sci.electronics.repair - 25 new messages in 7 topics - digest

sci.electronics.repair
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair?hl=en

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Today's topics:

* Beyond AWG - 4 messages, 3 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/6108ec0943f8d321?hl=en
* motherboard cpu power section check - 7 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/8e229a340dc9519b?hl=en
* TV Power Cord - 5 messages, 4 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/58b460c2437269b4?hl=en
* Technics SA-310 Intermittent Weak Left Channel - 6 messages, 4 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/24c0d76fe3922429?hl=en
* Grain-of-wheat bulbs - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/80801ab1fbd67e8f?hl=en
* Cheap Coach Handbags GUCCI Handbags china Wholesaler(http://www.24
hoursneakers.com/) (PayPal Payment) - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/f97f0320fe7c29ad?hl=en
* Thomas T. Cogswell - BLACKMAILER - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/fcc0381378db0cc1?hl=en

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Beyond AWG
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/6108ec0943f8d321?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 4 ==
Date: Sun, Aug 15 2010 9:32 pm
From: "tm"

"Paul Hovnanian P.E." <Paul@Hovnanian.com> wrote in message
news:4C68B39E.1BDB6434@Hovnanian.com...
>I have a d'Arsonval meter movement to repair. The voltage coil has a
> number of breaks and will have to be rewound. After removing the old
> coil, I measured the wire diameter. It appears to be copper, about 1.8
> mil in diameter over the enamel insulation.
>
> Thats down below the AWG chart I've got. 40 AWG is 3.14 mils. Anyone
> have a link to a chart that goes down to 45 AWG? And does anyone have a
> link to a supplier (with specs) of this size wire? Since I'm measuring
> the diameter over enamel, it would be better to compare what I've got to
> finished magnet wire specs.
>
> --
> Paul Hovnanian mailto:Paul@Hovnanian.com
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> I bet the human brain is a kludge. -- Marvin Minsky

And this might be a source.

http://www.sandvik.com/sandvik/0971/internet/s003237.nsf/genframe?openagent&uid=19ed0bb9dba82803c12573f500324029

--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: news@netfront.net ---

== 2 of 4 ==
Date: Mon, Aug 16 2010 6:44 am
From: Smitty Two

In article <4C68B39E.1BDB6434@Hovnanian.com>,
"Paul Hovnanian P.E." <Paul@Hovnanian.com> wrote:

> I have a d'Arsonval meter movement to repair. The voltage coil has a
> number of breaks and will have to be rewound. After removing the old
> coil, I measured the wire diameter. It appears to be copper, about 1.8
> mil in diameter over the enamel insulation.
>
> Thats down below the AWG chart I've got. 40 AWG is 3.14 mils. Anyone
> have a link to a chart that goes down to 45 AWG? And does anyone have a
> link to a supplier (with specs) of this size wire? Since I'm measuring
> the diameter over enamel, it would be better to compare what I've got to
> finished magnet wire specs.

This is where I buy magnet wire for guitar pickups and such, and they
have a good deal of reference data including diameters of bare copper
and insulated copper of various types. If you really want an accurate
measure of what you have, I recommend a good toolroom micrometer. I'm
not using "toolroom" carelessly, but to make a distinction between that
and a shop micrometer.

http://www.mwswire.com/

== 3 of 4 ==
Date: Mon, Aug 16 2010 10:19 am
From: "Paul Hovnanian P.E."

Smitty Two wrote:

> In article <4C68B39E.1BDB6434@Hovnanian.com>,
> "Paul Hovnanian P.E." <Paul@Hovnanian.com> wrote:
>
>> I have a d'Arsonval meter movement to repair. The voltage coil has a
>> number of breaks and will have to be rewound. After removing the old
>> coil, I measured the wire diameter. It appears to be copper, about 1.8
>> mil in diameter over the enamel insulation.
>>
>> Thats down below the AWG chart I've got. 40 AWG is 3.14 mils. Anyone
>> have a link to a chart that goes down to 45 AWG? And does anyone have a
>> link to a supplier (with specs) of this size wire? Since I'm measuring
>> the diameter over enamel, it would be better to compare what I've got to
>> finished magnet wire specs.
>
> This is where I buy magnet wire for guitar pickups and such, and they
> have a good deal of reference data including diameters of bare copper
> and insulated copper of various types. If you really want an accurate
> measure of what you have, I recommend a good toolroom micrometer. I'm
> not using "toolroom" carelessly, but to make a distinction between that
> and a shop micrometer.
>
> http://www.mwswire.com/

Thanks (to everyone) for the links and info. What I've got appears to be AWG
45. As Grant suggested, its possible to use a slightly different wire size
than the original. As long as several parameters remain close to the
original. The voltage winding is self supporting (not wound on a form) and
swings in free space. All I've got to do is keep the ampere turns and coil
area close to the original. I can tweak the accuracy by trimming a couple
of series resistors (part of the original design) once its fixed.

The biggest problem is going to be counting 1800 turns! I can make a jig to
wind this on my bench lathe and incorporate a magnet/Hall sensor to advance
a counter.

--
Paul Hovnanian paul@hovnanian.com
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Have gnu, will travel.

== 4 of 4 ==
Date: Mon, Aug 16 2010 10:23 am
From: "Paul Hovnanian P.E."

Jeff Liebermann wrote:

> On Sun, 15 Aug 2010 20:42:22 -0700, "Paul Hovnanian P.E."
> <Paul@Hovnanian.com> wrote:
>
>>I have a d'Arsonval meter movement to repair. The voltage coil has a
>>number of breaks and will have to be rewound. After removing the old
>>coil, I measured the wire diameter. It appears to be copper, about 1.8
>>mil in diameter over the enamel insulation.
>>
>>Thats down below the AWG chart I've got. 40 AWG is 3.14 mils. Anyone
>>have a link to a chart that goes down to 45 AWG? And does anyone have a
>>link to a supplier (with specs) of this size wire? Since I'm measuring
>>the diameter over enamel, it would be better to compare what I've got to
>>finished magnet wire specs.
>
> <http://www.mwswire.com>
>
<http://www.mwswire.com/pdf_files/mws_tech_book/copper_magnet_wire_data.pdf>
> They have insulated wire down to #55 AWG.
>
> Hint: Use a microscope with a wire gauge reticle.
>
> I'm impressed that you're still able to do such fine work. My
> eyesight and manual dexterity are slowly disappearing as I get older.
>
I can see this stuff just fine with magnifying glasses. I just have trouble
not breaking itty-bitty little wires with hands that have spent years
wrenching on rusty wrecks and splitting wood.

--
Paul Hovnanian paul@hovnanian.com
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Have gnu, will travel.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: motherboard cpu power section check
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/8e229a340dc9519b?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 7 ==
Date: Mon, Aug 16 2010 1:17 am
From: Mike De Petris

On Aug 15, 6:46 pm, Meat Plow <mhyw...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> On Sun, 15 Aug 2010 09:25:04 -0700, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
> > On Sun, 15 Aug 2010 15:13:09 +0000 (UTC), Meat Plow <mhyw...@yahoo.com>
> > wrote:
>
> >>Is that a dual core CPU or hyperthreaded single core.
>
> > 1.73GHz Intel Core 2 Duo Mobile T5300
>
> Ok it's got two cores. Reason I asked was disabling say a 2 ghz single
> core HT CPU can acutally boost performance. When in HT mode the RAM and
> the CPU process at 1 ghz.

After the "cpu disabled trick" worked well for hours, with laptop
running and restarting with it PSU, I had no more luck. The day after
it didn't start as before. Tried the trick again, I even disabled both
cpus in devmgmt but no luck. Used an hardware monitoring program to
investigate situation but nothing helps, only curious thing is that
trying to access ACPI temperature values the pc suddenly powered down.

Even when all seems running weel on battery, or "fake battery" with
12V PSU, the pc freezes at a point in some conditions that I still
have to determine, but to me this shows it's an hardware fault.
When running on normal PSU in Windows 7 I tried to change the options
for the power/tilt/sleep buttons and the pc freezed, and that was when
it didn't worked any more that way. Power buttons options can be
changed without problem running on battery.
On battery the pc can run for hours, but it seems that stressing it a
bit and leaving it alone leads to a freeze or a sudden power down,
maybe when the power management decides to do something, something
that I cannot know as I simply find the pc hanging on or completely
powered off.

I must check the motherboard, but except for ONE capacitor in the
power section that is 3 or 4 mm big (and still smd) all others are
small SMD, and you can just identify them by being marked C<number> as
I think all resistors are R<number>.

The problem is I need to find a day with plenty of time, as to test
those capacitors needs to unweld them with hot air check and solder
them again, and they are soooo small... there are smd three-legs
transistor components too, but I do not think I would be able to check
them.

Maybe I should start with the few fuses and resistors as they can be
checked in place to see if they are opened, at least.

== 2 of 7 ==
Date: Mon, Aug 16 2010 5:45 am
From: Meat Plow

On Mon, 16 Aug 2010 01:17:03 -0700, Mike De Petris wrote:

> On Aug 15, 6:46 pm, Meat Plow <mhyw...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>> On Sun, 15 Aug 2010 09:25:04 -0700, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
>> > On Sun, 15 Aug 2010 15:13:09 +0000 (UTC), Meat Plow
>> > <mhyw...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>>
>> >>Is that a dual core CPU or hyperthreaded single core.
>>
>> > 1.73GHz Intel Core 2 Duo Mobile T5300
>>
>> Ok it's got two cores. Reason I asked was disabling say a 2 ghz single
>> core HT CPU can acutally boost performance. When in HT mode the RAM and
>> the CPU process at 1 ghz.
>
> After the "cpu disabled trick" worked well for hours, with laptop
> running and restarting with it PSU, I had no more luck. The day after it
> didn't start as before. Tried the trick again, I even disabled both cpus
> in devmgmt but no luck. Used an hardware monitoring program to
> investigate situation but nothing helps, only curious thing is that
> trying to access ACPI temperature values the pc suddenly powered down.
>
> Even when all seems running weel on battery, or "fake battery" with 12V
> PSU, the pc freezes at a point in some conditions that I still have to
> determine, but to me this shows it's an hardware fault. When running on
> normal PSU in Windows 7 I tried to change the options for the
> power/tilt/sleep buttons and the pc freezed, and that was when it didn't
> worked any more that way. Power buttons options can be changed without
> problem running on battery. On battery the pc can run for hours, but it
> seems that stressing it a bit and leaving it alone leads to a freeze or
> a sudden power down, maybe when the power management decides to do
> something, something that I cannot know as I simply find the pc hanging
> on or completely powered off.
>
> I must check the motherboard, but except for ONE capacitor in the power
> section that is 3 or 4 mm big (and still smd) all others are small SMD,
> and you can just identify them by being marked C<number> as I think all
> resistors are R<number>.
>
> The problem is I need to find a day with plenty of time, as to test
> those capacitors needs to unweld them with hot air check and solder them
> again, and they are soooo small... there are smd three-legs transistor
> components too, but I do not think I would be able to check them.
>
> Maybe I should start with the few fuses and resistors as they can be
> checked in place to see if they are opened, at least.

You seem to have a decent strategy in place. Have you thought about
installing a software program that can monitor CPU core and other
voltages? I've used Motherboard Monitor on desktops, it may work on your
Intel based board. And it's a free utility.

http://www.softpedia.com/get/System/System-Info/Motherboard-Monitor.shtml

All motherboards have some sensors and/or other ACPI based sensors.

--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

== 3 of 7 ==
Date: Mon, Aug 16 2010 6:28 am
From: Mike De Petris

On Aug 16, 2:45 pm, Meat Plow <mhyw...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> On Mon, 16 Aug 2010 01:17:03 -0700, Mike De Petris wrote:
> > On Aug 15, 6:46 pm, Meat Plow <mhyw...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> >> On Sun, 15 Aug 2010 09:25:04 -0700, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
> >> > On Sun, 15 Aug 2010 15:13:09 +0000 (UTC), Meat Plow
> >> > <mhyw...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> >> >>Is that a dual core CPU or hyperthreaded single core.
>
> >> > 1.73GHz Intel Core 2 Duo Mobile T5300
>
> >> Ok it's got two cores. Reason I asked was disabling say a 2 ghz single
> >> core HT CPU can acutally boost performance. When in HT mode the RAM and
> >> the CPU process at 1 ghz.
>
> > After the "cpu disabled trick" worked well for hours, with laptop
> > running and restarting with it PSU, I had no more luck. The day after it
> > didn't start as before. Tried the trick again, I even disabled both cpus
> > in devmgmt but no luck. Used an hardware monitoring program to
> > investigate situation but nothing helps, only curious thing is that
> > trying to access ACPI temperature values the pc suddenly powered down.
>
> > Even when all seems running weel on battery, or "fake battery" with 12V
> > PSU, the pc freezes at a point in some conditions that I still have to
> > determine, but to me this shows it's an hardware fault. When running on
> > normal PSU in Windows 7 I tried to change the options for the
> > power/tilt/sleep buttons and the pc freezed, and that was when it didn't
> > worked any more that way. Power buttons options can be changed without
> > problem running on battery. On battery the pc can run for hours, but it
> > seems that stressing it a bit and leaving it alone leads to a freeze or
> > a sudden power down, maybe when the power management decides to do
> > something, something that I cannot know as I simply find the pc hanging
> > on or completely powered off.
>
> > I must check the motherboard, but except for ONE capacitor in the power
> > section that is 3 or 4 mm big (and still smd) all others are small SMD,
> > and you can just identify them by being marked C<number> as I think all
> > resistors are R<number>.
>
> > The problem is I need to find a day with plenty of time, as to test
> > those capacitors needs to unweld them with hot air check and solder them
> > again, and they are soooo small... there are smd three-legs transistor
> > components too, but I do not think I would be able to check them.
>
> > Maybe I should start with the few fuses and resistors as they can be
> > checked in place to see if they are opened, at least.
>
> You seem to have a decent strategy in place. Have you thought about
> installing a software program that can monitor CPU core and other
> voltages? I've used Motherboard Monitor on desktops, it may work on your
> Intel based board. And it's a free utility.
>
> http://www.softpedia.com/get/System/System-Info/Motherboard-Monitor.s...
>
> All motherboards have some sensors and/or other ACPI based sensors.

thank you, I tried one but didn't give me voltages, all other values
are normal, accessing ACPI temperatures leaded to a sudden power off,
will have a try with other monitoring software

in the while I'm also looking a cheap compatible CPU, I am still not
that sure it's a mainboard fault

== 4 of 7 ==
Date: Mon, Aug 16 2010 6:55 am
From: Meat Plow

On Mon, 16 Aug 2010 06:28:47 -0700, Mike De Petris wrote:

> On Aug 16, 2:45 pm, Meat Plow <mhyw...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>> On Mon, 16 Aug 2010 01:17:03 -0700, Mike De Petris wrote:
>> > On Aug 15, 6:46 pm, Meat Plow <mhyw...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>> >> On Sun, 15 Aug 2010 09:25:04 -0700, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
>> >> > On Sun, 15 Aug 2010 15:13:09 +0000 (UTC), Meat Plow
>> >> > <mhyw...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>>
>> >> >>Is that a dual core CPU or hyperthreaded single core.
>>
>> >> > 1.73GHz Intel Core 2 Duo Mobile T5300
>>
>> >> Ok it's got two cores. Reason I asked was disabling say a 2 ghz
>> >> single core HT CPU can acutally boost performance. When in HT mode
>> >> the RAM and the CPU process at 1 ghz.
>>
>> > After the "cpu disabled trick" worked well for hours, with laptop
>> > running and restarting with it PSU, I had no more luck. The day after
>> > it didn't start as before. Tried the trick again, I even disabled
>> > both cpus in devmgmt but no luck. Used an hardware monitoring program
>> > to investigate situation but nothing helps, only curious thing is
>> > that trying to access ACPI temperature values the pc suddenly powered
>> > down.
>>
>> > Even when all seems running weel on battery, or "fake battery" with
>> > 12V PSU, the pc freezes at a point in some conditions that I still
>> > have to determine, but to me this shows it's an hardware fault. When
>> > running on normal PSU in Windows 7 I tried to change the options for
>> > the power/tilt/sleep buttons and the pc freezed, and that was when it
>> > didn't worked any more that way. Power buttons options can be changed
>> > without problem running on battery. On battery the pc can run for
>> > hours, but it seems that stressing it a bit and leaving it alone
>> > leads to a freeze or a sudden power down, maybe when the power
>> > management decides to do something, something that I cannot know as I
>> > simply find the pc hanging on or completely powered off.
>>
>> > I must check the motherboard, but except for ONE capacitor in the
>> > power section that is 3 or 4 mm big (and still smd) all others are
>> > small SMD, and you can just identify them by being marked C<number>
>> > as I think all resistors are R<number>.
>>
>> > The problem is I need to find a day with plenty of time, as to test
>> > those capacitors needs to unweld them with hot air check and solder
>> > them again, and they are soooo small... there are smd three-legs
>> > transistor components too, but I do not think I would be able to
>> > check them.
>>
>> > Maybe I should start with the few fuses and resistors as they can be
>> > checked in place to see if they are opened, at least.
>>
>> You seem to have a decent strategy in place. Have you thought about
>> installing a software program that can monitor CPU core and other
>> voltages? I've used Motherboard Monitor on desktops, it may work on
>> your Intel based board. And it's a free utility.
>>
>> http://www.softpedia.com/get/System/System-Info/Motherboard-
Monitor.s...
>>
>> All motherboards have some sensors and/or other ACPI based sensors.
>
> thank you, I tried one but didn't give me voltages, all other values are
> normal, accessing ACPI temperatures leaded to a sudden power off, will
> have a try with other monitoring software
>
> in the while I'm also looking a cheap compatible CPU, I am still not
> that sure it's a mainboard fault

I'd have to assume that Toshiba still uses a proprietary ACPI interface.
My Satellite 1905-S301 has it's own Toshiba power management console.

I doubt it's the CPU but rather the ACPI hardware. If it is the CPU and
you get a cheap replacement that would be great, I would be wrong and it
wouldn't be the first time.

--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

== 5 of 7 ==
Date: Mon, Aug 16 2010 6:56 am
From: Meat Plow

On Mon, 16 Aug 2010 06:28:47 -0700, Mike De Petris wrote:

I'd have to assume that Toshiba still uses a proprietary ACPI interface.
My Satellite 1905-S301 has it's own Toshiba power management console.

I doubt it's the CPU but rather the ACPI hardware. If it is the CPU and
you get a cheap replacement that would be great, I would be wrong and it
wouldn't be the first time.

--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

== 6 of 7 ==
Date: Mon, Aug 16 2010 7:15 am
From: Mike De Petris

On Aug 16, 3:55 pm, Meat Plow <mhyw...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> On Mon, 16 Aug 2010 06:28:47 -0700, Mike De Petris wrote:
> > On Aug 16, 2:45 pm, Meat Plow <mhyw...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> >> On Mon, 16 Aug 2010 01:17:03 -0700, Mike De Petris wrote:
> >> > On Aug 15, 6:46 pm, Meat Plow <mhyw...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> >> >> On Sun, 15 Aug 2010 09:25:04 -0700, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
> >> >> > On Sun, 15 Aug 2010 15:13:09 +0000 (UTC), Meat Plow
> >> >> > <mhyw...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> >> >> >>Is that a dual core CPU or hyperthreaded single core.
>
> >> >> > 1.73GHz Intel Core 2 Duo Mobile T5300
>
> >> >> Ok it's got two cores. Reason I asked was disabling say a 2 ghz
> >> >> single core HT CPU can acutally boost performance. When in HT mode
> >> >> the RAM and the CPU process at 1 ghz.
>
> >> > After the "cpu disabled trick" worked well for hours, with laptop
> >> > running and restarting with it PSU, I had no more luck. The day after
> >> > it didn't start as before. Tried the trick again, I even disabled
> >> > both cpus in devmgmt but no luck. Used an hardware monitoring program
> >> > to investigate situation but nothing helps, only curious thing is
> >> > that trying to access ACPI temperature values the pc suddenly powered
> >> > down.
>
> >> > Even when all seems running weel on battery, or "fake battery" with
> >> > 12V PSU, the pc freezes at a point in some conditions that I still
> >> > have to determine, but to me this shows it's an hardware fault. When
> >> > running on normal PSU in Windows 7 I tried to change the options for
> >> > the power/tilt/sleep buttons and the pc freezed, and that was when it
> >> > didn't worked any more that way. Power buttons options can be changed
> >> > without problem running on battery. On battery the pc can run for
> >> > hours, but it seems that stressing it a bit and leaving it alone
> >> > leads to a freeze or a sudden power down, maybe when the power
> >> > management decides to do something, something that I cannot know as I
> >> > simply find the pc hanging on or completely powered off.
>
> >> > I must check the motherboard, but except for ONE capacitor in the
> >> > power section that is 3 or 4 mm big (and still smd) all others are
> >> > small SMD, and you can just identify them by being marked C<number>
> >> > as I think all resistors are R<number>.
>
> >> > The problem is I need to find a day with plenty of time, as to test
> >> > those capacitors needs to unweld them with hot air check and solder
> >> > them again, and they are soooo small... there are smd three-legs
> >> > transistor components too, but I do not think I would be able to
> >> > check them.
>
> >> > Maybe I should start with the few fuses and resistors as they can be
> >> > checked in place to see if they are opened, at least.
>
> >> You seem to have a decent strategy in place. Have you thought about
> >> installing a software program that can monitor CPU core and other
> >> voltages? I've used Motherboard Monitor on desktops, it may work on
> >> your Intel based board. And it's a free utility.
>
> >>http://www.softpedia.com/get/System/System-Info/Motherboard-
> Monitor.s...
>
> >> All motherboards have some sensors and/or other ACPI based sensors.
>
> > thank you, I tried one but didn't give me voltages, all other values are
> > normal, accessing ACPI temperatures leaded to a sudden power off, will
> > have a try with other monitoring software
>
> > in the while I'm also looking a cheap compatible CPU, I am still not
> > that sure it's a mainboard fault
>
> I'd have to assume that Toshiba still uses a proprietary ACPI interface.
> My Satellite 1905-S301 has it's own Toshiba power management console.
>
> I doubt it's the CPU but rather the ACPI hardware. If it is the CPU and
> you get a cheap replacement that would be great, I would be wrong and it
> wouldn't be the first time.

I will give it a try as I found a cheap CPU, I'll test it and will
resell it in case, but at least I will be sure mine is ok.

As "ACPI hardware" seems to be guilty, where should I look for on the
motherboard and what should I check first? There are so many small
capacitors around... may it be a custom chip?

== 7 of 7 ==
Date: Mon, Aug 16 2010 9:51 am
From: Meat Plow

On Mon, 16 Aug 2010 07:15:02 -0700, Mike De Petris wrote:

> On Aug 16, 3:55 pm, Meat Plow <mhyw...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>> On Mon, 16 Aug 2010 06:28:47 -0700, Mike De Petris wrote:
>> > On Aug 16, 2:45 pm, Meat Plow <mhyw...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>> >> On Mon, 16 Aug 2010 01:17:03 -0700, Mike De Petris wrote:
>> >> > On Aug 15, 6:46 pm, Meat Plow <mhyw...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>> >> >> On Sun, 15 Aug 2010 09:25:04 -0700, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
>> >> >> > On Sun, 15 Aug 2010 15:13:09 +0000 (UTC), Meat Plow
>> >> >> > <mhyw...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>>
>> >> >> >>Is that a dual core CPU or hyperthreaded single core.
>>
>> >> >> > 1.73GHz Intel Core 2 Duo Mobile T5300
>>
>> >> >> Ok it's got two cores. Reason I asked was disabling say a 2 ghz
>> >> >> single core HT CPU can acutally boost performance. When in HT
>> >> >> mode the RAM and the CPU process at 1 ghz.
>>
>> >> > After the "cpu disabled trick" worked well for hours, with laptop
>> >> > running and restarting with it PSU, I had no more luck. The day
>> >> > after it didn't start as before. Tried the trick again, I even
>> >> > disabled both cpus in devmgmt but no luck. Used an hardware
>> >> > monitoring program to investigate situation but nothing helps,
>> >> > only curious thing is that trying to access ACPI temperature
>> >> > values the pc suddenly powered down.
>>
>> >> > Even when all seems running weel on battery, or "fake battery"
>> >> > with 12V PSU, the pc freezes at a point in some conditions that I
>> >> > still have to determine, but to me this shows it's an hardware
>> >> > fault. When running on normal PSU in Windows 7 I tried to change
>> >> > the options for the power/tilt/sleep buttons and the pc freezed,
>> >> > and that was when it didn't worked any more that way. Power
>> >> > buttons options can be changed without problem running on battery.
>> >> > On battery the pc can run for hours, but it seems that stressing
>> >> > it a bit and leaving it alone leads to a freeze or a sudden power
>> >> > down, maybe when the power management decides to do something,
>> >> > something that I cannot know as I simply find the pc hanging on or
>> >> > completely powered off.
>>
>> >> > I must check the motherboard, but except for ONE capacitor in the
>> >> > power section that is 3 or 4 mm big (and still smd) all others are
>> >> > small SMD, and you can just identify them by being marked
>> >> > C<number> as I think all resistors are R<number>.
>>
>> >> > The problem is I need to find a day with plenty of time, as to
>> >> > test those capacitors needs to unweld them with hot air check and
>> >> > solder them again, and they are soooo small... there are smd
>> >> > three-legs transistor components too, but I do not think I would
>> >> > be able to check them.
>>
>> >> > Maybe I should start with the few fuses and resistors as they can
>> >> > be checked in place to see if they are opened, at least.
>>
>> >> You seem to have a decent strategy in place. Have you thought about
>> >> installing a software program that can monitor CPU core and other
>> >> voltages? I've used Motherboard Monitor on desktops, it may work on
>> >> your Intel based board. And it's a free utility.
>>
>> >>http://www.softpedia.com/get/System/System-Info/Motherboard-
>> Monitor.s...
>>
>> >> All motherboards have some sensors and/or other ACPI based sensors.
>>
>> > thank you, I tried one but didn't give me voltages, all other values
>> > are normal, accessing ACPI temperatures leaded to a sudden power off,
>> > will have a try with other monitoring software
>>
>> > in the while I'm also looking a cheap compatible CPU, I am still not
>> > that sure it's a mainboard fault
>>
>> I'd have to assume that Toshiba still uses a proprietary ACPI
>> interface. My Satellite 1905-S301 has it's own Toshiba power management
>> console.
>>
>> I doubt it's the CPU but rather the ACPI hardware. If it is the CPU and
>> you get a cheap replacement that would be great, I would be wrong and
>> it wouldn't be the first time.
>
> I will give it a try as I found a cheap CPU, I'll test it and will
> resell it in case, but at least I will be sure mine is ok.
>
> As "ACPI hardware" seems to be guilty, where should I look for on the
> motherboard and what should I check first? There are so many small
> capacitors around... may it be a custom chip?

Good question. Maybe a program like Belarc Advisor could tell you what
device(s) is/are responsible. I think it's another freeware app so you
may check it out.

--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

==============================================================================
TOPIC: TV Power Cord
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/58b460c2437269b4?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 5 ==
Date: Mon, Aug 16 2010 4:14 am
From: "Mark Zacharias"

"Samuel M. Goldwasser" <sam@repairfaq.org> wrote in message
news:uk4nrii6w.fsf@repairfaq.org...
> Meat Plow <mhywatt@yahoo.com> writes:
>
>> On Sat, 14 Aug 2010 18:31:06 -0500, NF wrote:
>>
>> > Hi,
>> >
>> > I just had a shop replace the power cord on a Sony KV-27FS100L tube TV.
>> > (An in home service call.) The guy who did the repair said that the
>> > connector on the replacement cord which connects to the board is not an
>> > exact fit, but is the closest they had and will work. (And yes, the TV
>> > does work). But because the connector is not as tight fitting as the
>> > original, the repair guy said it is very important to have very good
>> > strain relief to avoid tension on the cord. (I was not home when it was
>> > repaired, this is what I was told by the person who was home.) However,
>> > when I got home, I found that the repair guy did not put a strain
>> > relief
>> > device in the hole where the cord is supposed to exit the TV. Instead,
>> > he deliberately wedged the cord between where the bottom and back parts
>> > of the case meet. This was his idea for strain relief. (The original
>> > hole where the cord used to exit is now just an empty hole.)
>> >
>> > Problem is, the wedged cord causes the case not to fit together
>> > properly. The bottom is now uneven, so the TV sits a little bit
>> > crooked.
>> > If you lift up the back of the TV, you can see the bottom bulging out
>> > on
>> > one side, looking like it's going to break the plastic tab. My other
>> > concern is that the cord is wedged between a protrusion of the bottom
>> > and the back case, so the 100lbs of weight from this TV is now pinching
>> > this cord. So my questions are:
>> >
>> > Is this safe? Can this pinch the cord enough to damage the internal
>> > conductors or cord insulation? This TV literally weighs 100 pounds.
>> >
>> > Is this really a stronger strain relief than just obtaining a strain
>> > relief device for the hole the cord is supposed to exit through?
>> >
>> > The shop was contacted, and asked if the proper replacement cord could
>> > be obtained, even if we have to pay extra for the cord itself. (As long
>> > as we are not charged for another service call or more labor.) The shop
>> > called back after a day and said the exact replacement cord is no
>> > longer
>> > available, and they don't have access to any. They said they'd get back
>> > to us later, they haven't yet.
>> >
>> > If the cord isn't available, should they at least be able to get a
>> > strain relief device to fit the hole so the cord isn't wedged in
>> > between
>> > the case parts? And would such a strain relief be strong enough even
>> > though the connector on the board doesn't fit as tight as the original?
>> >
>> > Thanks
>>
>> Keep a class ABC fire extinguisher handy and you should be ok.
>
> To answer the poster's question. It is the responsibility of the shop
> to perform a safe repair. What you describe may or may not be safe but
> is certainly not professional.
>
> Insist that they either install a properly fitting cord or if indeed it
> isn't made any longer (which sounds suspect but I don't know how old
> the set is), then there are various workarounds they could have done
> that would have been both safe and looked decent cosmetically.
>
> It sounds like they just wanted to get away with the simplest fastest
> repair possible without regard to how safe it was or how it looked.
>
> --
> sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/
> Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
> +Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
> | Mirror Sites: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html
>
> Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above
> is
> ignored unless my full name AND either lasers or electronics is included
> in the
> subject line. Or, you can contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.

The part number is 1-824-069-11 and has been discontinued by Sony, although
it is possible a Sony servicer in your area may have one or a similar one
laying around.

The strain relief is molded and cannot really be substituted.

I would ask the servicer to re-do his "strain relief" to allow the set to
sit correctly, show you exactly what was done this time and explain how this
is a safe fix. It may be fine but there are just so many inadequate and
unsafe repairs of this type. From what I read - I don't trust it.

Mark Z.

== 2 of 5 ==
Date: Mon, Aug 16 2010 6:34 am
From: "Geoffrey S. Mendelson"

Mark Zacharias wrote:
> I would ask the servicer to re-do his "strain relief" to allow the set to
> sit correctly, show you exactly what was done this time and explain how this
> is a safe fix. It may be fine but there are just so many inadequate and
> unsafe repairs of this type. From what I read - I don't trust it.

The safestway to do it would have been to cut off the plug, tie an
electrician's knot on it to act as a strain relief and then thread it out
through the hole the old cord used and then connect the inside
end to the TV set.

If an electrician's knot was not practical, I would have made a large regular
knot and on the side that went against the case, use a large nylon cable tie
to act as a buffer.

The I would have put a plug on it.

The problem with that, is the moment he does anything besides put a Sony
cord on it, or modifies the cord in any way, he exposes himself and his
employer to liability so without signing a release, you probably got the
best you could get in the US. (assuming you are in the US)

A less dangerous (legally) fix would have been to enlarge the hole so
that the plug could go out, and then it would need an awfully large knot
to act as a strain relief. There also would be the possibility that
unless he covered it up, someone could poke a finger or stick into the
hole and get electrocuted.

Geoff.
--
Geoffrey S. Mendelson N3OWJ/4X1GM
To help restaurants, as part of the "stimulus package", everyone must order
dessert. As part of the socialized health plan, you are forbidden to eat it. :-)

== 3 of 5 ==
Date: Mon, Aug 16 2010 6:57 am
From: Smitty Two

In article <slrni6ifb5.vtu.gsm@cable.mendelson.com>,
"Geoffrey S. Mendelson" <gsm@mendelson.com> wrote:

> the moment he does anything besides put a Sony
> cord on it, or modifies the cord in any way, he exposes himself and his
> employer to liability so without signing a release, you probably got the
> best you could get in the US. (assuming you are in the US)

And you don't think that jamming the cord between the two halves of the
case exposes him to liability? The repairman is a fucking hack, that's
all there is to it. I'd demand that the owner of the shop make it right
at his expense. Is there a professional repair person on a.h.r. that
actually thinks the repair as described is in any way acceptable?

== 4 of 5 ==
Date: Mon, Aug 16 2010 7:15 am
From: Smitty Two

In article
<prestwhich-0912AC.06573816082010@news.eternal-september.org>,
Smitty Two <prestwhich@earthlink.net> wrote:

>
> And you don't think that jamming the cord between the two halves of the
> case exposes him to liability? The repairman is a fucking hack, that's
> all there is to it. I'd demand that the owner of the shop make it right
> at his expense. Is there a professional repair person on a.h.r. that
> actually thinks the repair as described is in any way acceptable?

Force of habit; make that s.e.r., of course ...

== 5 of 5 ==
Date: Mon, Aug 16 2010 7:58 am
From: "Michael A. Terrell"

"Samuel M. Goldwasser" wrote:
>
> To answer the poster's question. It is the responsibility of the shop
> to perform a safe repair. What you describe may or may not be safe but
> is certainly not professional.
>
> Insist that they either install a properly fitting cord or if indeed it
> isn't made any longer (which sounds suspect but I don't know how old
> the set is), then there are various workarounds they could have done
> that would have been both safe and looked decent cosmetically.
>
> It sounds like they just wanted to get away with the simplest fastest
> repair possible without regard to how safe it was or how it looked.

If the original is no longer available, I would have installed a
common IEC connector and trimmed the opening to all a standard cord to
be plugged in. Both are easy to find, even if you have to strip the
connector from a computer power supply.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Technics SA-310 Intermittent Weak Left Channel
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/24c0d76fe3922429?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 6 ==
Date: Mon, Aug 16 2010 4:18 am
From: "Mark Zacharias"

"William R. Walsh" <newsgroups1@idontwantjunqueemail.walshcomptech.com>
wrote in message news:Tb-dnXWkarbnCfXRnZ2dnUVZ_qSdnZ2d@mchsi.com...
> Hi!
>
>> Measure the B+ at the output stage on the suspect channel as you apply a
>> 1khz sine wave from min to max output and report back.
>
> I don't have any way of doing that. Any other ideas for a test that would
> produce a similar result?
>
> William
>

Could be dirty controls, but it really sounds like maybe a bad output IC to
me. Do try pushing turning wiggling etc the various controls and switches
and see if any of them affect your problem. Maybe not much else you can do.

Mark Z.

== 2 of 6 ==
Date: Mon, Aug 16 2010 5:36 am
From: Meat Plow

On Sun, 15 Aug 2010 20:29:55 -0500, William R. Walsh wrote:

> Hi!
>
>> Measure the B+ at the output stage on the suspect channel as you apply
>> a 1khz sine wave from min to max output and report back.
>
> I don't have any way of doing that. Any other ideas for a test that
> would produce a similar result?
>
> William

None I can think of other than using an alternative audio source like an
FM tuner or tape playback to generate signal and monitor the rail
voltages with an analog meter or digital with a logarithmic display.
If it falls more than say 10% at full volume you may have an issue with
the rail supply. That's about it, can't help more if you don't have a
minimal amount of test gear like an audio generator and volt meter.

--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

== 3 of 6 ==
Date: Mon, Aug 16 2010 9:36 am
From: "Arfa Daily"

"Mark Zacharias" <mark_zacharias@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
news:4c691e79$0$14508$c3e8da3@news.astraweb.com...
> "William R. Walsh" <newsgroups1@idontwantjunqueemail.walshcomptech.com>
> wrote in message news:Tb-dnXWkarbnCfXRnZ2dnUVZ_qSdnZ2d@mchsi.com...
>> Hi!
>>
>>> Measure the B+ at the output stage on the suspect channel as you apply a
>>> 1khz sine wave from min to max output and report back.
>>
>> I don't have any way of doing that. Any other ideas for a test that would
>> produce a similar result?
>>
>> William
>>
>
> Could be dirty controls, but it really sounds like maybe a bad output IC
> to me. Do try pushing turning wiggling etc the various controls and
> switches and see if any of them affect your problem. Maybe not much else
> you can do.
>
> Mark Z.

As Mark says, but I would also feel inclined to check the soldering on the
output devices, as Pans and Technics are buggers for bad joints on any
heatsink-attached devices, on virtually any models.

Arfa

== 4 of 6 ==
Date: Mon, Aug 16 2010 9:49 am
From: "William R. Walsh"

Hi!

> As Mark says, but I would also feel inclined to check the soldering on the
> output devices, as Pans and Technics are buggers for bad joints on any
> heatsink-attached devices, on virtually any models.

I did try playing through all the sources and they're all equally affected.
Output from the Tape REC connection is clean and undistorted. The controls
on the unit are clean and in good shape, push buttons and sliders alike.

I've noticed bad soldering in these units. I was in the SA-560 at first to
fix the nonworking indicator LEDs in the front panel. What little solder
there was on the ones that didn't work just vaporized when I touched it. My
SA-929 had bad soldering on its protection relay coil connections. I also
have a Technics equalizer where many of the indicator lights above the
pushbuttons didn't work...and it was the same thing.

So I'll take a look. It would be nice to get the unit running like it should
again, and I would hope that I don't have to replace the STK2038 II module.
There's a replacement on eBay but it's listed as a "generic" part and I'm
not sure how I feel about that. I would have reservations about its quality
or ability to meet specifications.

William

== 5 of 6 ==
Date: Mon, Aug 16 2010 9:56 am
From: "William R. Walsh"

Hi!

> None I can think of other than using an alternative audio source like an
> FM tuner or tape playback to generate signal and monitor the rail
> voltages with an analog meter or digital with a logarithmic display.
> If it falls more than say 10% at full volume you may have an issue with
> the rail supply. That's about it, can't help more if you don't have a
> minimal amount of test gear like an audio generator and volt meter.

I do have an analog multimeter (if I can find it!) that would probably do.
What I don't have is any sort of an audio signal generator. It did occur to
me that I have some various audio frequency sweeps and the like stored on my
computer, but I don't know if there are any fixed frequency samples in
there.

My intention is to perform some checks on the power supply. I did notice
what looked like dimming or blanking from the tuning display during loud
passages in the music. It was so brief that I could not be sure.

William

== 6 of 6 ==
Date: Mon, Aug 16 2010 10:29 am
From: Meat Plow

On Mon, 16 Aug 2010 11:56:51 -0500, William R. Walsh wrote:

> Hi!
>
>> None I can think of other than using an alternative audio source like
>> an FM tuner or tape playback to generate signal and monitor the rail
>> voltages with an analog meter or digital with a logarithmic display. If
>> it falls more than say 10% at full volume you may have an issue with
>> the rail supply. That's about it, can't help more if you don't have a
>> minimal amount of test gear like an audio generator and volt meter.
>
> I do have an analog multimeter (if I can find it!) that would probably
> do. What I don't have is any sort of an audio signal generator. It did
> occur to me that I have some various audio frequency sweeps and the like
> stored on my computer, but I don't know if there are any fixed frequency
> samples in there.
>
> My intention is to perform some checks on the power supply. I did notice
> what looked like dimming or blanking from the tuning display during loud
> passages in the music. It was so brief that I could not be sure.
>
> William

Basically you want to put a load on the power supply. Any way you can get
the volume up so you can observe the drop, if any, in voltage on the rail
could help you. Personally I haven't seen a lot of standard pass-filtered
supplies dip in voltage drastically enough to weaken the output of the
channel significantly and intermittently as in your case. I'd be looking
for a lose connection first.

--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Grain-of-wheat bulbs
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/80801ab1fbd67e8f?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Mon, Aug 16 2010 4:20 am
From: "Mark Zacharias"

"Paul Hovnanian P.E." <Paul@Hovnanian.com> wrote in message
news:4C68AE9C.5AFCA9AF@Hovnanian.com...
> David Nebenzahl wrote:
>>
>> On 7/29/2010 11:07 AM Paul Hovnanian P.E. spake thus:
>>
>> > I'm looking for a couple of these to repair some (antique) equipment.
>> > They
>> > should be 1.5V, about 30mA and produce a relatively 'white' light at
>> > this
>> > current. Some Radio Shack 6V, 100mA bulbs draw approximately the
>> > correct
>> > current at 1.5V, but they are too reddish and dim to be of any use.
>> >
>> > These are used in an old photographic light meter as a null indicator.
>> > LEDs
>> > won't work at this voltage level (too dim and no where near linear
>> > brightness vs voltage).
>>
>> Is that meter by any chance a Gossen? the type with two bulbs that light
>> up equally bright when the dial is adjusted correctly? I had one of
>> those when I was a kid. Luna Pro?
>
> Yes.
>
> One lamp is burned out. I measured the voltage and lamp current of the
> good one. I'll be replacing both of them (just to keep the differential
> circuit properly balanced).
>
> --
> Paul Hovnanian mailto:Paul@Hovnanian.com
> ------------------------------------------------------------------
> c (velocity of light in a vacuum) = 1.8x10^12 furlongs per fortnight

Model train hobby shops carry all sorts of small lamps. Might give one of
them a try.

Mark Z.

==============================================================================
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http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/f97f0320fe7c29ad?hl=en
==============================================================================

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TOPIC: Thomas T. Cogswell - BLACKMAILER
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/fcc0381378db0cc1?hl=en
==============================================================================

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