sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Today's topics:

* general question: mainboard caps - 6 messages, 6 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/1bf5ee3341246b6a?hl=en
* Cassette tape component - 4 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/11d09b6898cd0cae?hl=en
* Help needed to identify connector please - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/faf6b877e55f6221?hl=en
* My 1999 Toyota 4Runner digital clock is kaput (any ideas?) - 11 messages, 10
authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/3ca13817756091e9?hl=en
* pleasant surprise from MCM - 2 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/a4c659409064c74d?hl=en
* Cheap OKELY Sunglasses GUCCI Sunglasses Dior Sunglasses ED Hardy Sunglasses
Wholesale(http://www.24hoursneakers.com/) (PayPal Payment) - 1 messages, 1
author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/731d615cb4e01b97?hl=en

==============================================================================
TOPIC: general question: mainboard caps
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/1bf5ee3341246b6a?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 6 ==
Date: Tues, Sep 21 2010 12:49 am
From: "N_Cook"

goggling , probably Baby-Allis forceps

== 2 of 6 ==
Date: Tues, Sep 21 2010 9:44 am
From: Jeff Liebermann

On Mon, 20 Sep 2010 12:52:38 -0700 (PDT), Michael
<mrdarrett@gmail.com> wrote:

>I've got a couple of Intel boards (D865PERL) that have one bad
>electrolytic capacitor each. One board stopped working; the other
>still works, but has a bulging cap close to the CPU area. (Pics not
>yet available.)

My experience is that if you have the usual 8-10 identical capacitors
on the motherboard, and one is visibly defective, then the others are
highly likely to fail very soon. I replace *ALL* the caps of a
specific type. In particular, the caps around the CPU tend to die,
because of the heat and the high ripple current. Typically, I'll
replace 10 to 15 caps.

>Is desoldering these caps straightforward?

It varies. Some boards are very easy to unsolder. Others have
smaller holes for the leaded parts and are more difficult. A vacuum
desoldering station is best. Use plenty of heat and some liquid flux
so that you don't pull the plated thru hole out with the capacitor. If
you see a copper colored ring around a capacitor lead, you've probably
killed the board.

>Any special precautions
>re: multi-layered PCB traces?

If you don't have a tip that will heat both leads at the same time, or
don't have 3 arms so that you can use two soldering irons, all is not
lost. I heat up one lead, and rock the capacitor in the opposite
direction. After it moves a little, I heat the other lead, and rock
it in the opposite direction. Don't use brute force or you'll rip out
the plated through holes. Eventually, it comes out.

One lead is usually grounded where the large copper area acts as an
effective heat sink. This lead will be more difficult to unsolder
than the hot lead (usually +). I use a big, wide (1/4"), hot (850C),
chisel tip. Plenty of heat, and work fast. This will take some
practice. Find an old PCB and practice a little before attacking the
Intel motherboard.

>Any special gotchas to keep in mind
>when ordering replacement caps from say Mouser?

105C Low-ESR. Watch the case dimensions and lead spacing. If it will
fit, try to buy the next higher voltage rating. I'm partial to
Panasonic but will use Rubycon. Digikey, Mouser, and eBay (in that
order). I sometimes use polymer caps as replacements, when the
motherboard is worth fixing and the customer doesn't care about the
cost. Also, think about buying an ESR tester if you're going to make
a habit of this.

<http://www.badcaps.net>
<http://www.afrotechmods.com/groovy/capacitor_replacement/capacitor_replacement.htm>
<http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_plague>
<http://www.capacitorlab.com>

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

== 3 of 6 ==
Date: Tues, Sep 21 2010 11:28 am
From: Michael

On Sep 21, 9:44 am, Jeff Liebermann <je...@cruzio.com> wrote:
> On Mon, 20 Sep 2010 12:52:38 -0700 (PDT), Michael
>
> <mrdarr...@gmail.com> wrote:
> >I've got a couple of Intel boards (D865PERL) that have one bad
> >electrolytic capacitor each.  One board stopped working; the other
> >still works, but has a bulging cap close to the CPU area.  (Pics not
> >yet available.)
>
> My experience is that if you have the usual 8-10 identical capacitors
> on the motherboard, and one is visibly defective, then the others are
> highly likely to fail very soon.  I replace *ALL* the caps of a
> specific type.  In particular, the caps around the CPU tend to die,
> because of the heat and the high ripple current.  Typically, I'll
> replace 10 to 15 caps.
>
> >Is desoldering these caps straightforward?
>
> It varies.  Some boards are very easy to unsolder.  Others have
> smaller holes for the leaded parts and are more difficult.  A vacuum
> desoldering station is best.  Use plenty of heat and some liquid flux
> so that you don't pull the plated thru hole out with the capacitor. If
> you see a copper colored ring around a capacitor lead, you've probably
> killed the board.
>
> >Any special precautions
> >re: multi-layered PCB traces?
>
> If you don't have a tip that will heat both leads at the same time, or
> don't have 3 arms so that you can use two soldering irons, all is not
> lost.  I heat up one lead, and rock the capacitor in the opposite
> direction.  After it moves a little, I heat the other lead, and rock
> it in the opposite direction.  Don't use brute force or you'll rip out
> the plated through holes.  Eventually, it comes out.  
>
> One lead is usually grounded where the large copper area acts as an
> effective heat sink.  This lead will be more difficult to unsolder
> than the hot lead (usually +).  I use a big, wide (1/4"), hot (850C),
> chisel tip.  Plenty of heat, and work fast.  This will take some
> practice.  Find an old PCB and practice a little before attacking the
> Intel motherboard.
>
> >Any special gotchas to keep in mind
> >when ordering replacement caps from say Mouser?
>
> 105C Low-ESR.  Watch the case dimensions and lead spacing.  If it will
> fit, try to buy the next higher voltage rating.  I'm partial to
> Panasonic but will use Rubycon.  Digikey, Mouser, and eBay (in that
> order).  I sometimes use polymer caps as replacements, when the
> motherboard is worth fixing and the customer doesn't care about the
> cost.  Also, think about buying an ESR tester if you're going to make
> a habit of this.
>
> <http://www.badcaps.net>
> <http://www.afrotechmods.com/groovy/capacitor_replacement/capacitor_re...>
> <http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_plague>
> <http://www.capacitorlab.com>
>
> --
> Jeff Liebermann     je...@cruzio.com
> 150 Felker St #D    http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
> Santa Cruz CA 95060http://802.11junk.com
> Skype: JeffLiebermann     AE6KS    831-336-2558

Ok, thanks to everyone who replied. Seems doable... looks like I'm
going shopping for a vacuum desolderer.

Michael

== 4 of 6 ==
Date: Tues, Sep 21 2010 2:41 pm
From: whit3rd

On Sep 21, 11:28 am, Michael <mrdarr...@gmail.com> wrote:

> Ok, thanks to everyone who replied.  Seems doable... looks like I'm
> going shopping for a vacuum desolderer.

For a one-off project, desoldering braid (it sucks up solder like a
sponge)
is almost as good, and doesn't have the sticker-shock effect.

Practice on a scrap board or two FIRST. It's easy to damage
things while the iron is hot and the polymers are soft.

== 5 of 6 ==
Date: Tues, Sep 21 2010 3:27 pm
From: PlainBill47@yawho.com

On Mon, 20 Sep 2010 12:52:38 -0700 (PDT), Michael
<mrdarrett@gmail.com> wrote:

>Hello,
>
>I've got a couple of Intel boards (D865PERL) that have one bad
>electrolytic capacitor each. One board stopped working; the other
>still works, but has a bulging cap close to the CPU area. (Pics not
>yet available.)
>
>Is desoldering these caps straightforward? Any special precautions
>re: multi-layered PCB traces? Any special gotchas to keep in mind
>when ordering replacement caps from say Mouser?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Michael

I've done this on motherboards; it's tedious, but practical. The
suggestions from others are good. Here's a few things I discovered.

While vacuum desoldering tools work well, you have to heat the board
to the point where the solder on the ground lead melts all the way
through the board. The vacuum desoldering tools aren't real efficient
at transfereing heat unless you add a little solder or flux to each
lead you are going to unsolder.

The technique I settled on was to use a 40 watt soldering iron with a
chisel tip. Heat up one leg, add a dab of Chip-Quik, rock the cap
toward the opposite side. Heat up the other leg, add Chip-Quik, rock
cap to other side. Repeat with the heating and rocking until the cap
drops out. While it's still hot, push an iron or stanless steel
needle through the hole (I use a dissecting pick I got in the '60's).
Remove the pick when the solder has cooled; reheat the other hole and
use the needle.

Make sure you keep a chart identifying which cap goes where. Patience
is necessary. Make sure you clean up all stray solder.

PlainBill

== 6 of 6 ==
Date: Tues, Sep 21 2010 4:59 pm
From: "tm"

<PlainBill47@yawho.com> wrote in message
news:4lbi965jd71ul7r54uffsdis8ak4etl90f@4ax.com...
> On Mon, 20 Sep 2010 12:52:38 -0700 (PDT), Michael
> <mrdarrett@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>>Hello,
>>
>>I've got a couple of Intel boards (D865PERL) that have one bad
>>electrolytic capacitor each. One board stopped working; the other
>>still works, but has a bulging cap close to the CPU area. (Pics not
>>yet available.)
>>
>>Is desoldering these caps straightforward? Any special precautions
>>re: multi-layered PCB traces? Any special gotchas to keep in mind
>>when ordering replacement caps from say Mouser?
>>
>>Thanks,
>>
>>Michael
>
> I've done this on motherboards; it's tedious, but practical. The
> suggestions from others are good. Here's a few things I discovered.
>
> While vacuum desoldering tools work well, you have to heat the board
> to the point where the solder on the ground lead melts all the way
> through the board. The vacuum desoldering tools aren't real efficient
> at transfereing heat unless you add a little solder or flux to each
> lead you are going to unsolder.
>
> The technique I settled on was to use a 40 watt soldering iron with a
> chisel tip. Heat up one leg, add a dab of Chip-Quik, rock the cap
> toward the opposite side. Heat up the other leg, add Chip-Quik, rock
> cap to other side. Repeat with the heating and rocking until the cap
> drops out. While it's still hot, push an iron or stanless steel
> needle through the hole (I use a dissecting pick I got in the '60's).
> Remove the pick when the solder has cooled; reheat the other hole and
> use the needle.
>
> Make sure you keep a chart identifying which cap goes where. Patience
> is necessary. Make sure you clean up all stray solder.
>
> PlainBill

Good advise and also make sure you take note of the polarity.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Cassette tape component
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/11d09b6898cd0cae?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 4 ==
Date: Tues, Sep 21 2010 1:18 am
From: "Arfa Daily"

<snip>

>
> Many symptoms seem to point to a faulty motor, but it's curious. The
> playback motor was working. When I swapped it into the record-deck, I
> also got the same result (just 3 clicks, then nothing).
>
> If you can think of anything else, I'm all ears, but as of now, the score
> is as follows:
>
> Matsushita: 2 (assuming I'm forced to pitch both units)
> Me: zero :-(
>
> In any event, you've been extremely helpful, and it is -very- much
> appreciated.
>
> Prost,
> P

It's very unusual for these motors to fail totally, and I would be surprised
if you were unlucky enough to have experienced two under the same roof. Time
for some more detailed observations, I think. *Exactly* what happens when
you attempt to play ? Any motor movement at all ? What about if you try
other functions such as wind or rewind ? Have you managed to bypass the tape
presence switch ? Have you tried 'working' the deck by hand i.e. press the
solenoid plunger in with a small screwdriver tip. You should see the cam
gear 'unlock'. Then rotate the forward capstan (left as you look at the
back) clockwise (viewing from the back). This should cause the cam gear to
rotate to the next phase and relock. Probably "fast forward", but might be
"play". You should be able to do that for all four phases, and make sure
that the deck is doing what it should be mechanically at least.

Arfa

== 2 of 4 ==
Date: Tues, Sep 21 2010 3:09 pm
From: Puddin' Man

On Tue, 21 Sep 2010 09:18:26 +0100, "Arfa Daily" <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote:

>It's very unusual for these motors to fail totally, and I would be surprised
>if you were unlucky enough to have experienced two under the same roof. Time
>for some more detailed observations, I think.
>
>*Exactly* what happens when you attempt to play ?

Exactly 4 clicks. Solenoid plunger pulls in, comes back out, pulls in again,
comes back out again.

>Any motor movement at all ?

None perceptible.

>What about if you try other functions such as wind or rewind ?

Same as 'play' above.

>Have you managed to bypass the tape presence switch ?

I dunno which it is. There are 3 for which I cannot trace the circuitry.
But I confirmed that all switch circuits were closed except for the
sensor for plate height (head position). When I short that
one, the solenoid actuates.

>Have you tried 'working' the deck by hand i.e. press the solenoid plunger in
>with a small screwdriver tip. You should see the cam gear 'unlock'.

I can't see the gear without dis-assembling the drive components (again).

>Then rotate the forward capstan (left as you look at the back) clockwise
>(viewing from the back). This should cause the cam gear to rotate to the next
>phase and relock.

I can hear it click.

>Probably "fast forward", but might be
>"play". You should be able to do that for all four phases, and make sure
>that the deck is doing what it should be mechanically at least.

Not sure I follow that.
When I continue to rotate, I get additional clicks. After 2, the cassette
won't come out. After another click it will.

Major (weird) news. You'll recall I have 2 RS-TR255's, call 'em A. and B.
I've been working on A. Thought to check something on B. to see if it
was same as A., pulled the cover, tested playback, and it worked. It failed
per A. less than a week ago. Also does reverse play, FF, etc.

There are 4 gold screws on the drive plate on B. that are absent on A.
Looks like they just keep the big wheel from coming off (but it's shaft
does that). I thought to install the 4 screws on the A. unit, but it
wouldn't take 'em: screw holes *look* the same, but they aren't
threaded as on B. I double-checked, both A. and B. are RS-TR255's.

Strange, eh? Well, at least I won't be chucking B. in the garbage for
a while. I even got readings on the vu, so I guess it's working (for now).

Thanks,
P

"Law Without Equity Is No Law At All. It Is A Form Of Jungle Rule."

== 3 of 4 ==
Date: Tues, Sep 21 2010 6:02 pm
From: "Arfa Daily"

"Puddin' Man" <puddingDOTman@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:j5bi965f3m57qf3n6d374psbsv1ljaajn8@4ax.com...
> On Tue, 21 Sep 2010 09:18:26 +0100, "Arfa Daily" <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com>
> wrote:
>
>>It's very unusual for these motors to fail totally, and I would be
>>surprised
>>if you were unlucky enough to have experienced two under the same roof.
>>Time
>>for some more detailed observations, I think.
>>
>>*Exactly* what happens when you attempt to play ?
>
> Exactly 4 clicks. Solenoid plunger pulls in, comes back out, pulls in
> again,
> comes back out again.
>
>>Any motor movement at all ?
>
> None perceptible.
>
>>What about if you try other functions such as wind or rewind ?
>
> Same as 'play' above.
>
>>Have you managed to bypass the tape presence switch ?
>
> I dunno which it is. There are 3 for which I cannot trace the circuitry.
> But I confirmed that all switch circuits were closed except for the
> sensor for plate height (head position). When I short that
> one, the solenoid actuates.

With no tape in place, the deck should do nothing - no clicks, no motor
movement, zip, zilch, nada. Now, if you press each switch up in turn with a
finger tip, one of them should get the deck doing something - even if it's
just the solenoid clicking behaviour. The switch that you had to press to
get that, is the tape presence switch.

>
>>Have you tried 'working' the deck by hand i.e. press the solenoid plunger
>>in
>>with a small screwdriver tip. You should see the cam gear 'unlock'.
>
> I can't see the gear without dis-assembling the drive components (again).
>
>>Then rotate the forward capstan (left as you look at the back) clockwise
>>(viewing from the back). This should cause the cam gear to rotate to the
>>next
>>phase and relock.
>
> I can hear it click.
>
>>Probably "fast forward", but might be
>>"play". You should be able to do that for all four phases, and make sure
>>that the deck is doing what it should be mechanically at least.
>
> Not sure I follow that.
> When I continue to rotate, I get additional clicks. After 2, the cassette
> won't come out. After another click it will.

You don't need (or want) a tape in place to work the deck by hand. You don't
want any power applied either. The cam gear should have four phases. That is
"stop" or neutral, "FF", "Play" and "Rew". The periphery of the cam gear has
four positions with missing teeth that correspond to each of these phase
positions, and four raised latch catches on the surface, which also
correspond. The lever worked by the solenoid, catches on these latch
positions in turn. The cam has a bias spring to keep it pressed against the
latch lever. Suppose the cam has the deck in the "stop" position. The
missing teeth in the cam gear periphery which correspond to that position,
will be over the drive gear which is at the centre of the forward capstan.
So the capstan can freely rotate, without driving the cam gear. When the
solenoid is activated to select a transport mode - say "FF" - the latch will
disengage, and the bias spring will start to rotate the cam gear, until the
tooth-free area has moved around, and the next section which has teeth, has
engaged with the gear at the centre of the capstan. By this time, the motor
should be running, and driving the capstan. This, in turn, will drive the
cam gear round until it reaches the next area where teeth are missing. This
will stop the cam in the new position, and the solenoid latch will drop onto
the catch at that position on the cam gear surface, and hold the gear at
that position, again against the bias spring. At this time, various levers
running in grooves under the gear, will have moved their positions to work
what ever bits of mech that they have to i.e. moving reel idlers into place
and disengaging reel brakes etc.

>
> Major (weird) news. You'll recall I have 2 RS-TR255's, call 'em A. and B.
> I've been working on A. Thought to check something on B. to see if it
> was same as A., pulled the cover, tested playback, and it worked. It
> failed
> per A. less than a week ago. Also does reverse play, FF, etc.
>
> There are 4 gold screws on the drive plate on B. that are absent on A.
> Looks like they just keep the big wheel from coming off (but it's shaft
> does that). I thought to install the 4 screws on the A. unit, but it
> wouldn't take 'em: screw holes *look* the same, but they aren't
> threaded as on B. I double-checked, both A. and B. are RS-TR255's.
>
> Strange, eh? Well, at least I won't be chucking B. in the garbage for
> a while. I even got readings on the vu, so I guess it's working (for now).
>
> Thanks,
> P

That is odd. The 255 does not appear to be a model that was valid in the UK,
so I can't get data for it off the Pan engineering website. There is a 155
on there, which might be pretty similar. Have you checked for voltage at the
"+" terminal of the motor when it should be running ? The motor should have
4 terminals. "-" is common to chassis, "+" should have switched 12v on it,
and "A" and "B" are the speed control terminals

Arfa

== 4 of 4 ==
Date: Tues, Sep 21 2010 6:06 pm
From: "Arfa Daily"

>
> That is odd. The 255 does not appear to be a model that was valid in the
> UK, so I can't get data for it off the Pan engineering website. There is a
> 155 on there, which might be pretty similar. Have you checked for voltage
> at the "+" terminal of the motor when it should be running ? The motor
> should have 4 terminals. "-" is common to chassis, "+" should have
> switched 12v on it, and "A" and "B" are the speed control terminals
>
> Arfa

Just checked. The service manual for the 155 is the same as for the 255

Arfa

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Help needed to identify connector please
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/faf6b877e55f6221?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Tues, Sep 21 2010 1:28 am
From: Kenuf

On Mon, 20 Sep 2010 22:58:56 +0100, Adrian C <email@here.invalid>
wrote:

>On 20/09/2010 18:52, Kenuf wrote:
>
>> The distance between the pins is about 5.5mm and the 2 wider spaced
>> pins are about 8.0mm.
>>
>> For those interested this is from an industrial dish washing machine
>> made in Italy. The make is Colged. The parts are not available from
>> the manufacturer.
>> I am told it is four to five years old, looks like tin solder so could
>> be right.
>>
>> Kenuf
>
>Here you go. :-)
>
><http://www.camdenelec.com/pdf/CTM1300.pdf>
>
>Manufactured in the UK. If they won't deal direct with you, Farnell, CPC
>or Rapid Electronics are listed as distributors.

Hi Adrian C,

Many thanks for the link, I am very grateful indeed.

Thanks also to all others who have replied. It is my first excursion
to this group, I have not been dissapointed.

Kenuf

==============================================================================
TOPIC: My 1999 Toyota 4Runner digital clock is kaput (any ideas?)
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/3ca13817756091e9?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 11 ==
Date: Tues, Sep 21 2010 3:53 am
From: Adrian C

On 21/09/2010 07:14, Y Knot wrote:
> Any ideas how to fix the $250 Toyota 4Runner digital clock?

plasma cutter

--
Adrian C

== 2 of 11 ==
Date: Tues, Sep 21 2010 4:13 am
From: JW

On Tue, 21 Sep 2010 11:53:02 +0100 Adrian C <email@here.invalid> wrote in
Message id: <8frh4cF7n0U2@mid.individual.net>:

>On 21/09/2010 07:14, Y Knot wrote:
>> Any ideas how to fix the $250 Toyota 4Runner digital clock?
>
>plasma cutter

Angle grinder. (Here we go again.)

== 3 of 11 ==
Date: Tues, Sep 21 2010 4:16 am
From: "Nancy Young"

Y Knot wrote:
> Any ideas how to fix the $250 Toyota 4Runner digital clock?

A stick on clock over it?

nancy

== 4 of 11 ==
Date: Tues, Sep 21 2010 4:27 am
From: PeterD

On Tue, 21 Sep 2010 07:13:05 -0400, JW <none@dev.null> wrote:

>On Tue, 21 Sep 2010 11:53:02 +0100 Adrian C <email@here.invalid> wrote in
>Message id: <8frh4cF7n0U2@mid.individual.net>:
>
>>On 21/09/2010 07:14, Y Knot wrote:
>>> Any ideas how to fix the $250 Toyota 4Runner digital clock?
>>
>>plasma cutter
>
>Angle grinder. (Here we go again.)

Air chisel.

== 5 of 11 ==
Date: Tues, Sep 21 2010 4:28 am
From: PeterD

On Tue, 21 Sep 2010 06:14:24 +0000 (UTC), Y Knot <yknot@unut.com>
wrote:

>Any ideas how to fix the $250 Toyota 4Runner digital clock?

Junk yard?

Personally, for something that old, I'd just get a cheap stick on
clock from the local chinese crap stuff sellers...

== 6 of 11 ==
Date: Tues, Sep 21 2010 5:59 am
From: Archon

On 9/21/2010 2:14 AM, Y Knot wrote:
> Any ideas how to fix the $250 Toyota 4Runner digital clock?
Ebay is your friend :

<URL:http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Clock-Toyota-4Runner-96-02-4-Runner-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem1e58f6496dQQitemZ130341554541QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories>

If the link doesn't work search Ebay item 130341554541

JC

== 7 of 11 ==
Date: Tues, Sep 21 2010 7:21 am
From: aemeijers

On 9/21/2010 2:14 AM, Y Knot wrote:
> Any ideas how to fix the $250 Toyota 4Runner digital clock?

If you have to ask, it is probably beyond your skill set. But have you
tried taking it out and cleaning all the connections, looking for bare
or shorted wires, etc? No idea how many boards and bells and whistles
the thing has, but unless it has trip functions or something, most are
pretty simple. Wander around in the junkyard, and see if any other years
and models are interchangeable. Does it not show numbers at all, or is
the light just out? If the latter, the bulbs are usually replaceable.

The folks over in the Toyota truck groups may have better suggestions
and hints.

--
aem sends...

== 8 of 11 ==
Date: Tues, Sep 21 2010 9:47 am
From: clare@snyder.on.ca

On Tue, 21 Sep 2010 10:21:12 -0400, aemeijers <aemeijers@att.net>
wrote:

>On 9/21/2010 2:14 AM, Y Knot wrote:
>> Any ideas how to fix the $250 Toyota 4Runner digital clock?
>
>If you have to ask, it is probably beyond your skill set. But have you
>tried taking it out and cleaning all the connections, looking for bare
>or shorted wires, etc? No idea how many boards and bells and whistles
>the thing has, but unless it has trip functions or something, most are
>pretty simple. Wander around in the junkyard, and see if any other years
>and models are interchangeable. Does it not show numbers at all, or is
>the light just out? If the latter, the bulbs are usually replaceable.
>
>The folks over in the Toyota truck groups may have better suggestions
>and hints.

First, the OBVIOUS. Are BOTH fuses good? It needs 2 power sources (and
on some a third for lighting or dimming.

If they are all good the wreckers are your friend. I believe pickup
clocks also fit - and there used to be several applications where by
changing the plastic you could use a totally different application's
clock.

== 9 of 11 ==
Date: Tues, Sep 21 2010 3:30 pm
From: PlainBill47@yawho.com

On Tue, 21 Sep 2010 06:14:24 +0000 (UTC), Y Knot <yknot@unut.com>
wrote:

>Any ideas how to fix the $250 Toyota 4Runner digital clock?
Why bother. It's accurate twice a day; more than you could say when
it was 'working'.

PlainBill

== 10 of 11 ==
Date: Tues, Sep 21 2010 4:58 pm
From: camryguy

On Sep 21, 3:14 am, Y Knot <yk...@unut.com> wrote:
> Any ideas how to fix the $250 Toyota 4Runner digital clock?

Hi there, I had a similar problem with my 2000 Camry LE. I went to the
dealer to get a new one, but they quoted me 300+ tax. I went on Ebay
and found someone who would fix the clock and ship it back to me. That
was about 2.5 yrs ago and the clock is still working fine. Mine is the
external thermometer/clock combo. I think it was around 50 bucks for
the shipping and repair.

I believe this was the guy that did it:
http://cgi.ebay.ca/Toyota-Camry-Corolla-4Runner-Matrix-Clock-/200495187786?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2eae71c74a

== 11 of 11 ==
Date: Tues, Sep 21 2010 5:40 pm
From: Steve Barker

On 9/21/2010 1:14 AM, Y Knot wrote:
> Any ideas how to fix the $250 Toyota 4Runner digital clock?

ya, run it off in a river and buy an American car.

--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email

==============================================================================
TOPIC: pleasant surprise from MCM
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/a4c659409064c74d?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Tues, Sep 21 2010 4:59 am
From: "Mark Zacharias"

"William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:i77p0r$1e7$1@news.eternal-september.org...
>I recently purchased two "switched" surge suppressors from MCM. (Turning on
> a master device turns on all the devices connected to the "controlled"
> outlets. I use them to switch my power amps on and off with the electronic
> crossovers.)
>
> One was defective -- the controlled outlets shut off after about 1
> second --
> and I returned the unit for replacement. Much to my surprise, they
> refunded
> the full shipping charges. I also got very courteous treatment over the
> phone.
>
> --
> "We already know the answers -- we just haven't asked the right
> questions." -- Edwin Land
>
>

They can afford it. Their prices probably average at least 20% higher than
they need to, and their freight and handling charges are inflated.

Mark Z.

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Tues, Sep 21 2010 5:38 am
From: "William Sommerwerck"

> They can afford it. Their prices probably average at least
> 20% higher than they need to, and their freight and handling
> charges are inflated.

I usually check prices among dealers before buying anything. The $24 (each)
these items cost seemed reasonable, and shipping /was/ "free". MCM's prices
on their "house" items (of which this one) do seem to bounce around,
sometimes quite a bit, so it makes sense to wait for a "sale".

There is no "free lunch". But it's nice to have decent customer service for
a change. You can't have that, and the lowest price, at the same time.

PS: It's so easy to complain about bad service, that I thought it
appropriate to compliment good service. This group's responses have
generally had an implied tone of "You're really an idiot", which I don't
appreciate.

==============================================================================
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http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/731d615cb4e01b97?hl=en
==============================================================================

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