sci.electronics.repair - 18 new messages in 9 topics - digest

sci.electronics.repair
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair?hl=en

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Today's topics:

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Cheap Dsquared2 shoes www.shoestrade.biz
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/366484f435da51a4?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sun, Aug 1 2010 12:14 am
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==============================================================================
TOPIC: Glass fibre basket retainer for 5881/6L6
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/16c10415e29b4168?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Sun, Aug 1 2010 9:18 am
From: "Gareth Magennis"

"Dave M" <masondg4499@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:7u49569qpheo7idvstp1aiemrtnrr2ap61@4ax.com...
> On Sat, 31 Jul 2010 14:20:52 +0100, "N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote:
>
>>Meat Plow <mhywatt@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>>news:pan.2010.07.31.13.02.48@hahahahahahahah.nutz...
>>> On Sat, 31 Jul 2010 11:07:31 +0100, N_Cook wrote:
>>>
>>> > Owner has managed to get away with dragons teeth retaining clips
>>> > digging
>>> > into the glass envelope of his replacement type with no bakelite base
>>> > .
>>> > How to fabricate something approximating those woven glass mesh
>>> > baskets
>>> > that go over the envelope and then a pair of springs down to the
>>> > chassis
>>> > or any other ideas other than replacing with based envelope types ?
>>> >
>>> > Incidently the first thing I did was undo the screws of the dragons
>>> > teeth in hope of relieving some of the teeth force before removing the
>>> > valves , but was that the correct approach?
>>>
>>> Make something like Marshall used. Metal cap and springs.
>>
>>
>>I don't fancy making a pierced metal dome shape, that has to avoid the
>>fragile central area of the glass dome. So far I'm thinking of a length of
>>high temp glass sleeving knotted into a ring, slightly smaller than
>>envelope
>>circumference, with a balancing "knot" on the other side. Then silicone
>>sleeving or springs and glass sleeving down to a pair of solder tags as
>>anchors. Nasty dragons teeth chips in the bottles but they survived
>>
>
> You can buy the spring retainer clamps (similar to the Marshall, et al.
> clamps) from Antique Electronic Supply (www.tubesandmore.com) for $1.95
> USD each. A pittance compared to the value of the labor needed to
> manufacture a kluge in your shop, even with international 1st class
> postage.
>
> See them in the Vacuum Tube Accessories area.
> http://www.tubesandmore.com/scripts/foxweb.dll/catalog@d:/dfs/elevclients/cemirror/ELEVATOR.FXP?PAGE=SUBCAT&SEARCH_TREE01=VTUBEACC&SEARCH_TREE02=04_SHIELDS
>
> Cheers,
> Dave M

You can buy them in the UK too for £1.50 a pop.

http://www.watfordvalves.com/products.asp?id=6&man=83

Gareth.

== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Sun, Aug 1 2010 9:20 am
From: Meat Plow

On Sat, 31 Jul 2010 16:29:56 -0500, Dave M wrote:

> On Sat, 31 Jul 2010 14:20:52 +0100, "N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote:
>
>>Meat Plow <mhywatt@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>>news:pan.2010.07.31.13.02.48@hahahahahahahah.nutz...
>>> On Sat, 31 Jul 2010 11:07:31 +0100, N_Cook wrote:
>>>
>>> > Owner has managed to get away with dragons teeth retaining clips
>>> > digging into the glass envelope of his replacement type with no
>>> > bakelite base . How to fabricate something approximating those woven
>>> > glass mesh baskets that go over the envelope and then a pair of
>>> > springs down to the chassis or any other ideas other than replacing
>>> > with based envelope types ?
>>> >
>>> > Incidently the first thing I did was undo the screws of the dragons
>>> > teeth in hope of relieving some of the teeth force before removing
>>> > the valves , but was that the correct approach?
>>>
>>> Make something like Marshall used. Metal cap and springs.
>>
>>
>>I don't fancy making a pierced metal dome shape, that has to avoid the
>>fragile central area of the glass dome. So far I'm thinking of a length
>>of high temp glass sleeving knotted into a ring, slightly smaller than
>>envelope circumference, with a balancing "knot" on the other side. Then
>>silicone sleeving or springs and glass sleeving down to a pair of solder
>>tags as anchors. Nasty dragons teeth chips in the bottles but they
>>survived
>>
>>
> You can buy the spring retainer clamps (similar to the Marshall, et al.
> clamps) from Antique Electronic Supply (www.tubesandmore.com) for $1.95
> USD each. A pittance compared to the value of the labor needed to
> manufacture a kluge in your shop, even with international 1st class
> postage.
>
> See them in the Vacuum Tube Accessories area.
> http://www.tubesandmore.com/scripts/foxweb.dll/catalog@d:/dfs/
elevclients/cemirror/ELEVATOR.FXP?
PAGE=SUBCAT&SEARCH_TREE01=VTUBEACC&SEARCH_TREE02=04_SHIELDS
>
> Cheers,
> Dave M

Cook always prefers a Kludge first and then as a last resort purchasing
the right thing :)

== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Sun, Aug 1 2010 12:48 pm
From: Geo

On Sat, 31 Jul 2010 11:07:31 +0100, "N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote:

>Owner has managed to get away with dragons teeth retaining clips digging
>into the glass envelope of his replacement type with no bakelite base . How
>to fabricate something approximating those woven glass mesh baskets that go
>over the envelope and then a pair of springs down to the chassis or any
>other ideas other than replacing with based envelope types ?
>

Couple of possibilites on Ebay (UK)?
380227807270
350254990186

--
Geo

==============================================================================
TOPIC: SOUTH ACTRESS HOT PHOTOS&VIDEOS
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/ef6b54a33e826f92?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sun, Aug 1 2010 9:43 am
From: rama rao

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==============================================================================
TOPIC: SMT rework
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/cab4440230d769af?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sun, Aug 1 2010 9:50 am
From: "Arfa Daily"

"Herman" <ripe@bellsouth.net> wrote in message
news:i32fmn$iu8$1@news.albasani.net...
> I am looking to buy a hot air SMT rework station. Only for occasional
> use. I like the idea of the vacuum pencil and the hot tweezers. What
> would be the recommended tips for general use for ICs and resistors etc.
> I do not need to do the PLLC size chips. Price $300 max or so.
>

I have recently purchased a hot air rework station. It has hot air handpiece
with fully controllable airflow and temperature. Digital readout for temp.
Also has conventional iron with stand, again fully controllable temp and
digital readout. Comes with 5 round hot air nozzles. Square ones for QFPs
etc purchased from other sources fit, I understand from a friend who also
has one. Also 5 tips for the soldering iron, spare element for the hot air
and spare element for the soldering iron. I paid 55UKP for it, so work that
out in USD - about $80 maybe. Company I got it from is in China and called
dragondirectmall. Very efficient and helpful service. Once it had been
collected from them by DHL, arrived at my door less than 24 Hrs later. On
their eBay site, they have a video showing a station being built, and you
can see that for the money, it is incredible value.

Go to eBay and put in "KADA 852D" then look for the one that says "buy now
for £55". They have USD prices as well, as far as I recall. Very satisfied
with mine, so far.

Arfa

==============================================================================
TOPIC: 125 VAC motor won't start
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/a1adec446eb7f728?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Sun, Aug 1 2010 12:57 pm
From: a453

a453 wrote:

Hi thanks to you all for the replies.

I opened the motor.... there is a very rusty capacitor inside it.... the
markings are unreadable.

I disconnected the capacitor and tried to test if the capacitor still
works by using a tester with different ohm settings... I always got no
readings.... I guest that means that the capacitor is broken?

If so, now the problem i getting a new capacitor with the right size...

The motor data is:

dual voltage 125/250 V

Amps 21.0/10.5

2.0 HP (SF 1.10 SF)

This is a single phase Magnetek Centurion SE motor powered at normal 125
Volt housedold power.

My understandi is that i should look for an unpolarized motor star
capacitor rated at 270-324 microFarad at 250 Volt

Is this correct? Thanks so much for your help!!

== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Sun, Aug 1 2010 1:40 pm
From: Archon

On 8/1/2010 3:57 PM, a453 wrote:
> a453 wrote:
>
>
> Hi thanks to you all for the replies.
>
> I opened the motor.... there is a very rusty capacitor inside it.... the
> markings are unreadable.
>
> I disconnected the capacitor and tried to test if the capacitor still
> works by using a tester with different ohm settings... I always got no
> readings.... I guest that means that the capacitor is broken?
>
> If so, now the problem i getting a new capacitor with the right size...
>
> The motor data is:
>
> dual voltage 125/250 V
>
> Amps 21.0/10.5
>
> 2.0 HP (SF 1.10 SF)
>
> This is a single phase Magnetek Centurion SE motor powered at normal 125
> Volt housedold power.
>
> My understandi is that i should look for an unpolarized motor star
> capacitor rated at 270-324 microFarad at 250 Volt
>
> Is this correct? Thanks so much for your help!!
Hi, I guess this a pool/spa pump? Magnatek centurion is probably an A.O.
Smith motor.

Are there any other identifiers on the motor plate that are readable? If
so go to the AO Smith website

http://www.aosmithmotors.com/default.aspx

Literature library

Manuals

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Download the parts catalog PDF, it gives all the cap values for motors
but you need some identifier to select the correct part. If you have
the SPA/Pump filter manufacturer it easier to find a good pool supplies
shop and ask, my local pool outfit is pretty good.
JC

== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Sun, Aug 1 2010 1:44 pm
From: Archon

On 8/1/2010 4:40 PM, Archon wrote:
> On 8/1/2010 3:57 PM, a453 wrote:
>> a453 wrote:
>>
>>
>> Hi thanks to you all for the replies.
>>
>> I opened the motor.... there is a very rusty capacitor inside it.... the
>> markings are unreadable.
>>
>> I disconnected the capacitor and tried to test if the capacitor still
>> works by using a tester with different ohm settings... I always got no
>> readings.... I guest that means that the capacitor is broken?
>>
>> If so, now the problem i getting a new capacitor with the right size...
>>
>> The motor data is:
>>
>> dual voltage 125/250 V
>>
>> Amps 21.0/10.5
>>
>> 2.0 HP (SF 1.10 SF)
>>
>> This is a single phase Magnetek Centurion SE motor powered at normal 125
>> Volt housedold power.
>>
>> My understandi is that i should look for an unpolarized motor star
>> capacitor rated at 270-324 microFarad at 250 Volt
>>
>> Is this correct? Thanks so much for your help!!
> Hi, I guess this a pool/spa pump? Magnatek centurion is probably an A.O.
> Smith motor.
>
> Are there any other identifiers on the motor plate that are readable? If
> so go to the AO Smith website
>
> http://www.aosmithmotors.com/default.aspx
>
> Literature library
>
> Manuals
>
> Replacement Parts
>
> Download the parts catalog PDF, it gives all the cap values for motors
> but you need some identifier to select the correct part. If you have the
> SPA/Pump filter manufacturer it easier to find a good pool supplies shop
> and ask, my local pool outfit is pretty good.
> JC
>
>
This may help

http://www.pool1.com/motor.asp

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Videorecorder problem - see pics
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/6e566ea01f711ec0?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Sun, Aug 1 2010 1:29 pm
From: nontelo@dico.no (Mino)

Frame taken from faulty VCR:
http://i32.tinypic.com/29yqr6p.jpg

Same frame captured from another recorder:
http://i27.tinypic.com/16ge4ic.jpg

What's wrong with the first VCR? Worn / dirty heads or anything else?

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Sun, Aug 1 2010 6:15 pm
From: "Arfa Daily"

"Mino" <nontelo@dico.no> wrote in message
news:4c55da25.347937@news.libero.it...
> Hi
>
> Frame taken from faulty VCR:
> http://i32.tinypic.com/29yqr6p.jpg
>
> Same frame captured from another recorder:
> http://i27.tinypic.com/16ge4ic.jpg
>
> What's wrong with the first VCR? Worn / dirty heads or anything else?

Likely worn heads, when there is black streaking from white fast transitions
like lettering edges.

Arfa

==============================================================================
TOPIC: hissing sound coming from behind woofer on one side AR11
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/3a9cce9766f809ce?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 4 ==
Date: Sun, Aug 1 2010 3:11 pm
From: Meat Plow

On Sat, 31 Jul 2010 08:04:14 -0700, Amanda Ripanykhazov wrote:

> On Jul 30, 5:41 pm, Meat Plow <mhyw...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>> On Fri, 30 Jul 2010 14:03:39 -0700, Amanda Ripanykhazov wrote:
>> > Thank you for your confidence everyone: If I wanted to wind everyone
>> > up, dont you think I would have found a funnier way of doing it than
>> > this?
>>
>> Not if you're just not too funny in the first place.
>>
>> > If someone can get me a way of posting a wav file to a NG, let me
>> > know and I will stick a microphone in front of the speaker and post
>> > whatever it records
>>
>> > Meanwhile I will take the speaker out and report back if/when I have
>> > a result
>>
>> But you've already subbed the speaker and the hiss went away or so I
>> thought I had previously read.
>
> Call me an old cynic and obviously I am not a technical expert but
> doesnt simple logic mandate that when you sub a speaker and the sound
> goes away, all it means is that (what I thought blindingly obvious from
> the symptoms and there being no apparent logical connection between the
> source and the hissing, which was why I posted here: Because "The
> problem is that you are describing something that doesn't seem to make
> any sense, or have any obvious explanation" so I wondered whether anyone
> had come across it before) the sound wasnt coming from the source? Or
> did I have to add that when i put the speaker back again, the sound came
> back?

Sorry if you have been labeled a troll. You seem to have enough sense to
effect a repair so please do.

== 2 of 4 ==
Date: Sun, Aug 1 2010 3:14 pm
From: Meat Plow

On Sat, 31 Jul 2010 12:25:38 -0700, nesesu wrote:

> On Jul 31, 9:30 am, "William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgee...@comcast.net>
> wrote:
>> Call me an old cynic and obviously I am not a technical expert but
>> doesnt simple logic mandate that when you sub a speaker and the sound
>> goes away, all it means is that (what I thought blindingly obvious from
>> the symptoms and there being no apparent logical connection between the
>> source and the hissing, which was why I posted here: Because "The
>> problem is that you are describing something that doesn't seem to make
>> any sense, or have any obvious explanation" so I wondered whether
>> anyone had come across it before) the sound wasnt coming from the
>> source? Or did I have to add that when i put the speaker back again,
>> the sound came back?
>>
>> Your speakers are passive devices. They cannot make any sort of sound
>> on their own.
>>
>> If hissing is coming from one of them (but not the other, when driven
>> from the same amp), the speaker must be therefore be the source of the
>> hiss. But as there is nothing in the speaker that could, by itself,
>> create sound, then the speaker must be altering or distorting its input
>> to produce the hiss. However, you say that the presence or level of the
>> hiss is not related to the program material.
>>
>> This makes no sense. The logical conclusion is that A: you are grossly
>> mis-describing the symptoms, or B: this is a troll.
>>
>> I think it's B. I really don't have any more time for this
>> tsuris/tsimmes. Take your pick.
>
> There is a slight possibility that there is an issue with the crossover
> in this speaker that de-stabilizes the driving amplifier, causing an HF
> oscillation in the amp, yet the amp IS stable with the other speaker.
> I worked on an Pioneer amp that was marginally stable and would
> oscillate depending on the load. The clue it was oscillating was a
> 'sizzle' in the speaker and the overload lamp was always lit. Other than
> that it appeared to work fine to the owners old ears, although there was
> a slightly perceptable clipping distortion on louder passages. A slight
> adjustment of the R-C feedback in the amp returned the rock solid
> stability and eliminated the perceived 'hiss'. That system had been to
> two 'professional' shops; one said there was nothing wrong and the other
> said it could not be repaired.
>
> Neil S.

I wouldn't bet on it and I'm not going back through the thread because I
don't thread or keep or watch articles but, I thought Amanda said the
speaker hissed on its own without an amp powered up.

== 3 of 4 ==
Date: Sun, Aug 1 2010 3:45 pm
From: "William Sommerwerck"

> Sorry if you have been labeled a troll. You seem to have
> enough sense to effect a repair so please do.

If you do effect a repair, please let us know what the problem was. I would
be delighted to learn that I was wrong.

== 4 of 4 ==
Date: Sun, Aug 1 2010 3:46 pm
From: "William Sommerwerck"

> I wouldn't bet on it and I'm not going back through
> the thread because I don't thread or keep or watch
> articles but, I thought Amanda said the speaker
> hissed on its own without an amp powered up.

My memory is that she said it didn't -- the amp had to be on. But there
seemed to be no correlation between the program's content or volume.

Put a 'scope on the amp's output, if you can.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Repairing flexible pcb connector track? Result!
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/ae4dd2364002cc94?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Sun, Aug 1 2010 3:15 pm
From: Meat Plow

On Sat, 31 Jul 2010 23:55:21 +0100, Ian P wrote:

> After mulling over all the good guidance and advice I recieved in
> response to my original posting I decided which method to use and this
> evening have successfully repaired the cut tracks.
>
> I went for the soldered wire jumpers over the breaks, straightforward
> under normal circumstances but in this case on a small scale. I bridged
> four adjacent tracks using wire 0,05mm (2 thou) diameter taken from
> super flexible test lead wire. The tracks were were between 0.1 and
> 0.15mm wide and the whole repaired area ended up 0.9mm wide and 4mm
> long.
>
> With the right equipment, microscope etc I can now see that a repair of
> this sort could be done fairly easily, I managed with a strong magnifyng
> glass that I fixed in place so I had both hands free. After I fixed the
> first jumper I improved my technique and was able to work one handed by
> using a longer length of jumper held taught exactly in line with the
> track by bits of masking tape at either end. Because of its length its
> really easy to position the jumper, I also put a little bit of packing
> under the ribbon so that it formed a raised surface to keep the wire in
> contact with the previously tinned tracks.
>
> I still have to test the repair but mechanically all the joints are
> sound and separated from each other so I'm happy.
>
> Many thanks to all that responded.
>
> Ian

Get yourself a 25x stereo magnifying visor. It's a good investment.

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Sun, Aug 1 2010 4:44 pm
From: Rich Webb

On Sun, 1 Aug 2010 22:15:44 +0000 (UTC), Meat Plow <mhywatt@yahoo.com>
wrote:

>On Sat, 31 Jul 2010 23:55:21 +0100, Ian P wrote:
>
>> After mulling over all the good guidance and advice I recieved in
>> response to my original posting I decided which method to use and this
>> evening have successfully repaired the cut tracks.
>>
>> I went for the soldered wire jumpers over the breaks, straightforward
>> under normal circumstances but in this case on a small scale. I bridged
>> four adjacent tracks using wire 0,05mm (2 thou) diameter taken from
>> super flexible test lead wire. The tracks were were between 0.1 and
>> 0.15mm wide and the whole repaired area ended up 0.9mm wide and 4mm
>> long.
>>
>> With the right equipment, microscope etc I can now see that a repair of
>> this sort could be done fairly easily, I managed with a strong magnifyng
>> glass that I fixed in place so I had both hands free. After I fixed the
>> first jumper I improved my technique and was able to work one handed by
>> using a longer length of jumper held taught exactly in line with the
>> track by bits of masking tape at either end. Because of its length its
>> really easy to position the jumper, I also put a little bit of packing
>> under the ribbon so that it formed a raised surface to keep the wire in
>> contact with the previously tinned tracks.
>>
>> I still have to test the repair but mechanically all the joints are
>> sound and separated from each other so I'm happy.
>>
>> Many thanks to all that responded.
>>
>> Ian
>
>Get yourself a 25x stereo magnifying visor. It's a good investment.

2.5x (5 diopter)?

--
Rich Webb Norfolk, VA

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Parts
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/6b4b067e1cc105e9?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sat, Jul 31 2010 8:47 pm
From: "Vince"

Hi!
Where doI purschase Parts for Magnavox TVs?
Thank you
Vince

==============================================================================

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