> where you haven't insulted everyone's intelligence.
>
>
> everyone?

I think that's a fair estimate. Although you still might someone who
feels sorry for you or hasn't read your oblique and ambiguous posts.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: DATAMAN s4 eprom programmer , looking for GAL adaptor...
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/2b308026e5f71b8d?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sat, Jun 26 2010 6:22 am
From: Bruce Esquibel

WangoTango <Asgard24@mindspring.com> wrote:

> I just dropped them a line and just asked.
> They don't have an official S4 list, but they do have some of their
> adapter pin outs in the XP/UXP download directory.

> http://www.dataman.com/Pdf/Dataman48Adaptors.pdf

> All you need to so is look up what adapter you need for the S4 and see
> if that part number is listed in the adaptor list PDF. If it one of the
> UNIV (universal) part numbers then it will work on the S4 as well as the
> other programmers.

I dunno, maybe I'm confused.

That pdf is just for the not-common pin-to-pin compatability for prom/eprom
stuff, right?

The OP was asking about the gal/pal programming, which I think with the S4
can only be done with the $300 adapter.

The adapter and how to build it isn't in that pdf or anywhere else on the
site.

I found my S4 but the box of adapter modules is mia, I don't think I ever
ordered the gal/pal one but there was another, I think for 68 pin MOT
something or others and it was similar, wasn't just a pin adapter but like a
whole new programmer built to fit into the ZIF socket on the S4.

Seems like those would be proprietary unless they decided to public domain
the whole thing.

-bruce
bje@ripco.com

==============================================================================
TOPIC: can i remove turns from shaded pole motor
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/3a92407f2d29616c?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 6 ==
Date: Sat, Jun 26 2010 1:45 pm
From: "Trevor Wilson"

"Steve Sousa" <etsteve@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:4c22e757$0$77541$892e0abb@auth.newsreader.octanews.com...
> Hello:
>
> I live in a 230V area but need to use a 120V fan to repair an amplifier.
> I can only get 230V fan motors here, so i was wondering if i can simply
> remove turns from a 230v shaded pole motor to make it into a 120v one?
>

**That would be the insane solution. And one which won't work. You don't say
where you are, but obtaining 120VAC fans is simply not that difficult,
regardless of where you are. Alternatively, you could source a suitable DC
fan (say: 48 Volts) and use that, connected to a DC supply line within the
amp.

--
Trevor Wilson
www.rageaudio.com.au

== 2 of 6 ==
Date: Sat, Jun 26 2010 5:37 pm
From: Jamie

Trevor Wilson wrote:

> "Steve Sousa" <etsteve@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:4c22e757$0$77541$892e0abb@auth.newsreader.octanews.com...
>
>>Hello:
>>
>>I live in a 230V area but need to use a 120V fan to repair an amplifier.
>>I can only get 230V fan motors here, so i was wondering if i can simply
>>remove turns from a 230v shaded pole motor to make it into a 120v one?
>>
>
>
> **That would be the insane solution. And one which won't work. You don't say
> where you are, but obtaining 120VAC fans is simply not that difficult,
> regardless of where you are. Alternatively, you could source a suitable DC
> fan (say: 48 Volts) and use that, connected to a DC supply line within the
> amp.
>
>
How about using a 1:1 small xformer and doing series boost on the
secondary with the primary connected to the 120 side.. This way, a
240 volt fan can be used in a 120 volt area..

etc..
Jamie.

== 3 of 6 ==
Date: Sat, Jun 26 2010 7:09 pm
From: "Steve Sousa"

"Sylvia Else" <sylvia@not.here.invalid> wrote in message
news:88ik8jFsbvU1@mid.individual.net...
> On 25/06/2010 10:37 AM, PeterD wrote:
>> On Thu, 24 Jun 2010 23:04:00 +1000, Sylvia Else
>> <sylvia@not.here.invalid> wrote:
>>
>>> On 24/06/2010 9:46 PM, PeterD wrote:
>>>> On Thu, 24 Jun 2010 15:29:35 +1000, Sylvia Else
>>>> <sylvia@not.here.invalid> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> On 24/06/2010 3:04 PM, Steve Sousa wrote:
>>>>>> Hello:
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I live in a 230V area but need to use a 120V fan to repair an
>>>>>> amplifier.
>>>>>> I can only get 230V fan motors here, so i was wondering if i can
>>>>>> simply
>>>>>> remove turns from a 230v shaded pole motor to make it into a 120v
>>>>>> one?
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Thank you.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> No. It's highly unlikely that the wire used in the motor is more than
>>>>> 100% overspecified, so if you remove turns from it to make it run at
>>>>> the
>>>>> same speed on 120v, it will overheat, because the current will
>>>>> approximately double.
>>>>>
>>>>> Sylvia.
>>>>
>>>> There is one high labor alternative that might work...
>>>>
>>>> Take the current wire on the motor, and find the center, break it at
>>>> that point, so you have two 120 volt windings. Put in parallel for 120
>>>> volts, and series for 240 volts.
>>>>
>>>> But, IMHO, hardly worth the effort, but technically feasible.
>>>
>>> I'm not sure it's advisable either. There's every chance the enamel will
>>> be damaged in the process. If he's lucky, any short will appear as soon
>>> as he turns it on. If he's unlucky, it will occur when he's not looking.
>>>
>>> Sylvia.
>>
>> Advisable, probably not, but a theoritical solution, however!<bg>
>
> That I agree with.
>
> Sylvia.

Hello:

Thanks you for the reply. I wasn't sure about the current doubling,
but i guess is just like a transformer.

I'll just add a relay and be done with it.

Best regards

== 4 of 6 ==
Date: Sat, Jun 26 2010 7:13 pm
From: "Steve Sousa"

"Smitty Two" <prestwhich@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:prestwhich-3EE8FE.04594124062010@newsfarm.iad.highwinds-media.com...
> In article <4c22e757$0$77541$892e0abb@auth.newsreader.octanews.com>,
> "Steve Sousa" <etsteve@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>> Hello:
>>
>> I live in a 230V area but need to use a 120V fan to repair an amplifier.
>> I can only get 230V fan motors here, so i was wondering if i can simply
>> remove turns from a 230v shaded pole motor to make it into a 120v one?
>>
>> Thank you.
>>
>>
>
> Hmm, I always thought you could get anything on the planet to any other
> place on the planet. How could you not be able to get a 120V fan?

Hello:

The problem is cost. The OEM doesn't have it, people who have it are selling
for 130$ +, that's too much for the original. Customs takes a lot of time
"inspecting" and figuring how much to charge (about 30% on top of that).

Best Regards

== 5 of 6 ==
Date: Sat, Jun 26 2010 7:17 pm
From: "Steve Sousa"

"Trevor Wilson" <trevor@rageaudio.com.au> wrote in message
news:88n79fF6hrU1@mid.individual.net...
>
> "Steve Sousa" <etsteve@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:4c22e757$0$77541$892e0abb@auth.newsreader.octanews.com...
>> Hello:
>>
>> I live in a 230V area but need to use a 120V fan to repair an amplifier.
>> I can only get 230V fan motors here, so i was wondering if i can simply
>> remove turns from a 230v shaded pole motor to make it into a 120v one?
>>
>
> **That would be the insane solution. And one which won't work. You don't
> say where you are, but obtaining 120VAC fans is simply not that difficult,
> regardless of where you are. Alternatively, you could source a suitable DC
> fan (say: 48 Volts) and use that, connected to a DC supply line within the
> amp.
>

Hello:

I could eventually get a 120V fan for a much higher cost, but the original
was probably disposed of because of that, i'm just going to add a relay,
and put a 230v fan with the minimum amount of modification, that way is
future proof.

Thank you all for your help

Best regards

Steve Sousa

== 6 of 6 ==
Date: Sat, Jun 26 2010 7:28 pm
From: "Phil Allison"

"Steve Sousa"

>
> The problem is cost. The OEM doesn't have it, people who have it are
> selling
> for 130$ +, that's too much for the original. Customs takes a lot of time
> "inspecting" and figuring how much to charge (about 30% on top of that).

** What electronics backwater are you living in ??

Here in Sydney, one can get a 115 VAC, 120 mm fan from spare parts dealer
( WES Components) for $18.75.

.... Phil

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TOPIC: Teac AG-790 has me stumped...
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/19f1f1c9d95691fb?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Sat, Jun 26 2010 5:57 pm
From: "William R. Walsh"

I'm about to give up...

I received a Teac AG-790 stereo receiver with burn damage to the PCB
underneath resistors 7R41, 7R47, 7R?? (unmarked, next to 7R47) and 7R48. I
repaired all of this damage, cleaned up the carbon that had been left behind
and soldered to the nearest remaining good portion of the board.

Up to this point, the receiver did what it has done since I got it. It
played through the right channel only.

I kept on looking and found a capacitor at location 7C27 (220uF, 16V) that
had blown out the rubber plug at the bottom. So I replaced that. Now nothing
works. I know the new cap to be good. The unit will power up just as it
always has, there are no blown fuses and my repair job seems to be
bulletproof (and correct, per the schematic in the service manual). The
audio is gone, replaced only by a faint humming on speakers and headphones
alike, in the right channel. Turning the volume dial does not change this.
There is still nothing from the left channel. The unit is not in protection
and nothing is getting hot, burning up or worse.

In addition, the display on the front of the unit will now indicate "E0" (or
maybe it's an O...no way to tell). This is not mentioned in the service
manual, nor did I find anything in a web search. Operations from the front
panel remain possible.

I'm beginning to think that it may be too far gone to fix. Anyone out there
with an eleventh hour idea?

William

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Sat, Jun 26 2010 6:14 pm
From: Jamie

William R. Walsh wrote:

> I'm about to give up...
>
> I received a Teac AG-790 stereo receiver with burn damage to the PCB
> underneath resistors 7R41, 7R47, 7R?? (unmarked, next to 7R47) and 7R48. I
> repaired all of this damage, cleaned up the carbon that had been left behind
> and soldered to the nearest remaining good portion of the board.
>
> Up to this point, the receiver did what it has done since I got it. It
> played through the right channel only.
>
> I kept on looking and found a capacitor at location 7C27 (220uF, 16V) that
> had blown out the rubber plug at the bottom. So I replaced that. Now nothing
> works. I know the new cap to be good. The unit will power up just as it
> always has, there are no blown fuses and my repair job seems to be
> bulletproof (and correct, per the schematic in the service manual). The
> audio is gone, replaced only by a faint humming on speakers and headphones
> alike, in the right channel. Turning the volume dial does not change this.
> There is still nothing from the left channel. The unit is not in protection
> and nothing is getting hot, burning up or worse.
>
> In addition, the display on the front of the unit will now indicate "E0" (or
> maybe it's an O...no way to tell). This is not mentioned in the service
> manual, nor did I find anything in a web search. Operations from the front
> panel remain possible.
>
> I'm beginning to think that it may be too far gone to fix. Anyone out there
> with an eleventh hour idea?
>
> William
>
>
did you put the new cap in backwards?

Also, is it possible that maybe the protection circuit is now
working since you put the cap in, which is why you are now
getting the E0 error. This could be caused by yet, a problem that
remains in the bad channel..

Assuming this is like most protection output circuits, you may
want to test the output of the bad channel before the relay circuit
that joins the speakers. .YOu could have a channel that is outputting
DC above the safe point for the initial on cycle. Which would lead
to say that you still have a problem, ofcourse!

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Fuse or fusible resistor?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/2017b4927dae47ef?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sat, Jun 26 2010 9:46 pm
From: DaveC

Used in the battery (-) lead of a handheld scope. Schematics unpublished.

Physically similar to a 1/4 W resistor, color light green. Marked "IE7A" or
"1E7A".

Google returns slim results, none promising.

What type is this?

Thanks,
Dave

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