sci.electronics.repair - 26 new messages in 15 topics - digest

sci.electronics.repair
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair?hl=en

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Today's topics:

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TOPIC: Mallika Sherawat Hot Sex Videos
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/559b9777a7e18db9?hl=en
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== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sat, Oct 9 2010 10:59 pm
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TOPIC: can i bring new life to this old VCR?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/b80bdaff85d3a3a6?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 3 ==
Date: Sun, Oct 10 2010 2:01 am
From: "N_Cook"

nucleus <rose122550@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:49a7ab2d-8b25-4249-858c-ad46c55e7bf2@u13g2000vbo.googlegroups.com...
>
> this old RCA VR688HF VCR has been a good one over many
> years but i have had to clean the 4 heads and all tape contact
> surfaces a number of times. also had to adjust the tension a
> few years ago (had to loosen it, rather than tighten it, opposite
> of what i expected). had a number of problems lately with the
> only belt slipping off but i have been able to keep it usable by
> applying belt dressing. i was in the process of trying to find a
> reasonably priced replacement belt when it developed the
> present problem. it has now damaged two tapes and am now
> experimenting on the third tape after splicing it. the present
> problem is that it winds multiple loops around the pinch roller,
> when it loads a tape. i've removed the glaze from the pinch roller
> with a pencil eraser and vacuumed the abraded material. nontheless,
> it still wraps multiple loops around the pinch roller, when loading
> a tape.
>
> i am trying to salvage this VCR because it has a highly desirable
> feature of "commercial advance".
>
> should i invest in a new belt and a new pinch roller for such an
> old VCR, or should i give it up???

This is one cause of such a tape wrap

cog on the jockey/idler assembly rubbing against
chassis,consequently removing drive from the take-up spool

== 2 of 3 ==
Date: Sun, Oct 10 2010 5:59 am
From: "Wild_Bill"

Depending on the actual calendar age of the VCR (not how much it's been
used), there may be a rubber(y) tire on a plastic hub, in the center of the
mechanism below the cassette, which drives the reels.

The worn and aged belt may be the root of the problem.

I suspect that an aging tire may be the problem, and the reason the tension
needed to be reduced.
Replacing the tire and belt (and pinch roller) may be complicated. Finding
the correct replacement parts may be time consuming. The widely used term is
idler tire, although you may need the actual physical size of the parts, to
order new ones, which would likely require removal of the existing tire.

If the VCR is a later version, it may not have an idler tire.

A test jig is typically used to check the available torque that the reels
can deliver.
A modified empty cassette case can provide the same function, with a piece
of heatshrink slipped over the center IR emitter.

--
Cheers,
WB
.............

"nucleus" <rose122550@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:49a7ab2d-8b25-4249-858c-ad46c55e7bf2@u13g2000vbo.googlegroups.com...
>
> this old RCA VR688HF VCR has been a good one over many
> years but i have had to clean the 4 heads and all tape contact
> surfaces a number of times. also had to adjust the tension a
> few years ago (had to loosen it, rather than tighten it, opposite
> of what i expected). had a number of problems lately with the
> only belt slipping off but i have been able to keep it usable by
> applying belt dressing. i was in the process of trying to find a
> reasonably priced replacement belt when it developed the
> present problem. it has now damaged two tapes and am now
> experimenting on the third tape after splicing it. the present
> problem is that it winds multiple loops around the pinch roller,
> when it loads a tape. i've removed the glaze from the pinch roller
> with a pencil eraser and vacuumed the abraded material. nontheless,
> it still wraps multiple loops around the pinch roller, when loading
> a tape.
>
> i am trying to salvage this VCR because it has a highly desirable
> feature of "commercial advance".
>
> should i invest in a new belt and a new pinch roller for such an
> old VCR, or should i give it up???

== 3 of 3 ==
Date: Sun, Oct 10 2010 7:00 am
From: Meat Plow

On Sat, 09 Oct 2010 17:47:39 -0700, nucleus wrote:

> this old RCA VR688HF VCR has been a good one over many years but i have
> had to clean the 4 heads and all tape contact surfaces a number of
> times. also had to adjust the tension a few years ago (had to loosen
> it, rather than tighten it, opposite of what i expected). had a number
> of problems lately with the only belt slipping off but i have been able
> to keep it usable by applying belt dressing. i was in the process of
> trying to find a reasonably priced replacement belt when it developed
> the present problem. it has now damaged two tapes and am now
> experimenting on the third tape after splicing it. the present problem
> is that it winds multiple loops around the pinch roller, when it loads a
> tape. i've removed the glaze from the pinch roller with a pencil eraser
> and vacuumed the abraded material. nontheless, it still wraps multiple
> loops around the pinch roller, when loading a tape.
>
> i am trying to salvage this VCR because it has a highly desirable
> feature of "commercial advance".
>
> should i invest in a new belt and a new pinch roller for such an old
> VCR, or should i give it up???

Replace take up reel drive.

--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

==============================================================================
TOPIC: InovaBrasil
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/5a280258bfb07936?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Sun, Oct 10 2010 3:11 am
From: Rogerio

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== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Sun, Oct 10 2010 10:54 am
From: JeffM

In news:5cb09866-
c979-4728-879e-6f75b621e888@t11g2000vbc.googlegroups.com
Rogerio wrote:
>inovabrasil.blogspot.com

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TOPIC: Canon SD1000 Display and Image Issues
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/64a5d1176f010e7a?hl=en
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== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sun, Oct 10 2010 5:40 am
From: "Wild_Bill"

You can use eBay as a reference to that model's value (working condition or
broken ones) and failure rate. With just a quick look at Canon 1000*
results, there are used models from $74 and $119, $140 etc.

There are several listed as broken, as-is.. and there are parts from
disassembled units (presumably broken/faulty models).

Most cameras and gadgets are throw-away items these days (has been this way
for quite some time), and I'm surprised that big corporations even bother
with exchanges of single items, as most consumer items have no real value.
I suppose that companies figure that offering an end user something as far
as exchange/upgrade is good PR, even if it costs them.

--
Cheers,
WB
.............

"infiniteMPG" <57classic@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:968b14e4-f3f3-4115-9281-1cb94807d286@n26g2000yqh.googlegroups.com...
> Received a Canon SD1000 from a relative who had not used it for a long
> time but said it wouldn't work right, they thought I might get some
> use out of it. The body of the camera is in mint condition, I was
> amazed as it looks like it's never been used. The camera functions
> fine as far as power on and off, lens extend and retract, and shutter
> button snapping pictures, but the rear display is solid gray with some
> barely visible horizontal lines. No menu items or text, just blank
> display.
>
> When I take pictures (guessing as I have a blank screen) and download
> the files from the SD card to my PC, the are valid JPEG files but are
> just colorful vertical lines with a few horizontal lines like this
> example :
>
> http://www.57web.com/IMG_0002.JPG
>
> Would like to recover this camera as it's a nice unit and looks new.
> Been in touch with Canon and they are offering a Customer Appreciation
> program to trade it in and buy a factory refurbished unit, but I kind
> of like this one if I can salvage it.
>
> Not sure if it could be something like a loose connection in the
> camera or maybe something like that.
>
> Thanks in advance for your assistance

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TOPIC: SMPS Clicking...
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/b8d8ef25d8872acc?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Sun, Oct 10 2010 7:08 am
From: "Michael Kennedy"

"Jim Yanik" <jyanik@abuse.gov> wrote in message
news:Xns9E0BBC8EA283Ajyaniklocalnetcom@216.168.3.44...
> PlainBill47@yawho.com wrote in
> news:eetua616008tuaflq9lfni2a7gmo9dqaj8@4ax.com:
>
>> On Fri, 08 Oct 2010 07:54:51 -0500, Jim Yanik <jyanik@abuse.gov>
>> wrote:
>>
>>>PlainBill47@yawho.com wrote in
>>>news:5f0sa6dr1m0falp5kdhcmvc2mdhj30iqtr@4ax.com:
>>>
>>>> On Thu, 7 Oct 2010 23:49:25 +0900, "Michael Kennedy"
>>>> <mike@nospam.com> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>"Mark Zacharias" <mark_zacharias@sbcglobal.net> wrote in message
>>>>>news:4cadb755$0$1752$c3e8da3$9f400e27@news.astraweb.com...
>>>>>> "Michael Kennedy" <mike@com> wrote in message
>>>>>> news:_PidnbvlitJd_TDRnZ2dnVY3gomdnZ2d@giganews.com...
>>>>>>> Sorry if this is a bit of a novice question...
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I have a SMPS in Plsama tv which upon powering up starts
>>>>>>> clicking... It seems to do it as it warms up or the load changes
>>>>>>> on the psu (screen going dark or getting light)
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> As far as I can tell it isnt any relay doing this, even though It
>>>>>>> sounds like a relay.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Ticking alone I could live with, although a bit annoying but the
>>>>>>> PSU also occasionally shuts down when cold. I am not 100% sure
>>>>>>> what is clicking.. The clicking noise seems to be coming from
>>>>>>> different locations at dfferent times, even possibly the X or Y
>>>>>>> sus boards.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I have sprayed the whole thing down with freeze spray to no
>>>>>>> avail... It is built with PBF solder, so I guess bad solder
>>>>>>> joints are likely issue also.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I have changed the obvious capacitors near heat sources excpet
>>>>>>> the two large 400v 250uf filter caps.. Removed and checked the
>>>>>>> filter caps and they checked good on my ESR meter.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Any Idea what would be clikcing? Here is the board layout
>>>>>>> <https://sites.google.com/site/chibamikey/PSU.JPG>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I have seen similar issues on Samsung plasmas resulting from bad
>>>>>> solder connections at some switching transistors near the middle
>>>>>> of the board. The eyelets are too small and need to be scraped a
>>>>>> bit to enlarge them before resoldering. The board does look
>>>>>> similar to yours. Maybe you'll get lucky.
>>>>>> If not solder connections in there somewhere, failing capacitors
>>>>>> would be the likely culprit, although this problem has been much
>>>>>> more common on LCD sets. Plasmas I've seen don't seem to use the
>>>>>> really cheap caps.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Mark Z.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>Thanks you suggested that before.. I will get a closer look at the
>>>>>transistors and check out those eyelits.. I havent doent that yet,
>>>>>and probably would have forgot had you not replied.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>About the ticking.. It doesn't stop even with the power removed. It
>>>>>is almost if something is expanding and contracting, but makes the
>>>>>sound equilivant of a relay?!
>>>>>
>>>>>The really strange part is it doesn't seem to come from one
>>>>>consistant place.. :(
>>>>>
>>>> Power removed or TV turned off? If it continues long after the set
>>>> is turned off (but still connected to AC power) it is something in
>>>> the standby power section of the main power supply.
>>>>
>>>> If it continues for hours after the set is unplugged, it's probably
>>>> a cricket.
>>>>
>>>> PlainBill
>>>>
>>>
>>>the ticking could be the PS current limiting and restarting:I've heard
>>>that in lots of TEKTRONIX switchers. It should only last as long as
>>>the charge in the mains filter caps.
>> Agreed. The mains filter cap can easily hold a charge for 5 minutes
>> if there is no load. I have observed an SMPS clicking as it trys to
>> start, but fails due to a bad Vcc cap (10-47 オF). I am unable to
>> comprehend a circumstance that would allow that to be the source of
>> the noise on a functional power supply.
>>
>> PlainBill
>>
>
> some cap or caps(electrolytics,usually) may be marginal,and adding up to
> right near the current limit point,or maybe a resistor divider that sets
> the reference for that limit has changed value. any condition that draws
> extra power from the supply causes it to go into current limit.
>
> it sure sounds like a cap problem.
>
> --
> Jim Yanik
> jyanik
> at
> localnet
> dot com

Thanks, Im going to give this another once over again and check any caps
possibly overlooked. I reflowed a lot of marginal looking soler joints. But
this being PBF construction they all look marginal.. Have been removing the
bad solder and replacing with standard solder.

Someone else suggested that the problem may lay in the x or y sus boards.
The y sus board's heat sink gets much hotter than the x sus even though the
contrustion between the two is very similar. It is hot enough that it is
uncomfortable to hold your hand on.

So maybe the noise I hear is the PSU current limiting and the cause is the
y sus board sucking too much juce...

It had some very small capacitors which were possibly bad. I forget their
value, but were in the 6 ohm range when tested with my esr meter, althouh
unphased by freezer spray.

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Sun, Oct 10 2010 11:00 am
From: "Michael Kennedy"

"circuit" <circuit@123456.tv> wrote in message
news:i8lpju$q0l$1@speranza.aioe.org...
> Its got to stop sometime after its been unplugged. I do not think there
> are any relays in todays plasma power boards, so the ticking is likely
> coming from a transformer. Its a ' special effect ' that happens when the
> power supply is loaded down somewhere, usually on one of the main DC
> outputs. The overload condition triggers an imbalance in the feedback
> circuirty, and the power supply cannot sustain itself with this condition
> present. You may want to check the temperature of the big heat sinks on
> the X-sus board at the peak of the problem, could be they are very hot.
>

I think you hit the problem dead on. The Y sus board is getting quite hot
but the x sus isnt. Any idea what would cause the board to consume more
wattage and therefore get hot?

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Kenwood L-1000T , 1990
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/90eff8f4c2e643e4?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 7 ==
Date: Sun, Oct 10 2010 8:57 am
From: "N_Cook"

Expensive looking fm tuner not keeping stations etc in memory. Not fully
dismantled as quite a workup to get to the stage of getting to the C11
supercap with only 1/4V on it. Anyone aware of anything else that needs
changing as a lot of normal electros on the Vdd line through different
parts of the kit. I will change the fractional farad (if I can find such a
squat one) but how to test these to confirm it is failed? charge to 5V and
time discharge through an R but what sort of value , high enough not to
phase it , and low enough for reasonable time to 2.5V? ESR I imagine is
irrelevant. Schematic is on e-service

== 2 of 7 ==
Date: Sun, Oct 10 2010 9:43 am
From: "William Sommerwerck"

If there's only 1/4 volt across the supercap, what's the cause? Is the
charging voltage low, or is the cap leaky/shorted?

For testing, I'd try charging the cap through 100 ohms or so. That should
give a time constant in a range suitable for following along on your DVM.

Unless you have zero vertical clearance, a replacement cap can be mounted
just about anywhere. The lead length doesn't matter.

== 3 of 7 ==
Date: Sun, Oct 10 2010 9:54 am
From: "David"

>"William Sommerwerck" wrote in message
>news:i8sqgc$e49$1@news.eternal-september.org...

>If there's only 1/4 volt across the supercap, what's the cause?
>Is the
>charging voltage low, or is the cap leaky/shorted?
>
>For testing, I'd try charging the cap through 100 ohms or so.
>That should
>give a time constant in a range suitable for following along on
>your DVM.
>
>Unless you have zero vertical clearance, a replacement cap can
>be mounted
>just about anywhere. The lead length doesn't matter.

You should know that these types of capacitors have an extremely
high internal series resistance so the internal resistance would
swamp out 100 ohms and make the measurement useless. Low ESR is
not needed since they only need to supply micro-amps when called
to duty.

David

== 4 of 7 ==
Date: Sun, Oct 10 2010 10:17 am
From: "William Sommerwerck"

>> For testing, I'd try charging the cap through 100 ohms
>> or so. That should give a time constant in a range
>> suitable for following along on your DVM.

> You should know that these types of capacitors have an
> extremely high internal series resistance so the internal
> resistance would swamp out 100 ohms and make the
> measurement useless.

I once replaced a nicad battery in a tuner with a supercap, fed through
about 5K. The capacitor charges up quickly, which does not suggest an
extremely high series internal resistance. (I can check this, if you like.
The tuner is in my bedroom.)

The Wikipedia article says that EDLCs have a very high /power/ density --
that is, they can deliver their stored energy very quickly. This is
inconsistent with an extremely high series internal resistance. In fact, the
article lists the following advantage...

"Extremely low internal resistance (ESR) and consequent high cycle
efficiency (95% or more) and extremely low heating levels."

== 5 of 7 ==
Date: Sun, Oct 10 2010 10:29 am
From: "N_Cook"

William Sommerwerck <grizzledgeezer@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:i8sqgc$e49$1@news.eternal-september.org...
> If there's only 1/4 volt across the supercap, what's the cause? Is the
> charging voltage low, or is the cap leaky/shorted?
>
> For testing, I'd try charging the cap through 100 ohms or so. That should
> give a time constant in a range suitable for following along on your DVM.
>
> Unless you have zero vertical clearance, a replacement cap can be mounted
> just about anywhere. The lead length doesn't matter.
>
>

Wiring across from the cavernous central space makes sense. The very squat
form factor of the original may well have precipitated its failure. I was
forgetting about all the diodes along the power rail route so only one
nearby standard electro (assuming the diodes are ok)

== 6 of 7 ==
Date: Sun, Oct 10 2010 10:32 am
From: Art Todesco

On 10/10/2010 1:17 PM, William Sommerwerck wrote:
>>> For testing, I'd try charging the cap through 100 ohms
>>> or so. That should give a time constant in a range
>>> suitable for following along on your DVM.
>
>> You should know that these types of capacitors have an
>> extremely high internal series resistance so the internal
>> resistance would swamp out 100 ohms and make the
>> measurement useless.
>
> I once replaced a nicad battery in a tuner with a supercap, fed through
> about 5K. The capacitor charges up quickly, which does not suggest an
> extremely high series internal resistance. (I can check this, if you like.
> The tuner is in my bedroom.)
>
> The Wikipedia article says that EDLCs have a very high /power/ density --
> that is, they can deliver their stored energy very quickly. This is
> inconsistent with an extremely high series internal resistance. In fact, the
> article lists the following advantage...
>
> "Extremely low internal resistance (ESR) and consequent high cycle
> efficiency (95% or more) and extremely low heating levels."
>
>
I may be wrong, but I think that we're confusing 'high internal
resistance' and 'leakage resistance'. Internal resistance would be in
series with the capacitor. Leakage resistance would be across the
capacitor, causing it to discharge.

== 7 of 7 ==
Date: Sun, Oct 10 2010 11:59 am
From: "David"

"William Sommerwerck" wrote in message
news:i8ssep$mk2$1@news.eternal-september.org...

>> For testing, I'd try charging the cap through 100 ohms
>> or so. That should give a time constant in a range
>> suitable for following along on your DVM.

> You should know that these types of capacitors have an
> extremely high internal series resistance so the internal
> resistance would swamp out 100 ohms and make the
> measurement useless.

The Wikipedia article says that EDLCs have a very high /power/
density --
that is, they can deliver their stored energy very quickly. This
is
inconsistent with an extremely high series internal resistance.
In fact, the
article lists the following advantage...

"Extremely low internal resistance (ESR) and consequent high
cycle
efficiency (95% or more) and extremely low heating levels."

Note that we are not talking about super-caps here but memory
backup capacitors that are very small considering their
capacitance and CV^2 value. Super capacitors are a very
different chemistry and for a different purpose entirely.

David

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http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/a1cc3e41842fb93d?hl=en
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== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Sun, Oct 10 2010 9:30 am
From: easy cash

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== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Sun, Oct 10 2010 9:37 am
From: Meat Plow

On Sun, 10 Oct 2010 09:30:32 -0700, easy cash wrote:

> Too Much Sexy Girls In This World

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--
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== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sun, Oct 10 2010 10:30 am
From: Esolutions

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== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sun, Oct 10 2010 10:58 am
From: david

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== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sun, Oct 10 2010 11:18 am
From: Anne Onime

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== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sun, Oct 10 2010 11:27 am
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== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sun, Oct 10 2010 11:59 am
From: Abhilasha

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