sci.electronics.repair - 25 new messages in 10 topics - digest

sci.electronics.repair
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Today's topics:

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TOPIC: Old garage light fixture with no sign of existing switch
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/25109a2423d6f22a?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 5 ==
Date: Sat, Jul 3 2010 2:07 am
From: "William Sommerwerck"

> But the outside spotlight high above the big "garage door"
> hasn't worked in decades and nobody knows where the
> switch is supposed to be. I opened the wiring box (shown
> closed in that photo) and couldn't find any sign of a pull-chain
> switch. The wires are so jammed in that it was hard to trace
> them back outside the box. Didn't want to risk pulling on
> them, as they seem brittle.

My intuition is that the switch is in (or at) the house. You would want to
turn on the light before walking out of the house, and turn it off only
after you got back in.

== 2 of 5 ==
Date: Sat, Jul 3 2010 3:27 am
From: "Michael A. Terrell"

Jim wrote:
>
> See this photo for reference: http://www.badongo.com/pic/9827256
>
> The white-sheated wire goes to the dead fixture and terminates inside its
> box.
>
> Can anyone take a guess as to where the on/off switch would be located for
> this old garage light fixture? It's in a California house built in the
> early 1950s. The previous owners never got the fixture to work, and when it
> last worked is a mystery.
>
> The main ceiling bulb inside the garage works fine, along with a light
> outside above the man-door (one of two; the other leads to the kitchen).
> Both of those fixtures are operated with wall switches next to their
> respective doors.
>
> But the outside spotlight high above the big "garage door" hasn't worked in
> decades and nobody knows where the switch is supposed to be. I opened the
> wiring box (shown closed in that photo) and couldn't find any sign of a
> pull-chain switch. The wires are so jammed in that it was hard to trace
> them back outside the box. Didn't want to risk pulling on them, as they
> seem brittle.
>
> This may be hard to fugure out online, but if anyone knows where a 1950s
> garage switch might TYPICALLY be located, please advise. I've looked all
> over inside the garage and may have to get the contractor's wiring diagram
> somehow.

What makes you think the contractor made any notes, let alone a
wiring diagram? You've watched too many episodes of Mission:
Impossible.

--
Anyone wanting to run for any political office in the US should have to
have a DD214, and a honorable discharge.

== 3 of 5 ==
Date: Sat, Jul 3 2010 6:16 am
From: Meat Plow

On Fri, 02 Jul 2010 21:02:28 -0500, Jim ǝʇoɹʍ:

> See this photo for reference: http://www.badongo.com/pic/9827256
>
> The white-sheated wire goes to the dead fixture and terminates inside
> its box.
>
> Can anyone take a guess as to where the on/off switch would be located
> for this old garage light fixture? It's in a California house built in
> the early 1950s. The previous owners never got the fixture to work, and
> when it last worked is a mystery.
>
> The main ceiling bulb inside the garage works fine, along with a light
> outside above the man-door (one of two; the other leads to the kitchen).
> Both of those fixtures are operated with wall switches next to their
> respective doors.
>
> But the outside spotlight high above the big "garage door" hasn't worked
> in decades and nobody knows where the switch is supposed to be. I opened
> the wiring box (shown closed in that photo) and couldn't find any sign
> of a pull-chain switch. The wires are so jammed in that it was hard to
> trace them back outside the box. Didn't want to risk pulling on them, as
> they seem brittle.
>
> This may be hard to fugure out online, but if anyone knows where a 1950s
> garage switch might TYPICALLY be located, please advise. I've looked all
> over inside the garage and may have to get the contractor's wiring
> diagram somehow.
>
> Thanks. Jim

I have a detached garage and the light switch is in the hallway leading
to the basement near the sides entrance of the house where the garage is
located.

== 4 of 5 ==
Date: Sat, Jul 3 2010 11:58 am
From: Bob AZ

> This may be hard to fugure out online, but if anyone knows where a 1950s
> garage switch might TYPICALLY be located, please advise. I've looked all
> over inside the garage and may have to get the contractor's wiring diagram
> somehow.
>
> Thanks. Jim

Jim
The only sure way is to be sure the power is off and then take it all
apart and put it back together again. Be prepared to lose and replace
some cable/wire.

My best guess is that the problem is in the box feeding the fixture in
question. Also do yourself a favor and replace the pictured box with a
bigger one. At least twice the size. Home depot will have everything.

Forget the contractor. There probably never was a wiring diagram and
all involved are dead.

Bob AZ

== 5 of 5 ==
Date: Sat, Jul 3 2010 3:35 pm
From: "William R. Walsh"

Hi!

> Can anyone take a guess as to where the on/off switch would be located for
> this old garage light fixture?

My guess is that it would be switched with one of the other fixtures you
mentioned...and that there is another problem, possibly with the fixture
that does not work. Given that it seems to be an outdoor fixture, this seems
very plausible.

While you might find building plans, I'd say that it is fairly unlikely to
expect that you will find wiring plans beyond what (if anything) is printed
inside the fuse or circuit breaker box.

William

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TOPIC: What is this garage wall fixture? (see photo)
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/7d38d91448025a81?hl=en
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== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sat, Jul 3 2010 3:24 am
From: "Michael A. Terrell"

Robert Macy wrote:
>
> That transformer may have been the power to ring the maid's bell.

That would require Viagra. ;-)

--
Anyone wanting to run for any political office in the US should have to
have a DD214, and a honorable discharge.

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TOPIC: Cleaning Electronics Devices
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/5336e04e2afad1c5?hl=en
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== 1 of 6 ==
Date: Sat, Jul 3 2010 5:38 am
From: Don

I thought I'd post this, as it is an example of a "worst-case
scenario" situation. A few months ago I acquired a rather high-end
Mitsubishi VHS VCR from eBay for not much money. The seller said the
VCR was in excellent condition, and very clean. I'm sure everyone has
heard this before... LOL. To make a long story short, when I received
the VCR it was an absolute disaster from a aesthetic and cleanliness
point-of-view. Obviously, the original owner was a heavy smoker, and
the VCR absolutely reeked of smoke, and nicotine stains were the worst
I've ever seen inside and out the unit. To put it mildly, it was
horrible, and I almost felt I needed to put on rubber gloves just to
touch it!

Strangely, it worked fine, but otherwise it was a real mess. So, I
decided to disassemble it and clean it manually. It didn't take long
to realize that this was hopeless. Thus, I did the
unthinkable,especially for a VCR. Once disassembled, I put each board
and the chassis/transport into the dishwasher taking care to cover and
protect the video head drum. No dish washing detergent, just the
water. After a full wash, rinse, and dry cycle, I removed it, and
gently dried it with compressed air, and then placed it into a 100
degree oven for a short time.

After 3 months, the VCR is still working fine, and it looks (and
smells) like new. Realistically, I had nothing to lose by trying this
worst-case cleaning method, but it worked. It sounds like this would
be an absolute disaster for a VCR, and I must admit, I am surprised
that it was successful.

I have used this method for cleaning other types of electronics in the
past, but not a VCR.

== 2 of 6 ==
Date: Sat, Jul 3 2010 6:09 am
From: "N_Cook"

Don <w9cw@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:f2e92c69-535a-4a2b-8abe-0e116d467fe1@z10g2000yqb.googlegroups.com...
> I thought I'd post this, as it is an example of a "worst-case
> scenario" situation. A few months ago I acquired a rather high-end
> Mitsubishi VHS VCR from eBay for not much money. The seller said the
> VCR was in excellent condition, and very clean. I'm sure everyone has
> heard this before... LOL. To make a long story short, when I received
> the VCR it was an absolute disaster from a aesthetic and cleanliness
> point-of-view. Obviously, the original owner was a heavy smoker, and
> the VCR absolutely reeked of smoke, and nicotine stains were the worst
> I've ever seen inside and out the unit. To put it mildly, it was
> horrible, and I almost felt I needed to put on rubber gloves just to
> touch it!
>
> Strangely, it worked fine, but otherwise it was a real mess. So, I
> decided to disassemble it and clean it manually. It didn't take long
> to realize that this was hopeless. Thus, I did the
> unthinkable,especially for a VCR. Once disassembled, I put each board
> and the chassis/transport into the dishwasher taking care to cover and
> protect the video head drum. No dish washing detergent, just the
> water. After a full wash, rinse, and dry cycle, I removed it, and
> gently dried it with compressed air, and then placed it into a 100
> degree oven for a short time.
>
> After 3 months, the VCR is still working fine, and it looks (and
> smells) like new. Realistically, I had nothing to lose by trying this
> worst-case cleaning method, but it worked. It sounds like this would
> be an absolute disaster for a VCR, and I must admit, I am surprised
> that it was successful.
>
> I have used this method for cleaning other types of electronics in the
> past, but not a VCR.

What is the largest item w x h x d you can put , entire, into a domestic
dishwasher ?is dismantling racks possible in some models.?

With tobacco staining I just use oven cleaner (after test patches) on the
outside and drops of fragrent oil on whatever gets warm on the inside. Last
weeks treat for me was an amp a dog had pissed in the back of - frangipan
oil went in that one after localised cleaning.

== 3 of 6 ==
Date: Sat, Jul 3 2010 6:25 am
From: Meat Plow

On Sat, 03 Jul 2010 05:38:28 -0700, Don ǝʇoɹʍ:

> I thought I'd post this, as it is an example of a "worst-case scenario"
> situation. A few months ago I acquired a rather high-end Mitsubishi VHS
> VCR from eBay for not much money. The seller said the VCR was in
> excellent condition, and very clean. I'm sure everyone has heard this
> before... LOL. To make a long story short, when I received the VCR it
> was an absolute disaster from a aesthetic and cleanliness point-of-view.
> Obviously, the original owner was a heavy smoker, and the VCR
> absolutely reeked of smoke, and nicotine stains were the worst I've ever
> seen inside and out the unit. To put it mildly, it was horrible, and I
> almost felt I needed to put on rubber gloves just to touch it!
>
> Strangely, it worked fine, but otherwise it was a real mess. So, I
> decided to disassemble it and clean it manually. It didn't take long to
> realize that this was hopeless. Thus, I did the unthinkable,especially
> for a VCR. Once disassembled, I put each board and the
> chassis/transport into the dishwasher taking care to cover and protect
> the video head drum. No dish washing detergent, just the water. After
> a full wash, rinse, and dry cycle, I removed it, and gently dried it
> with compressed air, and then placed it into a 100 degree oven for a
> short time.
>
> After 3 months, the VCR is still working fine, and it looks (and smells)
> like new. Realistically, I had nothing to lose by trying this
> worst-case cleaning method, but it worked. It sounds like this would be
> an absolute disaster for a VCR, and I must admit, I am surprised that it
> was successful.
>
> I have used this method for cleaning other types of electronics in the
> past, but not a VCR.

Flux stripper spray and 90% Isopropyl on pc boards and other things that
won't be damaged by chemicals. Window cleaner on the outside.

== 4 of 6 ==
Date: Sat, Jul 3 2010 6:28 am
From: Bob Villa

On Jul 3, 7:38 am, Don <w...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> I thought I'd post this, as it is an example of a "worst-case
> scenario" situation. A few months ago I acquired a rather high-end
> Mitsubishi VHS VCR from eBay for not much money. The seller said the
> VCR was in excellent condition, and very clean. I'm sure everyone has
> heard this before... LOL. To make a long story short, when I received
> the VCR it was an absolute disaster from a aesthetic and cleanliness
> point-of-view. Obviously, the original owner was a heavy smoker, and
> the VCR absolutely reeked of smoke, and nicotine stains were the worst
> I've ever seen inside and out the unit. To put it mildly, it was
> horrible, and I almost felt I needed to put on rubber gloves just to
> touch it!
>
> Strangely, it worked fine, but otherwise it was a real mess. So, I
> decided to disassemble it and clean it manually. It didn't take long
> to realize that this was hopeless. Thus, I did the
> unthinkable,especially for a VCR. Once disassembled, I put each board
> and the chassis/transport into the dishwasher taking care to cover and
> protect the video head drum. No dish washing detergent, just the
> water. After a full wash, rinse, and dry cycle, I removed it, and
> gently dried it with compressed air, and then placed it into a 100
> degree oven for a short time.
>
> After 3 months, the VCR is still working fine, and it looks (and
> smells) like new. Realistically, I had nothing to lose by trying this
> worst-case cleaning method, but it worked. It sounds like this would
> be an absolute disaster for a VCR, and I must admit, I am surprised
> that it was successful.
>
> I have used this method for cleaning other types of electronics in the
> past, but not a VCR.

30 years ago, when I worked with circuit boards for cash
registers...we would steam clean and blow off board that had
spillage,smoking tars, insect or rodent nests on them.

bob

== 5 of 6 ==
Date: Sat, Jul 3 2010 6:40 am
From: "William Sommerwerck"

This had no effect on moving parts that weren't covered during the wash?
Their lubrication wasn't affected?

== 6 of 6 ==
Date: Sat, Jul 3 2010 7:13 am
From: stratus46@yahoo.com

On Jul 3, 5:38 am, Don <w...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> I thought I'd post this, as it is an example of a "worst-case
> scenario" situation. A few months ago I acquired a rather high-end
> Mitsubishi VHS VCR from eBay for not much money. The seller said the
> VCR was in excellent condition, and very clean. I'm sure everyone has
> heard this before... LOL. To make a long story short, when I received
> the VCR it was an absolute disaster from a aesthetic and cleanliness
> point-of-view. Obviously, the original owner was a heavy smoker, and
> the VCR absolutely reeked of smoke, and nicotine stains were the worst
> I've ever seen inside and out the unit. To put it mildly, it was
> horrible, and I almost felt I needed to put on rubber gloves just to
> touch it!
>
> Strangely, it worked fine, but otherwise it was a real mess. So, I
> decided to disassemble it and clean it manually. It didn't take long
> to realize that this was hopeless. Thus, I did the
> unthinkable,especially for a VCR. Once disassembled, I put each board
> and the chassis/transport into the dishwasher taking care to cover and
> protect the video head drum. No dish washing detergent, just the
> water. After a full wash, rinse, and dry cycle, I removed it, and
> gently dried it with compressed air, and then placed it into a 100
> degree oven for a short time.
>
> After 3 months, the VCR is still working fine, and it looks (and
> smells) like new. Realistically, I had nothing to lose by trying this
> worst-case cleaning method, but it worked. It sounds like this would
> be an absolute disaster for a VCR, and I must admit, I am surprised
> that it was successful.
>
> I have used this method for cleaning other types of electronics in the
> past, but not a VCR.

What's unthinkable about a dishwasher for PC boards? We put all 40
boards of a 1978 Ampex AVR-3 into the dishwasher in 2006 and they
worked fine. We did have the bonus of a commercial food dehydrator so
we cooked them at 105° F for 17 hours. Oven baking is OK so long as
you dnon't overheat them. Electric is preferred over gas as a
combustion byproduct is water - what you're trying to get rid of.

The transport however....

G²

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Epson Perfection Scanner Problem
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/e3e2ff1db77f9673?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sat, Jul 3 2010 5:42 am
From: "Jeff Layman"

"JD" <JD@No-where.con> wrote in message
news:895fofFd2hU1@mid.individual.net...
> Hi Experts :-)
>
> I have an Epson 1640SU that worked very well until today. Now, when I
> press the start button, it click-clicks and the carriage does not move.
>
> I removed the screws and tried to take the top off. The front of the top
> has catches that project into the base so it does not allow me to lift up
> the front. I removed the screws from the back and it will lift slightly
> but seems to be caught in something. I don't want to force it, so if
> someone has experience of this model I would appreciate advice on how to
> take it apart without wrecking it.

For future ref you might find the newsgroup comp.periphs.scanners to also be
of help. Some of the posts there refer to changing the lamp and cleaning
under the glass, so some successful dismantling must have taken place.

Jeff

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Any Lighting experts on here ... ?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/75b7c3eccbec375b?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 7 ==
Date: Sat, Jul 3 2010 6:08 am
From: "Arfa Daily"

I'm looking for a couple of replacement ceramic lampholders to go in a disco
lighting unit that's in for repair. This thing uses two 300 watt bi-pin
halogen capsule bulbs, with a pin spacing of about 6.3mm as close as I can
measure. They are straight pins, not the ones that are hooked over at the
ends. The original holders are a 3cm square with rounded off corners, about
1cm thick. The top face is covered by a mica square fixed by brass
swaged-over tubes, which are also the mounting holes for the holder. At the
top of one side, just below the mica square, heat resistant sleeved 'tails'
emerge. The two fixing holes with the brass tubes, are on the diagonal, but
offset towards one side, and the holes for the lamp pins are similarly
offset form the centre, by the same amount, and in the same direction.

I have searched high and low on the 'net for this holder, but drawn a blank.
Lots of places sell the standard round ceramic bases with tails attached,
for 5mm pin pitch halogen bulbs, but no sign of holders for these bigger
ones. I'm pretty sure that I did actually see them on just one site, but it
was an American trader, and I don't suppose they would want to ship a couple
to the UK at a worthwhile price. I found that one quite early on, but
discarded it because it was a U.S. company, and I figured if they had them,
others nearer home would too. No such luck, and of course, I can't find that
same site again. So, does anyone know what the official designation of this
style of bulb is, or a name or designation for the holder, so that I can be
a bit more targeted with search strings ? Or of course, if anyone knows of
a source for them ... :-)

TIA

Arfa

== 2 of 7 ==
Date: Sat, Jul 3 2010 6:13 am
From: "N_Cook"

Arfa Daily <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:XCGXn.92913$x15.87937@hurricane...
> I'm looking for a couple of replacement ceramic lampholders to go in a
disco
> lighting unit that's in for repair. This thing uses two 300 watt bi-pin
> halogen capsule bulbs, with a pin spacing of about 6.3mm as close as I can
> measure. They are straight pins, not the ones that are hooked over at the
> ends. The original holders are a 3cm square with rounded off corners,
about
> 1cm thick. The top face is covered by a mica square fixed by brass
> swaged-over tubes, which are also the mounting holes for the holder. At
the
> top of one side, just below the mica square, heat resistant sleeved
'tails'
> emerge. The two fixing holes with the brass tubes, are on the diagonal,
but
> offset towards one side, and the holes for the lamp pins are similarly
> offset form the centre, by the same amount, and in the same direction.
>
> I have searched high and low on the 'net for this holder, but drawn a
blank.
> Lots of places sell the standard round ceramic bases with tails attached,
> for 5mm pin pitch halogen bulbs, but no sign of holders for these bigger
> ones. I'm pretty sure that I did actually see them on just one site, but
it
> was an American trader, and I don't suppose they would want to ship a
couple
> to the UK at a worthwhile price. I found that one quite early on, but
> discarded it because it was a U.S. company, and I figured if they had
them,
> others nearer home would too. No such luck, and of course, I can't find
that
> same site again. So, does anyone know what the official designation of
this
> style of bulb is, or a name or designation for the holder, so that I can
be
> a bit more targeted with search strings ? Or of course, if anyone knows
of
> a source for them ... :-)
>
> TIA
>
> Arfa
>
>

a pic URL or actual would say 316 words

== 3 of 7 ==
Date: Sat, Jul 3 2010 6:20 am
From: Meat Plow

On Sat, 03 Jul 2010 14:08:10 +0100, Arfa Daily ǝʇoɹʍ:

> I'm looking for a couple of replacement ceramic lampholders to go in a
> disco lighting unit that's in for repair. This thing uses two 300 watt
> bi-pin halogen capsule bulbs, with a pin spacing of about 6.3mm as close
> as I can measure. They are straight pins, not the ones that are hooked
> over at the ends. The original holders are a 3cm square with rounded off
> corners, about 1cm thick. The top face is covered by a mica square fixed
> by brass swaged-over tubes, which are also the mounting holes for the
> holder. At the top of one side, just below the mica square, heat
> resistant sleeved 'tails' emerge. The two fixing holes with the brass
> tubes, are on the diagonal, but offset towards one side, and the holes
> for the lamp pins are similarly offset form the centre, by the same
> amount, and in the same direction.
>
> I have searched high and low on the 'net for this holder, but drawn a
> blank. Lots of places sell the standard round ceramic bases with tails
> attached, for 5mm pin pitch halogen bulbs, but no sign of holders for
> these bigger ones. I'm pretty sure that I did actually see them on just
> one site, but it was an American trader, and I don't suppose they would
> want to ship a couple to the UK at a worthwhile price. I found that one
> quite early on, but discarded it because it was a U.S. company, and I
> figured if they had them, others nearer home would too. No such luck,
> and of course, I can't find that same site again. So, does anyone know
> what the official designation of this style of bulb is, or a name or
> designation for the holder, so that I can be a bit more targeted with
> search strings ? Or of course, if anyone knows of a source for them ...
> :-)
>
> TIA
>
> Arfa

If my brain permits I will try to remember where I purchased some
replacement parts for some old disc lighting several years ago. It was a
one shot deal so it didn't stick in the old brain.

== 4 of 7 ==
Date: Sat, Jul 3 2010 7:32 am
From: Smitty Two

In article <XCGXn.92913$x15.87937@hurricane>,
"Arfa Daily" <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote:

> I'm looking for a couple of replacement ceramic lampholders to go in a disco
> lighting unit that's in for repair. This thing uses two 300 watt bi-pin
> halogen capsule bulbs, with a pin spacing of about 6.3mm as close as I can
> measure.

The bulb base may be a G6.35, where the number refers to the pin spacing
in mm. Perhaps putting that into google will facilitate your search.
Here's one such link:

http://www.donsbulbs.com/cgi-bin/r/b.pl/socket-db-tp61.html

== 5 of 7 ==
Date: Sat, Jul 3 2010 9:10 am
From: "Arfa Daily"

"Smitty Two" <prestwhich@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:prestwhich-8691C4.07324903072010@mx01.eternal-september.org...
> In article <XCGXn.92913$x15.87937@hurricane>,
> "Arfa Daily" <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote:
>
>> I'm looking for a couple of replacement ceramic lampholders to go in a
>> disco
>> lighting unit that's in for repair. This thing uses two 300 watt bi-pin
>> halogen capsule bulbs, with a pin spacing of about 6.3mm as close as I
>> can
>> measure.
>
> The bulb base may be a G6.35, where the number refers to the pin spacing
> in mm. Perhaps putting that into google will facilitate your search.
> Here's one such link:
>
> http://www.donsbulbs.com/cgi-bin/r/b.pl/socket-db-tp61.html

OK, found a suitable one in the UK and now ordered. Just a case of knowing
what it is you're looking for.

Thanks all ! :-)

Arfa

== 6 of 7 ==
Date: Sat, Jul 3 2010 12:02 pm
From: Bob AZ

So, does anyone know what the official designation of this
> style of bulb is, or a name or designation for the holder, so that I can be
> a bit more targeted with search strings ? Or of course, if anyone knows of
> a source for them ... :-)
>
> TIA
>
> Arfa

Arfa

www.bulbman.com They are in Nevada USA. Great place. They ship
eveywhere. And Leviton and Sylvania are also sources.

Bob AZ

== 7 of 7 ==
Date: Sat, Jul 3 2010 5:26 pm
From: "Arfa Daily"

"Bob AZ" <rwatson767@aol.com> wrote in message
news:17d222a2-3269-45a3-bf3e-132beef1899d@y32g2000prc.googlegroups.com...
> So, does anyone know what the official designation of this
>> style of bulb is, or a name or designation for the holder, so that I can
>> be
>> a bit more targeted with search strings ? Or of course, if anyone knows
>> of
>> a source for them ... :-)
>>
>> TIA
>>
>> Arfa
>
>
> Arfa
>
> www.bulbman.com They are in Nevada USA. Great place. They ship
> eveywhere. And Leviton and Sylvania are also sources.
>
> Bob AZ

Thanks Bob. Duly noted, and shoved in my Favourites ...

Arfa

==============================================================================
TOPIC: TSA shaving mirror out of a hard disk drive (what are those shiny
platters made out of anyway)?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/680b452b6da0d742?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sat, Jul 3 2010 7:47 am
From: VFW

In article <88ef6cFlr5U1@mid.individual.net>,
Sylvia Else <sylvia@not.here.invalid> wrote:

> On 22/06/2010 2:48 PM, Elmo wrote:
> > What are the shiny CDROM-sized platters in an old desktop disk drive made
> > out of?
> >
> > I glued two of them together so that the offset covered the center hole to
> > use as an indestructable traveling shaving mirror.
> >
> > A friend said they won't pass TSA security
>
> You're suggesting that TSA use any sort of rational criterion when
> deciding what to let through?
>
> Sylvia.

another illusion to keep the sheeple lulled into some form of lassitude .
The first job of the school system. Grooming consumers, factory workers
and the military. and of course tax-payers all.
http://www.facebook.com/video/video.php?v=410258247434

July 4 is a time when Americans celebrate life, liberty, and the
pursuit of happiness. But when we're spending hundreds of billions on
the Afghanistan War,not tho mention Iraq. and when we're cutting
education and unemployment
insurance benefits in a dismal economy, it's clear that War is
killing the American dream.

Let's get our priorities straight so... we can declare independence
from bloody, costly wars. and Oil.

Please share this video with your friends.

http://www.facebook.com/v/410258247434
--
Money! What a concept.

==============================================================================

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