sci.electronics.repair - 26 new messages in 16 topics - digest

sci.electronics.repair
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair?hl=en

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Today's topics:

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Glass fibre basket retainer for 5881/6L6
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/16c10415e29b4168?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Wed, Aug 4 2010 12:33 am
From: "N_Cook"

hr(bob) hofmann@att.net <hrhofmann@att.net> wrote in message
news:8a5f11bb-2bf9-4e45-af3b-99679e34f885@q35g2000yqn.googlegroups.com...
On Jul 31, 11:03 am, "N_Cook" <dive...@tcp.co.uk> wrote:
> Meat Plow <mhyw...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>
> news:pan.2010.07.31.15.03.11@hahahahahahahah.nutz...
>
>
>
>
>
> > On Sat, 31 Jul 2010 14:20:52 +0100, N_Cook wrote:
>
> > > Meat Plow <mhyw...@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> > >news:pan.2010.07.31.13.02.48@hahahahahahahah.nutz...
> > >> On Sat, 31 Jul 2010 11:07:31 +0100, N_Cook wrote:
>
> > >> > Owner has managed to get away with dragons teeth retaining clips
> > >> > digging into the glass envelope of his replacement type with no
> > >> > bakelite base . How to fabricate something approximating those
woven
> > >> > glass mesh baskets that go over the envelope and then a pair of
> > >> > springs down to the chassis or any other ideas other than replacing
> > >> > with based envelope types ?
>
> > >> > Incidently the first thing I did was undo the screws of the dragons
> > >> > teeth in hope of relieving some of the teeth force before removing
> > >> > the valves , but was that the correct approach?
>
> > >> Make something like Marshall used. Metal cap and springs.
>
> > > I don't fancy making a pierced metal dome shape, that has to avoid the
> > > fragile central area of the glass dome. So far I'm thinking of a
length
> > > of high temp glass sleeving knotted into a ring, slightly smaller than
> > > envelope circumference, with a balancing "knot" on the other side.
Then
> > > silicone sleeving or springs and glass sleeving down to a pair of
solder
> > > tags as anchors. Nasty dragons teeth chips in the bottles but they
> > > survived
>
> > I think making an approximation of the Marshall device is your best bet.
> > They seem to not harm the glass in any I've worked on. And putting those
> > kind of 5881's in a jaw clamp is just plain idiotic. Especially if the
> > tubes hang.
>
> Another awkwardness of the Marshall ones is the tension points must be a
> good inch below the bottle tops and part wrap around to avoid sliding off.
> Yes underslung 2002 German Engl E320 50W combo.
> First time I've come across one of these , to do anything you have to take
> the whole amp to bits. Surprisingly 2 plain washers were split, probably
> from using a windy-drill to torque up. Even the maker's ECC83 retainers
are
> an awkward bodge-up, not even fully screening.- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

For those of us on the west side of the big pond, are you talking
about shields or about mounting clips to hold the tubes in place when
they are mounted other than pins down??

Not shields , these are output devices. We would call them retainers , just
to keep the valve in its socket , especially when upside down like here. Of
course shields also retain usually, dual function

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Divining intermittant cathode-heater leakage?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/7a979e7ecae00f65?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Wed, Aug 4 2010 1:11 am
From: "N_Cook"

Any tips for doing so?
My tester goes only to 25Megohm , consistent leakage usually shows itself in
that range , would going higher by some modification elicit intermittants?
Any other tips? heating the envelope with hot air gun? holding valve
horizontally while testing ? testing at higher plate/anode voltage ?

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Wed, Aug 4 2010 10:17 am
From: whit3rd

On Aug 4, 1:11 am, "N_Cook" <dive...@tcp.co.uk> wrote:
> Any tips for doing so?

For intermittent tests, you'd like to tap the tube (use a wooden
stick). My preference would be to test with cathode
warm, using a neon lamp and limit resistor to a plate
supply (200V or so), returned to the heater.

An intermittent will make the lamp flash, but it isn't
clear what, if any, motion you'd see on a meter needle.
Leakage (like a gassy tube) might cause some flicker, too.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Discount Nike Air Max 2005 Shop (http://www.brandtrade99.com)
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/8829572d3878e54d?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Wed, Aug 4 2010 1:21 am
From: qiqi zhang

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==============================================================================
TOPIC: SMT rework
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/cab4440230d769af?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 4 ==
Date: Wed, Aug 4 2010 1:39 am
From: "Arfa Daily"

"Jim Yanik" <jyanik@abuse.gov> wrote in message
news:Xns9DC9F1B71B4D7jyaniklocalnetcom@216.168.3.44...
> "Arfa Daily" <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote in
> news:Kw26o.18759$MQ3.15154@hurricane:
>
>>
>>
>> "Herman" <ripe@bellsouth.net> wrote in message
>> news:i393ul$gdd$1@news.albasani.net...
>>>
>>> "Arfa Daily" <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
>>> news:FBh5o.37277$gM.26872@hurricane...
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> "Herman" <ripe@bellsouth.net> wrote in message
>>>> news:i32fmn$iu8$1@news.albasani.net...
>>>>> I am looking to buy a hot air SMT rework station. Only for
>>>>> occasional use. I like the idea of the vacuum pencil and the hot
>>>>> tweezers. What would be the recommended tips for general use for
>>>>> ICs and resistors etc. I do not need to do the PLLC size chips.
>>>>> Price $300 max or so.
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>> I have recently purchased a hot air rework station. It has hot air
>>>> handpiece with fully controllable airflow and temperature. Digital
>>>> readout for temp. Also has conventional iron with stand, again fully
>>>> controllable temp and digital readout. Comes with 5 round hot air
>>>> nozzles. Square ones for QFPs etc purchased from other sources fit,
>>>> I understand from a friend who also has one. Also 5 tips for the
>>>> soldering iron, spare element for the hot air and spare element for
>>>> the soldering iron. I paid 55UKP for it, so work that out in USD -
>>>> about $80 maybe. Company I got it from is in China and called
>>>> dragondirectmall. Very efficient and helpful service. Once it had
>>>> been collected from them by DHL, arrived at my door less than 24 Hrs
>>>> later. On their eBay site, they have a video showing a station being
>>>> built, and you can see that for the money, it is incredible value.
>>>>
>>>> Go to eBay and put in "KADA 852D" then look for the one that says
>>>> "buy now for £55". They have USD prices as well, as far as I recall.
>>>> Very satisfied with mine, so far.
>>>>
>>>> Arfa
>>>
>>> I was looking at that one. What do you think about the vacuum pencil
>>> and the hot tweezers? Seems like a good idea for resistors and
>>> diodes. Do the tips supplied work for small ICs? I have never used
>>> one of these stations.
>>>
>>
>> I've never bothered with vacuum pencils and hot tweezers. I guess it
>> depends how much you are going to be doing with it. I work with
>> surface mount on a daily basis, but it's actually pretty reliable
>> stuff, in general. When I need to get a resistor off a board, I just
>> heat both ends alternately with a standard iron, and then 'flick' it
>> off the pads. If I have one that is in an awkward place to do that, I
>> use one of the shaped bits that I have for my Antex station. These are
>> just 'standard' tips in that they fit any Antex 25 watt iron, but have
>> a sort of 'forked' tip, the prongs being the right distance apart to
>> heat both ends simultaneously, of standard profile sm components.
>> There are also tips in the same range that have an I.C. spacing to the
>> forks, and are the length of an IC. Good for your standard sized 8 /
>> 14 / 24 etc pinned sm ICs. I have a full set of these specially shaped
>> tips that I use when needed with my Antex temp controlled station. Not
>> cheap, but a good investment. As for picking the devices up, I just
>> use needle tipped stainless steel tweezers.
>>
>> The smallest nozzle supplied for the hot air handpiece is a couple of
>> mm diameter. It easily allows removal of ICs as long as they are not
>> too big. The process involves going round and round the pin rows until
>> it's hot enough for the solder on all pins to stay molten long enough
>> to flick the IC off the board. Obviously, if it's a very big QFP
>> package, then that's not so easy to do, and a shaped nozzle to heat
>> all four sides at once, is more appropriate.
>>
>> That said, when I got my KADA hot air station, I spent a while getting
>> a 'feel' for it, and I removed all sizes of QFP ICs from and old
>> mother board, and just to prove that you could, I even removed two
>> BGAs that were probably 4cm square each.
>>
>> I guess it's horses for courses, but for general use, so far, I can
>> thoroughly recommend my KADA as being a good value for money tool, and
>> actually, of remarkable quality and functionality, for the price.
>>
>> Arfa
>>
>>
>
> I've used the Pace thermo-tweeze system,at Tektronix.It's nice,but the
> tips
> for the many types of ICs gets costly.
>
> do you use a hot plate [or other pre-heat] for pre-heat of the workpiece?
>
>
> --
> Jim Yanik

Interesting you should ask that Jim. I've just been working on some boards
where the use of hot air was the only option, but I was finding that I had
to get the areas of concern up to a very high temperature in order for the
heat that was being put in, to not be leached away by the board substrate.
So I employed a bit of lateral thinking, and knocked up a little jig to hold
the boards flat and level about 3 inches or so above the base (a piece of
MDF). I then fitted two 12v 50 watt halogen lamps - the sort fitted in
ceiling downlighters, shaped like an Apollo rocket nose cone - pointing
upwards, and under the areas of concern. I switch these on, and leave them
for about 5 minutes. When I come back, the board is toasty warm, and I am
then able to carry out the soldering work using less air and temperature. So
far, this has been 100% successful on every one that I've done.

Arfa

== 2 of 4 ==
Date: Wed, Aug 4 2010 2:23 am
From: "N_Cook"

Arfa Daily <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:FG96o.40656$zT3.39612@hurricane...
>
>
> "Jim Yanik" <jyanik@abuse.gov> wrote in message
> news:Xns9DC9F1B71B4D7jyaniklocalnetcom@216.168.3.44...
> > "Arfa Daily" <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote in
> > news:Kw26o.18759$MQ3.15154@hurricane:
> >
> >>
> >>
> >> "Herman" <ripe@bellsouth.net> wrote in message
> >> news:i393ul$gdd$1@news.albasani.net...
> >>>
> >>> "Arfa Daily" <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
> >>> news:FBh5o.37277$gM.26872@hurricane...
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>> "Herman" <ripe@bellsouth.net> wrote in message
> >>>> news:i32fmn$iu8$1@news.albasani.net...
> >>>>> I am looking to buy a hot air SMT rework station. Only for
> >>>>> occasional use. I like the idea of the vacuum pencil and the hot
> >>>>> tweezers. What would be the recommended tips for general use for
> >>>>> ICs and resistors etc. I do not need to do the PLLC size chips.
> >>>>> Price $300 max or so.
> >>>>>
> >>>>
> >>>> I have recently purchased a hot air rework station. It has hot air
> >>>> handpiece with fully controllable airflow and temperature. Digital
> >>>> readout for temp. Also has conventional iron with stand, again fully
> >>>> controllable temp and digital readout. Comes with 5 round hot air
> >>>> nozzles. Square ones for QFPs etc purchased from other sources fit,
> >>>> I understand from a friend who also has one. Also 5 tips for the
> >>>> soldering iron, spare element for the hot air and spare element for
> >>>> the soldering iron. I paid 55UKP for it, so work that out in USD -
> >>>> about $80 maybe. Company I got it from is in China and called
> >>>> dragondirectmall. Very efficient and helpful service. Once it had
> >>>> been collected from them by DHL, arrived at my door less than 24 Hrs
> >>>> later. On their eBay site, they have a video showing a station being
> >>>> built, and you can see that for the money, it is incredible value.
> >>>>
> >>>> Go to eBay and put in "KADA 852D" then look for the one that says
> >>>> "buy now for £55". They have USD prices as well, as far as I recall.
> >>>> Very satisfied with mine, so far.
> >>>>
> >>>> Arfa
> >>>
> >>> I was looking at that one. What do you think about the vacuum pencil
> >>> and the hot tweezers? Seems like a good idea for resistors and
> >>> diodes. Do the tips supplied work for small ICs? I have never used
> >>> one of these stations.
> >>>
> >>
> >> I've never bothered with vacuum pencils and hot tweezers. I guess it
> >> depends how much you are going to be doing with it. I work with
> >> surface mount on a daily basis, but it's actually pretty reliable
> >> stuff, in general. When I need to get a resistor off a board, I just
> >> heat both ends alternately with a standard iron, and then 'flick' it
> >> off the pads. If I have one that is in an awkward place to do that, I
> >> use one of the shaped bits that I have for my Antex station. These are
> >> just 'standard' tips in that they fit any Antex 25 watt iron, but have
> >> a sort of 'forked' tip, the prongs being the right distance apart to
> >> heat both ends simultaneously, of standard profile sm components.
> >> There are also tips in the same range that have an I.C. spacing to the
> >> forks, and are the length of an IC. Good for your standard sized 8 /
> >> 14 / 24 etc pinned sm ICs. I have a full set of these specially shaped
> >> tips that I use when needed with my Antex temp controlled station. Not
> >> cheap, but a good investment. As for picking the devices up, I just
> >> use needle tipped stainless steel tweezers.
> >>
> >> The smallest nozzle supplied for the hot air handpiece is a couple of
> >> mm diameter. It easily allows removal of ICs as long as they are not
> >> too big. The process involves going round and round the pin rows until
> >> it's hot enough for the solder on all pins to stay molten long enough
> >> to flick the IC off the board. Obviously, if it's a very big QFP
> >> package, then that's not so easy to do, and a shaped nozzle to heat
> >> all four sides at once, is more appropriate.
> >>
> >> That said, when I got my KADA hot air station, I spent a while getting
> >> a 'feel' for it, and I removed all sizes of QFP ICs from and old
> >> mother board, and just to prove that you could, I even removed two
> >> BGAs that were probably 4cm square each.
> >>
> >> I guess it's horses for courses, but for general use, so far, I can
> >> thoroughly recommend my KADA as being a good value for money tool, and
> >> actually, of remarkable quality and functionality, for the price.
> >>
> >> Arfa
> >>
> >>
> >
> > I've used the Pace thermo-tweeze system,at Tektronix.It's nice,but the
> > tips
> > for the many types of ICs gets costly.
> >
> > do you use a hot plate [or other pre-heat] for pre-heat of the
workpiece?
> >
> >
> > --
> > Jim Yanik
>
>
> Interesting you should ask that Jim. I've just been working on some boards
> where the use of hot air was the only option, but I was finding that I had
> to get the areas of concern up to a very high temperature in order for the
> heat that was being put in, to not be leached away by the board substrate.
> So I employed a bit of lateral thinking, and knocked up a little jig to
hold
> the boards flat and level about 3 inches or so above the base (a piece of
> MDF). I then fitted two 12v 50 watt halogen lamps - the sort fitted in
> ceiling downlighters, shaped like an Apollo rocket nose cone - pointing
> upwards, and under the areas of concern. I switch these on, and leave them
> for about 5 minutes. When I come back, the board is toasty warm, and I am
> then able to carry out the soldering work using less air and temperature.
So
> far, this has been 100% successful on every one that I've done.
>
> Arfa
>

Why the intermediary MDF? I suppose it would be a useful surface to stick
some thermochromic stickers

== 3 of 4 ==
Date: Wed, Aug 4 2010 4:42 am
From: Jim Yanik

"N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote in
news:i3bbhn$g50$1@news.eternal-september.org:

> Arfa Daily <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
> news:FG96o.40656$zT3.39612@hurricane...
>>
>>
>> "Jim Yanik" <jyanik@abuse.gov> wrote in message
>> news:Xns9DC9F1B71B4D7jyaniklocalnetcom@216.168.3.44...

>> > I've used the Pace thermo-tweeze system,at Tektronix.It's nice,but
>> > the tips
>> > for the many types of ICs gets costly.
>> >
>> > do you use a hot plate [or other pre-heat] for pre-heat of the
> workpiece?
>> >
>> >
>> > --
>> > Jim Yanik
>>
>>
>> Interesting you should ask that Jim. I've just been working on some
>> boards where the use of hot air was the only option, but I was
>> finding that I had to get the areas of concern up to a very high
>> temperature in order for the heat that was being put in, to not be
>> leached away by the board substrate. So I employed a bit of lateral
>> thinking, and knocked up a little jig to
> hold
>> the boards flat and level about 3 inches or so above the base (a
>> piece of MDF). I then fitted two 12v 50 watt halogen lamps - the sort
>> fitted in ceiling downlighters, shaped like an Apollo rocket nose
>> cone - pointing upwards, and under the areas of concern. I switch
>> these on, and leave them for about 5 minutes. When I come back, the
>> board is toasty warm, and I am then able to carry out the soldering
>> work using less air and temperature.
> So
>> far, this has been 100% successful on every one that I've done.
>>
>> Arfa
>>
>
> Why the intermediary MDF? I suppose it would be a useful surface to
> stick some thermochromic stickers
>
>
>

I believe he said the MDF was the base,the jig holds the boards
horizontally over the base,on which the halogens are mounted.

I wonder if the "jig" is a Panavise?

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
localnet
dot com

== 4 of 4 ==
Date: Wed, Aug 4 2010 9:55 am
From: "Arfa Daily"

>>
>> Why the intermediary MDF? I suppose it would be a useful surface to
>> stick some thermochromic stickers
>>
>>
>>
>
> I believe he said the MDF was the base,the jig holds the boards
> horizontally over the base,on which the halogens are mounted.
>
> I wonder if the "jig" is a Panavise?
>
> --
> Jim Yanik

Correct, Jim. The MDF is the 'base'. The boards have mounting holes along
their edges, which take screws when they are assembled into their product.
So I took a piece of MDF, cut a base, and two pieces about 9" long by 3" or
so wide. I then screwed these to the base like a pair of 'walls', set the
right distance apart so that their centres were exactly under the mounting
holes. I then marked a couple of these holes on each side, drilled 3mm holes
down into the 'walls', and inserted cut down pieces of laser slide rails
from old CD decks. These have nice smooth chamfered ends on them as
standard. This allowed me to just drop a board over the pins, which then
served to locate it on the tops of the walls, and stop it sliding around.
The whole thing was then modified to take the lamps under the board, by
drilling two 17mm holes in the MDF base, and push-fitting circular ceramic
lampholders into those holes.

The fact that I used MDF for all this is neither here nor there really. I
just happened to have a big enough piece laying around, and it's easy to
work with. Because of the nature of its makeup, if you drill holes in it
that are just under clearance sized, it will grip whatever you push into the
hole really tightly, without it being much effort to actually push it in.
For instance, the slide rods that I used as pins, which are actually about
3.1 mm, and the lampholders which are actually a tad over 17mm diameter.

Arfa

==============================================================================
TOPIC: hissing sound coming from behind woofer on one side AR11
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/3a9cce9766f809ce?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 4 ==
Date: Wed, Aug 4 2010 3:06 am
From: Ron

On 03/08/2010 01:18, Arfa Daily wrote:
>
>
> "Meat Plow" <mhywatt@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:pan.2010.08.02.16.02.36@hahahahahahahah.nutz...
>> On Mon, 02 Aug 2010 09:21:24 -0500, Chuck wrote:
>>
>>> On Tue, 20 Jul 2010 12:30:48 -0700 (PDT), Amanda Ripanykhazov
>>> <dmanzaluni@googlemail.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Anyone know what this means? This hissing sound isnt constant, it is
>>>> irregular: It isnt related to the music or any movement of the cone or
>>>> any signal put through it, though it doesnt happen when no sound is put
>>>> through the speaker.
>>>>
>>>> Frankly it sounds more mechancial than electronic (as if there is
>>>> something behind there!) but as I say, it isnt related to whatever is
>>>> coming through the speaker though it does increase and decrease with
>>>> adjustment of the volume control. Andit is louder than most signals put
>>>> through the woofer itself??
>>>>
>>>> Is it indicative of some pot in the crossover needing cleaning or is
>>>> there something else going on please? (I have seen reference to people
>>>> improving the sound of AR11s by bypassing the tone controls in the
>>>> speaker completely). This speaker is quite elderly and I would imagine
>>>> that if it does use mechanical pots, they must be fairly dirty by now
>>>
>>>
>>> I once lived in an old mansion that had been converted into an apartment
>>> building where one of my KLH 32 speakers was mounted by the main
>>> electrical entrance for the building. There sometimes was a soft noise
>>> from the tweeter without the amplifier being on. Later on we discovered
>>> that the owner of the building had replaced one of the cartridge fuses
>>> in series with the hot 120 AC in with a piece of copper pipe that was
>>> arcing at the fuse clips. I know this sounds apocryphal but I spent 32
>>> years in the consumer audio field as a technician, and service and store
>>> manager so you can be reasonably sure, in this case, that I'm not a
>>> troll . Chuck
>>
>> An old friend used to live within a hundred feet of a radio station. He
>> swears that on one occasion he could hear programming coming from a
>> filling in one of his molars.
>
> This is quite common. The BBC used to operated a long wave transmitter
> in the county where I live. It was 200kW during the daylight hours, and
> 470kW at night. There were always reports in the local newspaper of
> people experiencing oddball reception events, and picking up radio 'in
> your head' was a regular one. Apparently, it happens more when fillings
> are new, and the oxide layers or what have you, are still building.
> Supposedly, the filling acts as a simple diode detector, and if the
> field strength is high enough, actually 'rattles' mechanically. The
> vibration from this passes out of the tooth and up the jawbone into the
> skull, where it is picked up directly by the ears. I have also seen the
> phenomenon explained as the detected audio voltage passing out of the
> tooth, and directly stimulating nerves that are part of the hearing
> centre. I suppose that's possible, but it sounds less likely to me, than
> the first explanation.
>
> Another few favourites for 'ghost' reception near this transmitter, were
> electric cookers, stereo systems that were turned off, and mattress
> springs !!
>
> Arfa

In the house where we lived some years ago, we used to get 'fax machine'
noises from the bedside lamp during the night. Happily it only happened
when it was switched on.

Ron(UK)

== 2 of 4 ==
Date: Wed, Aug 4 2010 5:16 am
From: Meat Plow

On Tue, 03 Aug 2010 23:34:59 -0400, Michael A. Terrell wrote:

> Arfa Daily wrote:
>>
>> "Meat Plow" <mhywatt@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>> news:pan.2010.08.02.16.02.36@hahahahahahahah.nutz...
>> > On Mon, 02 Aug 2010 09:21:24 -0500, Chuck wrote:
>> >
>> >> On Tue, 20 Jul 2010 12:30:48 -0700 (PDT), Amanda Ripanykhazov
>> >> <dmanzaluni@googlemail.com> wrote:
>> >>
>> >>>Anyone know what this means? This hissing sound isnt constant, it is
>> >>>irregular: It isnt related to the music or any movement of the cone
>> >>>or any signal put through it, though it doesnt happen when no sound
>> >>>is put through the speaker.
>> >>>
>> >>>Frankly it sounds more mechancial than electronic (as if there is
>> >>>something behind there!) but as I say, it isnt related to whatever
>> >>>is coming through the speaker though it does increase and decrease
>> >>>with adjustment of the volume control. Andit is louder than most
>> >>>signals put through the woofer itself??
>> >>>
>> >>>Is it indicative of some pot in the crossover needing cleaning or is
>> >>>there something else going on please? (I have seen reference to
>> >>>people improving the sound of AR11s by bypassing the tone controls
>> >>>in the speaker completely). This speaker is quite elderly and I
>> >>>would imagine that if it does use mechanical pots, they must be
>> >>>fairly dirty by now
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> I once lived in an old mansion that had been converted into an
>> >> apartment building where one of my KLH 32 speakers was mounted by
>> >> the main electrical entrance for the building. There sometimes was
>> >> a soft noise from the tweeter without the amplifier being on. Later
>> >> on we discovered that the owner of the building had replaced one of
>> >> the cartridge fuses in series with the hot 120 AC in with a piece of
>> >> copper pipe that was arcing at the fuse clips. I know this sounds
>> >> apocryphal but I spent 32 years in the consumer audio field as a
>> >> technician, and service and store manager so you can be reasonably
>> >> sure, in this case, that I'm not a troll . Chuck
>> >
>> > An old friend used to live within a hundred feet of a radio station.
>> > He swears that on one occasion he could hear programming coming from
>> > a filling in one of his molars.
>>
>> This is quite common. The BBC used to operated a long wave transmitter
>> in the county where I live. It was 200kW during the daylight hours, and
>> 470kW at night. There were always reports in the local newspaper of
>> people experiencing oddball reception events, and picking up radio 'in
>> your head' was a regular one. Apparently, it happens more when fillings
>> are new, and the oxide layers or what have you, are still building.
>> Supposedly, the filling acts as a simple diode detector, and if the
>> field strength is high enough, actually 'rattles' mechanically. The
>> vibration from this passes out of the tooth and up the jawbone into the
>> skull, where it is picked up directly by the ears. I have also seen the
>> phenomenon explained as the detected audio voltage passing out of the
>> tooth, and directly stimulating nerves that are part of the hearing
>> centre. I suppose that's possible, but it sounds less likely to me,
>> than the first explanation.
>>
>> Another few favourites for 'ghost' reception near this transmitter,
>> were electric cookers, stereo systems that were turned off, and
>> mattress springs !!
>
>
>
> WLW in Cincinnati, Ohio used to run 500 KW on 700 KHz under an
> experimental license. Local farmers reported talking and singing fence
> wire or a few miles from their tower.
>
> http://hawkins.pair.com/wlw.shtml has some photos and a description,
> along with a simplified schematic of the beast. It also has one of the
> few remaining Blaw-Knox diamond towers.
>
> WSM in Nashville has another Blaw-Knox tower. http://www.wsmonline.com

http://www.rfproof.com/WLW/wlw_500kw_transmitter_mason_ohio.htm

--
This is a test sig

== 3 of 4 ==
Date: Wed, Aug 4 2010 5:41 am
From: "William Sommerwerck"

> This is quite common. The BBC used to operate a long wave
> transmitter in the county where I live. It was 200kW during the
> daylight hours, 470kW at night. There were always reports in
> the local newspaper of people experiencing oddball reception
> events; picking up radio "in your head" was a regular one.

Did they hear it when they weren't relieving themselves?

"Mythbusters" did a segment on this, referencing a claim by Lucille Ball of
having heard radio signals in her head during the '40s. Adam and Jamie did
an uncharacteristically shallow investigation, and were unable to confirm
the effect.

== 4 of 4 ==
Date: Wed, Aug 4 2010 9:41 am
From: "Arfa Daily"

"William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:i3bn7r$ip0$1@news.eternal-september.org...
>> This is quite common. The BBC used to operate a long wave
>> transmitter in the county where I live. It was 200kW during the
>> daylight hours, 470kW at night. There were always reports in
>> the local newspaper of people experiencing oddball reception
>> events; picking up radio "in your head" was a regular one.
>
> Did they hear it when they weren't relieving themselves?
>
> "Mythbusters" did a segment on this, referencing a claim by Lucille Ball
> of
> having heard radio signals in her head during the '40s. Adam and Jamie did
> an uncharacteristically shallow investigation, and were unable to confirm
> the effect.
>
>

Whilst it's undoubtedly an entertaining show to watch, I do sometimes find
the science to be a little 'questionable', probably because of a need to
ensure entertainment value for the network. At the end of the day, almost
anything will work as a simple diode detector, and I see no reason why that
shouldn't be true of an amalgam tooth filling, which is a fairly complex
layered structure, sitting in a conductive liquid. To be fair, I'm pretty
sure that when I first looked into this effect many years ago, whatever I
was reading suggested that it was particularly related to 'new' fillings.
This may well be the case, as new fillings have that very metallic taste
that is actually, I understand, them acting as a tiny battery, and giving
the tongue a mild electric shock, which the brain translates as a 'taste' as
the nerves are being stimulated directly. 470kW of AM must result in a
mother of a high field strength in the locality.

Arfa

==============================================================================
TOPIC: What is this strange encoder motor?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/c033e5f3d5b31265?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Wed, Aug 4 2010 5:06 am
From: Jim Wilkins

On Aug 3, 8:23 am, Ignoramus30076 <ignoramus30...@NOSPAM.
30076.invalid> wrote:
> On 2010-08-03, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh <lloydspinsidemindspring.com> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > Ignoramus30076 <ignoramus30...@NOSPAM.30076.invalid> fired this volley in
> >news:VsOdnUImjYrDY8rRnZ2dnUVZ_gydnZ2d@giganews.com:
>
> >> Say, McMaster has two reamers, 0.248" and 0.2495", for a 1/4" dowel
> >> pin. Which one should I use?
>
> > If you use the small one, at only 1/4", it'll take a lot of heat to get
> > the hole to expand that one thou or so you'll have left to go. You'll
> > also have to work with confidence and speed when you press it on.
>
> > Some guys would use the larger one, and a drop of Loctite to secure the
> > joint. It won't be under any significant load.
>
> > Just for G.P.s, I'd figure getting a .250+ hole out of the .2495 reamer
> > unless _everything_ in the setup was spot-on.
>
> > One trick is to heat the work before reaming with the optimum-size reamer
> > (and keep it hot during reaming, so it doesn't seize up on the tool).
> > When the piece cools, it will be exactly the amount undersized to fit up
> > the way you want.
>
> Lloyd, I cannot heat it, it is a motor shaft mounted in the motor.
>
> I think that .2495 and loctite would be perfect.
>
> So, .2495 reamer, 1/4" dowel pin, and what drill should I use for
> initial drilling of the hole?
>
> i-

Unless the hardened dowel pin is necessary I would ream it 0.250" or
whatever reamer I have and turn down a shaft to fit. When I do this
sort of job I cut the shaft long and a few thousandths oversized and
make short test cuts on the end, then turn the rest of the shaft to
the size that fits and part the shaft to final length.

I found second-hand 0.4995" and 0.501" reamers which have worked well
with drill rod for press and running fits on my home projects, such as
the pivot pins on the front end loader.

jsw

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Found this interesting site
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/a9c4dd4d4e1c8343?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Wed, Aug 4 2010 6:11 am
From: Meat Plow

May be of interest to some of the group RF nuts like me.

http://hawkins.pair.com/radio.html

--
This is a test sig

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Wed, Aug 4 2010 5:49 pm
From: "Michael A. Terrell"

Meat Plow wrote:
>
> May be of interest to some of the group RF nuts like me.
>
> http://hawkins.pair.com/radio.html

I told you about that site a couple years ago.

Here is one about the different types of broadcast towers in use, in
the US.

http://www.fybush.com/

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Simple Hack To Get $2000 To Your PayPal Account
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/40122e0119d399d6?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Wed, Aug 4 2010 6:28 am
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==============================================================================
TOPIC: VOA Transmitter Plant 'A' at Greenville, North Carolina
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/764284bc17759416?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Wed, Aug 4 2010 7:53 am
From: Meat Plow

Amateur video footage inside the plant. May be
of interest to some. 5 parts about 45 minutes
total.

http://www.j-hawkins.com/voanc/YouTubeVideo.html

--
This is a test sig

==============================================================================
TOPIC: 125 VAC motor won't start
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/a1adec446eb7f728?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Wed, Aug 4 2010 8:23 am
From: bud--

a453 wrote:
>
>
> I searched but found no reference to my motor.. it's a bit old.... the
> old capacitor is all rusty and unreadable so with some approximation on
> "similar " motors I trend to install a new 220v 108-130 MFD
> capacitor.... the motor ran fine for a bit and then the capacitor
> "popped"... I guess I burned it....
>
> SHould I try use a capacitor with a higher or lower MFD number (the
> motor runs on ordinary houseol 115-120volt power) thanks

It is common for motors to use a capacitor to start the motor - it is
disconnected by a switch in the motor when the motor approaches running
speed.

Some motors have a capacitor that is permanently connected - a run
capacitor.

Some motors have both a start and run capacitor.

Since the cap died after the motor was running my guess is that the
motor uses a run capacitor. Or the start switch is not opening?

A capacitor that is designed for temporary starting can't be used as a
run capacitor. Your replacement cap was maybe a start cap where a run
cap should have been used? Does the motor have a start switch? Is it
opening? I have never seen a motor with a cap inside.

I think Grainger sells motor caps and you might get an idea of what is
out there. Run caps have a lower mfd rating than start caps.

== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Wed, Aug 4 2010 8:40 am
From: "tm"

"bud--" <remove.budnews@isp.com> wrote in message
news:1f8fb$4c598618$cde8d539$3707@DIALUPUSA.NET...
> a453 wrote:
>>
>>
>> I searched but found no reference to my motor.. it's a bit old.... the
>> old capacitor is all rusty and unreadable so with some approximation on
>> "similar " motors I trend to install a new 220v 108-130 MFD capacitor....
>> the motor ran fine for a bit and then the capacitor "popped"... I guess I
>> burned it....
>>
>> SHould I try use a capacitor with a higher or lower MFD number (the
>> motor runs on ordinary houseol 115-120volt power) thanks
>
> It is common for motors to use a capacitor to start the motor - it is
> disconnected by a switch in the motor when the motor approaches running
> speed.
>
> Some motors have a capacitor that is permanently connected - a run
> capacitor.
>
> Some motors have both a start and run capacitor.
>
> Since the cap died after the motor was running my guess is that the motor
> uses a run capacitor. Or the start switch is not opening?
>
> A capacitor that is designed for temporary starting can't be used as a run
> capacitor. Your replacement cap was maybe a start cap where a run cap
> should have been used? Does the motor have a start switch? Is it opening?
> I have never seen a motor with a cap inside.
>
> I think Grainger sells motor caps and you might get an idea of what is out
> there. Run caps have a lower mfd rating than start caps.

I think you are exactly right about the start switch. The contacts are
likely
welded shut so when the motor starts, the start cap is left in the circuit
until
it overheats and blows. Then the motor will not restart. Also, many of those
start caps have an internal fuse.

Can the OP determine if there is a start switch?

--- news://freenews.netfront.net/ - complaints: news@netfront.net ---

== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Wed, Aug 4 2010 11:09 am
From: GrendelsLair

This is a typical centrifugal start switch assembly.
http://www.powertransmission.com/issues/0608/butler1.jpg
As the motor comes up to speed the washer on the left side pushes the
starting switch contacts open.

Start capacitors are for intermittent duty only, i.e. starting the
motor.
Values run from 100-300 MFD and voltages need to be in RMS, not DC
volts.

Jeff

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Crosley CR66 Service Information?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/e70537c7d635aca8?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Wed, Aug 4 2010 10:26 am
From: GrendelsLair

I have the user manual;
http://www.crosleyradio.com/Manuals/CR66_Manual.pdf
But I need the service manual to fix it.
For some odd reason the turntable is going way faster than it should.

Thanks
Jeff

==============================================================================
TOPIC: STA5141 , TO5 transistor from 1974
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/afb089d26be1db16?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Wed, Aug 4 2010 12:22 pm
From: John Robertson

N_Cook wrote:
> In the pa of HH HA100 amp from 1974, probably ok but cannot find any info on
> it, just maybe STA6141, a bit indistinct
>
>

Perhaps a hi-resolution picture uploaded somewhere of the transistor?

I see nothing in my 1979 D.A.T.A (Edition 46) Book for anything like
ST*5141.

Also who is HH?

John :-#)#

--
(Please post followups or tech inquiries to the newsgroup)
John's Jukes Ltd. 2343 Main St., Vancouver, BC, Canada V5T 3C9
Call (604)872-5757 or Fax 872-2010 (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
www.flippers.com
"Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Mits model CS 35707 - IC 6F01 still available?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/8859cb72c9275d32?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Wed, Aug 4 2010 1:57 pm
From: "David Farber"

stokesbr@cox.net wrote:
> I haven't even looked at the set, but my coworker says the picture
> suddenly lost all red color. A little research and I found this is not
> uncommon with this set, including the diode addition fix. I'm not
> ready to order parts, but if this is what I need, I can't locate this
> part anywhere. Search of web and this group came up empty. Anyone here
> know of a cross reference part or where to purchase the original?
> Thankyou for your time.

You aren't by any chance confusing the location number with the part number
are you? The part number is, AN5862K and you can find them on eBay. Also MCM
electronics says they are on backorder for a couple of weeks.

Good luck.

--
David Farber
Los Osos, CA

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Men's Health Research
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/42f33fe65deb74be?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Wed, Aug 4 2010 3:23 pm
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The University of Memphis

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Cheap Nike air max 24/7 shoes www.shoestrade.biz
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/91575180b80c842c?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
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==============================================================================
TOPIC: Cheap ipad IPhone 4 iphone 3G www.shoestrade.biz
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/624e9222df1ba145?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Wed, Aug 4 2010 5:51 pm
From: qq

Our site: www.shoestrade.biz

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