sci.electronics.repair - 18 new messages in 6 topics - digest

sci.electronics.repair
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair?hl=en

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Today's topics:

* Need to buy a long Phillips no. 1 screwdriver - 5 messages, 4 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/105a0819a4728e8c?hl=en
* OT: Video - Pumpkin Carving With A Glock - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/54b7caf7ce6a1645?hl=en
* Toshiba HD DVD Player HD-D3KU Draw Won't Open - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/689b49caeea46567?hl=en
* InovaBrasil - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/a40b7561a48e7326?hl=en
* In-situ car battery charging - 9 messages, 7 authors
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/2a91e579ca13d204?hl=en
* cheap wholesale snow shoes UGG boots free shipping paypal payment http://www.
jialiuonline.com - 1 messages, 1 author
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/74e13228263c4de2?hl=en

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Need to buy a long Phillips no. 1 screwdriver
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/105a0819a4728e8c?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 5 ==
Date: Sat, Oct 30 2010 10:21 pm
From: Jeff Liebermann

On Sat, 30 Oct 2010 21:37:47 -0500, Jim Yanik <jyanik@abuse.gov>
wrote:
>Skycraft Surplus in Orlando has them (new),I just bought one a few weeks
>ago.
>6 in. OAL. they keep them in a cup at the checkout counter.
>IIRC,either $1 or $1.50 each.

I think those are the coffee stirrers, not the screwdrivers.

With a bit of practice, it's possible to use a file to fix a trashed
Phillips screwdriver tip. I'm still using screwdrivers (mostly Sears
Craftsman) that I inherited (or stole) from my father. Most are 30-40
years old and some have been re-filed or re-ground several times.

I bought a "Husky" brand #2 screwdriver, about 10" long, at Home
Depot. Looks nice, but wouldn't work. It stipped out most screws.
Then, I noticed that the tip came to a point. Grinding down the point
somewhat flat, the screwdriver now works normally. I also inspected
my collection of Phillips screwdrivers and found that most of the
older Xcelite screwdrivers were also excessively pointy. The Sears
Craftsman tips were fine. The problem is not really the screwdriver,
but the badly formed cold headed Phillips screws.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Enhance-the-functionality-of-many-screwdrivers./

--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

== 2 of 5 ==
Date: Sun, Oct 31 2010 2:41 am
From: "N_Cook"

Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote in message
news:p9upc6d86qv8fm4pf4n7gjlbm73j6bse7v@4ax.com...
> On Sat, 30 Oct 2010 21:37:47 -0500, Jim Yanik <jyanik@abuse.gov>
> wrote:
> >Skycraft Surplus in Orlando has them (new),I just bought one a few weeks
> >ago.
> >6 in. OAL. they keep them in a cup at the checkout counter.
> >IIRC,either $1 or $1.50 each.
>
> I think those are the coffee stirrers, not the screwdrivers.
>
> With a bit of practice, it's possible to use a file to fix a trashed
> Phillips screwdriver tip. I'm still using screwdrivers (mostly Sears
> Craftsman) that I inherited (or stole) from my father. Most are 30-40
> years old and some have been re-filed or re-ground several times.
>
> I bought a "Husky" brand #2 screwdriver, about 10" long, at Home
> Depot. Looks nice, but wouldn't work. It stipped out most screws.
> Then, I noticed that the tip came to a point. Grinding down the point
> somewhat flat, the screwdriver now works normally. I also inspected
> my collection of Phillips screwdrivers and found that most of the
> older Xcelite screwdrivers were also excessively pointy. The Sears
> Craftsman tips were fine. The problem is not really the screwdriver,
> but the badly formed cold headed Phillips screws.
>
>
http://www.instructables.com/id/Enhance-the-functionality-of-many-screwdrive
rs./
>
>
> --
> Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
> 150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
> Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
> Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

for the situation of those long screws to fix the plastic cases of powered
speakers and hand drills etc, including those recessed into the body. Where
they often bind so much with the plastic over the long screw length, that
the steel shank shears on trying to undo it. Find a soldering iron heater
that will slide over the screwdriver to heat the screw head and down into
the plastic

== 3 of 5 ==
Date: Sun, Oct 31 2010 8:29 am
From: Smitty Two

In article <p9upc6d86qv8fm4pf4n7gjlbm73j6bse7v@4ax.com>,
Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote:

> On Sat, 30 Oct 2010 21:37:47 -0500, Jim Yanik <jyanik@abuse.gov>
> wrote:
> >Skycraft Surplus in Orlando has them (new),I just bought one a few weeks
> >ago.
> >6 in. OAL. they keep them in a cup at the checkout counter.
> >IIRC,either $1 or $1.50 each.
>
> I think those are the coffee stirrers, not the screwdrivers.
>
> With a bit of practice, it's possible to use a file to fix a trashed
> Phillips screwdriver tip. I'm still using screwdrivers (mostly Sears
> Craftsman) that I inherited (or stole) from my father. Most are 30-40
> years old and some have been re-filed or re-ground several times.
>
> I bought a "Husky" brand #2 screwdriver, about 10" long, at Home
> Depot. Looks nice, but wouldn't work. It stipped out most screws.
> Then, I noticed that the tip came to a point. Grinding down the point
> somewhat flat, the screwdriver now works normally. I also inspected
> my collection of Phillips screwdrivers and found that most of the
> older Xcelite screwdrivers were also excessively pointy. The Sears
> Craftsman tips were fine. The problem is not really the screwdriver,
> but the badly formed cold headed Phillips screws.
>
> http://www.instructables.com/id/Enhance-the-functionality-of-many-screwdrivers
> ./

The problem in many cases is that manufacturers have switched to
posidrive screws, which to a casual observer look like phillips. But a
typical phillips driver doesn't fit a posidrive screw worth a damn.

== 4 of 5 ==
Date: Sun, Oct 31 2010 10:28 am
From: Jeff Liebermann

On Sun, 31 Oct 2010 08:29:38 -0700, Smitty Two
<prestwhich@earthlink.net> wrote:

>The problem in many cases is that manufacturers have switched to
>posidrive screws, which to a casual observer look like phillips. But a
>typical phillips driver doesn't fit a posidrive screw worth a damn.

The Husky screwdriver I purchased was definately a #2 Phillips. It
even said so on the plastic handle.

Pozidriv screw heads have radial marker lines coined into the head at
the 45 degree points.
<http://www.justbrits.com/pozi/pozidriv.html>
Note the flattened tips on BOTH drivers. The problem I keep seeing is
that many screwdrivers have pointed tips while the recesses in common
screw heads are becoming shallower.

The drivers are easy to distinguish:
<http://www.ikeafans.com/forums/assembly-installation/44529-phillips-pozidriv.html>
--
Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

== 5 of 5 ==
Date: Sun, Oct 31 2010 2:40 pm
From: "Wild_Bill"

I agree that the surfaces for good universal engagement into any particular
size of phillips recesses, aren't easily attained with a file, and
definitely not in any practical sense.

My quality drivers are either ground or cut with round tooling.. properly
dressed abrasive wheels or properly profiled cutters that don't produce
straight lines in the root of the cut.

Filing a #2P to fit a #1P would be little more than an exercise in
frustration. A lot of trial and error would be required even if using a
rotary tool.. die grinder or Dremel.
Then the diameter would likely also need to be reduced to access #1P screws
in recessed holes.

Screw head recesses differ in depth, and a fully filed tip that fits one
screw will likely not fit others as accurately.

In a desperate situation, I'd definitely go for the two-flute/flat driver
that Whit suggests.

--
Cheers,
WB
.............

"whit3rd" <whit3rd@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:8914d930-3390-4e97-9ee1-bc8e58d36ab1@g13g2000yqj.googlegroups.com...
>
> > If you could really make a #2 into a #1 by filing, you could resharpen
> > the old #1 easier. The only hand-grind screwdriver tip that fits a
> > #1 Philips is a flat-blade screwdriver with a V grind and the 'right'
> > taper and blunted tip. And, that only hits two of the four flutes.
>
> Then you need more practice with a file and the right steel rod.

Not really; I just buy a new screwdriver (except there's some small
sizes
that the hand-grind is required for).

Good Philips tips are mass-producible by grinding, but all my attempts
at hand-filing have been minor to major misfits (I can only, by feel,
get the simpler V-blade shape to a good fit). The handy
instructions at
<http://www.doityourself.com/stry/how-to-file-down-a-stripped-
phillips-head-screwdriver&usg=AFQjCNFT1upaVGIRrHI4QYWvfMxxm-FEgw>

are, IMHO, laughably inadequate. To get it right, you need to
control
eight surfaces, in three dimensions, NONE of those surfaces is
parallel
to (for instance) the visible axis of the shaft.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: OT: Video - Pumpkin Carving With A Glock
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/54b7caf7ce6a1645?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sun, Oct 31 2010 4:35 am
From: RoadRunner

Now this is how everyone should carve their pumpkins!

http://www.craigboyce.com/w/2010/10/carve-your-pumpkin-with-a-glock/

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Toshiba HD DVD Player HD-D3KU Draw Won't Open
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/689b49caeea46567?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sun, Oct 31 2010 8:50 am
From: "Arfa Daily"

"D Messing" <davidjmessing@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:edf74$4ccceb5c$62133330$20209@ALLTEL.NET...
> This is a Toshiba HD DVD player
>
> After turning on the unit the pilot light changes from red to blue. The
> screen displays WELCOME.
>
> It never progresses beyond that point and the drawer can not be opened.
>
>
> It is like the boot sequence stops. Pushing the Open Drawer Button or
> other buttons there is a beep that sounds. Otherwise it is locked up.
>
> The player has had very light use. Any reset or what can be done???
>
> Dave
>

You could try manually opening the drawer, and moving the laser back from
it's 'home' position (assuming that it is actually there in the first place)
and then powering up. I have had odd behaviour like this that is corrected
by making the system control micro do something else first, before launching
into the main boot sequence. Another thing you could try, is to disengage
the unit from mains power, then press and hold the standby button, and then,
whilst still holding it, reapply mains power. Keep the button pressed for at
least 10 seconds. This is a very typical reset procedure that is used by
many manufacturers.

Arfa

==============================================================================
TOPIC: InovaBrasil
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/a40b7561a48e7326?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sun, Oct 31 2010 11:05 am
From: Rogerio

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Assinaturas : inovabrasil.assina@gmail.com
Twitter: @Inovabrasil2010

==============================================================================
TOPIC: In-situ car battery charging
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/2a91e579ca13d204?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 9 ==
Date: Sun, Oct 31 2010 7:34 am
From: pebe

I own a 2004 Vauxhall Corsa and want to ensure that I don't get a flat
battery, again, as a result of short winter trips. So I have purchased a
float charger.

Is there a simple way of connecting it up each night without lifting the
bonnet and clipping on to the battery terminals? I had thought of going
in through the cigarette lighter socket, but the ignition has to be
switched on before it connects.

--
pebe

== 2 of 9 ==
Date: Sun, Oct 31 2010 1:28 pm
From: Meat Plow

On Sun, 31 Oct 2010 14:34:55 +0000, pebe wrote:

> I own a 2004 Vauxhall Corsa and want to ensure that I don't get a flat
> battery, again, as a result of short winter trips. So I have purchased a
> float charger.
>
> Is there a simple way of connecting it up each night without lifting the
> bonnet and clipping on to the battery terminals? I had thought of going
> in through the cigarette lighter socket, but the ignition has to be
> switched on before it connects.

On my Harley motorcycle I have a male/female 2 pin Molex plug. Ring
terminals on the battery. 1.5 amp Schauer floating charge. Battery is
going on 9 years old and I don't anticipate replacing it soon. You could
rig something that is wired to the battery comes into the cabin where
your other wires pass through from the engine compartment. You could then
plug into that. Make sure you use a fuse on the positive wire at the
battery connection.

--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

== 3 of 9 ==
Date: Sun, Oct 31 2010 1:55 pm
From: D Yuniskis

pebe wrote:
> I own a 2004 Vauxhall Corsa and want to ensure that I don�t get a flat
> battery, again, as a result of short winter trips. So I have purchased a
> float charger.
>
> Is there a simple way of connecting it up each night without lifting the
> bonnet and clipping on to the battery terminals? I had thought of going
> in through the cigarette lighter socket, but the ignition has to be
> switched on before it connects.

I'd opt for one of those bulky battery connectors found
in (APC) UPS's. No, you don't need that sort of current
handling capability (unless you also wanted to use this as
a power *outlet* to connect, for example, an inverter!).
But, the connector is "ample" (in terms of size), keyed
and easy to manhandle -- I suspect you are looking for
something you can easily plug in without having to "fuss
over it".

I suspect this would also fare reasonably well in rain/snow
as they aren't "precision" components, it is not a "pin and
socket" style connection (rather, two blades) that could
fill with water and freeze, etc.

I'll see if I can find a URL of a suitable image...

== 4 of 9 ==
Date: Sun, Oct 31 2010 2:04 pm
From: D Yuniskis

D Yuniskis wrote:
> I suspect this would also fare reasonably well in rain/snow
> as they aren't "precision" components, it is not a "pin and
> socket" style connection (rather, two blades) that could
> fill with water and freeze, etc.
>
> I'll see if I can find a URL of a suitable image...

http://www.atbatt.com/product/22588.asp

(click on the 4th? "alternate view" to see this enlarged)

This is about 1.5" across -- to give you a sense of scale.

I suggest it mainly because I come across a *lot* of
discarded UPS's and these connectors are among my favorite
"pulls" (be sure to get both mating halves if you go this
route!)

Note that the blades (contacts) are easily released from
the connector shell so you can unsolder the existing wire
and make a new connection, if desired. You can also slide
the blades into some *other* shell (there are different
variations of this same connector body theme)

== 5 of 9 ==
Date: Sun, Oct 31 2010 2:03 pm
From: "Wild_Bill"

The reply fom MP is generally the best method to approach the situation. You
should use a suitable gage of wire to exceed the charging capacity and avoid
any sharp metal in routing the wires.

The important part is the fuse near the battery terminal. The fuse capacity
should exceed the charging capacity by about 150-200 %, if you intend to
avoid using the charging connector for any other equipment.
Having a method to cover the interior connector's terminals would be a good
idea, to avoid any accidental contact between them, or contact with any
other electrical potentials (car body metal, for example). I like using
urethane vacuum caps for covering connector ends.. they're the type of soft
caps that are used on fittings to block off a barbed fitting stem.

A stainless steel terminal would be most suitable if connecting directly to
the battery connector, although you can probably find a full-time B+
junction block near the battery to add the terminal to.

--
Cheers,
WB
.............

"Meat Plow" <mhywatt@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:pan.2010.10.31.20.27.12@lmao.lol.lol...
> On Sun, 31 Oct 2010 14:34:55 +0000, pebe wrote:
>
>> I own a 2004 Vauxhall Corsa and want to ensure that I don't get a flat
>> battery, again, as a result of short winter trips. So I have purchased a
>> float charger.
>>
>> Is there a simple way of connecting it up each night without lifting the
>> bonnet and clipping on to the battery terminals? I had thought of going
>> in through the cigarette lighter socket, but the ignition has to be
>> switched on before it connects.
>
>
> On my Harley motorcycle I have a male/female 2 pin Molex plug. Ring
> terminals on the battery. 1.5 amp Schauer floating charge. Battery is
> going on 9 years old and I don't anticipate replacing it soon. You could
> rig something that is wired to the battery comes into the cabin where
> your other wires pass through from the engine compartment. You could then
> plug into that. Make sure you use a fuse on the positive wire at the
> battery connection.
>
>
> --
> Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

== 6 of 9 ==
Date: Sun, Oct 31 2010 2:04 pm
From: Jeffrey Angus

On 10/31/2010 3:55 PM, D Yuniskis wrote:
> I'd opt for one of those bulky battery connectors found
> in (APC) UPS's.
>
> I'll see if I can find a URL of a suitable image...

Something like this then.

Widely available.

<http://www.amazon.com/Power-Pole-Connector-Black-Anderson-Sermos/dp/B000QUZD4W>

Jeff

== 7 of 9 ==
Date: Sun, Oct 31 2010 2:31 pm
From: Meat Plow

On Sun, 31 Oct 2010 17:03:36 -0400, Wild_Bill wrote:

> The reply fom MP is generally the best method to approach the situation.
> You should use a suitable gage of wire to exceed the charging capacity
> and avoid any sharp metal in routing the wires.
>
> The important part is the fuse near the battery terminal. The fuse
> capacity should exceed the charging capacity by about 150-200 %, if you
> intend to avoid using the charging connector for any other equipment.
> Having a method to cover the interior connector's terminals would be a
> good idea, to avoid any accidental contact between them, or contact with
> any other electrical potentials (car body metal, for example). I like
> using urethane vacuum caps for covering connector ends.. they're the
> type of soft caps that are used on fittings to block off a barbed
> fitting stem.
>
> A stainless steel terminal would be most suitable if connecting directly
> to the battery connector, although you can probably find a full-time B+
> junction block near the battery to add the terminal to.
>
> --
> Cheers,
> WB
> .............
>
>
> "Meat Plow" <mhywatt@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:pan.2010.10.31.20.27.12@lmao.lol.lol...
>> On Sun, 31 Oct 2010 14:34:55 +0000, pebe wrote:
>>
>>> I own a 2004 Vauxhall Corsa and want to ensure that I don't get a flat
>>> battery, again, as a result of short winter trips. So I have purchased
>>> a float charger.
>>>
>>> Is there a simple way of connecting it up each night without lifting
>>> the bonnet and clipping on to the battery terminals? I had thought of
>>> going in through the cigarette lighter socket, but the ignition has to
>>> be switched on before it connects.
>>
>>
>> On my Harley motorcycle I have a male/female 2 pin Molex plug. Ring
>> terminals on the battery. 1.5 amp Schauer floating charge. Battery is
>> going on 9 years old and I don't anticipate replacing it soon. You
>> could rig something that is wired to the battery comes into the cabin
>> where your other wires pass through from the engine compartment. You
>> could then plug into that. Make sure you use a fuse on the positive
>> wire at the battery connection.
>>

The Schumacher 1.5 amp Battery Companion comes with the appropriate male/
female Molex connectors. But you'd have to lengthen the battery end wires.
Must of these come with decent connectors designed to protect from shorts
however none come with fuses. A fuse at the battery is a must. Prevents
fires. A 5 amp fuse should do the job although the lower the better. My
Icom 706MKIIG uses about 25 amps on HF and I have some stranded #8
running through the firewall. Positive is fused with a 25 amp fuse at the
battery, the same value as the double fused factory cable. I've seen a
van burn to the ground that was improperly fused and had some high power
audio gear inside I don't want that to happen to me. Grommets through the
firewall are a must also.

--
Live Fast, Die Young and Leave a Pretty Corpse

== 8 of 9 ==
Date: Sun, Oct 31 2010 3:18 pm
From: dplatt@radagast.org (Dave Platt)

In article <pan.2010.10.31.20.27.12@lmao.lol.lol>,
Meat Plow <mhywatt@yahoo.com> wrote:

>> I own a 2004 Vauxhall Corsa and want to ensure that I don't get a flat
>> battery, again, as a result of short winter trips. So I have purchased a
>> float charger.
>>
>> Is there a simple way of connecting it up each night without lifting the
>> bonnet and clipping on to the battery terminals? I had thought of going
>> in through the cigarette lighter socket, but the ignition has to be
>> switched on before it connects.
>
>
>On my Harley motorcycle I have a male/female 2 pin Molex plug. Ring
>terminals on the battery. 1.5 amp Schauer floating charge. Battery is
>going on 9 years old and I don't anticipate replacing it soon. You could
>rig something that is wired to the battery comes into the cabin where
>your other wires pass through from the engine compartment. You could then
>plug into that. Make sure you use a fuse on the positive wire at the
>battery connection.

Rather than using a Molex plug system, I'd recommend using Anderson
PowerPole connectors. They're designed to survive a large number of
connect/disconnect cycles without wearing out.

Most of the amateur-radio emergency groups have moved to using these,
rather than Molex, due to their ruggedness and their ability to create
"universal" connection systems (e.g. any battery or power supply or
device will connect to any other, with proper polarity and with no
"gender changers" being required).

The 15-amp PowerPole connectors and inserts are probably what you'd
want.

I agree, fusing the "hot" lead near the battery is a very good idea.

--
Dave Platt <dplatt@radagast.org> AE6EO
Friends of Jade Warrior home page: http://www.radagast.org/jade-warrior
I do _not_ wish to receive unsolicited commercial email, and I will
boycott any company which has the gall to send me such ads!

== 9 of 9 ==
Date: Sun, Oct 31 2010 3:49 pm
From: "(PeteCresswell)"

Per Dave Platt:
>Rather than using a Molex plug system, I'd recommend using Anderson
>PowerPole connectors. They're designed to survive a large number of
>connect/disconnect cycles without wearing out.

+1
--
PeteCresswell

==============================================================================
TOPIC: cheap wholesale snow shoes UGG boots free shipping paypal payment http:/
/www.jialiuonline.com
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/74e13228263c4de2?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sun, Oct 31 2010 5:50 pm
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2. brand tags .

3. original packaging ,boxes

4. Price :including shipping fee .

5. Shipping time :4-7 days

http://www.jialiuonline.com

At the same time, we also provide UGG snow boots

Contact:

Website: http://www.jialiuonline.com

Tel：86-791-8327716