sci.electronics.repair - 19 new messages in 13 topics - digest

sci.electronics.repair
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Today's topics:

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Goatway Plasma
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/955f9d8529e91ed3?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Sun, Nov 7 2010 10:08 pm
From: "Michael Kennedy"

"D Yuniskis" <not.going.to.be@seen.com> wrote in message
news:iavgch$ngv$1@speranza.aioe.org...
> Hi,
>
> I rescued a GTW-P46M103 many moons ago. It's been hiding in a
> corner of the dining room ever since. But, kitchen cabinets
> will be delivered RSN and that space is earmarked for them!
> So, it is quickly rising to the top of the ToDo list:
> "fix it or trash it".
>
> My understanding is these were plagued with problems. *But*,
> those problems typically were "no picture" or "magic smoke
> leakage", etc.
>
> This set (from what few memories I have of first powering it up)
> *has* a picture. And, looks like every part of the screen *is*
> "illuminable" (gee, is there even such a word?? :> ). I.e., the
> drivers all appear to be functional.
>
> The *problem* is the image is offset from its expected location.
> By a significant amount! IIRC, the center of the image is
> shifted towards the upper left corner of the display such that
> the left side of the intended display image is "off screen".
> (the portion of the image that *is* displayed appears to be
> scaled properly, no distortion, etc.)
>
> I think I was able to find some very limited "service information"
> on the set. Mostly pretty pictures and "replace module X" type
> diagnostics. Of course, none of the troubleshooting questions
> was:
>
> "Is the image shifted off the top left corner of the screen?"
>
> What sorts of things should I try to get a better handle on what
> is likely gone wrong in the set? Or, is it a "lost cause"??
> (my curiosity often motivates me to pursue problems that simply
> don't make economic sense :< )
>
> advTHANKSance,
> --don

Sorry I dont have anything usefull to add, but I do like how you called it a
Goatway plasma tv. haha.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Tektronix PS 5010 GPIB
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/dc7863297017a799?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Mon, Nov 8 2010 3:20 am
From: JW

On Sat, 6 Nov 2010 15:32:46 -0700 (PDT) Imre Fodor <imreofodor@gmail.com>
wrote in Message id:
<f33bbe20-d3f1-43ba-9882-052e1555470f@37g2000prx.googlegroups.com>:

>I got a used PS 5010 Power module,and it came with a GPIB board. I had
>to remove the GPIB board because the TM-6 power frame has no provision
>to take it ( the BPIB bard is protruding of the back of the PS5010,
>and that prevents the insertion into the TM-6).
>
>Now the unit is not powering up from any of the TM-6 slots. I suspect
>that I have to do something because the removal of the GPIB board.
>
>Is anybody have some knowledge on this subject?

Don't have an answer for your question, but I'll bet someone here does:
http://tech.groups.yahoo.com/group/TekScopes/

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Large IDE drives not compatable with old systems
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/739861bba23f7546?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Mon, Nov 8 2010 3:30 am
From: JW

On Sat, 6 Nov 2010 20:40:34 +0000 (UTC) Meat Plow <mhywatt@yahoo.com>
wrote in Message id: <pan.2010.11.06.20.39.15@lmao.lol.lol>:

>On Sat, 06 Nov 2010 13:28:06 -0700, whit3rd wrote:

[...]

>> Have you considered using a solid-state disk? There are IDE adapters
>> that take CF memory cards, it could be a simple matter to replace the
>> old drive with something very quiet indeed. Something that won't every
>> become noisy.
>
>Only problem is I/O speed. I don't have enough experience with SSD other
>than what's in my netbook. But I'm thinking the data throughput may be
>insufficient for a large number of tracks with a lot going on. And they
>are expensive also. Nearest thing i could find was a 40 gig Intel SATA II
>SSD.

I don't think that would be a problem, but not being at all familiar with
audio equipment, so I could be wrong. There's CF out there that supports
600X write speeds and also support UDMA. I have a Transcend 8GB CF that
gets 25MB/s sustained write speeds.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Car OBC
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/e84167d59ce27549?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 2 ==
Date: Mon, Nov 8 2010 10:05 am
From: JeffM

>JeffM wrote:
>>What you need
>>to turn a pulse train into a something resembling DC
>>is an integrator. TV vertical sections use those gizmos.
>
Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
>Thanks, Jeff. Can you clarify what's needed spec wise
>
As stated:
>>You need to put some numbers to this before proceeding.
>>
Got an oscope?

You need an RC time constant that will integrate this a bit.
In a TV, the integrator must combine the closely-spaced stuff
during the vertical sync pulse interval to make one fat pulse.
Your task is similar.

If you make the time constant *too* long,
the intervals between cylinders will be joined up;
**that** is what you need to figure out how to avoid.

Surely you've seen pictures of how a power supply filter
slurs one (sinusoidal) peak into the next.
Similar deal there.

You need to characterize what you have
and/or do some trial-and-error runs.

>- I'm more of an audio sort of person. ;-)
>
RC filters are common in audio as well.
I already mentioned power supply filters
and their similarity to this application.

== 2 of 2 ==
Date: Mon, Nov 8 2010 10:13 am
From: JeffM

If you make the time constant *too* long,
the intervals between cylinders will be joined up;
**that** is what you need to figure out how to avoid.

Surely you've seen pictures of how a power supply filter
slurs one (sinusoidal) peak into the next.
Similar deal there.

You need to characterize what you have
and/or do some trial-and-error runs.
http://google.com/search?q=filter+capacitor+%22+63-percent%22
http://google.com/search?q=filter+capacitor+%22+63.2-percent%22
http://google.com/images?q=filter+capacitor+%22+63.2-percent%22

>- I'm more of an audio sort of person. ;-)
>
RC filters are common in audio as well.
I already mentioned power supply filters
and their similarity to this application.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: LCD conductive tape
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/add3d9217314972f?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 6 ==
Date: Mon, Nov 8 2010 3:24 pm
From: Mark

I'm trying to repair a cheap alarm clock with an LCD display.

(I know this isn't worth my time but at this point I'm more
curious...)

A few segments of the LCD are not working and when I press the
conductive tape that connects the LCD to the board, it starts to
work. OK a bad connection.

But am trying to buy a piece of this conductive tape and I can't find
it anywhere even described on the Internet.

It seems like ordinary scotch adhesive tape but with conductive ink
tracks. It is 1.5mm pitch and has 28 conductors. It is simply stuck
onto the lip of the LCD and the PWB.

It's not zebra strip.
It's not flexible flat cable FFC which is actual wire.
This stuff is actually adhesive tape with conductive (black) ink.

What is this stuff called so I can search for it?

Anybody seen it for sale anywhere?

thanks
Mark

== 2 of 6 ==
Date: Mon, Nov 8 2010 5:36 pm
From: "William Sommerwerck"

Can you remove the tape, and clean it and the board contacts? If so, that
might be all that's needed.

== 3 of 6 ==
Date: Mon, Nov 8 2010 6:44 pm
From: Jamie

Mark wrote:

> I'm trying to repair a cheap alarm clock with an LCD display.
>
> (I know this isn't worth my time but at this point I'm more
> curious...)
>
> A few segments of the LCD are not working and when I press the
> conductive tape that connects the LCD to the board, it starts to
> work. OK a bad connection.
>
> But am trying to buy a piece of this conductive tape and I can't find
> it anywhere even described on the Internet.
>
> It seems like ordinary scotch adhesive tape but with conductive ink
> tracks. It is 1.5mm pitch and has 28 conductors. It is simply stuck
> onto the lip of the LCD and the PWB.
>
> It's not zebra strip.
> It's not flexible flat cable FFC which is actual wire.
> This stuff is actually adhesive tape with conductive (black) ink.
>
> What is this stuff called so I can search for it?
>
> Anybody seen it for sale anywhere?
>
> thanks
> Mark
>
http://www.atotech.com/en/products/electronics-materials/carbon-conductive-ink-paste.html

== 4 of 6 ==
Date: Mon, Nov 8 2010 11:59 pm
From: isw

In article
<f7f777b8-d3a4-46d4-ae7e-b7caf55f6d85@g25g2000yqn.googlegroups.com>,
Mark <makolber@yahoo.com> wrote:

Why not just arrange a piece of fairly stiff foam to press on it just
like your finger does?

Isaac

== 5 of 6 ==
Date: Tues, Nov 9 2010 12:15 am
From: "N_Cook"

Mark <makolber@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:f7f777b8-d3a4-46d4-ae7e-b7caf55f6d85@g25g2000yqn.googlegroups.com...
> I'm trying to repair a cheap alarm clock with an LCD display.
>
> (I know this isn't worth my time but at this point I'm more
> curious...)
>
> A few segments of the LCD are not working and when I press the
> conductive tape that connects the LCD to the board, it starts to
> work. OK a bad connection.
>
> But am trying to buy a piece of this conductive tape and I can't find
> it anywhere even described on the Internet.
>
> It seems like ordinary scotch adhesive tape but with conductive ink
> tracks. It is 1.5mm pitch and has 28 conductors. It is simply stuck
> onto the lip of the LCD and the PWB.
>
> It's not zebra strip.
> It's not flexible flat cable FFC which is actual wire.
> This stuff is actually adhesive tape with conductive (black) ink.
>
> What is this stuff called so I can search for it?
>
> Anybody seen it for sale anywhere?
>
> thanks
> Mark
>

3M anisotropic tape ? do you have a tame bank manager ?

== 6 of 6 ==
Date: Tues, Nov 9 2010 12:28 am
From: "N_Cook"

Just permanentise your fingers with dense foam/rubber/wedges against casing
or against cable ties around pcb

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http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/fcc0400010421d71?hl=en
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==============================================================================
TOPIC: help ID this LCD Tv!
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/e0c09307b1d8fb79?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Mon, Nov 8 2010 5:57 pm
From: mm

On Sun, 7 Nov 2010 16:05:09 +0000 (UTC), Meat Plow <mhywatt@yahoo.com>
wrote:

>On Sat, 06 Nov 2010 20:22:40 -0400, mm wrote:
>
>> On Sat, 6 Nov 2010 18:13:28 +0000 (UTC), Meat Plow <mhywatt@yahoo.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>>>On Sat, 06 Nov 2010 11:01:55 -0700, b wrote:
>>>
>>>> On Nov 6, 2:37 pm, b <reverend_rog...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>>>>> A neighbour brought me this TV to have a look at. No name badge, and
>>>>> the label at the back just has safety warnings. He has lost the PSU
>>>>> so I opened it up. Here are the pics:
>>>>>
>>>>> http://www.mediafire.com/?3wawxq7ymwnqvkhhttp://www.mediafire.com/?
>>>qnnb96eqf8oyfpnhttp://www.mediafire.com/?bo4euo5dbm9ika1http://
>>>www.mediafire.com/?py62n3kngj1we1dhttp://www.mediafire.com/?
>>>x977hv9i3xzy06g
>>>>>
>>>>> the screen/display is a Sharp LQ150X1, seems quite common. Not so
>>>>> sure about the signal pcb and inverter though.Perhaps some kind soul
>>>>> could ID it and let me know what voltage and polarity (if DC) are
>>>>> needed. cheers,
>>>>> B
>>>>
>>>> update, a bit of continuity testing gave me the polatity of the plug,
>>>> so I hit it with 12v and it worked.
>>>> Would still like to know the maker though so I can programme a
>>>> universal remote.
>>>> -B
>>>
>>>
>>>Most universals have a mode where you can click through every code known
>>>to the universal. When you click through them and finally the TV comes
>>>on you hit the jackpot. I had to do this once with a TV that was not
>>>listed in the code book but did follow the codes of another brand.
>>
>> Of course if you buy the old ones, like I do, they may not even have the
>> codes for newer devices.
>>
>> If I bought a brand new one, would it have codes for digital-to-analog
>> set-top boxes?
>
>
>The last multi-function remote I took possession of was the one that came
>with my Cisco 8640 HDVC DVR. It does in fact have codes for AtoD
>converters. I'm 99.9% certain the newer multi-function remotes especially
>those that are not your $5.00 Walmart special but something in the $30
>dollar and up bracket would yield the results you desire.

Thanks. I"ll keep my eyes open. The original remotes still work and I
haven't lost them yet, but it's good to know.

Thanks, Michael, also.

Actually and interestingly, my 80 dollar DISH TV AtoD converter, the
most expensive I came across, hasn't worked well from the start. The
Green power light on the box goes on without my doing anything, but
the box isn't working after all. And I can't turn it "off" with the
remote control, and there are no buttons on the box itself. I can
unplug it, but when I plug it back in, the green light is on, but
after 10 or 15 seconds it goes off. I'm used to this now, but still.

There are no garage door openers around here, or remotes shining in my
window. Only once every month or so, and I guess it's less often now.

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Bosch WFL2260 washer not spinning
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/b7eb6f851fb5603b?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Mon, Nov 8 2010 4:27 pm
From: M.Joshi

We have a Bosch WFL2260 washing machine which has recently stopped
spinning. I presume the brushes are worn and need replacing?

I have removed the motor from the washing machine and inspected both
brushes. There is about 1cm left on each side.

Before I order new brushes, is there a way to verify that the motor is
not faulty with it disconnected?

Thank you.

--
M.Joshi

==============================================================================
TOPIC: Toshiba HD DVD Player HD-D3KU Draw Won't Open
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/689b49caeea46567?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Mon, Nov 8 2010 7:04 pm
From: "D Messing"

Arfa,

Thank you for the suggestions.

I tried both, neither worked out for me.

The DVD doesn't spin up and the laser doesn't move. It isn't like the
power supply is totally dead since the WELCOME appears and the fan runs.

I will try any ideas anyone may have.

Thanks again
Dave
"Arfa Daily" <arfa.daily@ntlworld.com> wrote in message
news:wfgzo.54052$zz4.44460@newsfe04.ams2...
>
>
> "D Messing" <davidjmessing@gmail.com> wrote in message
> news:edf74$4ccceb5c$62133330$20209@ALLTEL.NET...
>> This is a Toshiba HD DVD player
>>
>> After turning on the unit the pilot light changes from red to blue. The
>> screen displays WELCOME.
>>
>> It never progresses beyond that point and the drawer can not be opened.
>>
>>
>> It is like the boot sequence stops. Pushing the Open Drawer Button or
>> other buttons there is a beep that sounds. Otherwise it is locked up.
>>
>> The player has had very light use. Any reset or what can be done???
>>
>> Dave
>>
>
> You could try manually opening the drawer, and moving the laser back from
> it's 'home' position (assuming that it is actually there in the first
> place) and then powering up. I have had odd behaviour like this that is
> corrected by making the system control micro do something else first,
> before launching into the main boot sequence. Another thing you could try,
> is to disengage the unit from mains power, then press and hold the standby
> button, and then, whilst still holding it, reapply mains power. Keep the
> button pressed for at least 10 seconds. This is a very typical reset
> procedure that is used by many manufacturers.
>
> Arfa

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TOPIC: Shop Owner is pressing boobs of Lady tailor in shop
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/a3ad113b1dc17bc9?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Mon, Nov 8 2010 10:24 pm
From: rita

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==============================================================================
TOPIC: HP 2550L prints dirty bands on each page
http://groups.google.com/group/sci.electronics.repair/t/2be9d394aff4c5f6?hl=en
==============================================================================

== 1 of 1 ==
Date: Tues, Nov 9 2010 12:23 am
From: whit3rd

On Nov 7, 9:54 am, Fernando Peral <fpe...@NOSPAMpatagonmail.com>
wrote:
> The printer prints well, but it prints with a dirty band of near 2
> centimeter width all across each page in the left part of it.

A light leak, or a dirty corona wire, can do something like this.
Light leaks usually mean a case part is not closed properly.
The corona wire has a HV connection and is usually reachable (on
some models it's in the printer, on some it's part of the cartridge).
Alcohol on a cotton swab is appropriate.

==============================================================================

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