sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Today's topics:

* Boss GT-6B multiple guitar effects pedal board, 2005 - 9 messages, 3 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/f773b40f9461ca34?hl=en
* bank swift codes - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/18700577d9e0da30?hl=en
* ROSEWOOD HUDSON NEIGHBORHOOD WATCH - 2 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/f46754a60e10b1a9?hl=en
* Cause of blown fuse. - 4 messages, 4 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/e4e620ad717ceda2?hl=en
* Weird telephone problem - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/5b67728e19c05524?hl=en
* Ripped speaker grill - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/d0f91f3c190e10dd?hl=en

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Boss GT-6B multiple guitar effects pedal board, 2005
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/f773b40f9461ca34?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 9 ==
Date: Wed, Aug 11 2010 12:22 am
From: "N_Cook"

Two of these known to the owner of this one have shown the same symptoms,
but never connected together in any way.
The other one apparently corrected by a factory reset (coincidence?)
At switch on the display continuously scrolls as though one of the up or
down bank select pedals
is active, ie looks like the action of someone continuously turning the
rotary encoder switch.
Have taken apart but not reassembled yet , unenclosed .
Only 0.2mm differentiating first touch to click over of the very basic click
switches under all the
foot pedals. The "wah-wah" switch is different action. Is it a stock fault
of deflecting steelwork/pivot wear/bending pcb/expanding soft inserts?
causing engagement of these switches, then just washer packings to correct
for a short time until the problem re-emerges) or something more
electronic/software or internal rotary encoder problem

== 2 of 9 ==
Date: Wed, Aug 11 2010 2:26 am
From: "N_Cook"

Not a stuck sw problem. Unlikely rotary encoder sw problem as physically
rotating it changes the 7-segment display but the auto scrolling error
function does not. No susceptibility to touching components. Select a
funtion like tuner and the display stops scrolling and gives tuner display.
Disconnecting all ribbons except the display one , the scrolling display
still there so a main board problem seemingly. I suppose ESR caps check is
first port of call. User manual from Bossus site and schema etc on e-service

== 3 of 9 ==
Date: Wed, Aug 11 2010 5:19 am
From: Meat Plow

On Wed, 11 Aug 2010 08:22:10 +0100, N_Cook wrote:

> Two of these known to the owner of this one have shown the same
> symptoms, but never connected together in any way. The other one
> apparently corrected by a factory reset (coincidence?) At switch on the
> display continuously scrolls as though one of the up or down bank select
> pedals
> is active, ie looks like the action of someone continuously turning the
> rotary encoder switch.
> Have taken apart but not reassembled yet , unenclosed . Only 0.2mm
> differentiating first touch to click over of the very basic click
> switches under all the
> foot pedals. The "wah-wah" switch is different action. Is it a stock
> fault
> of deflecting steelwork/pivot wear/bending pcb/expanding soft inserts?
> causing engagement of these switches, then just washer packings to
> correct
> for a short time until the problem re-emerges) or something more
> electronic/software or internal rotary encoder problem

I never had any problems with my GT6. Used it to gig with from 06 to 08.

--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

== 4 of 9 ==
Date: Wed, Aug 11 2010 6:14 am
From: "N_Cook"

Meat Plow <mhywatt@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:pan.2010.08.11.12.19.16@hahahahahahahah.nutz.I.am...
> On Wed, 11 Aug 2010 08:22:10 +0100, N_Cook wrote:
>
> > Two of these known to the owner of this one have shown the same
> > symptoms, but never connected together in any way. The other one
> > apparently corrected by a factory reset (coincidence?) At switch on the
> > display continuously scrolls as though one of the up or down bank select
> > pedals
> > is active, ie looks like the action of someone continuously turning the
> > rotary encoder switch.
> > Have taken apart but not reassembled yet , unenclosed . Only 0.2mm
> > differentiating first touch to click over of the very basic click
> > switches under all the
> > foot pedals. The "wah-wah" switch is different action. Is it a stock
> > fault
> > of deflecting steelwork/pivot wear/bending pcb/expanding soft inserts?
> > causing engagement of these switches, then just washer packings to
> > correct
> > for a short time until the problem re-emerges) or something more
> > electronic/software or internal rotary encoder problem
>
> I never had any problems with my GT6. Used it to gig with from 06 to 08.
>
>
>
> --
> Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

I asked, at receipt, whether this one had been connected to a pc and it had
not. I've just asked whether it had been connected to a sequencer and so
maybe the other one had as well, transferring corrupted code. This 6B same
as the e-service 6 pdf as far as display is concerned , buffers between uC
and display seem to be operating correctly but still scrolling with the
switch and rotary board disconnected. No obvious ESR problems, little much
else to do, check a few V if 6 and 6B agree there.

== 5 of 9 ==
Date: Wed, Aug 11 2010 7:16 am
From: "N_Cook"

With all ribbons disconnected other than display one I noticed that the
display stabilised if "digital" fingering of the empty mainboard socket for
the ribbon that goes to the sw board and pair of analogue mx chips.
Reconnecting that ribbon the display still scrolled but tugging on the fixed
end of the ribbon stopped it. Resoldered the ends and display and overall
functioning seems normal, eg up/down bank buttons function, unlike before.
Nothing obviously wrong with solder or the crimp? terminals to the wires
that are also the solder points but something wrong there. Not PbF but
resoldered all 4 such ribbon fixed ends JIC. As maybe generic Boss problem
area they are no-name white "Harwin" 0.1 inch type connector system for
discrete wire ribbons, same crimp? system at the fixed end (inserted into
the housing then soldered to pcb) and socket end , so standard sockets at
one end and solderable thru-housing and pcb pins at the other.
So is it coincidence the other one was playing up the same way and was
genuinly cured by factory reset or same wiring problem coincidently
disappeared for the present on that one? Or of course some other
intermittant problem with this one coincident to fiddling with one
connector, the repairman's dilemma. Repairing (or not) by divination in
effect.

I've now had word back that both units have only been connected analogue to
amps and guitars, no midi or digital connections. Not bought from same
supplier either.

== 6 of 9 ==
Date: Wed, Aug 11 2010 1:01 pm
From: Meat Plow

On Wed, 11 Aug 2010 14:14:05 +0100, N_Cook wrote:

> Meat Plow <mhywatt@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:pan.2010.08.11.12.19.16@hahahahahahahah.nutz.I.am...
>> On Wed, 11 Aug 2010 08:22:10 +0100, N_Cook wrote:
>>
>> > Two of these known to the owner of this one have shown the same
>> > symptoms, but never connected together in any way. The other one
>> > apparently corrected by a factory reset (coincidence?) At switch on
>> > the display continuously scrolls as though one of the up or down bank
>> > select pedals
>> > is active, ie looks like the action of someone continuously turning
>> > the rotary encoder switch.
>> > Have taken apart but not reassembled yet , unenclosed . Only 0.2mm
>> > differentiating first touch to click over of the very basic click
>> > switches under all the
>> > foot pedals. The "wah-wah" switch is different action. Is it a stock
>> > fault
>> > of deflecting steelwork/pivot wear/bending pcb/expanding soft
>> > inserts? causing engagement of these switches, then just washer
>> > packings to correct
>> > for a short time until the problem re-emerges) or something more
>> > electronic/software or internal rotary encoder problem
>>
>> I never had any problems with my GT6. Used it to gig with from 06 to
>> 08.
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse
>
>
> I asked, at receipt, whether this one had been connected to a pc and it
> had not. I've just asked whether it had been connected to a sequencer
> and so maybe the other one had as well, transferring corrupted code.
> This 6B same as the e-service 6 pdf as far as display is concerned ,
> buffers between uC and display seem to be operating correctly but still
> scrolling with the switch and rotary board disconnected. No obvious ESR
> problems, little much else to do, check a few V if 6 and 6B agree there.

Well the 6B must have had a USB port if you are talking PC connections.
Mine had no USB. I don't recall if you could upload new patches using MIDI
as I never did.

--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

== 7 of 9 ==
Date: Wed, Aug 11 2010 1:05 pm
From: Meat Plow

On Wed, 11 Aug 2010 15:16:17 +0100, N_Cook wrote:

> With all ribbons disconnected other than display one I noticed that the
> display stabilised if "digital" fingering of the empty mainboard socket
> for the ribbon that goes to the sw board and pair of analogue mx chips.
> Reconnecting that ribbon the display still scrolled but tugging on the
> fixed end of the ribbon stopped it. Resoldered the ends and display and
> overall functioning seems normal, eg up/down bank buttons function,
> unlike before. Nothing obviously wrong with solder or the crimp?
> terminals to the wires that are also the solder points but something
> wrong there. Not PbF but resoldered all 4 such ribbon fixed ends JIC. As
> maybe generic Boss problem area they are no-name white "Harwin" 0.1 inch
> type connector system for discrete wire ribbons, same crimp? system at
> the fixed end (inserted into the housing then soldered to pcb) and
> socket end , so standard sockets at one end and solderable thru-housing
> and pcb pins at the other. So is it coincidence the other one was
> playing up the same way and was genuinly cured by factory reset or same
> wiring problem coincidently disappeared for the present on that one? Or
> of course some other intermittant problem with this one coincident to
> fiddling with one connector, the repairman's dilemma. Repairing (or not)
> by divination in effect.
>
> I've now had word back that both units have only been connected analogue
> to amps and guitars, no midi or digital connections. Not bought from
> same supplier either.

My 6 suffered road abuse. Was dinged and dented but never failed. Just an
FYI. Don't think those problems were endemic to the 6 unless their were
changes made to the 6B.

--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

== 8 of 9 ==
Date: Wed, Aug 11 2010 1:27 pm
From: "Gareth Magennis"

"N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote in message
news:i3tj5q$14f$2@news.eternal-september.org...
> Two of these known to the owner of this one have shown the same symptoms,
> but never connected together in any way.
> The other one apparently corrected by a factory reset (coincidence?)
> At switch on the display continuously scrolls as though one of the up or
> down bank select pedals
> is active, ie looks like the action of someone continuously turning the
> rotary encoder switch.
> Have taken apart but not reassembled yet , unenclosed .
> Only 0.2mm differentiating first touch to click over of the very basic
> click
> switches under all the
> foot pedals. The "wah-wah" switch is different action. Is it a stock fault
> of deflecting steelwork/pivot wear/bending pcb/expanding soft inserts?
> causing engagement of these switches, then just washer packings to correct
> for a short time until the problem re-emerges) or something more
> electronic/software or internal rotary encoder problem
>
>

Phone Roland Service dept, and speak to a person. If it is a common fault
they will know about it.

01792 702 701

Gareth.

== 9 of 9 ==
Date: Wed, Aug 11 2010 1:41 pm
From: "Gareth Magennis"

"Gareth Magennis" <sound.service@btconnect.com> wrote in message
news:WID8o.801$ww1.567@hurricane...
>
>
> "N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote in message
> news:i3tj5q$14f$2@news.eternal-september.org...
>> Two of these known to the owner of this one have shown the same symptoms,
>> but never connected together in any way.
>> The other one apparently corrected by a factory reset (coincidence?)
>> At switch on the display continuously scrolls as though one of the up or
>> down bank select pedals
>> is active, ie looks like the action of someone continuously turning the
>> rotary encoder switch.
>> Have taken apart but not reassembled yet , unenclosed .
>> Only 0.2mm differentiating first touch to click over of the very basic
>> click
>> switches under all the
>> foot pedals. The "wah-wah" switch is different action. Is it a stock
>> fault
>> of deflecting steelwork/pivot wear/bending pcb/expanding soft inserts?
>> causing engagement of these switches, then just washer packings to
>> correct
>> for a short time until the problem re-emerges) or something more
>> electronic/software or internal rotary encoder problem
>>
>>
>
>
> Phone Roland Service dept, and speak to a person. If it is a common
> fault they will know about it.
>
> 01792 702 701
>
>
>
> Gareth.
>
>
>

After making sure, of course, it isn't a power supply issue..

==============================================================================
TOPIC: bank swift codes
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/18700577d9e0da30?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Wed, Aug 11 2010 5:40 am
From: Deepy ahuja

http://swiftcodes-toneyahuja.blogspot.com/

==============================================================================
TOPIC: ROSEWOOD HUDSON NEIGHBORHOOD WATCH
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/f46754a60e10b1a9?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Wed, Aug 11 2010 6:52 am
From: Anonymous

ROSEWOOD HUDSON
(540) 772-7800

** NEIGHBORHOOD WATCH ALERT **

Christopher H. White of 5076 Queens Wood Drive, Burke, VA 22015 has been arrested at least once for impersonating a police officer.

White is using his falsely assumed authority to extort money and gain sexual favors.

Any contact with White should result in a call to 911.

ROSEWOOD HUDSON has assigned White to high risk in all categories. That means he should be denied employment, tenancy, and loans.

ROSEWOOD HUDSON also designates White a high risk individual when it comes to children.

We are experts in doing personal and professional background checks and also offer skiptracing services to lenders and collection agencies.

We also offer evaluations to assist you in making decisions about hiring employees and contractors, lending and tenancy.

Please contact Kelly Woolwine, Todd Kaus or John Harvey for assistance.

We are licensed in all 50 states and have an A+ BBB rating.

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Wed, Aug 11 2010 6:57 am
From: Anonymous

ROSEWOOD HUDSON
(540) 772-7800

** NEIGHBORHOOD WATCH ALERT **

Christopher H. White of 5076 Queens Wood Drive, Burke, VA 22015 has been arrested at least once for impersonating a police officer.

White is using his falsely assumed authority to extort money and gain sexual favors.

Any contact with White should result in a call to 911.

ROSEWOOD HUDSON has assigned White to high risk in all categories. That means he should be denied employment, tenancy, and loans.

ROSEWOOD HUDSON also designates White a high risk individual when it comes to children.

We are experts in doing personal and professional background checks and also offer skiptracing services to lenders and collection agencies.

We also offer evaluations to assist you in making decisions about hiring employees and contractors, lending and tenancy.

Please contact Kelly Woolwine, Todd Kaus or John Harvey for assistance.

We are licensed in all 50 states and have an A+ BBB rating.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Cause of blown fuse.
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/e4e620ad717ceda2?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 4 ==
Date: Wed, Aug 11 2010 11:54 am
From: nesesu

On Aug 10, 4:54 pm, Sjouke Burry <burrynulnulf...@ppllaanneett.nnll>
wrote:
> Today, somebody donated an Akay AA-MBL radio/amplifier to me.
> Not operational, on investigation two blown 15 amp fuses, by
> the look of it, in the power amplifier.
> Fuses replaced by 2X 6 amp , and to my surprise, everything
> started working.
>
> Now fuses dont blow just to surprise you.
>
> So, how did the former owner manage to blow both?

Where in the circuit are the fuses? If they are line fuses, it is
pretty hard to develop enough current through the power transformer
[?] to blow 15A fuses. If there is an outlet for a phonograph after
the fuses, it could have been a short plugged into that.
I did have one set that the 'line' capacitor failed and it was blasted
to oblivon so the set worked fine with a new fuse. The only clue that
the cap had been there was a bit of blackening near the tie strip and
two short leads with nice copper balls on the ends. Someone must have
taken the bottom off and removed all the bits of plastic and paper
since there were none present.

Neil S.

== 2 of 4 ==
Date: Wed, Aug 11 2010 2:14 pm
From: Sjouke Burry

nesesu wrote:
> On Aug 10, 4:54 pm, Sjouke Burry <burrynulnulf...@ppllaanneett.nnll>
> wrote:
>> Today, somebody donated an Akay AA-MBL radio/amplifier to me.
>> Not operational, on investigation two blown 15 amp fuses, by
>> the look of it, in the power amplifier.
>> Fuses replaced by 2X 6 amp , and to my surprise, everything
>> started working.
>>
>> Now fuses dont blow just to surprise you.
>>
>> So, how did the former owner manage to blow both?
>
> Where in the circuit are the fuses? If they are line fuses, it is
> pretty hard to develop enough current through the power transformer
> [?] to blow 15A fuses. If there is an outlet for a phonograph after
> the fuses, it could have been a short plugged into that.
> I did have one set that the 'line' capacitor failed and it was blasted
> to oblivon so the set worked fine with a new fuse. The only clue that
> the cap had been there was a bit of blackening near the tie strip and
> two short leads with nice copper balls on the ends. Someone must have
> taken the bottom off and removed all the bits of plastic and paper
> since there were none present.
>
> Neil S.
The fuses sat right in the centre of the power amplifier print.
I wold guess protection of the output stage.
The mains fuse was oke.
The set is still playing as I type this.

== 3 of 4 ==
Date: Wed, Aug 11 2010 2:52 pm
From: "William Sommerwerck"

> The fuses sat right in the centre of the power amplifier
> print. [???] I would guess protection of the output stage.
> The mains fuse was OK. The set is still playing.

Driving a low-impedance speaker at high volumes can cause this. (I had it
happen once.)

LET ME REPEAT, because no one seems to be paying attention. A fuse (or
fuses) can pop for no /obvious/ reason. It doesn't mean the amplifier is
defective, or that the fuses are likely to blow again. This sort of thing
happens every day, and is nothing to worry about. *

If it /keeps/ happening, /then/ you have to find out why. Otherwise, don't
worry about it.

The last time this happened to me was about nine months ago. I accidentally
knocked the power cord out of an amplifier's AC socket. In putting it back,
I didn't push the connector in quickly and firmly enough, and the amplifier
"chattered" on and off. The inductive kickback generated enough current to
blow the AC fuse. This was completely normal, one of the reasons electronic
equipment is fused.

* I once serviced a ReVox open-reel tape deck that kept blowing its fuse.
The fuse popped every three or four times the unit was turned on. I watched
the fuse during turn-on, and saw it flex as it heated up from the inrush
current. After a few flexes, it broke.

Though it appeared to be the correct fuse for this deck, I decided to
replace it with a slow-blow fuse of slightly higher capacity (about a half
ampere, IIRC). The customer was happy, and as far as I know, the deck didn't
explode and his house didn't burn down.

== 4 of 4 ==
Date: Wed, Aug 11 2010 9:39 pm
From: "Michael A. Terrell"

Sjouke Burry wrote:
>
> Today, somebody donated an Akay AA-MBL radio/amplifier to me.
> Not operational, on investigation two blown 15 amp fuses, by
> the look of it, in the power amplifier.
> Fuses replaced by 2X 6 amp , and to my surprise, everything
> started working.
>
> Now fuses dont blow just to surprise you.

I blame the queer resistors. ;-)

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Weird telephone problem
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/5b67728e19c05524?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Wed, Aug 11 2010 7:39 pm
From: David Lesher

Bill Janssen <billj@ieee.org> writes:

>> Agree re: corroded wiring connection as likely cause.
>>
>> Go to each jack and put a *milliammeter* across Tip-Ring.
>> Start at the demark.
>>
>The milliampmeter should be in series with a 400 Ohm
>resister. The resister represents the resistance in the phone.

Not needed at all, and misses the point. The phone is not a
fixed resistance; it's a small voltage drop that varies with
loop length.

The outside plant loop and the line relay at the CO limit the
current. Let's say you are 5000 ft from the CO; that's 250 ohms
right there. The line relay is say 500 ohms. Worst case, 60 odd
mA. In reality the line card will limit it to far less.

Nothing you can do to your end of the loop will damage anything.

Your goal is to see the max available current. If it's not
sufficient at a jack, but is at the demark; there must be a bad
splice in the IW. And measuring the voltage with a open circuit is
sorta pointless.

--
A host is a host from coast to coast.................wb8foz@nrk.com
& no one will talk to a host that's close........[v].(301) 56-LINUX
Unless the host (that isn't close).........................pob 1433
is busy, hung or dead....................................20915-1433

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Ripped speaker grill
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/d0f91f3c190e10dd?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Wed, Aug 11 2010 8:52 pm
From: JR North

http://www.seanet.com/~jasonrnorth/sp1.html
JR

On Tue, 10 Aug 2010 11:47:17 +0100, "N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk>
wrote:

>Someone asked me if I knew how to do an invisible/near invisible repair. So
>far I've never been in that situation but it could easily happen. Anyone
>successfully repaired one? I've a few ideas but nothing tried. Assume fancy
>tinsel stranded, open weave mesh fabric, unobtanium exact match new fabric
>to the original.
>

==============================================================================

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