sci.electronics.repair - 25 new messages in 11 topics - digest

sci.electronics.repair
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair?hl=en

sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Today's topics:

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Yet another bulging-capacitors replacement
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/3ec97de65fce9bb3?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 7 ==
Date: Fri, Aug 27 2010 8:19 pm
From: Jeff Liebermann

On Sat, 28 Aug 2010 02:04:07 +0100, "Arfa Daily"
<arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote:

>Thanks for the insights Jeff.

There was quite a bit of "Learn By Destroying(tm)" involved. Measuring
flatness and thermal resistance were a major exercise, but settled all
kinds of lab arguments.

Incidentally, you might be interested in how Arctic Silver works.
<http://www.arcticsilver.com/products.htm>
<http://www.arcticsilver.com/msds.htm>
Silver has a much higher thermal conductivity (410 W/m*K) as compared
to zinc oxide (21 W/m*K) and aluminum oxide (30 W/m*K) which is what's
in common thermal compound.
<http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_thermal_conductivities>
However, if your shove an ohms-guesser into a puddle of Arctic Silver,
it's not conductive. That's because the particles of silver are so
far and few, that the bulk of the solution is polyolester or mineral
oil, which insulates the particles from each other, preventing mutual
contact. However, if you tear apart a CPU/heatsink that's been used
for a while, you'll notice that the Arctic Silver is a thick and dense
paste which is conductive. What has happened is that the polyol ester
mixture has evaporated sufficiently to provide contact between
particles. Since thermal conductivity is best through the silver
particles, the result is a superior thermal connection, with the
sliver particles filling the voids. You could do the same thing with
silver dust, but it would difficult to handle and apply. Meanwhile,
ordinary silicon grease does the same thing, but there's a difference.
The oil does not evaporate as easily, and the ceramic particles are
much larger and less compressible than the silver particles. Fewer
points of contact and lower thermal conductivity of ceramic, means a
worse thermal connection.

>All interesting stuff. These are dedicated
>games machines, not based on a PC in any way. The power supply is specced to
>deliver 12v at 23 amps, yes, that's twenty three amps ...
>
>Almost all of this is potentially going into these two processors, so not
>far off 300 watts between them. No mean task shifting the heat off them !

I don't believe it. The winner of the power hogging consumer CPU
contest was the DEC/Intel Alpha 21364 (EV79):
<http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alpha_21364>
which burned 155 watts. Itanium II came close with 130 watts (per
core). I had an Alpha CPU machine to play with for a while, which
would burn my hand from the hot air coming out the back.

If you have a power line wattmeter or a Kill-A-Watt meter, I think a
measurement would be helpful.

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

== 2 of 7 ==
Date: Sat, Aug 28 2010 1:47 am
From: "Arfa Daily"

>> Thanks for the insights Jeff. All interesting stuff. These are
>> dedicated games machines, not based on a PC in any way. The power
>> supply is specced to deliver 12v at 23 amps, yes, that's twenty three
>> amps ...
>>
>> Almost all of this is potentially going into these two processors, so
>> not far off 300 watts between them. No mean task shifting the heat off
>> them !
>>
>> Arfa
>>
>>
>
> what processors(microprocessors?) run at 12V?
> ISTR that today's uPs run mostly on 3.3V
>
> Most other digital logic runs at 5V,I believe.
>
> I think you wil find that most of your power is going into the video drive
> (or LCD backlight) circuitry.
>
> --
> Jim Yanik

Er no. There are no backlights. Or display processor. These are X-Box /
Playstation type boxes. Apart from some support circuitry in IC form - which
admittedly does gobble enough power to make it run hot enough that a degree
of heatsinking to the pcb shielding via thermal pads is required -
everything goes on in a pair of very large BGA processors, one of which is
the data processing engine, and the other of which is the graphics
processing engine. It is they which make use of the 12v, and they which
gobble the amps from it ...

The power supply does have other outputs, but these are all at very low
current availabilities, so will be for support logic and maybe some core
supplies for the two processors. Trust me when I say that the two big chips
is where all the power is going, and generating heat that needs shifting
:-)

Arfa

== 3 of 7 ==
Date: Sat, Aug 28 2010 1:53 am
From: "Arfa Daily"

"Jeff Liebermann" <jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote in message
news:ebug76lk13plippid57h6q6vacu8ve4om9@4ax.com...
> On Sat, 28 Aug 2010 02:04:07 +0100, "Arfa Daily"
> <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote:
>
>>Thanks for the insights Jeff.
>
> There was quite a bit of "Learn By Destroying(tm)" involved. Measuring
> flatness and thermal resistance were a major exercise, but settled all
> kinds of lab arguments.
>
> Incidentally, you might be interested in how Arctic Silver works.
> <http://www.arcticsilver.com/products.htm>
> <http://www.arcticsilver.com/msds.htm>
> Silver has a much higher thermal conductivity (410 W/m*K) as compared
> to zinc oxide (21 W/m*K) and aluminum oxide (30 W/m*K) which is what's
> in common thermal compound.
> <http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_thermal_conductivities>
> However, if your shove an ohms-guesser into a puddle of Arctic Silver,
> it's not conductive. That's because the particles of silver are so
> far and few, that the bulk of the solution is polyolester or mineral
> oil, which insulates the particles from each other, preventing mutual
> contact. However, if you tear apart a CPU/heatsink that's been used
> for a while, you'll notice that the Arctic Silver is a thick and dense
> paste which is conductive. What has happened is that the polyol ester
> mixture has evaporated sufficiently to provide contact between
> particles. Since thermal conductivity is best through the silver
> particles, the result is a superior thermal connection, with the
> sliver particles filling the voids. You could do the same thing with
> silver dust, but it would difficult to handle and apply. Meanwhile,
> ordinary silicon grease does the same thing, but there's a difference.
> The oil does not evaporate as easily, and the ceramic particles are
> much larger and less compressible than the silver particles. Fewer
> points of contact and lower thermal conductivity of ceramic, means a
> worse thermal connection.
>
>>All interesting stuff. These are dedicated
>>games machines, not based on a PC in any way. The power supply is specced
>>to
>>deliver 12v at 23 amps, yes, that's twenty three amps ...
>>
>>Almost all of this is potentially going into these two processors, so not
>>far off 300 watts between them. No mean task shifting the heat off them !
>
> I don't believe it. The winner of the power hogging consumer CPU
> contest was the DEC/Intel Alpha 21364 (EV79):
> <http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alpha_21364>
> which burned 155 watts. Itanium II came close with 130 watts (per
> core). I had an Alpha CPU machine to play with for a while, which
> would burn my hand from the hot air coming out the back.
>
> If you have a power line wattmeter or a Kill-A-Watt meter, I think a
> measurement would be helpful.
>
> --
> Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com

Again, more interesting stuff Jeff. As to the power consumption of these
chips, see my reply to Jim above. Also, it is split between two chips, it's
actually not quite as much as 300 watts, and will of course be an 'on
demand' thing, depending on how hard the chips are being asked to work by
the processing task that's happening at the time, so the 23 amps is only a
worst case potential input current. However, that said, these two chips do
produce *very* considerable heat even when idling to produce nothing more
than the splash screen.

Arfa

== 4 of 7 ==
Date: Sat, Aug 28 2010 5:37 am
From: "Arfa Daily"

"Arfa Daily" <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote in message news:...
>>> Thanks for the insights Jeff. All interesting stuff. These are
>>> dedicated games machines, not based on a PC in any way. The power
>>> supply is specced to deliver 12v at 23 amps, yes, that's twenty three
>>> amps ...
>>>
>>> Almost all of this is potentially going into these two processors, so
>>> not far off 300 watts between them. No mean task shifting the heat off
>>> them !
>>>
>>> Arfa
>>>
>>>
>>
>> what processors(microprocessors?) run at 12V?
>> ISTR that today's uPs run mostly on 3.3V
>>
>> Most other digital logic runs at 5V,I believe.
>>
>> I think you wil find that most of your power is going into the video
>> drive
>> (or LCD backlight) circuitry.
>>
>> --
>> Jim Yanik
>
>
> Er no. There are no backlights. Or display processor. These are X-Box /
> Playstation type boxes. Apart from some support circuitry in IC form -
> which admittedly does gobble enough power to make it run hot enough that a
> degree of heatsinking to the pcb shielding via thermal pads is required -
> everything goes on in a pair of very large BGA processors, one of which is
> the data processing engine, and the other of which is the graphics
> processing engine. It is they which make use of the 12v, and they which
> gobble the amps from it ...
>
> The power supply does have other outputs, but these are all at very low
> current availabilities, so will be for support logic and maybe some core
> supplies for the two processors. Trust me when I say that the two big
> chips is where all the power is going, and generating heat that needs
> shifting :-)
>
> Arfa

== 5 of 7 ==
Date: Sat, Aug 28 2010 5:58 am
From: Jim Yanik

"Arfa Daily" <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote in
news:O24eo.36157$r24.2988@hurricane:

>>> Thanks for the insights Jeff. All interesting stuff. These are
>>> dedicated games machines, not based on a PC in any way. The power
>>> supply is specced to deliver 12v at 23 amps, yes, that's twenty
>>> three amps ...
>>>
>>> Almost all of this is potentially going into these two processors,
>>> so not far off 300 watts between them. No mean task shifting the
>>> heat off them !
>>>
>>> Arfa
>>>
>>>
>>
>> what processors(microprocessors?) run at 12V?
>> ISTR that today's uPs run mostly on 3.3V
>>
>> Most other digital logic runs at 5V,I believe.
>>
>> I think you wil find that most of your power is going into the video
>> drive (or LCD backlight) circuitry.
>>
>> --
>> Jim Yanik
>
>
> Er no. There are no backlights. Or display processor. These are X-Box
> / Playstation type boxes. Apart from some support circuitry in IC form
> - which admittedly does gobble enough power to make it run hot enough
> that a degree of heatsinking to the pcb shielding via thermal pads is
> required - everything goes on in a pair of very large BGA processors,
> one of which is the data processing engine, and the other of which is
> the graphics processing engine. It is they which make use of the 12v,
> and they which gobble the amps from it ...
>
> The power supply does have other outputs, but these are all at very
> low current availabilities, so will be for support logic and maybe
> some core supplies for the two processors. Trust me when I say that
> the two big chips is where all the power is going, and generating heat
> that needs shifting
>:-)
>
> Arfa
>
>

Odd that BGA processors are using 12V instead of logic level voltages.

I'm surprised they don't use some sort of liquid or heat-pipe plumbing to
remove all that heat. Wasn't it the CRAYs that used liquid Freon to flood
the processor cabinet to dissipate al the heat built up?

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
localnet
dot com

== 6 of 7 ==
Date: Sat, Aug 28 2010 6:20 am
From: "Michael A. Terrell"

Jim Yanik wrote:
>
> Odd that BGA processors are using 12V instead of logic level voltages.

Then they would need around 100A at 3.3 volts. The voltage drop
would be a big problem. I'm sure there is a DC to DC converter near the
chip, like used on computer motherboards.

> I'm surprised they don't use some sort of liquid or heat-pipe plumbing to
> remove all that heat. Wasn't it the CRAYs that used liquid Freon to flood
> the processor cabinet to dissipate al the heat built up?

--
Politicians should only get paid if the budget is balanced, and there is
enough left over to pay them.

== 7 of 7 ==
Date: Sat, Aug 28 2010 7:52 am
From: Meat Plow

On Fri, 27 Aug 2010 21:18:05 -0500, Jim Yanik wrote:

> "Arfa Daily" <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote in
> news:dgZdo.79946$Pa3.38201@hurricane:
>
>
>>
>> "Jeff Liebermann" <jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote in message
>> news:jh3e761hp6mg3b0sb1h6stsdsq19g2mk0m@4ax.com...
>>> On Fri, 27 Aug 2010 01:27:14 +0100, "Arfa Daily"
>>> <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>>Anyone
>>>>else got any constructive comments on the subject of thermal
>>>>interfacing of
>>>>coolers to high power chips ?
>>>
>>> In a past life, I used to design HF SSB marine radios. The typical
>>> transmitter was Class AB 150 watts with about 30% efficiency. That's
>>> two devices, dissipating about 125 watts each, over an area of about
>>> 70 sq-cm. Oh yes, no fan allowed.
>>>
>>> This is quite a bit more dissipation than the average desktop, causing
>>> some things to be more critical. In the process of getting it to
>>> work, I learned a few things.
>>>
>>> 1. The less silicon grease used, the better. The idea behind silicon
>>> grease is to fill in the gaps, scratches, and gouges in the power
>>> transistor base and aluminum heat sink. Cross sectional
>>> microphotographs show metal to metal contact on the peaks, but huge
>>> gaps, filled with silicon grease, in between. Under ideal
>>> circumstances, maximum metal to metal contact, with minimum gaps is
>>> the target practice.
>>>
>>> 2. All heat sinks and transistor bases are NOT flat. I made a
>>> dramatic improvement to the measured thermal resistance by polishing
>>> flat the base of the xsistor and the face of the heat sink. That
>>> meant removing the gold from the copper base, but that's what was
>>> necessary. I used a Moire pattern to measure flatness. A mirror
>>> finish was best, but difficult to achieve. To prevent corrosion, I
>>> plated the exposed copper with electroless tin or silver. For the
>>> aluminum heat sink, I just used abrasive polish and a glass polishing
>>> plate to obtain a mirror finish and flat surface.
>>>
>>> 3. Compression pressure is important. None of the standard spring
>>> clip CPU heat sink holders come even close to optimum. Compression
>>> adjusts for the bends, and also provides some level of galling to
>>> provide metal to metal contact. If done correctly, adding silicon
>>> grease actually increases the thermal resistance. However, this is
>>> difficult to do with a CPU that has components on the bottom side,
>>> thus preventing compression. Applying pressure only on the top center
>>> of the CPU, will cause the substrate to bend, and eventually break. I
>>> have some ideas, but nothing that can be retrofitted to an existing
>>> motherboard and CPU socket. This is close, but not optimum:
>>> <http://www.frostytech.com/articleview.cfm?articleID=2273> Note the
>>> comments on base finish and flatness.
>>>
>>> So, if you want the best head sinking, polish flat the CPU top
>>> (removing all the laser scribbled markings, polish the heat sink face,
>>> use very very very very little silicon grease, and compress the
>>> sandwich until it nearly breaks the CPU.
>>>
>>> --
>>> Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
>>
>>
>> Thanks for the insights Jeff. All interesting stuff. These are
>> dedicated games machines, not based on a PC in any way. The power
>> supply is specced to deliver 12v at 23 amps, yes, that's twenty three
>> amps ...
>>
>> Almost all of this is potentially going into these two processors, so
>> not far off 300 watts between them. No mean task shifting the heat off
>> them !
>>
>> Arfa
>>
>>
>>
> what processors(microprocessors?) run at 12V? ISTR that today's uPs run
> mostly on 3.3V
>
> Most other digital logic runs at 5V,I believe.
>
> I think you wil find that most of your power is going into the video
> drive (or LCD backlight) circuitry.

Most run at 12. The core at 1.6. Both AMD and Intel boards have a 4 pin
Molex plug near the CPU for direct 12v from the PSU.

--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Digimate L-1715 inverter part ID needed
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/e7777d19925a9def?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sat, Aug 28 2010 1:07 am
From: Franc Zabkar

On Fri, 27 Aug 2010 07:56:07 +0100, Clyde
<mkdrummeyNOSPAMPLEASE@hotmail.com> put finger to keyboard and
composed:

>Hi. Just got a Digimate 17 inch monitor with no display. Found a bad
>shottky diode on the inverter PCB so I replaced that and the fuse, now I
>have a screen, however after a few minutes it starts to flicker badly,
>on the inverter the transformer on the side I replaced the diode is
>getting hot. After a bit of tracing I have found a small SMD (8 pin,
>looks like an IC) which is shorted to all pins. I am unable to read the
>tiny writing on top and can find no information on what the part is.
>Does anyone have any idea, or possibly a schematic. Judging by the way
>it is connected (there is an identical one on the other side of the
>inverter, dual lamp) I think it may actually be a special kind of zener
>diode.
>
>Anyway some numbers, the monitor is a Digimate L-1715 ( I believe the
>inverter is used in a variety of other brands ). The inverter PCB is
>part number IV185030HX. The part I need is identified as Q3 (maybe a
>transistor?)
>
>Can anyone help?

I'm confused. At one point you say the mystery device is a special
zener diode, then you go on to say that it is a transistor. Are you
talking about two different components?

IME, 8-pin smd transistors are often MOSFETs. There is usually one
gate pin, and several drain and source pins.

Is there a control IC on the inverter board? If so, then its datasheet
may have an application circuit that is similar to yours.

- Franc Zabkar
--
Please remove one 'i' from my address when replying by email.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: vestel 11AK36 A8 TV - PSU not starting
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/40010e9e2ff31ad0?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Sat, Aug 28 2010 1:33 am
From: Franc Zabkar

On Fri, 27 Aug 2010 05:05:57 -0700 (PDT), b
<reverend_rogers@yahoo.com> put finger to keyboard and composed:

>300v present across mains capacitor, and at R821 (safety) and
>collector of Q801.
>25v present at c811, suggesting the uPc of the PSU has power.

If the voltage at C811 is 25V, then one would expect that one or more
of D840 (15V zener), D839 (signal diode) and Q809 are open. AISI, the
combined voltage drop across all three components should be around
16V.

- Franc Zabkar
--
Please remove one 'i' from my address when replying by email.

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Sat, Aug 28 2010 1:33 am
From: "Arfa Daily"

"b" <reverend_rogers@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:8f75d703-8667-4259-8068-d91597e86867@q2g2000yqq.googlegroups.com...
> This 14" 11AK36-A8 tv apparently 'just went off.' there was evidence
> of a short near the mains inlet, on the print side of the pcb -
> probably a strand of wire or blob of solder from the time of
> manufcture had been the cause. checked rectifier, removed PTC in case,
> replaced fuse. Set dead. 0v at psu o/ps.
>
> checked the obvious in psu primary, no shorted diodes or open
> resistors. Removed secondary diodes including HT line.
>
> schematics here (5m). Psu is on page 24.:
> http://www.fileden.com/files/2007/6/4/1143893//11AK36
> FULL.pdf
>
> ...not identical but the main aspects are the same.
>
> 300v present across mains capacitor, and at R821 (safety) and
> collector of Q801.
> 25v present at c811, suggesting the uPc of the PSU has power.
>
> I don't know where to look now. My next step would be to change the
> uPc UC3843, but I don't think I've ever seen a case where the chip
> went on its own...
>
> I should probably have tossed this aside by now but I'm just keen to
> satisfy my curiosity. So I'm all ears.
> cheers,
> B.

The link doesn't seem to get you direct to the schematic. Seems to want a
login from the home page ?

As for '3843s, I have had them go faulty on their own on other Vestel PSUs,
but I agree, it's rare. Have you ESR checked any small primary-side
electrolytics ? Is there anywhere else I can get a squint at the schems, or
can you mail the pdf to me direct ? I do quite a lot of switchers, and used
to do a lot of Vestels from bigger LCD TVs, so I might be able to offer an
insight or two ...

Arfa

==============================================================================
TOPIC: cheap wholesale air force one shoes ( www.nike-black.com)
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/0649e3bf9b649d07?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sat, Aug 28 2010 2:15 am
From: wholesale jerseys clothes

（www.nike-black.com） cheap wholesale air force one shoes, discount
sell air force 1st shoes, free shipping, paypal payment.
<a href= http://www.nike-black.com >Mens Air Force 1 Classic High</a>
<a href= http://www.nike-black.com >Mens Air Force 1 Classic Low</a></
a>
<a href= http://www.nike-black.com >Mens Air Force 1 Classic Mid</a>
<a href= http://www.nike-black.com >Mens Air Force 1 Kobe Bryant</a>
<a href= http://www.nike-black.com >Mens Air Force 1 LeBron James</a>
<a href= http://www.nike-black.com >Mens Air Force 1 Michael Jackson</
a>
<a href= http://www.nike-black.com >Mens Air Force 1 Premium High</a>
<a href= http://www.nike-black.com >Mens Air Force 1 Premium Low</a>
<a href= http://www.nike-black.com >Mens Air Force 1 Premium Mid</a>
<a href= http://www.nike-black.com >Mens Air Force 1 Rio Ferdinand</a>
<a href= http://www.nike-black.com >Mens Air Force 1 Supreme High</a>
<a href= http://www.nike-black.com >Mens Air Force 1 Supreme Low</a>
<a href= http://www.nike-black.com >Mens Air Force 1 25th</a>
<a href= http://www.nike-black.com >Mens Air Force 1 BirdsNest</a>
<a href= http://www.nike-black.com >Mens Air Force 1 Canvas</a>
<a href= http://www.nike-black.com >Mens Air Force 1 Low</a>
<a href= http://www.nike-black.com >Mens Air Force 1 Mid</a>
<a href= http://www.nike-black.com >Womens Air Force 1 25th</a>
<a href= http://www.nike-black.com >Womens Air Force 1 Boot</a>
<a href= http://www.nike-black.com >Womens Air Force 1 Canvas</a>
<a href= http://www.nike-black.com >Womens Air Force 1 Classic High</
a>
<a href= http://www.nike-black.com >Womens Air Force 1 Classic Low</a>
<a href= http://www.nike-black.com >Womens Air Force 1 Mid</a>
<a href= http://www.nike-black.com >Womens Air Force 1 Obama</a>
<a href= http://www.nike-black.com >Womens Air Force 1 Premium High</
a>
<a href= http://www.nike-black.com >Womens Air Force 1 Premium Low</a>
<a href= http://www.nike-black.com >Womens Air Force 1 Premium Mid</a>
<a href= http://www.nike-black.com >Womens Air Force 1 Supreme High</
a>
<a href= http://www.nike-black.com >Womens Air Force 1 Supreme Low</a>
<a href= http://www.nike-black.com >Mens Air Force 1 Light-up</a>
<a href= http://www.nike-black.com >Mens Air Force 1 Clear</a>
<a href= http://www.nike-black.com >Mens Air Force 1 Obama</a>
<a href= http://www.nike-black.com >Womens Air Force 1 Clear</a>

Website: http://www.nike-black.com
http://nikesoso.51.com

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Simple hack to get $5000 to your *Paypal account
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/6252940046679b24?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sat, Aug 28 2010 4:30 am
From: paypal cash

Simple hack to get $5000 to your *Paypal account At http://youcanget.co.cc

i have hidden the Paypal Form link in an image. in that website on
Right Side below search box, click on image and enter your name and
Paypal ID.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Durabrand DVD Player PVS1970 Won't Play
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/fefad10f4fdac079?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 6 ==
Date: Sat, Aug 28 2010 6:25 am
From: jaugustine@verizon.net

Hi,

I have a Durabrand DVD player in my service shop that won't play.

The power light is on and when a DVD is inserted, a "Loading..." message
appears on the monitor. Then an "invalid disc" message appears. Note: An
audio disc has the same effect.

The disc does not spin and the pickup head doesn't emit a beam (momentary)
nor does it move in/out (focus attempt).

A web search did not produce useful information regarding the problem.

Thank You in Advance, John

PS, Remove "ine" from my email address

== 2 of 6 ==
Date: Sat, Aug 28 2010 6:41 am
From: "N_Cook"

<jaugustine@verizon.net> wrote in message
news:8c3i76p3nuit4cm7fnjvbbd7dqj0e9mspu@4ax.com...
> Hi,
>
> I have a Durabrand DVD player in my service shop that won't play.
>
> The power light is on and when a DVD is inserted, a "Loading..."
message
> appears on the monitor. Then an "invalid disc" message appears. Note: An
> audio disc has the same effect.
>
> The disc does not spin and the pickup head doesn't emit a beam
(momentary)
> nor does it move in/out (focus attempt).
>
> A web search did not produce useful information regarding the
problem.
>
> Thank You in Advance, John
>
> PS, Remove "ine" from my email address
>

Does the owner admit to using a zone-cracking upload?

== 3 of 6 ==
Date: Sat, Aug 28 2010 6:54 am
From: "Deke"

<jaugustine@verizon.net> wrote in message
news:8c3i76p3nuit4cm7fnjvbbd7dqj0e9mspu@4ax.com...
> Hi,
>
> I have a Durabrand DVD player in my service shop that won't play.
>
> The power light is on and when a DVD is inserted, a "Loading..."
> message
> appears on the monitor. Then an "invalid disc" message appears. Note: An
> audio disc has the same effect.
>
> The disc does not spin and the pickup head doesn't emit a beam
> (momentary)
> nor does it move in/out (focus attempt).
>
> A web search did not produce useful information regarding the problem.
>
> Thank You in Advance, John
>
> PS, Remove "ine" from my email address
>

Durabrand is the trash brand from Wal-Mart. It probably sold for about
$29.00,
repair parts and schematics will NOT be available, its Chinese junk at its
worst.
If a simple cleaning of the laser lens doesn't work, stop.

== 4 of 6 ==
Date: Sat, Aug 28 2010 8:20 am
From: Meat Plow

On Sat, 28 Aug 2010 09:25:45 -0400, jaugustine wrote:

> Hi,
>
> I have a Durabrand DVD player in my service shop that won't play.

Hello. Durabrand is cheaper to replace than repair. Usually one single
LSI controls everything end even decodes/process video. Not worth repair
like the old Cyberhome crap.

--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

== 5 of 6 ==
Date: Sat, Aug 28 2010 9:51 am
From: Jamie

Meat Plow wrote:

> On Sat, 28 Aug 2010 09:25:45 -0400, jaugustine wrote:
>
>
>>Hi,
>>
>> I have a Durabrand DVD player in my service shop that won't play.
>
>
> Hello. Durabrand is cheaper to replace than repair. Usually one single
> LSI controls everything end even decodes/process video. Not worth repair
> like the old Cyberhome crap.
>
>
>
any of you here work with industrial drives or just drives in general?

We purchased a bunch of baldor VS1MD41 AC drives (1 HP) which has
vector mode in it, that's a nice thing and they're economically priced how
ever, it took me a week in my spare time between other jobs to get the
drive to go into Vector mode. The parameter H40 has a range of 0..2 in
the manual, and Selection 2 is for sensorless vector. Using that did not
put the drive in Vector mode but in some other mode that acted more like
basic V/f control. An accidental discovary of scrolling the UI on the
drive on H40 option showed that 0..3 range existed! but according to the
manual, that's wrong how ever, I select #3 and there it is, Vector mode
and it works great...

I down loaded recent DOC's from baldor, no change has been made in
the H40 parameter...

I don't know if we have a bunch of drives (40 of them) that has a
problem in firmware or baldor just isn't aware of the DOC error ?

The reason I speculate on this is, the drives my employer purchased do
not have the membrane type keyboard like Baldor is currently offering
but uses real push buttons how ever, the lay out is exactly the same...

So we either have older stock or maybe newer stock ? Either way, there
is an eror in the DOC's and this POST is going to help those that failed
at it or maybe wake up some one...

Have a good day..

Jamie..

== 6 of 6 ==
Date: Sat, Aug 28 2010 9:57 am
From: Meat Plow

On Sat, 28 Aug 2010 12:51:22 -0400, Jamie wrote:

> Meat Plow wrote:
>
>> On Sat, 28 Aug 2010 09:25:45 -0400, jaugustine wrote:
>>
>>
>>>Hi,
>>>
>>> I have a Durabrand DVD player in my service shop that won't play.
>>
>>
>> Hello. Durabrand is cheaper to replace than repair. Usually one single
>> LSI controls everything end even decodes/process video. Not worth
>> repair like the old Cyberhome crap.
>>
>>
>>
> any of you here work with industrial drives or just drives in general?
>
> We purchased a bunch of baldor VS1MD41 AC drives (1 HP) which has
> vector mode in it, that's a nice thing and they're economically priced
> how ever, it took me a week in my spare time between other jobs to get
> the drive to go into Vector mode. The parameter H40 has a range of 0..2
> in the manual, and Selection 2 is for sensorless vector. Using that did
> not put the drive in Vector mode but in some other mode that acted more
> like basic V/f control. An accidental discovary of scrolling the UI on
> the drive on H40 option showed that 0..3 range existed! but according to
> the manual, that's wrong how ever, I select #3 and there it is, Vector
> mode and it works great...
>
> I down loaded recent DOC's from baldor, no change has been made in
> the H40 parameter...
>
> I don't know if we have a bunch of drives (40 of them) that has a
> problem in firmware or baldor just isn't aware of the DOC error ?
>
> The reason I speculate on this is, the drives my employer purchased do
> not have the membrane type keyboard like Baldor is currently offering
> but uses real push buttons how ever, the lay out is exactly the same...
>
> So we either have older stock or maybe newer stock ? Either way,
> there
> is an eror in the DOC's and this POST is going to help those that failed
> at it or maybe wake up some one...
>
> Have a good day..
>
> Jamie..

I have some experience in Yaskawa CNC drives and resolvers but that's
about it. I know Baldor makes replacements but what you are referring to
are microdrives. You may have discovered some documentation errors or as
you said firmware errors but I'm no expert on it albeit I do understand
somewhat your deployment.

--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Dolphin underwater scooter
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/34462f9ac7df89c3?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sat, Aug 28 2010 6:57 am
From: "N_Cook"

12V powered propellor SCUBA assistance.
Only 2 on/off sw functions , both reed relay+ external magnets work fine.
Why so much electonics for isolator function sw and motor on and off sw, no
speed control on this one? Assuming it monitors motor overload, what else ?
brown out ?
Uses 2x ST P60NF0?? TO220 size powerfets and ST maybe LM324N 4x TO92 all
unclear under scraped off conformal. A 4mm wide track with central solder
thickening overlay, has fused, in a run of uniform (not deliberately necked)
track, not at a component. Looks as though the trace has heated to point of
melting solder and the underlying copper has split apart by contraction
leaving a neat 1mm gap rather than burning up, copper is still bright
copper. Is this another failing of PbF ? no reported motor stalling from
weed etc , what sort of current would cause this failure?, power devices etc
seem ok as far as no shorts and no other hot spots . Normal in-service
running current and some PbF metalurgical failure ?

==============================================================================
TOPIC: HOT PHOTOS
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/a8eb11879d382a73?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sat, Aug 28 2010 7:35 am
From: SRAVANTHI LOVE

HOT KERALA MALLU AUNTY WITHOUT SAREE

http://hotheroinesphoto.blogspot.com/2010/08/hot-photo.html

HOT ACTRESS IN A SEXY FEELING

http://hotheroinesphoto.blogspot.com/2010/07/hot-actress_29.html

KAJAL AGARWAL HOT BOOBS SHOW VIDEO

http://hotheroinesphoto.blogspot.com/2010/07/kajal-agarwal-boob-show.html

SNEHA HOTTEST BATH ROOM VIDEO

http://hotheroinesphoto.blogspot.com/2010/07/sneha-bath-room-video.html

SOUTH ACTRESS ASTHA BINGAL IN BATH

http://hotheroinesphoto.blogspot.com/2010/07/south-actress-astha-bingal-in-bath.html

SAMANTHA SEXY PHOTO ONLY FOR U

http://hotheroinesphoto.blogspot.com/2010/07/samantha-special.html

MAHESH AMISHA SEXY LIPKISS

http://hotheroinesphoto.blogspot.com/2010/07/amishapatel-lipkiss.html

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Sorry about that!.. THis is the Baldor VS1MD41 POST
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/b6dc5765cae0fd2a?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sat, Aug 28 2010 9:52 am
From: Jamie

any of you here work with industrial drives or just drives in general?

I down loaded recent DOC's from baldor, no change has been made in
the H40 parameter...

I don't know if we have a bunch of drives (40 of them) that has a
problem in firmware or baldor just isn't aware of the DOC error ?

So we either have older stock or maybe newer stock ? Either way, there
is an eror in the DOC's and this POST is going to help those that failed
at it or maybe wake up some one...

Have a good day..

Jamie..

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Automotive battery charger circuit breaker.
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/0164462cb92aa394?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Sat, Aug 28 2010 9:45 am
From: Sy

Hi.
Does anyone know where to find a replacement circuit breaker for a 6A automotive
battery charger?

The charger is from the '70's, a simple basic transformer and 2 diodes . The
circuit breaker is the type that automatically resets. The old one was a little
glass tube, but I've seen the type that are square with threaded terminals too.
Either one would work.

Thanks.

== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Sat, Aug 28 2010 9:58 am
From: Jamie

Sy wrote:

> Hi.
> Does anyone know where to find a replacement circuit breaker for a 6A
> automotive battery charger?
>
> The charger is from the '70's, a simple basic transformer and 2 diodes .
> The circuit breaker is the type that automatically resets. The old one
> was a little glass tube, but I've seen the type that are square with
> threaded terminals too. Either one would work.
>
> Thanks.
You need a BI metal circuit breaker..

Just go to your local auto parts store and get a
plug breaker used for power windows etc in the upper cars..

== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Sat, Aug 28 2010 10:04 am
From: Meat Plow

On Sat, 28 Aug 2010 16:45:08 +0000, Sy wrote:

Google Klixon. They make a wide variety of manual and auto reset DC
breakers. Only problem is the off time specified by the charger
manufacturer meaning it needs to stay off for a certain period of time to
allow the charger electronics to remain under a certain duty cycle.

--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

==============================================================================
TOPIC: how to remove alkaline battery residue
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/714a9d09282224a3?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sat, Aug 28 2010 11:39 am
From: "Geoffrey S. Mendelson"

Between the combination of the hotest day in many years and really bad batch
of alkaline batteries, I have several devices with a crystaline residue from
the batteries leaking.

Besides brushing with a succession of stiffer brushes, is there some chemical
that can safely remove it? It's all on metal contacts in plastic, but some are
surrounded by anodized aluminium.

Thanks in advance,

Geoff.

--
Geoffrey S. Mendelson N3OWJ/4X1GM
To help restaurants, as part of the "stimulus package", everyone must order
dessert. As part of the socialized health plan, you are forbidden to eat it. :-)

==============================================================================

You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "sci.electronics.repair"
group.

To post to this group, visit http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair?hl=en

To unsubscribe from this group, send email to sci.electronics.repair+unsubscribe@googlegroups.com

To change the way you get mail from this group, visit:
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/subscribe?hl=en

To report abuse, send email explaining the problem to abuse@googlegroups.com

==============================================================================
Google Groups: http://groups.google.com/?hl=en

Electronics

sci.electronics.repair - 25 new messages in 11 topics - digest

No Response to "sci.electronics.repair - 25 new messages in 11 topics - digest"

Post a Comment

Blog Roll

Blog Archive