sci.electronics.repair - 9 new messages in 5 topics - digest

sci.electronics.repair
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair?hl=en

sci.electronics.repair@googlegroups.com

Today's topics:

* Driveway sensor, model 917-1, mfg. around 1993 by "Detector Systems" - 4
messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/502c70dec1b2d85e?hl=en
* sgc528[23] xref - 2 messages, 2 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/6861c55ad109c3a9?hl=en
* Transistor ID... - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/206b5827a2414f1b?hl=en
* What should be the value of the resistance? - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/0e24671f1705909d?hl=en
* Q: Replacing the blu-ray Laser Diode of a PS3 - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/1cac3505fd4eb852?hl=en

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Driveway sensor, model 917-1, mfg. around 1993 by "Detector Systems"
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/502c70dec1b2d85e?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 4 ==
Date: Wed, Oct 13 2010 3:51 pm
From: nesesu

On Oct 13, 12:46 pm, klem kedidelhopper <captainvideo462...@gmail.com>
wrote:
> On Oct 13, 1:32 pm, klem kedidelhopper <captainvideo462...@gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > On Oct 13, 12:19 pm, nesesu <neil_sutcli...@telus.net> wrote:
>
> > > On Oct 13, 5:37 am, klem kedidelhopper <captainvideo462...@gmail.com>
> > > wrote:
>
> > > > On Oct 12, 10:48 am, nesesu <neil_sutcli...@telus.net> wrote:
>
> > > > > On Oct 12, 6:12 am, klem kedidelhopper <captainvideo462...@gmail.com>
> > > > > wrote:
>
> > > > > > I have this unit which I installed many years ago in a new fast food
> > > > > > business. The restaurant failed shortly after it was installed and I
> > > > > > got the equipment back. So in essence it is like brand new.and was
> > > > > > operational when it was removed from service.
>
> > > > > > The unit is a self contained box with loop sense wires and isolated
> > > > > > spdt relay wires. It operates from 120V. The loop was buried in the
> > > > > > driveway and so I was unable to retrieve that part of the system.
>
> > > > > > Installation was rather simple. Unfortunately I can't find the
> > > > > > installation instructions however I do recall that we had to cut the
> > > > > > asphalt driveway and bury a loop of AWG. 14 cable. The loop would
> > > > > > sense a large mass of metal over it such as a car, (as opposed to a
> > > > > > non metallic mass), at a drive through and operate a form C relay. I
> > > > > > would like to set this unit up in my own driveway now however the
> > > > > > problem is I don't remember the configuration of the loop, IE how many
> > > > > > turns there were in the loop or its diameter. Actually I think that we
> > > > > > buried it down 8 inches or so and that it was rectangular shaped but
> > > > > > I'm just not sure.
>
> > > > > > There is no longer a listing for Detector systems however the strange
> > > > > > thing is the number 917-1 does come up as some kind of driveway sensor
> > > > > > but I can't seem to find any information on it.
>
> > > > > > I would think that this type of unit must be similar to those that are
> > > > > > used at intersections for traffic light control but I'm not sure how
> > > > > > to find that information.
>
> > > > > > Does anyone have any experience with this type of sensor who can
> > > > > > advise me as to the sense loop characteristics? Thanks for any
> > > > > > assistance, Lenny
>
> > > > > A few thoughts on these sensors. Generally, the loop is non critical
> > > > > and the unit automatically compensates for variation. The loop is
> > > > > somewhat standardized since one does not dig up the road to change the
> > > > > loop if the detector unit needs replacing. I seem to recall that the
> > > > > loop is typically about 4' x 8' and about 2 or three turns. One could
> > > > > easily tape a test coil to the driveway and try it out. Usually, the
> > > > > coil is buried about 3-4" into the asphalt.
> > > > > Try looking up the oldest sensor info you can find [Eagle signals?]
> > > > > and see what info it has on the coil.
> > > > > Usually, the connections on the quality sensors is by a single 'MS'
> > > > > type circular connector with 8 connections. You should be able to open
> > > > > the case and trace the pinout. Connections should be: AC input [line,
> > > > > neutral, ground], Output [NC, COM, NO] and LOOP.
> > > > > You could also check with your local roads department's electrical
> > > > > shop. Good luck!
>
> > > > > Neil S.- Hide quoted text -
>
> > > > > - Show quoted text -
>
> > > > Hi Neil
> > > > I made a coil in the configuration you described out of 14AWG. wire.
> > > > The coil is 4 turns of wire with a 4 X 8 rectangular shape. The
> > > > perimeter is 96" approximately. I just realized that this is a larger
> > > > perimeter than you suggested so I wonder if that might cause a
> > > > stability problem such as I'm having? The funny thing is with this
> > > > coil the control unit will sometimes detect the vehicle every time on
> > > > the approach, (within 2 feet of the car even before the car passes
> > > > over it. At other times there is no detection at all. I tried the
> > > > different modes, pulse, 2 second delay, presence, and messed with the
> > > > sensitivity. So I'm wondering if I need more or less turns or maybe a
> > > > different loop size.
> > > > I could be wrong because this was a long time ago but the driveway may
> > > > have been about 8 feet wide. The cuts we made for the coil may have
> > > > been much narrower than this coil. Those cuts could have been 8 feet
> > > > by say 4 or 5 inches or so. Do you think that could have been
> > > > possible.? Would configuration and size cause a reliability problem
> > > > such as I'm having? This is so frustrating. I know that the system
> > > > worked well at the time. I just can't remember exactly what we did.
> > > > Thanks for any further input. Lenny- Hide quoted text -
>
> > > > - Show quoted text -
>
> > > Lenny, I am a bit puzzled by your coil description. You say it is 4 x
> > > 8 and 4 turns, but has a perimiter of 96". Since 96" is only 8', I
> > > would think that the coil you made would have a perimiter of 288". Try
> > > and reduce the coil to 3 turns, but don't cut the wire off. The leads
> > > from the unit to the coil should be twisted together or you can get
> > > some funny results due to stray pick-up. Normally, the unit should not
> > > pick up the car until it is on top of the coil--it sounds like you
> > > have too much sensitivity--which is why I suggest reducing the coil
> > > turns. I have also never seen more than 2 or 3 turn coils, but that
> > > does not mean much.
> > > I cannot say I have seen any really narrow coils like you describe,
> > > but some on driveways are like 4' x 3' and the newer ones on the
> > > highway are about a 4' circle [neat machine that cuts the circular
> > > slot in the road surface]. Size and configuration are THE important
> > > thing in these coils, so it needs to be right for that unit. It is
> > > really not much different that getting a radio back loop antenna to
> > > track the tuning dial--a fair bit of cut-and- try.
>
> > > Neil- Hide quoted text -
>
> > > - Show quoted text -
>
> > Hi Neil
> > You were correct. The coil is comprised of two 96" sections and two
> > 48" sections for an approximate total of 288".
> > You mentioned that the coil I constructed might make the system too
> > sensitive. If that were the case then why does it trip the unit
> > sometimes and just as the car approaches and then not at all at other
> > times? I would think that too sensitive would cause false tripping to
> > occur at random times as well. but I'm not really seeing that. but for
> > certain, I'm no expert with this type of equipment. I'm going to take
> > one turn off the existing coil however I didn't quite understand what
> > you meant by "not cutting the wires". If I reduce the number of turns
> > to 3 and not cut the wire I will have one lead longer than the other.
> > That in itself I would think would cause an imbalance. Should I then
> > just add the difference onto the shorter lead, twist them together and
> > then connect to the short pair of twisted wires (loop), coming out of
> > the unit?.
> > Also one other thing concerns me. right now we're just testing this
> > system with a coil laying on the ground and the controller connected
> > to it right there. If I do get this thing working reliably, ultimately
> > the coil will be buried about 150 -200 feet from the house. I planned
> > to run two conductor sheilded cable, burried and grounded on the unit
> > end out to the coil. Alot of work. What is the chance that the
> > addition of this cable may alter the impedance of the system to the
> > point of putting me right back to where I am now? Lenny- Hide quoted text -
>
> > - Show quoted text -
>
> Neil
> Just an update. I removed one turn from the coil and added the
> difference onto the shorter wire. I twisted the wires together. so the
> lead in so to speak is now about 290 or so inches of twisted pair 14
> AWG. There are four dip switches in the control box. One is marked
> "presence" and "pulse". Presence requires that the vehicle occupies
> the space for two seconds in order to trip the relay. For fast food
> restaurants and such I seem to remember that is the correct setting
> but for simple detection like I need I think we want the "pulse"
> setting. There is another switch marked "two second delay" and "off".
> I think that switch is related to presence and pulse and so I set that
> one "off". There are two other switches which I think are related to
> sensitivity however their markings are very ambiguous. There seems to
> be a high, med, and low combination of these printed on the circuit
> board but it makes no sense at all. I'm not sure what those settings
> are I did note though that when both these switches are in the off
> position. the vehicle is detected when the front end is about two feet
> from the coil. Sliding one of these switches to the right makes it so
> that the vehicle has to have one foot of its front end over the coil..
> So it would appear that this combination makes the system less
> sensitive.
> Another interesting observation was that moving the coil around a bit
> with my foot would sometimes set off the relay. Maybe thats not a
> valid test though. Lenny.- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

So, Lenny, is the unit working more reliably with the fewer turn coil?
or with the sensitivity set lower?
I have a feeler out to the signals engineer for the City of Richmond
to see if he has any data on coils and especially for your make/model.
Give that a couple of days and I might have something for you.
I don't know how long a pair you can run to the coil, but since the
detectors are installed in the control cubical it is reasonable that
the run to the furthest pick up coil at a large intersection could be
as much as 150-200 feet.
Disturbing the coil mechanically [kicking it with your foot] could
quite concievably affect it enough to trigger the detector.

Neil

== 2 of 4 ==
Date: Wed, Oct 13 2010 4:03 pm
From: nesesu

Lenny, here is the instruction manual for that detector. It lists the
coil configuration data as well as sensitivity settings and so on. Let
me know how it works!
http://www.3m.com/us/mfg_industrial/foodservice/Accessories/Loop%20Information/917-1%20Loop%20Detector%20Installation%20Instr.PDF

Neil

== 3 of 4 ==
Date: Wed, Oct 13 2010 8:42 pm
From: "hrhofmann@att.net"

On Oct 13, 6:03 pm, nesesu <neil_sutcli...@telus.net> wrote:
> On Oct 13, 12:46 pm, klem kedidelhopper <captainvideo462...@gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > On Oct 13, 1:32 pm, klem kedidelhopper <captainvideo462...@gmail.com>
> > wrote:
>
> > > On Oct 13, 12:19 pm, nesesu <neil_sutcli...@telus.net> wrote:
>
> > > > On Oct 13, 5:37 am, klem kedidelhopper <captainvideo462...@gmail.com>
> > > > wrote:
>
> > > > > On Oct 12, 10:48 am, nesesu <neil_sutcli...@telus.net> wrote:
>
> > > > > > On Oct 12, 6:12 am, klem kedidelhopper <captainvideo462...@gmail.com>
> > > > > > wrote:
>
> > > > > > > I have this unit which I installed many years ago in a new fast food
> > > > > > > business. The restaurant failed shortly after it was installed and I
> > > > > > > got the equipment back. So in essence it is like brand new.and was
> > > > > > > operational when it was removed from service.
>
> > > > > > > The unit is a self contained box with loop sense wires and isolated
> > > > > > > spdt relay wires. It operates from 120V. The loop was buried in the
> > > > > > > driveway and so I was unable to retrieve that part of the system.
>
> > > > > > > Installation was rather simple. Unfortunately I can't find the
> > > > > > > installation instructions however I do recall that we had to cut the
> > > > > > > asphalt driveway and bury a loop of AWG. 14 cable. The loop would
> > > > > > > sense a large mass of metal over it such as a car, (as opposed to a
> > > > > > > non metallic mass), at a drive through and operate a form C relay. I
> > > > > > > would like to set this unit up in my own driveway now however the
> > > > > > > problem is I don't remember the configuration of the loop, IE how many
> > > > > > > turns there were in the loop or its diameter. Actually I think that we
> > > > > > > buried it down 8 inches or so and that it was rectangular shaped but
> > > > > > > I'm just not sure.
>
> > > > > > > There is no longer a listing for Detector systems however the strange
> > > > > > > thing is the number 917-1 does come up as some kind of driveway sensor
> > > > > > > but I can't seem to find any information on it.
>
> > > > > > > I would think that this type of unit must be similar to those that are
> > > > > > > used at intersections for traffic light control but I'm not sure how
> > > > > > > to find that information.
>
> > > > > > > Does anyone have any experience with this type of sensor who can
> > > > > > > advise me as to the sense loop characteristics? Thanks for any
> > > > > > > assistance, Lenny
>
> > > > > > A few thoughts on these sensors. Generally, the loop is non critical
> > > > > > and the unit automatically compensates for variation. The loop is
> > > > > > somewhat standardized since one does not dig up the road to change the
> > > > > > loop if the detector unit needs replacing. I seem to recall that the
> > > > > > loop is typically about 4' x 8' and about 2 or three turns. One could
> > > > > > easily tape a test coil to the driveway and try it out. Usually, the
> > > > > > coil is buried about 3-4" into the asphalt.
> > > > > > Try looking up the oldest sensor info you can find [Eagle signals?]
> > > > > > and see what info it has on the coil.
> > > > > > Usually, the connections on the quality sensors is by a single 'MS'
> > > > > > type circular connector with 8 connections. You should be able to open
> > > > > > the case and trace the pinout. Connections should be: AC input [line,
> > > > > > neutral, ground], Output [NC, COM, NO] and LOOP.
> > > > > > You could also check with your local roads department's electrical
> > > > > > shop. Good luck!
>
> > > > > > Neil S.- Hide quoted text -
>
> > > > > > - Show quoted text -
>
> > > > > Hi Neil
> > > > > I made a coil in the configuration you described out of 14AWG. wire.
> > > > > The coil is 4 turns of wire with a 4 X 8 rectangular shape. The
> > > > > perimeter is 96" approximately. I just realized that this is a larger
> > > > > perimeter than you suggested so I wonder if that might cause a
> > > > > stability problem such as I'm having? The funny thing is with this
> > > > > coil the control unit will sometimes detect the vehicle every time on
> > > > > the approach, (within 2 feet of the car even before the car passes
> > > > > over it. At other times there is no detection at all. I tried the
> > > > > different modes, pulse, 2 second delay, presence, and messed with the
> > > > > sensitivity. So I'm wondering if I need more or less turns or maybe a
> > > > > different loop size.
> > > > > I could be wrong because this was a long time ago but the driveway may
> > > > > have been about 8 feet wide. The cuts we made for the coil may have
> > > > > been much narrower than this coil. Those cuts could have been 8 feet
> > > > > by say 4 or 5 inches or so. Do you think that could have been
> > > > > possible.? Would configuration and size cause a reliability problem
> > > > > such as I'm having? This is so frustrating. I know that the system
> > > > > worked well at the time. I just can't remember exactly what we did.
> > > > > Thanks for any further input. Lenny- Hide quoted text -
>
> > > > > - Show quoted text -
>
> > > > Lenny, I am a bit puzzled by your coil description. You say it is 4 x
> > > > 8 and 4 turns, but has a perimiter of 96". Since 96" is only 8', I
> > > > would think that the coil you made would have a perimiter of 288". Try
> > > > and reduce the coil to 3 turns, but don't cut the wire off. The leads
> > > > from the unit to the coil should be twisted together or you can get
> > > > some funny results due to stray pick-up. Normally, the unit should not
> > > > pick up the car until it is on top of the coil--it sounds like you
> > > > have too much sensitivity--which is why I suggest reducing the coil
> > > > turns. I have also never seen more than 2 or 3 turn coils, but that
> > > > does not mean much.
> > > > I cannot say I have seen any really narrow coils like you describe,
> > > > but some on driveways are like 4' x 3' and the newer ones on the
> > > > highway are about a 4' circle [neat machine that cuts the circular
> > > > slot in the road surface]. Size and configuration are THE important
> > > > thing in these coils, so it needs to be right for that unit. It is
> > > > really not much different that getting a radio back loop antenna to
> > > > track the tuning dial--a fair bit of cut-and- try.
>
> > > > Neil- Hide quoted text -
>
> > > > - Show quoted text -
>
> > > Hi Neil
> > > You were correct. The coil is comprised of two 96" sections and two
> > > 48" sections for an approximate total of 288".
> > > You mentioned that the coil I constructed might make the system too
> > > sensitive. If that were the case then why does it trip the unit
> > > sometimes and just as the car approaches and then not at all at other
> > > times? I would think that too sensitive would cause false tripping to
> > > occur at random times as well. but I'm not really seeing that. but for
> > > certain, I'm no expert with this type of equipment. I'm going to take
> > > one turn off the existing coil however I didn't quite understand what
> > > you meant by "not cutting the wires". If I reduce the number of turns
> > > to 3 and not cut the wire I will have one lead longer than the other.
> > > That in itself I would think would cause an imbalance. Should I then
> > > just add the difference onto the shorter lead, twist them together and
> > > then connect to the short pair of twisted wires (loop), coming out of
> > > the unit?.
> > > Also one other thing concerns me. right now we're just testing this
> > > system with a coil laying on the ground and the controller connected
> > > to it right there. If I do get this thing working reliably, ultimately
> > > the coil will be buried about 150 -200 feet from the house. I planned
> > > to run two conductor sheilded cable, burried and grounded on the unit
> > > end out to the coil. Alot of work. What is the chance that the
> > > addition of this cable may alter the impedance of the system to the
> > > point of putting me right back to where I am now? Lenny- Hide quoted text -
>
> > > - Show quoted text -
>
> > Neil
> > Just an update. I removed one turn from the coil and added the
> > difference onto the shorter wire. I twisted the wires together. so the
> > lead in so to speak is now about 290 or so inches of twisted pair 14
> > AWG. There are four dip switches in the control box. One is marked
> > "presence" and "pulse". Presence requires that the vehicle occupies
> > the space for two seconds in order to trip the relay. For fast food
> > restaurants and such I seem to remember that is the correct setting
> > but for simple detection like I need I think we want the "pulse"
> > setting. There is another switch marked "two second delay" and "off".
> > I think that switch is related to presence and pulse and so I set that
> > one "off". There are two other switches which I think are related to
> > sensitivity however their markings are very ambiguous. There seems to
> > be a high, med, and low combination of these printed on the circuit
> > board but it makes no sense at all. I'm not sure what those settings
> > are I did note though that when both these switches are in the off
> > position. the vehicle is detected when the front end is about two feet
> > from the coil. Sliding one of these switches to the right makes it so
> > that the vehicle has to have one foot of its front end over the coil..
> > So it would appear that this combination makes the system less
> > sensitive.
> > Another interesting observation was that moving the coil around a bit
> > with my foot would sometimes set off the relay. Maybe thats not a
> > valid test though. Lenny.- Hide quoted text -
>
> > - Show quoted text -
>
> Lenny, here is the instruction manual for that detector. It lists the
> coil configuration data as well as sensitivity settings and so on. Let
> me know how it works!http://www.3m.com/us/mfg_industrial/foodservice/Accessories/Loop%20In...
>
> Neil- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -

How did you locate the manual?

== 4 of 4 ==
Date: Wed, Oct 13 2010 10:21 pm
From: nesesu

On Oct 13, 8:42 pm, "hrhofm...@att.net" <hrhofm...@att.net> wrote:

> How did you locate the manual?

Third item shown when I Googled "Detector Systems model 917-1".

Neil S.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: sgc528[23] xref
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/6861c55ad109c3a9?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Wed, Oct 13 2010 3:58 pm
From: PeterD

On 13 Oct 2010 14:48:19 GMT, frank <frank@isntvalid.it> wrote:

>PeterD <peter2@hipson.net> wrote:
>>
>> Why (have distinguishing prefixes)?
>>
>> SGC5282 NPN 60V 800mA 3W 250MHz
>> SGC5283 PNP 60V 600mA 3W 200MHz
>>
>> Gee, that was easy!
>
>many thanks, can I ask you where did you find these specs?
>
>Frank IZ8DWF

Google is your friend, they were from something from (of all places)
Heathkit, IIRC. I just searched for the first one, got about 10 hits,
and only the last one (a PDF) looked interesting (most of the rest
were your query...)

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Thurs, Oct 14 2010 12:18 am
From: frank

PeterD <peter2@hipson.net> wrote:
> On 13 Oct 2010 14:48:19 GMT, frank <frank@isntvalid.it> wrote:
>
>>
>>many thanks, can I ask you where did you find these specs?
>>
>>Frank IZ8DWF
>
> Google is your friend, they were from something from (of all places)
> Heathkit, IIRC. I just searched for the first one, got about 10 hits,
> and only the last one (a PDF) looked interesting (most of the rest
> were your query...)

Interesting, I did a google search before posting the request to the
newsgroup (and repeated the query right now) and it did always showed
two or three results with no meaningful data (other than beeing used in
heathkit equipment). No PDF either.
I guess google can chose friends then :-)
I'd still like to see that pdf if you can post a link please.
Best regards.

Frank IZ8DWF

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Transistor ID...
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/206b5827a2414f1b?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Wed, Oct 13 2010 5:34 pm
From: who where

On Wed, 13 Oct 2010 14:08:51 -0700 (PDT), tmcw <tmcwboards@gmail.com>
wrote:

>Posted this at sci.electronics.basics; got redirected to here. Hope
>someone can help:
>
>Have a broken inverter on a 2000fp Dell LCD monitor.
>
>One of the transistors is visibly fried on the board.
>
>Can anyone help me ID what type of transistor it is, and where I
>could
>source a replacement?
>
>Markings on it: DT QX
>
>Q12 in the photo linked below.
>
>Photo: http://i663.photobucket.com/albums/uu357/polyfusion/2000fp_Invert.jpg

have a peek at
http://www.badcaps.net/forum/showthread.php?t=7259&highlight=2000fp

and the SMD codebook lists DT as:

SGS BCW67AR SOT23R PNP 32V 0.8A Hfe 100min

==============================================================================
TOPIC: What should be the value of the resistance?
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/0e24671f1705909d?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Wed, Oct 13 2010 11:15 pm
From: supahi mahanta

Small signal voltage gain by one small resistance connected to emitter
through a large by passed resistance and junction to base resistance
for negative feedback. If small R is 0.22K and Rc=10K. What should be
its value?

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Q: Replacing the blu-ray Laser Diode of a PS3
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/1cac3505fd4eb852?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Thurs, Oct 14 2010 12:48 am
From: "Arfa Daily"

"Nick Fielding" <nfielding@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:2c8a1cce-a1a7-4381-9f89-e2ca7a12bc02@s19g2000vbr.googlegroups.com...
> Hello,
>
> I'm trying to figure out how to replace a laser diode inside a ps3 blu-
> ray drive. I think I now know the best way to extract the diode.
>
> My problem is installing the new diode; I have read in several places
> that it's not simply a case of whacking the new one in, it has to be
> aligned? Is this true, and if so, what would be the best way to go
> about aligning it? How much is it likely to have to be rotated, i.e.
> fractions of a degree or larger? I don't see that it can be rotated
> that much as its degree of rotation would be limited by the flex cable
> it's soldered to.
>
> Many thanks for any help!
> Nick

I've got a colleague who replaces many PS3 laser assemblies (I take it you
are referring to the optical head which runs on the deck within the drive,
not the *actual* laser diode ?) I will ask him what is necessary. Note also
that I think I recall him saying that there are two if not three different
variants, so make sure you get the right one. I have dismantled a number of
these drives to remove discs from PS3s suffering the YLOD condition. Be
careful when you replace the drive's top plate, as several bits of disc
handling mech, have to engage correctly with other bits on the main body of
the drive. Note also that once the top cover is removed, exposing the top
mech plate of the drive, the disc clamp just lifts away. It is not retained
by anything other than being 'sandwiched' between the mech plate and the
cover. When reassembling, it just sits on top of the (should be at that
point closed) lifter 'scissors'.

Arfa

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