sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Today's topics:

* Technics SA-310 Receiver Fixed! - 9 messages, 4 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/266f00b3a43b6910?hl=en
* LORAN C - 5 messages, 4 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/73c2d1e0342e191b?hl=en
* AF men and women coat made in china (http://www.brandtrade66.com ) - 1
messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/025a9734c562085e?hl=en
* Yet another bulging-capacitors replacement - 5 messages, 5 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/3ec97de65fce9bb3?hl=en
* Electronic Kenmore refrigerator not working, what does this sign mean - 1
messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/4fe72ade24c7a7db?hl=en
* Whirlpool Refrigerator Fan Motor Problem - 3 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/d822c52a2e9704a4?hl=en
* Cheap Coach Handbags Chanel Handbags Burberry Handbags GUCCI Handbags
Wholesale(http://www.24hoursneakers.com/) (PayPal Payment) - 1 messages, 1
author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/85cc7024b2d9f217?hl=en

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Technics SA-310 Receiver Fixed!
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/266f00b3a43b6910?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 9 ==
Date: Wed, Sep 1 2010 12:47 am
From: "N_Cook"

William R. Walsh <newsgroups1@idontwantjunqueemail.walshcomptech.com> wrote
in message news:yJGdnVZO5tv6nePRnZ2dnUVZ_sednZ2d@mchsi.com...
> Hello all...
>
> Just thought I'd drop in and provide a quick status update. I learned a
few
> things along the way:
>
> 1. STK-2038 and 2038 II modules are not at all the same. Someone (not
here)
> told me they were electrically compatible with each other, and this is not
> so. The STK-2038II has more pins and seems to be less commonly available.
>
> A few people pointed me in various directions, and one pointed me to a new
> old stock STK-2048 II module, still sealed in the factory wrapping. I
opted
> for that one; it's used in the next model up (the SA-410).
>
> 2. Nothing more than installing the new module was required. Everything is
> playing great now.
>
> 3. I'll never push the unit *that* hard again (turned it up about halfway
> and that was when it started to fold).
>
> 4. The internal protection circuit absolutely will NOT save your speakers
if
> anything goes wrong with the power amplifier. I was using an outboard
> speaker protection device and it did the job when the hybrid module went
the
> rest of the way.
>
> 5. Computer Drive and its method of forcing the transistors in the hybrid
to
> remain turned on to some degree at all times seems to make them run really
> HOT. Every SA-310 and 410 I've ever seen gets very hot, especially when
> idling. I'm going to install a fan. The heatsink becomes ridiculously hot
> within ten minutes of operation, so hot that it can't be touched. I don't
> think this can be good for the hybrid.
>
> I learned a lot and I appreciate everyone's help and commentary from this
> group. I have no intention of finding out, but I do wonder what Computer
> Drive actually *does* when the 60C temperature sensor attached to it
> trips...? Honestly I'm surprised it hasn't--a 50C device is at least
> touchable. This really isn't. And all the service manual says is that the
> "Thermal" LED on the Computer Drive Monitor goes out when this happens.
>
> William
>
>

If the "outboard speaker protection device " is a "crowbar" how do you know
it was not a failure in that which knocked out the amp ?

== 2 of 9 ==
Date: Wed, Sep 1 2010 4:46 am
From: Meat Plow

On Wed, 01 Sep 2010 02:27:41 -0500, William R. Walsh wrote:

> Hello all...
>
> Just thought I'd drop in and provide a quick status update. I learned a
> few things along the way:
>
> 1. STK-2038 and 2038 II modules are not at all the same. Someone (not
> here) told me they were electrically compatible with each other, and
> this is not so. The STK-2038II has more pins and seems to be less
> commonly available.
>
> A few people pointed me in various directions, and one pointed me to a
> new old stock STK-2048 II module, still sealed in the factory wrapping.
> I opted for that one; it's used in the next model up (the SA-410).

Boy does THAT have a familiar ring.

--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

== 3 of 9 ==
Date: Wed, Sep 1 2010 6:40 am
From: "William R. Walsh"

Hi!

> If the "outboard speaker protection device " is a "crowbar" how
> do you know it was not a failure in that which knocked out the
> amp ?

The device in question opens the circuit by tripping a relay (one per
channel).

The left channel of the amplifier was already dying before I was using
it anyway. At first it got weak and distorted when I turned up the
volume. It would come back to working order if I turned it back down.

Then it stayed broken, with the weak and distorted audio on the left
channel. Around that time, I put the good speakers away, got some
crappy ones and decided that I'd rather not smell them burning up.

It played for a while beyond that and then "click" ... the relay
tripped.

William

== 4 of 9 ==
Date: Wed, Sep 1 2010 6:40 am
From: "William R. Walsh"

Hi!

> Boy does THAT have a familiar ring.

I don't think I know what you are getting at.

William

== 5 of 9 ==
Date: Wed, Sep 1 2010 7:06 am
From: "William Sommerwerck"

> Computer Drive and its method of forcing the transistors in the
> hybrid to remain turned on to some degree at all times seems
> to make them run really HOT. Every SA-310 and 410 I've ever
> seen gets very hot, especially when idling. I'm going to install
> a fan. The heatsink becomes ridiculously hot after ten minutes
> of operation, so hot it can't be touched. I don't think this can
> be good for the hybrid.

Some years ago an audiophile reviewer complained that an amplifier's
heatsinks got unduly hot. The manufacturer replied that that was the purpose
of the heatsink, to remove heat from the output stage.

Although this makes a sort of sense, the fact is that an extremely hot
heatsink -- except when the amplifier is driven to the point of maximum
dissipation, which I believe is about 35% of clipping power for a weakly
biased class-AB amp -- suggests that the heatsink isn't big enough.

== 6 of 9 ==
Date: Wed, Sep 1 2010 8:04 am
From: Meat Plow

On Wed, 01 Sep 2010 06:40:32 -0700, William R. Walsh wrote:

> Hi!
>
>> Boy does THAT have a familiar ring.
>
> I don't think I know what you are getting at.
>
> William

The STK subbing. That actually went on a lot with so many different
models of those receivers and amps.

--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

== 7 of 9 ==
Date: Wed, Sep 1 2010 8:22 am
From: "William R. Walsh"

Hi!

> The manufacturer replied that that was the purpose
> of the heatsink, to remove heat from the output stage.

I'd certainly agree with that.

> Although this makes a sort of sense, the fact is that an extremely hot
> heatsink -- except when the amplifier is driven to the point of maximum
> dissipation, which I believe is about 35% of clipping power for a weakly
> biased class-AB amp -- suggests that the heatsink isn't big enough.

It may very well not be big enough. When I removed the old module, I
noticed that the factory's application of heatsink compound was
basically "glob it on there, the thicker the better".

I cleaned all of that mess off, followed by rubbing down the backplate
of the new module and the mating surface on the heatsink with 99%
isopropyl alcohol to assure that both were very clean. The old
compound was dried up anyway. Might as well do it right. Then I did it
up with a *thin* layer of Radio Shack's basic heatsink compound,
applied to the back of the module with a credit card slice. Just a
very little of the compound squirted out from the top when I screwed
the new module back into place...a lot less than the excess "blob"
that had been resting on the old module's top.

I have no reason to believe that the hybrid module was ever replaced
prior to this. My other, similar Technics receivers also show signs of
"too much heatsink compound".

This seems to be doing a better job. With the old module, I remember
its plastic casing getting hot along with the heatsink. The new module
gets the heatsink hotter while its plastic casing stays much cooler.
This could mean a lot of things. I take it to mean the heatsink is
being more effectively utilized now.

The receiver itself is a slimline unit:
http://www.vintagetechnics.info/receivers/sa310.htm
which limits any possibility for modification. I definitely do think I
could take two small DC fans, borrow a little power from the 28.5 volt
tap on the transformer, run it through a rectifier and greatly reduce
the heat problem. As each of the 28.5 volt taps power the audio
amplifier, one easily ought to have enough power to spare for some
little fans.

I also have an SA-210 and SA-120. These have similar power output to
the SA-310, use the "Series I" Sanyo STK-XXXX modules and seem to run
in conventional Class AB mode (no Computer Drive or "synchro bias").
Both of them put out a LOT less heat when idling or working hard.

William

== 8 of 9 ==
Date: Wed, Sep 1 2010 8:25 am
From: "William R. Walsh"

Hi!

> The STK subbing. That actually went on a lot with so many different
> models of those receivers and amps.

I read somewhere that some manufacturers even did this when building a
new receiver, using a bigger module where a smaller one had been
called for.

This new module went into place very well. I did a better job of
cleaning out the through-holes than I first thought, although I did
have one pin miss its hole and get a little bit bent up in the
process. It was an easy fix. Soldering the new module in also proved
to be pretty easy.

William

== 9 of 9 ==
Date: Wed, Sep 1 2010 8:40 am
From: Meat Plow

On Wed, 01 Sep 2010 08:25:36 -0700, William R. Walsh wrote:

> Hi!
>
>> The STK subbing. That actually went on a lot with so many different
>> models of those receivers and amps.
>
> I read somewhere that some manufacturers even did this when building a
> new receiver, using a bigger module where a smaller one had been called
> for.
>
> This new module went into place very well. I did a better job of
> cleaning out the through-holes than I first thought, although I did have
> one pin miss its hole and get a little bit bent up in the process. It
> was an easy fix. Soldering the new module in also proved to be pretty
> easy.
>
> William

I've replaced several dozen of those back in the 80s when I worked for a
person who was factory authorized by 10 major brands. I remember writing
down what I needed and getting replacements with more pins or less pins.
Then having to look through Panasonic tech literature and choosing
replacements by physical/electrical description and ignoring the STK
numbers to some extent. Finally had hand written my own cross reference.

--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

==============================================================================
TOPIC: LORAN C
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/73c2d1e0342e191b?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 5 ==
Date: Wed, Sep 1 2010 1:08 am
From: Jeff Liebermann

On Wed, 1 Sep 2010 15:13:11 +0900, "Michael Kennedy" <mike@com> wrote:

>This started out as a repair issue, my LORAN unit wasn't getting a signal. I
>thought it was broken. I have been gone from the USA for 2 years and but
>after some research I have found out that in my time gone that the
>government has decided that we no longer need LORAN or any form of backup
>for GPS.

Yep. The US pulled the plug earlier this year:
<http://www.navcen.uscg.gov/?pageName=loranMain>
Also Canada, Africa, and Russia.

Some European countries still have their systems running:
<http://www.loran-europe.eu/viewpage.php?page_id=23>
<http://www.loran-europe.eu/viewpage.php?page_id=5>
but my guess is when Galileo is fully operational, Europe will also
pull the plug. That may be many years with the current rate of
funding and progress:
<http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galileo_Navigation_System>
Meanwhile their Loran-C system is still up mostly because they want to
rely on a US controlled GPS system.

>I can only hope that we will see the LORAN system come back in some form in
>the future. Is it just me or does it seem stupid to do away with out only
>backup system for GPS?

It depends on what you're trying to accomplish. Seen any cell phones
with Loran-C for E911 location? Vehicle navigation systems with
Loran-C? For many things, GPS is the only way it can be done (or done
economically). Nobody wants a 10ft long amplified Loran antenna
hanging off their cell phone.

I don't think you'll see the Loran zombie rise from the dead.

>LORAN is robust where as GPS seems qite frail in comparison. I have lost GPS
>signals in bad weather but never LORAN, but maybe this is just my
>observations and not a true representation of the facts.

GPS has its problems, but the latest units are sufficiently sensitive
to work even in a storm. Location is important and having your
receiver antenna below deck may cause reception problems. Try some of
the newer "high sensitivity" GPS receivers and see if it works any
better. If below deck on a handheld, thing about a docking station
and external mast mounted antenna:
<http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/High_Sensitivity_GPS>

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

== 2 of 5 ==
Date: Wed, Sep 1 2010 2:30 am
From: "N_Cook"

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote in message
news:fi1s76pkapdrpdlbfk1134pb7t2squgufk@4ax.com...
> On Wed, 1 Sep 2010 15:13:11 +0900, "Michael Kennedy" <mike@com> wrote:
>
> >This started out as a repair issue, my LORAN unit wasn't getting a
signal. I
> >thought it was broken. I have been gone from the USA for 2 years and but
> >after some research I have found out that in my time gone that the
> >government has decided that we no longer need LORAN or any form of backup
> >for GPS.
>
> Yep. The US pulled the plug earlier this year:
> <http://www.navcen.uscg.gov/?pageName=loranMain>
> Also Canada, Africa, and Russia.
>
> Some European countries still have their systems running:
> <http://www.loran-europe.eu/viewpage.php?page_id=23>
> <http://www.loran-europe.eu/viewpage.php?page_id=5>
> but my guess is when Galileo is fully operational, Europe will also
> pull the plug. That may be many years with the current rate of
> funding and progress:
> <http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galileo_Navigation_System>
> Meanwhile their Loran-C system is still up mostly because they want to
> rely on a US controlled GPS system.
>
> >I can only hope that we will see the LORAN system come back in some form
in
> >the future. Is it just me or does it seem stupid to do away with out only
> >backup system for GPS?
>
> It depends on what you're trying to accomplish. Seen any cell phones
> with Loran-C for E911 location? Vehicle navigation systems with
> Loran-C? For many things, GPS is the only way it can be done (or done
> economically). Nobody wants a 10ft long amplified Loran antenna
> hanging off their cell phone.
>
> I don't think you'll see the Loran zombie rise from the dead.
>
> >LORAN is robust where as GPS seems qite frail in comparison. I have lost
GPS
> >signals in bad weather but never LORAN, but maybe this is just my
> >observations and not a true representation of the facts.
>
> GPS has its problems, but the latest units are sufficiently sensitive
> to work even in a storm. Location is important and having your
> receiver antenna below deck may cause reception problems. Try some of
> the newer "high sensitivity" GPS receivers and see if it works any
> better. If below deck on a handheld, thing about a docking station
> and external mast mounted antenna:
> <http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/High_Sensitivity_GPS>
>
>
> --
> Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
> 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
> Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
> Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

I hope LW RDF is still going , I liked the morse ident feature and its
simplicity. I doubt , over some distance , it is any less accurate than
Loran and no hyperbolic plots to deal with

== 3 of 5 ==
Date: Wed, Sep 1 2010 3:59 am
From: "Geoffrey S. Mendelson"

N_Cook wrote:
> I hope LW RDF is still going , I liked the morse ident feature and its
> simplicity. I doubt , over some distance , it is any less accurate than
> Loran and no hyperbolic plots to deal with

Even if it is still transmitting, the likelyhood of you being able to receive
it is dropping every day. Out in the ocean, on a sailboat, you can turn off
all of the devices that radiate noise on those frequencies, but on land
you can't.

In many large urban areas, it's just a large "cloud" of noise up to 15 mHz or
so, with most of it below 4mHz.

So you will be able to clearly receive the noise but not find a signal.

On the other hand if you are out in the ocean with an RDF, you can just
point it to the noise and find land. It may not be the land you want,
but it will be land.

Geoff.

--
Geoffrey S. Mendelson N3OWJ/4X1GM
To help restaurants, as part of the "stimulus package", everyone must order
dessert. As part of the socialized health plan, you are forbidden to eat it. :-)

== 4 of 5 ==
Date: Wed, Sep 1 2010 4:36 am
From: Meat Plow

On Wed, 01 Sep 2010 15:13:11 +0900, Michael Kennedy wrote:

> This started out as a repair issue, my LORAN unit wasn't getting a
> signal. I thought it was broken. I have been gone from the USA for 2
> years and but after some research I have found out that in my time gone
> that the government has decided that we no longer need LORAN or any form
> of backup for GPS.
>
> I can only hope that we will see the LORAN system come back in some form
> in the future. Is it just me or does it seem stupid to do away with out
> only backup system for GPS?
>
> LORAN is robust where as GPS seems qite frail in comparison. I have lost
> GPS signals in bad weather but never LORAN, but maybe this is just my
> observations and not a true representation of the facts.

I'm sure aviation and military GPS units are as robust as loran. Consumer
units might be helped by a better antenna.

--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

== 5 of 5 ==
Date: Wed, Sep 1 2010 10:41 am
From: Jeff Liebermann

On Wed, 1 Sep 2010 10:30:59 +0100, "N_Cook" <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote:

>I hope LW RDF is still going , I liked the morse ident feature and its
>simplicity. I doubt , over some distance , it is any less accurate than
>Loran and no hyperbolic plots to deal with

Yep. They're still alive and well. I still have a Taiho automagic
mechanically rotating LW RDF that I use for demonstrations. It's fun
to watch the loop seek and maybe point. Some of the LW beacon
stations are sending DGPS which have largely been replaced by WAAS
technology. Hearing LW beacons more than a few miles from shore is
tricky without a big antenna. You would probably be more successful
using AM, FM, and TV stations for coastline navigation, than using the
few LW stations.
<http://www.beaconworld.fotopic.net/list_collections.php>

Incidentally, the big problem with Loran-C was that it really didn't
work more than about 100 miles offshore. That limitation sold
considerable number of (pre-GPS) Transit and Omega systems as "backup"
for Loran-C. At least they worked in mid ocean. Incidentally, I
still have my Tamaya sextant and a Magnavox TRANSIT receiver in
storage.

If you want to do it thyself, it's possible to do 2D TRANSIT(NAVSAT)
doppler navigation if you can hear some LEO satellites, know the
Keplarian elements, and can accurately measure and record the doppler
shift as it passes overhead, using triangulation and trilateration.
The NIMS system may still be alive on 149.985 and 399.970 with
telemetry on 136.650 MHz although Keps appear to be lacking:
<http://www.zarya.info/Frequencies/Frequencies150.php>
Have your spherical geometry reference book handy. I've never
actually tried it, but it should be possible:
<http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Trilateration>

The Origins of GPS:
<http://www.gpsworld.com/gnss-system/gps-modernization/the-origins-gps-part-1-9890>
<http://www.gpsworld.com/gnss-system/gps-modernization/the-origins-gps-part-2-fighting-survive-10010>

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

==============================================================================
TOPIC: AF men and women coat made in china (http://www.brandtrade66.com )
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/025a9734c562085e?hl=en
==============================================================================

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==============================================================================
TOPIC: Yet another bulging-capacitors replacement
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/3ec97de65fce9bb3?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 5 ==
Date: Wed, Sep 1 2010 2:29 am
From: JW

On Tue, 31 Aug 2010 16:56:37 +0000 (UTC) Meat Plow <mhywatt@yahoo.com>
wrote in Message id: <pan.2010.08.31.16.56.27@hahahahahahahah.nutz.I.am>:

>On Tue, 31 Aug 2010 09:35:11 -0700, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
>
>> ncidentally, I repaired a P4 motherboard yesterday which used Artic
>> Silver. My guess is that there was about 5 times as much Artic Silver
>> smeared over the CPU (and down the sides where it does nothing) as
>> necessary. The stuff down the sides was still fluid, so at $10 for 3.5
>> grams, I saved the excess.
>
>Heh...reminds me of a previously repaired (not by me) QSC PLX series amp
>I opened up and scraped about a pound of white paste out of it.

You sure that someone hadn't left their marshmallows in there?

== 2 of 5 ==
Date: Wed, Sep 1 2010 4:43 am
From: Meat Plow

On Wed, 01 Sep 2010 05:29:47 -0400, JW wrote:

> On Tue, 31 Aug 2010 16:56:37 +0000 (UTC) Meat Plow <mhywatt@yahoo.com>
> wrote in Message id:
> <pan.2010.08.31.16.56.27@hahahahahahahah.nutz.I.am>:
>
>>On Tue, 31 Aug 2010 09:35:11 -0700, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
>>
>>> ncidentally, I repaired a P4 motherboard yesterday which used Artic
>>> Silver. My guess is that there was about 5 times as much Artic Silver
>>> smeared over the CPU (and down the sides where it does nothing) as
>>> necessary. The stuff down the sides was still fluid, so at $10 for
>>> 3.5 grams, I saved the excess.
>>
>>Heh...reminds me of a previously repaired (not by me) QSC PLX series amp
>>I opened up and scraped about a pound of white paste out of it.
>
> You sure that someone hadn't left their marshmallows in there?

That's a possibility. The 3402's did get hot enough under full load
to roast them.

--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

== 3 of 5 ==
Date: Wed, Sep 1 2010 8:08 am
From: "Michael A. Terrell"

Arfa Daily wrote:
>
> Well Jim, that was why I used the word "potentially", but judging by the
> size of the pins used to couple the power supply's output into the board -
> if you've been following the thread, you will recall that I previously
> described them as being of the size you would find on the line cord for a
> kettle - then I wouldn't say that there was too much in the way of reserve.

"The size you would find on the line cord for a kettle" doesn't have
much meaning in the US. :)

--
Politicians should only get paid if the budget is balanced, and there is
enough left over to pay them.

== 4 of 5 ==
Date: Wed, Sep 1 2010 9:47 am
From: Jeff Liebermann

On Wed, 1 Sep 2010 02:40:53 +0100, "Arfa Daily"
<arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote:

>All of the processing power is in those two BGAs Jeff.
(...)

Thanks for the details. I really don't know anything about such
dedicated game machines. I just assumed that all such machines used
common processors to make development easier.

>That's a LOT of processing power, needing a lot of amps to perform ...

I found the Kill-o-watt meter and stuffed it in line with my Dell
Optiplex 960 (E8500 3.2Ghz). 43 watts at idle, 70 watts max when
playing a DVD (not including LCD monitor). Speedfan 4.40 says 31C for
both CPU cores after about an hour. The one large fan is barely
spinning and very quiet (which is why I bought this one). When I set
the fan to run full speed, it's quite loud.

>The fan on these things *is* large, as is the heatsinking assembly, and when
>the processor finally decides to ramp the fan up, it sounds like a vacuum
>cleaner. For this reason, at idle they tend to run it at below what I would
>consider a 'sensible' minimum, exacerbating the thermal stresses on the
>chips, their (lead-free) soldering, and the board to which they are
>attached.

Well, theory suggests that the life of a semiconductor device is
greatly affected by the number of thermal cycles it experiences
(thermal fatigue). I don't know if this also applies to CPU's or
whatever is in those BGA chips (FPGA/GPU?), but might be something
else to worry about. I would guess(tm) that the large aluminum heat
sink would moderate any abrupt changes in temperature, thus making it
less of a concern. However, that might not be the case for the solder
balls supporting the BGA.

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

== 5 of 5 ==
Date: Wed, Sep 1 2010 9:54 am
From: "Arfa Daily"

"Michael A. Terrell" <mike.terrell@earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:m5ednfqzQtE_8ePRnZ2dnUVZ_qWdnZ2d@earthlink.com...
>
> Arfa Daily wrote:
>>
>> Well Jim, that was why I used the word "potentially", but judging by the
>> size of the pins used to couple the power supply's output into the
>> board -
>> if you've been following the thread, you will recall that I previously
>> described them as being of the size you would find on the line cord for a
>> kettle - then I wouldn't say that there was too much in the way of
>> reserve.
>
>
> "The size you would find on the line cord for a kettle" doesn't have
> much meaning in the US. :)
>
>
> --

Why is that ? You have electric kettles in your kitchens - I've used them.
Or don't you call them kettles ?. OK, anyway, if it's a better description,
the size of the round ground pin on a line cord that has a three pin plug.
Is that more meaningful ? 3/16" diameter maybe ? 4mm ?

Arfa

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Electronic Kenmore refrigerator not working, what does this sign mean
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/4fe72ade24c7a7db?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Wed, Sep 1 2010 3:50 am
From: Bob Villa

On Aug 31, 10:43 pm, Ignoramus20906 <ignoramus20...@NOSPAM.
20906.invalid> wrote:
> On 2010-09-01, Archon <Chipbee40_Spa...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>
>
> > On 8/31/2010 10:47 PM, Ignoramus20906 wrote:
>
> >>> Sounds like the start relay is fubar, and some current limit does not
> >>> trip a clicks-on switch.  And start relay is now a misnomer as these
> >>> have been replaced with thermistors.
>
> >> Yes, there is a thermistor puck inside the relay assembly.
>
> > I had the same problem recently, its the overload relay, actually
> > thermistors as previously noted.
>
> > This thread is for a different model but will help
>
> >http://www.applianceblog.com/mainforums/sears-kenmore/742-kenmore-sxs...
>
> > Your part would seem to be:-
>
> >http://www.partselect.com/PartDetail.aspx?Inventory=2007740&imgID=3&P...
>
> > replacement fixed mine , still running 12 months later.
>
> > JC
>
> Archon,
>
> I hope fervently that you are right. I bought those parts:
>
>    http://www.appliancepartspros.com/part_details.aspx?part_id=4013414 Part Number: AP4074064  
>    http://www.appliancepartspros.com/part_details.aspx?part_id=4074064 Part Number: AP4013414  
>
> Shipped from CA to IL, I will probably get them on Monday. I am very
> anxious.
>
> i

I didn't see any response to Bill's suggestion about the freezer not
defrosting (I have had this happen-timer can also fail while
defrosting, heat the freezer, defrost everything and melt plastic!)

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Whirlpool Refrigerator Fan Motor Problem
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/d822c52a2e9704a4?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Wed, Sep 1 2010 5:03 am
From: jaugustine@verizon.net

Hi,

I have a Whirlpool "top/bottom" refrigerator which is less than two
years old. The fan motor's perm. magnet rotor, which is of a power iron type
of composition, had a piece break off and fragmented. The fragments "jammed"
the motor. I used a shop vac to suck the pieces from the rotor and stator
assembly. Afterwards, the motor ran. I installed the motor, but I ordered
a new motor. I hope that the new motor will be a better quality, made in
America motor. Note: This fan is located in the back of the freezer
compartment.

If you have a Whirlpool "fridge", when your fridge is "running", make
sure the fan is also running. My fridge compartment temp rose to around 54
degrees due to the fan not running. I had to throw out a lot of food.

John

== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Wed, Sep 1 2010 5:22 am
From: jaugustine@verizon.net

Hi,

Correction:

"power" is suppose to be "powder" ("powder iron type").

John

On Wed, 01 Sep 2010 08:03:03 -0400, in sci.electronics.repair you wrote:

>Hi,
>
> I have a Whirlpool "top/bottom" refrigerator which is less than two
>years old. The fan motor's perm. magnet rotor, which is of a power iron type
>of composition, had a piece break off and fragmented. The fragments "jammed"
>the motor. I used a shop vac to suck the pieces from the rotor and stator
>assembly. Afterwards, the motor ran. I installed the motor, but I ordered
>a new motor. I hope that the new motor will be a better quality, made in
>America motor. Note: This fan is located in the back of the freezer
>compartment.
>
> If you have a Whirlpool "fridge", when your fridge is "running", make
>sure the fan is also running. My fridge compartment temp rose to around 54
>degrees due to the fan not running. I had to throw out a lot of food.
>
> John

== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Wed, Sep 1 2010 8:05 am
From: Meat Plow

On Wed, 01 Sep 2010 08:03:03 -0400, jaugustine wrote:

> Hi,
>
> I have a Whirlpool "top/bottom" refrigerator which is less than
> two
> years old. The fan motor's perm. magnet rotor, which is of a power iron
> type of composition, had a piece break off and fragmented. The
> fragments "jammed" the motor. I used a shop vac to suck the pieces from
> the rotor and stator assembly. Afterwards, the motor ran. I installed
> the motor, but I ordered a new motor. I hope that the new motor will be
> a better quality, made in America motor. Note: This fan is located in
> the back of the freezer compartment.
>
> If you have a Whirlpool "fridge", when your fridge is "running",
> make
> sure the fan is also running. My fridge compartment temp rose to
> around 54 degrees due to the fan not running. I had to throw out a lot
> of food.
>
> John

I have an Estate made by Whirlpool. Bought it back in 2003, no problems
so far.

--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

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