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Today's topics:

* How to dissolve clear plastic coat from circuit boards? - 2 messages, 2
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http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/3589eaf245b53d57?hl=en
* Polaroid TLX-04011C vertical stripe - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/4c8b4302f2fee97b?hl=en
* LRG jeans made in china (http://www.brandtrade99.com ) - 1 messages, 1
author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/31cf7eadf48f7851?hl=en
* Repairing an expensive speaker - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/8fc3fa133c100ac4?hl=en
* cheap wholesale DEWITT watch - 1 messages, 1 author
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* Cheap Wholesale True Relig Jeans - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/6b4878e4d777febd?hl=en
* CRT: Brief contrast/brightness prob at start-up. - 2 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/cdf227264ff94f95?hl=en

==============================================================================
TOPIC: How to dissolve clear plastic coat from circuit boards?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/3589eaf245b53d57?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Fri, Jul 9 2010 3:24 pm
From: "William Sommerwerck"

> Confirmed. Coworker put a UV light on it, and it glows crazily. (The
> cuticles of all the fingers of my left hand also glow extremely brightly
> under UV; seems I now have a poisonous muck of plastic resins,
> toxic solvents, and radioactive isotopes embedded under my
> fingernails. Great. Sigh.)

Actually, you're mutating into a scorpion.

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Fri, Jul 9 2010 5:27 pm
From: Fred McKenzie

In article <PtKdnWFfL-8fzavRRVn_vwA@giganews.com>,
"Robbie Hatley" <see.my.sig@for.my.contact.info> wrote:

> Are there better options?

One thing I would try is fingernail polish remover. If it happens to
work, it may be safer than many of the other suggestions.

I keep a bottle of cheap fingernail polish remover, along with a bottle
of isopropyl alcohol (fuel-line antifreeze & water remover). The
alcohol appears to be close to 100% isopropyl and is good for removing
solder flux from PCBs. The nail polish remover is able to remove some
paints, inks and magic marker from various surfaces with minimal damage.

Fred

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Polaroid TLX-04011C vertical stripe
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/4c8b4302f2fee97b?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Fri, Jul 9 2010 5:24 pm
From: Franc Zabkar

On Wed, 7 Jul 2010 05:38:55 -0700 (PDT), klem kedidelhopper
<captainvideo462009@gmail.com> put finger to keyboard and composed:

>The edges are sharply defined however the "column" is slightly
>somewhat dimmer than the rest of the picture. That's what makes it
>noticeable I guess. How do you rule out /in a t con board? I did try
>cleaning the cable but it made no difference.Thanks, Lenny

Scope the driver outputs?

Interchange the suspect driver with an another on the same card?

What are the part numbers of the driver ICs? Some ICs can be purchased
separately.

- Franc Zabkar
--
Please remove one 'i' from my address when replying by email.

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TOPIC: Repairing an expensive speaker
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/8fc3fa133c100ac4?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Fri, Jul 9 2010 6:31 pm
From: TMI

I'll bet they don't have the machine required to degauss and
remagnatize your speaker. Or you are talking to a salesman trying to
manimize profit. There is no loss of flux with the correct size
equipment. In fact, there will be more flux in a newly charged magnet
compared to one that has been in service for a while.

In the macro economics of it all, a reconer has to charge you so much
to repair that magnet that it exceeds the value of a good basket core
(speaker without the cone/voice coil). It will never be exactly like
the uncracked one on the other side. No used speaker is worth more
than a core + the recone job and that is very close to the cost of a
new speaker.

Now there are some unique drivers out there that are not available
anymore but in most cases it makes real sense to measure the TS
parameters of the remaining driver and make a good substitution using
those numbers if a true replacement cannot be found.

Someone who is REALLY into restorations might have a similar piece of
ferrite or other magnetic material to replace the cracked magnet.
There is NOTHING wrong with repairing a magnet that way, then charging
the assembly.

I have been doing this for 4 decades and that is my professional
opinion.

Tom Maguire
TMI Engineering

On Jul 9, 4:08 pm, Ron <r...@lunevalleyaudio.com> wrote:
> On 09/07/2010 19:36, TMI wrote:
>
> > This is a horse of a different color.
>
> > You can't repair a cracked magnet and get the same flux in the gap
> > because the crack adds extra gaps. Getting the magnet to crack in the
> > first place usually means something horrible happened to the driver.
> > Buy a new one.
>
> Cracked ferrites _are_ repaired but only as a last resort in cases where
> there's no alternative. We've been through this recently on another n/g.
> It's not recommended, but it can be done.
>
> According to a large professional loudspeaker repair company I contacted
> on the subject, de-magnetising and remagnetising also is to be avoided
> as it loses flux.
>
> Ron(UK)
> --
> I am using the free version of SPAMfighter.
> We are a community of 7 million users fighting spam.
> SPAMfighter has removed 1445 of my spam emails to date.
> Get the free SPAMfighter here:http://www.spamfighter.com/len
>
> The Professional version does not have this message

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TOPIC: cheap wholesale DEWITT watch
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TOPIC: Cheap Wholesale True Relig Jeans
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/6b4878e4d777febd?hl=en
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TOPIC: CRT: Brief contrast/brightness prob at start-up.
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/cdf227264ff94f95?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Fri, Jul 9 2010 11:37 pm
From: Meatman

On Jul 9, 3:43 am, "Arfa Daily" <arfa.da...@ntlworld.com> wrote:
> "Meatman" <KevinLe...@comcast.net> wrote in message
>
> news:6f199bd8-ac89-41ee-a6e0-6aae02e397cd@y11g2000yqm.googlegroups.com...
>
> > 32" RCA Entertainment Series CRT. Had popping noise w/ no pic or
> > sound. Replaced HOT and FBT. Now A-OK except: At start-up, every start-
> > up, contrast/brightness is way low/very dark picture. After 3-5 secs
> > it corrects and is normal. I even let it run for 30 hrs straight to
> > see if it would freak-out in other ways. It didn't. Problem is quite
> > sufferable, but I'd like to chase it down. Ideas? Thanks again!
>
> Wrongly set 'screen' control on your new FBT ? Taking a while for the beam
> limiter to assess what's going on and correct for it ? If original FBT was
> faulty, beam limiter sense resistor in ground return gone high ?
>
> Arfa

BTW: RCA MODEL F32450 CHASSIS: ATC113CA1

I just dialed in the FBT by eyeball with it turned on. Tweaked both
settings til I had what I thought was best picture. Then adjusted
from menu settings. Should it be done another way? Everything else
is kosher except for prob described. THX!!!

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Fri, Jul 9 2010 11:45 pm
From: Meatman

<<
beam limiter sense resistor in ground return gone high ? >>

And where would I locate this little beast...approximately?

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