sci.electronics.repair - 24 new messages in 13 topics - digest

sci.electronics.repair
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair?hl=en

sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Today's topics:

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Who is she?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/c21bb9a3bf458ea4?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Mon, Oct 11 2010 12:30 am
From: nosrah

Lady Aisha (may Allah be pleased with her) is what this humanity
possesses of bright mind, sharp wit, and abundant knowledge.
Additionally, for her effective role in serving the Islamic thought
through relating Prophet Muhammad's (PBUH) Hadiths (narrations);
interpreting a lot of the aspects of the Prophet's (PBUH) life and her
juristic deductions.
She is also a woman who exceeded the boundaries of her role as a woman
to become a teacher for a whole nation that is the Islamic nation.

May Allah be Pleased with her was one of the skilful people in Qur'an,
Hadith and Islamic Jurisprudence, thus Urwah- bin al- Zubair said:'' I
have never seen someone who knows more of the Qur'an and its
commandments, nor al-Hallal (lawfulness), or Haram( sinful deeds), or
poetry, or Arabs oratory or backgrounds than Aisha.''

In this researchable point I have raised three domains in which lady
Aisha (may Allah be Pleased with her) has been distinguished in, and
they are:

1-Her knowledge and teachings.

2-The oratorical interpreter lady.

3-The lady faqiha (Islamic jurist).

I have chosen these domains for their importance and obvious influence
on the Islamic community and thought, Lady Aisha (may Allah be Pleased
with her) with her knowledge and her knowingness contributed in
amending the concepts, and the orientation to follow the Messenger of
Allah's Sunnah (Prophet's tradition), that's why the intellectuals
used to go to her to grasp from her abundant knowledge ,thereby she
became an illuminative source (lamp) that sheds its light on the
people of science and its students .......

http://www.rasoulall...lang=en&doc=249

/source : http://www.rasoulallah.net

== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Mon, Oct 11 2010 10:13 am
From: Sjouke Burry

nosrah wrote:
> Lady Aisha...

Is a spammer, or related to a spammer and as such a religious criminal.

== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Mon, Oct 11 2010 10:21 am
From: PeterD

On Mon, 11 Oct 2010 00:30:14 -0700 (PDT), nosrah <nosrah23@yahoo.com>
wrote:

>Lady Aisha (may Allah be pleased with her)

I saw her at the local whore house, and she did mention that this
Allah character thought she was the best fuck he'd had in days.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Kenwood L-1000T, 1990
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/90eff8f4c2e643e4?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 4 ==
Date: Mon, Oct 11 2010 2:45 am
From: "N_Cook"

Old 0.047F , 5.5V dropped from about 5V to 1V in about 1 sec with DVM load.
Replacement .2F one , connected to 5V ps via 220R took 35 sec to rise from
3V to 4V

== 2 of 4 ==
Date: Mon, Oct 11 2010 11:22 am
From: Baron

Baron Inscribed thus:

> David Inscribed thus:
>>
>>> I would concur with William. I have a 0.22F @ 5v on my desk at
>>> the moment, it holds its charge for many days.
>>>
>>> Best Regards:
>>> Baron.
>>
>> Lets get things correct here. Memory backup capacitors can have
>> very high capacitance values and extremely low leakage. That is
>> not in dispute. The term supercap does not refer to the typical
>> memory capacitor installed on consumer electronics equipment.
>> That is a different type that has high series resistance. If you
>> have a ESR meter, measure one for yourself but discharge it first
>> for a long time.
>>
>> David
>
> Thanks for your note.
> Yes the cap I have is intended for memory retention service. I do
> have an ESR meter but it hadn't occurred to me to actually measure it,
> though I do take your point about discharging it first. I did
> discharge it some time ago and was surprised by how much the voltage
> had recovered the following day.
>

Just and update: I got the marked value wrong, its 2.2F @ 5v. There is
no indication of the manufacturer. I've currently got a 4.5v 60ma
torch bulb connected across it to discharge it. It took a few seconds
for the bulb to stop glowing. Anyway I'm going to leave it overnight
and check its ESR tomorrow. It should be well and truly discharged by
then.

--
Best Regards:
Baron.

== 3 of 4 ==
Date: Mon, Oct 11 2010 7:15 pm
From: Cydrome Leader

William Sommerwerck <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote:
>> Lets get things correct here. Memory backup capacitors can have
>> very high capacitance values and extremely low leakage. That is
>> not in dispute. The term supercap does not refer to the typical
>> memory capacitor installed on consumer electronics equipment.
>> That is a different type that has high series resistance. If you
>> have a ESR meter, measure one for yourself but discharge it first
>> for a long time.
>
> I'm not sure what the "typical" memory capacitor is. With respect to my Lux
> 5T50, the cap was one I selected and installed.

for something like that from 1990, it would most likely be a cap made by
Elna (quite likely dark blue) NEC (possibly green) or Panasonic (all sorts
of colors). Standard Oil was even making them at the time.

Also, they didn't have 'low' ESR supercaps like they do now, so ignore any
crap off wikipedia or comparisons to modern datasheets for products that
look the same.

== 4 of 4 ==
Date: Mon, Oct 11 2010 8:25 pm
From: "William Sommerwerck"

>> I'm not sure what the "typical" memory capacitor is. With respect
>> to my Lux 5T50, the cap was one I selected and installed.

> For something like that from 1990, it would most likely be a cap
> made by Elna (quite likely dark blue) NEC (possibly green) or
> Panasonic (all sorts of colors). Standard Oil was even making
> them at the time.

Try 1980. I don't remember the brand, but I don't think it was any of these.

Regardless of what you do or don't think, IT WORKS. The storage time -- when
the tuner is turned off and left off -- is about 40% of the original tiny
nicad battery the supercap replaced (3 days versus a week). This seems
reasonable, and is consistent with the information given in the Wikipedia
article.

> Also, they didn't have "low" ESR supercaps like they do now,
> so ignore any crap off Wikipedia or comparisons to modern
> datasheets for products that look the same.

I don't think anyone here knows what they're talking about. I'm certainly
aware of my own ignorance.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: TA7228P
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/5ed90c12bf67735f?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Mon, Oct 11 2010 5:22 am
From: Bruce Esquibel

Baron <baron.nospam@linuxmaniac.nospam.net> wrote:

> Does anyone have a data sheet for a "Toshiba" IC Part No:TA7228P.
> There is no sign of it on the Toshiba Electronics web site and google
> just gets thousands of hits for merchants trying to sell parts.
> This is an old IC that I discovered in a box that I was clearing out, so
> its just curiosity on my part.

I think that thing was used in a lot of various CB radios, dual function,
audio out on receive and used as a driver for the RF, if I'm not mistaken.

I mean it's just a power amp but was wired in so it was doing something in
both transmit and receive functions.

-bruce
bje@ripco.com

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Mon, Oct 11 2010 9:08 am
From: "Michael A. Terrell"

Bruce Esquibel wrote:
>
> Baron <baron.nospam@linuxmaniac.nospam.net> wrote:
>
> > Does anyone have a data sheet for a "Toshiba" IC Part No:TA7228P.
> > There is no sign of it on the Toshiba Electronics web site and google
> > just gets thousands of hits for merchants trying to sell parts.
> > This is an old IC that I discovered in a box that I was clearing out, so
> > its just curiosity on my part.
>
> I think that thing was used in a lot of various CB radios, dual function,
> audio out on receive and used as a driver for the RF, if I'm not mistaken.
>
> I mean it's just a power amp but was wired in so it was doing something in
> both transmit and receive functions.

AM CB radios have used a single audio amp since the '60s. The output
trnsformer is used as the modulation transformer. The mic is connected,
and the speaker disconnected when you transmit.

--
Politicians should only get paid if the budget is balanced, and there is
enough left over to pay them.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: HOT ACTRESS
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/441c68564606248f?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Mon, Oct 11 2010 5:27 am
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==============================================================================
TOPIC: sgc528[23] xref
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/6861c55ad109c3a9?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Mon, Oct 11 2010 7:24 am
From: frank

Hi all,

I'm looking for data about the two complementary transistors SGC5282 and
SGC5283. Seems like they are unknown on the net. Also a possible xref would
help.
Thanks in advance.

Frank IZ8DWF

==============================================================================
TOPIC: can i bring new life to this old VCR?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/b80bdaff85d3a3a6?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 4 ==
Date: Mon, Oct 11 2010 9:28 am
From: nucleus

thanks for all the replies. problem appears to be belt related.
trying to get a new belt but encompassparts.com says belt
is "no longer available". anybody have a source for old VCR
parts?

On Oct 9, 7:47 pm, nucleus <rose122...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> this old RCA VR688HF VCR has been a good one over many
> years but i have had to clean the 4 heads and all tape contact
> surfaces a number of times. also had to adjust the tension a
> few years ago (had to loosen it, rather than tighten it, opposite
> of what i expected). had a number of problems lately with the
> only belt slipping off but i have been able to keep it usable by
> applying belt dressing. i was in the process of trying to find a
> reasonably priced replacement belt when it developed the
> present problem. it has now damaged two tapes and am now
> experimenting on the third tape after splicing it. the present
> problem is that it winds multiple loops around the pinch roller,
> when it loads a tape. i've removed the glaze from the pinch roller
> with a pencil eraser and vacuumed the abraded material. nontheless,
> it still wraps multiple loops around the pinch roller, when loading
> a tape.
>
> i am trying to salvage this VCR because it has a highly desirable
> feature of "commercial advance".
>
> should i invest in a new belt and a new pinch roller for such an
> old VCR, or should i give it up???

== 2 of 4 ==
Date: Mon, Oct 11 2010 10:22 am
From: "Wild_Bill"

You haven't mentioned where you are, in the U.S.A. maybe?

A search engine will give results for VCR BELTS

I haven't bought any belts recently, and there have been a lot of changes in
the parts and service/repair industries in the last decade (most of 'em not
good for repair folks).

When VCRs were most popular (and replacement parts were in demand) there
were an abundant number of suppliers of belts and various other VCR parts.

Belt distributors printed cross-reference manuals with VCR models (also
audio tape and various other units) and the specific size/type of belt for
each function.. loading, capstan etc.
Some of the early VCRs had lots of belts inside them, the latest models may
have one, or none.

What I mentioned earlier about needing to measure tires also applies to
belts, since the lookup-by-brand/model listings are most likely obsolete,
and many rubber parts will likely have been discontinued, due to lack of
demand.
You will likely need to know the cross-sectional (thickness) and
circumference of the belt, assuming it is square, also the width if is a
flat type (decimal inches or mm).

One method for approximately measuring the circumference was to place 2
pencils inside the belt, and spread them apart until the belt just formed
around them. Old belts are typically loose, so ordering a belt of the same
type and size with a slightly smaller circumference was a regular practice.

You can download a 2006 cross-reference manual here, although I don't know
if Adams Radio or any other seller still offer these products (some web
pages are left in place as an archival reference display of sorts).
http://www.adamsradio.com/page12.html

You might find more info in the Repair FAQ
http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/

--
Cheers,
WB
.............

"nucleus" <rose122550@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:f0309118-3b9a-4444-8465-c0c288396b8f@e20g2000vbn.googlegroups.com...
thanks for all the replies. problem appears to be belt related.
trying to get a new belt but encompassparts.com says belt
is "no longer available". anybody have a source for old VCR
parts?

== 3 of 4 ==
Date: Mon, Oct 11 2010 11:05 am
From: Meat Plow

On Mon, 11 Oct 2010 09:28:48 -0700, nucleus wrote:

> thanks for all the replies. problem appears to be belt related. trying
> to get a new belt but encompassparts.com says belt is "no longer
> available". anybody have a source for old VCR parts?

You get the belt measurements and research a replacement based on that.

--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

== 4 of 4 ==
Date: Mon, Oct 11 2010 2:26 pm
From: Mike WB2MEP

On Oct 11, 2:05 pm, Meat Plow <mhyw...@yahoo.com> wrote:
> On Mon, 11 Oct 2010 09:28:48 -0700, nucleus wrote:
> > thanks for all the replies. problem appears to be belt related. trying
> > to get a new belt but encompassparts.com says belt is "no longer
> > available". anybody have a source for old VCR parts?
>
> You get the belt measurements and research a replacement based on that.
>
> --
> Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

Try http://www.iglou.com/studiosound/index.htm
It looks like they have the belt & pinch roller you need.
Your VCR is old enough to use their make/model index.

Mike
WB2MEP

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== 1 of 1 ==
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http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/ede860e0e225f8b2?hl=en
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== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Mon, Oct 11 2010 10:11 am
From: Esolutions

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==============================================================================
TOPIC: help needed with nikko 230 distortion :conclusion
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/e502374142af0b1b?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Mon, Oct 11 2010 9:27 am
From: james moffat

On Fri, 01 Oct 2010 18:16:56 -0600, james moffat <kallispamta@shaw.ca>
wrote:

>
>HI all!
>I have a nikko alpha 230 amp that is distorting one channel <just
>enough to annoy my ears>
>and was wondering if anyone has any advise on what to check for / and
>or replace to get rid of the noise.
>If it makes any difference to the diagnosis the music is fine at the
>headphones, and is only distorted on the left channel.
>I have enough knowledge to make me dangerous, and some test
>equipment<no o-scope>
>so if someone is willing to help me learn a little more please blast
>away.
>thanks for your time
>remove the spam to e-mail me.
>james
>If you really want to talk to me - just eat the spam

ok just to update and close this tread:
here is what I did to it.
opened it up
checked all fuses.
ran some professional cleaner all through it<it was very grungy>
tested it on some real speakers... still distorted.
replaced light bulb for display.....IT WORKS!!!!!....Kidding.
using some info I found from an Internet search I found the bias
settings and test sites, so I started testing....
switched on and waited till it was warm<hot>
tested working side and got a reasonable reading from it.
tested the distorted side and got no (ie 0) reading from it.
which indicated to me that there was no voltage going to that side.
went back and retested the fuses with a multimeter and found one to be
bad..... not blown just not working...
popped in a set of new fuses to that grouping and restarted waited
till warm, and retested the bias. very high.....so I adjusted the bias
on both sides back to the recommended mv. <the other side was slightly
off> and threw some music through it.......
everything works super now.
Am thinking of replacing the bias pots as they are a little touchy,
and contemplating\fighting the urge to replace the caps as they are
original and most likely dry.... but as they say if it works don't
f**k with it. Recommendations on replacing?

thanks for the replies I received they sent me in the right direction.
kallita

If you really want to talk to me - just eat the spam

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Mon, Oct 11 2010 6:43 pm
From: "Arfa Daily"

"james moffat" <kallispamta@shaw.ca> wrote in message
news:8qd6b6l2va1ebt12futnoqab2d1c36qqb6@4ax.com...
> On Fri, 01 Oct 2010 18:16:56 -0600, james moffat <kallispamta@shaw.ca>
> wrote:
>
>>
>>HI all!
>>I have a nikko alpha 230 amp that is distorting one channel <just
>>enough to annoy my ears>
>>and was wondering if anyone has any advise on what to check for / and
>>or replace to get rid of the noise.
>>If it makes any difference to the diagnosis the music is fine at the
>>headphones, and is only distorted on the left channel.
>>I have enough knowledge to make me dangerous, and some test
>>equipment<no o-scope>
>>so if someone is willing to help me learn a little more please blast
>>away.
>>thanks for your time
>>remove the spam to e-mail me.
>>james
>>If you really want to talk to me - just eat the spam
>
>
> ok just to update and close this tread:
> here is what I did to it.
> opened it up
> checked all fuses.
> ran some professional cleaner all through it<it was very grungy>
> tested it on some real speakers... still distorted.
> replaced light bulb for display.....IT WORKS!!!!!....Kidding.
> using some info I found from an Internet search I found the bias
> settings and test sites, so I started testing....
> switched on and waited till it was warm<hot>
> tested working side and got a reasonable reading from it.
> tested the distorted side and got no (ie 0) reading from it.
> which indicated to me that there was no voltage going to that side.
> went back and retested the fuses with a multimeter and found one to be
> bad..... not blown just not working...
> popped in a set of new fuses to that grouping and restarted waited
> till warm, and retested the bias. very high.....so I adjusted the bias
> on both sides back to the recommended mv. <the other side was slightly
> off> and threw some music through it.......
> everything works super now.
> Am thinking of replacing the bias pots as they are a little touchy,
> and contemplating\fighting the urge to replace the caps as they are
> original and most likely dry.... but as they say if it works don't
> f**k with it. Recommendations on replacing?
>
> thanks for the replies I received they sent me in the right direction.
> kallita
>

I'm a great believer in that old maxim "If it ain't broke, don't fix it". It
has served me well throughout my long career in electronic service. It is a
fact that electrolytics *do* fail, and the location / function of particular
caps as a contributory factor to their failure, is well known. So by all
means check them if you have an ESR meter, but I am absolutely against just
changing every electro you can find, just because it *might* be faulty. In
my experience, the 'shotgun' approach can easily result in giving yourself a
bunch more grief than you originally had. With the best will in the world,
no matter how careful you are, it is staggeringly easy to put a cap in
backwards or get a solder whisker, and DC coupled amps are notoriously
unforgiving of such errors ...

Arfa

==============================================================================
TOPIC: CC-82 Rear View Camera
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/5ae70b96e2f28568?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Mon, Oct 11 2010 6:28 pm
From: Dave Yates

Can anyone help with a pin-out or connection details for the above CCD Rear
View Camera please? I don't have a manufacturer but it looks like it might be
a generic device. I picked one up free, but without documentation. There are
four pins on the connector, presumably 0 and 12V and two signal pins.

I have searched but found only general descriptions.

Any (polite) suggestions welcome. I'm hoping it's output might suit a SatNav I
have.

Thanks

Dave

==============================================================================
TOPIC: ~~~!@Comprehensive Test Banks and solution manuals###~
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/236c5f1d069f13d7?hl=en
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== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Mon, Oct 11 2010 6:38 pm
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==============================================================================
TOPIC: National VP-7750A Wow and Flutter Meter
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/5ebc41d95cf9ca2c?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Mon, Oct 11 2010 6:58 pm
From: Sergey Kubushyn

Does anybody have a Service Manual/Schematics/User Manual for this? Usual
places come out empty...

---
******************************************************************
* KSI@home KOI8 Net < > The impossible we do immediately. *
* Las Vegas NV, USA < > Miracles require 24-hour notice. *
******************************************************************

==============================================================================
TOPIC: SMPS Clicking...
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/b8d8ef25d8872acc?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Mon, Oct 11 2010 7:14 pm
From: "circuit"

The components being heat-sinked are probably drawing too much power, either
because they are about to quit and go total short condition, or whatever
they are supplying drive power to is causing them to draw too much power. I
have seen X-sus main output components with the large heat sinks short out,
but so far never the Y-sys. A lot of the time the components being heat
sinked are proprietary, and seem to have these heat sinks sonicly welded to
them permanently. The only way to do a repair is to do a board swap with a
known good board. Good luck.

> I think you hit the problem dead on. The Y sus board is getting quite hot
> but the x sus isnt. Any idea what would cause the board to consume more
> wattage and therefore get hot?

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Mon, Oct 11 2010 11:50 pm
From: "Michael Kennedy"

"circuit" <circuit@123456.tv> wrote in message
news:i90ga6$g3t$1@speranza.aioe.org...
>
>> I think you hit the problem dead on. The Y sus board is getting quite hot
>> but the x sus isnt. Any idea what would cause the board to consume more
>> wattage and therefore get hot?
>
> The components being heat-sinked are probably drawing too much power,
> either because they are about to quit and go total short condition, or
> whatever they are supplying drive power to is causing them to draw too
> much power. I have seen X-sus main output components with the large heat
> sinks short out, but so far never the Y-sys. A lot of the time the
> components being heat sinked are proprietary, and seem to have these heat
> sinks sonicly welded to them permanently. The only way to do a repair is
> to do a board swap with a known good board. Good luck.

Hmm.. I will have to have a look at the transistors and see if they are
propritary. They are attached by bolts and this board is designed to be
reparied judging by the detail of the service manual.

This tv was quite expensive when new and seems as if built in a different
era.. Say 25 years ago back when thigs were buit with repair in mind. The SM
actually lists individual components and how to troubleshoot them.

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