sci.electronics.repair - 18 new messages in 8 topics - digest

sci.electronics.repair
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Today's topics:

==============================================================================
TOPIC: RCA P60928 PTK195 Chassis no power
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/0e7ca98063672b91?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 7 ==
Date: Sun, Oct 3 2010 8:38 pm
From: "Michael A. Terrell"

"Tmachcinsk@aol.com" wrote:
>
> John suggested pulling the wires from the ir board that go to the
> front panel on/off chnl swithches and see if the remote would turn on
> the tv. That fixed it. One of the switches on the front panel must be
> stuck on. Ted

Then pull out the panel and test the switches. There aren't that
many different types of tactical switches. All you need to do is match
the footprint & height in most cases. There are a lot of places to buy
new ones, or if you're a cheapskate you can probably find on in an old
computer mouse or junk VCR/ DVD player that will fit.

<http://parts.digikey.com/1/parts-kws/tactile-switch>

<http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?R=101-0164-EVvirtualkey12040000virtualkey101-0164-EV>

<http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/28-10735&CAWELAID=220320974>

Each of these companies carry different styles.

--
Politicians should only get paid if the budget is balanced, and there is
enough left over to pay them.

== 2 of 7 ==
Date: Mon, Oct 4 2010 4:56 am
From: John-Del

On Oct 3, 9:37 pm, "Tmachci...@aol.com" <Tmachci...@aol.com> wrote:
> John suggested pulling the wires from the ir board that go to the
> front panel on/off chnl swithches and see if the remote would turn on
> the tv. That fixed it. One of the switches on the front panel must be
> stuck on. Ted

== 3 of 7 ==
Date: Mon, Oct 4 2010 5:00 am
From: John-Del

If the TV now powes up with the FPA disconnected, you can continue to
run it that way with no problem, or you can replace the tacts:

Acme has what you need. Go to their website and search ACME-302. I
guess you can't post URLs, but try Acme(dash)sales(dot)net

This is the correct tact for that series, change all of them (probably
six).

The 195 was made from about 1997 to 2002, so there are different ways
of getting to the front panel assy (assuming you don't already have it
out), but all are done from the front of the TV. The process involves
removing the front speaker grille, and snapping the control panel out
by releasing the plastic fingers that locate it to the front grille.
There are no screws or other fasteners involved. After removing the
old tacts, clean the pc under the tacts with a cleaner before
installing the new ones.

== 4 of 7 ==
Date: Mon, Oct 4 2010 5:40 am
From: PeterD

On Sun, 3 Oct 2010 18:37:02 -0700 (PDT), "Tmachcinsk@aol.com"
<Tmachcinsk@aol.com> wrote:

>John suggested pulling the wires from the ir board that go to the
>front panel on/off chnl swithches and see if the remote would turn on
>the tv. That fixed it. One of the switches on the front panel must be
>stuck on. Ted

Ah, I'd missed the fact you'd done that diagnostic. I wonder if you
can disassemble and clean the switch module?

== 5 of 7 ==
Date: Mon, Oct 4 2010 6:18 am
From: "Tmachcinsk@aol.com"

Thanks again John. Let me know if you ever need a hand with an arcade
game. Ted

== 6 of 7 ==
Date: Mon, Oct 4 2010 8:22 am
From: PlainBill47@yawho.com

On Sun, 3 Oct 2010 10:17:26 -0700 (PDT), "Tmachcinsk@aol.com"
<Tmachcinsk@aol.com> wrote:

>Thanks for nothing plainbill. I never stated it was a combo microwave
>tv. I stated both went so that you would know it was probably a
>problem from an electric surge being that two thing went at the same
>time. I did give the chassis number and the model of the tv I cant
>help it if you cant read. The link you sent me was not in english and
>would not convert to english so that was useless. Whos the doofus now.
>Thanks everyone else for your help. Ted
My point exactly. You claimed it was a PTK 195 chassis, of course, it
actually is a PTK195. In spite of that bit of misinformation, I was
able to identify the source for the Photofact manuals.

As for the site being in Polish, of course it is; it's located in
Poland. However, anyone with s bit of competance (yes, this probably
excludes you) would not that major headings are in both Polish and
English.

I stand by my evaluation of your abilities, Doofus.

PlainBill

== 7 of 7 ==
Date: Mon, Oct 4 2010 4:06 pm
From: John-Del

On Oct 4, 9:18 am, "Tmachci...@aol.com" <Tmachci...@aol.com> wrote:
> Thanks again John. Let me know if you ever need a hand with an arcade
> game. Ted

Actually, one of my very best friends has been in the vending business
for a very long time, and I fix his CRT monitors for him. Of course,
the business isn't what it was, and he's getting into other things. I
will however take you up on your offer if we ever get stuck on
something and can use some extra help.

Enjoy that 195 (for probably another 10 years).

John

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Need base diagram for 140NB4/CT496 Sony CRT
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/a476e0a9943c56d7?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Mon, Oct 4 2010 6:26 am
From: "Wild_Bill"

I don't know if you've already tried, but I would suspect that some vintage
radio/TV sites may have also some CRT pinout info for vacuum tubes.
Generally, in Europe, vacuum tubes are referred to as Valves, but that
probably doesn't include CRTs.

The Sencore (test equipment manufacturer) website had a CRT pinout lookup
tool for use with their CRT testers/rejuvenators. It may still be there.

As maybe a final resort, you could look for a book/chart of CRT pinouts for
old testers on eBay.. you would probably want to find a book that was issued
a couple of years newer than the years that the CRT was used in TVs.

If the CRT gun is clearly visible thru the neck glass, you could possibly
determine the pinout with a close examination.

Good luck with your project.

--
Cheers,
WB
.............

"Brenda Ann" <newsgroups@fullspectrumradio.org> wrote in message
news:bPidncD4etMGWjrRnZ2dnVY3goWdnZ2d@giganews.com...
>I need the above base diagram so that I can convert a Sony 5-307W. The set
>has a 140CB4 CRT in it, which is dead. I have a brand new CT496 CRT, which
>has a different base (at least the heater pins are 1 and 3, rather than 3
>and 4 on the 140CB4).
>
> TIA
>
> Brenda Ann

== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Mon, Oct 4 2010 5:45 pm
From: "Brenda Ann"

"Wild_Bill" <wb_wildbill@XSPAMyahoo.com> wrote in message
news:vCkqo.244889$De6.183055@en-nntp-01.dc1.easynews.com...
> I don't know if you've already tried, but I would suspect that some
> vintage radio/TV sites may have also some CRT pinout info for vacuum
> tubes.
> Generally, in Europe, vacuum tubes are referred to as Valves, but that
> probably doesn't include CRTs.
>
> The Sencore (test equipment manufacturer) website had a CRT pinout lookup
> tool for use with their CRT testers/rejuvenators. It may still be there.
>
> As maybe a final resort, you could look for a book/chart of CRT pinouts
> for old testers on eBay.. you would probably want to find a book that was
> issued a couple of years newer than the years that the CRT was used in
> TVs.
>
> If the CRT gun is clearly visible thru the neck glass, you could possibly
> determine the pinout with a close examination.
>
> Good luck with your project.
>
I may have to go with trying to do the visual reckoning route. I can't find
anywhere with a pinout for this tube, and it seems that Sencore has gone a
totally different route since CRT's are fast on their way to oblivion. They
do not make much of anything not related to digital video processing, and
apparently no longer support even their high-end analog test equipment.

== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Mon, Oct 4 2010 10:40 pm
From: "Wild_Bill"

The CRT is in a vintage (maybe 1963?) portable VHF/UHF TV with radio?

A vintage TV collector-type website may be a possible source, although I
noticed that your inquiry is widespread across a number of forums.

I'm familiar with the frustration of a repair turning into a major research
project.

Sencore and their equipment have changed dramatically in the last 6-7 years,
but so has the entertainment equipment, and service/repair industries.
CRTs will still be around for a while, but not in consumer equipment.

Close visual inspection of the CRT's gun elements may be the quickest
solution.

--
Cheers,
WB
.............

"Brenda Ann" <newsgroups@fullspectrumradio.org> wrote in message
news:dtednfC0f8TY6DfRnZ2dnVY3go2dnZ2d@giganews.com...
>
>
> I may have to go with trying to do the visual reckoning route. I can't
> find anywhere with a pinout for this tube, and it seems that Sencore has
> gone a totally different route since CRT's are fast on their way to
> oblivion. They do not make much of anything not related to digital video
> processing, and apparently no longer support even their high-end analog
> test equipment.
>
>

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Angelina Jolie Hot Sex Wallpapers
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/fa48657a3cabc0e7?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Mon, Oct 4 2010 7:10 am
From: pooja kavala

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==============================================================================
TOPIC: Marshall 6101 valve amp
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/5c8741aa70544d35?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Mon, Oct 4 2010 7:12 am
From: "N_Cook"

In for a problem in heater wiring, corrected and working fine on the bench.
Reassemble in cab and no output now. I'm loathe to have to now take the main
board apart unnecessarily if I'm doing somrthing silly as there are a number
of awkward quirks about this model.
Feed signal in the "Return" and it outputs to the speaker. Normal signal to
the front input and output at "Send". There is 0R across all 4 un-inserted
"return" socket contacts as per schematic. ch select switches and status
LEDs work but pressing the muting switch does not mean the 3 LEDs come on
together now as a reminder indicator (this function not mentioned in the
user handbook). I've removed the digital board and nothing seems amiss with
that (secret lock within the XLR). Relay click at initialisation at power
up.

== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Mon, Oct 4 2010 8:10 am
From: "N_Cook"

Something awry with the series/parallel sw. I noted the 3 LED on, if mute
on, function with another 6101 but it is not the case here, makes perfect
sense in the absence of a mute lamp on the front, anyone any knowledge? This
one wrong or the other one wrong or just variants? or does it require jacks
in place or something as well

== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Mon, Oct 4 2010 5:40 pm
From: dkxl5_at_cox_dot_net@foo.com (dkxl5)

dkxl5 had written this in response to
http://www.electrondepot.com/repair/Re-Marshall-6101-valve-amp-35906-.htm
:

N_Cook wrote:

-------------------------------------
dkxl5

The mute button between the pwr amp send/return jacks does not have any
indicator that I'm aware of.
The channel leds can be finicky sometimes. Sometimes when I turn mine on
all 3 leds come on and a quick
on/off of the power switch snaps it back to the proper channel led. There
are some awkward quirks with
the amp. Make sure the mute switch is not engaged. If the series loop
button is engaged you will not get
any sound from the amp, though the effects knob will vary the loop send
output and you can still send a
signal into the return and hear it in the speaker. When switched to
parallel you will have sound through
the amp from the input.

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==============================================================================
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http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/fc50723a3e28f640?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Mon, Oct 4 2010 8:40 am
From: guru

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==============================================================================
TOPIC: Zenith D52WLCD Problem
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/2576c812dd8a3729?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Mon, Oct 4 2010 10:15 am
From: Sking10

The other issue I'm having with the TV is after 45 minutes of watching
the tv it gets static on the screen. I've unhooked the tv from
everything and still get the same static when in setup mode (video,
audio, etc...). So I've determined it has to do with the video and not
the signal.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Disappearing fuse wire
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/32bd99a942ca778e?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Mon, Oct 4 2010 3:19 pm
From: Cydrome Leader

whit3rd <whit3rd@gmail.com> wrote:
> On Sep 28, 12:39?am, "N_Cook" <dive...@tcp.co.uk> wrote:
>> Where cause is unknown I closely inspect fuses to gauge whether
>> mechanical/aging or thermal failure and then an idea of rupture current.
>> This ELU 20mm 500mA F fuse had no trace of the wire , no smoke stain or
>> hazing at all in the glass tube. I cracked the glass expecting to see
>> remnants of wires or powder or something in the ends but nothing...
>
> If the fuse wire was tin, it may have evaporated and then oxidized.
> Tin oxide is transparent.

Interesting. Has tin been used in fuses? I toured a company that makes
fuses for utility companies and they only use silver wire. I asked why and
the answer was nothing else is as reliable or ages like silver.

I've been fascinated by cheapo fuses that on the box claim to be
"electronically tested", whatever that means for a fuse that was probably
made by school children.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Dental Patients Before And After Images
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/441630dd913d8e7a?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Mon, Oct 4 2010 11:11 pm
From: jennifer <123cosmeticdentist@gmail.com>

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