sci.electronics.repair - 25 new messages in 10 topics - digest

sci.electronics.repair
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair?hl=en

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Today's topics:

* Type name for a small USB connector? - 4 messages, 3 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/b477c938a7779417?hl=en
* Another reason to hate CFLs ... - 10 messages, 8 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/87ea27a2579f0316?hl=en
* measuring ampermeter meter internal resistance - 2 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/27f050235cfa3de3?hl=en
* Cheap Wholesale Nike Shox R3 Shoes Nike Shox R4 Shoes Nike Shox R5 Shoes (
http://www.24hoursneakers.com/) (PayPal Payment) - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/3d1e116f51f5dd18?hl=en
* Panasonic Plasmas/LCDs of Past 5 years - "Volume Leveler" Function - 2
messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/192fcec79e92313a?hl=en
* Latest Vertex 5 FPGAs Speed comparison - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/cdeeadeedad3a65c?hl=en
* BBC nike suppliers in china paypal cheap slae - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/21b9e7995459402d?hl=en
* OT: Is this question too challenging for a BSEE graduate? - 2 messages, 1
author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/31ba2b6a402a3720?hl=en
* Free Online Data Entry Job - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/b80b7058c18b2de4?hl=en
* (paypal payment) wholesale 2010 New fashio brand name goods - 1 messages, 1
author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/26f4bbdf064773b6?hl=en

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Type name for a small USB connector?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/b477c938a7779417?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 4 ==
Date: Mon, Oct 25 2010 7:34 am
From: "N_Cook"


Meat Plow <mhywatt@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:pan.2010.10.25.12.54.08@lmao.lol.lol...
> On Mon, 25 Oct 2010 11:08:02 +0100, N_Cook wrote:
>
> > Smaller than the smallest USB connector I've seen up to now, on compact
> > cameras etc.
> > The connector must pass through 5.8 x 3mm hole in casing. Not trapezoid
> > in cross-section, but rectangular with 2 chamfered corners on a long
> > side
>
> Appears by description a mini 6 pin USB cable. My Casio EX-Z1050 uses
> one.
>
>
>
> --
> Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse


As recessed in its difficult to see as so small , perhaps 8 ruts with 5 or 6
conductors. But smaller than the USB mini AB type. Under 30x as end on can
read 2.2 for the electrical type of USB but still not found a generic name


== 2 of 4 ==
Date: Mon, Oct 25 2010 10:00 am
From: Meat Plow


On Mon, 25 Oct 2010 15:34:47 +0100, N_Cook wrote:

> Meat Plow <mhywatt@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:pan.2010.10.25.12.54.08@lmao.lol.lol...
>> On Mon, 25 Oct 2010 11:08:02 +0100, N_Cook wrote:
>>
>> > Smaller than the smallest USB connector I've seen up to now, on
>> > compact cameras etc.
>> > The connector must pass through 5.8 x 3mm hole in casing. Not
>> > trapezoid in cross-section, but rectangular with 2 chamfered corners
>> > on a long side
>>
>> Appears by description a mini 6 pin USB cable. My Casio EX-Z1050 uses
>> one.
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse
>
>
> As recessed in its difficult to see as so small , perhaps 8 ruts with 5
> or 6 conductors. But smaller than the USB mini AB type. Under 30x as end
> on can read 2.2 for the electrical type of USB but still not found a
> generic name

This Casio plug is actually 12 conductor and is wider than a 4 pin mini.
I have another camera that uses a much smaller connector maybe 30%
smaller than a 4 pin mini. It's almost square with two rounded edges
to prevent improper insertion. They seem pretty popular. as i have a
couple of them in the cable bin.


--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse


== 3 of 4 ==
Date: Mon, Oct 25 2010 2:47 pm
From: whit3rd


On Oct 25, 3:08 am, "N_Cook" <dive...@tcp.co.uk> wrote:
> Smaller than the smallest USB connector I've seen up to now, on compact
> cameras etc.
> The connector must pass through 5.8 x 3mm hole in casing. Not trapezoid in
> cross-section, but rectangular with 2 chamfered corners on a long side

My Konica/Minolta DiMage E 500 camera uses such a connector. The tip
measures 0.082" by 0.193", about 2.1mm by 4.9 mm.
It has five gold fingers (probably two are power-ground) with
asymmetric placement (1 x x x 1 1 1 1 ).

As for a name, or vendor, I dunno.


== 4 of 4 ==
Date: Mon, Oct 25 2010 3:04 pm
From: whit3rd


On Oct 25, 2:47 pm, whit3rd <whit...@gmail.com> wrote:

> As for a name, or vendor, I dunno.

Pimfg.com seems to have them, as 'micro USB' type cables, see

<http://www.pimfg.com/ifaq/USBfaq.htm>

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Another reason to hate CFLs ...
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/87ea27a2579f0316?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 10 ==
Date: Mon, Oct 25 2010 7:39 am
From: "Geoffrey S. Mendelson"


N_Cook wrote:
> GE dumping CFLs in the UK.? Supermarket and separately a hardware barn with
> GE 11W and 15W CFL at 10 pence (<>15 cents ) each.

I thought there was some government subsidy for them, and a tax credit to the
power companies if they give them out (with possibly a requirment to).

Geoff.

--
Geoffrey S. Mendelson N3OWJ/4X1GM
To help restaurants, as part of the "stimulus package", everyone must order
dessert. As part of the socialized health plan, you are forbidden to eat it. :-)


== 2 of 10 ==
Date: Mon, Oct 25 2010 7:45 am
From: "N_Cook"


Geoffrey S. Mendelson <gsm@mendelson.com> wrote in message
news:slrnicb5ic.iiq.gsm@cable.mendelson.com...
> N_Cook wrote:
> > GE dumping CFLs in the UK.? Supermarket and separately a hardware barn
with
> > GE 11W and 15W CFL at 10 pence (<>15 cents ) each.
>
> I thought there was some government subsidy for them, and a tax credit to
the
> power companies if they give them out (with possibly a requirment to).
>
> Geoff.
>
> --
> Geoffrey S. Mendelson N3OWJ/4X1GM
> To help restaurants, as part of the "stimulus package", everyone must
order
> dessert. As part of the socialized health plan, you are forbidden to eat
it. :-)


When can I claim my nominal cost utility-friendly fridge ? from the same
economics
Monitors mains f and drops out/fails to come on when f below a threshold
http://www.dynamicdemand.co.uk/grid.htm


== 3 of 10 ==
Date: Mon, Oct 25 2010 9:10 am
From: "William Sommerwerck"


>>> Bad, bad idea. That halogen bulb is not going to last very long.

>> As to the hybrid lamp, probably a good idea if it was designed as a
>> "transition" to give light while a slower (more efficient?) CFL comes up
>> to full brilliance.

>> Otherwise it may just be another product for a need we never knew we
>> had.

> Yes it's a transition thing. Halogen immediately and then supposedly a
> smooth transition to CFL. I would assume if designed correctly and decent
> quality parts used that it should suffer no quicker death than a
> traditional CFL.

Agreed. But that wasn't what I said. (See above.)

Halogen lamps don't "like" being turned on and off a lot. They need to come
up to full temperature for an extended time so the "recycling" effect can
kick in. Bulbs operated at a temperature slightly /below/ this point will
fail quickly. (I saw this at a friend's house.)

== 4 of 10 ==
Date: Mon, Oct 25 2010 9:13 am
From: "William Sommerwerck"


> I find the CFL's a poor choice in an area where I'm going
> to read or work...

The "right" fixture (a subjective thing) can help immensely.


== 5 of 10 ==
Date: Mon, Oct 25 2010 9:25 am
From: Jeff Liebermann


On Mon, 25 Oct 2010 06:24:04 +0000 (UTC), "Geoffrey S. Mendelson"
<gsm@mendelson.com> wrote:

>Jeff Liebermann wrote:
>> Drivel: I was defrosting the fridge with a screwdriver and hammer,
>> when I managed to puncture the cooling coils, releasing the gas. I
>> hate days like this.
>
>My first wife did that circa 1974. You can patch the coils and refill them,
>HOWEVER what I did not learn until a few years ago is that you have to
>to empty the coils with a vacuum pump before you add new refrigerant.

This is a small 4 cubic foot Kenmore fridge. About $120 to replace.
There are no refill valves and no easy way to refill. The "coils" are
a flat plate that fits under the freezer section. It will soon make a
tolerable paint storage cabinet somewhere in the yard.

I've been doing the screwdriver and hammer defrosting trick for about
35 years without problems. I'm not sure why I failed this time, but
it probably had something to do with spending too much time on the
computer and on Usenet.

>Adding new refigerant to a system with air in it does not work very well.

True. My understanding is that the reason for the vacuum pump cycle
is to prevent any refrigerant from escaping into the atmosphere. In
the days before we discovered ecology, a purge cycle, where the
refrigerant pressure was used to purge the system, was deemed
adequate.

>You also may want to not mention this to anyone, don't you need a permit
>to release refrigerant into the air in California?

I have no idea, but with I'm sure that there's a law or rule
designating everything I'm doing as illegal. For example, I'm
required to remove the door from a disused refrigerator to prevent the
neighborhood kids from climbing inside and locking the door. Never
mind that fridges with locking doors went out of style in the 1960's.

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558


== 6 of 10 ==
Date: Mon, Oct 25 2010 9:30 am
From: Jeff Liebermann


On Mon, 25 Oct 2010 13:02:57 +0000 (UTC), Meat Plow
<mhywatt@yahoo.com> wrote:

>On Sun, 24 Oct 2010 21:14:32 -0700, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
>
>> Drivel: I was defrosting the fridge with a screwdriver and hammer, when
>> I managed to puncture the cooling coils, releasing the gas. I hate days
>> like this.

>I've seen two office refrigerators end up in the trash because
>secretaries thought they could use letter openers and a hammer to
>carefully break the ice up. Why doesn't your unit have a timed defrost on
>it like most home units do?

Nope. It's a small bar type 4 cu ft fridge. It doesn't even have a
light inside. My previous giant monster fridge had one of those
self-defrosting features. I disabled it when I discovered that a
substantial part of my monthly electric bill was dedicated to
defrosting. The water bed followed soon after.

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558


== 7 of 10 ==
Date: Mon, Oct 25 2010 10:11 am
From: Meat Plow


On Mon, 25 Oct 2010 09:30:16 -0700, Jeff Liebermann wrote:

> On Mon, 25 Oct 2010 13:02:57 +0000 (UTC), Meat Plow <mhywatt@yahoo.com>
> wrote:
>
>>On Sun, 24 Oct 2010 21:14:32 -0700, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
>>
>>> Drivel: I was defrosting the fridge with a screwdriver and hammer,
>>> when I managed to puncture the cooling coils, releasing the gas. I
>>> hate days like this.
>
>>I've seen two office refrigerators end up in the trash because
>>secretaries thought they could use letter openers and a hammer to
>>carefully break the ice up. Why doesn't your unit have a timed defrost
>>on it like most home units do?
>
> Nope. It's a small bar type 4 cu ft fridge. It doesn't even have a
> light inside. My previous giant monster fridge had one of those
> self-defrosting features. I disabled it when I discovered that a
> substantial part of my monthly electric bill was dedicated to
> defrosting. The water bed followed soon after.

Pain in the ass to defrost a side by side where the evaporator is hidden
behind plastic in the freezer. I know I've fixed a neighbor's 3 times
over the past ten years. It's got three heating elements in glass tubes
that corrode and break. Each time the evap was solid ice and probably
took as much power to thaw as it would if it was operating normally.

--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse


== 8 of 10 ==
Date: Mon, Oct 25 2010 10:47 am
From: news@jecarter.us


On Mon, 25 Oct 2010 09:10:00 -0700, "William Sommerwerck"
<grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote:

>>>> Bad, bad idea. That halogen bulb is not going to last very long.
>

>Halogen lamps don't "like" being turned on and off a lot. They need to come
>up to full temperature for an extended time so the "recycling" effect can
>kick in. Bulbs operated at a temperature slightly /below/ this point will
>fail quickly. (I saw this at a friend's house.)
>
>

I created my own "transition" solution some time ago. Use a 2 bulb
fixture with an LED bulb and a CFL. The first one I installed was in
an entry way where full brightess isn't as important as instant
response. The LED lights imediately and the CFL follows in a fraction
of a second. Even a small LED bulb provides enough light that the
person entering doesn't repeatedly toggle the switch because the light
didn't come on instantly (the CFL isn't an instant on; instant on
CFL's have shorter lives than the slow start versions - read the
warranty labels).

A 3 watt LED is probably visually equivalent to a 25 watt incandescent
bulb, so use a 3 watt LED with a 40 watt equivalent CFL to get close
to 60 watt equivalent brightness. None of this is measured with
instruments, just with people's reactions - which is often the
deciding factor in home lighting - and why the lights for the bathroom
mirror are a mix of incandescent and CFL: what my wife is happy with
for color balance. When I find an LED with a color balance she likes,
the incandescents will go away.

John


== 9 of 10 ==
Date: Mon, Oct 25 2010 1:06 pm
From: nesesu


On Oct 25, 4:43 am, "Brenda Ann" <newsgro...@fullspectrumradio.org>
wrote:
> "William Sommerwerck" <grizzledgee...@comcast.net> wrote in message
>
> news:ia3bqd$ktb$1@news.eternal-september.org...
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> > Peter Wensberg, a vice-president at Polaroid, reported that Dr Land ran
> > the
> > entire book of color-perception charts past him, and said he was the first
> > person he'd met who failed every one. Whether this meant Mr Wensberg could
> > not see color at all, I don't know. But he couldn't /distinguish/ them
> > very
> > well.
>
> > A co-worker once asked me to help with selecting colors for a page he was
> > designing. It turned out he had red-green problems. I showed him a
> > fluorescent-green pen. "What color does that look like to you?" "Orange".
> > I
> > don't know what "orange" looked like to him, but he couldn't distinguish
> > that green from orange.
>
> I have an hypothesis that I wish there were a way to explore.  Whereas a
> given color of light (or what we call a color) is a definate wavelength, and
> therefore a constant.... BUT.. is human perception of colors universal? ie
> we know when we are seeing "red" (~650nm) because that's what we LEARNED to
> call the color we see as red. Does this necessarily mean that we are all
> perceiving the same hue, or do we each see something a bit different, but we
> all call it the same thing?
>
> As a totally out of the park example: let's say you and your friend are
> looking at a stopsign. You both know that the sign is "red". But perhaps
> what you see is more of an orange, whilst your friend sees something more
> like yellow. As a subjective appearance, the difference in color perception
> would be "normal" to the viewer, whereas were the two of you to "swap"
> perceptions, the world around you would look quite strange.
>
> It may sound like a very offbeat idea, but when you think about it, most
> sensors have a skew in one direction or another: no two cameras register
> color exactly the same.
>
> Just another strange thought to ponder.. :)- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

Funny you should mention that Brenda Ann, I have wondered the exact
same thing for many years.

Neil S.


== 10 of 10 ==
Date: Mon, Oct 25 2010 1:15 pm
From: Jeffrey Angus


On 10/25/2010 11:25 AM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
> True. My understanding is that the reason for the vacuum pump cycle
> is to prevent any refrigerant from escaping into the atmosphere.

Actually, it's to remove any non-refrigerant from the system prior to
filling it. Especially any moisture.

Jeff
The other other one

==============================================================================
TOPIC: measuring ampermeter meter internal resistance
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/27f050235cfa3de3?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Mon, Oct 25 2010 8:03 am
From: Fred Abse


On Sun, 24 Oct 2010 14:19:23 -0400, Jamie wrote:

> Actually, I can get sued for what I just said! Because its definition
> of character for CA :)

Freudian slip?

--
"For a successful technology, reality must take precedence
over public relations, for nature cannot be fooled."
(Richard Feynman)


== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Mon, Oct 25 2010 8:04 am
From: Fred Abse


On Sun, 24 Oct 2010 14:40:48 -0700, David Nebenzahl wrote:

> So I'm just a little curious. At the risk of opening a can of worms, I ask:
>
> 1. How did you get this geographic location from that posting?

Did you actually look up the location? (Hint, it needs to be zoomed in)
It was a comment on the poster, not his location.


> 2. Who, exactly, is "Proteus"?

I haven't the faintest idea. Nor do I care

>
> Like I said, just curious, not dying to know ...

Now put the lid back on the can :-)

--
"For a successful technology, reality must take precedence
over public relations, for nature cannot be fooled."
(Richard Feynman)

==============================================================================
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http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/3d1e116f51f5dd18?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
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TOPIC: Panasonic Plasmas/LCDs of Past 5 years - "Volume Leveler" Function
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/192fcec79e92313a?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Mon, Oct 25 2010 9:53 am
From: "Arfa Daily"


"ChrisCoaster" <ckozicki@snet.net> wrote in message
news:a293e97a-1746-4951-9a54-4c46d7469f17@p26g2000yqb.googlegroups.com...
> Where to set the damn thing?!?! (Sorry if I posted this in wrong
> N.G.)
>
> I've scrounged everywhere including Panasonic's own website for
> instructions on where to set the Volume Leveler in the audio section
> of most current(2006 & up) flat-panel consumer Panasonic TVs.
>
> At their website, you can download any PDF manual for any Panasonic TV
> as long as it's from the year 2003 or earlier(!)
>
> At the websites offering free downloads of manuals up to last
> year(basically current), you see the actual Panasonic manual but it
> describes only what the function does - not where to set it! I know
> what a volume leveler is - basically a limiter, but the setting on
> Panasonic TVs has at least 5-7 positions.
>
> I would appreciate anyone's help on this, particularly if you own a
> recent model Panny LCD/Plasma and know where to set it to best effect.
>
> Just not being able to find this out from the company itself is enough
> of a turnoff and I will not be buying a Pansonic brand TV for any room
> in my home anytime soon. To me, support is as important as the
> quality of the product, and since Panny failed in that regard, they
> have lost my business in the TV segment.
>
> -CC

On my Panasonic TX50U10 plas just under a year old, the function you appear
to be looking for is called "Volume Correction", and is accessed from "MAIN
MENU" > "SOUND" > "SOUND MENU" and then 7th item down ( Mode, Bass,
Treble, Balance, Headphone Volume, Surround, VOLUME CORRECTION, Speaker
Distance to Wall, Preferred Multi Audio ).

Under the function's description in the (extremely good as it happens) user
manual, it says " Adjusts the volume of individual channel or input mode"

Would that be the one ?

Arfa

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Mon, Oct 25 2010 1:39 pm
From: ChrisCoaster


On Oct 25, 12:53 pm, "Arfa Daily" <arfa.da...@ntlworld.com> wrote:
> "ChrisCoaster" <ckozi...@snet.net> wrote in message
>
> news:a293e97a-1746-4951-9a54-4c46d7469f17@p26g2000yqb.googlegroups.com...
>
>
>
>
>
> > Where to set the damn thing?!?!  (Sorry if I posted this in wrong
> > N.G.)
>
> > I've scrounged everywhere including Panasonic's own website for
> > instructions on where to set the Volume Leveler in the audio section
> > of most current(2006 & up) flat-panel consumer Panasonic TVs.
>
> > At their website, you can download any PDF manual for any Panasonic TV
> > as long as it's from the year 2003 or earlier(!)
>
> > At the websites offering free downloads of manuals up to last
> > year(basically current), you see the actual Panasonic manual but it
> > describes only what the function does - not where to set it!  I know
> > what a volume leveler is - basically a limiter, but the setting on
> > Panasonic TVs has at least 5-7 positions.
>
> > I would appreciate anyone's help on this, particularly if you own a
> > recent model Panny LCD/Plasma and know where to set it to best effect.
>
> > Just not being able to find this out from the company itself is enough
> > of a turnoff and I will not be buying a Pansonic brand TV for any room
> > in my home anytime soon.  To me, support is as important as the
> > quality of the product, and since Panny failed in that regard, they
> > have lost my business in the TV segment.
>
> > -CC
>
> On my Panasonic TX50U10 plas just under a year old, the function you appear
> to be looking for is called "Volume Correction", and is accessed from "MAIN
> MENU"  >  "SOUND"  >  "SOUND MENU" and then 7th item down ( Mode, Bass,
> Treble, Balance, Headphone Volume, Surround, VOLUME CORRECTION, Speaker
> Distance to Wall, Preferred Multi Audio ).
>
> Under the function's description in the (extremely good as it happens) user
> manual, it says " Adjusts the volume of individual channel or input mode"
>
> Would that be the one ?
>
> Arfa- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -
__________________________

CLOSE - and you're the only one who figured out what I'm talking
about. It is called "Volume Leveler" on my friends' set(a 2008
model). In all the instruction manuals I looked at online they just
describe WHAT IT DOES but NOT what different levels of adjusting it
does. If I recall on my friends' Panasonic it's a sliding scale
adjustment from left +3 to right -10, with Zero the factory default.
It is a user menu adjustment, just as you stated, in the audio section
of the user menus.


I'm ASSUMING that moving it to the right "levels" the loudest sounds
down to the average(or softer volumes) so there is less difference,
acc to the manual, "between input sources".

-CC

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Latest Vertex 5 FPGAs Speed comparison
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/cdeeadeedad3a65c?hl=en
==============================================================================

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TOPIC: BBC nike suppliers in china paypal cheap slae
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/21b9e7995459402d?hl=en
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==============================================================================
TOPIC: OT: Is this question too challenging for a BSEE graduate?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/31ba2b6a402a3720?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Mon, Oct 25 2010 6:02 pm
From: "krw@att.bizzzzzzzzzzzz"


On Mon, 25 Oct 2010 00:43:24 -0700, "William Sommerwerck"
<grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote:

>>> It is pretty easy if you know about how the op-amp
>>> will do whatever it can to make the voltage at pin 2
>>> the same as pin 1.
>
>> But is this really true? This sounds like it might be either
>> a gross oversimplification or a possible falsehood.
>
>No, it's fact. It is, as I said, /the/ fundamental principle of op-amp
>circuit design.

One of three principles:

1: Gain is infinite Vout/((V+) - (V-)) = infinity
2: Input impedance is infinite
3: Output impedance is zero

Of course none of these is really true, but close enough for most purposes.

>I can't think of a book that discusses this in a fairly simple way. Even the
>Philbrick book -- which is hard to find these days -- doesn't address the
>matter as directly as I'd like. But, trust me. Most op-amp circuits can be
>analyzed by assuming the voltage is the same, then applying simple circuit
>analysis. You might start with the basic op-amp inverting amplifier, and see
>what happens.


== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Mon, Oct 25 2010 6:05 pm
From: "krw@att.bizzzzzzzzzzzz"


On Sun, 24 Oct 2010 18:48:08 -0700, David Nebenzahl <nobody@but.us.chickens>
wrote:

>On 10/24/2010 3:19 PM brent spake thus:
>
>[snip quiz]
>
>> It is pretty easy if you know about how the op-amp will do whatever it
>> can to make the voltage at pin 2 the same as pin 1.
>
>But is this really true? This sounds like it might be either a gross
>oversimplification or a possible falsehood.
>
>DISCLAIMER: I'm just learning about this stuff. OK, I've been fooling
>around with electronics for, lessee, about 40 years now, but have had no
>formal training; I'm trying to rectify that by reading and studying.
>
>So today I read up about op amps. Learned how a comparator works,
>generally speaking. How they differ from op amps (open loop).
>
>My understanding of a comparator is that the output will be forced to
>one extreme or the other depending on the difference in voltage between
>noninverting and inverting inputs. Any significant voltage difference
>will drive the output to near the respective supply rail, positive or
>negative.
>
>But I don't see how an op amp can, to quote brent, "do whatever it can
>to make the voltage[s the same]". After all, these are *inputs*, no? So
>at least in the case of a comparator, let's say that there exists a
>1-volt difference between noninverting and inverting inputs (which I
>understand is a *huge* difference given the extremely high gain of the
>amp). Let's say the difference is positive: this will drive the output
>close to the + rail, correct? But the noninverting input will still be 1
>volt positive w/respect to the inverting input, right? In other words,
>the change in output doesn't affect the inputs.
>
>Now, this may be different in other configurations (operational or
>instrumentation amp), where there are connections between output and
>input instead of open loop. So is it true that in these cases the inputs
>will be forced to (near) equal? If so, how does that work?
>
>This still sounds rather mysterious to me.

The difference between an opamp and comparitor is that the comparitor is
designed to be operated with its output burried in the rails (some don't have
a current sourcing capability, either). Comparitors can be made out of most
opamps but they're generally pretty slow because they don't like their outputs
saturated.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Free Online Data Entry Job
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/b80b7058c18b2de4?hl=en
==============================================================================

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TOPIC: (paypal payment) wholesale 2010 New fashio brand name goods
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