sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Today's topics:

* Today's Odd 'un ... - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/142b02de8c0e2045?hl=en
* Riding an air bag - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/0d8fff4e5e1ab554?hl=en
* VFD's (Vacuum Florescent Displays) revitalized - observation - 1 messages, 1
author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/4aeeb4626fa8437b?hl=en
* Need to buy a long Phillips no. 1 screwdriver - 7 messages, 6 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/105a0819a4728e8c?hl=en
* SELENA GOMEZ Nude Photoshoot ( Charged $2 million FOR POSING NUDE ) - 1
messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/74f94f3a6959e605?hl=en
* Zeners in series - 5 messages, 4 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/aac92dec501a08cb?hl=en
* Sherwood RD6106 tuner amp, prob 2000 year - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/6bd29a50c856b3cd?hl=en

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Today's Odd 'un ...
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/142b02de8c0e2045?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Thurs, Oct 28 2010 6:36 pm
From: "Arfa Daily"

<snip>

>>
>> Arfa
>
> The IDE controller and the BIOS of the unit probably doesn't do 48 bit LBA
> so you might try to jumper a drive to limit its size to 137 GB or less.
> My Fostex D90 won't see anything past 4.3GB even with a 10GB installed
> but it still operates at 4.3GB. But then there is no limitation of 48 BIT
> translation as the old drives less that 137 GB use 28 bit logical block
> addressing. Just a thought.
>
>
>
> --
> Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

Well, it's all a bit academic now ... My mate had just had a huge clearout,
and dumped all his 'recovered' drives, but he rang another friend who is a
PC recycler, and he said that he had 40 gig drives coming out of his ears,
and I was welcome to one for free, if I wanted to go over to his place to
pick one up. So I made the 20 mile round trip, and picked a drive up. I hung
it in the unit, got the error message with a request to format the drive,
started that going, and Lo ! - it did it in about 2 seconds flat. Result ! I
thought ...

However, with an input on any channel, there was no response - no signal
presence light, no peak light, no dancing segments in the display. A few
voltage measurements determined that the PSU was not outputting any +15v to
the analogue input board, so back out it came. 4R7 sm resistor in the feed
to the +15v regulator transistor was open. The transistor itself was also
short circuit, and the zener. After replacing these, the +15v was back, but
still no response from the analogue board, so I guess that the opamps on
there had probably been twatted as the psu failed. This brought me to the
point of serious debate as to whether it was worth carrying on. This issue
was promptly resolved by a slip of the meter probe when the phone rang and
startled me. The +48v phantom feed goes up to the analogue board, along with
+ / - 15v and +5v. Guess which pin the 48v is right next to ...? Yep, the
5v, and the very next place it goes is the hard drive. "Squeal - squeal -
squeal " goes the replacement HDD, as the mouse that runs it inside, is
electrocuted ...

With a sigh, I reached for the pot of screws, and put it all back together.
Some faults are just not intended to be repaired. To be honest, I had
reservations about this right from the start, but when work is quiet, and
you are presented with what looks like a straightforward problem, it's easy
to get sucked in. Note to myself. Trust your instincts, boy ... :-(

Arfa

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Riding an air bag
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/0d8fff4e5e1ab554?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Thurs, Oct 28 2010 6:47 pm
From: RoadRunner

Talk about getting off!

http://www.craigboyce.com/w/2010/10/riding-an-air-bag/

==============================================================================
TOPIC: VFD's (Vacuum Florescent Displays) revitalized - observation
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/4aeeb4626fa8437b?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Thurs, Oct 28 2010 7:46 pm
From: Cydrome Leader

N_Cook <diverse@tcp.co.uk> wrote:
> Tim Schwartz <tim@bristolnj.com> wrote in message
> news:4CC98D32.4090101@bristolnj.com...
>> Hello all,
>>
>> An odd way to repair something story. I have an old (1983) Canon desk
>> top calculator with a VFD. (Model CP-1230D) The display is 12 digits and
>> the digits that DON'T get used very often are quite a bit dimmer.
>> (Unfortunately, I don't get into the Thousand dollar range that often.)
>>
>> One brand of equipment that I service has had similar problems with
>> some of their VFD's. Their cure is to update the unit with a version of
>> software that allows you to press a few keys and light up the entire
>> display, and leave it that way for 24 hours. I was very skeptical the
>> first time I did this, but within 5-10 minutes you can already see
>> improvement!
>>
>> So, I decided to try this on my calculator by typing in all eights and
>> leaving it on over night. Much to my surprise it restored the dim
>> segments to the same brightness as the others.
>>
>> I'm not saying that this is a cure all or will work on every dim VFD,
>> but it costs almost nothing and is simple enough to try. Please post
>> any results if you try this.
>>
>> Best regards,
>> Tim Schwartz
>> Bristol Electronics
>
>
> It begs the question - what makes cold cathode displays/ VFD go dim in the
> first place ? I assume a surface chemical effect

VFDs aren't cold cathode. They have very thin filaments that usually run
across the display. They are coated with some sort of white stuff,
probably the same stuff in regular vacuum tube.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Need to buy a long Phillips no. 1 screwdriver
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/105a0819a4728e8c?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 7 ==
Date: Thurs, Oct 28 2010 8:13 pm
From: mm

I need to buy a long Phillips no. 1 screwdriver.

With a shank 8 inches long and a handle 3 or 4 inches long, for a
total of 11 to 12 inches.

I've had one for almost 30 years, and I finally ruined it, taking out
a screw that was in tightly. It was a cheap one, but it worked well
enough until now.

I figured a new one wouldn't be cheap but I can't find one at all, not
at Ace Hardware, HomeDepot, Lowes, or ever Mouser. (Home Depot has a
number 2, but no number 1. :( )

Where should I look next?

Thanks.

== 2 of 7 ==
Date: Thurs, Oct 28 2010 8:20 pm
From: Bob AZ

> Where should I look next?
>
> Thanks.

MM

Sears. Have a 1 and 2 that I use almost daily rapairing photo darkroom
equip. Also Snap-On if you can eat the price.

Bob AZ

== 3 of 7 ==
Date: Thurs, Oct 28 2010 8:21 pm
From: Smitty Two

In article <nmekc6lo9sv6jatug8rao0jiilhr6u2j3q@4ax.com>,
mm <NOPSAMmm2005@bigfoot.com> wrote:

> I need to buy a long Phillips no. 1 screwdriver.
>
> With a shank 8 inches long and a handle 3 or 4 inches long, for a
> total of 11 to 12 inches.
>
> I've had one for almost 30 years, and I finally ruined it, taking out
> a screw that was in tightly. It was a cheap one, but it worked well
> enough until now.
>
> I figured a new one wouldn't be cheap but I can't find one at all, not
> at Ace Hardware, HomeDepot, Lowes, or ever Mouser. (Home Depot has a
> number 2, but no number 1. :( )
>
> Where should I look next?
>
> Thanks.

Google sez Amazon's got 'em.

<http://www.amazon.com/Klein-P18-Phillips-Tip-Screwdriver-8-Inch-Round-Sh
ank/dp/B0000BYEPU>

== 4 of 7 ==
Date: Thurs, Oct 28 2010 10:02 pm
From: dplatt@radagast.org (Dave Platt)

In article <nmekc6lo9sv6jatug8rao0jiilhr6u2j3q@4ax.com>,
mm <NOPSAMmm2005@bigfoot.com> wrote:

>I need to buy a long Phillips no. 1 screwdriver.
>
>With a shank 8 inches long and a handle 3 or 4 inches long, for a
>total of 11 to 12 inches.
>
>I've had one for almost 30 years, and I finally ruined it, taking out
>a screw that was in tightly. It was a cheap one, but it worked well
>enough until now.
>
>I figured a new one wouldn't be cheap but I can't find one at all, not
>at Ace Hardware, HomeDepot, Lowes, or ever Mouser. (Home Depot has a
>number 2, but no number 1. :( )
>
>Where should I look next?

www.tecnni-tool.com, or other companies which carry Xcelite products.

Their part number 272SC808 is an Xcelite Phillips #1, 10" shaft, 13
5/8" overall, for $7.57.

Part #272SC866 is similar but with the Phillips #1 "Super-Tru" tip,
for $8.67.

They also have a matched set of six "Triton" extra-long-handle ESD
screwdrivers - Phillips #1 through #3, one slotted, three Torx, for a
cool $62.01.

--
Dave Platt <dplatt@radagast.org> AE6EO
Friends of Jade Warrior home page: http://www.radagast.org/jade-warrior
I do _not_ wish to receive unsolicited commercial email, and I will
boycott any company which has the gall to send me such ads!

== 5 of 7 ==
Date: Thurs, Oct 28 2010 10:28 pm
From: "Michael A. Terrell"

mm wrote:
>
> I need to buy a long Phillips no. 1 screwdriver.
>
> With a shank 8 inches long and a handle 3 or 4 inches long, for a
> total of 11 to 12 inches.
>
> I've had one for almost 30 years, and I finally ruined it, taking out
> a screw that was in tightly. It was a cheap one, but it worked well
> enough until now.
>
> I figured a new one wouldn't be cheap but I can't find one at all, not
> at Ace Hardware, HomeDepot, Lowes, or ever Mouser. (Home Depot has a
> number 2, but no number 1. :( )
>
> Where should I look next?

How about an imported tool dealer at a flea market? I bought a pair
of longer ones for a buck, a while back.

You can always file a #2 down if you're desperate.

When I can't buy what I need, I braze a 1/4" hex bit to the end of a
piece of 1/4" drill rod. The other end can have a tee handle welded on,
another hex bit to fit a cordless screwdriver, or to the end of a worn
out # 2 Philips screwdriver. Blank handle stock is available, but
expensive compared to a cheap screwdriver. A pair of cheap drill press
vises keep them aligned while brazing, and if you wear it out you simply
cut off the bad bit and replace it.

--
Politicians should only get paid if the budget is balanced, and there is
enough left over to pay them.

== 6 of 7 ==
Date: Thurs, Oct 28 2010 10:40 pm
From: dplatt@radagast.org (Dave Platt)

>www.tecnni-tool.com, or other companies which carry Xcelite products.

Oops... sorry, typo.

Try http://www.techni-tool.com/

--
Dave Platt <dplatt@radagast.org> AE6EO
Friends of Jade Warrior home page: http://www.radagast.org/jade-warrior
I do _not_ wish to receive unsolicited commercial email, and I will
boycott any company which has the gall to send me such ads!

== 7 of 7 ==
Date: Fri, Oct 29 2010 12:24 am
From: AZ Nomad

On Thu, 28 Oct 2010 23:13:33 -0400, mm <NOPSAMmm2005@bigfoot.com> wrote:
>I need to buy a long Phillips no. 1 screwdriver.

>With a shank 8 inches long and a handle 3 or 4 inches long, for a
>total of 11 to 12 inches.

>I've had one for almost 30 years, and I finally ruined it, taking out
>a screw that was in tightly. It was a cheap one, but it worked well
>enough until now.

>I figured a new one wouldn't be cheap but I can't find one at all, not
>at Ace Hardware, HomeDepot, Lowes, or ever Mouser. (Home Depot has a
>number 2, but no number 1. :( )

>Where should I look next?

jfgi

==============================================================================
TOPIC: SELENA GOMEZ Nude Photoshoot ( Charged $2 million FOR POSING NUDE )
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/74f94f3a6959e605?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Thurs, Oct 28 2010 9:52 pm
From: baptist

I have Hidden the videos....... CLICK on the IMAGE below the SEARCH
BOX for videos http://www.hollywoodgirls.euro.st

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Zeners in series
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/aac92dec501a08cb?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 5 ==
Date: Thurs, Oct 28 2010 10:10 pm
From: Steve Kraus

Just wanted to be sure of this. If you connect two zeners in series with
the same polarity the effect is the same as having one zener of the sum of
the two voltages, right?

== 2 of 5 ==
Date: Thurs, Oct 28 2010 10:30 pm
From: "Michael A. Terrell"

Steve Kraus wrote:
>
> Just wanted to be sure of this. If you connect two zeners in series with
> the same polarity the effect is the same as having one zener of the sum of
> the two voltages, right?

Yes, as long as you don't exceed the curent either diode is rated
for. If you do, that diode will overheat and short.

--
Politicians should only get paid if the budget is balanced, and there is
enough left over to pay them.

== 3 of 5 ==
Date: Fri, Oct 29 2010 12:19 am
From: "N_Cook"

Steve Kraus <screen@SPAMBLOCKfilmteknik.com> wrote in message
news:TsGdnTFrO6H_ylfRnZ2dnUVZ_qGdnZ2d@earthlink.com...
> Just wanted to be sure of this. If you connect two zeners in series with
> the same polarity the effect is the same as having one zener of the sum of
> the two voltages, right?

While at it 2 diacs in series , assuming 2x 8V ones , would give 8V ?
What if high ohm balancing R across each, too high to turn on the associated
device?

== 4 of 5 ==
Date: Fri, Oct 29 2010 1:14 am
From: "Arfa Daily"

"Steve Kraus" <screen@SPAMBLOCKfilmteknik.com> wrote in message
news:TsGdnTFrO6H_ylfRnZ2dnUVZ_qGdnZ2d@earthlink.com...
> Just wanted to be sure of this. If you connect two zeners in series with
> the same polarity the effect is the same as having one zener of the sum of
> the two voltages, right?

Basically, yes. I do it all the time. Doesn't usually work out *quite*
right, but close enough as not to normally matter.

Arfa

== 5 of 5 ==
Date: Fri, Oct 29 2010 1:22 am
From: "N_Cook"

Arfa Daily <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:Dnvyo.19007$7p5.3310@newsfe22.ams2...
>
>
> "Steve Kraus" <screen@SPAMBLOCKfilmteknik.com> wrote in message
> news:TsGdnTFrO6H_ylfRnZ2dnUVZ_qGdnZ2d@earthlink.com...
> > Just wanted to be sure of this. If you connect two zeners in series
with
> > the same polarity the effect is the same as having one zener of the sum
of
> > the two voltages, right?
>
> Basically, yes. I do it all the time. Doesn't usually work out *quite*
> right, but close enough as not to normally matter.
>
> Arfa
>

And to adjust for the odd 1/4 or 1/2 a volt more, add a normal diode or 2 in
the chain

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Sherwood RD6106 tuner amp, prob 2000 year
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/6bd29a50c856b3cd?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Fri, Oct 29 2010 1:20 am
From: "N_Cook"

Worked a treat with the Sherwood and all the nylon standoffs I had laying
around.
Starting with an old pair of 2 inch long arm needle nose pliers. Grind off
the tips to give about 3mm wide. Dremmel and cutoff grinding disc cut a V
slot in each face to about 5mm up the arms, then hollow grind progressively
deeper for the next 10mm or so each side, not much just enough so the tops
of the standoffs don't bottom out on the faces.
Now to make a tool for cutting silicone sleeving into spiral wrap, first
attempt failed

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